I have a kaabo mantis 10 lite that the ball bearing are starting to make a crunching noise not sure if it's possible to change the bearings or just get a whole new wheel
Thanks for posting this. I may try the glue as well, my son has the RX200 and on the first ride, on a side walk, the front wheel bearing came dislodged. I had to disassemble the wheel and tap them back into place. i did notice there was no spacer between the bearings on the center of the wheel - I wonder if that's how it came dislodged.
@@Movelectrics I can see at 0:55 it's a "6001 2RSH" I have prepared for the job. That's all you need to know regardless the manufacturer. 6001 bearing.
have gotten unstuck since .. next repair of this kind I'll do will go straight on here the bearing race needs a tremendous amount of knocking before it comes loose ..
Actually, the proper fix would have been too change the wheel altogether, as the hub was improperly manufactured. So the idea here was to get some use of this bad wheel before changing it... It's still working, btw!
Doar rulmentii au fost schimbati? nu si acea piesa neagra pe care se fixeaza rulmentii?merge si in ziua de azi?e ok dac in loc de lipici pun vaselina doar sa intre sau mai bine nu pun nimic?@@CosminRotaru
Actually, I wonder if they are all the same. The old ones should have the code on them. Or you could remove the old ones and take them with you at the store...
Just go on eBay or amazon and buy a whole new scooter back wheel it has the tyre and tube already fitted on it... Brand new wheel is cost £15 and easy to put ob
Hi! As I said in the description there was some play - bearings were able to move in the wheel (as shown in the video). That's a huge deal especially with the breaking system they have. It is impossible to align the breaking pads since the wheel would move... Anyway, the problem is in the bad tolerance in the wheel itself. New bearings had the same play. That's why I glued them.
@@CosminRotaru oh now i got it! thanks. really interesting that its moving to the sides. i have pro one and im using everyday. i hope mine will not gonna be same. thanks for reply!
@@JorgeC33 Hi! "Moment Repair Epoxy" - mini universal "5 minutes". It says on the package that it is ideal for wood, metal, stone, ceramics and plastics... I got it because it says "metal" on it. And it's fast. And bi-component (somehow I have the impresion that bi-component glues are stronger - but I don't know if that is true). Anyway, anything that glues metal... And make sure the parts are de-greased (but without getting de-grease agent inside the bearing itself...). I used spirit :)
Bearings had play in the wheel due to poor tolerances... I decided to glue the bearings in place. Since I had to take apart the whole thing and the bearings are cheap I decided to put new ones. Otherwise the old ones were just fine. I don't even think they needed re-greasing. I would not recommend re-greasing old sealed bearings anyway (unless they are expensive / hard to find).
Hi! I can see at 0:55 it's a "6001 2RSH" I have prepared for the job. That's all you need to know regardless the manufacturer: 6001 bearing. But you might want to take out the old bearings first and verify. I don't know if all have the same bearings... But if you look at the old bearings they should have the model code on them.
Just from a local store specialized in bearings and gaskets... Is not special about the bearings. "standard" bearings. Just make sure you choose a good known manufacturer. I only knew about SKF and I've heard about them since I was a child. Go with the best you know as bearings are cheap anyway.
Asi already explained, the wheel hub was out off specs from the factory. The bearing did not perfectly fit inside - there was some play. The safety pin does not help with that. The bearing itself was ok (but we did put a new one inside). Because of that play it was impossible to correctly adjust the brake. The perfect fix for this would have been to replace the wheel. But before replacing the wheel i choose to glue the bearing (which, btw, did fix the issue and it still works fine). There is no option to replace the bearing on this one indeed. And there would never be a time to replace the bearing ever. When that fails a new wheel will be needed. So this was a temporary solution that still works to this day. Caps lock does nothing to your argument...
just perfect, what I needed, thank you so much
I have a kaabo mantis 10 lite that the ball bearing are starting to make a crunching noise not sure if it's possible to change the bearings or just get a whole new wheel
Thanks for posting this. I may try the glue as well, my son has the RX200 and on the first ride, on a side walk, the front wheel bearing came dislodged. I had to disassemble the wheel and tap them back into place. i did notice there was no spacer between the bearings on the center of the wheel - I wonder if that's how it came dislodged.
Thanks man! There is so many on AliExpress. You don’t know the diameter of them do you?
@@Movelectrics I can see at 0:55 it's a "6001 2RSH" I have prepared for the job. That's all you need to know regardless the manufacturer. 6001 bearing.
Cosmin Rotaru cheers man!!
Skateboard bearings would work?
hey salut ✌️
did you by any chance ever need to swap out the steering stem bearing on any of these ..? am super stuck removing the old one atm ☹️
Hi! Sorry, no. This is not even mine. I just fixed it for a friend.
have gotten unstuck since .. next repair of this kind I'll do will go straight on here
the bearing race needs a tremendous amount of knocking before it comes loose ..
So you glued the bearings into the wheel, what happens when you ever want to change the bearings again 🤷🏻♂️🤣
It will be a bad day for science 😂
Actually, the proper fix would have been too change the wheel altogether, as the hub was improperly manufactured. So the idea here was to get some use of this bad wheel before changing it... It's still working, btw!
Salut,de unde le-ai cumparat?ce sa slabit practic sau care e treaba?cat tine acel lipici?nu inteleg ce se poate strica de la acel mecanism?
Cred că roata nu a fost fabricata in toleranțe.
Doar rulmentii au fost schimbati? nu si acea piesa neagra pe care se fixeaza rulmentii?merge si in ziua de azi?e ok dac in loc de lipici pun vaselina doar sa intre sau mai bine nu pun nimic?@@CosminRotaru
Thanks, where did you get the bearings from ?
I cant find the size anywhere.
It's a local store here, specialized in bearings and gaskets... But the size is standard! You should find them easily...
@@CosminRotaru are 2 pieces of 6001 2rh type? Thanks
Yes.
Actually, I wonder if they are all the same. The old ones should have the code on them. Or you could remove the old ones and take them with you at the store...
Just go on eBay or amazon and buy a whole new scooter back wheel it has the tyre and tube already fitted on it...
Brand new wheel is cost £15 and easy to put ob
may i ask why you used glue?
Hi! As I said in the description there was some play - bearings were able to move in the wheel (as shown in the video). That's a huge deal especially with the breaking system they have. It is impossible to align the breaking pads since the wheel would move... Anyway, the problem is in the bad tolerance in the wheel itself. New bearings had the same play. That's why I glued them.
@@CosminRotaru oh now i got it! thanks. really interesting that its moving to the sides. i have pro one and im using everyday. i hope mine will not gonna be same. thanks for reply!
@@ALINUED this one came like that new. I think it was a problem in the manufacturing. Other colleagues have the same model with no problem.
@@CosminRotaru What kind of glue did you use?
@@JorgeC33 Hi! "Moment Repair Epoxy" - mini universal "5 minutes". It says on the package that it is ideal for wood, metal, stone, ceramics and plastics... I got it because it says "metal" on it. And it's fast. And bi-component (somehow I have the impresion that bi-component glues are stronger - but I don't know if that is true). Anyway, anything that glues metal... And make sure the parts are de-greased (but without getting de-grease agent inside the bearing itself...). I used spirit :)
Where can I buy the rear axle alone for the m365. And the bearings
Hi. Sorry, I don't know...
so shims dont work? Glue is the WORST thing. You can't get them out
You can get special bearings loctite glue.
why not just oil the old ones? wouldnt it be as good as new
Bearings had play in the wheel due to poor tolerances... I decided to glue the bearings in place. Since I had to take apart the whole thing and the bearings are cheap I decided to put new ones. Otherwise the old ones were just fine. I don't even think they needed re-greasing. I would not recommend re-greasing old sealed bearings anyway (unless they are expensive / hard to find).
Do you know what number or code are the bearings I need ones
Hi! I can see at 0:55 it's a "6001 2RSH" I have prepared for the job. That's all you need to know regardless the manufacturer: 6001 bearing. But you might want to take out the old bearings first and verify. I don't know if all have the same bearings... But if you look at the old bearings they should have the model code on them.
I deal with the same problem, but i get a bearing glue.
Where did you get the bearings from?
Just from a local store specialized in bearings and gaskets... Is not special about the bearings. "standard" bearings. Just make sure you choose a good known manufacturer. I only knew about SKF and I've heard about them since I was a child. Go with the best you know as bearings are cheap anyway.
maybe it's possible to find slightly oversize outer diameter bearing +1mm OD and press fit them so they don't slide
bearings are have standard with small +/- tolerance, not + or - 1mm
This will not hold shit... You should try a small peace of leather instead.
it's been a year or so... Working fine.
NO! BIG NO!!
NEVER GLUE THE BEARINGS TO THE RIM!
1- THERE'S SAFETY PIN TO HOLD THEM SO NO NEED GLUE
2- YOU CANNOT REPLACE WHEN YOU NEEDED.
Asi already explained, the wheel hub was out off specs from the factory. The bearing did not perfectly fit inside - there was some play. The safety pin does not help with that. The bearing itself was ok (but we did put a new one inside). Because of that play it was impossible to correctly adjust the brake. The perfect fix for this would have been to replace the wheel. But before replacing the wheel i choose to glue the bearing (which, btw, did fix the issue and it still works fine). There is no option to replace the bearing on this one indeed. And there would never be a time to replace the bearing ever. When that fails a new wheel will be needed. So this was a temporary solution that still works to this day.
Caps lock does nothing to your argument...
@@CosminRotaru as haycarr already said; spare rims aren't so expensive to do this. i hope you comforted by my small caps.