Chevy Cruze Heated Thermostat Testing and Repair
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
- Does your Chevy Cruze, Sonic, or Aveo have a P0597 or P0598 heated thermostat code? In this video we will walk you through how to test and how to fix this common issue found on GM Ecotech 1.8 and 1.4 engines, including quick easy tests to identify the fault and also step by step instructions on thermostat replacement.
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0:00 Intro
0:34 Testing Specs
1:08 Ohm Testing Thermostat
2:20 Checking Computer Control
4:30 Testing New Thermostat
4:42 Removing Thermostat
7:00 Clean Sealing Surface
7:39 Installing New Thermostat
9:21 Filling Coolant
10:24 Conclusion 
Авто/Мото
My Mentor Go Tech Ryan Wilsing
Thanks for sharing what you know with us Take care and have a great evening
with all your family around you
INTELLECTUAL Go Tech Ryan Wilsing
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 Good Evening ⏰️ 21.43pm
Hey Nick,
Take care and thanks for checking out the new video!
~Ryan
Great Info Thanks for the Update
Hey James,
You're welcome! Thanks for checking out the video!
~Ryan
Great job.
Thanks for watching!
~Ryan
6:48 I noticed you did not remove the wiring harness mounting bracket next to the thermostat. Most videos doing this same exact job remove it as part of the disassembly. Makes it easier to remove the thermostat. BUT HEY! Whatever gets the job done. The least amount of parts you have to pull the better.
I plugged the hose. Still had a pan underneath to catch the coolant from the overflow tank/thermostat side. Was not mutch. Be careful of where that coolant lands. Clean it off your engine/components ASAP. Coolant can help deteriorate components in the long term after coming into contact with hoses, belts, electrical. Good engine coolant agent, but not good for the outside of your engine, wiring etc... Great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us!
The noise absorbent foam pads on that metal air duct are installed backwards. 😂
thank you sir....done
sorry 71 inch pounds. Is this like 6 foot pounds. I only know the latter. Thanks.
Is it possible that the problem on these could be just the sensor? I had a new one put on a year ago and it was $150 for the part, but the sensor is like $15
I don’t have a check engine light but I notice when I turn my heater on my coolant needs to be constantly refilled after I reach my destination.
My fan is always on and there was engine ligth on is it the thermostat?
Wow, I’ve watched about 10 videos trying to troubleshoot the overheating on these engines and you are the only person who even brings up this electrical control of the thermostat let alone shows the proper procedures/tools/specs! Bravo! Thanks for helping us all out.
dealers would just replace the engine computer + the 50¢ sensor
🙂
Hah, try owning Chevvy Cruze, this is (or should be) the first thing we do!@@glasser2819
Dear sir i changed my thermostat butt code come back and warning engine hot
Citroen c4 grand picasso
Do you have correct part number for this thermostat? 2011 chevy cruze 1.8L
Thank you Ryan. Just installed aftermarket complete thermostat housing and sure enough sensor for thermostat had zero ohms. Was getting code P0597 after install.
Hey William,
Yeah, I have also ran into that problem. It’s sad to see bad parts right out of the box!
~Ryan
what test leads and "pigtails" are you using to connect to all the different connector pins?
Hey Mike,
This is a great lead set we got from AESwave.com
~Ryan
Really great video! I recently got the P0597 code that comes and goes. I measured the resistance across the two leads of the thermostat. It measured 15.9 Ohms. You mentioned the thermostat you replaced should be 13-15 Ohms. Does that spec apply to a 2015 Chevy Sonic LT too?
Yes it should , I believe your thermostat is probably close to failing or failing intermittently. I ‘m guessing it’s time for a replacement.
~Ryan
@@GoTechTraining Thanks for confirming! Your video makes it easy for just about any DIYer! 🙂Thanks!
Just sharing my experience of replacing the thermostat on my Chevy Sonic LT: I found it so hard to see where the two bottom bolts of the thermostat were. I did find them eventually (*) and before removing anything I tested to make sure I could access all the bolts to make sure I could remove everything with the limited toolset I have. I had to purchase a 3-inch extension for my socket but I'd recommend a 4-inch extension. I tried saving as much of the coolant as possible as well by using a bungee cord to keep the end of the fat radiator inlet hose pointing upward and out of the way. Removing the clamp around the hose wasn't easy at all for me. Whoever installed the clamp oriented it so the clips was facing downward--there was so little room to work in, and my hose clamp pliers with a flexible cable broke so I had to resort to regular hose clamp pliers like yours. * Lastly, now I know, but because I couldn't see the bottom two bolts of the thermostat, I was feeling them out, and thinking I found the right one, I accidentally removed one of the two bolts of the engine oil cooler outlet pipe! LOL. About 700 mL of coolant leaked out! Good thing I kept a large container to collect any spills! Anyways, it's all done now. 🙂
Why are u filling the system with green coolant from the 80s all modern gm cars use dexcool that's orange.
Hey John,
Yes I agree, this was a global (all makes) coolant that was supplied by the vehicle owner.
~Ryan
Turbo cars have the thermostat in the opposite side of the motor. The rad hose by the serp belt
Hey John,
Yeah those are a little harder to replace but seem to fail just as often.
Do you work on a lot of GM's?
~Ryan
I just replaced a thermostat in a ‘13 1.4 turbo, and now I’m getting the p0597 code again. I also just replaced the downstream o2 sensor, and it’s throwing an evap code. I’m not sure if these are all interrelated or not, but they are annoying.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 keep it up brother
Thanks ✌️
~Ryan
Nice going on the ohms..thumbs up Ryan 👍😎 Good to know~ Thanks
Thanks for watching!!
~Mike
👍
Thanks for watching!
Nice work, Ryan! Why automakers feel the need to make EVERYTHING electronic and failure prone these days I'll never understand, but, it's job security for current and future techs. 👍
True, as long they keep failing we will always have something to fix!
Thanks for watching!
~Ryan
Clogged
Can a radiator coolant sensor can can also case that code? Can parcial clog radiator can cause that code?
Hello Otilio,
This code is specifically tied to an electrical problem. The computer monitors the current draw of the heater in the thermostat and if its out of spec sets this code. A clogged radiator may set a code but it would be related to thermostat performance or a overheating code.
Good question! Thanks for reaching out!
~Ryan
@@GoTechTraining thanks for answering my question
Anytime! Thanks for watching!
~Ryan
Thanks for the video 👍
Thanks for watching!
~Mike
thanks! i have one in the shop now!
Awesome! it's a common issue, but not too bad to repair!
Thanks for supporting the channel!
~Ryan
Does the air lift require you to run the car with the cap off until the vehicle reaches normal operating temp?
Hey Thomas,
Good question! When I first bought one about 5 years ago, I was not too sure about it and didn't trust it completely so I still ran it every time. After a while and a lot of testing I realized I never had to add coolant and had no issues. So now I just fill it and call it day. I have only had one issue in 5 years, a old gen Subaru with the low mounted t-stat. It was just a air bubble and was fixed relatively quick.
Thanks for reaching out!
~Ryan
nice video ryan
Thanks for watching!
Great video, brother!
Hey Dave,
Appreciate it! Thanks for tuning in!
~Ryan
Good one Ryan. Simple Diagnose confirmed the problem. Thank you for the video.
Hey Mike,
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
Simple diagnosis on a common problem!
~Ryan
It would be helpful if you listed which special tools and other things that were used in the comment section.
Hey William,
Great Idea! I'll add them now!
~Ryan
Nice video and explanation, I have installed so many of these its not funny. Never had an ECU problem . The cheap after market ones last around 3 years and the GM OE about the same. However the GM ones cost three or four times the cost, and to be honest I can see no difference between them ! Guess in China they just put them in a differently labeled box ...💤
Hello,
Yeah it seems to be a common problem, even on the 1.4l turbo versions.
Thanks for reaching out!
~Ryan
@@GoTechTraining 1.4 turbos are burning out number 1 piston. Causes a misfire on tickover. The ring lands break up as the piston skirts are so tiny and dont support the ring lands. Big strip down job. All parts available except the head gasket which is on factory back order. I have been told the piston is cast instead of forged and has insufficient metal under the rings. From the ones I have seen this is the case. Also why only number one piston ?
Wow, that's a major issue. I have seen a few TSBs calling out a issue like that but luckily I haven't had to deal with one yet.
@@mazdaman1286No1 piston only... double check if thee engine have managed "oil pump pressure" - If so equipped disable the low pressure stage by unplugging the solenoid usually beside crank pulley near where oil pump is located.
This "managed oil pressure" design originates from Bosch ECU designs.... it overheats/kills engines by lack of piston squirting pressure below 2500Rpm.
I know for fact GM uses it because ppl complain seeing low engine pressure gauge.
Mercedes uses it on L4, V6, V8 engines with poor reliability.
Simply unplug stupid pump "control solenoid" to disable ridiculous low pressure commands... Sanity's restaured!
👍
Nice video and great info. What is the safety zone for testing the PCM, 2-3 amps or 5 amps max???
Hello,
With this circuit normally being around 13-15 ohms. Using Ohms law, it shouldn't be tested with anything that would draw more than one amp. There isn't any rule of thumb because every circuit is different. Most cases you will want to use a high impedance multimeter. I only use a test light to when trying to simulate a load and know I'm not exceeding the circuit limits. For instance a sensor may draw 50mA and a 2 wire coil may draw 4 amps.
I hope this helps!
Ryan
Good video! What was the resistance of the test light? Could the resistance in a test light be low enough to endanger a functioning driver?
Hey Mark, thanks for watching! In this case our incandescent test light draws about 250mA. This heater can pull around 1 amp based upon it's resistance spec of this heater. Just like an O2 sensor heater, or a coil, or an injector. The driver is more robust than a sensor signal driver because it has to carry the load of the heater circuit.
~Mike
@@GoTechTraining True! What test light does everyone else have? Meaning are there test lights which could endanger the driver? Thanks for the response.
Good question! We actually tested the amperage draw of three different test lights. One of them being my old test light with a 194 size bulb in it, and all measured under 1 amp. So it would be safe to say any standard store bought test light should be ok. Not saying a homemade test light could be used ,and maybe cause damage. For example, I do use a homemade H7 bulb tester to circuits that draws around 2.2 amps. But good thing is, I believe this newer controller has built in protection, due to its ability to set circuit codes. But I should have mentioned the risk. Better safe than sorry!
Thanks for reaching out!
~Ryan
@@GoTechTraining Perfect! Thank you! 👍This is a very good video Ryan. You have a very good presence and it feels like you are having fun! Looking forward to more!