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DIY Ferrari Brakes Repair Saved £6000 With A Simple Hack
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- Опубликовано: 25 июн 2022
- Ferrari won't sell the cheap parts to fix a common brake problem on several of their high end models so I fixed it with some simple hacks and saved an absolute fortune doing it myself.
/ ratarossa
/ ratarossa
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Email: scott@ratarossa.com
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#ratarossa #restoration #ferrari
Great work freeing the pistons up. One piece of feedback is never use chrome sockets like this - they can and do shatter under extreme circumstances, and with so much force behind them they can make some vicious shrapnel. Always use an impact socket instead, as they deform instead of shattering.
or a small piece of concrete, much better under compression
This video was vintage Ratarossa - showing again that us mere mortals can play and win against the spectre of having to use mega- expensive Ferrari specialists and parts to fix our beloved cars. Loved the mini-tutorial on how to bend brake pipes - would have taken ages to learn how to do that! Also loved the determination to repair the calipers not junk them and the ingenuity of the fixes using easily available tools - genius! Although I love the serial vids on all the projects, I love these ‘fix it yourself using these bits’ instalments the best. Keep ‘em coming!
Thanks buddy
This is so interesting to watch. I would never have the patience and the hand skills to pull all this off. I really admire not only your money saving but also component saving approach, you fix every part you can, you don’t throw things out unless they are completely shot.
Thanks Ross, yes I cant stand the fact those calipers would normally be binned. I will totally reuse them
@@Ratarossa apparently you can use Alum (available at grocery store) dissolved in water to dissolve the steel bolt stuck in the aluminum part. Hotter you get it faster it dissolves.
@Ratarossa 😊
@Ratarossa 😊😊
@Ratarossa 😊😊😊😊😊
I've got a friend who's been a Ferrari Tech for many years now. He says the art of the technician is dying out sadly. They're replacing engines like it's going out of style instead of diagnosing and repair. I always enjoy your vids👍
Thanks buddy. Yes its a throw away society and such a shame. i love repairing the things that would normally get put in the bin
I had rusted brake pipes on my merc a few years ago and merc quoted me €700 to replace it. I bought a flair kit, some connectors and a roll of pipe at a cost of about €100 in total and did the repair myself. It was one of the easiest and most satisfying repairs I’ve ever done. Gotta love the DIY solutions. The flair kit has been passed around my mates since and saved them a fortune too.
Good man!
Well done 👏 it is as you say, rewarding 👍
All came more than right in the end! One of the most satisfying vids ever - the deadline added a touch of jeopardy, and the brake fabrication was a good to learn from. We had genuine drama, a massive saving, and a lesson in what can be done on the drive: vintage Ratarossa! Top notch, mate.
Thank you my friend
I work on boats and you can imagine what sea water can do to seize bolts. I have used a tool called an easy out which involves drilling the seized bolt roughly in the centre. The easy out goes in the hole on a left hand thread which it cuts in the broken bolt. This is tightened and the bolt which is weaker due to the hole drilled in it hopefully comes away as you turn the easy out in. Good luck!
In my experience easy outs on very seized bolts like this one are crap. Usually ends up with the easy out shearing in the hole and doubling the problem. I'd drill the sheared bolt out in ever increasing drill sizes until close to the edge and carefully pick the broken bits out. Helicoil it after and jobs a good 'un! Any good engineering shop could sort it to be fair.
@@jamiemiller7752 yes
Perseverance is a great trait! Great work & fascinating to see how it all went together. Glad it worked out for you just in time! Car must feel far more lively!
Looking forward to BBi again, missed it!
Yes! Thank you!
Wheel bearing sounds knackered in the new one, old one looks/sounds much better.
Heat from the sticking caliper could’ve cooked your bearing sooner
Nobody can beat this guy , number 1 DIYer in the world.
Thank you for showing a REAL repair, warts and all, no fluff.
This is real automotive engineering, this is what I learned as a mechanic in the early 1980's, as we moved into the 1990's we became more "parts fitters" than actually repairing things. So many items which could be repaired were just thrown away.....I recently replaced the seals in my Ferrari 348 clutch slave cylinder 70 euros for the parts, whereas most people just replace the cylinder with an aftermarket part for about 700 euros......Why do that when you can fix it!
Cheers Kev good to hear you do the same
Best car based video I’ve seen in a long time. Love the work you do on these cars. Show us more 👏
Thanks buddy
Great to see a fellow enthusiast repair his Ferrari rather than the usual tech in a dream workshop with all the tools and equiptment. We have 2 Ferraris, - Dino 308GT4 and a 456 and do all repairs and maintenance ourselves within our double garage so no hoist etc. It can be done quite easily but you do need some mechanical aptitude I guess and a can do attitude. Reality is we couldn`t afford to own these cars if we couldn`t do this and would miss out on a lot of the fun of owning them. Love the videos.
Love the 308GT 4
They`re a nicer driver than the 308 GTB plus although maybe the GTB has a slight looks advantage the GT4 by itself is a good looking car. I`m over 6 feet tall and also far more comforable than cramped GTB.@@PaulBCISSP
Driveway mechanics with flip fops, top quality Scott.
nothing but the best buddy
Man, watching Scott fix its own Raris makes me happy, as this is the way Ferraris owners should be driving and repairing their cars. A car from a garagista to another. ❤
The more I watch these videos, the more confident I’m getting to pull the trigger on my first Ferrari 360 😊
they are great cars
@@Ratarossa need to find the right car now, like yourself I want a black Modena, and gated manual preferably.
Brilliant video. Loved the bit at the end when you said "please car be good to me"
Anyone who has worked on their car can relate to those moments 😂😂
Crafting a brake pipe that looks as though it was there from factory is very satisfying, the broken bolt would come out with a nut welded on with a mig welder possibly, great video 👍🏻👍🏻
Yes I was really happy with the result of the brake pipe, it was also the first time ive ever done that.
I’m a big user of copper slip on threads, particularly in suspension parts, makes life a whole lot easier when it comes to disassembly next time. All those broken parts are far less likely to happen when using it!
Is "copper slip" the same as or similar to "anti-seize"?
@@mitsuturbo yes cooper slip is the name us oldies use but it's the same stuff
@@steveyates1098 the newer stuff on the market is garbage. I found some proper old copper slip at an auto jumble it’s just as good as I remember.
@@mark4lev Ceramic grease is the thing to move to
@@philtowle4683 never tried it. A lot of people think copper grease is useless because the modern stuff is garbage, same as a lot of cheapened, made to a price formulations.
Great series of videos. Just did my own DIY brakes, calipers on a 987 Boxster. Ran into the same seized caliper bolt which broke. Took over 8 hours total to drill out, retap etc. Made the awful mistake of trying to use a bolt extractor to remove the bolt. I should have drilled it out to begin with, but ended up with a broken bolt extractor. Drilled around it and eventually got it done. Good experience but not the most fun. But glad it’s done and really learned a lot (had never done brakes before).
Never use them extractors, nightmare 😫
Any bolts like that that feel very tight always try and put some heat on the part the bolt is going in to, in your case the upright. You can also do the same thing with the gland nuts on the brake pipes, it works a treat.
Learned a few tricks today, thanks to you!! Great video ! From Montreal,Canada where we deal with rusted/seized parts due to winters and salt on the roads....
Glad to help
Nicely done. I think I'd add some anti-seize to the threads on those bolts so they will come out later. I've seen that before with dissimilar materials seizing together.
Great idea
I had Brembos on a Porsche 944 Turbo S. Same problem with the caliper bolts. Antiseize solved the problem totally.
Its called galvanic corrosion, and its a real pain in the arse to deal with, I've been there and its no fun, especially with 30mm + bolts.
I used to be a machine setter at a giant factory making brake pipes and they are called flairs not flanges.not being pedantic just thought it might help when talking about expensive car parts .very interesting work great to see the grease fix !
Great point!
Flares 😁 you can buy Brembo parts from Zeckhausen in the USA. they used to sell an own brand range of calipers that were identical to Brembo, but it was a few years when I bought stuff from them. I used to sell rebuilt calipers on an exchange basis and found them very easy to do.
Great break job...just changed the calipers on my car too....makes a hell of a difference! Keep up the great work!
I was waiting for one of those (I assume) non-impact sockets to shatter under the pressure of the pistons and to send shrapnel flying!
Don’t bother trying to drill out the broken bolt yourself, use some of the money you saved and take it to a machine shop (ideally one that offers EDM) who can get it, and the wheel bearing, out without damaging the hub. Get them to measure up the bearing size too so you can get a generic but good quality bearing instead of paying Ferrari prices!
Yes, EDM/Spark Erosion will do the job. Years ago I had a couple of broken studs removed from a cast iron manifold. One also had a broken stud remover in it. Easy when you have the right kit.
First call would have been to my EDM tech, $150 and 1 day turnaround……time for you to make a new friend….not to mention it’s a super cool process.
Drilling the bolt out by increasing the size of the drill is a good idea but you have to be really careful to keep the drill square and on centre. Ideally you would want to find a local machine shop so they can bolt it onto a milling machine or similar. Another option is a bit more specialised and that’s with a spark eroding machine although this is more time consuming and will cost more money
Thanks for the info
Looked like there would be plenty of space for a timesert insert, the only tricky part is following the above and keeping the drill straight. At minimum you need a pillar drill and drilling vice, better as he says with milling machine and clamped down.
I have snapped off bolts spark eroded out quite often , not that expensive
@@MrAmorti nonsense. It’s easy to drill out by hand.
Great work Scott, only wish I had been home when you came past my house on your test drive, I'll give you a wave if you come past again
Cheers buddy
Just a quick bit of advise when putting components back together all threads need to have a dab of anti seize grease especially
when steel bolts are going into alloy as the two metals start to oxidise together in a very short time the reason you had that
calliper bolt snap it more than likely free up if a large nut like a 10mm with a 17mm nut is mig welded through the center of the nut
and built up to form it into a bolt, the heat generated should break the porosity between the steel and alloy use a six point socket
on the nut to prevent rounding off the Nut, and take it slowly to prevent breaking the weld, There should be someone down at your
friends garage where you have your BBi that can handle that for you easily. Keep up the good work and i'm especially interested on
how you get on with the BBi as I used to work on a few of them in the past.
I’m new to the channel but appreciate the samcrac-style approach! It’s exciting to see as a viewer the exact methods you use to get to get the parts you need to do what you need to do. How did you end up getting the caliper pistons? And what would you end up doing if you needed to swap pads and rotors out?
If you don’t mind, I couldn’t help but notice the steering wheel is a bit worse for wear. A light mix of APC and water, or a degreaser, paired with a brush should be a decent way to clean it up and should be basically free to you. I get the ratty look is part of what makes it unique but i don’t think a quick once over with a brush and cloth would do any harm!
A tip on getting out a bolt that is rusted in, Try hitting the head of the bolt a couple of times and also try to tighten the bolt a little. Tightening the bolt just a little will sometimes beak the threads free of the rust and then will come out with a little luck. Also heating helps if you do the other stuff I said to do. I've been wrenching on stuff for over 50 years.
Hill Engineering sell the calliper pistons and they work well (I changed all my pistons on my own 430). the other thing you should do is blow out the brake lines before you put in the flares, as the deburring process can leave tiny bits of swarf inside the pipes .That stuck bolt ??? Spark erosion is the best option and there must be loads of local shops near you that can do that job. Dont try drilling it out as by the time you have drilled a big hole to put a stud extractor into the bolt will be weak and probably split ........ and this can split the calliper.
Another RUclipsr was recently making brake lines and got a lot of flack in the comments for doing it wrong, but your approach seems very good: cutting the pipe with a proper tool so as not to get metal dust in the lines, and having strong-looking end flanges able withstand the fluid pressure.
The bold is bottomed, the hole is not drilled deep enough, so you need to get the pressure of the bottom. This is a common tooling fault during manufacturing. The best solution, drilling a sideways hole where the tip of the bold would end up. Changes of structural damage are very high.
Somebody in all these comments probably already mentioned if can set up on a mill could drill out and retap for you reasonably straightforward if have the a local machine shop with the required equipment is really good to show how owners on smaller budgets can run and repair these Ferraris.
Another nice tutorial Scott and you know exactly what kinda tools you need to DIY your own break lines, better to make it bang on the first time, it's a litteraly a life saver doing it right the first time!
thanks buddy
Iff you look back at your first video when you took the caliper off you pushed it to the back that's why it snapped the pipe just something to watch out for and a lesson learned but the new pipe looks spot on and great to see your not scared to work on your own car even iff it is a ferrari
I don't know what to do I clicked on it but then but think I should off replied straight away because now it's not there to reply
I'm a mechanic, if the caliper is aluminium and the nut is steel, fill the steel bit by welding by welding into it, when the welding material is above the top of the caliper, weld bolt onto the filling ,the heat from the welding would also make the broken off bit easy to remove.
Congratulations! Its not an easy job, hats off to all the do it your selfers!
Scott you will be named the DIY King haha.
Great work mate
Spark erode the old bolt out and then retap. Stud extractors might work but may also break as well
Good advice. This is the way to go.
Some serious wedge saved there. Neat trick with the Grease, never seen that before.
Best way to get the sheared bolt would be to weld a nut on then impact driver. The heat an the impact should do the job!!
Brake test approaching busy roundabout... there's confidence!
Used that same flange tool for the first time recently too - superb bit of kit and like you, saved m’ass and did a great job - thanks for the vid 👍
Cool, thanks
Only one comment concerning the allen wrenches, I would suggest getting the socket Allen setup where you use your ratchet, much easier than the 90 degree Allen wrench... But Good job, I could tell you about the fun on doing the same on my C5 allroad conversion to BBK Brembos.. Cheers..
Good tip!
That new hub bearing sounds worse that the old one - like a bearing on its last legs. Old one would probably spin for a fair while with a wheel on it to give some momentum.
As to Brembo brakes. For motorcycles they won’t sell the seals. Story goes that in the 80s someone rebuilt their calipers and made a mess of the job and crashed. Then sued Brembo for selling them the bits to make a mess with and Brembo lost in court. So they stopped selling seals.
That brake pipe straightener looks useful.
remove the bearing ... take it to a bearing store.. have them match one up for you,, save a few 100's for you
good point, just as a reminder: if a bearing spins more freely, usually it means the lubricant is no longer effective and tolerances between the bearing race and spheres are a little loose. on the other hand, if you feel any grind, bumps or noise while rotating, the bearing is a goner....
Get this on motorcycles all the time. If ever I get a stuck bolt where it's steel in to ally I stop work immediately and get the heat on it. Brake calipers and brake discs are a favourite for seizing in place, they either round off or snap and then it's a major headache. The ally expands more with heat than the steel and it usually does the trick.
Try spark erosion for removing the broken stud should be somewhere local to you
Interesting content. Keep up the good work on your channel. Regards, WR4K.
Thank you very much!
we use spark erosion to remove snapped bolts or snapped taps when drilling is not a option
"Hey guys, ChrisFi.. i mean.. Ratarossa here."
Amazing work there. Crazy how much it is possible to save by simple common handtools and a bit of DIY mentaliy.
Excellent Job! Enjoy watching!
The best way to deal with the broken bolt on your spindle is to step drill it out starting with a smaller diamiter bit and progressively increasing the bit size. At the mid piont switch to a reverse direction bit. Sometimes the vibration of the drilling is enough to dislodge the remains. Applying some heat to the spindle body near the drill location helps as well but be careful not to overheat the area. Just remember to have patience and take your time as well as using generous amount of drilling oil. Just the thoughts of an Alberta Millwright that might help. Cheers from Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
I am really impressed and enjoyed all you have done in your projects. 👍🏼
Thank you! Cheers!
Could you find somewhere that could spark erode that snapped bolt?
It sucks when you end up having more issues to deal with than you expected but your patience is inspiring!
cheers
That was proper work...well done sir...loved the caliper refurb...
Any machine shop should be able to get that broken bolt out and the threads repaired. The specialist automotive machine shops would be the place to start.
Induction heater around the broken bolt and hit with hammer around it and then hit it in dead center with a syl or something pointy and then use a "drill that drills the wrongway" ?
Spark erosion is the best method to remove that bolt remnant. Welding will work but might affect the body too much.
local machine shop could get the bolt out and chase the threads shouldnt even cost to much,ir if you have a steady hand punch then drill thru the center of the bolt and try an easy out
Great to see such a good result and very interesting. Can’t wait to see the upcoming projects!
Thank you!
Amazing job! Its always best to do it yourself and very few (especially Ferrari owners) go to the extent you did and not just throw everything away. If your trying to find someone to take that broken bolt out any machine shop should have no problem or any mechanic shop
Very true!
You could get the bolt out by taking it to an EDM (electronic discharge machine) machinist they will be able to remove it, helicoil the thread as required.
Great video and some practicle engineering! Thank you :)
Nice one Scott, solid effort. Can you put the links to the brake line tools in the description? Be good to have those in the toolkit.
If the caliper has exposed alloy where the seals fit make sure the groove is clean. The alloy can be porous and absorb salt in the winter which the crystalises behind the seal locking the piston. Used to have to rebuild Nissin calipers every winter because of this until I got some fully anodised after-market ones.
Great instructional on the brake pipe making - never considered it myself but seemingly really easy! Let alone for a Ferrari! Great work!
Glad you liked it!
I remade all the brake pipes and connectors on my TR6 during the lockdown, I'd never done anything like that before, I used the exact same "flare" kit and bought some pipe benders, and watched a few youtube instruction videos, I didn't have anyone to help with bleeding the brakes so I bought a pressure bleeder kit for around £45, so something that seemed quite daunting was actually surprisingly easy to do.....top tip....invest in the correct tools for the job , it makes doing a job like this straightforward.
Well done , admire your patience 👍
Adding Copperslip to teh threads as you but the bolts back in will make next time you undo them ..so much easier !
Scott you give me the fear working on your car in flip flops
Bolt broken in hub any good machine shop should be able to drill out the bolt with out destroying the threads and then chase/cleanup the threads
An induction gun would probably have spared you the bolt nightmare. They're incredible. Love the videos
They are really good for releasing nuts especially in similar materials. This just needed a blow torch on the ally. This would have expanded the threaded hole and softened any thread lock.
Reverse drill bit. Centre punch and then start small and build up. The heat of drilling often frees it up by the second or third size
Nicely done sir.
Hey dude. Got a email to contact you?
Another riveting watch. Well done for not only getting the car back on the road in time, but also saving yourself a packet into the bargain! Terrific stuff :-)
Thanks glad you enjoyed it
steel bolt into aluminum hub right? the metals should expand at different rates so I'd probably try to drill a hole in the bolt and use an ez out or something but before doing that I would really heat the hub up with a blowtorch or something. alternatively, just drill that bolt out on a drill press maybe?
It is phenomena named galling. And I think that happen to the bolt that broke. The threads are probably damaged. The bolt can be regarded as kind of friction welded to the adjacent surfaces
Nice job, hope all the Ferrari mechanic have your knowledge how to refurbished parts. You have the patient trouble shoot the problem down to the roots. The art of car repair is dying out. All they know just replace it (or destroy more?). The other youtuber also know the car well is M539 restoration. Cheer to the auto masters, keep on the next good work on your BBi.
I have to do the same with my lotus can’t afford shop prices ,very satisfying when you do it yourself well done 👍
It really is!
TIG THE BOLT to build the height drop a washer over it and tig then a nut or socket to the washer them with the heat transfer it should unscrew but the threads may shit themselves
wow thats a great idea !!
A perfectly timed video. I've got to do the brake lines on mine ( vw t4) thanks.
I really enjoyed watching this. Love your ingenuity and determination to revive that brake calibre.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Try Barum Engines for the bolt removal
drill small hole middle of it and then heat it up and use that bolt extractor set those work fine usually even with tricker bolts, amazon shows like 14 quid for set they aint really expensive but come handy even if spark plugs brake in ive used that.
It helps for any future repairs to use anti seize grease when re-assembling caliper and suspension bolts
Should caliper bolts not be fitted with threadlock?
Love the content as always. Great inspiration to give it a go 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
the grease in the wheel bearing makes it move slower, if the grease has leaked or dried out it spines easier and u can feel roughness and or noise
do you think the bearing is on its way out ?
Its so wierd the way the world works, both u n another you tuber are both working on the brake lines for their ferrari's during the same week
I don’t own a Ferrari. I don’t do any work on cars.
I don’t why I really love your channel! Really enjoy watching though, dreaming of the day I do 😆
Awesome! Thank you!
In regards to your broken bolt in the hub. I use a mug welder when I have steel bolts broken off in aluminum heads. I place a nut over it and weld the inside of the nut to the bolt shank. The process is two fold. The nut gives you a way to turn it and the heat from the welder will loosen up the threads.
Good tip!
If you are getting those pistons made, get them hard chrome plated ( no rusting).
Great video and glad you got it sorted.
thanks buddy
18:01 Working on a glass table.... brave man 🙂
Drill and tap a lefthand smaller thread maybe
Next time you have a dodgy bolt, try tightening it a smidge, before you try loosening it I know it sounds a bit counter intuitive , but it can work. I would also recommend coating all your threads with Molycote or copperslip to prevent corrosion in future. Oh and one more thing never ever use stainless bolts in a stainless part, even with lube, if you get any galling its game over.
BINGO YOU MUST OF WORKED ON AIRCRAFT AT SOME POINT
@@SMMBHQ-cg2zy Nope, but all sorts of other engines , pumps. compressors, that kinda thing, but been doing it for 46 years, you pick up a few things here and there . lol