I did this conversion on a 3010 Mule which is a little different because it has a 2 barrel carb. Was able to drill down through the mounting post into one of the barrels just as you did on your single barrel version. Drilled with a R drill bit and tapped 1/8 NPT and it all worked out fine. I realize now that the old fuel pump had been less than right for quite a while. Thanks for the video!
So after running for a while with this pump, it did not quite deliver enough fuel for the engine at WOT and would bog and die with my described install. I swapped in a Walbro FPC-1 fuel pump (which is spring assisted) and it seems to do the job. Turns out the Walbro might be better suited for intake installation such as a Mule. Be sure the pulse line is as short as possible and high quality. If the line is pulsing, the pump is not!
I like what you've done here. Could also add a primer bulb (like outboard motors use) under the seat for those times when the Mule sits uncranked for a while.
How does it idle without the governor-throttle linkage spring? Mine is missing too and Kawasaki conveniently discontinued the part#. My idle was all over the place - 550-650 rpm cold idle and 700-1100 warm idle which usually involved grinding gears. I temporarily fixed it by robbing the throttle linkage spring on my Honda mower which I hooked onto the throttle plate arm on the carb and the other end to one of the open slots on the choke cable bracket. I still have to feather cold starts but warm idle is back to around 750-800 RPMs.
Is the fuel pump supposed to have 12 volts? My neighbor ran out of fuel and since then it hasn't ran. There was no fuel being pumped. It has 12 volts at the pump connector but when the new pump was installed it ran for about a minute then stopped pumping again. I'm worried because I read somewhere that it is a 6 volt pump.
Mine was idling funny and dying not being able to hold an idle without your foot on the gas peddle. I rebuilt the carb and it ran well for a couple days then started acting up again. I let it sit for a while and said I am gonna fix this thing right. The biggest problem with mules are the steel gas tanks if you have them, mine was full of rust. So I ordered a new fuel pump on eBay it was $18.00 a spun aluminum gas tank so it would not rust $124.00 and a brand new carb $230.00. It took about 1 hour to change it all out and it now works perfect. I have used it everyday since and the problem has never reoccurred again. Here is what mine looks like ruclips.net/video/s3w_mHyt6no/видео.html Show less REPLY
Where did you get the aluminum gas tank? Your Mule looks great. DId you have any issues with the floor boards rusting out? I've been looking for videos of anyone replacing theirs.
![No more vacuum fuel pump problems! GY6 Won’t start: FIX! [PROBLD PULSER UNIT]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I_k3jgNswCU/mqdefault.jpg)
![No more vacuum fuel pump problems! GY6 Won’t start: FIX! [PROBLD PULSER UNIT]](/img/tr.png)
I did this conversion on a 3010 Mule which is a little different because it has a 2 barrel carb. Was able to drill down through the mounting post into one of the barrels just as you did on your single barrel version. Drilled with a R drill bit and tapped 1/8 NPT and it all worked out fine. I realize now that the old fuel pump had been less than right for quite a while. Thanks for the video!
So after running for a while with this pump, it did not quite deliver enough fuel for the engine at WOT and would bog and die with my described install. I swapped in a Walbro FPC-1 fuel pump (which is spring assisted) and it seems to do the job. Turns out the Walbro might be better suited for intake installation such as a Mule. Be sure the pulse line is as short as possible and high quality. If the line is pulsing, the pump is not!
I like what you've done here. Could also add a primer bulb (like outboard motors use) under the seat for those times when the Mule sits uncranked for a while.
How does it idle without the governor-throttle linkage spring? Mine is missing too and Kawasaki conveniently discontinued the part#. My idle was all over the place - 550-650 rpm cold idle and 700-1100 warm idle which usually involved grinding gears. I temporarily fixed it by robbing the throttle linkage spring on my Honda mower which I hooked onto the throttle plate arm on the carb and the other end to one of the open slots on the choke cable bracket. I still have to feather cold starts but warm idle is back to around 750-800 RPMs.
I got a pump coming hope this works! Any update on this? Anyone else try this?
Is the fuel pump supposed to have 12 volts? My neighbor ran out of fuel and since then it hasn't ran. There was no fuel being pumped. It has 12 volts at the pump connector but when the new pump was installed it ran for about a minute then stopped pumping again. I'm worried because I read somewhere that it is a 6 volt pump.
great instructions and get to save gidas too. guess all I need now is a jacka-- I mean mule! just funnen
Elwood Watson lol!!
How do you get a mule to drink gas?
How’s it holding up?
Cool idea. 👍
Mine was idling funny and dying not being able to hold an idle without your foot on the gas peddle. I rebuilt the carb and it ran well for a couple days then started acting up again. I let it sit for a while and said I am gonna fix this thing right. The biggest problem with mules are the steel gas tanks if you have them, mine was full of rust. So I ordered a new fuel pump on eBay it was $18.00 a spun aluminum gas tank so it would not rust $124.00 and a brand new carb $230.00. It took about 1 hour to change it all out and it now works perfect. I have used it everyday since and the problem has never reoccurred again. Here is what mine looks like ruclips.net/video/s3w_mHyt6no/видео.html
Show less
REPLY
Where did you get the aluminum gas tank? Your Mule looks great. DId you have any issues with the floor boards rusting out? I've been looking for videos of anyone replacing theirs.