Having the same problem with mine. Replaced it a couple of months ago. I used a Carter automotive pump. It runs, but only pumps a trickle of fuel, but not enough to keep it running. I can pressurize the tank and it pumps a little more, but not a steady stream.
Unfortunately it seems like a common problem on these. Other than that they are great machines. We have owned ours since 2005 and other than fuel pumps I don’t think we have had any other issues aside from routine maintenance. I am building doors to go with the top and windshields on it. The video should be posted by this weekend
Hey I can't tell which way things are going here but just FYI you either have the fuel filter backwards or the filter isn't on before the pump. The fuel flowing into the filter from the tank should fill the outside cone first. Second, the clean fuel goes through the filter and thirdly into the pump. Maybe the pumps aren't lasting because there isnt a filter before the pump?
Good catch I just double checked and did get the filter backwards. I always have trouble remembering which way it goes and rely on the flow arrows on the filter but for some reason this filter didn’t have one
I have almost the exact same mule with the same problem. I replaced to factory pump with a cheap one like you and it lasted about the same 6 mons or so! I only ran it maybe half a dozen times too! An old mechanic when I was having fuel pump problems on a volkswagon rabbit told me it was the ethanol in the fuel eating the rubber piece inside the pump and to use fuel treatment with every tank! The treatment seemed to work pretty well. Was wondering if thats not the problem with the cheap pumps as well! Fuel pumps now in vehicles have different rubber now than the older ones or ,so i was told ,so ethanol doesnt affect them like it used to. For close to $300 for an oem pump you would hope that would be the case as well! They are easy enough to change so I figure for 300 bux , I can buy 15 pumps @ 20 bux ea. Done deal! Not sure why they charge so much for oem pts. Motorcycles are the same! Ironic when you think that both oem and aftermarket parts are all made in china most likely!
Replaced fuel pump and fuel filter. For those without cement floors they can be changed out from top. In changing the pump I disconnected the power connectors and fuel line to carb and the one to the tank and pulled the whole line up by the seat. Replaced the parts and replaced the whole line up back as it was. Standing up all the time.
I’ve had several come in with bad connection at the wire terminal to wire crimp breaking It’s a good idea to replace the vehicle with terminals and solder them The cheap pumps don’t last very wrong and fuel psi is too much and flooding the carb is common
I haven’t had one yet flood the carb but every time I replace one it revs too high and makes shifting hard where I have to adjust the idle. I’d suspected it was due to the psi being higher. I did have one on our rhino clone that would overflow the carb and leak on the engine. I had to route a second line back into the tank to relieve the overflow
Anyone know the trick to get the old fuel pump removed that has the factory rubber damper mounting? I prefer to not have to cut the rubber damper. Obviously there is a way to slip the rubber damper off the frame mounting points, but it's not very obvious. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Could you explain the symptoms that led you to replace the fuel pump? My Mule runs normally but suddenly dies after an hour or so of work. Then it is really hard to get it to run again. It feels like fuel related but I don't know for sure if these pumps fail permanently or sporadically. I guess for $30 it is worth for me swapping the pumps and seeing whether the problem persists or goes away.
It would stop like it’s out of fuel then after sitting awhile it would start and run a minute or two like the fuel filter was clogged. I started removing hoses to check fuel flow. Fuel was fine going into the pump but not coming out. When the hose is off of the pump you should be able to put a finger on the inlet or outlet and feel suction on the inlet or air pushing lightly on the outlet. Another thing I’ve noticed is shortly before it goes out it will pump at a higher pressure and the rpm’s will be higher making the gears grind and hard to put in gear. I’ve replaced them enough i keep an extra. They are simple to change and cheap so when in doubt I change the pump and filter. So far it’s always been the issue. I hope this helps. My email is mageefarms72@gmail.com if I can be of any more help feel free to message me
No. I made that video 6 months ago and that pump is starting to act up. The factory one blasted almost ten years and I’m tempted to go that route but $300 bs $20 is a hard decision to make when they are pretty simple to change and I wonder if the Kawasaki one would last much longer
What is the 3rd line/nipple for & do I have to hook it up? Nipple & thin, limp “hose” at opposite end of pump, perpendicular to pump body. I am retrofitting the pump in a different application & haven’t found any usable info on it.
What is the 3rd line/nipple for & do I have to hook it up? Nipple & thin, limp “hose” at opposite end of pump, perpendicular to pump body. I am retrofitting the pump in a different application & haven’t found any usable info on it.
I think it’s some sort of vent line. The original was hooked into a line that went up the roll bar if I remember correctly. I have not hooked them up and just let them hang limp every time I’ve replaced one and it hasn’t hurt anything. I’ll look up a parts diagram and see if I can find the official answer
Having the same problem with mine. Replaced it a couple of months ago. I used a Carter automotive pump. It runs, but only pumps a trickle of fuel, but not enough to keep it running. I can pressurize the tank and it pumps a little more, but not a steady stream.
Unfortunately it seems like a common problem on these. Other than that they are great machines. We have owned ours since 2005 and other than fuel pumps I don’t think we have had any other issues aside from routine maintenance. I am building doors to go with the top and windshields on it. The video should be posted by this weekend
Hey I can't tell which way things are going here but just FYI you either have the fuel filter backwards or the filter isn't on before the pump. The fuel flowing into the filter from the tank should fill the outside cone first. Second, the clean fuel goes through the filter and thirdly into the pump. Maybe the pumps aren't lasting because there isnt a filter before the pump?
Good catch I just double checked and did get the filter backwards. I always have trouble remembering which way it goes and rely on the flow arrows on the filter but for some reason this filter didn’t have one
I am about to put my third pump in my 2016 Mule 4010 4x4. I am going to try a QFS in mine.
Let me know how the installation goes and how it holds up please
I have almost the exact same mule with the same problem. I replaced to factory pump with a cheap one like you and it lasted about the same 6 mons or so! I only ran it maybe half a dozen times too! An old mechanic when I was having fuel pump problems on a volkswagon rabbit told me it was the ethanol in the fuel eating the rubber piece inside the pump and to use fuel treatment with every tank! The treatment seemed to work pretty well. Was wondering if thats not the problem with the cheap pumps as well! Fuel pumps now in vehicles have different rubber now than the older ones or ,so i was told ,so ethanol doesnt affect them like it used to. For close to $300 for an oem pump you would hope that would be the case as well! They are easy enough to change so I figure for 300 bux , I can buy 15 pumps @ 20 bux ea. Done deal! Not sure why they charge so much for oem pts. Motorcycles are the same! Ironic when you think that both oem and aftermarket parts are all made in china most likely!
Clicker pumps will flood the carb to, max psi is 4/5 lbs
Run psi test on pump ??
@@philliphall5198 i did not chk the psi but that would be a good idea! Thx for the info!
Replaced fuel pump and fuel filter. For those without cement floors they can be changed out from top. In changing the pump I disconnected the power connectors and fuel line to carb and the one to the tank and pulled the whole line up by the seat. Replaced the parts and replaced the whole line up back as it was. Standing up all the time.
Thanks for the tip I’ll give that a try next time
I’ve had several come in with bad connection at the wire terminal to wire crimp breaking
It’s a good idea to replace the vehicle with terminals and solder them
The cheap pumps don’t last very wrong and fuel psi is too much and flooding the carb is common
I haven’t had one yet flood the carb but every time I replace one it revs too high and makes shifting hard where I have to adjust the idle. I’d suspected it was due to the psi being higher. I did have one on our rhino clone that would overflow the carb and leak on the engine. I had to route a second line back into the tank to relieve the overflow
Love the mule content
@off the streets and in the creeks we have had several utvs. The mule has outlasted them all and is still my favorite
Anyone know the trick to get the old fuel pump removed that has the factory rubber damper mounting? I prefer to not have to cut the rubber damper. Obviously there is a way to slip the rubber damper off the frame mounting points, but it's not very obvious. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Could you explain the symptoms that led you to replace the fuel pump? My Mule runs normally but suddenly dies after an hour or so of work. Then it is really hard to get it to run again. It feels like fuel related but I don't know for sure if these pumps fail permanently or sporadically. I guess for $30 it is worth for me swapping the pumps and seeing whether the problem persists or goes away.
It would stop like it’s out of fuel then after sitting awhile it would start and run a minute or two like the fuel filter was clogged. I started removing hoses to check fuel flow. Fuel was fine going into the pump but not coming out. When the hose is off of the pump you should be able to put a finger on the inlet or outlet and feel suction on the inlet or air pushing lightly on the outlet. Another thing I’ve noticed is shortly before it goes out it will pump at a higher pressure and the rpm’s will be higher making the gears grind and hard to put in gear. I’ve replaced them enough i keep an extra. They are simple to change and cheap so when in doubt I change the pump and filter. So far it’s always been the issue. I hope this helps. My email is mageefarms72@gmail.com if I can be of any more help feel free to message me
Did you ever find a cheap pump that would last? I have the same problem with cheap pumps not lasting.
No. I made that video 6 months ago and that pump is starting to act up. The factory one blasted almost ten years and I’m tempted to go that route but $300 bs $20 is a hard decision to make when they are pretty simple to change and I wonder if the Kawasaki one would last much longer
@@momohunter72 same here. My oem pump lated over a decade. But the oem pump is $263! Hard to want to come off that much for a fuel pump.
What is the 3rd line/nipple for & do I have to hook it up? Nipple & thin, limp “hose” at opposite end of pump, perpendicular to pump body. I am retrofitting the pump in a different application & haven’t found any usable info on it.
It is a vent. I did not hook mine up and did not have any problems
TY momo.
Hello, Are you interested in testing products? We would like to invite you to test the camo seat cover for your Kawasaki mule 3010
@StarKnight_official
Yes I would always be interested in trying any utv accessories. My email is mageefarms72@gmail.com
@@momohunter72 Thank you, we will send the details.
He would also like to test the new heated/air conditioned cab enclosure!
Just kidding starknight! Nice gesture on that seatcover!
What is the 3rd line/nipple for & do I have to hook it up? Nipple & thin, limp “hose” at opposite end of pump, perpendicular to pump body. I am retrofitting the pump in a different application & haven’t found any usable info on it.
I think it’s some sort of vent line. The original was hooked into a line that went up the roll bar if I remember correctly. I have not hooked them up and just let them hang limp every time I’ve replaced one and it hasn’t hurt anything. I’ll look up a parts diagram and see if I can find the official answer
@@momohunter72 Thank You. I did see one reference to “evaporative” in a parts diagram but that’s as far as I got.