Many years ago, (I'm 60 and have some health issues, so don't do much with cars these days) I began trying to get old vw cases back to good working condition. I found it good to pull out the studs and flatten the case halves by using some 220 grit sand paper glued to to a granite surface plate and dragging the case over the paper in a figure 8 motion, checking frequently to see when it was cleaned up. This was good to do first, because often times we deck the spigot surfaces to get them flat... but if we distort the case when we hold it down on the bridgeport table and machine the spigots, it will not be flat when we remove it from the mill table. Once both halves are flat, the case can begin to be re-machined to to accept the Crank and cam bearings and the oil pump. I made a lap that was the right diameter to glue a specific thickness of wet/dry sanding paper to and would place it in the cam tunnel then rotate it by hand as I snugged the case bolts down a little bit at a time till it were closed, restoring the cam bearing diameters to original size and straightness. The oil pump bore could then be bored with a boring head, picking up its center on the fresh cam tunnel bore. The Main tunnel, I feel, really deserves some special attention...here's why. The factory front seal bore that we locate our align boring fixture in is often not concentric with with the original Main line bore by several thousandths. I've seen them often .007 out of location. Now when the engine was built, the seal bore wasn't held to tight tolerance because the seal has flexibility and doesn't rotate with the crank, so it did not matter if it was a little off center. However, it's not necessarily a good reference to be putting the align boring bar's bushing in. We would prefer the main bore to be located precisely on the centerline of the case. On the front of the case, there are two additional issues to be aware of. The location of the main tunnel relative to the cam tunnel so our crank and cam gears are the correct distance apart, and the distance of our distributor drive gear and the mating gear on the crankshaft. When we locate our align boring bars bushing in the case snout, which may be worn or damaged, and not actually a true registration of the cases original factory center line, we are assuming that we are accurately locating our align boring bar, but often we are not. As you can imagine It takes a lot of time to to correctly set up a case to be cut correctly after the case halves have been properly flattened. I believe this often why we just dont get the results we hoped for out of typical aligned bored cases. And it's not the machinists fault...VW owners are some of the most frugal people on the planet, and most would balk at the cost of rebuilding a case more accurately. Probably why Gene Berg would not rebuild old, fretted, warped cases. It can be done...but it takes a lot of care and time.
I really appreciate the time you put into explaining your experience. With labor costs being what they are it is totally unrealistic to do all that for a one off case rebuild not to mention that the properties of the case itself changes after all the heat cycles it goes threw. I have seen videos of VW shops that have piles of used cases that they go threw and most are rejected because of cracks and defects. Not to mention all the stupid things uniformed frugal owners did in a attempt to fix things temporarily to extend the use or to hide something and sell it to someone else. I've always told folks to do what you need to do to get your engine to running fairly well and then start saving money for new parts to build your dream engine with more power. My last point of agreement with you is that after everything is said most inexperienced new owners are trying to get more power from those old worn out cases. Thanks again for your comment and support.
@@TheEZGZ I must confess that I too was pretty frugal and only did that kind of work for my own curiosity and experience. Being a toolmaker with my own machine tools and a align boring bar I spent many hours wondering and experimenting...so much fun! But yes, if a high dollar engine is being built and a long life is expected, why begin with a tired, deformed, heat-cycled case? Money wise it just makes sense to go with a new case. Byt many of us enjoy experimenting and discovering the secrets of the vw engine! Thanks for taking us thru your experiences EZGZ, such fun!
Love your videos EZ, definitely one of my go-to guys for the info. Just about to start my 2276 build this week and all of the advice from you and Darrin is just priceless. Thank you soooooo much for being here and sharing your knowledge.
Me too used the original 1969 Single Port case for a rebuild. Very keen to see how it will work, torque and power. I had problems to fit any later oilpumps, No matter if 26 mm Schadek or 32 mm US bugback with filter, they both hit the cam screws. Hope to see soon how you solve this problem. Darren posted a video on youtube earlier. We all do love these engines! Best Regards from Germany Bjoern
I just check it as I build it and I have ground down the heads on the cam bolts in the past. Most companys don't make them go in much further. Instead they extend outside the case and you need longer bolts or studs. The factory uses rivets to hold on the cam gear so it is less of a problem. If you can't make pressure with a 30mm geared pump or smaller you have some clearance problems or something is seriously wrong.
I used my dremel to match port my intakes with my heads and ported the heads with it too. Cut long strips of sand paper and tape them to used sanding drums. It centers itself and makes polishing a lot quicker. Love the videos!
Don't Forget to do the suction side of the pump also. I have found that that side to be mismatched a few times. Also you might want to seal up that pick up tube where it goes into the case. If you can move it, it is no longer sealed. VW wedged those things in there with a expansion tool to seal it to the case. Most people don't understand that when the engine is running the top of that tube is not covered by oil. And if it is loose it can suck in air causing oil pressure problems. Anyway looks like a fun stocker plus motor.
Just so you know. On this engine the entire pickup tube is submerged in the oil even if it is a little low. I just came in from checking it. The tube is steel and the case is alloy. That if anything would expand and tighten onto the tube at normal temp. I have however heard of using steel Melling oil pumps leaking on the suction side due to improper expansion due to different metal.
@@TheEZGZ oh I do understand, just thought I would ask. I'm guessing I will have to replace engine to get this flywheel issue gone. Have been all over the internet, all I'm getting is used ones and in the same shape , so guess I will step up, looking at a 1835 right now, 3500. Turn key, or 2500 if i build it.
I sure would not spend that for a 1835. be patient and wait for a good 1600 DP you will really feel the difference from what you have. The 12 volt to 6 volt conversion will drive you crazy. I'm not talking electrics. Your going to need a different starting motor and change the starter bushing and clearance the mounting bolts in the bell housing. Pressure plate won't match ether. I have many vids explaining this stuff.
@@TheEZGZ ok, thanks for the heads up, yes I have been going nuts over this flywheel thing. I knew it was going to be extensive with nothing of mine will cross, including clearing in the bell housing. I pulled it friday, teeth on the ring gear are shot, I took a file and opened up the teeth agian, so the bendix could make engagement. But I dont think it going to last long, are reclocked the flywheel to crank, so the bad spot would hopefully not stop in the same as the starter position, giving a better set of teeth to work off of. Put it back in Saturday, seems to be ok for now. So I got time, just dont know how much time. What is a good price for a 1600 dp? Was thinking a 71 or 72 model if I had choices. Let me know. Thanks ez , your the man with the answers.
How about this vwparts.aircooled.net/Stock-Weight-Flywheel-6V-Ring-Gear-180mm-Clutch-p/rebuilt-type-1-flywheel-180mm.htm Seems like you can still find a rusty old VW with engine and tranny for under $1K I would defienetly hot wire it and make sure it runs. Mustie1 has a lots of vids where he found an old engine and brought it back to life.
Amazing how you can process all those details. This Engine is going to run forever. Looking Great!👍. Dang you do Great Work. See you again soon my friend. BigW:-)
I don't have a spare pump to cut in half but I am going to make a template from my pump. This will help me enlarge the hole for better flow. Thanks for the great video and info! Enjoy!
Great build EZGZ👍 and I’m following your updates with great anticipation. I’m planning a similar 1800cc (thick wall 88 X 74 stroke) single port for my 67. Single port engines make more torque down low but start to choke above 5000 rpm, perfect for a Baja or daily (street) driver.
That’s a good video and something I overlooked when I built my 2276 ten years ago and it’s still running. I’m just curious, how do you know the oil pump you will be using will have the hole in that exact place? As you said it also has a gasket and must be torqued down. Will the end result be totally different from what you have done with the half pump template?
I can measure from the face of the pump tool to the ID and OD of the discharge hole and do the same on the pump I am going to use. It doesn't have to be exact. The case just needs to be the same or a little bigger. Just as long as my oil doesn't have to run into that flat edge as its moving on it's journey I know I made an improvement. I will also be making a very small radius on the inside curve on all the holes in the pump and in the filter adapter? I am pretty sure that most folks just bolt this stuff on and don't have problems on stock engines. I have always built higher HP engines and was taught to pay attention to the little details. It is just a habit that I enjoy looking for these things and fixing them. If I had the time and made money at this I would assemble it and run it and take measure measurements. Then do the mod and test it again to see the improvement. Like somebody else said in one of the comments. VW people are very frugal ( a nice way of saying "cheapskates"") That's one of the reasons I am even attempting to reuse this case. I have a 2 liter, a 2110, and a 2276. They all had brand new engine cases and working great for years. My other 1776 and 1800 were made with used cases and both have issue's after a few thousand miles. I'm sure it is due to parts alignment. Thanks for your comment and support.
What a great idea to taper the oil case hole on pressure side... I'm presently closing up another 1600 engine for sand rail number 14 and just checked the case oil hole after watching this vid and have the same situation... will do the same, thanks my friend. By the way, what are the dots (punch marks) on the two oil pump gears? The pumps I install down here all have the marks on both gears as well. Yea you said it, these are great engines so fun to work on. We use these cases for ever and can line bore them out all the way to 2.00 and crank shafts we turn down all the way to 0.75 (mains and rods). And they still run sweet and stay together no problem. What other auto engine could you ever do that to?
I noticed those punch marks and can not find anything about indexing them. I guessing that it is a manufacturing thing to keep tabs on them when they are made. I have installed them at different points and turned the pumps and can't find anything binding???? I have a few more tricks up my sleeve on the inside of these engines. I hope you like them. It sounds like you have a VW Off Road Dealership going down there. Keep up the good work.
Love your info and ideas! My Dad used to build Nascar race engines. I am building a twin 1600 engined trike here in the UK one mounted on top of the other so Any advice you may have would love to here from you
That sounds very interesting and challenging. At least with a trike it is probably lighter weight and more air available to cool things. How are you connecting the drive line. I'm guess you will you a double roller chain from a V-8 engine or some type of Cog belt like the rear drive of a Harley Davidson mmmmmm the possibilities are endless
@@TheEZGZ yes bang on hd duplex chain but am looking at Harley rear drive belts as well Only thing is not sure how to set firing other suggestions have been to get cylinder 1 and 1, 2 and 2 and so on to fire together and do I use 2 distributors or try and use 2 anyway got the engines so its def gonna happen Thanks for all the stuff you do Ps have a brother in Florida and Dad and another brother in Michigan was adopted and didn't know them until last year after searching for Dad for 40 odd years so am proud to be half American
There are some folks trying to start a VW club. Calling it "Rare Air" They meet the 1st Tuesday of every month in Ft. Collins. I think they are actually based out of Longmont if your interested I can try and find out more. I'm not much of a club guy. I sometimes go just to hang out. Take Care
Gotta love you EZ. By the way, have you kept track of how many videos you've made? I have some down time after shoulder surgery, and want to watch as many as possible before my build.
GZ, could you give me a hint? I'm thinking about using a straight cut cam gear on a 1600 engine, but it's for my daily driver. I've heard many people say good and bad things about it, you've even mentioned some stuff on other videos... I'm mostly concerned about noise and comfort. I know there is a lot of things that play major influence on the noise factor, but would love if you gave your opinion so I could take it into consideration. As always, thank you so much for another great video! All you guys out there that have more experience and would like to share, I'd appreciate very much. Thank you!
I had a 1776 with straight cut. It was steel on crank and aluminum on cam. Would make a whirrring noise when cold and then I hardly noticed. The steel on steel make a lot more noise and were really made for heavy duty racing springs, doubles and triples. Bad Ass stuff. I have a set and was going to put it in this engine but I ended up getting a stock cam that came with the gear riveted to it. Most people don't install it according to recommendations. If you have any stress in the key area of the cast iron crankshaft gear it will most likely crack after a few thousand miles or less. It's hard to tell because it is a friction fit and you need to heat it to install it. Darrin ounce said it creates harmonics that will ruin your lifters and I did eventually have a lifter bore go bad, Was it because of the cam gear?????? Look at it this way. If your rebuilding any VW engine with a lot of aftermarket parts and don't own a machine shop and don't own expensive accurate measuring tools your chances of having a long life engine are slim. The other problem is that darn gas peddle. If your the type that always has it to the floor then nothing will last. Just buy the best you can afford and try it. If you don't like it take it back out.... Have fun with your project. Everyone you ask will tell you something different. Try it on a cheap rebuild and see how it goes.
Fun project you got going there! I recently bought a complete engine that was built with a new case and all new parts. The poor guy was upset and got rid of all his Vw stuff. Who ever built the motor used one of those filter pumps but put a stock flat oil pump cover on it. The motor never got any oil pumped through it and ran only a couple minutes before a rod bearing seized. Just needs a crank and rods to fix. Complete 1914 with new CB heads. What carb are you gonna use on your 1776 single port?
Since it's a stock cam and single port I thought I would start out with a German 30 PCT 1 and later a 34 PCT 3 to see if there is a different. If I don't like that I might change to dual port heads and 1.3 ratio rockers. I should install hinges on this case so I can try all the options I have laying around and in my head. I am very interested in any suggestions you might have. I respect your experience and Nice score on your 1914!!!!!
The 34 pict will probably be just fine. I'll be interested to see if the 30pict will make it up a hill. 1776 has always been my favorite size engine for longevity with a little extra power. Happy motoring my friend!
Cuestion on my 1915 bug motor I develope o nous on the cam and I didn't loose comprecion o power so they told me the my cam gear came lose so they told me to take the oil pump and tighten by cam gear through the oil pump by removing it what would you recommend
on the oil pickup bracket thought... I know you're a fan of the big sumps, are those studs long enough to catch the sump? You favor studs over hex-screws for the sump? thanks man I dig your videos.
This engine will be stock and I am going to stick with the stock set up until I get it running and see how I like it. The factory used studs and special cap nuts with copper washers. I have always had a dribble of oil from somewhere eventually. The bigger sumps usually come as a kit with longer allen head Cap screws. I always favor whatever works and when one thing don't work I try something else. I'm guessing I will run it this way at least for the summer and then take it apart to see how the bearings look
good video, I've never built a air cooled motor but I have assisted in building v8s. What do you think of CB performance's you build kits? everything included in the box, you build it yourself. currently I have an 1835 that is over 20 years old with many miles on it. still runs but afraid to rebuild.
Those kits are really well made but I don't like the camshafts they use to get those numbers. You will also find that you will need a lot more parts. They are using straight Cut cam gears and no long sell distributor drive shafts. Don't forget you also have to use there recommended carbruator choices to get those numbers as well.
@@TheEZGZ looks like you have been doing it awhile, this there a build yourself kit out there that you would recommend. I understand you know what pieces will work for a case, jugs and heads but is there a good place for a guy like me to get started or a kit?
It kept getting worse. I thought it might be the new sending unit. I drove it from Portland OR. to Denver soon after the vid and taking the engine apart. The case was lined bored again with new pump and bearings and it still had weird oil Press. There are many variables with oil pressure. You really can't compare one to another
@@TheEZGZ wild, thanks for the reply. I was hoping for good news, but your right, you never know. But without people pushing the limits and trying new things we wouldn't be very far.
Mercedes-Benz put a check valve and your motor to prevent oil air foam in the oil maximum lubrication reduce wear by 50% I put it on my VW I'm at close is the airport I'm the airport on the oil have a check valve the response was phenomenal think about it the Piston firing in top when the Piston come down you create A reverse air compressor you formed the oil up which creates a lot of wear and tear this morning can be done when you put the check valve with a oil cooler if you put the check valve without a oil cooler the air in the oil usually act as a cooling system but with it it come with high wear and tear this is the stock system it's a defect in the air-cooled motor
Message Ben engine like from the old Mercedes Benz the motor have a check valve to prevent oil foaming I did the same thing on my VW it's improved the motor oil lubrication will increase there is no more air in the crankcase very little no blowback from Air once you put a check valve in the motor on the air breeder the gravity of oil return increase the gravity of oil lubrication increase also a lot of cars carry the system
I just bought a VW Trike it have a full automatic transmission I do not know what year it is it is not a semi-automatic I got the trike 2 days ago I always wanted one never had the time to build it was too hard to put a torch on my Super Beetle I will not destroy my Super Beetle but I'm really excited to re-do the trike bring it to state-of-the-art I will put fuel injection system and so on into it most important I do a lot of City Driving in New York City I want to increase the sump size anyway I watch your video excellent job on explanation Jeezy Peezy thanks man looking forward to watch the next video
It's ether spark timing or fuel. Every engine is different. What kind of Carburetor and how it is set up makes a difference as well. Don't forget heat in the intake is good.
You are confusing people by comparing the 1300 case to the 1500 case. The oil port sizes are larger in the later model cases, especially in the as21 and as41 cases.
I have in fact mentioned that several times during this recent Single Port build series. If you just jump into the middle you would probably find a lot of things left out or confusing.
Many years ago, (I'm 60 and have some health issues, so don't do much with cars these days) I began trying to get old vw cases back to good working condition. I found it good to pull out the studs and flatten the case halves by using some 220 grit sand paper glued to to a granite surface plate and dragging the case over the paper in a figure 8 motion, checking frequently to see when it was cleaned up. This was good to do first, because often times we deck the spigot surfaces to get them flat... but if we distort the case when we hold it down on the bridgeport table and machine the spigots, it will not be flat when we remove it from the mill table.
Once both halves are flat, the case can begin to be re-machined to to accept the Crank and cam bearings and the oil pump. I made a lap that was the right diameter to glue a specific thickness of wet/dry sanding paper to and would place it in the cam tunnel then rotate it by hand as I snugged the case bolts down a little bit at a time till it were closed, restoring the cam bearing diameters to original size and straightness. The oil pump bore could then be bored with a boring head, picking up its center on the fresh cam tunnel bore.
The Main tunnel, I feel, really deserves some special attention...here's why. The factory front seal bore that we locate our align boring fixture in is often not concentric with with the original Main line bore by several thousandths. I've seen them often .007 out of location. Now when the engine was built, the seal bore wasn't held to tight tolerance because the seal has flexibility and doesn't rotate with the crank, so it did not matter if it was a little off center. However, it's not necessarily a good reference to be putting the align boring bar's bushing in. We would prefer the main bore to be located precisely on the centerline of the case.
On the front of the case, there are two additional issues to be aware of. The location of the main tunnel relative to the cam tunnel so our crank and cam gears are the correct distance apart, and the distance of our distributor drive gear and the mating gear on the crankshaft. When we locate our align boring bars bushing in the case snout, which may be worn or damaged, and not actually a true registration of the cases original factory center line, we are assuming that we are accurately locating our align boring bar, but often we are not.
As you can imagine It takes a lot of time to to correctly set up a case to be cut correctly after the case halves have been properly flattened. I believe this often why we just dont get the results we hoped for out of typical aligned bored cases. And it's not the machinists fault...VW owners are some of the most frugal people on the planet, and most would balk at the cost of rebuilding a case more accurately. Probably why Gene Berg would not rebuild old, fretted, warped cases. It can be done...but it takes a lot of care and time.
I really appreciate the time you put into explaining your experience. With labor costs being what they are it is totally unrealistic to do all that for a one off case rebuild not to mention that the properties of the case itself changes after all the heat cycles it goes threw. I have seen videos of VW shops that have piles of used cases that they go threw and most are rejected because of cracks and defects. Not to mention all the stupid things uniformed frugal owners did in a attempt to fix things temporarily to extend the use or to hide something and sell it to someone else. I've always told folks to do what you need to do to get your engine to running fairly well and then start saving money for new parts to build your dream engine with more power. My last point of agreement with you is that after everything is said most inexperienced new owners are trying to get more power from those old worn out cases.
Thanks again for your comment and support.
@@TheEZGZ I must confess that I too was pretty frugal and only did that kind of work for my own curiosity and experience. Being a toolmaker with my own machine tools and a align boring bar I spent many hours wondering and experimenting...so much fun! But yes, if a high dollar engine is being built and a long life is expected, why begin with a tired, deformed, heat-cycled case? Money wise it just makes sense to go with a new case. Byt many of us enjoy experimenting and discovering the secrets of the vw engine! Thanks for taking us thru your experiences EZGZ, such fun!
Wow 800 UK pounds for a new case though !!.
Thank you for all your info over the years. You are a major asset to the VW community. Thank you again
Love your videos EZ, definitely one of my go-to guys for the info. Just about to start my 2276 build this week and all of the advice from you and Darrin is just priceless. Thank you soooooo much for being here and sharing your knowledge.
Good Luck with your project. I hope you get lots of smiles to the miles!
Me too used the original 1969 Single Port case for a rebuild. Very keen to see how it will work, torque and power. I had problems to fit any later oilpumps, No matter if 26 mm Schadek or 32 mm US bugback with filter, they both hit the cam screws. Hope to see soon how you solve this problem. Darren posted a video on youtube earlier. We all do love these engines! Best Regards from Germany
Bjoern
I just check it as I build it and I have ground down the heads on the cam bolts in the past. Most companys don't make them go in much further. Instead they extend outside the case and you need longer bolts or studs. The factory uses rivets to hold on the cam gear so it is less of a problem. If you can't make pressure with a 30mm geared pump or smaller you have some clearance problems or something is seriously wrong.
I used my dremel to match port my intakes with my heads and ported the heads with it too. Cut long strips of sand paper and tape them to used sanding drums. It centers itself and makes polishing a lot quicker. Love the videos!
Great Tip! Thanks from all of us!
Don't Forget to do the suction side of the pump also. I have found that that side to be mismatched a few times. Also you might want to seal up that pick up tube where it goes into the case. If you can move it, it is no longer sealed. VW wedged those things in there with a expansion tool to seal it to the case. Most people don't understand that when the engine is running the top of that tube is not covered by oil. And if it is loose it can suck in air causing oil pressure problems. Anyway looks like a fun stocker plus motor.
Good tips Matt. I will check it out. Oh by the way. I have seen a few of your vids. Keep up the good work!
Just so you know. On this engine the entire pickup tube is submerged in the oil even if it is a little low. I just came in from checking it. The tube is steel and the case is alloy. That if anything would expand and tighten onto the tube at normal temp. I have however heard of using steel Melling oil pumps leaking on the suction side due to improper expansion due to different metal.
Another great video, love the attention to detail. Looking forward to seeing more of this build, might just jerk the 1200 out and do the same
Summer is just around the corner, ya better hurry
@@TheEZGZ oh I do understand, just thought I would ask. I'm guessing I will have to replace engine to get this flywheel issue gone. Have been all over the internet, all I'm getting is used ones and in the same shape , so guess I will step up, looking at a 1835 right now, 3500. Turn key, or 2500 if i build it.
I sure would not spend that for a 1835. be patient and wait for a good 1600 DP you will really feel the difference from what you have. The 12 volt to 6 volt conversion will drive you crazy. I'm not talking electrics. Your going to need a different starting motor and change the starter bushing and clearance the mounting bolts in the bell housing. Pressure plate won't match ether. I have many vids explaining this stuff.
@@TheEZGZ ok, thanks for the heads up, yes I have been going nuts over this flywheel thing. I knew it was going to be extensive with nothing of mine will cross, including clearing in the bell housing. I pulled it friday, teeth on the ring gear are shot, I took a file and opened up the teeth agian, so the bendix could make engagement. But I dont think it going to last long, are reclocked the flywheel to crank, so the bad spot would hopefully not stop in the same as the starter position, giving a better set of teeth to work off of.
Put it back in Saturday, seems to be ok for now. So I got time, just dont know how much time.
What is a good price for a 1600 dp?
Was thinking a 71 or 72 model if I had choices. Let me know.
Thanks ez , your the man with the answers.
How about this vwparts.aircooled.net/Stock-Weight-Flywheel-6V-Ring-Gear-180mm-Clutch-p/rebuilt-type-1-flywheel-180mm.htm
Seems like you can still find a rusty old VW with engine and tranny for under $1K I would defienetly hot wire it and make sure it runs. Mustie1 has a lots of vids where he found an old engine and brought it back to life.
Amazing how you can process all those details. This Engine is going to run forever. Looking Great!👍. Dang you do Great Work. See you again soon my friend. BigW:-)
Thank you sir for the knowledge still watching you today
I appreciate that
I don't have a spare pump to cut in half but I am going to make a template from my pump. This will help me enlarge the hole for better flow. Thanks for the great video and info! Enjoy!
I thought about how to do that but couldn't think of how to index it so went to the old parts pile. I really need to start throwing things away.
Excellent video as always. Thanks for sharing your passion for these wonderful air cooled beauties!
I know I'm not alone. Thank You for your support
So here I am putting my socks on in the morning, watching ez tell me about his new build. I lost it! Lol
nice tips on the pump,i'm about to make my case full flowed
I'm tired of full flow. Always trying to figure out where to hang the darn stuff.
@@TheEZGZ true the engine on my ghia has a full flow system, and the hoses almost touches the exhaust hehe
Great build EZGZ👍 and I’m following your updates with great anticipation.
I’m planning a similar 1800cc (thick wall 88 X 74 stroke) single port for my 67. Single port engines make more torque down low but start to choke above 5000 rpm, perfect for a Baja or daily (street) driver.
Nice sock analogy. Your engine build ia differently custom. Nice.
Darn it! This is a good comment.... hehehe
Finally first. Great to see you again Mr. EZGZ
Congratulations! Have yourself a Burrito to celebrate! :-)
Great work as always. Thanks for all of your tips and insight!
I appreciate your support as well
That’s a good video and something I overlooked when I built my 2276 ten years ago and it’s still running. I’m just curious, how do you know the oil pump you will be using will have the hole in that exact place? As you said it also has a gasket and must be torqued down. Will the end result be totally different from what you have done with the half pump template?
I can measure from the face of the pump tool to the ID and OD of the discharge hole and do the same on the pump I am going to use. It doesn't have to be exact. The case just needs to be the same or a little bigger. Just as long as my oil doesn't have to run into that flat edge as its moving on it's journey I know I made an improvement. I will also be making a very small radius on the inside curve on all the holes in the pump and in the filter adapter? I am pretty sure that most folks just bolt this stuff on and don't have problems on stock engines. I have always built higher HP engines and was taught to pay attention to the little details. It is just a habit that I enjoy looking for these things and fixing them. If I had the time and made money at this I would assemble it and run it and take measure measurements. Then do the mod and test it again to see the improvement. Like somebody else said in one of the comments. VW people are very frugal ( a nice way of saying "cheapskates"") That's one of the reasons I am even attempting to reuse this case. I have a 2 liter, a 2110, and a 2276. They all had brand new engine cases and working great for years. My other 1776 and 1800 were made with used cases and both have issue's after a few thousand miles. I'm sure it is due to parts alignment. Thanks for your comment and support.
To own a bug you have to have a 3 to 1 ratio. 3 engines in various states of disrepair for every VW chassis.
LMAO Can I use that line in my show. hehehe
TheEZGZ of course you can use it
What a great idea to taper the oil case hole on pressure side... I'm presently closing up another 1600 engine for sand rail number 14 and just checked the case oil hole after watching this vid and have the same situation... will do the same, thanks my friend.
By the way, what are the dots (punch marks) on the two oil pump gears? The pumps I install down here all have the marks on both gears as well.
Yea you said it, these are great engines so fun to work on. We use these cases for ever and can line bore them out all the way to 2.00 and crank shafts we turn down all the way to 0.75 (mains and rods). And they still run sweet and stay together no problem. What other auto engine could you ever do that to?
I noticed those punch marks and can not find anything about indexing them. I guessing that it is a manufacturing thing to keep tabs on them when they are made. I have installed them at different points and turned the pumps and can't find anything binding???? I have a few more tricks up my sleeve on the inside of these engines. I hope you like them. It sounds like you have a VW Off Road Dealership going down there. Keep up the good work.
Love your info and ideas!
My Dad used to build Nascar race engines.
I am building a twin 1600 engined trike here in the UK one mounted on top of the other so Any advice you may have would love to here from you
That sounds very interesting and challenging. At least with a trike it is probably lighter weight and more air available to cool things. How are you connecting the drive line. I'm guess you will you a double roller chain from a V-8 engine or some type of Cog belt like the rear drive of a Harley Davidson mmmmmm the possibilities are endless
@@TheEZGZ yes bang on hd duplex chain but am looking at Harley rear drive belts as well
Only thing is not sure how to set firing other suggestions have been to get cylinder 1 and 1, 2 and 2 and so on to fire together and do I use 2 distributors or try and use 2 anyway got the engines so its def gonna happen
Thanks for all the stuff you do
Ps have a brother in Florida and Dad and another brother in Michigan was adopted and didn't know them until last year after searching for Dad for 40 odd years so am proud to be half American
I'm curious where your located. I'm in Brighton, Colorado. I've got a 1967 bug (completely disassembled) and a 63 panel I'm getting going.
Loveland Co
@@TheEZGZ Cool, right up the road!
There are some folks trying to start a VW club. Calling it "Rare Air" They meet the 1st Tuesday of every month in Ft. Collins. I think they are actually based out of Longmont if your interested I can try and find out more. I'm not much of a club guy. I sometimes go just to hang out. Take Care
@@TheEZGZ I'm not much of a club guy either.
How's the engine running so far? 10 ish months later?
I don't think the oil pick up tube in the case is OEM type. I would replace it, with oem one from a later case.
I will look into that. Thank You
Oh playing with vw engines them are fun.
Seems like we are always back engineering something. I wonder if all this stuff started on a table napkin. hehehe
Gotta love you EZ. By the way, have you kept track of how many videos you've made? I have some down time after shoulder surgery, and want to watch as many as possible before my build.
700 vids or more. Get well soon
GZ, could you give me a hint? I'm thinking about using a straight cut cam gear on a 1600 engine, but it's for my daily driver. I've heard many people say good and bad things about it, you've even mentioned some stuff on other videos... I'm mostly concerned about noise and comfort. I know there is a lot of things that play major influence on the noise factor, but would love if you gave your opinion so I could take it into consideration. As always, thank you so much for another great video!
All you guys out there that have more experience and would like to share, I'd appreciate very much. Thank you!
I had a 1776 with straight cut. It was steel on crank and aluminum on cam. Would make a whirrring noise when cold and then I hardly noticed. The steel on steel make a lot more noise and were really made for heavy duty racing springs, doubles and triples. Bad Ass stuff. I have a set and was going to put it in this engine but I ended up getting a stock cam that came with the gear riveted to it. Most people don't install it according to recommendations. If you have any stress in the key area of the cast iron crankshaft gear it will most likely crack after a few thousand miles or less. It's hard to tell because it is a friction fit and you need to heat it to install it. Darrin ounce said it creates harmonics that will ruin your lifters and I did eventually have a lifter bore go bad, Was it because of the cam gear?????? Look at it this way. If your rebuilding any VW engine with a lot of aftermarket parts and don't own a machine shop and don't own expensive accurate measuring tools your chances of having a long life engine are slim. The other problem is that darn gas peddle. If your the type that always has it to the floor then nothing will last. Just buy the best you can afford and try it. If you don't like it take it back out.... Have fun with your project. Everyone you ask will tell you something different. Try it on a cheap rebuild and see how it goes.
@@TheEZGZ, that's actually great advice. Thank you for taking the time to answer such a small thing.
Fun project you got going there! I recently bought a complete engine that was built with a new case and all new parts. The poor guy was upset and got rid of all his Vw stuff. Who ever built the motor used one of those filter pumps but put a stock flat oil pump cover on it. The motor never got any oil pumped through it and ran only a couple minutes before a rod bearing seized. Just needs a crank and rods to fix. Complete 1914 with new CB heads. What carb are you gonna use on your 1776 single port?
Since it's a stock cam and single port I thought I would start out with a German 30 PCT 1 and later a 34 PCT 3 to see if there is a different. If I don't like that I might change to dual port heads and 1.3 ratio rockers. I should install hinges on this case so I can try all the options I have laying around and in my head.
I am very interested in any suggestions you might have. I respect your experience and Nice score on your 1914!!!!!
The 34 pict will probably be just fine. I'll be interested to see if the 30pict will make it up a hill. 1776 has always been my favorite size engine for longevity with a little extra power. Happy motoring my friend!
Ez, did you have to change the studs for the oil pump too?
Not this time. It was a used case
Good analogy sir...
Thanks for watching and commenting
Where did you go in Denver for your bearings?
painters grinding
Cuestion on my 1915 bug motor I develope o nous on the cam and I didn't loose comprecion o power so they told me the my cam gear came lose so they told me to take the oil pump and tighten by cam gear through the oil pump by removing it what would you recommend
might be worth checking into. PITHA but possible to do while in the car. Pull the oil pump and check the cam gear.
on the oil pickup bracket thought... I know you're a fan of the big sumps, are those studs long enough to catch the sump? You favor studs over hex-screws for the sump? thanks man I dig your videos.
This engine will be stock and I am going to stick with the stock set up until I get it running and see how I like it. The factory used studs and special cap nuts with copper washers. I have always had a dribble of oil from somewhere eventually. The bigger sumps usually come as a kit with longer allen head Cap screws. I always favor whatever works and when one thing don't work I try something else. I'm guessing I will run it this way at least for the summer and then take it apart to see how the bearings look
good video, I've never built a air cooled motor but I have assisted in building v8s. What do you think of CB performance's you build kits? everything included in the box, you build it yourself.
currently I have an 1835 that is over 20 years old with many miles on it. still runs but afraid to rebuild.
Those kits are really well made but I don't like the camshafts they use to get those numbers. You will also find that you will need a lot more parts. They are using straight Cut cam gears and no long sell distributor drive shafts. Don't forget you also have to use there recommended carbruator choices to get those numbers as well.
@@TheEZGZ
looks like you have been doing it awhile, this there a build yourself kit out there that you would recommend. I understand you know what pieces will work for a case, jugs and heads but is there a good place for a guy like me to get started or a kit?
what kind of oil pressure did you end up getting Sir?
It kept getting worse. I thought it might be the new sending unit. I drove it from Portland OR. to Denver soon after the vid and taking the engine apart. The case was lined bored again with new pump and bearings and it still had weird oil Press.
There are many variables with oil pressure. You really can't compare one to another
@@TheEZGZ wild, thanks for the reply. I was hoping for good news, but your right, you never know. But without people pushing the limits and trying new things we wouldn't be very far.
Do you like the Hoover mod ?
@@randygandee9674
No! Not needed and doesn’t make extra power. VW would have done it if it was needed. Thanks for your comment and support
Mercedes-Benz put a check valve and your motor to prevent oil air foam in the oil maximum lubrication reduce wear by 50% I put it on my VW I'm at close is the airport I'm the airport on the oil have a check valve the response was phenomenal think about it the Piston firing in top when the Piston come down you create A reverse air compressor you formed the oil up which creates a lot of wear and tear this morning can be done when you put the check valve with a oil cooler if you put the check valve without a oil cooler the air in the oil usually act as a cooling system but with it it come with high wear and tear this is the stock system it's a defect in the air-cooled motor
Very hard to understand your point. I think VW did a good job with oil system for stock engine and normal driving IMHO
Message Ben engine like from the old Mercedes Benz the motor have a check valve to prevent oil foaming I did the same thing on my VW it's improved the motor oil lubrication will increase there is no more air in the crankcase very little no blowback from Air once you put a check valve in the motor on the air breeder the gravity of oil return increase the gravity of oil lubrication increase also a lot of cars carry the system
I just bought a VW Trike it have a full automatic transmission I do not know what year it is it is not a semi-automatic I got the trike 2 days ago I always wanted one never had the time to build it was too hard to put a torch on my Super Beetle I will not destroy my Super Beetle but I'm really excited to re-do the trike bring it to state-of-the-art I will put fuel injection system and so on into it most important I do a lot of City Driving in New York City I want to increase the sump size anyway I watch your video excellent job on explanation Jeezy Peezy thanks man looking forward to watch the next video
I have just built the same motor for my sc splity.
Hope you like it as much as I like mine.
@@TheEZGZ so far its only done 100 miles but I do have a bog at the start of second gear I can get rid of????
It's ether spark timing or fuel. Every engine is different.
What kind of Carburetor and how it is set up makes a difference as well. Don't forget heat in the intake is good.
@@TheEZGZ Im running a german 34 pict carburetor. Will double check the timing again.
Ez, do you have a flywheel for this 1200,40hp, non oring. Even if it 130 gear, 200mm. I need one. Would you like to sell it. Let me know
Sorry! I got rid of a lot of stuff when I moved here. I'm still looking for things I thought I had.
You are confusing people by comparing the 1300 case to the 1500 case. The oil port sizes are larger in the later model cases, especially in the as21 and as41 cases.
I have in fact mentioned that several times during this recent Single Port build series. If you just jump into the middle you would probably find a lot of things left out or confusing.
Hey ezgz Mods !!.
Mat.
Just costs a little more to go first class. Pay now or “pay for it later” 😁
Boy oh Boy ain't that the truth. How fast can you afford to go..... is another old saying.
Don’t beat yourself up about getting things done, remember you retired now. Pace yourself. 🤔
I hear you. I am actually wondering if having a girlfriend is worth it. I don't hardly have time for myself and my channel like I used too.
Greg, it’s worth it. Relationship are much more important than stuff anyway. Mary is a keeper don’t let her go!