FYI when you do this.....you should really take a close look at the new pump compared to the old to make sure it is not deeper than the old one. I see a flat cam in there and you might have issues with the bolts rubbing the backside of the pump. Sometimes you need to clearance the pump or you risk sheering the cam bolts.
I never like the idea of running bolts into soft alloy but it looks like that's the way CB built the pump cover. Clever idea these maxi pumps. No need to machine the case to get full flow filtering and oil cooling.
No idea what I was thinking when I did this. I look back and tell myself, “wow.” 😂 Exactly why I got it, but will do it right machining the case in the next builds.
Could you please make a parts list to add this pump to the motor? I have the pump, but don’t know what fittings to use or how many, how much hose I will need or what kind, what oil filter base to use & the best place to mount the filter base. Thanks so much in advance!
Hi, I used 3/8 NPT fittings to a push lock end on a 1/2 hose. The remote oil filter also had 3/8 NPT fittings to 1/2 push locks. That’s it, I would buy 2 feet of hose and cut to length. You can find inexpensive fittings on Amazon. The remote oil filter you can find at any VW shop or online. If you need links to any of these things let me know.
Yes it can be connected to a remote oil filter, remote oil cooler, and or both. Here’s an updated video with an oil cooler. ruclips.net/video/c_hDaztymgA/видео.html
depends on the case. because sometimes it really flows better with the case machined for full flow. Some of the oil ports going upward are smaller and that is why you want the case machined. plus you really need to see the clearance between the cam and pump. often there is a rub issue with a flat cam.(not dished)
I love the cam, it’s ideal for a big engine, and not my 1600 lol. power band is about 3k to 6k rpm’s. You can also get a custom grind if you’re interested.
so this is an oil pump, you can plumb hoses to it and add an external oil cooler if you want to. I just run a remote oil filter with it. my stock oil filter runs fine with my turbo set up and I don’t need an external cooler.
Sorry@@frankschwartz7405, I had to re-read the question. I was thinking type 1 😅. The fan might be in the way of this oil pump. Since you took off the bar you might still have to do a lot of fabrication in that area to install it.
Had a shop recommend one of these. The case is overpressured, shitty oily mess. Only went from 1600 to 1700 cc I cant understand why they thought Id need that pump. And it doesnt even go to an aux cooler but a filter instead, im constantly worried about oil lines now, FN great!!
@EmmettRacing I went against my bettervjudgement for sure. I didn't need any of it. Classic case if its not broke don't fix it. Germans figured it out way back! All good, saving up to put a real motor and trans setup now.
Those are the type 3 cool tins. Check them out: aapistons.com/products/black-type-3-style-super-cool-tin?variant=32541242819¤cy=USD&cmp_id=204697570&adg_id=16306239610&kwd=&device=m&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp5Xs_Leg8QIVLx6tBh0LAggOEAQYASABEgKS5PD_BwE
Cylinder Cool Tins, For Type 1 & 3 VW, Black PR, Compatible with Dune Buggy www.amazon.com/dp/B003LIUVYI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BEFS7219F83NVWYFQ4VE
As long as the lobe separation angle is wide enough to keep boost in from going out of the exhaust durning over lap you can use any cam. I’m currently using a STS turbo from Holley. The smallest T3/T4 they have.
I just looked up the C35. It’s similar to an Engle 110. Has a quite a bit of overlap 110 or 112 love center would be ideal for turbo use. If you’re building a 1600 or any other engine you’ll lose low end torque with the C35 but have a lot more power in higher rpm’s to 5krpm and with the turbo I don’t see why you could go to 5500 to 6000rpm easy but it will fall flat after 5k without boost. I’m not a cam expert just speaking from experience with my engine. You can absolutely run it and report back to us with your results. 🤙🏼
@@EmmettRacing this is gonna be a street 1600 with stage 1 aa heads balenced rotating assembly with original 58 trans🤣 I just want some ponys for the mountains hoping the Trans hangs in there it was just rebuilt
😂 sounds good as long as you keep those rpm’s up with the C35. Look into a Benco turbo box if you blow this transmission up. That’s what I got after I blew the stock 65 transmission. I have a couple videos of it on the channel.
I did not clearance the cam since I still had the engine installed. Ideally you want to check clearance when assembling the engine. I have not had any issues with it and it’s running strong.
@@EmmettRacing awesome. Thanks man I appreciate the responses. I was told I need to “adjust the gear in the new pump” but this is my first time changing an oil pump. Any idea what the would be in reference to?
@@aaronorens9173 No problem!! 🤙🏼 I actually do not know in what that’s referenced to. But I do know is that when you pull your old pump inspect what cam gear you have. The early cam gear has 3 bolts/rivets and the late cam gear has 4 bolts/rivets. Early is before 1971 and late is 1971 and up. This is good to check before you order and that’s all you need to do.
@@mathewboyd3746 jeeez I did not see this comment. Sorry for the late reply. Yes it’s a 40 horse case that’s been rebuilt to a 1600 and built for boost.
Watching you hammer that pump into the bore made me cringe. You kept hammering the wrong side HARD when it had already bound up, that was causing damage to both surfaces and stressing your case. Ouch.
I would have rather gone with studs as well. These Maxi In & Out pumps are too big for the factory studs and that’s why they come with supplied bolts. I like it, cleaner look, and they’re still holding strong to this day.
From my experience it works the same, I still have this on my current engine, and have a tapped case on my other engine. No issues what so ever, I only did this because I did not tap the case when I had this engine built.
That is required for actual full flow if you’re using a standard oil pump. This is not required for the Maxi In & Out Full Flow Oil Pump from CB Performance. This pump was designed to be used as full flow so no need to install a plug. Here’s the link to this pump if you need more info: www.cbperformance.com/product-p/maxi26ffearly.htm
Use an impact gun at your own risk 😉
FYI when you do this.....you should really take a close look at the new pump compared to the old to make sure it is not deeper than the old one. I see a flat cam in there and you might have issues with the bolts rubbing the backside of the pump. Sometimes you need to clearance the pump or you risk sheering the cam bolts.
Thanks for the vid.
You’re welcome, just don’t use an impact like I did. 🤣🤣
What you dont put grease on the gears to prime the pump ?????
no, just oil.
I never like the idea of running bolts into soft alloy but it looks like that's the way CB built the pump cover.
Clever idea these maxi pumps. No need to machine the case to get full flow filtering and oil cooling.
No idea what I was thinking when I did this. I look back and tell myself, “wow.” 😂
Exactly why I got it, but will do it right machining the case in the next builds.
I used the same pump! I bought it before I bought the new full flow case 😂
VWJAWBREAKER it’s a way better alternative when you forget to full flow the case 😅 not the first time I’ve forgot to get it done 😂
Could you please make a parts list to add this pump to the motor? I have the pump, but don’t know what fittings to use or how many, how much hose I will need or what kind, what oil filter base to use & the best place to mount the filter base. Thanks so much in advance!
Hi, I used 3/8 NPT fittings to a push lock end on a 1/2 hose. The remote oil filter also had 3/8 NPT fittings to 1/2 push locks. That’s it, I would buy 2 feet of hose and cut to length. You can find inexpensive fittings on Amazon. The remote oil filter you can find at any VW shop or online. If you need links to any of these things let me know.
@@EmmettRacing ok thanks! Do you have any issues with oil leaks using the push lock hose instead of the braided hose with the AN ends?
No issues at all! I recommend the push locks!
Is there a specific port on a oil filter hookup the out/in should be hooked to?
Yes it can be connected to a remote oil filter, remote oil cooler, and or both. Here’s an updated video with an oil cooler. ruclips.net/video/c_hDaztymgA/видео.html
What impact wrench is that? I think I need one.
Michael Morrissey it’s a Milwaukee 1/4 drive impact. This job can be done with just hand tools if needed, good luck!
Is it better than a regular full flow system??
Shawn Smith yeah it is if you want to add an oil filter to your engine.
depends on the case. because sometimes it really flows better with the case machined for full flow. Some of the oil ports going upward are smaller and that is why you want the case machined. plus you really need to see the clearance between the cam and pump. often there is a rub issue with a flat cam.(not dished)
How have you found the Engle TCS-10 cam? My turboed 1915cc was running a Scat C25 and I'm interested in how the Engle works in the real world. Cheers
I love the cam, it’s ideal for a big engine, and not my 1600 lol.
power band is about 3k to 6k rpm’s. You can also get a custom grind if you’re interested.
one question did the cam bolts hit the backside of your pump ?
gilbert sanchez that’s a good question! I actually measured it with a micrometer and it ended being the same as my old pump.
Will this fit behind the fan housing of a Type-3?
so this is an oil pump, you can plumb hoses to it and add an external oil cooler if you want to. I just run a remote oil filter with it. my stock oil filter runs fine with my turbo set up and I don’t need an external cooler.
@@EmmettRacing Yes, the oil pump.
I'm asking if it will fit on a Type-3 which has the fan bolted on the crank.
I'm not using the motor mount bar.
Sorry@@frankschwartz7405, I had to re-read the question. I was thinking type 1 😅. The fan might be in the way of this oil pump. Since you took off the bar you might still have to do a lot of fabrication in that area to install it.
Had a shop recommend one of these. The case is overpressured, shitty oily mess. Only went from 1600 to 1700 cc I cant understand why they thought Id need that pump. And it doesnt even go to an aux cooler but a filter instead, im constantly worried about oil lines now, FN great!!
Sorry to hear you’re having issues. A full flow pump is a good way to ensure your oil is clean and adding a cooler but it depends on your setup.
@EmmettRacing I went against my bettervjudgement for sure. I didn't need any of it. Classic case if its not broke don't fix it. Germans figured it out way back! All good, saving up to put a real motor and trans setup now.
if you are taking the time and trouble to install this oil flow plate it would be much wiser to use AN-08 fittings rather than hose clamps.
Listen @6:00 I mention that I’m going to install AN fittings. 🤙🏼
@@EmmettRacing Nice!
Did you have to modify the engine pulley breast plate tin once the full flow pump was installed?
No modifications to the engine pulley tin.
The tin goes on stock. 🤙🏼
WHERE CAN I FIND THIS OIL EXTRA OIL FILTER FOR VW
cbperformance.com
@@EmmettRacing thank you very nice video very interesting patent
Nice Job broo !!
Thank you!
Where did you get those under sided tins for the cylinders?
Those are the type 3 cool tins. Check them out: aapistons.com/products/black-type-3-style-super-cool-tin?variant=32541242819¤cy=USD&cmp_id=204697570&adg_id=16306239610&kwd=&device=m&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp5Xs_Leg8QIVLx6tBh0LAggOEAQYASABEgKS5PD_BwE
www.jbugs.com/product/8877.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp5Xs_Leg8QIVLx6tBh0LAggOEAQYAiABEgKtXPD_BwE
Cylinder Cool Tins, For Type 1 & 3 VW, Black PR, Compatible with Dune Buggy www.amazon.com/dp/B003LIUVYI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BEFS7219F83NVWYFQ4VE
Do you think you could run an external cooler using this pump rather than tapping the case ?
Absolutely! You can set up an oil cooler with this pump.
Think the c25 scat cam will work good with boost? And what turbo do you plan on running with this? Thanks
As long as the lobe separation angle is wide enough to keep boost in from going out of the exhaust durning over lap you can use any cam.
I’m currently using a STS turbo from Holley. The smallest T3/T4 they have.
I just looked up the C35. It’s similar to an Engle 110. Has a quite a bit of overlap 110 or 112 love center would be ideal for turbo use.
If you’re building a 1600 or any other engine you’ll lose low end torque with the C35 but have a lot more power in higher rpm’s to 5krpm and with the turbo I don’t see why you could go to 5500 to 6000rpm easy but it will fall flat after 5k without boost.
I’m not a cam expert just speaking from experience with my engine. You can absolutely run it and report back to us with your results. 🤙🏼
@@EmmettRacing this is gonna be a street 1600 with stage 1 aa heads balenced rotating assembly with original 58 trans🤣 I just want some ponys for the mountains hoping the Trans hangs in there it was just rebuilt
😂 sounds good as long as you keep those rpm’s up with the C35.
Look into a Benco turbo box if you blow this transmission up. That’s what I got after I blew the stock 65 transmission. I have a couple videos of it on the channel.
@@EmmettRacing swingarm?
Did you have to clearance the back of the pump to fit and not hit the cam?
I did not clearance the cam since I still had the engine installed. Ideally you want to check clearance when assembling the engine. I have not had any issues with it and it’s running strong.
@@EmmettRacing Maybe I missed it, but is this a maxi 30?
@@aaronorens9173 this is the Maxi 26 but the Maxi 30 is the same installation.
@@EmmettRacing awesome. Thanks man I appreciate the responses. I was told I need to “adjust the gear in the new pump” but this is my first time changing an oil pump. Any idea what the would be in reference to?
@@aaronorens9173 No problem!! 🤙🏼
I actually do not know in what that’s referenced to. But I do know is that when you pull your old pump inspect what cam gear you have. The early cam gear has 3 bolts/rivets and the late cam gear has 4 bolts/rivets. Early is before 1971 and late is 1971 and up. This is good to check before you order and that’s all you need to do.
How's the oil pressure after installation? Thanks in advance.
Oil is about 40psi on a cold start and between 25-30psi when it’s warmed up. Readings are from a VDO gauge.
Stock is rock!!
Absolutely, nothing beats stock. But or what I did with the engine it was necessary.
At 3.34 you ripped the bottom right of the gasket. You should have replaced it rather than leave it on.. it will cause u probs down the road.
Good catch! I didn’t notice the tear in the gasket. So far I’ve had no problems with oil leaking from the engine.
Using an impact wrench is allways on your own risk!! ;-)
Always use a impact at your own risk, I messed up and used universal joint socket but kept it going lol
How old is that engine case - looks like an old single oil releif case?
@@mathewboyd3746 jeeez I did not see this comment. Sorry for the late reply.
Yes it’s a 40 horse case that’s been rebuilt to a 1600 and built for boost.
Watching you hammer that pump into the bore made me cringe. You kept hammering the wrong side HARD when it had already bound up, that was causing damage to both surfaces and stressing your case. Ouch.
yea I loosen the surrounding case bolts......They are almost a press fit.
Yeah what they said.
I'd rather go with studs that using bolts.
I would have rather gone with studs as well. These Maxi In & Out pumps are too big for the factory studs and that’s why they come with supplied bolts. I like it, cleaner look, and they’re still holding strong to this day.
You left out so much !
Is this better or worse than tapping the case?
From my experience it works the same, I still have this on my current engine, and have a tapped case on my other engine. No issues what so ever, I only did this because I did not tap the case when I had this engine built.
I’ve seen people putting a plug on the top left hole of the pump is that required for the pump to flow out of the case ?
That is required for actual full flow if you’re using a standard oil pump. This is not required for the Maxi In & Out Full Flow Oil Pump from CB Performance. This pump was designed to be used as full flow so no need to install a plug. Here’s the link to this pump if you need more info: www.cbperformance.com/product-p/maxi26ffearly.htm
@@EmmettRacing no I already have it lol and installed was confused if I did it wrong lol
@@ursavior6015 lol ok. You should be good. How’s your oil pressure looking? Did you get the 26mm or the 30mm?
I got the 26mm still don’t quite have the engine in the car should be tomorrow
@@ursavior6015 nice! You’ll be happy with that oil pump, been running my engine hard and now I’m going to add an external cooler soon.