Great video, I have a 1904cc with C35 cam and a 74mm crank, GTV-2 heads and stock rockers with Scat swivel ball tappets and stock length steel pushrods. Is it okay to just use shims? My geometry looks good with four 0.030 shims or should I shorten the pushrods and use less shims?
Shims are a typically a necessity when swapping to swivel feet adjusters and combined with the additional engine width from the stroker crank shaft, you might have gotten lucky using stock pushrods. If you're getting proper adjustment out of the screws and the geometry is good, then you should be good to go!
Thanks for sharing these informations!! I have a channel on RUclips as well and I was not sure how to cut the rods and install the ends (I thought it was necessary to heat to install, but it is not). Congratulations for the video!
We mocked everything up starting with deck height and compression on cylinder 3 as it is prone to running hotter than the rest of the cylinders. As we had already set everything up to film it, it made sense to continue the build on the same cylinder from there til the end.
Do the chromoly push rods make more noise when the engine's hot ?being they expand different than the aluminum? I'm building a otherwise stock 1600 bottom end with slip in 88 thick wall Pistons IAP outlaw 90.5 heads with 40 mm intakes 35.5 exhaust stainless steel valves single rev springs and don't know what push rods to pick to use with the IAP 1:4:1 ratio rockers oh yeah I'm going to be running dual kadrones& and a kultek black oo9 electronic dizzy and thick 409 Taylor ignition wires any info on what push rods to use would be great 🤠
When set up correctly, chromoly pushrods are just as quiet (or noisy as it is a solid lift engine) as aluminum. I run chromoly pushrods exclusively. You'll find other builders that prefer aluminum, it just comes down to person preference. Regardless, for higher revving engines with heavier valves and stiffer springs, thickwall aluminum or chromoly pushrods are a must. At a certain point though, the strength of aluminum vs the diameter can cause issues with tube clearance, especially with high lift cams and valve trains so chromoly pushrods are typically preferred.
Very nice
very well done i'm bookmarking this one, Thanks!
Great video, I have a 1904cc with C35 cam and a 74mm crank, GTV-2 heads and stock rockers with Scat swivel ball tappets and stock length steel pushrods. Is it okay to just use shims? My geometry looks good with four 0.030 shims or should I shorten the pushrods and use less shims?
Shims are a typically a necessity when swapping to swivel feet adjusters and combined with the additional engine width from the stroker crank shaft, you might have gotten lucky using stock pushrods. If you're getting proper adjustment out of the screws and the geometry is good, then you should be good to go!
Lots of great information thank you for taking the time to make these videos
Great info! Can't wait to start on my engine.
Thanks for sharing these informations!! I have a channel on RUclips as well and I was not sure how to cut the rods and install the ends (I thought it was necessary to heat to install, but it is not). Congratulations for the video!
Another great video Sam! Thank you!
My pleasure CT!
I’m assuming your starting this process at cylinder 3 also for filming purposes
We mocked everything up starting with deck height and compression on cylinder 3 as it is prone to running hotter than the rest of the cylinders. As we had already set everything up to film it, it made sense to continue the build on the same cylinder from there til the end.
What cam is in this engine???? C25?
No, it's just a stock VW cam. We used the 1.4 rockers to get a little more performance out of it.
Do the chromoly push rods make more noise when the engine's hot ?being they expand different than the aluminum? I'm building a otherwise stock 1600 bottom end with slip in 88 thick wall Pistons IAP outlaw 90.5 heads with 40 mm intakes 35.5 exhaust stainless steel valves single rev springs and don't know what push rods to pick to use with the IAP 1:4:1 ratio rockers oh yeah I'm going to be running dual kadrones& and a kultek black oo9 electronic dizzy and thick 409 Taylor ignition wires any info on what push rods to use would be great 🤠
When set up correctly, chromoly pushrods are just as quiet (or noisy as it is a solid lift engine) as aluminum. I run chromoly pushrods exclusively. You'll find other builders that prefer aluminum, it just comes down to person preference. Regardless, for higher revving engines with heavier valves and stiffer springs, thickwall aluminum or chromoly pushrods are a must. At a certain point though, the strength of aluminum vs the diameter can cause issues with tube clearance, especially with high lift cams and valve trains so chromoly pushrods are typically preferred.
@@Sam_Mebane sweet ! thanks
Are the springs stock or single high rev?
Single, high rev in those heads.
@@Sam_Mebane thank you. These are great tech videos you create.
I'm guess I'm old school I prefer the swivel feet.
To each their own. With these rockers, there is no alternative. I prefer the original, solid style screw stud adjusters myself.
OMG I though these were simple motor!
In stock form, absolutely. When you start modifying things, like any other engine, time must be taken to make sure everything works as it should!
So this is for after market only right? Not needed with stock fitment?
@@jpbug correct, if you have stock rocker assemblies this process is not necessary.