The boiling point of the oil is 572F or 300C, as opposed to 212F or 100C for water. I assume the concern is that the water will boil-off before the gear is heated through.
I see on the video series that the crank and flywheel have eight dowel pins. My 71 has the wrong engine in it. It only has four dowel pins. The engine number starts with a 72 in the stamped number. Research tells me this is a 64 model 1200cc engine. Does that sound right? Let me tell you, it sucks to find out I have a smaller engine than what I was led to believe! And I don’t know if a 1200 is worth rebuilding. It is a good runner though.
Would any damage occur if you were to place the crank shaft in a fridge or freezer before putting the heated up gears on it? Might take less time, just a thought.
No, and often times builders will do both, putting the crank in a deep freeze and the gear on a hot plate (which works way quicker than a camp stove and oil).
Most VW engine builders go by feel. Sure, if we we're building a high revving, turbo charged engine, we'd spend a lot more time checking minute tolerances, we'd have the entire rotating assembly balanced, etc. There is no stopping the amount of time, money and attention to detail you COULD throw into building an engine. At the end of the day though, for most of the guys building in their garage or shops, it isn't worthwhile and they trust their experience and "feel" for what they are doing.
I absolutely dont agree with being able to develop a feel for bearing clearance. Ive been building engines since the 70s and would never assemble a engine without doing a simple bearing measurement...
I am rebuilding my 71 super now and I want to follow this same set up. Very new to this so apologize for the ignorant question, but what do I tell the machine shop I need done? I know you mention line boring. If I change out my crank to the 74mm version you show in the video, what do I ask for when contact the machine shop? Will they need to have the crank before they can do the work?
A VW familiar machine shop will be able to inspect the case and align bore it as needed and will be able to machine the thrust surface as needed. If you’re using all the same parts we did in our video we would recommend having the case clearanced for the larger crankshaft as opposed to clearancing the rod bolts like we did. Sure, our engine runs well but there is a better way to do it, and that is clearancing the case. We only clearanced the rods to show it can be done (and is common practice) for those without access to a machine shop.
@@JBugsVWParts Would the machine shop need to have the new crank in hand to do the job? Also what set of cylinder heads to you put on this engine? I would like to get the most performance out of the current block
@@blakemarciszewski4744 sorry for the delay. The quickest way to get a hold of us is through our website as we don't get notifications from RUclips. Like before, a shop familiar with VW engines will know where to clearance, otherwise we'd recommend having the case, cranks, rods, and pistons that you'll be using. We installed EMPI GTV-2 98-1334-B cylinder heads. You can click "SHOW MORE" on any of our videos to see links to all the parts we're using.
Can forged I-beams be used with a turbo or would we need to use H-beam rods...and if so...do H-beam rods have anything specific that needs to be done that's different from I-beam rods
A quality set of I-beam rods is going to be equivalent to most H-beam rods but for higher torque, higher boost or high RPM applications, the H-beam would be preferred. Installing either rod is the same. For longer rod or stroked cranks, rod to case, piston, cylinder and in some engines, the cam, clearances should be checked and re-checked during mock up and assembly.
Always clearance to block for Rod bolts it won't weaken the case and it's a must may I say it again absolutely a must to have the rotating assembly bounce with pressure plate and have the rods and pistons balance very important for VW engines since the case is made of magnesium even if you have aluminum case you don't need the vibration always install good oil pump and run a good oil cooler with a full flow oil system the filter an attic cooler increase is the oil capacity which makes the engine run cooler and long-term I built a lot of VW Motors
I have aftermarket H-beams ARP 2000s with a 69mm counterweighted crank that will soon have a procharger...the rods purchased show to torque to 26...but your video shows 38...what would you suggest...is 38 too much.
Hello friend , I want to know if I have to perform dynamic balancing to the following products that you buy new in your online store are the following: AA Performance Products 4340 Forged Counterweighted Crankshaft Chevy Journal (Size 76mm) Brand: AA Performance , Manufacturer Part Number: 003 4376C, and: FLYWHEEL LIGHTENED 8 DOWEL, dune buggy vw bug, OEM Part Number 311105273HP, can you help me? to know if they are already balanced or do I have to balance them together?
The crank and flywheel are balanced, but mass produced so there will always be variances. The pistons are not. If you have the means, having the rotating assembly balanced together is ideal.
Whoa, a 10 minute jbugs video, we must have had good behavior
Help was really helped for karmann Ghia keep up the video it help to see how it done 🤗
put your crank in dry ice and your timing and distributor gears in the oven at 200 degrees.
That is another way it could be done but not everyone has easy access to dry ice.
Another great video guys!
very interesting, why vegetable oil and not water? would you use vegetable oil on the crank belt pulley too?
Not sure why oil vs water, but there is no need to heat up the crank pulley.
The boiling point of the oil is 572F or 300C, as opposed to 212F or 100C for water. I assume the concern is that the water will boil-off before the gear is heated through.
I see on the video series that the crank and flywheel have eight dowel pins. My 71 has the wrong engine in it. It only has four dowel pins. The engine number starts with a 72 in the stamped number. Research tells me this is a 64 model 1200cc engine. Does that sound right? Let me tell you, it sucks to find out I have a smaller engine than what I was led to believe! And I don’t know if a 1200 is worth rebuilding. It is a good runner though.
We didn't use a stock crankshaft, that's why ours is 8 doweled. A "7" series engine would be a 1200cc 40 horse engine, yes.
Would any damage occur if you were to place the crank shaft in a fridge or freezer before putting the heated up gears on it? Might take less time, just a thought.
No, and often times builders will do both, putting the crank in a deep freeze and the gear on a hot plate (which works way quicker than a camp stove and oil).
What is the permissible clearance for the mains
www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/1971withoutguesswork/8_9.jpg
All depends on which particular clearancing you're referring to but that link should cover all aspects.
I didnt see any rod or main bearing clearance checks and if you use plasti gauge?
Most VW engine builders go by feel. Sure, if we we're building a high revving, turbo charged engine, we'd spend a lot more time checking minute tolerances, we'd have the entire rotating assembly balanced, etc. There is no stopping the amount of time, money and attention to detail you COULD throw into building an engine. At the end of the day though, for most of the guys building in their garage or shops, it isn't worthwhile and they trust their experience and "feel" for what they are doing.
I absolutely dont agree with being able to develop a feel for bearing clearance. Ive been building engines since the 70s and would never assemble a engine without doing a simple bearing measurement...
Just wondering as to why the rod bearing tangs are all at the down position ? Is this for load purposes ? Great video BTW!
That would make sense but we aren't certain why VW designed them that way.
I am rebuilding my 71 super now and I want to follow this same set up. Very new to this so apologize for the ignorant question, but what do I tell the machine shop I need done? I know you mention line boring. If I change out my crank to the 74mm version you show in the video, what do I ask for when contact the machine shop? Will they need to have the crank before they can do the work?
A VW familiar machine shop will be able to inspect the case and align bore it as needed and will be able to machine the thrust surface as needed. If you’re using all the same parts we did in our video we would recommend having the case clearanced for the larger crankshaft as opposed to clearancing the rod bolts like we did. Sure, our engine runs well but there is a better way to do it, and that is clearancing the case. We only clearanced the rods to show it can be done (and is common practice) for those without access to a machine shop.
@@JBugsVWParts Would the machine shop need to have the new crank in hand to do the job? Also what set of cylinder heads to you put on this engine? I would like to get the most performance out of the current block
@@blakemarciszewski4744 sorry for the delay. The quickest way to get a hold of us is through our website as we don't get notifications from RUclips. Like before, a shop familiar with VW engines will know where to clearance, otherwise we'd recommend having the case, cranks, rods, and pistons that you'll be using. We installed EMPI GTV-2 98-1334-B cylinder heads.
You can click "SHOW MORE" on any of our videos to see links to all the parts we're using.
Can forged I-beams be used with a turbo or would we need to use H-beam rods...and if so...do H-beam rods have anything specific that needs to be done that's different from I-beam rods
A quality set of I-beam rods is going to be equivalent to most H-beam rods but for higher torque, higher boost or high RPM applications, the H-beam would be preferred. Installing either rod is the same. For longer rod or stroked cranks, rod to case, piston, cylinder and in some engines, the cam, clearances should be checked and re-checked during mock up and assembly.
Always clearance to block for Rod bolts it won't weaken the case and it's a must may I say it again absolutely a must to have the rotating assembly bounce with pressure plate and have the rods and pistons balance very important for VW engines since the case is made of magnesium even if you have aluminum case you don't need the vibration always install good oil pump and run a good oil cooler with a full flow oil system the filter an attic cooler increase is the oil capacity which makes the engine run cooler and long-term I built a lot of VW Motors
I have aftermarket H-beams ARP 2000s with a 69mm counterweighted crank that will soon have a procharger...the rods purchased show to torque to 26...but your video shows 38...what would you suggest...is 38 too much.
Every rod manufacturer will have their recommended specs, we advise following their torque specs.
Hello friend , I want to know if I have to perform dynamic balancing to the following products that you buy new in your online store are the following: AA Performance Products 4340 Forged Counterweighted Crankshaft Chevy Journal (Size 76mm) Brand: AA Performance , Manufacturer Part Number: 003 4376C, and: FLYWHEEL LIGHTENED 8 DOWEL, dune buggy vw bug, OEM Part Number 311105273HP, can you help me? to know if they are already balanced or do I have to balance them together?
The crank and flywheel are balanced, but mass produced so there will always be variances. The pistons are not. If you have the means, having the rotating assembly balanced together is ideal.
Great video but mate you speak too fast and it's hard to understand you. Slow down man
Click on the gear at the bottom right and change the playback speed to whatever is easiest for you to follow.
@@Sam_Mebane cheers