That one simple item of making sure the rocker stud is backed up high enough above what ever shim your using , so the rocker shaft base is properly located is priceless information. Good stuff EZ . Great video on a rainy NW morning.
@@TheEZGZmay I ask where you got your stainless steel valves and shims and other VW parts. I rebuild a 1600 CC that is in a small light sport experimental airplane that I have. The original builder over compressed the engine. It was certified for 100 to 130 LL av gas. He lost a rear piston and valves obviously to pre ignition. He did a crappy job patching it up. I have the logs and notes the condition inspector wouldn't sign off in the repairs thank heavens. It's been in storage since the 1980ties. Has very low engine hours. The German made bottom end is in excellent condition. I want to upgrade the valves I had the heads rebuilt by a very good local engine machinist. Nonetheless, Im a little bit nervous about it getting pre ignition knocking an losing a cylinder in flight. I matched the Pistons rods pins Weghed an balanced them. But I want to reduce the compression ratio. . To much compression and heat for my Comfort. I made my own rocker shims but would feel better with factory mades. I want to put stainless steel valves in it. An reduce the compression for safety sake . Your thoughts are appreciated.
G'day Mr EZGZ, Kevin here from Australia. A lot of stuff to take in. But one thing i have to say is after watching this video you've got your mojo back man. Stay safe and healthy ✌ Peace
nice work! rocker arm geometry is one of my enjoyable parts of engine building. You can really see the time and patience pay off when you hit the sweet spot. Also, valve keeper wear can be reduced if you stone down the edges of the keepers, this makes them a snug fit around the valve, most are a sloppy fit causing wear to the valve grooves. Folks will tell you they need to be sloppy to allow the valve to rotate....nice idea in theory but valve rotation does not really happen, ever seen a burnt out valve and the seat burnt in exactly the same place as the burnt valve...proves they don't rotate as we all think they do. So better to stone edges of the keepers down to get a nice snug fit and reduce valve groove wear....try it sometime. Great vid.
I beg to differ. You ain't going to stone down chrome moly race retainers. They come made with a gap to be sure and grip tightly. The race retainers are harder than the stem groove area and the much higher spring pressure and RPM is what wears out the valves. I have ground down stock keepers for a tight fit but lately I've found the factory new what they were doing by designing a a fit that would allow the valve to turn. That's the purpose of setting the tip of the stock adjuster off center. I think when you see the dual burn at valve and seat it's because the head is so used up it gets caught and won't rotate which causes a worse hot spot and total failure occurs. VW had a lot of valve failure problems in the 1200 sp engines and they made several changes to the valve assembly., All poppet valve engines through the 1950's had valve failure issues. The valve manufactures really got there act together in the mid 60's. There is a lot of detail about this in the hot rod book I showed at the bigging. It's an interesting read. Thanks for you comment and view. I certainly agree it can't hurt to stone the edges on any machine edges. They could put them in a tumbler like a rock polisher and charge extra for smoothing out the product. I guess thats why they added a better filter on the type 4 engines.
@@TheEZGZ I believe the failures were seen on the single groove valve's, the triple groove sorted the problem (but it didnt stop heads breaking off stems ) Everyone has a different 'flavour & style' of building these great little engines. I have the VW hot rod book but my copy has a yellow cover showing a drag race engine with a big red FOUR TUNED exhaust system fitted? Goog tip with the head bolt nuts being used for rocker studs, we may adopt that idea onto the race car.
Super excited you are back. I built my 2110 from all new parts/pieces a few years ago thanks to all your videos. You have no idea how much you've helped myself and others. Thank you and keep 'em coming. :)
Thanks 👍 I feel like I'm a newbie. I learn stuff durring every build and every failure. Keep the radio off and listen to your engine instead. It's always talking to me.
Welcome back buddy! Sure missed you! Thanks for coming back and educating us!!! Love you man... Another interesting thing I learned is to have the “needle” of your dial caliper parallel with your valve stem (can see the valve stem through the exhaust port) to get a more accurate lift number. Just a bit off makes quite a difference in your total lift measurement. I measured anywhere from .480-.510 just by making minor adjustments!!😳
Great video man, I built my 2276 12 years ago and have kinda forgotten all of this stuff I did and will shortly be doing it again, it needs a refresh, thanks for reminding me, you’re doing great things for us. Thankyou!
Thanks for Sharing a lot of great information. I wish I knew all that and had the time to do it for myself. Good to see you and I hope you’re doing well and enjoying . Thanks for sharing and I will see you soon. BigW:-)
Yes sir bout time ya got back in front of the camera, 👍🏻looks like all's good with ya buddy ! You've been a Big help with my 1929cc stroker build over the last year. Thanks keeping it real 👍🏻 And keep them lil bloopers at the end, LMBO !!! Appreciate ya EZGZ ✌🏻🇺🇸💪🏻
good job on showing us the deal on rocker arm geometry I was not sure about this. most of my stuff has been stock, but I watch for this in the future even on stock engines. thank you
Bill Fisher's book inspired me in high school! That info endures! On my 1968cc singleport build I ported my heads according to the flow bench data in that book.
I'll bet your car ran great after that. It's just plain physics and those figured out how to make that single port stuff fly down the track. I think the whole entire automotive industry were making big improvements in the 60's. Mostly due to the higher quality fuel. To bad is polluted the environment. I'm glad you and I were there to enjoy it.
We do this sometimes By eye.....But only when its close to stock. For instance. when I build a engine I like going 1904 or 1800 Mainly because they are easy counterweighted engines. when using short rods 5.325. and stock valve train and simple camshaft upgrade like W100 the stock pushrod length usually comes out fine when you step cut the head for extra CC other than that combo. The things that really change that change things are Valves and valve train upgrades. For instance if your going with stainless exhaust now you need lash caps or elephant adjusters. this ads length and requires spacers or ratio rockers.....Now you probably need cut to fit pushrods. of if you go with. stock rods and that combo. then you have large spacers on the heads or under the cylinders. all this makes the geometry way off. For the most part all you need to do is look at the top and bottom of the lift and figure where the middle is then look at where the rocker hits the valve. Watch the rocker from where it starts to when it bottoms out and see how the rocker slides on the valve and make sure it is near even top to bottom. We did the 1800 this way and I will do it again in a future video. We didnt film it because we were pressed for time.
Very nice !!! Been awhile since I've been on here. Looks like ur still at it. I had taken a leave from RUclips for about a year. Just way too busy with way too many things. Got laid-off last spring for afew months. Been playing catch up ever since.
Yeah I’m into longevity with the motor but that comes through detail or blue printing. If I ever go to your country I would like to make the effort to visit,I like the details , thanks I like your videos 😊
Thanks for the tips as always EZGZ. My 1600 DP in my bus is finally telling me "that's enough mate". I know the crank is bent, the cam lobes are worn & the split centre crank bearings are worn to their copper base in spots (1 split half is anyway). I didn't have enough money to change everything 5 years ago- I just cleaned everything and put it all back in, including new heads, studs hardware/seals. I have all stock including a new old 3 piece intake manifold with heat risers unblocked. From my experience I've found when holding 50mph (limited head wind) my oil temp stays on 80 degrees . If I push up to 55mph the temp rises to 90 degrees after about 10 minutes but if I drop back to 50mph again the temp goes back to 80 degrees. I don't ever really try for 65mph unless she wants to (down hill:-). I can hold 50mph for hours on end and it stays at 80 degrees (celcius). If I get off the freeway and back onto highways the temp goes back to 65 degrees by the time I pull in the driveway after hours on end of 50mph. I believe this is how it should be when everything is where it should be on a stock 1600 DP. Anyways, I'm thinking about a 1776 with stock crank and heads or just keeping it stock 1600 (1584 or whatever it exactly is). I'm interested in longevity more than any impressive sprints and I'm after long distance- its a camper. Could you point out some things between a stock 1600 DP & a 1776? If building a 1776 could you keep a single 34-pict 3 carb with an oil bath filter? Could the oil bath manage the extra crankcase oil fumes sufficiently or would leaks occur sooner or later? Can you keep the heat exchangers? And is the stock 1600 system sufficient enough to cool a 1776? Would the brake booster vacumn line on the throat of the intake manifold be happy with this arrangement? If 2 x carbs are required do you typically tap into both manifold throats on both heads and run a T piece for the brake booster in order to keep the carbs' air balanced? What is the typical RPM for a stock 1600 DP at 50mph compared with a 1776 with dual carbs, 1.25 ratio, etc? ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ At this point I'm more enclined to just rebuild a 1600 so I don't have to put up with PCV and After market carbs I have no experience with. This is a long comment and so are your videos but the VW engines are detailed pieces and so it all should be!! PS. No expectation for a reply at all and no offence taken either way, all the very best :-)
Early on you stated you don't have a lot of money to spend on parts to rebuild what you have. Don't even think about turning it into a 1776. Bus engine even when driven with care have a hard life. Let me tell you a story. I had a 71 Westy Camper bus. I had a mild 1776 in it. I wanted to go fishing in the Mountains. It would always get hot going up the hill and I would have to pull over and let it cool down. I had a well worn 1600 DP in a sedan that I used for going back and forth to work slogging along in traffic. I decided to swap engines and put that old 1600 in my bus. Went back to my fishing spot and drove right by that place that I usually had to pull over. I actually arrived at my fishing spot sooner and with a happy engine. The sedan had a bit more pep with the 1776. Happy Ending. I would not spend any more time or money on your old engine. I would look for a different engine with less miles that had a easier life. Give it a good cleaning and do some tests on it. Use parts from both engines to make something better than what you have. Make sure you buy a unerversal engine case with holes for your bus mount. They make a adapter that bolts to you oil pump but I have tried that and don't recommend it. Consider going in debt for one of those brand new zero mile long blocks and then transfer over your parts. Buy ounce Cry ounce. If you do a cheap rebuild you will always be fussing with it and worrying about it.
EZGZ --- On the setup of the rocker shaft and the rocker arms over the valve stem ----- does having the rocker arm tip slightly to the right or left of center ( using shaft shims to adjust) of the valve stem make the valve rotate, not much, but just not right on center? I thought I read somewhere that valves rotate? ----------- Really Enjoy the Info You Put Out ---------- Thank You ---- Let me know if you would ---- Rodney
The early engines before 1967 had problems with the exhaust valve heads breaking off so they tried to rotate the valves to make the heat more even. It's not that important on newer heads and the manufacturing of valves improved. The stock rocker shafts used the spring washers to keep the noise down and worked fine on a stock cam and valve springs. If your building a high RPM engine most folks use solid shafts and use shims to take up the space. Side to side on the valve is not as important as having the contact point on center at 1/2 lift. You need a minimum of .004 space on the shaft. Side to side
@@TheEZGZ Thank you for setting that straight ------ I was watching your video on getting Push Rods cut to length, you were using your Dremel to cut the tube to length ---- Do you think a small tubing cutter would work? -- Slightly chamfer the outside edge, then clean the burr off from inside then drive in the tip?
I put scat 1.25 with the ball feet on a 1600 DP. I ended up using no shims and pushrods about 1/4" Shorter. I have an odd problem of the ball in the rocker arm socket acts like a spring! when the pushrod end of the rocker is pressed it feels like a Hydro lifter that is not pumped up. It is the ball inside the socket that is odly acting like a spring. Anyone have any ideas???
Thank you for invest the time to show us how it works, im working in my project, a ´92 hot street that originally used to be FI, then I decided to upgrade and switch to central 44 IDF, stock 1600 and w110 and all the stuff it needs , but i have been involved in problems with my heads, of course I made port job, 40x35.5 SS valves, hard springs and all the chromolly hardware, but when I was adjusting geometry, I noticed that valve stem seals can´t fit with new geometry , so i decided to remove it. The main problem is that when driving, the cyl 1 spark always get wet with oil/gas and engine starts popping, then i change, work a few miles and then problem happens again, of course i will check it as your advice but i want to know your opinion about it, shuld I make head guides job to fit stem seals to inlet valves? or keep without it and re-adjust geometry? Greeting from Mexico city and hope good health to you --- Charly
VW head’s don’t come with valve stem seals. If you’re fouling only #1 cylinder you have other issues. Maybe rings are on piston wrong? Central 44IDF is way to big for 1600 and 110 cam.
@@TheEZGZ thanks for your answer, i aprecciate it, in mexico market, the fuel injected vw cames with stem seals, sound crazy but it is, i´ll re check my valve guides and rings setting, so finally do you recommend to tune the 44 like a 40? or better to increase the cc maybe at least to 1800?
I'm so freakin confused, I've tried everything, shims, shortening th epushrod, lengthening, just gonna go back to stock adjusters bc i got the mark in the dead center when i shortened the pushrod to 10.846 ", went to half lift and it was dead center of the valve @@TheEZGZ
Hi there - I have standard 1600 EMPI cylinder heads and standard cams - I’ve added 60” thickness valve lash caps to top of SS valves (as recommended by Empi). To maintain geometry I have added 60” rocker pad shims .. is this a correct assumption?
Hey EZGZ hope your well. I never knew about any of this but something interesting happened to me. I have fb 044 heads and one of my rocker arm assemblies is stuck. I tried to remove it and it one come off. The other side slipped right off. What could it be? I tried tapping it with a rubber mallet and priori g it off with a screwdriver and it still won’t budge!
Just carefully apply more pressure close to the blocks. I never had one do that but I have had the studs break off. You can buy replacement studs or reuse old ones.
NO! 1.25 will increase the lift. It is more wear and tear on heads that are over worked as it is on a bus. Adding lift increases the potential for higher RPM at the cost of loosing low end torque. Nobody these days makes a decent 1.25 rocker that is as strong as the stock forged VW ones you have. Keep close attention to those 044 heads. There is to much of the valve guide boss removed to support the valve guide. It allows for better air flow but I had a valve guide come loose while driving. It happened real fast. Guide got broken up in the valve seat and peace's went into the cylinder. Beat up the piston and bent the connecting rod. :-(
Thanks for that. I’d love someone to build a great usable 2110 for a westfalia that gets up hills and drives at a nice 65 mph. Saying that mine is going well now since I got rid of the Spanish Weber 40s and put Dell’Ortos on.
When you do your rockers do you get the specified lift? I noticed that i can set one rocker with adj pushrod. No matter what combination of shims or pushrod length to get half lift right. I wont get the specified lift. Then not changing anything ill get more lift on the next? And this isnt using no name parts. Do you check each rocker?
Had to read your question several times. I want to give you a fair answer. In this vid I just did the one because it isn't that big of a cam. I was surprised to see the lift higher than advertised. A few thousands off of advertised is not a big deal what's more important is that at 1/2 lift your on the center of the valve stem. Lift isn't the worry it's avoiding unnecessary side pressure on your valve guides. You get less friction, more RPM and longevity. Ounce you start getting over 1/2 inch (.500) lift. Chit Happens. I started breaking rocker arm studs because in 2 years my springs go weak and I drive my car almost every day. Any kind of ratio rocker set up over 1.25 you better have your stuff together. Less spring pressure is more of a problem than more spring pressure. Not to mention trying to figure out what will work best with your favorite pump gas. We have to do it all manually., The new car fuel injection computers just figure it out as you drive. Just relax and don't expect to nail it on the head. Your doing way more than most folks. Just average it out and look for big errors. Most advertised numbers are to get your money......
@@TheEZGZ yes my cam will be .514 with 1:25 rockers. I can get it to look good at half lift. The rocker lined up with head and adjuster inline with valve but will only get .497 total lift. But your right at some point it is what it is but it can drive you crazy. Also thank you for your tip on the rocker stud to make sure its seated in shaft. I also noticed some shims are not sized right and hang up on them.
Very informative video, thanks! I would like to offer everyone a method I developed in 2015 and published instructions on The Samba. The objective in performing rocker arm geometry is to find the correct length push rod when at the point of TVL/2 by way of adjusting the shims under the rocker arm such that half height results in the valve stem plane being parallel to any other un-pushed stable valve stem. This height adjustment changes the rocker arm pivot point and as such it influences valve function, lift and duration. How is parallel determined? Most will employ the "eyeball" method as viewed from the rocker end but if small bubble levels are used then maximum precision and repeatability can be achieved. One bubble level is placed on any other valve stem with its adjuster screw removed. The other bubble level is affixed (magnet & double tape) to the valve lash adjuster screw. Once the two levels are approximately centered when at half of total valve lift then the push rod length can be measured. Centering the rocker arm contact with the valve stem at half height will minimize valve guide wear and resistance. Follow the path of the rocker contact across the valve stem surface to fully understand.
I just read your right up on this on Samba and It makes the most sense to me for getting it correct. My only question is what size levels did you use. The smallest diameter I can find is 10mm
@@Kelteclover I am very pleased you found and read my procedure and I hope it works well for you. Don't hesitate to contact me with any questions. The 10mm diameter bubble target level is what I used and mounted it to a
@@jamescandelaria4840 So I bought the bubble levels and instead of the magnets I 3D printed caps from TPU so they would be absolutely straight and flat then glued the levels to those. The set up works perfect and sure takes the guesswork out of it. I was able to dial it in perfect but my only concern is the amount of stand shim to get it correct. So here is my set up I'm using CB performance 1.1.1 rockers with elephant foot adjusters. Engle 100 cam and 8.25.1 compression on a 1600 engine. The heads are CB 044 CC and cut to 47cc. The total shim height is .180" which seems extreme. I could probably reduce the stack using lash caps and regular adjusters but I wanted to get your take.
@@Kelteclover Nice work devising another method to use the bubble levels. Yes, surprisingly it could take quite a few more shims than you might think in order to set the geometry correct. There are several contributing variables for this need. Start with deck height which is the distance from the theoretical center of the crankshaft to the cylinder barrel surface. Cases that are re-machined will change the overall height of the head. Sometimes too, when this is not performed correctly, the deck height for one side of the case will not be the same for the other. When this happens the final shim thicknesses will be different for each side. Cylinder heights are quite consistent but measurement will confirm this. Adjacent cylinders should never be different heights. As for the heads, there are influences from machining the combustion chamber size and valve seat work. I think your setup is quite good. Are the intakes ported to maximize flow? When the shim thicknesses increase I have had to back out the rocker stand screws a bit so that the rocker can be bolted onto the stands. I am very pleased you were able to use the geometry setting procedure. Were you able to accurately measure the final push rod length needed? Where have you purchased the custom length push rods? My email address in at the bottom of the procedure for future contact. If you would like to send some photos I will be excited to see you engine build progress. Jimmy
Here is another way to describe the rocker arm geometry process. THE most critical part of this process is to achieve parallelism between the valve stem (or lash cap) surface and the "head". A JBugs video defines the "head" surface as the valve cover surface and the assumption that it will be parallel to the valve stem (or lash cap). This assumption introduces a major flaw that the valve seat and its guide are machined to be perpendicular to valve cover surface. This is not a safe and accurate assumption AND this process implies to compare these two surfaces by visual examination only, another source of measurement error that is not accurate or repeatable. A much more dependable, accurate and repeatable method is to compare the surface of the valve adjuster screw end at half height to a different valve stem with its adjuster screw removed. This visual comparison can be achieved using 1/4" bubble levels attached to each surface using a magnet and double back tape. Once these two bubble levels are approximately centered only then can parallelism be assured. This process eliminates operator error influence sufficiently with reliable accuracy and repeatability and will provide a much more reliable custom pushrod length. If the rocker arm geometry process used is not repeatable it will conclude a different pushrod length each time. Custom pushrods are expensive, don't leave it to chance!
That one simple item of making sure the rocker stud is backed up high enough above what ever shim your using , so the rocker shaft base is properly located is priceless information. Good stuff EZ . Great video on a rainy NW morning.
The stock stud and rockershaft are a much better fit and finish than any of the so called race stuff. I've learned that the hard way.
@@TheEZGZmay I ask where you got your stainless steel valves and shims and other VW parts. I rebuild a 1600 CC that is in a small light sport experimental airplane that I have. The original builder over compressed the engine. It was certified for 100 to 130 LL av gas. He lost a rear piston and valves obviously to pre ignition. He did a crappy job patching it up. I have the logs and notes the condition inspector wouldn't sign off in the repairs thank heavens. It's been in storage since the 1980ties. Has very low engine hours. The German made bottom end is in excellent condition. I want to upgrade the valves I had the heads rebuilt by a very good local engine machinist. Nonetheless, Im a little bit nervous about it getting pre ignition knocking an losing a cylinder in flight. I matched the Pistons rods pins Weghed an balanced them. But I want to reduce the compression ratio. . To much compression and heat for my Comfort. I made my own rocker shims but would feel better with factory mades. I want to put stainless steel valves in it. An reduce the compression for safety sake . Your thoughts are appreciated.
Good to see you back doing videos.👍🏼🤙🏼
More to come! Thanks for the comment and support!
I sure can hear the pep in your voice again. Thank you for posting and keeping us all on the same page.
G'day Mr EZGZ,
Kevin here from Australia.
A lot of stuff to take in.
But one thing i have to say is after watching this video you've got your mojo back man.
Stay safe and healthy
✌ Peace
I'll feel better if this turd runs. Everything was such a struggle.
@@TheEZGZ everything was a struggle but you got through it. ✌
Great too see you back in the garage. You make it look easy. Thanks for all the good information. Stay safe out there.
Thanks 👍
nice work! rocker arm geometry is one of my enjoyable parts of engine building. You can really see the time and patience pay off when you hit the sweet spot. Also, valve keeper wear can be reduced if you stone down the edges of the keepers, this makes them a snug fit around the valve, most are a sloppy fit causing wear to the valve grooves. Folks will tell you they need to be sloppy to allow the valve to rotate....nice idea in theory but valve rotation does not really happen, ever seen a burnt out valve and the seat burnt in exactly the same place as the burnt valve...proves they don't rotate as we all think they do. So better to stone edges of the keepers down to get a nice snug fit and reduce valve groove wear....try it sometime. Great vid.
I beg to differ. You ain't going to stone down chrome moly race retainers. They come made with a gap to be sure and grip tightly. The race retainers are harder than the stem groove area and the much higher spring pressure and RPM is what wears out the valves. I have ground down stock keepers for a tight fit but lately I've found the factory new what they were doing by designing a a fit that would allow the valve to turn. That's the purpose of setting the tip of the stock adjuster off center. I think when you see the dual burn at valve and seat it's because the head is so used up it gets caught and won't rotate which causes a worse hot spot and total failure occurs. VW had a lot of valve failure problems in the 1200 sp engines and they made several changes to the valve assembly., All poppet valve engines through the 1950's had valve failure issues. The valve manufactures really got there act together in the mid 60's. There is a lot of detail about this in the hot rod book I showed at the bigging. It's an interesting read. Thanks for you comment and view. I certainly agree it can't hurt to stone the edges on any machine edges. They could put them in a tumbler like a rock polisher and charge extra for smoothing out the product. I guess thats why they added a better filter on the type 4 engines.
@@TheEZGZ I believe the failures were seen on the single groove valve's, the triple groove sorted the problem (but it didnt stop heads breaking off stems ) Everyone has a different 'flavour & style' of building these great little engines. I have the VW hot rod book but my copy has a yellow cover showing a drag race engine with a big red FOUR TUNED exhaust system fitted? Goog tip with the head bolt nuts being used for rocker studs, we may adopt that idea onto the race car.
Super excited you are back. I built my 2110 from all new parts/pieces a few years ago thanks to all your videos. You have no idea how much you've helped myself and others. Thank you and keep 'em coming. :)
That is awesome! I hope you get lots of smiles to miles with your 2110
Another great video ezgz thanks for sharing the huge amount of knowledge you have gained over the year's it helps us newbies more than you know
Thanks 👍 I feel like I'm a newbie. I learn stuff durring every build and every failure. Keep the radio off and listen to your engine instead. It's always talking to me.
Welcome back buddy! Sure missed you! Thanks for coming back and educating us!!! Love you man...
Another interesting thing I learned is to have the “needle” of your dial caliper parallel with your valve stem (can see the valve stem through the exhaust port) to get a more accurate lift number. Just a bit off makes quite a difference in your total lift measurement. I measured anywhere from .480-.510 just by making minor adjustments!!😳
Good Point. I tried. But maybe that's why I was seeing .421 instead of the .418 on on the cam card.
Very well explained GZ, that makes everything very clear. Thanks
Your a real gentleman my friend. Thank You
Great information buddy, glad to see you up playing around, thank you sir
More to come!
Great video man, I built my 2276 12 years ago and have kinda forgotten all of this stuff I did and will shortly be doing it again, it needs a refresh, thanks for reminding me, you’re doing great things for us. Thankyou!
Go for it! If I go 12 day's I have to get the books out. hehehe
Lots of difference between assembly and sweetening. I don't know much about either, but I love hearing / seeing it.
Thanks for Sharing a lot of great information. I wish I knew all that and had the time to do it for myself. Good to see you and I hope you’re doing well and enjoying . Thanks for sharing and I will see you soon. BigW:-)
Omg yess!!! Been looking at how to set it up correctly for my mini stroker 1800cc!
Glad I could help! Your going to love that 1800. I hope you get lots of smiles to the miles.
Yes sir bout time ya got back in front of the camera, 👍🏻looks like all's good with ya buddy ! You've been a Big help with my 1929cc stroker build over the last year. Thanks keeping it real 👍🏻 And keep them lil bloopers at the end, LMBO !!! Appreciate ya EZGZ ✌🏻🇺🇸💪🏻
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the tips, I always have trouble with rockers.
Any time!
Good catch on the rocker stud!
Thanks!
Lots of great information 👍I have that book also have how to keep your vw alive. Good read
I agree! If you ever run across the Gene Berg Blue books or product catolog Grab them. I think you will enjoy them as well.
good job on showing us the deal on rocker arm geometry I was not sure about this. most of my stuff has been stock, but I watch for this in the future even on stock engines. thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Bill Fisher's book inspired me in high school! That info endures! On my 1968cc singleport build I ported my heads according to the flow bench data in that book.
I'll bet your car ran great after that. It's just plain physics and those figured out how to make that single port stuff fly down the track. I think the whole entire automotive industry were making big improvements in the 60's. Mostly due to the higher quality fuel. To bad is polluted the environment. I'm glad you and I were there to enjoy it.
We do this sometimes By eye.....But only when its close to stock. For instance. when I build a engine I like going 1904 or 1800 Mainly because they are easy counterweighted engines. when using short rods 5.325. and stock valve train and simple camshaft upgrade like W100 the stock pushrod length usually comes out fine when you step cut the head for extra CC other than that combo. The things that really change that change things are Valves and valve train upgrades. For instance if your going with stainless exhaust now you need lash caps or elephant adjusters. this ads length and requires spacers or ratio rockers.....Now you probably need cut to fit pushrods. of if you go with. stock rods and that combo. then you have large spacers on the heads or under the cylinders. all this makes the geometry way off. For the most part all you need to do is look at the top and bottom of the lift and figure where the middle is then look at where the rocker hits the valve. Watch the rocker from where it starts to when it bottoms out and see how the rocker slides on the valve and make sure it is near even top to bottom. We did the 1800 this way and I will do it again in a future video. We didnt film it because we were pressed for time.
Thanks for the explanation.. I'm sure it will help others who read my comments.
Good to see you back
Damn so good to see you back!! Very good video! Always a wealth of knowledge
I appreciate your support :-)
Great info EZ. Keep laughing and keep smiling.
Thanks, will do!
Very nice !!!
Been awhile since I've been on here.
Looks like ur still at it. I had taken a leave from RUclips for about a year. Just way too busy with way too many things. Got laid-off last spring for afew months. Been playing catch up ever since.
Welcome back! I remember you. You had some fun projects
Dude I was worried about you.No videos for a while .GODbless from Kentucky
Back at ya
Great information on the rocker studs and shims. 👍
The devil is in the details..... Thanks for checking in
Yeah I’m into longevity with the motor but that comes through detail or blue printing. If I ever go to your country I would like to make the effort to visit,I like the details , thanks I like your videos 😊
Thanks for the tips as always EZGZ. My 1600 DP in my bus is finally telling me "that's enough mate". I know the crank is bent, the cam lobes are worn & the split centre crank bearings are worn to their copper base in spots (1 split half is anyway). I didn't have enough money to change everything 5 years ago- I just cleaned everything and put it all back in, including new heads, studs hardware/seals. I have all stock including a new old 3 piece intake manifold with heat risers unblocked.
From my experience I've found when holding 50mph (limited head wind) my oil temp stays on 80 degrees . If I push up to 55mph the temp rises to 90 degrees after about 10 minutes but if I drop back to 50mph again the temp goes back to 80 degrees. I don't ever really try for 65mph unless she wants to (down hill:-). I can hold 50mph for hours on end and it stays at 80 degrees (celcius). If I get off the freeway and back onto highways the temp goes back to 65 degrees by the time I pull in the driveway after hours on end of 50mph. I believe this is how it should be when everything is where it should be on a stock 1600 DP.
Anyways, I'm thinking about a 1776 with stock crank and heads or just keeping it stock 1600 (1584 or whatever it exactly is). I'm interested in longevity more than any impressive sprints and I'm after long distance- its a camper. Could you point out some things between a stock 1600 DP & a 1776?
If building a 1776 could you keep a single 34-pict 3 carb with an oil bath filter?
Could the oil bath manage the extra crankcase oil fumes sufficiently or would leaks occur sooner or later?
Can you keep the heat exchangers? And is the stock 1600 system sufficient enough to cool a 1776?
Would the brake booster vacumn line on the throat of the intake manifold be happy with this arrangement?
If 2 x carbs are required do you typically tap into both manifold throats on both heads and run a T piece for the brake booster in order to keep the carbs' air balanced?
What is the typical RPM for a stock 1600 DP at 50mph compared with a 1776 with dual carbs, 1.25 ratio, etc?
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At this point I'm more enclined to just rebuild a 1600 so I don't have to put up with PCV and After market carbs I have no experience with.
This is a long comment and so are your videos but the VW engines are detailed pieces and so it all should be!!
PS. No expectation for a reply at all and no offence taken either way, all the very best :-)
Early on you stated you don't have a lot of money to spend on parts to rebuild what you have. Don't even think about turning it into a 1776.
Bus engine even when driven with care have a hard life. Let me tell you a story. I had a 71 Westy Camper bus. I had a mild 1776 in it. I wanted to go fishing in the Mountains. It would always get hot going up the hill and I would have to pull over and let it cool down. I had a well worn 1600 DP in a sedan that I used for going back and forth to work slogging along in traffic. I decided to swap engines and put that old 1600 in my bus. Went back to my fishing spot and drove right by that place that I usually had to pull over. I actually arrived at my fishing spot sooner and with a happy engine. The sedan had a bit more pep with the 1776. Happy Ending.
I would not spend any more time or money on your old engine. I would look for a different engine with less miles that had a easier life. Give it a good cleaning and do some tests on it. Use parts from both engines to make something better than what you have. Make sure you buy a unerversal engine case with holes for your bus mount. They make a adapter that bolts to you oil pump but I have tried that and don't recommend it.
Consider going in debt for one of those brand new zero mile long blocks and then transfer over your parts. Buy ounce Cry ounce. If you do a cheap rebuild you will always be fussing with it and worrying about it.
@@TheEZGZ thanks a bunch for the advice!
Awesome videos keep it up my friend, from SC !!!
Thanks 👍
OMG this is so hard. It looks EZGZ when EZ does it.
You know it now so Getter Done..... :-)
Should the rocker arm be parallel to the head surface at 50% compression when checking or preforming the alignment of the rocker arm valve assembly?
What ever your seeing in the vid showed it set up correctly. I hope you can see it from different angles to answer your question.
At 1/2 lift yes the end of the rocker arm and end of adjuster should be parallel to the flat edged surface of the head
This is good stuff.
Glad you liked it! :-)
Very good information. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment and support :-)
Great video EZ! thanks for the lesson
Glad you liked it!
Love that you're back! What does the fox say? 😂
Hey, Hey !!
Thank you for this video - I'm finishing my 1st time engine build and struggling a lot with this part
Glad I could help but don’t worry about it if it’s bone stock
@@TheEZGZ turns out since I used a cheater cam I will need cut to lenght push rods
EZGZ --- On the setup of the rocker shaft and the rocker arms over the valve stem ----- does having the rocker arm tip slightly to the right or left of center ( using shaft shims to adjust) of the valve stem make the valve rotate, not much, but just not right on center? I thought I read somewhere that valves rotate? ----------- Really Enjoy the Info You Put Out ----------
Thank You ---- Let me know if you would ---- Rodney
The early engines before 1967 had problems with the exhaust valve heads breaking off so they tried to rotate the valves to make the heat more even. It's not that important on newer heads and the manufacturing of valves improved. The stock rocker shafts used the spring washers to keep the noise down and worked fine on a stock cam and valve springs. If your building a high RPM engine most folks use solid shafts and use shims to take up the space. Side to side on the valve is not as important as having the contact point on center at 1/2 lift. You need a minimum of .004 space on the shaft. Side to side
@@TheEZGZ Thank you for setting that straight ------ I was watching your video on getting Push Rods cut to length, you were using your Dremel to cut the tube to length ---- Do you think a small tubing cutter would work? -- Slightly chamfer the outside edge, then clean the burr off from inside then drive in the tip?
I put scat 1.25 with the ball feet on a 1600 DP. I ended up using no shims and pushrods about 1/4" Shorter. I have an odd problem of the ball in the rocker arm socket acts like a spring! when the pushrod end of the rocker is pressed it feels like a Hydro lifter that is not pumped up. It is the ball inside the socket that is odly acting like a spring. Anyone have any ideas???
Thank you for invest the time to show us how it works, im working in my project, a ´92 hot street that originally used to be FI, then I decided to upgrade and switch to central 44 IDF, stock 1600 and w110 and all the stuff it needs , but i have been involved in problems with my heads, of course I made port job, 40x35.5 SS valves, hard springs and all the chromolly hardware, but when I was adjusting geometry, I noticed that valve stem seals can´t fit with new geometry , so i decided to remove it.
The main problem is that when driving, the cyl 1 spark always get wet with oil/gas and engine starts popping, then i change, work a few miles and then problem happens again, of course i will check it as your advice but i want to know your opinion about it, shuld I make head guides job to fit stem seals to inlet valves? or keep without it and re-adjust geometry?
Greeting from Mexico city and hope good health to you --- Charly
VW head’s don’t come with valve stem seals.
If you’re fouling only #1 cylinder you have other issues. Maybe rings are on piston wrong? Central 44IDF is way to big for 1600 and 110 cam.
@@TheEZGZ thanks for your answer, i aprecciate it, in mexico market, the fuel injected vw cames with stem seals, sound crazy but it is, i´ll re check my valve guides and rings setting, so finally do you recommend to tune the 44 like a 40? or better to increase the cc maybe at least to 1800?
with those swivel-foot adjusters, at half lift, where should they be?
Level or 90 degrees from the Rocker Shaft
I'm so freakin confused, I've tried everything, shims, shortening th epushrod, lengthening, just gonna go back to stock adjusters bc i got the mark in the dead center when i shortened the pushrod to 10.846 ", went to half lift and it was dead center of the valve @@TheEZGZ
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Hi there - I have standard 1600 EMPI cylinder heads and standard cams - I’ve added 60” thickness valve lash caps to top of SS valves (as recommended by Empi). To maintain geometry I have added 60” rocker pad shims .. is this a correct assumption?
Yes, Your on the right track.
Hey EZGZ hope your well. I never knew about any of this but something interesting happened to me. I have fb 044 heads and one of my rocker arm assemblies is stuck. I tried to remove it and it one come off. The other side slipped right off. What could it be? I tried tapping it with a rubber mallet and priori g it off with a screwdriver and it still won’t budge!
Just carefully apply more pressure close to the blocks. I never had one do that but I have had the studs break off. You can buy replacement studs or reuse old ones.
I have a 2110 with a Engle 110 ,044 heads and stock rockers would 1.25 rockers be worth putting on ? Oh it’s a heavy westfalia. Great vids. Phil
NO! 1.25 will increase the lift. It is more wear and tear on heads that are over worked as it is on a bus. Adding lift increases the potential for higher RPM at the cost of loosing low end torque. Nobody these days makes a decent 1.25 rocker that is as strong as the stock forged VW ones you have. Keep close attention to those 044 heads. There is to much of the valve guide boss removed to support the valve guide. It allows for better air flow but I had a valve guide come loose while driving. It happened real fast. Guide got broken up in the valve seat and peace's went into the cylinder. Beat up the piston and bent the connecting rod. :-(
Thanks for that. I’d love someone to build a great usable 2110 for a westfalia that gets up hills and drives at a nice 65 mph.
Saying that mine is going well now since I got rid of the Spanish Weber 40s and put Dell’Ortos on.
When you do your rockers do you get the specified lift? I noticed that i can set one rocker with adj pushrod. No matter what combination of shims or pushrod length to get half lift right. I wont get the specified lift. Then not changing anything ill get more lift on the next? And this isnt using no name parts. Do you check each rocker?
Had to read your question several times. I want to give you a fair answer. In this vid I just did the one because it isn't that big of a cam. I was surprised to see the lift higher than advertised. A few thousands off of advertised is not a big deal what's more important is that at 1/2 lift your on the center of the valve stem. Lift isn't the worry it's avoiding unnecessary side pressure on your valve guides. You get less friction, more RPM and longevity. Ounce you start getting over 1/2 inch (.500) lift. Chit Happens. I started breaking rocker arm studs because in 2 years my springs go weak and I drive my car almost every day. Any kind of ratio rocker set up over 1.25 you better have your stuff together. Less spring pressure is more of a problem than more spring pressure. Not to mention trying to figure out what will work best with your favorite pump gas. We have to do it all manually., The new car fuel injection computers just figure it out as you drive.
Just relax and don't expect to nail it on the head. Your doing way more than most folks. Just average it out and look for big errors. Most advertised numbers are to get your money......
@@TheEZGZ yes my cam will be .514 with 1:25 rockers. I can get it to look good at half lift. The rocker lined up with head and adjuster inline with valve but will only get .497 total lift. But your right at some point it is what it is but it can drive you crazy. Also thank you for your tip on the rocker stud to make sure its seated in shaft. I also noticed some shims are not sized right and hang up on them.
Very informative video, thanks! I would like to offer everyone a method I developed in 2015 and published instructions on The Samba. The objective in performing rocker arm geometry is to find the correct length push rod when at the point of TVL/2 by way of adjusting the shims under the rocker arm such that half height results in the valve stem plane being parallel to any other un-pushed stable valve stem. This height adjustment changes the rocker arm pivot point and as such it influences valve function, lift and duration. How is parallel determined? Most will employ the "eyeball" method as viewed from the rocker end but if small bubble levels are used then maximum precision and repeatability can be achieved. One bubble level is placed on any other valve stem with its adjuster screw removed. The other bubble level is affixed (magnet & double tape) to the valve lash adjuster screw. Once the two levels are approximately centered when at half of total valve lift then the push rod length can be measured. Centering the rocker arm contact with the valve stem at half height will minimize valve guide wear and resistance. Follow the path of the rocker contact across the valve stem surface to fully understand.
Great info Sir. Glad to have you on board. I need all the help I can get. Have great 2024
I just read your right up on this on Samba and It makes the most sense to me for getting it correct. My only question is what size levels did you use. The smallest diameter I can find is 10mm
@@Kelteclover I am very pleased you found and read my procedure and I hope it works well for you. Don't hesitate to contact me with any questions. The 10mm diameter bubble target level is what I used and mounted it to a
@@jamescandelaria4840 So I bought the bubble levels and instead of the magnets I 3D printed caps from TPU so they would be absolutely straight and flat then glued the levels to those. The set up works perfect and sure takes the guesswork out of it. I was able to dial it in perfect but my only concern is the amount of stand shim to get it correct. So here is my set up I'm using CB performance 1.1.1 rockers with elephant foot adjusters. Engle 100 cam and 8.25.1 compression on a 1600 engine. The heads are CB 044 CC and cut to 47cc. The total shim height is .180" which seems extreme. I could probably reduce the stack using lash caps and regular adjusters but I wanted to get your take.
@@Kelteclover Nice work devising another method to use the bubble levels. Yes, surprisingly it could take quite a few more shims than you might think in order to set the geometry correct. There are several contributing variables for this need. Start with deck height which is the distance from the theoretical center of the crankshaft to the cylinder barrel surface. Cases that are re-machined will change the overall height of the head. Sometimes too, when this is not performed correctly, the deck height for one side of the case will not be the same for the other. When this happens the final shim thicknesses will be different for each side. Cylinder heights are quite consistent but measurement will confirm this. Adjacent cylinders should never be different heights. As for the heads, there are influences from machining the combustion chamber size and valve seat work. I think your setup is quite good. Are the intakes ported to maximize flow? When the shim thicknesses increase I have had to back out the rocker stand screws a bit so that the rocker can be bolted onto the stands. I am very pleased you were able to use the geometry setting procedure. Were you able to accurately measure the final push rod length needed? Where have you purchased the custom length push rods? My email address in at the bottom of the procedure for future contact. If you would like to send some photos I will be excited to see you engine build progress. Jimmy
THANK YOU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Here is another way to describe the rocker arm geometry process. THE most critical part of this process is to achieve parallelism between the valve stem (or lash cap) surface and the "head". A JBugs video defines the "head" surface as the valve cover surface and the assumption that it will be parallel to the valve stem (or lash cap). This assumption introduces a major flaw that the valve seat and its guide are machined to be perpendicular to valve cover surface. This is not a safe and accurate assumption AND this process implies to compare these two surfaces by visual examination only, another source of measurement error that is not accurate or repeatable. A much more dependable, accurate and repeatable method is to compare the surface of the valve adjuster screw end at half height to a different valve stem with its adjuster screw removed. This visual comparison can be achieved using 1/4" bubble levels attached to each surface using a magnet and double back tape. Once these two bubble levels are approximately centered only then can parallelism be assured. This process eliminates operator error influence sufficiently with reliable accuracy and repeatability and will provide a much more reliable custom pushrod length. If the rocker arm geometry process used is not repeatable it will conclude a different pushrod length each time. Custom pushrods are expensive, don't leave it to chance!
Just a whole lot of rambling.
Kind of like your music Kathy LOL