Nice! Nothing better than finally figuring out an issue and fixing it yourself and seeing the results. Have that same knocking on the drivers side despite replacing my struts, cv axle, ball bearings, brakes, rotors, sway bar link, practically everything except the control arm and those bushings, so that will probably be the next step. Thanks man.
Great video !!! I have decided that I AM NOT replacing the front sway bar after watching the one good video I could find of a Gen 2 swap, on a rack... I might be wimping out, but laying on my back in winter, even in California, with short days and colder temps ( yeah I know, no snow, don't complain) is not fun . I'm going with a Progressive rear sway bar and that's it till the front end dies . 2.0 automatic , dont think I'll ever be tracking in my lifetime at age 62: got it out of my system beating two Chevy Vega's in my youth , and a 69 Camaro. the Vega with the Weber carb and the aluminum intake was fun to drive, borg warner 5 speed and front and rear sway bars ....chased my friend down west cliff drive in the mist one night : he went straight at the Y, I made the curve and swung my ass end around and wrapped it around the caution sign..... the sign was there for a reason: two Sylvania employees went out for a liquid lunch in a 53 corvette one afternoon, only one ever made it back to work..... the driver took the hit into a 4 foot cypress tree, the passenger got thrown and lived to tell about it . Let me tell you , that huge corvette steering wheel was not a good thing to hit .... I was a volunteer fireman then, my neighbor a paid San Jose Guy, we ran down the 1000 yard side street when we heard it...not a thing that we could do for that driver ..... lot's of stories, the things you see and do as a fireman on a major 4 lane highway and the most popular motorcycle hang out eatery ... it will slow you down on your street and highway driving ...... okay, enough stories sound like my 88 year old dad ( not that that's a bad thing ...)
come in from the top with 24" of extensions and a U joint. Will do these next. Why Mazda says drop subframe is a mystery unless the captive nut strips in the subframe. M3and MS3 are different MOOG part numbers so you probably have the larger swaybar. Good work!
UK here, here because my '06 Mazda3 2l has developed knock on the driver's side that's not the drop link and this looks like the only thing left. Manual says use rubber grease on the standard ones, split to the rear, torque figures are 40.3-54.7 Nm / 29.8-40.3 ft-lb, arrow on the bracket to the front and tighten down in the order front-back-front.
Just had a look at the bushes on mine. The factory put them in split to the front, opposite to what the Mazda manual says in two separate pictures. Go figure.
Good deal. Got to do these on my '07 Speed 3 6sp manual. And was hoping I didn't have to drop the control arms that I just installed... but oh well. Life of a mechanic, I suppose. Why do we do this to ourselves... baahahaha!
@@ColtonRichter Especially since I just replaced it, no seized bolts to worry about, except for busting a knuckle or two breaking the bushing mounts loose!
Grate vid but the other side is a whole different ball game removing the control arm. You'll need to remove the back transmission mount bolt and slightly jack up the air compressor and pry the engine forward as to remove the front control arm bolt. I just replaced mine not long ago and now my swaybar bushings are shot!! So wish I had of replaced those while I was in there while I did it 😢
@@ColtonRichter Yeah I should have mentioned it does depend on which model someone owns. Wish I didn't have to do it on mine but the work shops want way to much money so looks like I'm in for a few hours work now 😫
I have a 2011 mazda 3 5spd auto lol worst tranny out of them all I guess but that's the best plan for motor mounts would you say? Just stock rubber ones? Only saying that because I wouldn't want too much vibrating with Polyurethane, auto is worse then standered I guess
Thanks for the video! I have an 07 speed3. Just did the front and rear sway bar bushings and endlinks. I did what you suggested about loosening the rear control arm bracket and i was able to do the whole job without removing the control arm. I do have small hands. Took a lot of extensions and patience. I also verified with my mechanic and he said the bushings i had were right. (MOOG 200675). Either way, helpful video! Thanks again for posting.
@@ColtonRichter I KNOW. Live and learn. Not to mention you MUST measure your sway bar for bushing size. Mine is 21mm, and I got the wrong size from Amazon. So had to go to a local store, and their bushings were smaller than my old ones, but still fit. Its a headache....In retrospect, I think the shop that put my old bushings on got the wrong type also (likely for 2010-13 Mazda, while mine is 2007), which explains why am I replacing the bushings 4 years later...
Nice! Nothing better than finally figuring out an issue and fixing it yourself and seeing the results. Have that same knocking on the drivers side despite replacing my struts, cv axle, ball bearings, brakes, rotors, sway bar link, practically everything except the control arm and those bushings, so that will probably be the next step. Thanks man.
It'll feel so good when it's all done too!
Did you have a video of the clunking sounds?
I don't, but literally felt like a bomb was going off, you'll notice a clunk as well from turning left to right
Great video !!! I have decided that I AM NOT replacing the front sway bar after watching the one good video I could find of a Gen 2 swap, on a rack... I might be wimping out, but laying on my back in winter, even in California, with short days and colder temps ( yeah I know, no snow, don't complain) is not fun . I'm going with a Progressive rear sway bar and that's it till the front end dies . 2.0 automatic , dont think I'll ever be tracking in my lifetime at age 62: got it out of my system beating two Chevy Vega's in my youth , and a 69 Camaro. the Vega with the Weber carb and the aluminum intake was fun to drive, borg warner 5 speed and front and rear sway bars ....chased my friend down west cliff drive in the mist one night : he went straight at the Y, I made the curve and swung my ass end around and wrapped it around the caution sign..... the sign was there for a reason: two Sylvania employees went out for a liquid lunch in a 53 corvette one afternoon, only one ever made it back to work..... the driver took the hit into a 4 foot cypress tree, the passenger got thrown and lived to tell about it . Let me tell you , that huge corvette steering wheel was not a good thing to hit .... I was a volunteer fireman then, my neighbor a paid San Jose Guy, we ran down the 1000 yard side street when we heard it...not a thing that we could do for that driver ..... lot's of stories, the things you see and do as a fireman on a major 4 lane highway and the most popular motorcycle hang out eatery ... it will slow you down on your street and highway driving ...... okay, enough stories sound like my 88 year old dad ( not that that's a bad thing ...)
Front sway bar won't do much for you if it's not worth your time!
come in from the top with 24" of extensions and a U joint. Will do these next. Why Mazda says drop subframe is a mystery unless the captive nut strips in the subframe. M3and MS3 are different MOOG part numbers so you probably have the larger swaybar. Good work!
Mazda saying dropping the subframe to remove the swaybar is correct, but the bushings are definitely doable as is.
UK here, here because my '06 Mazda3 2l has developed knock on the driver's side that's not the drop link and this looks like the only thing left.
Manual says use rubber grease on the standard ones, split to the rear, torque figures are 40.3-54.7 Nm / 29.8-40.3 ft-lb, arrow on the bracket to the front and tighten down in the order front-back-front.
Just had a look at the bushes on mine. The factory put them in split to the front, opposite to what the Mazda manual says in two separate pictures. Go figure.
Kinda tedious but doable. Thanks for another great tutorial Colton.
Glad you were able to fix it
So if I'm already changing ball joint/control arm... Might as well swap sway bushing
Yes!
Good deal. Got to do these on my '07 Speed 3 6sp manual. And was hoping I didn't have to drop the control arms that I just installed... but oh well. Life of a mechanic, I suppose. Why do we do this to ourselves... baahahaha!
Haha, just easier to take out
@@ColtonRichter Especially since I just replaced it, no seized bolts to worry about, except for busting a knuckle or two breaking the bushing mounts loose!
The most legendary video i’ve seen yet
😂
Grate vid but the other side is a whole different ball game removing the control arm. You'll need to remove the back transmission mount bolt and slightly jack up the air compressor and pry the engine forward as to remove the front control arm bolt. I just replaced mine not long ago and now my swaybar bushings are shot!!
So wish I had of replaced those while I was in there while I did it 😢
I didn't have to do that on this one, but I recall having to do it on my Sedan
@@ColtonRichter Yeah I should have mentioned it does depend on which model someone owns. Wish I didn't have to do it on mine but the work shops want way to much money so looks like I'm in for a few hours work now 😫
Good stuff, Colton.
Always informative 😊
Cheers ✌
I have a 2011 mazda 3 5spd auto lol worst tranny out of them all I guess but that's the best plan for motor mounts would you say? Just stock rubber ones? Only saying that because I wouldn't want too much vibrating with Polyurethane, auto is worse then standered I guess
Yeah but if you go with stock you have to buy OEM, never had luck with the aftermarket OE replacements.
Wow, thanks for showing us that hack! I was about to buy an engine support and drop the subframe.
Anytime!
what rain guards do you have?
Well Visors
Please I want to know where to find the color code of the Mazda 3
Drivers door ID plate just above the bar code
@@jaybones614 thank u 🤍
Thanks for the video! I have an 07 speed3. Just did the front and rear sway bar bushings and endlinks. I did what you suggested about loosening the rear control arm bracket and i was able to do the whole job without removing the control arm. I do have small hands. Took a lot of extensions and patience. I also verified with my mechanic and he said the bushings i had were right. (MOOG 200675). Either way, helpful video! Thanks again for posting.
Nice!
Good 👍
Don't need to remove lower arm to do this bud, just need puny arms and hands 😂😂 sometimes it pays to be small👍
😂
Photomikes Garage has another way. Reach in from behind the crossmember. Like a proctologist. Shown on a Mazda 5.
I did same way as you on 2012 mazd 5 and one bolt snapped. Now I am in one hand in the toilet. Lol. Might have to remove sub frame anyway.
oh no!
Mine didn't snap but was very difficult all the way out.
I did it without taking the lower control arm off. It took me about 4 hours. Biggest POS I have done. There is NO space.
Haha, take the control arm off
@@ColtonRichter I KNOW. Live and learn. Not to mention you MUST measure your sway bar for bushing size. Mine is 21mm, and I got the wrong size from Amazon. So had to go to a local store, and their bushings were smaller than my old ones, but still fit. Its a headache....In retrospect, I think the shop that put my old bushings on got the wrong type also (likely for 2010-13 Mazda, while mine is 2007), which explains why am I replacing the bushings 4 years later...
NO WAY you didn't drop the subframe to get all that room
No dropping here!