Was getting a clicking noise when driving on uneven surfaces. Replaced the sway bar links & noise went away. Great video! If anyone if having trouble lining the sway bar links to the holes use a jack to lift up the control arm until holes are lined up.
Your video is very much appreciated. I just replaced my front end links on my 2014 mazda 5 a couple of hours ago. Ironically the last bolt was the toughest. The top bolt on the driver's side was rusted so i used your technique of the clamp on the backside and a bolt removal kit for the 14mm. Pop. Otherwise the tightening and torque went well. Rides better too.
Unfortunately I had such a rusty bolt, neither method worked. So I went with the 3rd option and cut off the bolt with an angle grinder and cut-off disc. Had to do this with the rears as well and it sucks when you don't have much room doing it on the floor with the car on jack stands. The joys of living in a the rustbelt and having an old car. Thanks for the video though, well done!
My links are factory and are finally starting to fail after 200k miles. I’m glad to know that the replacement is fairly straightforward, although I’m sure I’ll have plenty of rust to contend with as I’m in the northeast. Thanks for the video!
Just replaced my 2010 Mazda3's sway bar links today, which solved my "clunking" problem at low speeds and over speed bumps, but now my car has pretty steady overall vibration (wheel, floor, seats, etc.), most noticeable at 50+ mph. I drive my car a lot, and this vibration wasn't there before the repair-it was enough to make me car sick during my hour commute. When I take it back to the dealership, what should I have them look at? Alignment? Is there anything that could have been done during the repair that could cause this issue? Thanks, great video!
@@SayAnything8 i agree the sway bar links could have been counteracting the unbalanced tires but it could also be the alignment or the links were not tightened properly
A very helpful video. I've got the dreaded 'clunk' and 'squeak' over speed bumps and the like; I've had the struts and top bushes replaced and am disappointed that the originals may have been okay and this could have been the problem. She's going up in the air tomorrow for me to have a look!!
All kinds of issues can cause that on a Mazda 3 - control arms, sway bar end links (minor), struts (oil leaked out), top strut mount bearing and even axles. I had worn aftermarket axles on a 2007 400k KM Mazda 3 and the axles were clunking at low speed - that took a long time to diagnose.
I keep reading that suspension parts with bushings should be loaded with the cars weight or the suspension jacked up to ride height before torquing the nuts. Is this a myth since non of your suspension replacement videos do this step?
Doesn't the mounting bracket for the end link have a rubber damper attached to it? Mine is missing like yours. I was wondering if it comes without it from the factory for some cars.
I found it easier to remove the both of them at the same time so it’s easier to move the sway bar up and down. No promise this won’t affect the bushing holding the sway bar but it works pretty well.
Surprised that i didn't see some penetrating oil being used on those nuts to maybe help make removing them a little easier. Also most of us don't have hex-head sockets, so an old-school high quality l-shaped hex wrench (NOT the all-in one folding set) would probably be fine without resorting to the locking pliers on the bottom nut, not to be critical. Also pre-treating with penetrating oil. Very much appreciate this video series! Many thanks.👍
+Avenger 1 Thanks for checking us out. This would depend on the environment. Since you are in the salt belt as they say, these may rust much faster than a vehicle that was in the mid west due to the salt usage in the winter time. This is even further variable based on how often you wash the vehicle and if you are in an area that gets more/less snow with more/less salt usage.
These are PITA to remove. I was also able to hold the back with pliers and spin it off with an impact - it was a bit of a challenge because I wanted to save the part.
I removed the broken sway bar link and attempting to put the new one in but it seems to be too long. I put the old and the new one aide by side and their the same size. Do I need to have the whole front of the car raised or is the only side that needs to be up is the side I'm changing out?
Hi I have some rattling noise coming from the rear of my 2007 Mazda 3 and I replaced both shocks and mounts and sway bar links and both lower lateral arms and both upper camber arms and still hearing rattling noise
+Eugene Curley We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I couldn't get the nut on the ABS bracket to come loose. I almost stripped it, I had a breaker bar too. This bolt will not loosen. Going to have to spend money I guess 😞
Would it be easier to remove the lower sway bar bolt with out the strut on? I'm planning to replace the struts and sway bars. Wondering if it would be easier?
+Avenger 1 Thanks for checking us out! Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair. This process is how we would do it but you can give it a try to see if that's easier for you! Let us know how it goes if you do. 1aauto.com
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Sue is my favorite at explaining things clearly. Has helped me numerous times.
I love these videos. My dad and I come in very eager and over confident. Then we still end up 13 hours of misery and 6 trips to autozone
Was getting a clicking noise when driving on uneven surfaces. Replaced the sway bar links & noise went away. Great video! If anyone if having trouble lining the sway bar links to the holes use a jack to lift up the control arm until holes are lined up.
Your video is very much appreciated. I just replaced my front end links on my 2014 mazda 5 a couple of hours ago. Ironically the last bolt was the toughest. The top bolt on the driver's side was rusted so i used your technique of the clamp on the backside and a bolt removal kit for the 14mm. Pop. Otherwise the tightening and torque went well. Rides better too.
Do you have a video showing the replacement of the front sway bar bushings? Excellent clip, by the way. I've learned a lot from the 1AAuto videos.
Unfortunately I had such a rusty bolt, neither method worked. So I went with the 3rd option and cut off the bolt with an angle grinder and cut-off disc. Had to do this with the rears as well and it sucks when you don't have much room doing it on the floor with the car on jack stands. The joys of living in a the rustbelt and having an old car. Thanks for the video though, well done!
My links are factory and are finally starting to fail after 200k miles. I’m glad to know that the replacement is fairly straightforward, although I’m sure I’ll have plenty of rust to contend with as I’m in the northeast. Thanks for the video!
+Erin Sherman Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
For what that work? If u don’t mind
200 k miles or km ? 😲
@@missionnad1 200k miles i assume.
Thank yoooouuu!!!! you guys saved me another $300!
I go straight to 1A auto vids for torque numbers! Thank You
+Dianna Bandana Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Just replaced my 2010 Mazda3's sway bar links today, which solved my "clunking" problem at low speeds and over speed bumps, but now my car has pretty steady overall vibration (wheel, floor, seats, etc.), most noticeable at 50+ mph. I drive my car a lot, and this vibration wasn't there before the repair-it was enough to make me car sick during my hour commute. When I take it back to the dealership, what should I have them look at? Alignment? Is there anything that could have been done during the repair that could cause this issue? Thanks, great video!
get your tires balanced.
@@SayAnything8 i agree the sway bar links could have been counteracting the unbalanced tires but it could also be the alignment or the links were not tightened properly
now i understand its been two months so im just curios as to what it was?
A very helpful video. I've got the dreaded 'clunk' and 'squeak' over speed bumps and the like; I've had the struts and top bushes replaced and am disappointed that the originals may have been okay and this could have been the problem. She's going up in the air tomorrow for me to have a look!!
All kinds of issues can cause that on a Mazda 3 - control arms, sway bar end links (minor), struts (oil leaked out), top strut mount bearing and even axles. I had worn aftermarket axles on a 2007 400k KM Mazda 3 and the axles were clunking at low speed - that took a long time to diagnose.
Doing a tire rotation for my wife. All of sudden the front made a clunk . This video help tremendously. I thought I may be screwed lol.
Don’t you have to preload the end links before tightening?
I keep reading that suspension parts with bushings should be loaded with the cars weight or the suspension jacked up to ride height before torquing the nuts. Is this a myth since non of your suspension replacement videos do this step?
Thank you Ma’am, was very helpful!
+Fraidoon Ahmad Thanks for checking us out!
Doesn't the mounting bracket for the end link have a rubber damper attached to it? Mine is missing like yours. I was wondering if it comes without it from the factory for some cars.
+T A Some have the rubber bumper, but some do not. Thanks for watching.
Can you guys do a video of replacing front sway bar bushings? There’s no videos of that on RUclips. Thanks
I believe she say at 4:40 the bushing are sealed in the unit
you need to remove the front crossmember to get at the swaybar, it's a big operation that will require a proper lift like she has.
I found it easier to remove the both of them at the same time so it’s easier to move the sway bar up and down. No promise this won’t affect the bushing holding the sway bar but it works pretty well.
+@chasemika3836 Thanks for the feedback!
Surprised that i didn't see some penetrating oil being used on those nuts to maybe help make removing them a little easier.
Also most of us don't have hex-head sockets, so an old-school high quality l-shaped hex wrench (NOT the all-in one folding set) would probably be fine without resorting to the locking pliers on the bottom nut, not to be critical. Also pre-treating with penetrating oil.
Very much appreciate this video series! Many thanks.👍
+Hell Is A Lie Thanks for the feedback!
Highly recommend to buy a set of hex head sockets if regularly working on cars - they're a valuable asset in the tool collection.
happy fixing! awesome video!
How long does it take for a new sway bar link bolts to rust after putting them on?
I'm in New York
+Avenger 1 Thanks for checking us out. This would depend on the environment. Since you are in the salt belt as they say, these may rust much faster than a vehicle that was in the mid west due to the salt usage in the winter time. This is even further variable based on how often you wash the vehicle and if you are in an area that gets more/less snow with more/less salt usage.
i have mazda protege with coil overs and racing beat sway bars from msp i want to know what is the right link kits for my mazda protege 2000
These are PITA to remove. I was also able to hold the back with pliers and spin it off with an impact - it was a bit of a challenge because I wanted to save the part.
I removed the broken sway bar link and attempting to put the new one in but it seems to be too long. I put the old and the new one aide by side and their the same size. Do I need to have the whole front of the car raised or is the only side that needs to be up is the side I'm changing out?
Jack up the knuckle
Which part of the Mazda make that the steering wheel come back? What is the parts that need to be replace?
Do they fit the mazda 3 hatchback model?
yes
Hi I have some rattling noise coming from the rear of my 2007 Mazda 3 and I replaced both shocks and mounts and sway bar links and both lower lateral arms and both upper camber arms and still hearing rattling noise
+Eugene Curley We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
What if where the allen key is bold and cant use it. Whats the 2nd option to take the bolt off? Please help
nice video.......pls. also start mentioning about the function of parts that you work on.....
I couldn't get the nut on the ABS bracket to come loose. I almost stripped it, I had a breaker bar too. This bolt will not loosen. Going to have to spend money I guess 😞
Would it be easier to remove the lower sway bar bolt with out the strut on?
I'm planning to replace the struts and sway bars. Wondering if it would be easier?
+Avenger 1 Thanks for checking us out! Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair. This process is how we would do it but you can give it a try to see if that's easier for you! Let us know how it goes if you do. 1aauto.com
Do you need wheel alignment after reinstalling the sway bar links?
no
+John Dion We do recommend an alignment after any suspension parts are installed. Thanks for the question!
If you're only swapping out swaybar links with equally sized ones, there's nothing that would affect wheel alignment.
Nice ty❤️🙏
fantastic! much thanks
+Will Castro Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Hello ,
My torque wrench Starts from 50 foot pound and you guys saying to torque 40f.p ?! What to do ?
Use a normal ratchet. And if u feel like its not tight enough go back and tight it up some more
Good job!!!
+Doni Femrite Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Really nice&helpful
+jason gaskin Thanks for checking us out!
love it. thank you for your help. ;)
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Willian Barahona
This car has not being used in real weather. can you show real live change?
Haha true I just did mine today and bolts we're rusted and super hard to take off it sucked.
+pono321 Thanks for checking us out!
Is this an expensive repair ?
Each one costs around 30 usd
@@haydo8373 costs $60 each these days 🙄🙄🙄 hooray inflation
💯👊
👍👍👍👍👍