This Gun Can't Miss! Jim's personal Fierce Mountain Reaper in 6.5 PRC
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
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Use nail polish in place of loctite. It will lock the threads, is heat and vibration resistant, and breaks loose easily when needed. It also cleans up easily as well
Better thread lock option. VC3 stays a bit pliable so it doesn’t vibrate or crack loose. Found mine on Amazon. .
yea its what i use on all my rifles 100% better than any loctite brand thread locker for this type of application. my comment above has the full name for anyone interested
I highly recommend Vibra-TITE VC-3 in place of loc tite. It doesn't dry hard (more like a tacky gel) so you can remove and reinstall parts without having to reapply it. Paramount Tactical reccomended it and I have been using it on every firearm since. It does better than loctite when dealing with the vibration caused by operating your firearm and transporting it while hunting because it is designed to resist vibrations.
Rocksett is water soluble (soak in hot water if/when you need to remove it), but resists heat up to 2000f.
I agree, highly recommend rocksett
You were asking about thread lock for the suppressor. Silencerco sends "rockset" brand thread lock with their ASR muzzle devices. Might be worth looking into. I typically just check to make sure my suppressor is snug in between each group, and every so often during a hunt. Would be cool to see you do a video on this topic after doing some research so we can all learn with you! Thanks
I mix 3 to 1 blue and red Loctite. You can experiment with a nut, bolt and Torque wrench. Mix them together apply to nut and bolt, let them dry overnight. See how much Torque it takes to remove the nut. Adjust if more or less Touque is needed. FYI, my cartridge of choice is the 6.5 x 55 Swedish. I have it in a military M38, Howa, and in a Competitor handgun. They are all capable of 1 inch MOA at a hundred.
I also have a 6MMBR barrel for the Competitor. You can really get the full potential of the Sweed with handloads. Thanks for the posts.
Rockset is what you need for sure
What color?
@@lucasnoling7363 vc3 I think, but you should actually probably use rockset, it's better for suppressor use
@@lucasnoling7363 Milky white, the only Rocksett color there is that is used for gun related parts.
The most clearest.🤣
Rock set!!!!!!!!
Think someone said this already but vibratite is what you’ll want to keep thing secure and still be able to remove them.
Feel better soon, Garrett!
I've used plumb bobs with orange string but now my favorite if to use a laser level with a vertical laser...😎
I've been hunting with Berger bullets since John Burns put out his first best of the west long range hunting video. They have never failed me and are insanely accurate in every rifle I've tried them in
Bergers seem to be more accurate for me as well.
Don't forget..Loctite has a shelf life..learned that the hard way with building race motors, buying gallon of it.
And a failure temperature.
It also tends to rip the threads out on disassembly. Be careful with it around fine threads
Just threw out some 20 yr old blue
Im impressed he has a videographer...instead of a camera man.
6.5 PRC, 56.3gr RL-26, 0.030 off, Rem mag primer. 20" Bergara at 2865 f/s. I could get it over 2900 with RL-26 but it opened up a lot. H1000 was very slow and retumbo worked but not as well as Rl-26
I believe the orange lock tight is high strength but you can remove it.
I use scope shield covers on every gun i own. Best for wet environments. Hands down. Look um up. Western Washington, not much wetter in late October and November.
I ordered a set of your turret tags. I’m excited to stick them on once I can validate my drops!
Use Permatex orange thread locker. It's supposed to be "high strength, removable"
Orange locktite doesn't hold as hard as red but is heat resistant. Blue locktite isn't heat resistant. Blue locktite vibrationally is probably strong enough for you, but you're heating it up so it loses its strength. Orange is tougher than blue, weaker than red, and thermally resistant.
Vibra-TITE 213 VC-3 is what i use it doesn't completely harden and holds really well and if you need to adjust you don't need to reapply the loctite
Yep, I got in the comments to also mention Orange Loctite/Permatex thread locker available at your local auto parts store.
@adamlinney4371
Huh, I use vibratite for all my optic mount screws. I didn’t realize it could handle heat.
@@pb7087 its not awesome for heat but good to like 170F so good for hunting or precision where your letting the barrel cool... i wouldn't use it on something your blasting rounds out of but works great for 90% of practical applications
Rockset used very sparingly will hold it but I would use VibraTight for the can.
Vibra-Tite Hot-lock is listed for use on suppressors.
I can't tell what can that is, but if it's HUB thread pattern in the back (1.375" x 24 threads) then you can add a mounting adapter system like Rearden, SilencerCo Bravo, Q Cherry Bomb, etc. Mounting adapters have angular mounting faces that wedge the can on then force it to center straight and not slip during thermocycling like the flat face edges on a direct thread can will. Your solution is a mounting adapter. Then you Rocksett the adapter to your muzzle and use just a touch of moly anti seize on the adapter to suppressor threads once in a while.
I have a Model 10 FCP SR that Ive replaced the stock with a Boyd's At-1 that Ive Pillared and Bedded. Ive put in a Rifle Basix trigger at 10oz. Ive put on a 20MOA rail with a Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56. I have done a Satterly Ladder test and set on a load for 308 using Sierra TMK using VV150 in Lapua Brass. Without many super custom mods I see consistent .5-.6 inch 5 shot groups - in fact the last 6 groups all were between .5-.6". So I'm pretty happy. Even at 600yds it is averaging about 4-5" som i'm happy.
Obviously 4-5" at 600 yards was with almost no wind. 😏
Thoughtful and Very well done!!
It would be cool to see your long range targets freshly painted. (To see impacts).
It was so impressive to see the difference in seating depth.
You are THE Man in this space. We appreciate all you bring to the hunting/precision community. Extremely helpful!
Im going to play with seating depth on one of my most highly favored, yet least accurate, hunting rifles.
Cuz of you.
Thank you Jim
I use Dead Air Keymo mounts, never had one loosen up while shooting.
Peterson brass. PA proud!
Jim
Great content as always
TY
Rockset. It’s made to be a high temp thread locker.
I know this is picky, but according to some experts, like Brian Lutz, set your anti-cant device based on the actual vertical movement of your turret by using a tall target test, in the off chance that your turret and your reticle are not directly in parallel
Best regards from Brazil 🎉
He's like the Al Boreland of the 2A community. Idk why, but it feels like I've known him my whole life, and I want to stand around a grill, watching meat sizzle for hours on end.
todays video is sponsered by binford.
That is some house.... nice job
For muzzle devices: Vibra-Tite 123 Medium Strength High Temp Threadlocker
For everything else: Vibra-Tite 122 Oil Tolerant Threadlocker
Eric Cortina is crying somewhere looking at 30-tau increments of sitting depth testing 🤣
😂😂
Sorry for my ignorance but why would he be crying?
@williamdoffer3744 it doesn't make much difference.
To see what a change does it takes 30-50 test shots to verify.
Wrong... Cortina uses 0.005" changes to find the node
@@kenginter6112 I'm confusing who says what.
Hornady guys say it doesn't really matter. If you shoot enough rounds to burn out barrels just testing, might know what's going on.
Eric has his methods that work for him.
Eric also used to break in barrels, found out it didn't make a difference and stopped.
Clear nail polish as a threadlocker
I'm feeling sick, too, so the angle looks fine. 😬
Just add a little more loctite blue. I use a half a drop on my muzzle brake and its good. If one drop isn’t enough for you try 2 drops and snug it up tight.
If that doesn’t work try a half drop of loctite red.
Try Loctite 290-Green, medium strength-wicks into assembled parts.
680 is high strength and works on oily and hard to glue surfaces.
Unless it's high temp, loctite starts to get soft at about 140F. Heat it up to remove it. Or get some dry ice and freeze it.
Call Loctite tech support. Give those chemical engineers a problem to solve, they like that stuff.
Jim, LOVE your content!!! I know you are a chassis guy and a Tikka guy, but unless I missed it, I haven't see you review the Tikka Tac chassis. Would love to see a review!
Vibratite Hot Lock, or Rockset! better in every way for muzzle devices. You will need to heat it up a little bit with a propane torch to get it off.
Who did Jim murder to get Reloader 26?
where in the world did you get rl 26 some have it but will not reveal source, maybe from the Russian war zone ?
The bubble level definitely changed my perspective on Proper head Placement. What I perceived as straight up and down was way off. 😂
Buddy, every single time I mess with my scope before the hunt I done crapped the bed. Knowing that I still do it. I’m just holding my breath for you now 😂
Here in Northern Alberta shots at a bear are rarely more than 100 yards. Less than 50 yards is not uncommon. The exception being if you spot a bear in the open farmland, usually a grain field.
Use Rocksett for your muzzle devices.
Don’t know about the glue, but maybe index the silencer and barrel with a sharpie or white paint…?
Clear nail polish, vibration proof, but not torch resistant
My Ace hardware guy sold me some orange lok-tite and it's a step stronger than blue, but you can still take it off. Not like red lok-tite
Did anyone notice the roll in clip of the scope was not a leupold but a primary arms.
So if your happy with that load and seat depth, it's possible you can increase accuracy with tighter neck interference...
I like to start a lot closer to jam. I’ve found really good accuracy in my 6mm creedmoor, using 115 DTACS, damn near in the lands!
Rocksett is what you should use on suppressors. Heat will not affect it like blue loctite.
Sets up hard, you have to soak it in water to get it off.
No rocksett directly on suppressors that you intend on removing any time soon. Rocksett on muzzle devices that you don't intend on removing. Especially muzzle devices that are suppressor mounts.
Try orange loctite or mix a little red and blue together on a paper plate and apply with a toothpick.
What rifle were you shooting there?
Plumb bob. Clever solution!
Shine a light through the objective lenses, then with the lights dim, hang a plumb bob near a wall on the eyepiece side of the scope. The crosshairs will project onto the wall and you can level everything up.
@@erickaracsonyi4415 Now that right there is brilliant.
HAHA OMG.... name of the video is perfect!!!! i have the mtn reaper in 7prc and was at the range hit a 2in metal disc at 300y it flipped up and got caught in the board and i could see maybe a 10th of it 2nd shot i hit the little sliver i saw to knock it back down and a friend at the range was like "your right that gun doesn't miss"... absolutely perfect name love mine btw
Love those mt reapers
Yep, you can make a 20-inch shoot close to factory loads. Your velocities with Reloader 26 are very close to mine with 142 ABLR. You got in 2930 range, and my development I got 2940 range. H1000 will get you close to 2900, N565 will get you in 2910. Staball HD can be accurate but slow in 2810 range. That is the powders I have mostly worked with.
I’ve had no luck with staball hd in either my 6.5 PRC or my .280 ai. I’ve made good loads for both using n565 and n560 though
@SammyMoore-tg5gs It is not high up in my list. All the others go before that. Reason I found an ok MOA to 3/4 load is to practice shooting steel out to 600-800 yards most from 300-500. I am simulating hunting shots in field positions. I have 2 or 3 pounds of the good powders, but we know how good powder can disappear, and it might be a year or two before we see more. Staball hd is every place and cheaper , $10 or so, then the high-end stuff. Load also works for coyotes out to 300,400 yards or more. Now my hunting loads are .3 to .6 MOA with good bullets (127 LRX, 142 ABLR with ELDX as last resort). I use the ELDX the most for steel and coyote it is cheaper by far than the other two. But I will probably use 127 LRX for my Buck Antalope hunt this year. Sorry, so long of post, HaHa
Regular old thread tape works
You know you going nuts out there you taking the fun out of hunting
You lucky lucky man to have rl26 power I've got 3150fps for my 6.5 prc 142gr nolzer accubond long range 24inches baller with rl26 powder
I think Ol Jimbo has been hitting the weights. Looking spry Bud.
Gay
So how do you compensate for the differences in elevation and air temperature from where you are dailing in your rifle and where you will be hunting?
Jim, love your channel and your ethics! I have an older Remington 270 that shoots fairly well using both factory and hand loads...would I gain much by buying a 6.5 PRC? I live in Northern Utah, and hunt mule deer with the occasional elk all depending on the draw...I also have a Browning BAR lever in .308 with shoots quite well also...comments?
Use vibra tite for a better lock tite.
Just watched the Ultimate Reloader video on the Mossberg. I hope you give an HONEST review of the "fix". It is now just a "tactiCOOL" turd.
Use red high strength it’s NOT going to hard to take it off when needed
Where in the world did you find reloder 26? That is the hardest powder to find!! This is the funnest part of reloading finding the perfect recipe😊
I've seen reloder 26 on gunbroker, and that's the ONLY place that I've found it. Brace yourself for the price. I have abandoned Alliant powders altogether. Don't care how good it is supposed to be. If you can't get it, it doesn't matter.
Soooo, what you are saying (at 7:00) is that if I have a 10 shot group, I should take the 5 that are the farthest apart and measure them, then take the 5 that are closest together and measure them, then average the two groups, and that is the group size of the 10 shots?
The b roll for the scope was for a primary arms
When do we get a Backfire Backstop for a Remington 870 or Mossberg 500? Seems like a no-brainer.
.030, .060, .090 is where you started to develope a load? That’s quite the bullet jump! Myself I would have started .020 or .025 and then changed .003 at a time. Where did you lay your hands on some RL-26?
I am surprised you haven’t locked your mag in at the “target 1 300 yard” clip.
What gun is this bud? Looks fancy
Great video 👍 beautiful rifle 😎
3 shots isn't a group. 5 is!
locktight Red /White
Where’s the link for the water bottle 😳
DISCLAIMER
Turret Tags are NOT lottery tickets!
I know they kinda look like that.. but you won't win money or a limited draw on a hunt
They are though...
Excellent using on your turret for setting DOPE!
You should try Lehigh controlled kaos bullets
Yes turret tags hurry up and send to Australia
what rifle is that?
You’re great at reading titles. Jesus.
How much Re26 were you using with the bergers?
How accurate are those apps? I still think an old fashioned dope card is best?
Use the apps to make the cards
Run a ballistic rangefinder like the gunwork's br2 paired with a cds dial. Deadly combination.
1:46 did you mean to put a picture of the PA GLX when talking about the leupold
Warm Root Beer lol.
26 nosler better or 6.5-300
Clear finger nail polish.
Jim I found some ammo that I think is yours. I must have picked it up at the range Thursday bison hunt thinking it was my 308. It’s 7prc. How can I send it to you?
What what ?? You’ve never hunted with a Berger bullet? Imp Berger & Lapua are the only options.
Rockset
What rear bag is that? I need one for my MDT HNT 26 chassis
6.5. That is enough said.
what gun is that ?
Looks like the fierce mtn reaper
Fierce mountain reaper
I know right?! I wish he would say it more often.... I mean, how hard is it?
It would be nice to see 20-30 shots superimposed lined up with zero to get enough statistical data to be sure what is actually happening. Or in other words, take 10 three shot groups (with cooling) and superimpose them. I'll be that 0.3 MOA gun is more like 1.0-1.5 MOA over 20 or 30 shots, but I would be curious to see.
Agreed. I have a custom rifle built on a trued Rem700 action in .280 ai, and it can shoot tiny little 3 shot groups. However, when I shoot four 5 round groups at the same target, I get about a 0.8-1.5” group depending on the load. Currently using 180 gr eld-ms over N570 and am getting 0.87” groups with a mean radius of 0.324”.
Other than a big heavy precision rifle with a thick boi barrel and high magnification scope, almost no one with a sub 10lb rifle can shoot a 10 shot group and stay MOA. I know, some can do it, but 95% of hunters with their man portable hunting rifle cannot. Hornady kind of started this discussion a while back with their video series on shot group data, and now you have popular channels like Polenar and Forgotten Weapons discussing as well.
@@jimyeats my rifle with scope weighs 8 lbs 3oz and has a Proof research full sendero carbon fiber barrel. Sure, I shoot more than the avg hunter, 2000-2500 rnds a year and 10’s of thousands of dry fire reps, but it is only because of that practice that I am confident out to 700 yds on game.
Objectively, the mean radius measurement makes the most sense for measuring groups as it shows you the avg miss distance from point of aim in your cone of dispersion.
@@SammyMoore-tg5gs That could be barrel heat as well. I am not referring to 5 shot groups, but shooting enough 3 shot groups with cooling in between and then superimposing the groups. Or just shoot a 20-30 shot group, with adequate cooling every 3 shots to eliminate the issue with barrel heat. I'll bet once they are superimposed, the overall group is much larger because it would also include any point of impact shift.
@@jimyeats "almost no one with a sub 10lb rifle can shoot a 10 shot group and stay MOA" That's not what I am suggesting. I am suggesting shooting a 3 shot group and then allow the barrel to fully cool. Repeat that 10 times and see what you get. This will also show any point of impact shifts that will affect extreme spread. 3 shot groups taken independently don't show the whole story. It eliminates point of impact shifts. Take all of the 3 shot groups and combine them. Probably won't be anywhere near 0.3". As hunters we need to determine the probability of making a hit at a particular range. We need a minimum of 20 shots over a longer time period to know for sure. Doing this over several days with different conditions would be even more accurate.
As RUclips removes the ability upload firearms related videos, where can we find you?
Backfire.tv/ballistics to sign up for the email. Backfire Plus. Twitter @backfirejim. Instagram @backfirejim
3 hundredths doesn't sound as cool as 30 thousandths... I'm going to start using that.
Since when does RUclips not allow reloading? Johnny's reloading bench has literally over 100k subscribers
Did you chrono the different loads?
What ear protection are you using?