Another great video, Waldo. I have a few suggestions for you. 1). try to run all your wiring inside of the tubes with that plastic spiral sheathing. 2) Add a couple spot lights to the headache rack. Hooking up trailers and strapping things down and checking straps at night can be a rough deal without great lighting. 3) Everywhere you run wire/wire looms through the aluminum use a grommet with silicone calk in the grommet channel. This will help keep the grommet in place and keep the hole you drilled for it from corrosion. 4) Once you know exactly where the fuel tank/tool box is going, add gussets to the headache rack. They will save you in the long run... 5) Wire in a few lights and switches for wheel well lighting. I used to haul cars cross country. I've had a few flats and other issues in some pretty dark places where well lights would have saved my ass in a big way.. 6) Emergency flashers are one thing, but strobe lights are a far cry better.. People know what is what for miles before a hazzard flasher.. Day or night!!!
Hey Waldo, here is another viewer who is very grateful for the metric measurements, that makes it much easier to size the pieces or thicknesses. Looking forward for the next video. Be safe, much love from Chile 🇨🇱 !
Looks great so far. I have lots of flat beds and I would like to mention one thing that would give a lot of strength to the headache rack. It needs to be gusseted to the bed or it will break the welds as they tend to shake back and forth.
Waldo my man you are one of my favourite people to watch on RUclips. Every time you share your videos I get excited like A kid in a candy store. After watching your videos I got me a mug/tig welder. You inspire me to work on my own trucks and do it the way I want it to look. Thank you for sharing with us. As always really enjoy your wonderful work. Much love from Vancouver 🇨🇦
I started out as a commercial mechanic, I then did drive for a bit. My class A has been the most valuable thing I’ve kept over the years professionally and personally. Unfortunately I’m across the country or I’d be more than willing to help you out. Having as few restrictions as possible is definitely helpful. Good luck, Waldo!
Maybe I said it before, but it's great that you include measurements for metric. For us that don't use thumbs and feet and other body parts for measuring 😄
At least it isn't as bad as Discovery Channel units of measurement using Olympic swimming pools, football fields, elephants and empire state buildings. But yeah.
I remember some of your early more mechanical videos and wondering if you were going to survive with all of your digits intact, lol. I have to say, as your channel has progressed, I believe you are unafraid of taking on, most any project that would be beyond most people, no matter how talented they might be. The combination of your demeanor, resourcefulness and thoughtful planning, coupled with your respect for the nature of what you are doing, safety and ability to correct for mistakes make you one of the best youtube artisans, that I follow. Never uppity or "I know best", always humble and apparantly willing to learn and grow along with leading us, to do the same with you! I hope that you document and copywrite your material and produce it in some manner for future generations of hobbyists to industrialists for their productions? You are building valuable prototypes that many can learn from, use for templates and fashion their own skills from! I hope you continue to find useful projects that are relevant to the hobbyist, hauler, farmer and most everyone. Thank you, sir! When are you breaking ground for the ultimate mechanical/weldshop?
Thank you so much! As for ground breaking, I have to improve the road to get to the shop first. I hope to buy a large excavator this year and start moving some of the huge boulders that are in the way 😂
Knowing when you think the viewer has scene enough of one thing and using time lapse is essential to a successful channel, your editing was spot on, kept me interested.
Looks sharp. Nice job. You have great fabrication skills. A little advice: Although aluminum is strong, it is very prone to cracking (especially when it is in a high-vibration service life, such as a vehicle). Aluminum does rust, it’s in the form of aluminum oxide. This oxide layer gives aluminum anti-corrosion properties. You should remove the oxide before welding as it will contaminate the weld with hydrogen (which can cause cracking, especially on 6061). This oxide layer also melts at 3-times the temperature as the aluminum itself, so it makes welding easier to remove the oxide prior to welding. Wire brush the weld joints with a stainless wire brush to remove the oxide and clean all oil and chemicals off with acetone or isopropyl alcohol prior to welding. Do not use a grinder or saw that has been used on plain carbon steel. Cross contamination can cause weld defects and/or cracking. Fill your craters at the end of each weld. Craters can crack. Aluminum does corrode when it comes in contact with certain elements. It can react with plain carbon steel (the reaction is called electrolysis). The nylon washer between the chassis and aluminum frame is a good move, but it would be wise to swap out your grade 5 or 8 steel washers and fasteners with stainless steel washers and fasteners. Welding 6061 aluminum with 5XXX-series filler wire is generally stronger, although most welders prefer the ease and look of 4XXX-series wire. 6061 can be annealed prior to welding and heat treated after welding for some increased strength characteristics. Hope this helps you and anyone else welding aluminum in the future. Again, very nice work. That’s a better fabrication job than a lot of the “professional” fabricators I’ve worked with. Can’t wait for the next video.
I have a Lincoln 360mp and love the pulse on pulse for welding aluminum. I run the hot start feature for about 3-4 seconds at 25% over set voltage so the weld isn't as cold starting out. and crater fill for finishing the welds. Nice looking flatbed.
Hello Waldo, I've built 3 flat beds in my life, all with treated lumber. I had 8ft 4x4's bolted to the frame rails then 4 6ft 2x4's screwed across the 4x4's. Then 8ft 2x6's screwed to the 2x4's. I think you should have put the bed slats the other way to help shed water. Love the videos keep up the good work and God bless and stay safe.
Who dosent want an aluminum flat bed!? Wow what a great video. Such a confidence builder. Thanks so much for your work on the video. Fancy machine indeed. Looks well worth every Penny
As a project while learning to TIG a few years ago. I made something like your Headache rack out of 90mm Aluminium round tube for a mates 70 series Landcruiser Ute. He lives on a large, remote station (farm) in Aus. We put two fillers on the top and taps on either side under the tray. One side filled with water, mainly for the dogs and handwashing, the other side for spare diesel. held 20+ litres each side and the weight was right up front. Worked a treat. (Not sure about how roadworthy it would be. And I guess we don't have the whole freezing thing to worry about.) I have to get one of those Pulse MIGs! Great video Waldo thanks. 👍
30:39 ich really think it would have been a good idea to incorperate the whole wheelarch into your flatbed. This would really help to protect your flatbed and your frame from all the stuff thrwohn up by the tires....
Thanks for the great content. I used to build these via steel, and yes, they will rust, but customers were not willing to opt for expensive aluminum. ( some even opted for no paint on the units to save a few bucks ). Good to see you insulated the hold-down bolts to prevent electrolysis corrosion to the aluminum frame. I will also say, as good as your welds appear, if the structure is heavily stressed in some areas, the welds will likely crack. Seen it a hundred times. It's one reason I opt for steel. Your design is excellent and the truck looks well proportioned.
Great video, touched on a lot of what makes aluminum welding different than welding carbon steel. The trickiest thing I have found with welding Aluminum is how well it conducts heat: you can start a weld with one power setting and end it with a fraction of what you started because of just how much heat transfer takes place between the just-cooled filler and the rest of the workpiece. Also, good thinking using the nylon washers between the steel truck frame and the aluminum flatbed 👍
Great build, I had a 1993 3/4 ton chevy. I always wanted to replace the toolbox bed with a flat bed on it. Wish I would have never sold it. 😣 Can't wait to see it finished.
👍Waldo, that truck & new aluminum bed looks awesome! And you stole that truck too! Great price for a good ol Chevy-GMC! SCORE!!! Good video sir! Great look!
the aluminum flat bed looks amazing , GReat job !!! full aluminum bed it is a challenge for us !!! the material is lightness, so the idea that how it will be strong was great !!
I remember Peter being on Chucke2009s channel years ago. I'm glad he's back on RUclips but he seems to be condensing his longer videos into like 5 to 10 minutes, where they used to be long format like yours. So glad I found this channel. I love watching stuff like this take shape from nothing
That remote is specifically for Aluminum. The idea is getting started is always the hard part on aluminum and takes the most heat. Even when TIG welding Aluminum you start out with your foot pedal maxed and back out of it once you establish your puddle. So you set the machine high for the start and run that adjustment maxed at your starts then lower once you make your puddle and run your weld. Preheating your starts is always very helpful in achieving the same exact thing without that adjustment. Its the same idea as the foot pedal on TIG machines. That machine is really nice for a MIG based Aluminum Machine. I've not got to use one myself but, ive heard really good things about them. I still think i would be more comfortable with a Foot Pedal on that machine if thats possible instead of the switch since I'm already so used to TIG welding. My only question is that a push-pull gun on that machine? Thats what is normally on Aluminum MIG machines but, all the ones ive ever run (Miller) are MUCH bigger than that gun so it doesn't look like a push-pull gun but, if it is thats the smallest form factor ive ever seen on one and makes that an even more badass machine. If its not a push-pull gun then the lead must be really nice and stiff or something because thats the problem with running aluminum wire on normal MIG machines (Which you can absolutely do otherwise) is the wire will bind up in the liner far too easily especially if you dont keep the lead line perfectly straight as possible at all times. Thats why you run Spool Guns instead on those machines.
its an 8.5 ft push only gun with a special carbon graphite liner ... works absolutely flawless ... I have run over 150 rolls of aluminum wire though nine and I can count birds nest and feeding issues on 2 hands ....
@@ZILAwelds I was wondering the same thing as the first guy. Thanks for the answer. I'm guessing that you don't want to run steel wire through the same liner or it will contaminate future aluminum use?
@@Lucas12v most people buy 2 welding guns with the machine ... ( to buy the 2nd one cost you roughly $150) .... the aluminum one has a special liner and special gas delivery system for good gas coverage when welding aluminum. the steel gun is just plain old ... no thrills .... the remote control you could attach to either one .... (for steel I dont see why you wold need it ) ..... crosscontmination is somewhat of a concern - but feedablilty is the bigger concern .... the carbon graphite liner in the aluminum gun is a lot softer than the spiral steel liner int he steel gun ... and if you would feed steel though the aluminum gun you'd be wearing it out way too quick ... and if you feed aluminum through the steel gun - well ... it does not like it much
@@ZILAwelds makes sense. I do a lot more aluminum tig than mig but that's partly because i don't like my spoolgun that much. Nothing wrong with it, i just don't like cold starts and no pulse on my machine. Maybe I'll pick up one of these someday.
@@Lucas12v for 10 years !!!! 95% of my aluminum work was AC tig .... and 5% spool gun off an engine drive .... for 6 or 7 years I have pulse mig machines now .. Lincoln and HTP and now 88%+ of my aluminum welding is (pulse) mig 10% tig (only if it as to be for looks or maximum control) and 2% "other" spool gun off engine drive or aluminum stick welding in the wind outside. its such a time saver !!!! and most of the time for my kind of jobs I dont need the perfect stack of dimes tig look .... a good "commercial weld" is just that ... good enough 9/10 times for what I do ..... now if a guy does a bunch of motorsports stuff ... intercoolers, boost piping, blow off valves, intakes .... sure ... there is BIG $$$$ in that and the cars are often "show cars" and people are willig to pay for that look ..... semi truck fenders, flatbeds, fuel tanks, water tanks ... etc ..... my customers dont want to pay for the looks .... and I want to get it done and go home ....
I made a new flat bed for my '65F100. I used 6061 alum. Used 4"x2" channels on top of the steel truck frame. Used 2"x2" alum angles bolted to truck frame (three per side) that bolted to the 4"x2" channel. Next... 3"x2" channels bolted to the 4"x2" crossmembers. I then had a 1/4" alum. plate (28"x 72" ) that went behind the cab (on top of the cross members). Then had 3 pieces of 5/8"x 9" A-36 plates cut for the sides & back. In the opening that was caused by the 1/4" alum in the front, the two sides & the back...I had a piece of 1/4" A-36 plate cut to fill in the opening. About 52" sq. as I remember. I wanted to lighten the fab table up. So, using 1/4" plate was the ticket. Welded the three sides to the 1/4" plate. Doing so there was minimum warping. Can bend 1/4"x3" flat bar into a 90. I clamp the piece down very well. Wear ear protection, to form the part. Nearly forgot...made a rack so cutting bottles could be brought along when needed. I am pleased with how it turned out. It serves me well.
Love the videos Waldo! That welder your using is nothing I have ever scene before great shots of weld I’ll be getting one shortly! Keep up the great work buddy!
Another great addition to Brandon! Can’t wait to see the end result of the aluminum flatbed! Also, are you gonna cut a hole in the aluminum floor for your gooseneck ball? Keep up the great work!!
I took my CDL exam in an automatic Freightliner (look for a rental in your area, such as Ryder, etc.) and a trailer.. That'll get you your CDL-A with auto restriction. Then, while still on your CLP (do NOT pick up your CDL license at DMV yet), schedule the test in your manual pickup and gooseneck (26001+GCVWR). Once you've passed both, THEN go get your actual CDL license at the DMV. This is how I did it. It gave me easy tractor-trailer accessibility, and then retesting in my Ram dually and 30k gvw gooseneck cleared the auto restriction. I also tested Tanker and doubles. Only thing I missed was HAZMAT. If you pick up your license prior to getting the manual exam, you'll have to re-permit for the manual.. it's a PITA.
Waldo my man, you're killing it. Each vid is better than the previous one. You're flirting with 100k and I'm glad to say that I've been here since before 10k. At 1M you need to have a meet & greet at a bar in Manchester, I'll be there!!! (Billy's would be cool...).
As usual, FANTASTIC video Waldo! Your attention to every level of detail, from planning, execution, camera angles, editing and commentary are second to none! Your vids are not only entertaining, they’re very informative. I can’t wait for the next one!! Keep them coming!!!
Now this comment is on your bed. You really did a fantastic job again. I didn't think you could out do yourself again. I really enjoy watching you work. You remind me of myself that I won't stop until it's right that matter what the temperature is. I saw your propane heater I think that's a must-have if you don't have a heated garage. I'm actually thinking about what you did. You bought a truck got yourself a good super price and went on from there. I want to step up to a diesel pickup truck but majority of them have rusted out beds as you know from being on the East Coast as myself. I had been considering yes to remove the bed itself and build something like you have. Buying and already made one cost way too much and you cannot really customize it to what you want. Well I guess you could but I don't think anybody wants a chop up and weld want something that cost that much. Look forward to your next video. As always I made sure I hit the like button.
@@WaldosWorld If there is a place in your area that does it, have a look into Arc Sprayed Zinc Coating. It has very similar corrosion resistance to hot dip but with none of the issued associated with hot dipping like warping and having to drill at least two vent holes in every closed section which then allow water in in the future etc. Unfortunately I'm down in New Zealand so can't recommend a supplier to you. Just did a quick search and it looks like it is referred to as Thermal Sprayed Zinc in the US. Cheers from NZ.
Wow that looks great even if it not finished! That's awesome looking and while I have a small Nissan Hardbody I'm day dreaming about a bed like that on my little trucky.
Fantastic work!! And I’m always impressed by the aesthetics of your videos. Quality filming and editing without unnecessary goofiness like some other content creators.
Hi Waldo, 👋🏼 I know you built the bed out of aluminium so you didn’t have to paint it but i think the bed would look awesome match painted to the truck.
Ahhh how I used to love cutting 6061 extrusion. I did it at an industrial level, used to set up my machine and chill out reading magazines until it was time to move the material lol.
Ya.. your the big hoss is town now lol. They all gonna know what that bed is and respect. Love it, cause it will naturally build a one of a kind tarnish. Can’t wait to see it in a couple years. One of a kind
Hey Waldo what part of New Hampshire are you from I’m a granite state local myself and am very interested in where u went to pick up that beautiful truck for so cheap! Also I love your vids and so does my whole welding class, I am a welder in training and I love me some aluminum work!
Waldo keep in mind the headache rack has to prevent damage to the cab in case of gooseneck jack knife. Maybe test swing a gooseneck hitch at the sides to simulate a jack knife situation. With u being on snow, icy roads.. that's a thing you'll kiss your headache rack for saving.
Hey. I’m a fellow truck driver. I got my cdls last year just in time. I’ve got a friend that had their permit when the law changed. They had to end up going to school to finish the rest of their cdl. Good luck on yours.
Thanks! The NH DMV says that I'm grandfathered since I got my permit before the deadline. If I let it expire before getting my CDL, then I'd have to attend the class
Great idea putting those nylon washer in. You might consider an additional insulating washer under the head of the bolt. Put a metal washer on the bolt first, then the insulating washer. Add a bit of plastic tubing around the bolt diameter. Maybe a bit of pex tubing. Using nylock nuts will avoid loose nuts as the washers relax over time.
I'm glad you changed to the wood drop saw. As a general rule of thumb; you pretty much treat aluminium as if it's wood when cutting. You can use a skill saw, table saw and a router for the edges too!
Hey man. GM magna worker again. Super cool to see this method of “mig” aluminum working being done. Hour factory just got (2years ago) of one fords contacts to build their new lightening or electric battery box tray. Huge boy it is! 60% length of the truck.. so no off reading. Anyhow we have all new robotic welders for the staple welds, but still manual is a must and touch ups have to happen. I like how you both mention the temp, BOY did I try to tel them lol it’s usual a hot 35c in the factory, but winter brings a cool 18c and that’s enough to cause issues, at least to some of the employees 3day weld training skill lol no it’s tricky and the biggest thing is heat, and as you say, to hot and you have to really know how to move your you’ll melt through and damn is that so much more of a pain then steel. The other issues though, so you know if you ever weld in the summer of extreme heat, the softness off the feed. Aluminum as you know is very soft compared to steel and it was a bitch in hour summer temps for the first year, the wire would bird up and knot easily in the feeder. There is a extra tool you can get to help the feed at the gun. If your interested give this a shout and I’ll give you our product or if you want to just look it up. Either way, everyone thought mig welding aluminum was going to be so easy lol now did I show them! Lol OH!! On a side note, my fav thing about welding aluminum over steel, I love that perfect white fireworks over the orangy yellow, it’s like, elegant… ya my eyes burn lol
I appreciate the comment! You're the one who told me some interesting stuff about the frame (in my rusty frame repair video), right? It's really awesome to get the inside scoop! 👍
Wow this was an awesome video. I was excited by the video title itself, as truck bodies are an interest of mine, and I wished you did an Aluminum version of your flatbed in the back of my mind for a long time. You over-delivered this time, and read my mind (but really, you were just doing you, and built something you wanted; lol). What a pleasant surprise for me the viewer. AND what a great guest segment. Never heard of such machine for aluminum. AWESOME
I hope you don't mind a few tips from an Industrial Maintenance tech: 1 Use cutting oil with your drilling and cutting tools when working with aluminum. They will last much longer. 2 They make a wax that comes in a grease tube. You use it on your saw blade to lubricate it when cutting aluminum. We use it on our saws and the blades last forever that way. 3 When you are welding multiples of the same thing, (especially when heat matters) lay out as much as you can, and spread the heat with multiple passes. For example, when you welded the squares on the side of the bed and the round stock to the rub rail, you can jig up as many as possible, then make one weld on each, going down the line. Then you come back and make another weld. So on and so forth until you have all of the sides welded.
Awesome build. Definitely took notes. I want to build almost this exact setup, except with out the bottom being boxed. As someone else noted, definitely put some gussets on the headache bar.
FYI guys, any regular wood miter saw with a TCG (tri-chip grind) style blade will 100% cut aluminum far better than a "dry saw" for steel simply because the RPMs of the two are totally different. Aluminum, while a metal, is still much softer so a standard saw with 3200-3500 RPMs is ideal (with proper blade). Dry cut saws, either industrial, or like the new popular Evolution or Slugger brands, have much lower RPMs in the 1500-2000 RPM range and need a carbide or new cermet blade specifically designed for steel. And if you're going to bend aluminum, especially harder aluminum when it's cold, you should definitely pre-heat it. After talking about pre-heating necessities earlier in this video I can't believe you didn't Waldo!
This is great and the rear lights add an extra level of quality that is oh so professional, plus the wheel flares. All very nice and can't wait to see the next instalment. @Steve 1961P's comments below sound great, too. If you're going to add any internal boxes I'd illuminate these, too. LED strips are simple and effective for these and can be added to the loom on your 'wider' lighting or on micro switches on the lids, but more work, or glue in some velcro for battery lights or pieces of steel (yes, I know) for magnetic lights. The Oz 4wd wheeling channels are full of good ideas as their canopy camping is legion in this area. Keep up the great work!
Allways exited whenever a new video from you is out Waldo! And that you include metric measurements for us living outside USA is great, thanks! Cant wait to see the next. Keep up the great work :)
Nice build! I have a new truck on order and I want to build my own flatbed out of aluminum. I plan to take the box off get it all heavy tacked together. Then remove and put the bed back on while it gets finished. I have never built a flatbed before so this video helped me visualize what I need to do thanks!
The htp machines are really top shelf in my opinion..I want one of there tig machines and one of the big mig machines..they have settings for silicon bronze and all manor of weld wires..really advanced stuff..
Just wanted to let you know as well those grommets you are using for your lights invite alot of road debris to collect on the wiring connections. Grote and truck light make the same size rubber grommets that are fully enclosed for those lights to protect the back of them.
Years ago I went on a road trip in a friend's van. The doors didn't shut right, and we were tired of the wind noise, so we tried to make drip rails from duct tape. Seemed like a great idea until we got up to speed and the tape started flapping in the wind. I mention this because the duct tape beating itself against the A pillar sounded exactly like your pulse welder!
Impressed with every video! Not to mention your fabrication skills! Being so many of your videos are done outside how do you account for any potential wind washing away your shielding gas? Keep up the great job so fun to watch! I've learned a ton!
Thank you! I typically turn the gas up and avoid welding during high winds. There are (rare) times when the wind will get me and blow away the gas and then I have to stop welding and clean up a mess
The bed looks great! I am amazed by your fabrication skills every single video. I do think you need to “level” your tow mirrors so they aren’t pointing up to the sky
33:09 that was not the welder making that noise Waldo 😳
🤣
Made me giggle so hard then I saw your comment 😂
who stepped on a duck?
I read this comment exactly at that time stamp when Waldo tried to cover up his fart with the welder.
💨 😂
Another great video, Waldo. I have a few suggestions for you. 1). try to run all your wiring inside of the tubes with that plastic spiral sheathing. 2) Add a couple spot lights to the headache rack. Hooking up trailers and strapping things down and checking straps at night can be a rough deal without great lighting. 3) Everywhere you run wire/wire looms through the aluminum use a grommet with silicone calk in the grommet channel. This will help keep the grommet in place and keep the hole you drilled for it from corrosion. 4) Once you know exactly where the fuel tank/tool box is going, add gussets to the headache rack. They will save you in the long run... 5) Wire in a few lights and switches for wheel well lighting. I used to haul cars cross country. I've had a few flats and other issues in some pretty dark places where well lights would have saved my ass in a big way.. 6) Emergency flashers are one thing, but strobe lights are a far cry better.. People know what is what for miles before a hazzard flasher.. Day or night!!!
Thank you for the tips!
Headache rack gussets. Yes. Yes. Yes. 1000x yes.
Great advice
Wheel well lighting is genius.
If you don't have one, a backup camera would be great to have on that truck.
Hey Waldo, here is another viewer who is very grateful for the metric measurements, that makes it much easier to size the pieces or thicknesses. Looking forward for the next video. Be safe, much love from Chile 🇨🇱 !
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback!
Looks great so far. I have lots of flat beds and I would like to mention one thing that would give a lot of strength to the headache rack. It needs to be gusseted to the bed or it will break the welds as they tend to shake back and forth.
6:34 Nice door!!! Next project should really be a new door for the workshop.
I know, right? 😂
Nahhh old one works fine aint broke don't fix it 😂
@@WaldosWorld That's for part 3?
Waldo my man you are one of my favourite people to watch on RUclips. Every time you share your videos I get excited like A kid in a candy store.
After watching your videos I got me a mug/tig welder. You inspire me to work on my own trucks and do it the way I want it to look. Thank you for sharing with us. As always really enjoy your wonderful work. Much love from Vancouver 🇨🇦
That's awesome to hear! Thank you! 🤠
Waldo, immense respect for your talent! Great work! Love your content!
Thank you so much! 🤠
When cutting aluminum with a power saw, there is a candle like stick of lubricant that you use on the blade
I started out as a commercial mechanic, I then did drive for a bit. My class A has been the most valuable thing I’ve kept over the years professionally and personally. Unfortunately I’m across the country or I’d be more than willing to help you out. Having as few restrictions as possible is definitely helpful. Good luck, Waldo!
I appreciate it! 🤠
Maybe I said it before, but it's great that you include measurements for metric. For us that don't use thumbs and feet and other body parts for measuring 😄
At least it isn't as bad as Discovery Channel units of measurement using Olympic swimming pools, football fields, elephants and empire state buildings. But yeah.
😂
I appreciate the feedback! I've been making an effort lately because comments like yours have made me realize how many metric viewers I have 👍
feet is the best way to go man
@@WaldosWorld You mean the rest of the world other than America :) 😜
PETER ZILA IS THE MAN! He is one of the finest teachers on welding skills and how to use your new welder.
lol
thanks
I remember some of your early more mechanical videos and wondering if you were going to survive with all of your digits intact, lol.
I have to say, as your channel has progressed, I believe you are unafraid of taking on, most any project that would be beyond most people, no matter how talented they might be.
The combination of your demeanor, resourcefulness and thoughtful planning, coupled with your respect for the nature of what you are doing, safety and ability to correct for mistakes make you one of the best youtube artisans, that I follow.
Never uppity or "I know best", always humble and apparantly willing to learn and grow along with leading us, to do the same with you!
I hope that you document and copywrite your material and produce it in some manner for future generations of hobbyists to industrialists for their productions? You are building valuable prototypes that many can learn from, use for templates and fashion their own skills from!
I hope you continue to find useful projects that are relevant to the hobbyist, hauler, farmer and most everyone.
Thank you, sir!
When are you breaking ground for the ultimate mechanical/weldshop?
Thank you so much! As for ground breaking, I have to improve the road to get to the shop first. I hope to buy a large excavator this year and start moving some of the huge boulders that are in the way 😂
Knowing when you think the viewer has scene enough of one thing and using time lapse is essential to a successful channel, your editing was spot on, kept me interested.
I appreciate the feedback! Thank you!
Looks sharp. Nice job. You have great fabrication skills.
A little advice:
Although aluminum is strong, it is very prone to cracking (especially when it is in a high-vibration service life, such as a vehicle).
Aluminum does rust, it’s in the form of aluminum oxide. This oxide layer gives aluminum anti-corrosion properties. You should remove the oxide before welding as it will contaminate the weld with hydrogen (which can cause cracking, especially on 6061). This oxide layer also melts at 3-times the temperature as the aluminum itself, so it makes welding easier to remove the oxide prior to welding.
Wire brush the weld joints with a stainless wire brush to remove the oxide and clean all oil and chemicals off with acetone or isopropyl alcohol prior to welding. Do not use a grinder or saw that has been used on plain carbon steel. Cross contamination can cause weld defects and/or cracking.
Fill your craters at the end of each weld. Craters can crack.
Aluminum does corrode when it comes in contact with certain elements. It can react with plain carbon steel (the reaction is called electrolysis). The nylon washer between the chassis and aluminum frame is a good move, but it would be wise to swap out your grade 5 or 8 steel washers and fasteners with stainless steel washers and fasteners.
Welding 6061 aluminum with 5XXX-series filler wire is generally stronger, although most welders prefer the ease and look of 4XXX-series wire.
6061 can be annealed prior to welding and heat treated after welding for some increased strength characteristics.
Hope this helps you and anyone else welding aluminum in the future.
Again, very nice work. That’s a better fabrication job than a lot of the “professional” fabricators I’ve worked with. Can’t wait for the next video.
@34.00 Dynahoe waving in the background. Stunning fabrication job! Good luck with the driving test!
Thank you! Yeah, Dino is probably going to be stuck there for a while because it is SOOO muddy right now 😂
Exceptional project from so many aspects. Separate turn signal and brakes lights are very useful and should be the rule.
Yeah, I love having separate amber turn signals. That plus having LEDs are really nice for safety and visibility 👍
I have a Lincoln 360mp and love the pulse on pulse for welding aluminum. I run the hot start feature for about 3-4 seconds at 25% over set voltage so the weld isn't as cold starting out. and crater fill for finishing the welds. Nice looking flatbed.
When you a "special guest", you got the best!
Waldo, you never disappoint. I am definitely one of your "needy" video groupies. ;-) I very much look forward to your future videos
Thanks Bill! 🤠
Same here man love the content
Hello Waldo,
I've built 3 flat beds in my life, all with treated lumber.
I had 8ft 4x4's bolted to the frame rails then 4 6ft 2x4's screwed across the
4x4's. Then 8ft 2x6's screwed to the 2x4's.
I think you should have put the bed slats the other way to help shed water.
Love the videos keep up the good work and God bless and stay safe.
Everyone is an expert
@@chucklamantia3067 so you thin you are one too , lol
@@TomMack530 Expert Medical Witness
Who dosent want an aluminum flat bed!? Wow what a great video. Such a confidence builder. Thanks so much for your work on the video. Fancy machine indeed. Looks well worth every Penny
Good work Waldo,your barn door makes me laugh,those pesky beavers ey...... :) Watching from downunder...
As a project while learning to TIG a few years ago. I made something like your Headache rack out of 90mm Aluminium round tube for a mates 70 series Landcruiser Ute. He lives on a large, remote station (farm) in Aus. We put two fillers on the top and taps on either side under the tray. One side filled with water, mainly for the dogs and handwashing, the other side for spare diesel. held 20+ litres each side and the weight was right up front. Worked a treat. (Not sure about how roadworthy it would be. And I guess we don't have the whole freezing thing to worry about.) I have to get one of those Pulse MIGs! Great video Waldo thanks. 👍
30:39 ich really think it would have been a good idea to incorperate the whole wheelarch into your flatbed. This would really help to protect your flatbed and your frame from all the stuff thrwohn up by the tires....
Thanks for the great content. I used to build these via steel, and yes, they will rust, but customers were not willing to opt for expensive aluminum. ( some even opted for no paint on the units to save a few bucks ). Good to see you insulated the hold-down bolts to prevent electrolysis corrosion to the aluminum frame. I will also say, as good as your welds appear, if the structure is heavily stressed in some areas, the welds will likely crack. Seen it a hundred times. It's one reason I opt for steel. Your design is excellent and the truck looks well proportioned.
man, this man doesn't miss. love the flatbed! headache rack looks hella good and the 4 recessed diagonal lights is killlerrrr. great job waldo!
Gotta ask, from an Aussie, why do you call it a headache rack? 🤔🇦🇺 Down here, the closest term I can think would be roll bar
Great video, touched on a lot of what makes aluminum welding different than welding carbon steel. The trickiest thing I have found with welding Aluminum is how well it conducts heat: you can start a weld with one power setting and end it with a fraction of what you started because of just how much heat transfer takes place between the just-cooled filler and the rest of the workpiece.
Also, good thinking using the nylon washers between the steel truck frame and the aluminum flatbed 👍
Thank you!
That remote looks like it should be a standard option for an aluminum welding rig
Great build, I had a 1993 3/4 ton chevy. I always wanted to replace the toolbox bed with a flat bed on it. Wish I would have never sold it. 😣 Can't wait to see it finished.
Thank you!
👍Waldo, that truck & new aluminum bed looks awesome! And you stole that truck too! Great price for a good ol Chevy-GMC! SCORE!!! Good video sir! Great look!
Thank you so much!
the aluminum flat bed looks amazing , GReat job !!! full aluminum bed it is a challenge for us !!! the material is lightness, so the idea that how it will be strong was great !!
Fantastic content ! Well filmed as usual ! Iv never seen so much alloy welded so well , an education Waldo thank you so much for sharing !!
Thank you so much Steve!
I used to watch these videos for ideas for my truck, now I just enjoy the videos. Great work.
Glad to hear it!
Fantastic video Waldo. Everything was filmed and explained spectacularly. Awesome build!!!
Thank you so much!
I remember Peter being on Chucke2009s channel years ago. I'm glad he's back on RUclips but he seems to be condensing his longer videos into like 5 to 10 minutes, where they used to be long format like yours. So glad I found this channel. I love watching stuff like this take shape from nothing
Same, I also remember him on ChuckE's channel. Imagine my surprise when he reached out to me for a collab! 😂
@@WaldosWorld you're a bad ass brother. I'm not surprised at all
You really making me want to do this to my truck. Im only missing a few things...tools, time, money and talent. That bed is looking great so far.
ok- maybe I help you weld too .... LOL
@@ZILAwelds I would surely take all the help I could get!
Thank you! I'm sure you can do it!
Peter Zila, the best aluminum welder on RUclips and making a career of guess staring with other RUclipsrs! Love this informative video, thanks.
well at least I play a good aluminum welder on RUclips .... LOL
@@ZILAwelds 😂
That remote is specifically for Aluminum. The idea is getting started is always the hard part on aluminum and takes the most heat. Even when TIG welding Aluminum you start out with your foot pedal maxed and back out of it once you establish your puddle. So you set the machine high for the start and run that adjustment maxed at your starts then lower once you make your puddle and run your weld. Preheating your starts is always very helpful in achieving the same exact thing without that adjustment. Its the same idea as the foot pedal on TIG machines. That machine is really nice for a MIG based Aluminum Machine. I've not got to use one myself but, ive heard really good things about them. I still think i would be more comfortable with a Foot Pedal on that machine if thats possible instead of the switch since I'm already so used to TIG welding.
My only question is that a push-pull gun on that machine? Thats what is normally on Aluminum MIG machines but, all the ones ive ever run (Miller) are MUCH bigger than that gun so it doesn't look like a push-pull gun but, if it is thats the smallest form factor ive ever seen on one and makes that an even more badass machine. If its not a push-pull gun then the lead must be really nice and stiff or something because thats the problem with running aluminum wire on normal MIG machines (Which you can absolutely do otherwise) is the wire will bind up in the liner far too easily especially if you dont keep the lead line perfectly straight as possible at all times. Thats why you run Spool Guns instead on those machines.
its an 8.5 ft push only gun with a special carbon graphite liner ... works absolutely flawless ... I have run over 150 rolls of aluminum wire though nine and I can count birds nest and feeding issues on 2 hands ....
@@ZILAwelds I was wondering the same thing as the first guy. Thanks for the answer. I'm guessing that you don't want to run steel wire through the same liner or it will contaminate future aluminum use?
@@Lucas12v most people buy 2 welding guns with the machine ... ( to buy the 2nd one cost you roughly $150) .... the aluminum one has a special liner and special gas delivery system for good gas coverage when welding aluminum. the steel gun is just plain old ... no thrills .... the remote control you could attach to either one .... (for steel I dont see why you wold need it ) ..... crosscontmination is somewhat of a concern - but feedablilty is the bigger concern .... the carbon graphite liner in the aluminum gun is a lot softer than the spiral steel liner int he steel gun ... and if you would feed steel though the aluminum gun you'd be wearing it out way too quick ... and if you feed aluminum through the steel gun - well ... it does not like it much
@@ZILAwelds makes sense. I do a lot more aluminum tig than mig but that's partly because i don't like my spoolgun that much. Nothing wrong with it, i just don't like cold starts and no pulse on my machine. Maybe I'll pick up one of these someday.
@@Lucas12v for 10 years !!!! 95% of my aluminum work was AC tig .... and 5% spool gun off an engine drive .... for 6 or 7 years I have pulse mig machines now .. Lincoln and HTP and now 88%+ of my aluminum welding is (pulse) mig 10% tig (only if it as to be for looks or maximum control) and 2% "other" spool gun off engine drive or aluminum stick welding in the wind outside. its such a time saver !!!! and most of the time for my kind of jobs I dont need the perfect stack of dimes tig look .... a good "commercial weld" is just that ... good enough 9/10 times for what I do .....
now if a guy does a bunch of motorsports stuff ... intercoolers, boost piping, blow off valves, intakes .... sure ... there is BIG $$$$ in that and the cars are often "show cars" and people are willig to pay for that look .....
semi truck fenders, flatbeds, fuel tanks, water tanks ... etc ..... my customers dont want to pay for the looks .... and I want to get it done and go home ....
I made a new flat bed for my '65F100. I used 6061 alum. Used 4"x2" channels on top of the steel truck frame. Used 2"x2" alum angles bolted to truck frame (three per side) that bolted to the 4"x2" channel. Next... 3"x2" channels bolted to the 4"x2" crossmembers. I then had a 1/4" alum. plate (28"x 72" ) that went behind the cab (on top of the cross members). Then had 3 pieces of 5/8"x 9" A-36 plates cut for the sides & back. In the opening that was caused by the 1/4" alum in the front, the two sides & the back...I had a piece of 1/4" A-36 plate cut to fill in the opening. About 52" sq. as I remember.
I wanted to lighten the fab table up. So, using 1/4" plate was the ticket. Welded the three sides to the 1/4" plate. Doing so there was minimum warping. Can bend 1/4"x3" flat bar into a 90. I clamp the piece down very well. Wear ear protection, to form the part.
Nearly forgot...made a rack so cutting bottles could be brought along when needed.
I am pleased with how it turned out. It serves me well.
Love the videos Waldo! That welder your using is nothing I have ever scene before great shots of weld I’ll be getting one shortly! Keep up the great work buddy!
Thank you so much!
I don't know what camera setup he's using to show work at the puddle, but it's pretty damned good.
Sooo satisfying to build something for yourself. I can almost feel the pride pulsing through the computer screen.
Great build!
Are you worried about the ends of the extruded aluminium planks being unsupported and bending?
Thank you! I'll be welding the ends of the planks in part 2 👍
Looking good Brandon!!
Another great addition to Brandon! Can’t wait to see the end result of the aluminum flatbed! Also, are you gonna cut a hole in the aluminum floor for your gooseneck ball? Keep up the great work!!
Thank you! Yep, that's for part 2 👍
I took my CDL exam in an automatic Freightliner (look for a rental in your area, such as Ryder, etc.) and a trailer.. That'll get you your CDL-A with auto restriction. Then, while still on your CLP (do NOT pick up your CDL license at DMV yet), schedule the test in your manual pickup and gooseneck (26001+GCVWR). Once you've passed both, THEN go get your actual CDL license at the DMV. This is how I did it. It gave me easy tractor-trailer accessibility, and then retesting in my Ram dually and 30k gvw gooseneck cleared the auto restriction. I also tested Tanker and doubles. Only thing I missed was HAZMAT.
If you pick up your license prior to getting the manual exam, you'll have to re-permit for the manual.. it's a PITA.
Put some candle wax on your saw blades and hole saws to keep the aluminum from binding to them.
Waldo my man, you're killing it. Each vid is better than the previous one. You're flirting with 100k and I'm glad to say that I've been here since before 10k. At 1M you need to have a meet & greet at a bar in Manchester, I'll be there!!! (Billy's would be cool...).
Thank you! I'll have to think about the meet & greet 👍
As usual, FANTASTIC video Waldo! Your attention to every level of detail, from planning, execution, camera angles, editing and commentary are second to none! Your vids are not only entertaining, they’re very informative. I can’t wait for the next one!! Keep them coming!!!
Thank you so much!
Now this comment is on your bed. You really did a fantastic job again. I didn't think you could out do yourself again. I really enjoy watching you work. You remind me of myself that I won't stop until it's right that matter what the temperature is. I saw your propane heater I think that's a must-have if you don't have a heated garage.
I'm actually thinking about what you did. You bought a truck got yourself a good super price and went on from there. I want to step up to a diesel pickup truck but majority of them have rusted out beds as you know from being on the East Coast as myself. I had been considering yes to remove the bed itself and build something like you have. Buying and already made one cost way too much and you cannot really customize it to what you want. Well I guess you could but I don't think anybody wants a chop up and weld want something that cost that much.
Look forward to your next video. As always I made sure I hit the like button.
Thank you so much! 👍
Waldo, are you going to paint the steel flatbed you did? Really like the videos, just eager for more content!
I'm planning on getting it hot-dip galvanized. Hopefully this year 😂
@@WaldosWorld If there is a place in your area that does it, have a look into Arc Sprayed Zinc Coating. It has very similar corrosion resistance to hot dip but with none of the issued associated with hot dipping like warping and having to drill at least two vent holes in every closed section which then allow water in in the future etc. Unfortunately I'm down in New Zealand so can't recommend a supplier to you. Just did a quick search and it looks like it is referred to as Thermal Sprayed Zinc in the US. Cheers from NZ.
Wow that looks great even if it not finished! That's awesome looking and while I have a small Nissan Hardbody I'm day dreaming about a bed like that on my little trucky.
Fantastic work!! And I’m always impressed by the aesthetics of your videos. Quality filming and editing without unnecessary goofiness like some other content creators.
Thank you so much!
Your attention to detail and workmanship is astounding, Great channel you have and its grown a lot since i first subscribed.
Thank you so much!
Hi Waldo, 👋🏼
I know you built the bed out of aluminium so you didn’t have to paint it but i think the bed would look awesome match painted to the truck.
Ahhh how I used to love cutting 6061 extrusion. I did it at an industrial level, used to set up my machine and chill out reading magazines until it was time to move the material lol.
Any plans to prevent galvanic corrosion where the aluminum and steel meet?
Nylon washers
Nylon washers
Nylon washers
Nylon washers
Nylon washers
Ya.. your the big hoss is town now lol. They all gonna know what that bed is and respect. Love it, cause it will naturally build a one of a kind tarnish. Can’t wait to see it in a couple years. One of a kind
Haha thanks! It is pretty cool having a unique build 👍
You got a free welder with the purchase of a whoopee cushion ;-)
Waldo, you don't even disappoint! You always nail it on exceptional craftsmanship and ability to learn!
Thank you! 🤠
Hey Waldo what part of New Hampshire are you from I’m a granite state local myself and am very interested in where u went to pick up that beautiful truck for so cheap! Also I love your vids and so does my whole welding class, I am a welder in training and I love me some aluminum work!
That's awesome! I got the truck at a Copart auction down in MA 👍
Waldo keep in mind the headache rack has to prevent damage to the cab in case of gooseneck jack knife. Maybe test swing a gooseneck hitch at the sides to simulate a jack knife situation. With u being on snow, icy roads.. that's a thing you'll kiss your headache rack for saving.
That came out great. I wish I had that welder.
They sell them! usaweld.com/products/pro_pulse_220_mts
Hey. I’m a fellow truck driver. I got my cdls last year just in time. I’ve got a friend that had their permit when the law changed. They had to end up going to school to finish the rest of their cdl. Good luck on yours.
Thanks! The NH DMV says that I'm grandfathered since I got my permit before the deadline. If I let it expire before getting my CDL, then I'd have to attend the class
FINALLYYYYY!!!!!
I know, right? 😂
Knowing how I cut with a jig saw, I was nervous watching you cut the tail light holes and the fender holes. That takes skill!
Good job Waldo! Let's go Brandon!
Great idea putting those nylon washer in. You might consider an additional insulating washer under the head of the bolt. Put a metal washer on the bolt first, then the insulating washer. Add a bit of plastic tubing around the bolt diameter. Maybe a bit of pex tubing. Using nylock nuts will avoid loose nuts as the washers relax over time.
Yes. The single washers under the bed was not enough isolation - still going to have galvanic action under the bolt/washer.
Look forward to every video brother! Keep it up! Let’s go Brandon!
Thank you! Let's go!
I'm glad you changed to the wood drop saw. As a general rule of thumb; you pretty much treat aluminium as if it's wood when cutting. You can use a skill saw, table saw and a router for the edges too!
never clicked so fast. keep up the videos Waldo! let’s go brandon!
Thank you! 🤠
Love that a NH guy builds cool stuff !!!! Great Job on all your projects...
Thank you!
I found Waldo!!!!
Hey man. GM magna worker again. Super cool to see this method of “mig” aluminum working being done. Hour factory just got (2years ago) of one fords contacts to build their new lightening or electric battery box tray. Huge boy it is! 60% length of the truck.. so no off reading. Anyhow we have all new robotic welders for the staple welds, but still manual is a must and touch ups have to happen. I like how you both mention the temp, BOY did I try to tel them lol it’s usual a hot 35c in the factory, but winter brings a cool 18c and that’s enough to cause issues, at least to some of the employees 3day weld training skill lol no it’s tricky and the biggest thing is heat, and as you say, to hot and you have to really know how to move your you’ll melt through and damn is that so much more of a pain then steel. The other issues though, so you know if you ever weld in the summer of extreme heat, the softness off the feed. Aluminum as you know is very soft compared to steel and it was a bitch in hour summer temps for the first year, the wire would bird up and knot easily in the feeder. There is a extra tool you can get to help the feed at the gun. If your interested give this a shout and I’ll give you our product or if you want to just look it up. Either way, everyone thought mig welding aluminum was going to be so easy lol now did I show them! Lol OH!! On a side note, my fav thing about welding aluminum over steel, I love that perfect white fireworks over the orangy yellow, it’s like, elegant… ya my eyes burn lol
I appreciate the comment! You're the one who told me some interesting stuff about the frame (in my rusty frame repair video), right? It's really awesome to get the inside scoop! 👍
Just to let everybody know I finally found him
Can't wait to see how you detail the Gooseneck ball area.... This looks Amazing..
You’re running out of trucks to flatten
Time to hit the auctions again!
It's funny you mention that because I'll be attending an auction shortly, hoping to buy another truck 😂
@@WaldosWorld How about a dump feature on the next flatbed?? Something I’ve wanted to do with mine for a while
@@WaldosWorld And won’t be mad if you got like an old surplus H1 humvee truck, ram powerwagon or a unimog- go nuts
Well done Waldo ,I really like the wheelwell lip " thumbs up "!
Get ALL your endorsements…!!! Better to have and not need!!
Good call!
Wow this was an awesome video. I was excited by the video title itself, as truck bodies are an interest of mine, and I wished you did an Aluminum version of your flatbed in the back of my mind for a long time. You over-delivered this time, and read my mind (but really, you were just doing you, and built something you wanted; lol). What a pleasant surprise for me the viewer. AND what a great guest segment. Never heard of such machine for aluminum. AWESOME
Finalllllyyyyyyyy Let’s Go Brandon!
Let's go!
I hope you don't mind a few tips from an Industrial Maintenance tech: 1 Use cutting oil with your drilling and cutting tools when working with aluminum. They will last much longer. 2 They make a wax that comes in a grease tube. You use it on your saw blade to lubricate it when cutting aluminum. We use it on our saws and the blades last forever that way. 3 When you are welding multiples of the same thing, (especially when heat matters) lay out as much as you can, and spread the heat with multiple passes. For example, when you welded the squares on the side of the bed and the round stock to the rub rail, you can jig up as many as possible, then make one weld on each, going down the line. Then you come back and make another weld. So on and so forth until you have all of the sides welded.
Let’s go Brandon!
Let's go!
Awesome build. Definitely took notes. I want to build almost this exact setup, except with out the bottom being boxed. As someone else noted, definitely put some gussets on the headache bar.
FYI guys, any regular wood miter saw with a TCG (tri-chip grind) style blade will 100% cut aluminum far better than a "dry saw" for steel simply because the RPMs of the two are totally different. Aluminum, while a metal, is still much softer so a standard saw with 3200-3500 RPMs is ideal (with proper blade). Dry cut saws, either industrial, or like the new popular Evolution or Slugger brands, have much lower RPMs in the 1500-2000 RPM range and need a carbide or new cermet blade specifically designed for steel. And if you're going to bend aluminum, especially harder aluminum when it's cold, you should definitely pre-heat it. After talking about pre-heating necessities earlier in this video I can't believe you didn't Waldo!
This is great and the rear lights add an extra level of quality that is oh so professional, plus the wheel flares. All very nice and can't wait to see the next instalment. @Steve 1961P's comments below sound great, too. If you're going to add any internal boxes I'd illuminate these, too. LED strips are simple and effective for these and can be added to the loom on your 'wider' lighting or on micro switches on the lids, but more work, or glue in some velcro for battery lights or pieces of steel (yes, I know) for magnetic lights. The Oz 4wd wheeling channels are full of good ideas as their canopy camping is legion in this area. Keep up the great work!
You clearly have too much enthusiasm and skill…. I envy that. Great video!
This truck is going to be a BEAST once it's done!
Allways exited whenever a new video from you is out Waldo! And that you include metric measurements for us living outside USA is great, thanks! Cant wait to see the next. Keep up the great work :)
Thank you!
Loved this faster build.
Nice build! I have a new truck on order and I want to build my own flatbed out of aluminum. I plan to take the box off get it all heavy tacked together. Then remove and put the bed back on while it gets finished. I have never built a flatbed before so this video helped me visualize what I need to do thanks!
Very nice looking bed waldo. Everytime i watch your vids makes me want to do more to my project. Cant wait for part 2
Thanks! Glad to be a source of inspiration!
The htp machines are really top shelf in my opinion..I want one of there tig machines and one of the big mig machines..they have settings for silicon bronze and all manor of weld wires..really advanced stuff..
Just wanted to let you know as well those grommets you are using for your lights invite alot of road debris to collect on the wiring connections. Grote and truck light make the same size rubber grommets that are fully enclosed for those lights to protect the back of them.
This Channel is so underrated! Every viedeo is made extreamly high end!
I appreciate it!
Love this build. One thing I suggest adding to this truck is Air Lift air bags 7500xl series. Love the videos.
I've been fabricating with aluminum for a few years, for a 12" saw the 80T blades are the best/cleanest cuts I've gotten!
Wow that's some job, well done 👍
underrated channel!
Years ago I went on a road trip in a friend's van. The doors didn't shut right, and we were tired of the wind noise, so we tried to make drip rails from duct tape. Seemed like a great idea until we got up to speed and the tape started flapping in the wind. I mention this because the duct tape beating itself against the A pillar sounded exactly like your pulse welder!
Impressed with every video! Not to mention your fabrication skills!
Being so many of your videos are done outside how do you account for any potential wind washing away your shielding gas?
Keep up the great job so fun to watch! I've learned a ton!
Thank you! I typically turn the gas up and avoid welding during high winds. There are (rare) times when the wind will get me and blow away the gas and then I have to stop welding and clean up a mess
The bed looks great! I am amazed by your fabrication skills every single video. I do think you need to “level” your tow mirrors so they aren’t pointing up to the sky