Building a SNOW PLOW for my Truck. Is it Cheaper Than Buying One?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 25 фев 2022
- I build a snow plow for my truck. Lots of welding and fabricating involved.
A Rural Vermonter: / @aruralvermonterqqjmcb182
Comfortable, DURABLE welding gloves: amzn.to/3eIr7tT
Mag drill: amzn.to/39GKmnj
Annular cutters for mag drill: amzn.to/3IuOTcm
Instagram: / waldowelds
Any purchases you make using the links provided help to support the channel at no extra cost to you! As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
Авто/Мото
Hell yea 🇺🇸🦅 lots of fun to learn and work with ya!
It's been a pleasure 👍
the new England crossover I didn't know I needed
@@PlatinumGoose64 for real
Are you a new boyfriend too? It's way cool if you are.
When mounting your cutting edge put grease between the mating surface that way they don't rust together and it makes it easy when you flip the cutting edge to get twice the wear from it. A trick my first father in law taught me works great.
Thanks for the tip!
I’d say anti seize every bolt too
Haven’t watched thee whole video yet but if he used a carbon steel cutting edge it won’t stick to the plow. Have removed many of them that had been on for years and they come off like it’s day 1. Carbon steel edges are the industry standard for snow plows in Waldo’s New England area found on Fisher plows. Fisher plow being the best light-heavy duty plow ever made.
@@ronfrance4041 you sound like a fisher salesman lol
@@FlyinRaptorJesus haha! I wish, well not really. My family has been using fisher plows for 35 years. They are just reliable and the engineering plain and simple works and makes sense. We’ve even converted old fisher plows into road graders, welded fisher trip edges to excavator blades solid so we could have $120 replaceable 5/8” carbon steel cutting edges.
If you have 2 chains instead of one, when you pick it up it will always be level and it won’t fall to either side when your driving on the road. It will also be less stress on the one chain. Other than that, excellent job once again Waldo!
Interesting, thanks!
I've reskinned plows before.......best way I've found to curve the mull board to the frame after tacking it on one side, was to use 2 plastic 55 gal. smooth sided barrels end to end and lay the plow over them with ratchet straps wrapped around it all and pull the frame down over them. The circumference is about spot on and it works like a charm
Nice 👍
I'm a retired union sheet metal worker and no longer have access to rollers.
My minute mount 1 has rot holes but everything else is solid. My mm2 everyday use is an x blade. I don't know what's up with it it's starting to jerk while I raise it so I have to go back to my mm1 until I fiqure out why it's screwed up. I'm going to cut the scoop out and reskin it next week and your comment just saved me from having to use a sheet metal break and giving it a mild bend every inch to radios it. Your comment is going to save me a lot of trouble ty
Put a bottle jack on the skin, wrap a chain all the way around, and start jacking, it’ll push the skin into place
On your Plow down function you notice in the video at around 58.40 that because you don't have a "Float" Function in your down travel it leaves the cyl locked in wherever you let off the down button. When going over small ground elevation changes this can cause the plow to liftoff the ground. There are a few ways to solve this issue, 1) hold the down arrow all the time the plow is down and you are plowing. 2) install a Latching, holding relay inline with that sol causing it to basically hold power on to that sol until interrupted. 3) and easiest is to place a large ish spring in the lift chain with some slack. When you lift the plow the weight will overcome the spring, take the slack out the chain and lift the plow. When you press down hold for an extra sec and the tension in the spring will pull the Cyl down an extra few inches causing a makeshift float function. Overall great build.
@Waldo's World, Not sure if it was mentioned yet but since your driveway is dirt/gravel like mine you may want to consider a piece of round stock that is the length of the plow and weld 2 tabs like tge shoes have and mount it where the "shoes" mount using the washers to keep the cutting edge ¼-½ off the ground. This will not only clean much better but glide over the dirt and gravel and prevent tripping the plow and it won't dig in and you will not leave piles of gravel and dirt everywhere. The pipe you used on the back of the plow is perfect to use. Trust me you won't regret it. I have been doing this for 30 years on my plows that see dirt/gravel lots. My pop showed me this trick in the 70's.
Thank you again so much for bothering to pop up the metric equivalent of Gauge & inches measurements. Most of us (Brits) have a rough clue about Gauge (the older amongst us know inches as we used them widely up until the 70s) but the immediate metric visual aid is warm and cosy. Love the channel. 🇬🇧
To stop the rat's nest issue with your annular cutter try pecking the bit. Drill and stop. Drill and stop. This allows the bit to cut some material and then breaks the long strip into short pieces. Cutting straight through like you are leaves the long continuous strips that get wound onto the bit. Its a technique we use on CNC mills to both keep bits cool and stop rat nesting to bit. That keeps eh coolant from being able to get through unless you have tool cooling. It doesn't look like you do. Some mags come with it.
Thank you Waldo for this long-awaited upload! I am excited to watch and enjoy this tonight with my dinner 🍽! Thank you for all your hard work
I appreciate it!
Just a heads up, they give you two nuts with the eye bolts for the trip springs so you can sandwich the mounting plate with them one below the plate and the lock washer and second nut on top.
I literally just came here to say this 👍
My plow has what's called the float function. Where in the downward dump stays on for a period of time. that way the plow stays on the ground during uneven terrain like cresting a hill. Good feature
Just a FYI for feature reference. You should protect the crome rods of your hydrolic cylinders when welding around them. If you accidentally damade the crome plating you can test up the seals. And the rod will have to be re-cromed or Cylinder replaced
About the unicycle, once you learn you never forget. I rode a kid and after 50 years of not riding I picked up a 36" road unicycle. About a year ago I did a 100 mile day on it. Good exercise.
Been sick this week and been watching many of your vidz. Great fab work! Most plow owners manuals say that the plow A frame needs to be flat or angled up slightly toward the plow. This is so when your pushing snow, it's pushing straight into the truck and if it's angled up slightly it will be pushing the truck down in the front, giving you more steering traction. They way you have it set up it will be lifting the suspension, giving you less steering capability and traction.
One idea I had, make an extension cord for the controller so you can leave that part run from the cab to the pump. This allows you to leave that cord alone and just disconnect the controller in the cab and then connect it directly to the pump when you are attaching and removing the plow. Also, when you wire the lights, you want to have a switch to direct power from the truck lights to the plow lights; this keeps the truck lights from reflecting off the back of the plow into your eyes. It may not seem like a lot of light but when driving or plowing at night, it can be quite a distraction.
Advise for your plow on gravel , we welded a round pipe under the front and the rocks slide over top instead of digging into the pads. Makes a smoother driveway.
As a industrial mechanic, i have a little tip, you are not suppossed to use teflon tape on hydraulic, in many cases the teflon will break (in the end part that is nearest the oil) and get out in the system and could cause a problem
Use the plow feet on gravel or you'll end up plowing all the top surface off to the sides. A bare plow blade is fine for asphalt/concrete surface.
Common plowing etiquette says to keep your snow on your property. Try not to plow it into the neighbor's yard/ditch or across the street.
Very nice build- I really enjoyed watching!
In my state (Michigan) it’s actually illegal to push snow across the road.
@@kenglazier6398 it is illegal in most Northern states but most drivers do not seem to care. They definitely leave huge messes here in NY and I mean dangerous messes.
some small advice I can lend most plow pumps don't work properly with atf as its to thick they use the blue -50 rated fluid, for quick power disconnect use an Anderson plug they work fantastic, give your chain a little more slack if you find it lifting when you crest a hill, if you have trouble with the plow digging in to hard or chattering the a frame should ideally be parallel to the ground, yours seem pretty close and being a custom build it may be fine, and for a disconnect stand check out the fisher minute mount system they are simple and functional, over all good work love the vid as always never disappointed.
Thanks for the tips!
No problem I looks like it worked really well
The Milwaukee markers (Markzall) appears as red on darker surfaces and black on lighter surfaces. The red is really easy to see and follow.
Tip
To make a plasma cutter curve guide.
Get two strips of flat bar that is a bit springy and can be flexed into a curve but will straighten back.
Fold the ends over to 90^ about an inch or so from each end. Drill holes to bolt the two straps together to make a box shape.
Now you can wedge bits of wood between the two straps to make it curve to the degree you require.
You can make the guide with one strap and string or wire or wood as the back strap also but using two identical bits of strap means you can flip one around to double the length.
Using bit of wood to spread the straps allows the curve to be adjusted along the length.
A little trick to do when hooking up (same can be done with trailers as well as loading equipment on trailers) is to set the parking brake while you are still in gear b4 putting it in park to keep the truck from rolling that little inch.
Waldo, you’re a freaking genius. Your videos are several notches above all the other fabrication videos. Keep them coming
My 2 cents, the lights directly above the plow are only good for turn signals for on coming traffic. Put a large light bar on top of the cab with magnets. It allows for light to get further out and increase visibility.
Man you knocked it out the park I'm a snowplow guy and you did just fine!! Great build built better then a lot of the junk us snowplow guys pay for you know exactly what went into it 👍
Thank you! 🤠
Id recommend a Anderson plug for the positive and negative cables for easy detachment
Thanks for the tip!
Definitely second the recommendation. Works for snow plows and similar for winches too.
I was gonna leave this until morning to watch but i cant not watch a Waldo video, something about Waldo and his videos are just amazing. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much, you're the best! 🤩
Rural Vermonter! Love the crossover. Keep it up, guys.
Thank you! 🤠
Hey Waldo, what a great job! Even if you buy a use one. Most are in very bad shape for cheap. I know cause I have done that. Like you, I've never had a plow Before. Buying 9.2 Boss V plow for 400 dollars. I really didn't know what I bought. It's RT2 mount which they never made an undercarriage for my truck. It was bent and so rusted out it was pretty much just crap. Like you figured to make it work. So like you almost completely rebuilt it. But I didn't do enough research. On the Boss plows the pin height from the ground is very important for the right tilt of the plow blade. So right now the rebuild is in limp mode LOL. I have to totally remake my undercarriage. Like You, I have 1600 into my build. There would be no way to touch Boss V Plow for that kinda cash. Where you spend is time! for sure. I really enjoy your videos, they are put together really well. If you want to look at my channel my build is on detailisretail. My video aren't any where as good as yours. Fact I lost lot of footage cause my gopro 7 would only record 2 min at the end of the build and I didn't know that. I've let have come up with a solution for my lost footage. Love your stuff keep of the good vids.
Awesome. Just awesome. Just when I think you’ve gone to the brink of self designed fabrication projects you blow me right out of the water again. Keep it up love watching you design , layout, and put the wire to it !
Thank you so much! 🤠
First love your plow! In my area(Minnesota), a new plow straight blade plow is around $8500.00 plus install. Used ones are almost impossible to find. So if a person has the skills you do, it could be built for around a 1/4 of the price. Very impressive.
Having plowed snow all my life, remember to push snow as far back as you can, because once your pile sets it’ll take a front end loader to move it.
Came here to say that. I'm in NE Washington and used plows worth a darn start at about $3000 IF you can find one. A new plow of this grade would be about $8000 for a 3/4 ton truck and up to $12,000 or more for a heavier duty commercial unit that you'd put on a F550 or Ram 5500
Use a trailer jack for a stand when its off the truck. Most of the equipment i use have removable ones, not the bolt on style. You'll get better at plowing over time, the big thing to think about is the crown of the road. The angle of the truck was changing and lifting the plow
this is bad ass...i installed and wired a meyer plow on my f150 and i thought that was fairly difficult and these guys are building plows ...next level..
I have the same mag drill and my first use for it was to drill over 300 holes through a piece of 3/4" plate I was using for my fixture table. No regrets. I was tempted to get a more expensive one but this one is awesome.
Mag drills rock 😎👍
Awesome project! Blade pivot is a nice touch. Using two chains to lift, spaced about 6" apart at the quadrant will keep the blade level when you lift, even with the plow angled. I would suggest that the quadrant of the plow needs to mount lower on the truck too. It should be closer to level with the blade on the ground. With it angled down like it is, you'll be pushing down on the plow pretty hard when you're pushing snow, and that will cause the blade to trip more easily than it otherwise would. Pretty nice plow overall!! Next project: Plow wings!! :)
As a retired mechanic with 43 years in heavy duty truck repair I can say that the two of you have great skills! The other thing I like about your site in reading the comments your viewers offered great constructive advice on how to make your plows better. Not the usual bickering that occurs on some sites. Were they responders act like a bunch of experts. One other thing about being in Vermont I'm quite envious of all the land you have to keep your project vehicles an equipment. As a lifelong resident of the San Francisco Bay Area we could only dream of having that much space. On the other hand, I don't envy you working in the snow. Anything below 55° and my body doesn't want to work anymore. Really enjoy your videos.
Having some amber warning lights would look awesome
Its nice to build stuff your own and then works really good
Great looking plow you have there. If I may make a suggestion about the angle of the push arm that's bolted to the truck frame, is that you may find the truck wanting to drive up over the blade at times when you push into hard packed snow or when you go over small hills and come back down. I built may blade much the same as yours and when my cable broke on the winch for lifting the blade, the blade dug in to the ground and the truck catapulted up over the blade, leaving the front wheels of the truck hanging in the air. I was pushing to high up on the back of my blade and at the wrong angle from the truck mount to the blade. My neighbor has a western plow blade on his truck and after looking at how it was designed, I saw where I went wrong on fabbing up the the main mount on the truck. His entire frame is only 6 inches or so off the ground and he's pushing near the bottom of the blade where it's designed to fold forward if the blade hits a solid object and not destroy the blade and the frame. Just some food for thought if your chain should snap on the hydraulic lift. I have since re-did mine and now the blade doesn't try to go under the truck and that's a great feeling...lol.
You sir, are crazy talented.
You're too kind 😂
Love your content Waldo. Also wanted to say, that as someone not from America I really appreciate that you add metric measurements in your videos
Before I read comments so if someone already said it, sorry.
Just an FYI, you can put that excess strap through the ratchet part: you can get a bit more leverage!
But still great video!!!
I just had a similar scenario. Getting a front loader mounted snow plow was going to be about 2k, found a plow for 400, made my own plate to attach to the front end loader. Viola, saved 1500 bucks. The steel for the plate was scrap laying around the yard.
Greetings from Quebec!
Outstanding work! I like it! However, according to my experience, I highly recommend to plug your installation on a second battery (deep cycle) isolated with a 12v solenoid and one adequate fuse to protect the truck. Otherwise, I see some troubles any soon with of the main battery of the vehicle, over solicited .
Best regards!
I appreciate the tip!
What trroubles should occur with the battery? That hydraulic pump should pull far less than the starter motor, more like a winch, but it's duty cycles are far less then these of a winch. If your battery can't handle these loads, there seems to be a fault with it or your wiring.
:-D
@@WaldosWorld also they sell plugs connector plugs for the wiring for east connecting and disconnecting of the power (BUNKER INDUST 175A 1/0AWG Battery Quick Connect Wire Harness Plug Kit)
A snow plowing tip. Always plow the snow from the inside out, that is away from your buildings and vehicles, fences and gates by angling the blade to build the row of off fall. Plow away from abuttments like hills that border the road where the snow has no place to fall off. I will typically start a row right down the center on a wider road, then plow to either side and make several passes. Always wait for the ground to freeze or your blade will become a bull dozer and remove all your road gravel. Back blade smaller amounts, then cross plow it away a bit at a time. Spray your blade with silicone with Teflon to prevent snow and ice from sticking. Charge your battery after long periods of plowing just to make sure it's fully charged for the next day, especially in really cold temps. That's so your truck will always start! I'm in Michigan where it gets pretty cold also. Lubricate all your pivots on your blade and the quick connect surfaces to keep them free of ice and moving freely. Tape your electrical wires to prevent water from entering and corroding the connections. Die electric grease is great for this on connectors. Electrically heated mirrors are great for snow plowing. Do not leave ruts of snow pn the roads. It may be illegal to plow snow across a public road. Go back and forth to get rid of any snow you leave on the road. Get a bright LED emergency light for the top of your truck, which also may be required on a public road.
Beautiful work and good design on the snow plow, Waldo!
The pivot point is a good idea to help conform to the ground you can see it working when you plow nice job it looks better than red or yellow like the orange
The collab we didn’t know we needed, Great video!
Thank you!
Just remember to keep plow angled as much as possible, it's less wear and tear on the truck as far as the weight being pushed . It needs to keep rolling off the blade as much as possible
I always used snow plow hydraulic oil it protects against freezing up from moisture and it seems to always find its way in the fluid and it doesn’t matter how new the plow is
Awesome build.. You saved a ton of money over a brand new one and yours is brand new and you get the satisfaction of building one.
Waldo Nice job , just a suggestion, if you make a tracing template from 3/4 plywood or MDF you can plasma cut very round holes and all the ribs would be uniform, you would be amazed how precise a part you could make by tracing a well made template… love the Chanel..
Thanks for the tip!
Exactly what I was thinking Pete. Waldo you can make an easy template by seeing what your tip offset is when cutting along a guide and then making your template that much smaller all the way around. Then make the hole that same amount larger and you will be able to cut pieces that need 80% less grinding and fitting. It’s not CNC but it’s clean.
Good work. But from experience the plow frame should be more level lower where the pins are that mount the plow to the frame. Won't dig in as much and floats better
Agreed. The push frame should be neutral when the truck and ground are level.
He could loosen his springs too, so it will trip easier, until he gets used to floating it with the controls and not digging so hard.
@@calholli that wouldn't help, like, at all. He'd be pushing a tripped plow into the ground even more
@@mwilliamshs It would help him learn how to float the plow better-- because he could get more feedback on what is happening. What we've done it the past is cut the tread off of old tires and sandwich it behind the lower blade and let it hang down an inch or so-- so you have that rubber as your first contact. It gives a little cushion with the digging. It doesn't last if you're rough with it though.
@@calholli nah making the plow easier to trip via reduced spring preload isn't helpful at all. He needs to lower the frame mount and lengthen the chain. Better than cut tires is conveyor belting.
Building your own plow is a huge savings. A system by fisher and others is well over $4,400.00 installed. I paid for a fisher minute mount stage 1 in 1999 $4,400.00 in put on by a dealer. . Food for thought. If you have Waldo's welding skills it's well worth doing it your self.
Wow, nice job! I really can't believe you built that whole thing. I used to plow many years ago with Western and Meyers plows on my trucks and never imagined building one.
Awesome video, I absolutely had no idea quite how much engineering went into a snow plow, and did not expect to be so entertained. I'm gonna make one for my tractor now
Definitely wanna make sure to lower that lift cylinder all the way down. I’m guessing that pump doesn’t have a float position for the lift cylinder. If you only drop it till the plow touches the ground it won’t allow it to drop lower if needed due to incline/terrain changes. Great build though!
Congratulations you're now the first person on everyone's speed dial whenever it snows lol! Fun video, I never thought of making my own plow but that was very informative.
Painting tips. The etching primer is good. You can also get bulk industrial black paint from most tractor supply stores. You can usually get it by the gallon, cheap enough, but many places have it in 2.5 or 5 gallon containers. Try to avoid brushes. Stock up on 4 inch foam or felt rollers. You can find them cheap and they give the best finish if you cannot spray. We could not always spray because of surrounding vehicles or buildings. We always found that you can roll it faster because it applies thicker.
When making multiple pieces, you could use a piece of plywood as a cutting guide. Should speed things up a bit and they all should be of consistent size and shape.
Hell yeah! Loved this one, especially the long format, but can't wait for the next episode! LET'S GO BRANDON!!!!
Looks great and is totally functional, well done my friend, and we were all beginners at one time. Stay warm
I must say you are not afraid to tackle any project.If I didn’t see you build it.It looks as good as a commercial build plow.Good job
This winter was my first with an ATV plow, and I can sympathize with the learning curve! I did my driveway about 8 times and every time was a different method. You kind of learn as you go, and it eventually gets smooth and consistent.
Plow looks great! Certainly awesome to see it in action.
Thank you for make my day with a new video. Great work!
Thank you! Have a great day!
I watched the whole video didn’t really think about how long I’ve been watching. Maybe 20 minutes and holy cow it was a whole hour I didn’t even notice
You should have the A frame level when the blade is down so you can stack snow better and if it catches an edge its much easier on the truck when the blade trips
If you find yourself plowing fast enough that snow blows over your windshield, you can add a rubber flap across the top of the moldboard and that will fix it right up. You may also want to figure out provisions for greasing your pivot points. I love! Great job! Fantastic channel!
P.S. don’t forget to put strobes or a beacon on your truck.
How well do the rubber molds work on v plows? We always have that issue and of course our wipers only work on one speed
I’m really not sure. We only have 1 truck with the folding plow. I am at home until Tuesday so I can’t see it and I can’t picture it in my head to describe it to you.
If you have wrapped the big strap the same way you did with the black one, it would have worked perfectly but awesome job. Loved the video
As a guy who has plowed snow his entire life this an awesome build and you did a great job 👍 I have always wanted to see someone build their own and their own gooseneck too you nailed it !!!!! The entire time I was watching I was naming parts on this build 😂 yup those are buyers/ snowdogg headlights
Many years ago my pop was making full stainless plows for guys around here. Not steel parts with a thin cheesy stainless moldboard but used thick stainless sheets, made the ribs and supports out of stainless as well. He was making them 8, 8½ and 9' and this was back in the day when 7½ was the norm on all 3/4 & 1 ton trucks. I still run 2 of them today. He also helped engineer a quick mount style very similar to the Curtis style and had under the hood hydraulics either belt driven or electric pump under the hood. I remember he had a 74 F250 that blew the engine and he was a diesel guy so he decided to drop in a marine use CAT Turbo diesel and ran a hydraulic pump gear driven straight off the engine and that ran the plow, the dump bed, the power steering (with pressure and flow reducers of course) and the setup worked flawlessly. My pop was old school and always tinkering with something.
Quick connector for battery cables plus when you plow, always plow wider than you need that way you have a place to put the snow from the next storm. Great video
I haven't tried it myself, but it seems like to bend the sheet metal of the blade, if you weld a series of threaded rods down the middle of the bend and matching tabs with holes in them on the frame you could just run nuts onto the rods going through the tabs to draw the sheet metal into shape. It might buckle though, dunno.
When using the plough angle it to the left or to the right so that the snow rolls of to the left of your driveway or to the right of the driveway.
When it comes to the later stage of snowplough inge, when the plough is pointing to the left or the right you turn your vehicle in that direction, so your plough blade is pointing on its left diagonal you turn to the left to end your plough work, it is the same when the plough blade is pointing on its right diagonal you turn to the right to Finnish your plough work, it also having the plough blade on angle reduces the stress on the front of your vehicle when ploughing the snow when removing the snow.
Always enjoy watching you work.
After 20 years of Alaska and plowing snow the number one thing to think about when you are plowing: "where am I going to go with the NEXT snow fall?" You did a great job. Probably need to rethink the attachment for the float shoes though!
Nice job on the build, I don't know how much annual snowfall you get but always start the season pushing banks back as far as you can. Once you have your banks established raise your blade as you come into the bank the next snowfall pushing up and back. You may get your plow frame stuck a few times before you get the hang of it especially as high as your plow lifts. I set up my blade to about 18" at full lift and 2-3" of slack in the lift chain at full drop for blade float. I enjoy plowing now that I have learned how to avoid digging out a buried plow frame. Good luck!
Thanks for the tips!
Great video again! One thing to think about though. If you can try plowing in 2WD. If you get yourself stuck you can put it in 4 to get out. If you are already in 4 you might be so far into stuck you need someone else to get you out.
That's why I despise silver streak , they break too easily and gum up when they get wet. I work in a fab shop I'd rather use soap stone. Great job guys love the design
Yeah, they don't work well in cold weather either 🤷♂️
I'd run out of soap stone and have to scratch with a nail.. I just got used to scratching now-- soapstone just feels like a luxury now. haha
I have tried soapstones and the problem I have with it, is too easy to wipe away. When you try to cut my pieces from one piece, always lose some lines.
Nice build, tons of work. My son and I went with Fisher MM's and just adapted mounts from other trucks to work. They are pretty cheap off season if you watch. His is on an F150 and mine is on a Gen4 4Runner, trucks you don't normally see them on. I think you'd really like the joystick type controller. One thing I couldn't tell on yours is if it has a float position which makes plowing simpler. BTW, Fisher has an adjustable foot to hold the headgear up plus a spring that keeps it from flopping forward. I'm sure you could easily add something similar. Cheers!
Great video to stumble across at the very end of our Winter…. In our agricultural area small 3 point tractor blades are everywhere for very cheap. All that is needed is 3/8” and 1/2” mild steel plate to mock up the control frame and an electric hydraulic pump with four cylinders to give a 6 way adjustment with a heavily sprung pivot break to save the hydraulics from impacts….on the front of my ‘83 2 wheel drive Ford F150 straight six. I lucked out and got a manual 5 speed that is geared so low that top speed in 5th is 55mph! The great part is that this economical six cylinder engine can pull our 14 ton hay trailer without any trouble…hardly know it’s back there when fully loaded! This snow blade will add the front weight I’ve been needing and give me a quick way to clear the drive without firing up the backhoe or bulldozer in the middle of the cold weather when they run the worst!(hey! Their over 70 years old…..you’ll be hard starting at that age too!)
Hey Waldo, love the video! One thing I recommend, is to put a 2 inch ABS piping onto the bottom blade. It’ll help the blade from catching really hard. Also help with not moving all the gravel on your property. Hope this helps!
That will take away the ability for the blade to cut through hardpack snow. Its called a cutting edge for a reason.
Definitely worth a sub on this one!! You are definitely the whole package! Tech savvy and no problem putting in the time to learn complex mechanical techniques!! Well done and I’m in!!
Thank you so much! 🤠
15:13 With the angle of the ratchet strap, you're mostly trying to compress the pipe length-wise.
I just started loving plowing in the snow. Thanks Waldo for this
something it might be worth looking in too, is you can have companies bend the sheet metal for you on a giant press, so you don't have to fight it. alternatively, ive seen a few DIY plows made by simply welding 2-4" wide strips together to get the curvature needed.
Waldo, I suggest to put a piece of 2”-4” tubing as a “block” when you cut on the dry cut saw. It puts the blade at a more optimal angle when cutting for longer blade life and faster cut time.
If I didn't watch you build it, I would think you bought it. Looks great!
I've found angle and roll blade are everything. Roll being the position of the top of blade to bottom..more roll means more snow rolls off blade.
You should of cut out some more of the curved rib supports and used them with the jacks to bend the metal to form.
I like this project Waldo. I especially enjoyed how impressed you were with how well it actually worked. Nice job.
Thank you very much!
Also, having two chain points will eliminate the side to side movement when it’s in the air .. when the plow is dropped back down the chains go slack and allow it to pivot .. you don’t want it pivoting side to side while it’s in the air and you’re driving down the road
If you want to cut cost , use an old water heater tank for your plow next time, they work great
Lil tip, when clearing paths, you want the blade angled towards the outer edge, when you are doing something wider like a broad driveway go towards the inside of the road so you can scoop the snow out later, parallel to the front is for bulldozing large areas.
Hi Waldo, I must say that I am quite impressed with your knowledge of mechanics and such. There is no doubt in my mind that you have been gifted with a great amount of common sense and possibly a high IQ. It’s quite refreshing to see someone take such pride in their workmanship and always strive for excellence in all that they do. You might not have started this gig to become a teacher, but I assure you that is exactly what you’re doing. Keep up the great work and if you so desire you will be providing content on RUclips full-time some day soon. God Bless
Thank you so much for the kind words! 🤠
I noticed on my Western plow.. is not just one sheet on metal they bend into shape… its actually several different pieces welded together… I see you used one sheet.. and we’re having a tough time to get it to bend.. just thought I’d mention that… final product came out great. it’s awesome seeing intelligent people build stuff from scratch
It was pure pleasure watching a true MacGyver at work making magic out of metal. Bravo!
As someone mentioned two chains would probably make it more stable when transporting, and take some stress off the single chain.
The only other suggestion I have would be to beef up that upright (tower that your lights and pump mount to) because that of anything is going to take the most abuse, other then those two things, awesome work Waldo!
When you build something it’s all about trial and error, if it doesn’t always work the first time, don’t be discouraged, pick up your grinder and welding machine and try again!
Awesome plow and video, Waldo! I’m a bit surprised you didn’t fit the plow to Brandon, being the heavier truck. I’ll bet you were kicking yourself for not having the annular cutter for the mag drill to fit the pipe through the blade ribs. 100k is right around the corner. 👍
Thanks Greg! Yeah, I was considering which truck to put the plow on, but I figured the gas, single cab was a better option (better visibility and it's more of a "work truck" than Brandon) 👍
Great video. I seriously got a kick out of watching this build and I live in Florida where snow plows are never (ever) needed.
Thank you, Waldo, for sharing your life through your videos. I discovered them last evening and watched several. I very much like your style of demonstrating and explaining what you are doing and why in each video. Your commentary is a perfect compliment to each project. I don’t believe I’ve viewed any videos done better. Please continue!
Fantastic job Waldo! I would have never had the follow thru on a project like that. Congrats on having it work well on its maiden plow!
Thank you! 🤠
Another outstanding video, Waldo! Your skills, inventiveness, attention to detail on the build are only surpassed by the incredible quality of your videos. Keep up the great work, LOVE all you’ve done so far!!!!
Thank you so much!
I already enjoyed Waldo’s channel but I like Waldo a lot more now after discovering he has a Golf R @ 57:58