Synthetic Oil Controversy Explained...
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- Опубликовано: 27 май 2024
- Addressing everything you guys commented about on our 5.0 Coyote video.
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Watch next, "REVIEW: Everything Wrong With A 5.0 Coyote Engine" • REVIEW: Everything Wro...
00:00 Previously...
01:26 The Real Diagnosis
02:38 Discolouration of the heads
05:33 Should you run conventional oil instead?
06:14 How is synthetic too good?
09:43 Synthetic oil crystallizing?
11:46 Is it okay to mix different brands of oil?
15:41 Aluminum bearings are too soft for synthetic?
18:09 Don't the oil pumps fail in the 5.0?
19:24 Oversize pistons don't increase displacement?
21:58 DOHC is the wave of the future?
24:55 Can you make big power with a 4.6 2v engine?
27:36 Oil tech call out
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Scott uses *Certified Labs* Synthetic Oil northamerica.certifiedlabs.com/products-motor-oils.html
Our follow up video: ruclips.net/video/pGJqVQvPTjE/видео.html
This website does not offer availability information beyond a phone number to contact a sales rep. Is this brand available off a shelf in Canada?
They’re not on shelves anywhere unfortunately. Only way to buy it is through a rep.
Why does the factory tell you to change the oil but change the filter ever other time
@@highlanderfreelancer4553 Lower cost of ownership. Same reason they say synthetics last twice as long. Better off doubling your filter costs and replacing the filter every time.
@@stevem4621 it's over your head
My old Ford Tempo is self changing. I just add a Litre once a month all is good. 😂🤣
Holy crap, you still have a running Ford Tempo? Lol you're right, a quart a week basically Is a self changing oil change hahaha
That is called a "Total Loss Oiling System" .. it was big back in 1919...Or your Tempo is a Semi -Diesel..lol.
LMAO. My tempo was the same. It puked trans fluid. To this day I think I was the only one that had a OEM body kit by Ford on mine all original black in clout with the red pin stripe. 😂
My 88 3.9 Dakota was the same. Self refreshing oil system. :D
We had a truck like that. We would just change the filter every so often
I'm 70 years old and i find it hilarious that when i was young people were discussing and even arguing about engine oils and change intervals.I see that nothing has changed. I change my oil twice a year regardless of mileage with synthetic. Last time i changed it had only 3500Klm on it. With the pandemic i didn't drive much. I just made sure i had enough toilet paper to last until i'm 89.
What brand are you using?
@@tzerambo3140 Kirkland Toilet paper is our family favorite!!! :)
@@tzerambo3140 Castrol Edge. I have used nothing but Castrol for over 50 years and never had an internal engine part fail. I usually drive them to at least 300.000. Good enough for me.
@@jonkreiser7757 HaHaHa...Me too. 👍
@@wysetech2000 Hard to beat the quality, it just goes the distance :)
Being an Oilfield Mechanic for decades and working with both types of oil I personally found that synthetic oil is best in all applications
Truth. -Ohio
When it isn't your shit sure. No respectful mechanic will ever put that shit in his own stuff. Lick my taint
A big thing with synthetic oil that people miss is that if they want more miles with the oil they need an oil filter that's up to that task, I've literally seen people go 10k with synthetic but they still had a filter rated to 5
Tell me why most manufacturers now say you only have to change the filter every other oil change? It make no sense to me.
Myth.
You can’t filter out combustion byproducts unless you’re doing a bypass filter. If you’re clogging a filter in 10k then you have much bigger issues.
The main “problem” with synthetic oil is all the people who believe it’s magic and never change it
@@ComputeCrunch idk i tried the brand name stuff in my 06 ranger and it burned oil and ticked like crazy, switched to supertech full synthetic after 5k miles and it purrs like a kitten.
I agree,even if it's better it doesn't mean you can just put it in once and forget about it
yeah I change it each spring or if it doesn't look like melted butter...I've always heard tho if it was on dino oil never just go to a straight synthetic use a blend from there on...tried rotella synthetic once on a straight from the factory synthetic gas engine and the darn thing started leaking from the seals...dumb me trying to save a buck...live and learn.
@@ComputeCrunch rotella gas,I was not happy with it at all.
Agreed i hate when people try tellen me at my shop oh "its synthetic just change the filter and top it off" like thats cool once not the rest of the life of the vehicle
I thought everyone in the north used maple syrup. 🧐
hangtime 7190 isn't that true. 😂
Maple syrup and beer 🍁 🍺
only in our ski-doo's eh!
We run poutine gravy and cheese.
Maple syrup is the same viscosity as 30 weight oil
8 min. In and had to say that this man knows his stuff. Ive worked in an automotive/diesel machine shop for years. What hes saying is the truth. Spoken from experience. Anyways love your content guys
Thanks!
Says the guy wearing sunglasses and no shirt in a public picture.
I'd let that guy rebuild my engines any time. Honest, knowledgeable and experienced. The real answer for all this oil crap is the same as it's always been - preventative maintenance works. I change my oil and filter every 4000 miles in my car and 3000 in my bike and have never had a problem. No fancy oil, just regular Valvoline 10W-40 and name brand filters.
Bingo!! Change it regularly and often. Always change mine around 4000 and use Motorcraft synthetic blend as suggested by manufacturer 5w20 and Motorcraft filter. Almost 200k and never had an issue.
Agreed!
Just the way you said that, "I'd let that guy rebuild my engines any time." Or maybe it was the way you were licking your lips when ya said it.
@@grabbag6314 Nice! what Ford you Drive?
@@selfoblivionalex6262
I got a 34 Ford n a tank full a gas
A mouth full a titty n a hand full a ass
Tl;dr: the guy is saying that people who use synthetics go way too long between oil changes.
Saved you a half hour.
Corbin Blanchard Design That and short hop problems about sums it up
So its an issue of maintenance rather than the oil itself
@@kylecampbell5812 Correct. This guy needs to work on his communication skills.
How long is too long? I heard 5,000 was good.
🤣
Nothing like the internet to pick apart every word of someone that is talking openly. We must always remember editing and context. Makes people reluctant to talk on camera. This guy has loads of hands on knowlage....Thanks for the great videos
So do quite a few of us commenting. If you want to do an open mike and post online... try and know what you are talking about in a how too... or be clear. Otherwise... don't post a video lol. It's just how it goes and nice to see this video to clear things up.
@@LSswapGarage1 so upload more. Your 2 minute video doesn't show your amazing skills leaving you just sounding bitter in the comments.
@@aluckyshot No thanks...I don't want to be a RUclipsr lol. I would never load videos to this platform the way it is now anyway. And what amazing skills were in the first video beyond misinformation that got clarified here.. Watch the video and "learn" if you need too
@@LSswapGarage1 I just came across this vidro and when I heard him say a customer came in with his tractor and when he opened it up it was so clean he could eat off of it. The customer didn't need the work but that's what the customer wanted so he did it. That sounds just like a mechanic I stay away from. I'm of the mind set if it isn't broke or going to break don't fix it. If it's not preventative maintenance don't replace it.
Knowledge...
If there's one thing I've learned, it's that where a person stands on engine oil is primarily faith-based and arguing about it changes as many minds as arguing about other matters of faith.
In the case of both it’s because the outcomes aren’t usually empirical. The minimal differences between oils and most oil-changing regimens (3k vs. 5K) won’t show up until very high milage. By then most cars are on their 3rd or 4th owners, if they’re still in use at all.
In my experience working with fleet management, the long block is usually the last component to go-usually after about 400k of hard use and changes with full synthetic every 10k.
My mom had a Trailblazer that went 700k with conventional oil changed at Firestone or Jiffy Lube. Everything else broke, but he engine still ran without smoke.
But yah know, we old guys like to argue about shit that doesn’t matter…
@@BillLaBrie And stay off my LAWN!😏😂😂😂
It is any EASY thing to research and yes, this issue has been thoroughly researched. Have you ever heard of SCIENCE, you absolute Maroooon!
@@lurking0death You seem angry and humorless. I'll be praying for you.
Engineering explained has a hour video going through details on this.
I used to work for an oil importer. We had one of the engineers explain the difference between synthetic and mineral. It comes down to film thickness and film strength. Mineral oil has a high film thickness and lower film strength and better for larger clearance engines specifically cast iron bore. Synthetic oils have lower film thickness and high film strength and better for tighter clearanced engines specifically more modern engines or chrome plated, electro plated bores like in off road motorcycles. In my old Toyota diesel I use mineral and change every 5000km.
Same here, I run 20W50 + extra zinc (for mechanical flat tappets) in my old International V8 diesel. I once opted for going synth, but was shocked how THIN it was and didn't dared put in.
Project Farm has a great series where he tested a ton of a different types of synthetic oil.
Amsoil is the best oil!
repairvehicle yeah but for $40? I’ll stick to using Rotella 5w30
@@fargonianproductions2767 ,40 for what? And how many times are you changing none synthetic Rotella?
@@repairvehicle rotella is actually a great oil
I was just thinking of Todd during the explanation :)
A big takeaway I get from this is: Short drives ruin cars, as does going over your oil changes, especially in combination.
It helps to leave it running for a few minutes to get the parts warm with the oil. Driving right when it's started and the parts are cold isn't good for it.
In the first month of Autoshop class in 10th grade we were told that short drives especially without warm up are very severe for engines
@@nicoctane1669 No, don't leave engines idling to warm them up, you are just extending the time the engine is running cold. Start it up and drive away, just don't thrash the guts out of it until warm.
And I will add, the shorter your daily drives, the shorter your oil change intervals or mileage should be.
@@ferrumignis That completely goes against what mechanics told me. In the video it even says its not good how the engine parts are not even warm when you drive a short distance and shut it off. If you leave it running for a few minutes your engine can warm up and not just the oil so even if you only drive a mile or 2 down the road the engine is alot warmer than if you just started it and went.
"engine sounds good" bellows smoke out like a chimney. lol
I thought he was going to say "and we found a blown head gasket"
Noticed that did you !!!
Thats exhaust not smoke. Ever start a car in cold weather before?
@@trudeaumustgo1920 must be minus 50c for that much smoke to come out.
@@slybunda nope, i live in canada ask me how i know. Notice its grey and not blue? Burning oil has a bluer look to it.
As a shadetree mechanic, this video was very helpful. I never let my oil changes go that long, and always wondered why the manufacturer would claim such a long interval between simple maintenance. Just getting me to go from 3k miles to 5k miles was like pulling my own tooth.
The manufacturers (and Dealers) recommend longer oil change intervals because it is a selling point. Engineers have certainly calculated max oil change intervals that will get the engine past the warranty. Then it's your baby. How long in between changes? Just monitor the oil. If you drain it at 5K miles and its dark, black, or smells burnt you are going too long. Try 3.5K next change. Then fine tune from there to find your sweet spot.
@@steadyeddie7453 or send it out to a lab and they’ll probably tell you that the oil is still good
Yes me too. 5k mis is max I go. -Ohio
Amen, brother man.
Rich this was perfect, absolutely love the discussion and the back and forth. I could listen this type of content all day keep it up.
Thanks. Scott is really knowledgeable and I have trusted him to do my work for the last 5 years
@@DEBOSSGARAGE thank you so much. Every day we are learning
This video i learned for a week. Keep up
Agree - love how it comes down to "change your oil" frequently and consistently. After 50K miles of dealer services (baked into price of car) and way to many "free multi-point inspections" that yielded too many "throttle body cleaning recommendations" I crawled under the minivan with my 16 year old son to show him how to change the oil. Love it. @UCLXV9vzJwgYOyGaZlD89VfA - I just purchased a Mityvac MV7201 to make retrieving "most" of the oil easier and only crawl under the Toyota's to replace the filters and do the final drain. Any experience with these that come with any feedback or recommendations? I'll be honest, I purchased it because we are now taking care of grandma's 2005 E320 and getting to the oil plug on those is terrible. I plan to drain the oil and then pour in a half quart of new oil to help the remaining half quart of old oil make its way to the suction line.
DEBOSS GARAGE is love to know which synthetic he is running. I’ve been using Mobil but if he has a better suggestion I’d love to know. Brand new sub. First video I watched.
@@danhouse OH GOD!!! You've done lit the fuse on the mother of all oil discussions ........ At family get togethers always avoid the subjects of politics and religion ........ on engine lubrication always avoid the subject of which is the better ...... conventional or synthetic and definitely what brand is best. I'm not subbing only because doing so may melt my notification bell and I only have one, no backup.
I change my oil once a year on my 05 Silverado. It gets 99% highway miles and only 6000 miles a year. It looks superb under the valve covers after 15 years of ownership. Running Mobil 1
I never change oil just add if needed... 387200 miles on my 78 Volare no oil changes ever..runs perfect run 10-40 Caseys general store brand
tilley Schmolph, if you are just adding oil then damn she must be burning it. But hey, if it works keep on going lol. Saves time with not having to replace it!
tilley Schmolph them old slant 6 won’t die
I am sure plenty of people damage their engines after changing the oil by not priming the oil system. I have seen loads of people fire right up and the oil light is on for a bit, it can't be good. I always unplug the coil or cut the fuel on a diesel and run the starter to get a bit of pressure up and make sure the filter is full. By never changing the oil you never have this problem.
@Gear Jammer yeah but think about the load on the crank bearings, little ends etc when you have explosions going on in the combustion chambers. It is nothing like when the starter is gently spinning the engine over. Plus if you pulse the starter and allow it to cool it will not hurt it. Remember alot of wear happens on startup under normal conditions. If that oil light is staying on the wear is massively multiplied.
"That's the whole purpose of synthetic, It saturates everything...." Well hell, here I thought the whole purpose was to have uniform hydrocarbon chain lengths. For what it's worth I've pulled apart quite a few '60's and '70s windsors and clevelands that I'll guarantee never saw a drop of synthetic oil and many had the same dark staining. I think it has everything to do with the solids collecting in the oil and depositing on surfaces, not so much the oil. I've got a Coyote I've owned since new, all but one oil change has been according to the oil life monitor, a peek under the valve covers reveals clean aluminum.
Yeah, I agree that there's no scenario imaginable in which synthetics are going to underperform, *except* when people try to stretch the intervals because they're getting a false sense of security fed to them by marketers about how intervals can be extended. When you drive it, how long does it typically run? On your car, at what mileage is the oil life monitor telling you it should be changed? I know at least on my early teen Ecoboost Fords they were recommending Motorcraft synthetic blend so the oil change intervals were like 7500mi or so. I've seen marketing on synthetics saying that you can run them 10, 15 even 20 thousand miles, which is when I think people are getting into trouble with synthetics, especially if they're typically running the engine less than 15 minutes at a time and heat cycling the engine that many times. Most of those synthetics will say in small print "or once a year" to avoid liability with these types of applications. I'd guess that's probably why the legal department signed off on the language in the marketing. A fleet vehicle that just runs constantly for an 8 hour shift is probably the target application for extended intervals.
Good ammounts of detergent in the oil will help prevent deposits.
@@cutdepiefails6596 Yeah, detergent oil and sane change intervals. Once you've got a decade's worth of neglect built up on everything, I'm not sure anything short of a hot-tank is going to do much. Oil capacity has a lot to do with change intervals; don't try 9K miles with a five quart oil pan no matter what oil you're running. "The solution to pollution is dilution."
Private Party it’s the sulfur present in all mineral oils that turns to sulfuric acid under the stress of heat from combustion and sticks like glue to the interior of the engine and is present from then on and instantly starts contaminating every oil change done since the beginning. There’s also nitrous oxides which are blow by coming past the rings and especially noted in these all aluminum engines. It takes any and all lubricants down over a period of time even the best of synthetics. Fuel dilution also affects the life.
Amsoil synthetic has been my go to for years. Amazing oil. Real synthetic.
im a fan of amsoil, i haven't used much for there four stroke oil but they have amazing two stroke oil probably one of the best, i would run 100:1 in my 250 and rode her haaaaaaaard and never gave me a probably due to oil,
Is it group 4?
@@alexstromberg7696 yes it is.
@@breakwood8531 we don't have amsoil anyway I'm Sweden lmao
I've been using amsoil z-rod in my Supra for years as it has the needed additives to deal with starting the car to move it around without it getting fully up to temp and being on 80%+ Ethanol fuel. Black stone says keep it up! :-)
Bottom line previous owner abused that engine. Oil type use is insignificant.
Do an oil analysis, you will be surprised.
@@repairvehicle Oil analysis doesn't matter if the person never changed the oil...it's not the type of oil failing,it's the idiot owner not changing it.
@@seanbailey8545 , for idiot owners, oil analysis does not matter just like oil type they use.
@@repairvehicle You would not believe how bad people are. They talk about cars being shit and I ask them if they maintain their car. They answer, "I don't have to maintain my (insert favorite car or brand here) so that car is shit."
@@joer8854 , cars with direct injection is pure garbage and problematic. No matter how you maintain it still going to have Carbon build and engine problems
Although I agree about the short drives, you need to use your car when you need to use your car. The maintenance should match the driving habits. If you do frequent short trips, then the solution might just be to change the oil twice as often.
💯
You just nailed it. So many people still focus on the odometer for oil change intervals, but there are other factors. It's why new GM vehicles have "oil life" monitors that consider entire operating conditions like run time, temperature, load, and of course miles.
Yep
Or change the filter in between oil changes
It's very simple... let your car warm up for a few mins before driving
Oh
I change the oil all the time.
These geniuses use full synthetic and it's a blend. Amsoil is 100% synthetic and it's expensive and I still change early.One incident was I took my wifes Mitsubishi in for a minor recall and they had to take the head valve cover off. The service manager came into the waiting room and said come with me to the service area. The Mechanic ask me what kind of oil was I using and I told him Amsoil. The inside of my wifes motor looked like a shiney nickel. 😁
Exactly right buddy! Amsoil is the only %100 synthetic oil and is hands down the best
I had the pleasure of being in charge of the lubrication program for our plants numerous heavy gearboxes and pumps. In 1990 I began a switch to synthetics. Each gearbox was drained, flushed and examined for any metal filings. They were refilled with synthetic and monitored every 6 months for filings and viscosity. The data gathered showed that we could extend oil changes, thus reducing costs, by 1 year in many cases. I loved your rebuild of the Coyote engine and the info shared. I have an 2020 F150 5.0. It has a lovely, low growl when you hit the accelerator. It's waaayyy more truck than I will ever need, but at 67, it was kind of a bucket list thing.
At 67, it's time to spoil yourself!
Okay, two more things real quick. 1. I just stumbled on these guys and they're awesome. No better way to get a gear head engineer distracted and wasting a Saturday morning that starting a conversation about engine oil. 2. I see a lot of discussion about how long sythetic oil will last. Not to distract from these guys, but Engineering Explained did a great video about engine oil, the additives, and what goes into a 20,000 mile oil.
That video was nothing more than paid advertising for mobile one. Love engineering explained. Those mobile one sponsored videos were trash
Give me a thumbs up if you spent 20 minutes rummaging through comments.
Nope
In other words "PaY aTtEnTiOn To Me, I'm A wHoRe."
@@BiggusDickus2 getting my money's worth big boy
I did because I want to know what fucking oil he uses! lol
@@1987FX16 haha did you find it yet?
Great video. You guys covered alot of good topics and in a candid, straight forward way. 👍
I enjoyed your talk. very interesting. Myself I switched to synthetic when I lived in northern Quebec/Labrador and we had lots and I mean lots of -30 -40 weather. And eevn plugged in engines would run a fair amount of time with no oil pressure indicated. But What turned me on to the Synthetic was an oil injected 2 cycle snowmobile (Yamaha) I used to leave the oil for the injection system under the back step and when I needed to fill the injection tank The oil wouldn't pour from the bottle. Made me wonder how long it took for the running engine to warm the oil until it would flow. I tried one of the first synthetic oils that I could get my hands on and in the same temperature range it was pourable and had fast indicated oil pressure. I have been a believer ever since.
yes synthetic have better performance in very cold temps. i watched something from a local and well known diesel shop recently discussing how what many current model 4wds are factory filled with simply isnt suitable in our climate as we rarely get below 5 degrees celcius here for more than a few mornings in the middle of winter.
his advice was to run heavier oil and to look at the temp chart in the owners book as your guide. particularly as many 4wd owners here are towing and running at max weights a lot when touring so a hard working engine needs a heavier oil. it must of course meet the lubricant specs for that engine.
"It's so slippery it reduces the rotational mass" uhhhh what. That is either misspoken or a complete misunderstanding.
If you cant dazzle them with brilliance, you baffle them with bullshi*
@@redneck4200000 You remind me of the public education system.... But let's change what you said to WHEN you can't dazzle them with brilliance, you baffle them with hog shit (it's way worse than bull shit, shovel some sometime.)
friction is what he meant to say. i'll give him the benefit ....
I think I get what he's on about. When I first used synthetic oil in my 4 cyl. turbo I noticed the idle speed would drop to 500 rpm and almost stall. There is a significant effect on an engine and how it functions, with a few days use the control system seemed to adjust. If you don't have a new computer controlled engine maybe you need to make some adjustments on your own, I dunno, I'm not an expert. I change the oil more often than recommended, and I feel like if you make changes regularly you're going to be fine with just about any oil.
Right - just stick the word "friction" in there somewhere. The equation involves "rotational mass."
All my cars are newer and require synthetic. I change the oil and rotate tires, every 5k.
Oil is cheaper that an new engine
I do the same.
MechanicalMartialArtist new engine is $300-500 and a days work, oil is like $20 per 5 litres, so a change is just shy of $60 plus the filter which is $16-24, I’d still rather change the oil if I could afford it, but 10 changes through the life of an engine and it’s costing you more (labour for labour it adds up too, sort of...)
aterack833 wtf? $300-$500? 😂
@@aterack833 $300-500 for what engine? a lawnmower engine? Or are you talking about a 200k mile junkyard engine.
Yeah, I dont care what the oil bottle says (use amsoil signature yearly change) I change mine every 5000 miles or 6 months and rotate the tires regardless
Really enjoyed this conversation.
That was a great and very informative video!
You guys are great together,
cheers from Quebec hey!
I think I would say "polymerization" instead of "crystallization"
Just like seasoning a cast iron fry pan!
Polymerisation is a kind of chemical change in the substance isn't it? I thought sludge build up was just the oil breaking down and sticking to the engine and more sticking on top of it
@@dev_mal yes this is what happens when you season a cast iron pan, the oil breaks down into an almost plastic like substance.
id have gone with varnish
@@nrs91 six of one, half a dozen of the other.
You mean "we'll save that oil brand info for when that company pays me to say their name".
More than likely amsoil
Just discovered this channel, absolutely great information about engines and oil.
I have had a many old timers say the same thing.Change the oil more often.Oil is cheaper to replace than an engine.Its all about the maintenance.Thanks for the info & tips.
My friend Marvin was a Master Mechanic and he always bought whatever oil that was on sale. He never had an oil related engine failure.
I love Castro GTX. It goes on sale (50% off) every 6 months. So I fill my garage each time. I have used it in my last eight vehicles and they've all lasted until I sold them. PS I did not sell them cuz they have mechanical issues. I have ADHD and I need to change my vehicles as often as I do my jobs.
👍😉👍
Yes, it’s amazing what actually changing the oil from time to time will do for your engine.
Yep change it every 3k miles. Bunch cheap bastards who think they should go 6k miles a change.
3K mike oil change was back in the old days when the oil was the lubricant, but these days oil (ALL oil) is a semi-synthetic carrier for anti-wear additives. 5K is very reasonable, modern oils aren’t as volatile and contains almost no paraffin. 5K or even 7,500 is OK. But the “synthetic oil is magic” crowd thinks they never have to change it at all and then after 30,000 miles they drop the engine.
@@MrJeffcoley1
The wear additives don't mean anything. We aren't talking about oil break down. There is more to this. Like the acids that build up in the oil, and the changes in viscosity. Then there is the notion that newer vehicles are running a turbo. And with all of that, you think it is safe to run 5k miles on an oil change with a turbo... lol. Gtfo.
I use royal purple in my LS2 and have for 10 years. I change every 4000 miles. I will not wait 15,000 miles like some say you can.
I'M WITH YOU ON THAT ONE. I USE AMSOIL ASWELL AND IT CLAIMS 15,000 MILE OIL CHANGE INTERVALS. NO WAY JOSE! I CHANGE EVERY 3,000. PERIOD!
Royal purple is snake oil
@@neilbrown82 IDK MAN. I USED IT RECENTLY FOR A FULL 3,000 MILES AND DIDN'T HAVE TO ADD A SINGLE DROP NO SHIT. JUST SWITCHED TO WHAT APPARENTLY IS SUPPOSED TO BE BETTER AMSOIL AND I HAD TO ADD A DROP AFTER 1,000 MILES. SO WHO KNOWS.
How much engine wear do you have with rp?
Absolutely no one changes oil at 4000 mile intervals in Europe, it's not 1953.
Great addendum and explanation just how an engine works in todays engineering climate, vs the old days !
When I bought my first car , my father lectured me about oil changes. My 1969 Galaxie 500/390 was to get a fresh fill of 10w30 every 3000 miles (5000km) My 2018 Escape 1.5L 4cyl requires 5w20 synthetic but I still change it every 3000 miles (5000km) I have used Quaker State since my father sold it at his garage. I never lost an engine due to lubrication problems. You sounded like my father when you emphasized proper maintenance.
This is one of the best videos I've seen in a long time. Great subjects and a knowledgeable guest. Do more w him.
Dude, you can't say "I thought this oil was so good that I've run it exclusively ever since", and then not share the brand!
I'm pissed, I wanna know what the hell he uses so I can too. I trust both of their words enough to use what they recommend.
I think they referred to Lucas Oil
Walmart brand....
The comments section seems to be leaning towards Amsoil
@@celticstephenhill its either amsoil or SHAEFERS. SHAEFERS IS THE BEST. Hands down
Great Video. Just waiting to build out my 4.6 Totally agree with the build ability of the Ford Modular 4.6 L V-8.
Very informative, and entertaining.. love the channel.
Great to see two RUclipsr’s and mechanics (The Skid Factory & De Boss Garage) who are on top their game supporting each other and us Aussie’s from the other side of the globe!
I always run the cheapest oil possible - as long as it meets the API service rating and has the donut on the bottle I don't worry about magical claims - I also wouldnt ever go more than ~5000 MAX (and preferably 3,000-4,000 miles) regardless of what interval they recommend
Might want to look into Amazon's oil then. ProjectFarm did a video on it and it was surprisingly good.
@@defaultuser9273 yep, Warren distribution. A.k.a Walmart oil.
I would never run the cheapest oil possible i pick something middle of the road in pricing. I run full synthetic high mileage oils because my Volvo has 300,000 miles on it and i beleive the extra dispersants and detergents in high mile grade full synthetic oil really helps clean things up. Having to do PCV service every so often on this car myself (because cost having others do it makes no sense) I can most defiantly tell you it does make a difference and is an improvement.
I typically do 5000 mile - 5500 mile oil changes because 3000 mile change would be way too soon for me but I know if i wanted to really i could stretch it 7500 miles. That being said if I’m beating the snot out of my engine than it’s all about checking my dipstick.... with a shove use like tracking my wagon I had to replace the oil in as few as 750 miles total because started looking dark and smelling Funny and then gassy as turned darker..
Same here. I cheap out on oil (Super Tech, Traveller, NAPA Conventional) but I change my oil frequently (3-5k mile).
@@Joe-nr9xf Better yet, Supertech. After amazon raised there oil price, Supertech all the way. Probably the same oil anyways.
Great vid and info as always!
Seems like a synthetic blend changed at 4k miles would be the best of both worlds. That what I do in my 203,000 mile 5.4 3v. Still on original timing components.
The cheapest oil with the right specs, just change a bit more often.
Great vid boys. I felt for Scott on the last one. There was way more digression than was necessary with some of the comments. Good to clear it all up. He can build my engine any day.
Ha, got ya! @ 2:45 you called the PCV a PVC. In one way or another, I've been getting grease under my fingernails for about 40 years, and to this day I still get it mixed up and call the "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" a PVC. I'm happy to see it's not only me!
I Have Sexdaily. I Mean Dyslexia! Fcuk.
I think part of it is that PVC just rolls off of the tongue a little easier too.
Worst part for me is, I learned about a PCV BEFORE I learned about PVC and I STILL do it 😲
@@MattPratt I too have occasional bouts of Dain BRamage
Sounds like a heart palpitation haha.
Very well done. Makes good sense. I’m synthetic and yes combustion engine byproducts destroy even the best of lubricants. Long OLM also creates fuel dilution thereby you need earlier oil changes for instance city driving more than highway use. Good common sense information that you’ve brought out.
Thanks for the info , iv'e built and run a lot of engines and i'm not too old to listen and learn
1. Changing pistons or skimming the head/block has no effect on displacement, because...
2. The volume of the space between the piston and head at TDC is not included in the displacement.
Everything about computers and emissions I agree with because this is about not changing the compression ratio, and that IS affected by the design of the piston and/or skimming the head/block.
Correct because you can switch from a dome to a dish and the volume is still the same because they subtract volume at TDC from the volume at BDC.
You should do a “Everything wrong with a 6.7 Cummins”!
Let me, It’s not a 12v 5.9. Done.
Mr. Gotem Both are exceptional engines though admittedly...
USA_Dobson No doubt. But you can make a 5.9 do pretty much anything - and cheap. 6.7 is much more complex/expensive to mod & repair. I didn’t/don’t know jack and I figured out my repairs/mods with very little wrench throwing 🔧
Pd diesel RUclips channel already did that and he has fleet of them.
For grins and giggles how about everything wrong with a , say a Briggs and Stratton or a Kawasaki or even a Kohler
Great content. I wasn’t aware manufacturers were now using aluminium over tri-metal bearings.
great video and info guys you two do great together
That's wild, I thought I was the only one who swore by Clevite Tri-Metal bearings!? Nice! It's great to hear someone else say it.
Great bearings
It's real tough not to accidentally say PVC from habit when talking about positive crankcase ventilation
yeah, that's kind of a pet peeve of mine. PVC means poly-vinyl chloride, as in plastic piping.
Of course, PCV means positive crankcase ventilation.
positively ventilated crankcase?
l have been a mechanic all my life and still call it a pvc
I use full synthetic and change every 3k miles
Just wasting then
That's a waste of good oil. ANY full syn will easily go AT LEAST 5K, and probably longer...
Awesome info! Thanks for the video. 👍
Anyone else thinks this guy is Kenny Schraeders doppelganger?? Its like Kenny had a twin he's unaware of!
V
I legit thought it was my aviation tech teacher, he looks identical to this man
lol, now that you mention it. I wouldn't say a doppelganger, but he's definitely at the family reunions.
I'll never be able to un-see that!
The easiest way to end the debate on when to change oil, is to do oil samples. That’s the only way to do it 100% correctly.
nah, just change it sooner
Jonathon Smith we do a lot of fleet maintenance. We have trucks hitting high 50k miles between changes, lab verified. It’s worth it on a larger scale, but on our own work trucks we just double it and test it every so often to make sure it’s fine at that.
TOTAL MOBILE SOLUTIONS......I once had a 1994 Dodge Diesel (Cummins 5.9 12 Valve) that I ordered new. I installed an AMSOIL by-pass oil filter system and ran the AMSOIL 15W-40 Diesel oil doing "Oil Sampling every 10-12 K miles. I owned the truck for 10 years and put 155,000 miles on the Oil without draining the oil! The Engine was in perfect condition, and the valve covers were very clean inside!
How does one do oil sampl8ng at home?
Sincere question.
hhiippiittyy you get a kit from a company like Amsoil, get oil from your engine when you change it, send into the lab in the provided container. It can be messy, and prices vary. I think the kits I use are like 25 including freight to ship the oil.
Enjoyed this discussion!
Glad I saw the follow up video. Thanks!
What's the "fuel mileage" thing he speaks of? Shouldn't it be fuel kilometerage, eh?
stuff
Usually litres per 100 kilometre
Proper use of “eh”. Must be Canadian.
come to think aboot that your right
I've never heard an American use stone as a measurement
People give me crap for changing Mobile 1 EP at 4k miles. Thank you guys. Remember also lot of Synthetic is only highly refined conventional oil thanks to Castrol and a stupid judge.
can you elaborate on the stupid judge part? What lawsuit was it?
@@johndixon9988 Castrol argued that a conventional base stock which had undergone "molecule size homogenization" could be legally called synthetic oil and the judge agreed.
You need to research the products you use. Group 3 base stock is different from ordinary dino oil precisely because of the exceptional refining process. You can't always expect the government to do your thinking for you. Myself, I'm good just knowing the difference between low-end synthetic and the premium brands. It actually is valuable information for me because it lets me know that I can use cheapo synthetic on the same basis as dino oil in my 1990s era cast iron block engine.
SUBSCRIBED. I could listen to y'all talk about oil all day long. 🍿
Great videowith a lot of good info. Thanks guys, now I'm a little smarter on my choices of oil and my expectations.
Yes, the acids are a key factor in determining oil life, that's why an oil analysis with TBN (Total Base Number) test is essential if you're doing an extended oil change interval. I run mobil-1 full synthetic in my 2011 camry SE V6 and do 20,000 oil change intervals. My car now has 206,000 miles on it, it doesn't use oil between oil changes, and my engine is perfectly clean inside. Of course I did oil analysis at 10,000 miles, 15,000 miles, and 20,000 miles before settling on this interval. Also, I mostly do highway driving.
My Father in Law who's job was in Gears and Lubrication at N.A.S.A. always told me never mix oil brands because even if both oils are top of the line each one may have additives that when mixed with a different oil they can become corrosive and cause damage. It's ok to add a quart of different oil if needed if your going to change your oil in a day or two but not long term.
My friend has a garage and we mix oils all day long. It’s all certified api. But at the end of the day it does not matter it’s all relatively the same shat. I think a space ship is a little more complicated then a camery
@@ecosby100 just because its certified doesnt mean all oil has the same additives
Mixing different brands can cause some of them to become corrosive when mixed. It's also a good way to void a warranty if they find you were mixing oils and you develope problems.
e3mrk1 well he has clients with cars with a lot of miles. A lot of shops don’t even change your oil or just add to it or even recycle it. And you cant void the warranty if it’s all api certified and the proper weight.😂. Shoot sometimes if we have it laying around we will use 3 different brands of oil. It’s all quality certified.
@@ecosby100 I never said it would destroy your vehicle if you mixed different brands but when a man who's known around the world and has co-authored books on the subject tells me something I'm inclined to believe him.
Just saying, but you make it out as if an OC gets every damn drop of the old out & nothing ever gets mixed.
I don't buy the corrosive idea, at least not for vehicle engines. As for it all being the same shat, again a big no.
Diehard Amsoil guy & engineer here
I never understood the brown coating before. Thanks for the explanation.
Great talk enjoyed the explinations and insight .
Dang... Sounds like some guys were telling Scott that he stole their childhood or something.
What I heard was that I should change my synthetic oil regularly if I'm short tripping. I was already way ahead of him.
Well actually he meant do not hop in ur car start it, take off, only drive 1 mile and shut it off. So NO MATTER THE OIL OR CAR let it get to operating temp b4 driving away. Older the car=longer warm up phase. But yes change oil regularly. If in city amd hwy 5k miles is ok but the 10-15k is pushing it i.m.o.
But i agree people are fools and need to realize guy was just talking not stating perfect facts
You need to change your oil regularly anyway. I wouldn't do 20k on one oil even if it was doing constant work. As the guys mentioned, it gets acidic with millage.
@@Deftonesdsm New cars don't warm up while idling. You have to drive them to warm them up, because of the friction difference he was talking about in the video.
@@PuerRidcully well oil itself doesnt go bad or become acidic. The results of burning hydrocarbons results in mamy bad things including acid. So on lomg intervuls the oil ends up with a lot of acid and other chemicals suspended in it. Unless u've overheated it the oil is fine. Its the detergents in it that get overwhelmed with "bad" chemicals that effects the metals. Thats why oil is recycled as oil itself is fine just the debris/dirt must be removed from it.Just clearing up the technicalities
@@FoolOfATuque yes true kinda BUT if you start it and put it in gear like most ppl you are doing serious damage. And yes they do get warm enough(operating temp) idling. It just takes much longer. That said if you do not let ur car idle to warm up and try to warm it by loading the engine you are doing damage period. Now not every part will get fully warmed at idle even when temp guage hits middle but the pistons/rings/bearings WILL be warm enough to prevent damage. Also new cars warm up MUCH faster in order to meet emissions as a cold engine is much more dirty. This is why we have heated o2 sensors etc now. Faster computer enters closed loop(warmed up) the better emissions and longevity-Source= im a A.S.E. certified engine builder
Just goto projectfarm channel, he has done oil tests ..
I’ve been running super tech oil from Walmart way before he even made the video. And precisely what I thought, it’s just as good as the expensive shit on the market.
I check my oil(s) every time I fuel, i smell it, I check the color and if it’s getting a dark hue ?
That weekend I am under my truck to change it out. It’s simple , and easy enough to do
Supertech is good stuff. Been using it for a long time
Everything past the first 4/5 words of your comment can be ignored (I’m joking btw)
Correct, but if you watch scotty kilmer he'll teach you about modern engines with vvti are better with full synthetic oils. I run my lawnmower on penrite 30, change it every season. Im also subcribed to project farm lol
I've run super tech for the past 4 years. I used to run rotella t6 before they changed the formula. The oil test reports look the best for the supertech compared to almost every brand out there, without going to the $45/gallon price range. Googling blackstone labs 'oil brand' reports, you can find both new and used oil tests, with driver's account of their vehicle and driving style. I found it matched my results the one time I sent a sample in. I'm rambling but it'll tell you if you have anything wearing out in your engine based on metal types found in your used oil. Use it.
@@HomieJeans Supertech makes a full synthetic too
i'm a retired mechanic & you guys nailed it, lack of maintenance!. synthetic is ok if you live in AZ where the average temp is 110, then it helps.. i have been using non-synthetics my entire life & never lost an engine or worn out prematurely due to the oil I've used. change oil regularly, its cheap insurance.
FYI: Arizona has below freezing temps, places it's 35 in the morning and 90 midday and the average temp is not 110.
Great interview.
I've run mobil one synthetic for over 25 yrs , i have had very good results , i had a 350 go 537,000 miles i tore it down to check on the condition of the engine, all was good i put some new parts in and gaskets, that engine after the rebuild in an S10 won king of the track, and king of the hill titles drag racing , I've got better mpg, ran cooler,saved money on oil changes, overall a better product than normal oil.
"Bore a 350 over .030 and it makes a 355, doesn't work like that"
Yes it actually works like that.....
Nope.
@@dontblameme6328 yes
Works Exactly like that !! .....What other engine facts he's Wrong about ???
You guys will love this. Lol. I work for a farmer in south Louisiana. He's a 97 year old WWII vet that owns a tugboat company. He doesn't believe in changing the oil in his tractors or his lawn equipment. He says the only reason he will change the oil on his equipment is when its "dirty". His oldest tractor is a '76. He told me he has only changed the oil in that tractor maybe 6 times. And yes, he is the original owner. Lol. All of his tractors have never failed due to engine problems. Amazing!
I know a guy who drives a '05 Chevy 3500 dump body with 200k+ and he claims hes changed the oil twice.
In 90% of vehicles where semi synthetic is recommended..full synthetic is ideal upgrade! Used Mobil1 for 20yrs an now Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for 10yrs in my recent GTDI Ecoboost engines. Run phenomenal!
Will run the exact same with any oil
Thanks for the clarification. I own a First Gen 5.0 and you scared the Sh*( outta me. I keep up on my maintenance I change mine every 6500 and I do short runs mostly. But I live in Texas so this video made me feel better. Thanks. BTW I love my 5.0.
This one and the other video (apparently made at the same time😂) scared the 💩 out of me too. I do live in Florida and also run it usually more than 30 minutes each time, if not more.
Glad I found this video, thanks guys for this makes me think twice about how I run my Plug-in hybrid. Maybe I won't bitch so much about Manufacturer asking me to come in every 5000k km even though it is synthetic. As mostly I drive Ev and drag my gas engine around occasionally using the engine for short trips. Thanks for the tips.
great follow up video! thanks
Very honest and informative...thank you.
I was a dealership tech at the time when the push for synthetic oils was on. The dealership had a quarterly customer appreciation event and I was the tech that got to explain to the new customers that just because the owner's manual for your new Ford says 7500 or 10000 miles between services, that is not a good idea. In the Midwest US, and an agricultural area as well, we still see ~120 F temp swings throughout the year, and lots of dust in the air at planting and harvest, etc. We still recommended 3-5k miles between changes. This also helps keep track of everything else on your car that wears, like tires, belts, brakes, filters, etc.
When asked how often they change their oil most people lie.
same as flossing.
Lot of good advice in this. Father always said oil and grease are better and cheaper mechanics than we are.
Made of lot of sense gents. Just pulled own my 5.4 mod that has run synth all it life 250k with 10k intervals and it's super clean. Agree, changing often is key.
dead on with the oil it's like seasoning a cast iron pan you need to warm it up season it very very lightly and then let it cool and it will slowly coat. if you heat a cast-iron pan up and put a really massive amount of oil on it you just get this sludge sticky feeling all over the pan. Great video good explanation.
I use mixed fleet full synthetic diesel engine oil in everything.
Awesome video guys
Good conversation guys. I'm an old diesel jockey with roughly five million miles behind me,almost all of which was long haul,550-700 miles per day. My favorite motor to get the job done with the least effort was the Cat 3406B,but the most efficient and best money maker for me was a 14 liter Series 60 Detroit that I sold when I retired with just under 1,700,000 miles on it. I replaced all outer engine components multiple times and replaced all of the injectors twice,but never did an in-frame on it. It was still running like new and holding good oil pressure when I sold it. I ran 15-40 Rotella dinosaur oil and changed oil every 12,000-13,000 miles and it was usually down a couple of quarts when I changed it. I was prepared and expecting to do an in-frame from around 900,000 miles on and watched for a drop in oil pressure or any excess metal in the oil,but it just kept going and going.
I always run diesel oil in my gas engine. It's old, carbureted, with flat tappet cam. No sludge whatsoever. Clean as the day I put it together.
We throw 15/40 in our Toyota fleet vehicles (tacomas) we dont even have to touch anything other than the oil fill cap on them for their lifetime with the company (~300k miles)
just make sure you warm it up before driving in the -50F temps i see in montana.
.
they do make a 5w-40 diesel oil.... which would work perfect in said temps
.
but ya.... that T6 rotella is some great shit for old school flap tappets
Tbh I feel like Richards shorts need to be more filthy, this isn’t Rich.
They used to be his white tuxedo shorts
@@domesticelectricinthekeys Indeed. And that was just 3 hours ago.
Those were white golfing shorts that morning
@@DEBOSSGARAGE 🤣
😁
Thanks for that’s good information fella
Great vid fellas
I've been using pennzoil platinum in my Ford crown vic for the last 4 years now. 311,000kms and still going! Always at 8000kms is when I'll change her.
Hell thats just a tick over 193 thousand miles. Thats nothing for a vic even with long oil change intervals
Kijiji sounds like my girlfriend named it while being tickled aggressively.
I love this video(im a geek) i have always changed my oil 3 to 5000 miles.
All the info out there is all over the place, i own a 97 Ranger 4x4 with the gutless 3.0 V6 357,000 miles no major engine components changed.
I totally agree with you guys the oil i use is the basic name brand "On Sale" factory specs.
Great subjects guys.😊