Always good to hear stuff we missed. If you have experience with these engines, leave a comment! Deboss hats are here teespring.com/deboss-hat **Edit* : We're seeing a lot of the same comments about synthetic oil... It's fine to disagree with Scott, just want to make it clear that Scott isn't diagnosing this engine failure as a synthetic oil issue, and neither of us is recommending you run conventional oil in these engines or any engine made to run synthetic. Always run what the manufacturer recommends in your vehicle. Scott also never said synthetic is "inferior" to conventional oil, just that longer drives are much better for these engines in the long run. He also never said synthetic oil is what caused this engine to blow... He said it leaves a tarnish and he has seen crystallization more common in engines running synthetic than not. Not all synthetics are equal, not all bearings are equal...your experience will vary. Go ahead and debate these points, but we didn't speculate on what caused this engine to fail until 22:09 and ultimately we don't know the history or what actually happened. Change your oil and do regular maintenance guys. Again, we make these review videos to discuss engines and their problems as a resource for used vehicle buyers and hotrodders looking to rebuild these. If we didn't like the 5.0 we wouldn't put one in a Bronco...
Another awesome video. Have you considered doing an Everything Wrong with The Oldsmobile Diesel Video? Some part of me wants an Oldmobile Cutlass Supreme manual Diesel (factory option, not a swap) even though the Oldsmobile Diesel has a horrible reputation. Those Oldsmobile Diesels seem rare as hell nowadays.
Exhaust manifolds rusting out and exhaust manifold bolts rusting out, these issues Ford have not managed to fix 20 years later. History repeats itself.
I did alot of the development on this engine at Ford dyno lab in Dearborn MI. Personally the Gen1 and Gen2 are the best. I know alot of people with f150 5.0 that have well into the 200k miles,and have only changed oil,and plugs. No even coils have been changed. In my opinion its the best engine ford offers for the f150,and most under marketed engine. Alot of the durability issues had to do with a bad ground crank. Which was fixed in the XM development stages. If only they offered the 7.3 push rod in the f150 lol
Yeah I don't buy all that stuff about synthetic causing deposits and mixing brands being a problem. It looks like it just didn't get changed often enough.
@@fccoz8348 The only 5.0 issues that you may run into are failed cam phasers and solenoids, and oil consumption. That's literally it. The new generation ones also make a bunch of bullshit noises, but nothing that's been shown to be negative.
Like I wrote elsewhere. The basic engine design was the Ford modular engine family. They were used in police and taxi service and they would last a million miles when serviced well.
Great to hear. I have 41,000 on mine and change oil every 5,000 (miles) and ALWAYS use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Also changed my rear diff, transfer case, and tranny fluids already. I baby my trucks.
I hate to be that guy but as a Ford Tech of 20 years there was a lot of misinformation shared in this video. Put synthetic in your Ford. Dont use FRAM and you'll be good.
Why should we listen to you? Ford are the ones that made these shitty engines in the first place.😂 This guy actually has to work on Ford's mistake unlike Ford tech that are just gonna keep putting the same shitty stock parts on even when they know the engine has a problem. Cough cough powerstoke 6.0
@@rickshiandmoku4128 while I dont disagree with you that Fords are crap. I drive a Toyotas and an Infiniti. Imports only for me. I enjoy being a Ford tech because I know I will make a great living for my family fixing these vehicles that will constantly need work 😄
Horseshit. "A lot of misinformation". He didn't say "don't run synthetic", he said "here's how we see synthetic burning down in a Ford motor". If you're a Ford technician, well we're almost guaranteed this guy rebuild more motors than you.
@@RealityGutPunch He's not Ford tech....... Toyotas and all other Brands have problems too. I am a tech all brands break and have issues. Problems also stem from owners who never take care of vehicle just drive it and then complain. How many do you see with warning light, check engine light, ABS light on but keep going because car still moves and drives. Whats thats noise/rattle and then crash because ball joint or tie rod end fall off. THEN have nerve go online this car a piece of crap and it going to cost me 1500 they're ripping me off for 100 dollar part. They don't you what else it destroyed from that 100 dollar part. I've seen things that would scare you and how could they keep driving it that way
Rich I’m sure a lot of us would love to see a 3.5 ecoboost torn down. Lots of questions surrounding longevity of small displacement engines pushing big numbers for long periods of time. Love the channel and content keep up the good work!
Fordtechmakeyouloco has a whole series on the eco boost. I did a timing chain based on his videos on a 3.5 ecoboost in a 2013 f150. Lots of stuff to take off to get to the chains.
@@Mr.Beastforpresident same shortblock as the 91-95 mustang and 96-2001 explorers so it was nothing special except programming and some expensive badges
15:45 Wait a minute... Did this guy just say that over-boring an engine doesn't increase the capacity because the over-sized pistons are designed differently, to maintain the standard compression ratio? Changing the pistons makes no difference to the swept volume, only bore and stroke can do that!
@@wim0104 (1/3) As I understand it, the point was that increasing the bore of an engine would also increase the compression ratio (as the engine is now squeezing more fuel/air mix into the same combustion chamber). Increased compression ratios will increase the risk of pre-ignition (pinking, pinging or knock), where the fuel/air mix ignites prematurely, due to the heat of compression, rather than being ignited by the spark from the spark plug.
Oil has a finite capacity carying for holding dissolved pollutants...exceed that capacity and sludge will stick everywhere. It doesn't matter if it's synthetic of mineral. This dude is making too many assumptions about the engine's past life.
That poor engine has had a hard life, you can tell. I've had many modular engines with well over 200,000 miles with no failures. Changing the oil is key with these engines.
Agreed ive seen some crazy high mileage mod motors still running strong. Ive had more than i can count on my hands and never had an issue besides my 04 mach 1 pushing coolant
That’s true for most engines. The engines that die in 100,000 miles are usually the ones where the last person to change the oil was the guy that assembled the engine together.
@@hilljackzack7284 I worked at a Chrysler dealership as a technician. We had a customer bring there vehicle in for the free oil change they receive for buying it. It had about 17k on it. Now the customer said he'd had it changed a few times before, what he didn't know is that we could distinguish oil filters from factory. Then people wonder why "cars aren't made like they use to be!"
4GsRacing no it’s just that people don’t do maintenance on them anymore. My Dodge Ram runs fine and I do all the maintenance myself because I don’t trust anyone else to work on my rig.
@@stevieray1828 That's because the Tundra's using a decade and a half old engine of which the bugs were worked out of it well over 10 years ago that drinks gas like its going out of style while miraculously making less power than pretty much all of its competition hold for the 5.3L Chevy's. I get the people like to suck Toyota off for reliability but the way Toyota maintains the reliability is simply by making no changes to their product for long periods of time they lack innovation a 2021 Toyota Tundra is mechanically nearly identical to a 2007 Toyota Tundra.
@@nathanmcdonald610 true that the engine and transmission have been used for a long time. There have been minor changes, but the truck has remained durable. Also true the mpgs stink, yet Tundra has lowest cost of ownership. Don't get upset that one brand is more reliable than another. Innovations are great when they make the vehicle safer and more reliable, but cheaper made and competitively marketed just to get the sales isn't a better route to go. Toyota has the safety sense on all models, even the 14 year old tundra. Not a bad innovation
I'd say it got oil changes, but it was in a truck used as a grocery getter, sat around in traffic, and driven less than 30 miles a day for an extended period of time.
I worked in a oil change shop for years. Conventional oils leave that sludge build up. I have put 230,000 miles on my old 4.6 only used Mobile 1 full syn. Looked brand new on the inside.
he clarified it in a later video, but what he meant apparently is that the synthetic does this because some people follow the 10k-15k oil change intervals. He didn't state it very well.
Was thinking the same. Or engines which use synthetic all have a golden shine and not the least amount of any non liquid trace. Amazing really and I haven't opened engines with less than 230.00km on them. To be fair, I rarely open engines because there is just never a reason to. Only things breaking are accessory and tidbits. Even at 400.000km, the block with bearings and surfaces looks like new. Provided you do not change your oil later than 10-12.000km.
they only make small engines with high output, short life, counter productive, cos the greenies & epa say so.. this,is why engines dont last & break. european specs are euro 6 emmisions. nothing comes out the exhaust.. its all bullsht.
@@Terminxman Your right. I argue this at work all the time. The ones I argue with have contradictory logic. Most of them do extended oil changes but trade their vehicles every 2 yrs. I have an 05 FX4 (yeah the dreaded 5.4 triton) with 183k on it. Changed oil every 3k since new. Did have the phasers, followers, and vct solenoids upgraded at 124k when the plugs were changed. I admit I waited too long on the plugs, now change them at 50K. None broke off luckily. I attribute this (just my opinion) to 3k mile oil changes. I've never owned a vehicle that had less than 200k. I had a 72 impala that had over 300k. The guy I sold it to drove it for 3 yrs after to my knowledge. I follow the same early schedule for the transmission, diff, and transfer case. Bottom line is, I enjoy driving. I can't do that unless my vehicle is well maintained. It's a good thing because the 5.4 will not last unless it's well maintained. All motors are the same in this respect, but the triton is an engineering nightmare. I hate working on it. It is good for light off roading because mine's not lifted and it pulls a 20 ft center console like it ain't nothing. Get's at best 15 mpg. I've owned chevy's, dodges, mazda's and fords. All lasted 200k or more. People......Change your fluids. Believe me it's the easiest maintenance you can do.
@@Terminxman then what's the point of going synthetic if you're not going to be able to extend your oil changes? What possible difference is there in just using either the same or a lesser viscous oil if the OEM calls for synthetic and it's only advantage is it gets into the engine crevices easier?
I just got to say... Taking the time to make the video I'm sure everybody appreciates very much. I just have to add; the video hits differently knowing you own a 5.0 f150 and want to see deeper into the engine and your taking it apart right before our eyes! Great video!
The discolouration between different banks on a V configuration engine is due to the PCV gases traveling from one bank, with fresh air from the intake tube, through the block to the other bank and sucked out through the PCV valve into the intake manifold. I've seen this especially doing timing chain jobs on GM 3.6l high feature V6. It bakes the "hot bank" with the heat from the "cool bank".
I dont know if he was talking specifically about coyotes but he said the rod bearing staying on the crank is bad. I just pulled apart a junkyard 4.8 ls. Some of the rod bearings stuck because of the oil. The machining lines are still on the bearings and the journals and rods have literally perfect clearance, I miced every one and they were all exact. So in my experience that is not the case.
As an ex Mobil Oil employee, I can state with authority that Mobil's testing shows nothing like what you see in this engine. M1 synthetic oil, changed regularly, will result in clean engine internals. Period, end of story.
lol facts based worst oil in category fails every evap test first and foremost along with the zinc levels being sad like every aspect of the oil is terrible .
Im an apprentice working on ship engines and I absolutely love the channel. The videos at the machine shop are SO interesting, especially because it's exactly the same stuff Im learning on a small scale, keep the vids coming!
I've used Mobile One full synth. in my '89 Dodge 2.5l turbo since I bought it new. I change at 8500 miles. Those little Chryslers were noted for eating head gaskets. Iv'e changed 5 of them in its 31 year life span ( 300,000 + miles ) It gives me a chance to check out the head/valves/cylinder bores. Even though its turbocharged, the engine is always clean inside. No smudge, sludge, or coking. Turbo has never had an issue.The cross hatch hone pattern is still visible on the cylinder walls. Your buddies assessment of full synthetic motor oil is WAY OFF BASE. Please let him know he is spreading false info on your channel. I'm not affiliated with any oil company. I base my statements on decades of experience working on my own vehicles. Your friend bases his on assumptions. Love your channel!
What car is it in? I had a bunch of those 80's Chrysler turbos back in the day ~20 yrs ago and was on all the mailing lists and later forums. I had never even heard of an EFI motor sludging until I sold them all and moved into newer stuff! In many ways they are trouble free compared to a lot of this newer stuff, and super simple to work on and fix. I had pretty good luck with haed gaskets but they all leaked like sieves - the 'ongoing oil change'. :)
@@runner3033 The old boy with 300K + miles is an '89 Dodge Spirit ES turbo 4-door sedan, 5 speed manual. I have also parted out a '91 Dodge Shelby Daytona turbo 5 speed and used the front chassis and power train to build a single front wheel trike. ( Mid engine ) Its running 17 pounds boost...scary fast. Those little motors are simple, easy to work on and for the most part, very reliable with only routine maint. Head gaskets are the only thing to ever fail. I use Mobile One exclusively in both engines. Never any sludge.
i’ve worked for ford as a mechanic since this motor came out and i’ve had the least amount of issues with the first gen (11-14) 5.0 out of them all. and i’ve never seen the rod bearings go so i’m surprised to hear that that is a major problem with them
I'm looking to get one with around 100k+ miles. I currently have one in my mustang ( absolutely love the motor) but the mt-82 is trash so I'm trying to get rid of it and lower my payment. How many miles can you get realistically get out of the 5.0 (with proper maintenance of course)
@@brendank4927 Like Thomas said, 200k easy. With proper maintenance I've seen 3 to 400k. Just treat it well and don't forget to get some time and distance on it at least once or twice a month to help burn off gunk. (IMO)
Just FYI, Ford's first aluminum 32 valve DOHC V8 was the 1940 through 1950 GAA engine, 1,100 cubic inches. Initially designed as a 60 degree V-12 for aircraft, it was cut down to a V8 for use in the Sherman tank. So Ford had some experience when they developed the mod motor. There are still a few GAAs around, I've seen some RUclips videos of them running on stands.
As someone who's spent almost 2 decades in the auto repair industry I can't agree more about changing synthetic oil much more frequently than the manufacturer suggests. This whole trend of "lowest maintenance in its class" just means 4cyl engines now take 8 quarts of full syn when typically they always took 4 of conventional. People don't drive far enough to properly heat cycle the motor and burn off moisture and its causing as many issues as E85 is to fuel systems.
Well you just answered my question I just asked. I'll be switching back to regular oil because I drive short commutes 3-4 times a day ranging from 2-5 miles with an hour in between.
@@davidkmillerphotography Just my opinion, but the synthetic will still work better for your application. They flow better and lubricate better at room temperature and so they are easier on the motor than a conventional when not up to operating temp. Your mpg should have a slight improvement too. That thing about sludge he said in the video, this is the first time I've heard anyone say that about synthetics, and I've done way too much reading about oils lol. Mike's main point is that you need to change your oil at a lower mileage number because regardless of the oil used, short drives are hard on them. That said, unless you're turbocharged or running a high performance application, conventional will probably work fine.
@@randr10 exactly. If the vehicle calls for synthetic then run it. There are API ratings that oil has to meet and synthetic (like all oils) have what's called an "add pack" or added chemicals such as friction modifiers and detergents which help to achieve something the manufacturer is depending on being there. Synthetic oil is great at cleaning out motors of sludge so switching to full synthetic on a high mileage engine can and does uncover issues hidden by coking or "sludge" Also synthetic oil does not have the same issue with "going bad " so that's why you don't hear the X number of months or X miles with synthetic oil. The problem I see is that people think synthetic is some magic bullet when in reality it's a great product IF used as intended.
That means you it works for your driving habits and your oil is getting to warm up burn moisture out etc. I assure you I change tons of engines under 100,000 miles and thr only common factor is they did once year or 12000 miles changes. I see so many engines ruined by extended changes its hilarious
Guy's misinformed on synthetic oil. That engine left the factory on synthetic, then went to the local Jiffy Lube and still did the extended drain interval. Then he gets the engine, assumes it's been on synthetic, and makes the false assumptions on synthetic oil.
Yes. He says he doesn’t know anything about the engines he gets handed. Then proceeds to guess their history. And make blames on products because of these guesses. That’s a lot of variables
He's either going by the lies he's been told by the owner, or the owner themselves was lied to and wasn't getting the premium synthetic they were paying for.
Allan Vaneste you say that but that’s not true actually. I’ve learned this from breaking in motorcycle engines. It’s not a terrible idea to use a “break” in oil. But engines have to get use to running loads and ring seal. Oil it oil. It’s going to be there regardless between metal components. Tolerances are tighter at break in not looser. Rings have wear in angles also, just like “hard” break ins are a terrible idea
This engine was not the first engine this guy tore down. He is a professional engine re-builder and as he stated he builds them for Ford dealerships. That makes him far more qualified to make his statement than any of you to make yours unless you each have the track record to back it up.
I had a buddy that brazed an 1 1/2" cummins oil plug into his 302 pan. He could change the oil in the time it took him to fill the gas tank, he would do it at the gas station while filling the tank. Lol got some looks for sure.
I heard that the color change is that the right bank (passenger) is the last to get oil that has to feed through all the holes and hydraulic parts. Only cure is a more powerful oil pump.
@@blackericdenice The early 4.6 ltr Ford V8 had sludge and smoking issues because of the EGR placement. But, in overhead cam phaser engines, the complex passages starves the right bank.
Them talking about old pushrod technology and overhead being the way of the future made me think of the saying "change for the sake of change isn't always progress".
One of the greatest lines ever! Tell that to these LEFTIST Democrats Also, with the word " Progressive " There is upward progress, in a positive direction And there is downhill progress, in a negative sense...
Overhead cams have more benefits than downsides over a pushrod other than complexity and cost. Less rotating mass, better oiling, variable valve timing (a benefit and widens the power band but is more complex and is a failure point). Some of the most reliable engines ever made (Toyotas) are overhead cam engines. THere’s a reason. All things being equal a OHC engine isn’t really more “Complex” than a pushrod one. It’s such a strange misconception.
@@WhiteManXRP not sure why boneheads just have to bring politics into any conversation. What does tearing down ANY engine have anything to do with politics? Nothing! Leave your peanut gallery comments inside your pea sized brain. (Like that’s going to happen, lol)
@@Terminxmanlol sure bud pushrod engines have alot less parts in them and got more low in tq and last twice along 1 CAM 16 valves overhead cam V8 has 32 valves and 4 cams just asking for trouble all those parts in a Engine even Ford built a 7.3 pushrod engine few yrs ago for there super duty trucks because they new it's a better Design than a overhead cam Engine
There's nothing inherent about the OHV or OHC that makes one or the other make more low end torque you fudd. There are a lot of variables, intake design, valve size, exhaust size, port size, came profile, valve timing, etc. DUrr just look at GM and RAM with their endless ticking and oil burning with OHV engines while the 5.0 is bulletproof. Same with Toyota, everything Toyota has made for like 50 years has been OHC. @@donaldkinder6716
What gives you the right to discredit. Short answer is read the side of a bottle of synthetic oil it suggests longer oil change intervals, so not changing oil came from the use of synthetic oil. Long answer is here second video made specially for the youtube experts. 🙄 ruclips.net/video/tDpTPxinNyo/видео.html
@@dalelc43 Common sense, you should try some. This "engine builder" is a moron and I feel sorry for ANY customer who's engine he put together. He's absolutely clueless.
@@tundras4ever552 Its blowby and poor oil change schedule that does that. You recognize it instantly after being around Hondas or imports for awhile. My 2014 Ford would spray oil across the entire engine bay if you took the oil cap off. Brutal blow by. But my 2012 Tahoe (5.3 LS) doesn't spray anything.. theres nearly no air movement with it off
Man I gotta say, this is Ona the best "inside secrets" videos on ford engines I've ever seen. As a mechanic, this Info is sooooo valuable to me. I don't really work on gas engines as much but I am a knowledge seeker and this is super fascinating stuff. This guy knows his shit!
The 6.2 in my work truck developed an intermittent bottom end knock under warranty. Dealer pulled the pan and found two main caps with loose bolts. They put a new engine in it.
repairvehicle whatever, I have a Tahoe that is just about undriveable because it’s always a new problem. That is a true piece of shit. I work my ford truck everyday and it has been almost flawless aside from the stated problem. Every single GM product I have owned over the years has left me stranded in one way or the other, all of the fords got me back home.
I had a LS1 in a 2004 GTO. It was a great engine. Never had one problem. Haven't seen one video tearing down a LS1 and examining common problems. Probably because there weren't any.
@@fordnut4914 well maybe the ls models that come in a base model truck with high usage. But with the high-performance LS1 I've never seen any documentation of that.
I work at the dealer closest to his shop. And we never send engines to him.... customers get the choice of a new or used engine from millers/Glendale. We also never see that kind of build up unless the engine wasn't maintained. And there is no service interval for 5.0 timing chain's. And the 17+ truck engines tend to be less reliable.
@@vojnikjna30 The guy is still right though. It's a shame the 3rd Gen Coyote didn't maintain the cast iron sleeves and standard port injection at least for the F-150.
Its this kind of talk that makes me want to keep ridin my 2V out of fear. GM and Chrysler seem to have their own set of engine failure issues with the V8s. They all perform so astoundingly well its a crying shame.
Thank you for your videos. My experience is as a cab driver using Lincoln Towncars 4.6L engines and they gave me about 400k miles in average, using regular oil and maybe refurbished oil as the company made the oil changes. Driving almost 24/7, idling a lot, AC on always (FL weather!!!), and keeping up with maintenance gave me very few break downs besides transmissions. I’ve been so happy that I’ve bought a 2010 signature limited for myself when I stopped the cab business. Mine had 106k miles when I purchased it and it sounds like new to me. Used synthetic at first change, drove 9k, changed a couple weeks ago with mobil1 synthetic 5w30 and just now watching your videos come to me that we didn’t use synthetic back then. I’ll use this for 3-5k then switch to regular oil. Two questions though: 1- is the Lincoln engine different from the straight Ford 4.6? Better? 2- what’s a good regular oil to use? And filter? Thank you so much for your efforts to educate mechanics and buyers about your experience with these engines without bashing us down!
Cool video, but skeptical of all the negative claims about synthetic. I have never heard any of the claims stated from other sources. I believe as a Ford lover he is inclined to blame other things for failures of the engine.
@@daveyb2552 one major perk of synthetics is how the oil doesn't sludge up due to moisture not boiling / evaporating off during a short drive. His statements on synthetics contradict all of the professional data I've read, and anecdotal data I've gathered from personal engines. The only statement which has any validity is to not mix certain synthetics. Different brands use different base stocks, which may or may not play well together. I recall recommendation to not mix Amsoil with Mobile1, but it was fine to mix Amsoil with Redline. (my apologies if I have that backwards) The key here is to run one brand of synthetic, use a good filter (Wix is my preference), and change your oil based on oil analysis or your MFGs recommended change interval.
Different colors on each side is due to the pcv system. Fresh air in leads to the cleaner side and the crappier side is where it gets drawn out. At least from what I have seen in years of experience. Super useful and very informative video. Really starting to like this channel more. The LS and LT are short height. Not massively wide or too dam tall. Not overcomplicated either.
Bingo! The fresh air side will be cleaner, the vacuum side of the PCV will be dirtier! It's a no-brainer, if you know engines and how the PVC system works. The best PCV system pulls the crankcase/block fumes from a central point with fresh air entering both valve covers.
i commented this also dude is one of those just say things for fun guys the 3.6 Chevy does it worst 100% breathing issues if anything non syn would make it worst .
The 5.7 hemi is pretty phenomenal the valve seats wear out from constant dogging but once replaced with the upgraded seats those things are unstoppable and destroy both 6.0 and 5.0 with power I dont know a lot about the 6.2 hemi
I have a 2011 150 XLT w the first gen 5.0. Up to date on oil changes and regular maintenance and just surpassed 158 thousand with no issues at all. Such an amazing engine, ford really stepped up from the old tritons
I wouldn't trust anyone to rebuild my engine that doesn't understand basic math, SMH What an idiot this guy is , along with his nonsense about synthetics 🤣
Yeah. He doesn't understand displacement. He also doesn't understand synthetic oil. Bearings staying with the crank happens all the time because of surface tension in the oil. It does not mean anything at all. It is better not to speak if you don't know what you're speaking about.
Displacement is dictated by swept volume within the cylinder (i.e. bore diameter and crank throw). Piston height only changes compression ratio. What is the guy on about?
@@Jack-tx2ve He said: "When we replace them with 'factory' pistons, they bring the compression down". There are no 'oversized' pistons here. When you bore out a cylinder and put the same pistons you counteract the increased bore with less compression. The guy then says 'why' people do this, which is for sound. They have to bore out the cylinders to refresh them and hes arguing against a misunderstood norm. I had absolutely no problem understanding what the guy said and infact took away knowledge which takes years of experience that books don't talk about, whether or not in it's complete form.
@@hackersulamaster why would you bore an engine oversize and run a standard piston? That would throw your piston to bore clearance out the window, they'd be slapping around in the bores like nobody's business...
Yeah, I thought the 300 six was the best engine Ford ever made but now I have had three 4.6's 2005 being the newest and I gotta' say they are one damn good engine!
I drive a 2V-V10 daily and only issues are it’s a gas hog. The coil packs aren’t the issue, it’s a dirty MAF sensor, keep it clean and it will run forever! Those engines have a 100,000 mile plug maintenance so your good, now being I said that, buy the nickel plugs, use antiseeze and torque to between 11-16 ftlbs, your good. I torqued mine to 16. The V10 will use a quart of oil every 4000 miles and that’s even a healthy well cared for V10. Mine does, everybody I know that has or had one said same thing . Don’t forget, Ford built a standard Headed V-10 and a PI headed 10, the PI is the one you want and most likely find, the Non PI is rare, I have the Non PI engine(99). Also, the truck and van engine differ but can be converted if you have the van to truck and or truck to van parts donor. I pulled a V10 from a Ford F53 chassis, is based on a van, I simply swapped my truck pan, oil cooler, mounts, etc to the new engine and it drops in a F-250 no issues.hope this is helpful.
I recently got a used M3 (yea I know) it uses one specific oil that must be changed every 2500 miles. Now I understand why that should be done. Thanks guys very interesting learning about synthetic oil.
This was great to see, as the first gen is what's in my truck I've had since new. She's made it 90k miles on 10k oil changes with Mobil 1 extended drain varieties. Even sent a sample to Blackstone labs 20k ago because the long intervals always bothered me, but their report said it was legit, and I could even probably go to 12k (I'm sticking to 10). I'm actually thinking about pulling valve covers at 100k to see if I have any build up, and making sure the screens on my vvt solenoids aren't getting plugged.
I'm bias towards GM but have had no major issues with any Ford's. I religiously run Mobil synthetic and have for many many years. I started when GM's performance cars recommended the oil right on the oil caps. I thought time and time again about trying other oils but at the end of the day I always go back to Mobil Synthetic. I think they've honestly been the same since day one and I've never had an engine that had an issue with it. I try to change it every 5k to 7.5k miles as well depending on what kind of vehicle it is. Everybody claims there are better synthetic oils out there and I'm sure for a lot of cases and specific situations there may be. It just seems like whenever synthetic oil is being blamed for a problem... which isn't that often... it's never Mobil that they've been running.
Good to hear that some people do proper maintenance. Money well spent to prevent an issue before it becomes an expensive one to fix. I had the dreaded 3v 5.4 in my F150. I stayed up on maintenance and never had an issue. Albeit I likely wouldn't but another F150 it was a great truck.
@@TheUltimateCrash1990 The engine itself has been flawless (as long as you don't count lack of torque as a flaw). I've replaced a couple of minor accessories (oil cooler assembly, radiator hose coupler o-rings, starter occasionally didn't want to engage) but all those are easy, fairly cheap, as as I see it, nothing is perfect, and considering the regular abuse the truck sees, it's held up great.
My Honda Accord v6 looked sparkly clean inside after 110k mikes when I did timing belt, always ran Mobil 1. I do plenty of short trips. Change oil at 7-10k miles...
Your Honda uses a Timing Belt not a Timing Chain. To replace or service the timing chains/ components, you need to remove the timing cover which also is sealed to prevent oil from leaking out.
@@jamesmedina2062 you said your Honda looked clean inside at 110 miles. I'm assuming you are talking about the view you got of your timing belt components when you removed your timing cover to replace the timing belt. Your Honda is designed with a externally driven timing belt. The timing chain is internally driven which uses oil pressure and oil as lubrication for operation. So what I'm getting at is you can't really see how clean your engine is because you're not actually looking inside of your engine. I hope I'm not confusing.
Christopher Mohamed Ok bro that was Jacob and he said 110,000 not 110. I asked what your point is because timing belt usually means the valve cover is off. The valve cover gasket needs replacement and it is usually one piece covering everything
To anyone who has one of these that has a sleeve issue and you're thinking about having it repaired get a quote from your machine shop and then look into a replacement block. The price on these has come down quite a bit. You can get a replacement 2ed gen block, for example, for around $800 + freight.
I have been an owner of a F-150 since 2019. I am trying to learn and understand much as I can about my truck, especially the engine. Great information.
@@elgayetas well lets hope they go back to sleeving them, rather than spraying on the cylinder liner, that's mostly what the issue was with the ones from 2018 and up.
@@elgayetas what happens with cylinder distortion? Mine 2019 uses oil and I’m trying to figure out why. Ford keeps doing oil consumption tests and TSB’s.
@@emerylandry2074 If you have a 5.0L that sufferers from the cylinder distortion issue it'll develop a pronounced knock that will be rhythmically faster if you are revving the engine up to accelerate or something. Keep in mind these 5.0L's are kind of noisy to began with because they are DOHC ''and direct injection if a 2018 or newer model''. If they sound find otherwise and there's no audible knock when driving from in the cab, you're fine. If its an obvious knock though, you may have a real problem.
Background: Gear head that did auto repair for people who didn't get satisfactory results from dealers and I starting from age 14 where I had to have other people available for tests drives. I also designed and built electronic circuits for companies. Then college for Automotive Technology where I learned the engineering. I signed up for the Guard and wanted to be a mechanic there, and did a little too good, so they made me an aircraft mechanic and I was terrified of heights. I built drag engines where I did Chevys, Mopars, and Fords. Like this video says, it has ALWAYS cost way more to build a Henry than a Chevy. I personally did Fords because winning with one made a statement. I did engines, transmission, and rear axles at a Ford dealer because they were less frustrating to work on because they used dedicated castings instead of brackets supporting brackets supporting brackets, and the working environment was nicer. I left there to work on vehicles for the Guard full time to work on trucks, radios, equipment, and a CEV (tank with an oversize gun), but their real angle is they wanted someone they could lay their hands on for manage their remote aviation section. They made me the supervisor of the section. I got sick and threw up all the time, after which I bought a share in an airplane because I could get free flight time for maintaining it, and learned to fly. Later, my instructor called me and said he just got an aerobatic plane and I should...which I did. That grew into waivers for academy and "fright school" and flying for them for 5 years and getting out as captain. My thoughts: *** Disclaimer: I don't have broad experience with synthetics, only Mobile 1. I chose Mobile 1 due to the way it is manufactured gives them ultimate control, and the mix of additives for wear. Does more control mean better? I don't know. 1. From my experience with Mobile 1, oils keep things A LOT CLEANER. If you switch to it on an older engine with not such a great change history, your oil will get REAL dirty fast because it puts the crap back in suspension, which is your call as to whether this is good or bad, and it comes out with the oil. I'm aware of the Castrol court case they lost where they claimed they were 57% better at preventing sludge. While they lost, you may find significant that they based their claim on data from Mercedes-Benz testing. The ruling was against them because it only proved it on that engine and their proprietary testing. Castrol's reply was sludge is sludge. They lost another one on lubricity in that they showed some cruel load over an 8 hour period on some engine that theirs was the only one that held up. They lost because those conditions but I thought you might find it interesting. After Castrol's formula change to a mineral oil base, they got sued for calling it synthetic, but the challenger lost in court. If you check what it takes to be called synthetic, you will find it to be defined by court cases rather than science and logic. 2. IMO the problem with synthetics is they say, "Our oil is good for 6,000, 10,000, or 15,000 miles, so it's better and less expensive overall." Then people follow that marketing advice and you get what you see. How long anti-wear additives does matter, and even the longevity of the detergent properties to some degree, but the amount of byproducts of combustion and other factors doesn't change that much. Other things mostly for entertainment value. 1. Kinematic viscosity on the can is in SAE Saybolt seconds. It is measured by how fast the oil flows through an orifice at a standardized temperature, 100F now 40C(104F) to make metric. From an engineering perspective, it is no longer used. When you look at multi-viscosity motor oil, the W is a predicate for the first number. To simplify, it is simply stating that when the oil is cold, its properties are like the first number, and when hot like the second number. Most engine wear occurs after startup of a cold engine and cranking is easier and thinner helps. When warmed up though, the more viscous oils shear properties are better at maintaining the oil film under pressure. You may have noticed the trend toward thinner oils in cars. This is because most use roller rockers and lifters which is why the higher viscosity oils were needed and no longer are. Thinner oil is better if you can run them without breaking down the oil film, and there is less parasitic loss. There is actually way more to it than this such as when you modify the viscosity gradient, you still need to maintain the sheer strength so it preserves the oil film. Again, there is more to this such as cranking, etc. However what might be useful to you is the critical number is the second number. If your car states to use 5W20, use 0W20. The 5W was driven by what was commonly available. Oil is always too thick when it is cold. Another thing is the zero does not mean it is 5 thinner than 5W. There are no negative numbers so all zero tells you is it is less than 1. Just don't mess with the top number because that is the required shear strength required. (For modified engines and racing you are on your own and stock oil and clearances aren't going to work.) 2. Less popular today, but still in some applications you will see the recommendation for non-detergent oils. Cars used to use non-detergent oils as do other machinery. There is a wives tale that goes that's because detergent oils foam in those applications. It's not that that has never happened, but it was considered a defect of the oil and thus any instances have long since been remedied. The reason for this is old cars, small engines, air compressors, etc. use splash lubrication. The oil pan was the settling point for debris and in effect the oil filter, thus you don't want to keep the crap in circulation. On old cars, the oil pan is easily dropped and it is part of the scheduled maintenance. With pressurized oil systems, keeping particles in suspension is exactly what you want to have happen so they can be removed from the system by the oil filter. Today, non-detergent oils are hard to find, and even splash oil systems often list multi-vis detergent oils as an alternate or primary and might be better than a straight-weight non-detergent if you change it frequently. 3. The anti-wear additive levels have generally been reduced in newer oils because they affected the life of the catalytic converter. This is something else I was watching when selecting an oil. There are ways to skirt that with additives or racing oils, but this is ever changing and I'm not interested enough to keep up on it. 4. The SAE rating for gear oil uses a different scale than engine oil. Example: 75W-90 gear oil is about the same viscosity as 10W-40 motor oil and it has totally different linearity. 5. Probably don't use aviation turbine oil in a car engine. You won't have ANY varnish like you saw on that engine. The oil will be very fluid across an incredible temperature range, which would be great for cold weather. Now for the downsides. Jet engines don't have pistons and rings sliding up and down on cylinder walls that might shear the oil film nor do they have sleeve bearings. You've never seen quality in bearings like you see on a jet engine. You could have an APU that runs at a steady 115,000 rpm. On small turbines the gas producer might run at 55,000. You also have gears of quality like you've never seen that bring those RPM down to sane values to feed a fan and accessory gear boxes and do it reliably over many thousands of hours with zero issues. Their main bearings do not have rubber seals, they use what is called labyrinth seals and pressure differentials. The compressor generates much more pressure than the output and that is used to keep oil where it belongs and to cool (relatively) components through small holes located strategically throughout the engine to keep components temperatures within range. When bearings get really hot is after shutdown when that process stops and heat moves to the bearings, called heat soaking. Any varnish causes them to what is termed as "coke the bearings", e.g. make hard carbon deposits that will freeze the bearings, which is why you won't see varnish at car engine temperatures with turbine oil. You also NEED to wear gloves. I've gotten it into a cut a few times and it kills the skin around it and turns it into a callous that you can pick out over time. Everything grows back fine, but if motor oil on your skin is a threat, turbine oil might be far worse based on its effects. So the game for turbine oil isn't wear from scuff resistance from sliding surfaces, it is maintaining a standard viscosity across a crazy temperature range, simple lubrication, cooling, and not oxidizing/coking the bearings, which is exactly what those fine anti-wear and sludge preventing additives would do to a turbine engine. They have a lot few products of combustion to deal with. AutoZone probably won't be interested in your drain oil. One could say that a car engine running it MIGHT not last as long using it even if it doesn't have an oil film issue. OTOH, the oil would be fluid when cold so that might make up for around town drivers. You can try it and let me know. You can buy it for ~$2400 for 50 gallons, which works out to $12/quart. It would have been fun to try on a water dyno when I had access to one in school.
He had the 4.6 and 5.4 all confused. 5.4 have a bigger stroke not bore. It’s essentially a stroked 4.6. They use the same piston. Also a town at does not have a 4v 4.6 and a cobra motor is a 4v. Not a 2v.
That discoloration is NOT from synthetic Oil lol. I’ve never in my entire automotive career seen an engine run on synthetic oil do that. This guy is clueless.
@EyeGotThaPooOnMe I mean, it does seem like shop-lore rather than fact that synthetic oil would be to blame for discoloration. is silence when it comes to the two sides being different colors is.. telling, but then he immediately goes again to blame synthetic for what he mentioned just a couple of cuts before could be attributed to it being driven short distances and not getting to temperature (plausible), and synth oil crystallizes (citation needed) and accumulates in places and gunks up more? Ok, now that I watched the entire thing, WHAT'S HIS PROBLEM WITH SYNTHETIC OIL? He pulls "facts" out of his arse the entire video, doesn't even know more than Rich about the engine he's supposed to be the expert in (fixed like 3 of them... since they came out in 2011... which rounds to ... one every 3 years?!?!?) "Every engine on Synthetic oil burns oil" wut?!?!?! Every other phrase out of his mouth needs a [citation needed], like he professes all these issues with synthetic oil that HAVEN'T BEEN FOUND IN ANY REPUTABLE RESEARCH OVER THE LAST 20+ YEARS because he clearly knows more then thousands of engineers employed by oil companies and car manufacturers that recommend synthetic oil because he rebuilt 3 DAMAGED engines and blamed it on synthetic oil for the damage, not rough usage, not bad maintenance, not lack of oil changes, but the fact that it was synthetic oil.
Yep same guy that couldn’t get a man lift with a GM 3.0liter to run so he put a carburetor on top of the TBI to keep it running. Guy is a total hack job and hasn’t a clue what he’s doing either.
@@South_0f_Heaven_ are you talking about Scott? Interested in the TBI video if you have a link. His BS about displacement being affected by compression height put him on my "don't listen to" list.
@@Peterowsky Tend to agree, most of it looks like regular old varnish & sludging from lack of oil changes, excessive heat, or lack of oil - seen it a hundred times before and it's always on engines with no service history or known bad service history - never seen an engine that has had proper maintenance look like this no matter what oil has been used even with hundreds of thousands of km's, even with city driving. This engine has just been horribly abused by some clueless fucktard IMO.
yes I've never heard bad stuff about syntho, the part I think he's mixed up by is compression ratio vs displacement, boring .030" over will always increase the displacement regardless of compression ratio. If the new piston is lower, you'd lower the compression ratio but if the bore and piston is bigger, you'll have bigger displacement, 350 to 355 which also makes more power.
Synthetic oil has nothing to do with a dirty engine. It’s lack of oil changes. Synthetics keep engines cleaner period. Actually most conventional oil is a synthetic blend. It has to be to be able to meet the stringent new SN+, SP specs
I agree with most conventional oil is a syn blend. The only problem is drivers nowadays don't use the proper viscosity in their engines. And sludge deposits are likely to form in engines any how, regardless of conventional or synthetic.
This guy is a joking I hope lol this isn’t from synthetic oil it’s from not changing the oil and one side is dirty because one side is pvc side and the other is fresh air and they didn’t really have rod bearing failure problem they had some manufacturing problemS it wasn’t even a real issue it was like .04 percent of 1pecent
@@kimchipig The hate comes from car guys who watch idiots go 7-10K mikes on Synthetic because the oil cost more to buy and is so "much better than conventional".
@@cp6027 I do every 10k kms on my coyote. I did an oil analysis on my last change. They said there still another 10k I can get out of that oil. Will I go 20k for an oil change? No. I follow Ford drain intervals of 8-10k miles. Synthetic is only double the price of conventional. I can get 2 5 litres pennzoil ultra platinum jugs for 30/each on sale, plus pennzoil has a 10 dollar rebate for 5 litre jugs. So I'm paying 50 dollars for 10 litres. I find it funny how people obsess over oil intervals. Follow the manual and your good to go. Pretty sure the engineers who do the testing on these motors know more than the average consumer. It's the same for any newer vehicle from 2008+. Even in heavy equipment they call for 500 hr intervals instead of the standard conventional 250 hr ones. If you wanna know how far your oil can go just do a simple oil analysis.
@@derekparisian2023 well the manufacturer has recommended the maintenance intervals based on them wanting it to meet their 100k mile warranty. That doesnt mean they are for longest life possible. It may be a "look at this low cost of maintenance" sales gimmick that gets it to 105k miles right on the north side of the warranty and they dont care afterwards.
One thing I've noticed owning a 5.0 Ford engine is how well balanced it is. Other motors I've owned will have a bit of a shutter sometimes at idle, but not this one. I literally can't tell it's running from inside the cab. I really appreciate this video and the commentary from the professional techs.
I've noticed they rock shudder and stutter once they hit 100k and I see many on them 5 days a week I personally drive a 5.3 silverado and cannot tell it's running at all in the cab except the pipes thumping away
Interesting comments about synthetic oil. I have an 08 f150 5.4 3v an 04 marquis 4.6 2v and an 03 marauder 4.6 4v. Love them all but like anything there are failure points and shortcomings that can be improved upon. I own a 13 Sierra 4x4 that has its issues as well. Love all 4 but the aluminum dohc in the marauder is my favourite. Bloody gorgeous engine. That did it for me.
gotta agree with those 4.6's lasting forever, my brother had one in an explorer he bought used with 300k and it ran even with his 30k mile oil changes when he remembered.... it was burning oil and always low, if i didn't add oil whenever he came by he would have ran it dry a long time ago... 380k when he sold it last year but I wouldn't buy anything he drove for more than one thousand miles
I have a 2014 5.0 in my f150. At 500 miles I did my first oil change and went 5w20 pennzoil synthetic. They are not cheap to do. However I do them regularly at 5 to 7 thousand kms. The engine is quiet and does not use any make up oil. The truck has 100 thousand kms. Mostly used on long highway run. I would say that this is a well built engine.
Exhaust manifolds rusting out and exhaust manifold bolts rusting out, these issues Ford have not managed to fix 20 years later. History repeats itself.
I've heard these engines have a problem with the oil pump gear cracking and breaking at high rpm. Also the LS is way more compact being a pushrod engine.
The synthetic bit is definitely bunk. This was clearly a lack of maintenance. Only time you'll potentially have issues is if the engine never comes up to temperature from constant short drives, which causes lots of fuel vapors and condensation to make its way into the oil, which will cause varnish deposits along with corrosion, and that will be an issue for either conventional or synthetic.
Hello, my f150 has a misfire in cylinder 4. Its going into the shop in a couple days but I am curious the issue is from my short drives to work which is literally five minutes through the neighborhood. We do go on long road trips but most days its five minutes to work and five to the store.
@@MR-nl8xr digging into engine, headgasket and valve job. Quoted 7 grand. We ended up trading in the truck. Put 8 grand down on a 2022 subaru forester wilderness
"Money aside, if you put the same components on this as your LS/LT, you'll be 10 times further ahead on this 5.0L" Can someone explain that one to me? (I am an LSx fanboy, but c'mon...)
@@ashes2ashes863 Well, LS1s came out 13 years before the first Coyote, and they made way more LSxs, so that is probably why there aren't as many 5.0L builds, but I'm trying to figure out how a 5.0L is going to outperform a 6.2 or 7.0L with the same caliber of parts just because it has more cams
@@FlatBlack_240SX at the end of the day I think it's really more about reliability. You can make an LS engine or a decent pushrod engine like the old school LT 350 produce a lot of horsepower for a little bit of money and it's still a compact package. The only way you seem to ever get real power out of these dual overhead cam larger V8 engines is if you build them specifically for performance and performance alone. The issue with that is nobody buying a Mustang is going to rebuild the engine every three weekends. They still have to drive this thing. So that might work for NHRA or an alcohol funny car or something, but it doesn't work in the real world. I understand why a lot of four cylinders are designed this way because it's more for fuel efficiency then performance. But once they start pushing the redline reliability becomes an issue with that many moving parts. I would be willing to bet if this coyote motor had been cared for appropriately it probably would have still ran a long time. The issue we have today is despite the fact that people spend all this ridiculous money on cars, they still don't get their oil changed but once a year which is insane. That's the reason I would always stick with the 6-2 over any coyote motor. I respect what Ford did with the coyote motor, but at the end of the day I don't see any advantage to it over the old school design of the overhead valve V-8 engine. Two other real irony. The V8 LS engine seems to get better gas mileage in reality than any coyote motor ever does, and they definitely get better gas mileage than the Twin Turbo V6 Ford makes even though the original Ecoboost V6 was built specifically to get good gas mileage while being a truck engine. So that was a fail for Ford. But the other thing that I'll leave you with, ford has actually going back to an overhead valve engine design for their work truck as has Dodge. Its not an accident. They made fun of GM for years for doing it and then the 6.0 became a legend workhorse. Now Ford and Dodge went back to copying GM again. And I'm sure both the Ford and Dodge overhead valve V-8 will probably be pretty reliable because they made plenty of good engines in the past. I just think it's funny that they bashed GM for so many years for still building overhead valve engines only to copy them again 20 years later.
Everything wrong with Coyote 5.0: "Duhh its real big, wise it done got them-thur thangs hangin offa the toppa the heads?" "Whurrs the pushrawds at yaawl?" "Syn theddick awl done ree-acted with the aluminum!"
"Is that a phaser like on star trek? That's the only way it be winnin races, out here stunnin other drivers an shit. Got damn son, it don't even lope like a racecar".
NO science or testing about the oil, that motor seems like the OIL wasn't changed to often. FURTHER, non-synth oil not used in most new engines at lighter weights.
So is synthetic bad? Or should I go with a high quality conventional? I'm getting a gen 2 5.0 with 54k miles on it and I'd like to maintain it the best as possible. Also, what are you considering a "high quality" conventional oil?
2018 and some 2019 5.0's are getting replaced, yes the newer Plasma Transfer Wire Arc cylinder liner ones. It's all over the Internet right now, lots of people getting replacement engines in their trucks under warranty.
You are not up to date. The latest pcm flash fixes the oil burning. Enginnering came back and said the engines that were replaced had nothing wrong with them.
@@BrianBourgeois- I assume you're referring to TSB 19-2365.. I'm not not up to date; some are reporting success with it some are not and are continuing to complain to Ford. I have a thread on this subject on ford-trucks.com forum with 51k views started in March 2019 by me.
You could do a video "Everything Wrong with a Ford 6.2" that would be 3 seconds long. It'd just be you saying, "even though it's a Ford, there's nothing wrong with the 6.2."
Damn good long living power plants , I'm so curious to see how the new 7.3 gas turns out, from what I seen on the engineering break down of it with the prototype it seems like a really reliable design,time will tell what they vuck up in manufacturing but yes it's hard to beat. 6.2 reliability I have seen ALOT with beyond 300000 miles like I have 4.62valve, if your 4.6 2v has spark plugs threads and you don't keep running the crap out of it with the timing chain slapping they last as long as an old 300, I can say that because I have an 03 with 400000,she's tired but still going could use a rering and valve job for sure , got multiple 300's with God only knows how many miles and I'm hoping to start a 6.2 swap in a 74f250 this fall if all goes well with the donor truck
@@bilbobaggins4710 And i bet your Civic can tow 20,000 pounds too... You can stick to honda im gonna stick with Ford. I have owned 3 Fords and haven't had any problems with them and my family has owned dozens collectively and also haven't had any problems with them.
I have a 2007 Ford f150 bought it brand new in 2007 I've always done my maintenance on time and I also use seafoam before every oil change and I have never had any issues with my engine I have 230,000 miles on it right and it still runs
Nothing wrong with the Coyote engine its perfect especially the 3 gen which recently went 7's in the 1/4 mile. Stock sealed from oil pan to intake with just a custom Twin turbo and few other bolt on's in the car it came in. For under 41k dollars, price of car included $38K 2018 base 5.0, No other car's out there can make this claim.
Yeah that was some super weak reasoning against a cam in block motor. I'm no Chevy guy (though I own one, LOL) but everyone was sniffing at GM's cam in block stuff 20-25 years ago, trashing it as 'outdated' etc and lo and behold it's still around and going strong.
I’ve owned 4 fords and every one blew the engine. 3 chevys they leak but always run, a diesel dodge which has always run. I told my wife no fords for my daughter, I didn’t realize Mazda had a ford engine. Guess what, we just got finished changing the engine. That engine also has the complicated timing because there is no key way on the crank for the timing chain gear, the balancer pinches it to hold it in place.
This really is an interesting and informative video! I and my two sons own F150s, one with a 5.4 and the other two with 5.0s. Mine has 273,000 miles and runs like a top and has had no issues. I learned a long time ago that you can’t overdue on oil changes. I currently have two Jeep Grand Cherokees, one with a 4.0 with 342,000 miles, and the other with a 4.7 with 360,000 miles. I have always changed all the fluids more often than recommended by the manufacturers and that has really paid off for us all. I would love to see more of these videos! Thanks!
Okay, so this builder lost me when he said it doesn't change displacement. It does. Displacement is swept volume, which is stroke * piston area * no cyls CR is not in that equation. If you increase your piston diameter, you will increase displacement. And since you are boring our the whole cylinder, minus a very small change in the math with the head dome volume, the CR should not change either. The dome changes that slightly, so to maintain the exact CR that is where your piston top height has to drop so that you maintain an equal CR. Displacement still increases though...
I'm thinking he meant that the FACTORY replacement oversize pistons lower the piston tops just enough so that the computer can't tell that the cylinder is slightly different than the rest. They can overbore ONE hole .020 put in a new piston and the computer can't tell so it runs well. Kind of a moot point, but it works for warranty stuff, keeps it cheap.
My 2013 f150 with the gen 1 5.0 has been a phenomenal truck. Great power, I had a water hose crack, I went ahead and changed it and fixed the fault with the water cooler piping.dont know why so many say these trucks are underpowered or turds. I can't wait to tune mine, just don't know which tune I wanna get for it or who from. 5 star tuning didn't impress me much with my 2001 4.6.
Keep in mind, there's not much room for tuning with a stock 4.6 2 valve engine. Unless you changed the cams, heads or a stroker kit. Ford nailed it with the 2 valve 4.6 2011 e250 4.6v8 loaded at all times 8500lbs with 430000km i got 15000km between oil changes lol
I have seen many problems with synthetic oil in my 35 years of being a master tech and running a shop. Personally will not use synthetic, or pennzoil!!
Fortunately but unfortunately I own a 2019, first I’ve owned that takes synthetic. I started to wonder as I’ve never ran it before because Roy doesn’t make sense to me.. most things synthetic really aren’t as good as what they could be, they are compensating for something for a purpose with synthetic materials. Oil, is like blood, why would you make something strictly take synthetic..? Is there a way to be able to run conventional?
@@person-sx2wc the synthetic molecules are 3-5X smaller that conventional oil, that's why if you run it in an older engine they leak.. The engine was not built to the tolerances of today. Nor the gaskets. And synthetic handles heat a little better, don't buy pennzoil, change it every 3 months or 3k, especially if it issues allot. And never buy a used government vehicle!!
@@person-sx2wc Unless your engine calls for 0-20 you dont have to run synthetic. 5-20 and up is offered in conventional. GM has their bullshit Dexos that requires you to use at least a Dexos blend or you can void your warranty on the engine. Ford doesn't require you to use full or blend but if the weight called for is only offered in either, your hands are tied. Tolerances are tight on new engines.
The only reason all manufacturers are going to synthetic is because it's a way better oil than conventional say you can go longer between oil changes and that is why epa wants it to lessen oil changes therefore less waste but no real engineer agrees withe going that long between oil changes just pressure from epa
This video could have been real short. The only thing wrong with a Coyote is the oil pump gear if you are planning on making a lot of power. These are one of the most solid, well-built engines on the planet.
Konner Kramer considering I have a Ford 5.0 with well over 500k miles on it, I’ve only ever changed the oils, oil filter, belts, and pullies, I’d say my 5.0 disagrees with that statement lol
@@AngryTexian like I said the plastic timing chain tensioner that are a well know problem are lucky to make it to 100,000k miles. Until I see proof I'm just going to assume your another clueless ford fan boy. The tensioner in my 2012 5.0 made it 65k miles before it broke and cost me $1500 to fix.
@@konnerkramer329 yeah sure everybody owns everything on the internet. Until I see proof of what you claim I'm just going to have to assume you are some anti-ford wanker
Excellent video. A lot of really good observations, but also a lot of very confident conclusions and full explanations on the causes of things. I don't think you can draw those conclusions. For example, all engines running on synthetic burn oil. Engines stripped down for efficiency with loose fitting components like rings burn oil. You are not evaluating a system in isolation. There are driving habits, climate, engine design and construction, etc etc...far too many variables than to have these simplistic conclusions.
@@sparty94 I agree, but there are some implications. At the end of the day, they have seen many problems, and identified conditions or symptoms these have in common. They have also identified fixes that work. Is there a problem with that? Yes and no. Ultimately it doesn't matter why. If something works don't change it. It's engineering not science. However correlation isn't causation. Certain additive packs vs"synthetic" under different conditions could make all the difference. Moderately used synthetic vs conventional oils at cold temperatures are miles different. I'd rather have some crystal buildup than molasses in my sump. I know they're smart guys, but they are too free with their conclusions. They're excellent up to that 95%.
I think its funny how the mechanic is calling the LS/LT old Tech (it is) like it's a bad thing. If your DOHC VVT engine costs more than twice as much to make the same HP then is it Progress???? If it's not lasting far longer, is it Progress????
You're not wrong. I'm a big fan of the saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it".. But the fact is these engines (Coyote, EcoBoost, whatever) are constantly improving as technology becomes available and emissions standards become stricter, and I predict in the near future LS motors won't be able to compete in the new vehicle market unless they start making big changes...
@@NovaNinja_ Well, Ford seems to have my opinion also since we now have the new 7.3 Godzilla engine. I have a 1961 Ford F100 waiting for one to show up at the wrecking yard.
@@NovaNinja_ I think by biggest complaint about all the modern engines is why are you using aluminum in the engine block in the first place if its a truck engine?? You only saved about 100 pounds, the vehicle weighs over 5000, it costs much more to make the aluminum block and its "Potentially" less durable. To me it's just stupid.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Always good to hear stuff we missed. If you have experience with these engines, leave a comment!
Deboss hats are here teespring.com/deboss-hat
**Edit* : We're seeing a lot of the same comments about synthetic oil... It's fine to disagree with Scott, just want to make it clear that Scott isn't diagnosing this engine failure as a synthetic oil issue, and neither of us is recommending you run conventional oil in these engines or any engine made to run synthetic. Always run what the manufacturer recommends in your vehicle. Scott also never said synthetic is "inferior" to conventional oil, just that longer drives are much better for these engines in the long run. He also never said synthetic oil is what caused this engine to blow... He said it leaves a tarnish and he has seen crystallization more common in engines running synthetic than not. Not all synthetics are equal, not all bearings are equal...your experience will vary. Go ahead and debate these points, but we didn't speculate on what caused this engine to fail until 22:09 and ultimately we don't know the history or what actually happened. Change your oil and do regular maintenance guys. Again, we make these review videos to discuss engines and their problems as a resource for used vehicle buyers and hotrodders looking to rebuild these. If we didn't like the 5.0 we wouldn't put one in a Bronco...
Another awesome video. Have you considered doing an Everything Wrong with The Oldsmobile Diesel Video? Some part of me wants an Oldmobile Cutlass Supreme manual Diesel (factory option, not a swap) even though the Oldsmobile Diesel has a horrible reputation. Those Oldsmobile Diesels seem rare as hell nowadays.
Exhaust manifolds rusting out and exhaust manifold bolts rusting out, these issues Ford have not managed to fix 20 years later. History repeats itself.
@@MrLM002 they are rare because they all had issues and destroyed themselves.
I did alot of the development on this engine at Ford dyno lab in Dearborn MI. Personally the Gen1 and Gen2 are the best. I know alot of people with f150 5.0 that have well into the 200k miles,and have only changed oil,and plugs. No even coils have been changed. In my opinion its the best engine ford offers for the f150,and most under marketed engine. Alot of the durability issues had to do with a bad ground crank. Which was fixed in the XM development stages. If only they offered the 7.3 push rod in the f150 lol
@@KS-xo3oh, did you research before bought it.
My takeaway from this video: change your damn oil.
Yeah I don't buy all that stuff about synthetic causing deposits and mixing brands being a problem. It looks like it just didn't get changed often enough.
Exactly. People never do maintenance and then claim the engine is garbage. Like the 4.7 Jeep, dodge, engines.
my takeaway was dont buy a ford unless youre gonna engine swap it
Andrew Browner lol
Mike Hunt IKR? How can someone drop +$50K on a new truck, then “save money” by not changing the oil? Are they an accountant?
From my time working at Ford in NZ I have to say the 5.0 is probably one of the most reliable and problem free engine we get
I work at the KCAP and I also come to that conclusion.
Thank you for this comment. My 3.5 is giving me out and was looking at the 5.0. What are some of the issues you’ve faced with the 5.0?
@@fccoz8348 The only 5.0 issues that you may run into are failed cam phasers and solenoids, and oil consumption. That's literally it. The new generation ones also make a bunch of bullshit noises, but nothing that's been shown to be negative.
Like I wrote elsewhere. The basic engine design was the Ford modular engine family. They were used in police and taxi service and they would last a million miles when serviced well.
@@chrisdaigle5410 would you yourself purchase the new 5.0 coyote
"Oil is cheap. Just do more oil changes" BINGO!
change oil every 3k miles in my 5.0 f150, i learned a lesson with ecoboost f150... oil is cheap, turbos are not
@@differentbydesign7603 , I learned my lesson, ford is ford, never again I will buy another Ford.
@@differentbydesign7603 that is just to often. Do it every 10kkm.
Different By Design what was your ecoboost lesson?
@Chuck Gladfelter, big mistake is being made by using motorcraft Oil, severe engine wear is unavoidable
5.0 are bullet proof as long as you change the oil frequently. I've seen some with 300k and no issues.
Great to hear. I have 41,000 on mine and change oil every 5,000 (miles) and ALWAYS use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Also changed my rear diff, transfer case, and tranny fluids already.
I baby my trucks.
@@rds990 you’ll get great life out of yours
u mean after you change the oil gear?
Liar liar
Compare it to the 4.8 5.3 6.0 of 6.2 of any year from gm and its a pile of shit lol
I hate to be that guy but as a Ford Tech of 20 years there was a lot of misinformation shared in this video. Put synthetic in your Ford. Dont use FRAM and you'll be good.
Care to elaborate? When I went back and listened to what he actually said, he made a different point than I was questioning.
Why should we listen to you? Ford are the ones that made these shitty engines in the first place.😂 This guy actually has to work on Ford's mistake unlike Ford tech that are just gonna keep putting the same shitty stock parts on even when they know the engine has a problem. Cough cough powerstoke 6.0
@@rickshiandmoku4128 while I dont disagree with you that Fords are crap. I drive a Toyotas and an Infiniti. Imports only for me. I enjoy being a Ford tech because I know I will make a great living for my family fixing these vehicles that will constantly need work 😄
Horseshit. "A lot of misinformation".
He didn't say "don't run synthetic", he said "here's how we see synthetic burning down in a Ford motor".
If you're a Ford technician, well we're almost guaranteed this guy rebuild more motors than you.
@@RealityGutPunch He's not Ford tech....... Toyotas and all other Brands have problems too. I am a tech all brands break and have issues. Problems also stem from owners who never take care of vehicle just drive it and then complain. How many do you see with warning light, check engine light, ABS light on but keep going because car still moves and drives. Whats thats noise/rattle and then crash because ball joint or tie rod end fall off. THEN have nerve go online this car a piece of crap and it going to cost me 1500 they're ripping me off for 100 dollar part. They don't you what else it destroyed from that 100 dollar part. I've seen things that would scare you and how could they keep driving it that way
Rich I’m sure a lot of us would love to see a 3.5 ecoboost torn down. Lots of questions surrounding longevity of small displacement engines pushing big numbers for long periods of time. Love the channel and content keep up the good work!
I second the motion !
Thirded!
Fordtechmakeyouloco has a whole series on the eco boost. I did a timing chain based on his videos on a 3.5 ecoboost in a 2013 f150. Lots of stuff to take off to get to the chains.
They don't do it for long periods haha
In short, engine is great. It’s all the oil fittings and miscellaneous things attached to them that gives you problems.
for years n years mechanics have been sayin "oil is cheaper than motors"
Sorry, I don’t agree. The 5.0 might be the best engine ford has made as of late. The owner of this engine definitely abused it.
Facts. It's a great engine. Just don't neglect it and it'll do fine.
until 2018 when they cheapened it with spray on cylinder liners rather than sleeving them. Nothing but problems since in my F150.
I think gen 2 were the best 5.0
Most reliable gas engine Ford ever made was in the 1993 Mustang Cobras. None of these bullshit problems.
@@Mr.Beastforpresident same shortblock as the 91-95 mustang and 96-2001 explorers so it was nothing special except programming and some expensive badges
Good video. Biggest take-away: more oil changes are better than less, regardless of oil type.
15:45 Wait a minute...
Did this guy just say that over-boring an engine doesn't increase the capacity because the over-sized pistons are designed differently, to maintain the standard compression ratio?
Changing the pistons makes no difference to the swept volume, only bore and stroke can do that!
Domed vs flat pistons.
@@NCAFBA That may change your compression ratio, but it makes absolutely no difference to the swept volume.
I think he was trying to make a point about the engine's computer not magically giving out more power.
Yup, I hope this guys never on the channel again. Seems like an idiot.
@@wim0104 (1/3) As I understand it, the point was that increasing the bore of an engine would also increase the compression ratio (as the engine is now squeezing more fuel/air mix into the same combustion chamber).
Increased compression ratios will increase the risk of pre-ignition (pinking, pinging or knock), where the fuel/air mix ignites prematurely, due to the heat of compression, rather than being ignited by the spark from the spark plug.
Oil has a finite capacity carying for holding dissolved pollutants...exceed that capacity and sludge will stick everywhere. It doesn't matter if it's synthetic of mineral.
This dude is making too many assumptions about the engine's past life.
This was the best teardown I've ever seen! The candid conversation between you guys is much appreciated!
That poor engine has had a hard life, you can tell. I've had many modular engines with well over 200,000 miles with no failures. Changing the oil is key with these engines.
Agreed ive seen some crazy high mileage mod motors still running strong. Ive had more than i can count on my hands and never had an issue besides my 04 mach 1 pushing coolant
That’s true for most engines. The engines that die in 100,000 miles are usually the ones where the last person to change the oil was the guy that assembled the engine together.
Exactly.
@@hilljackzack7284 I worked at a Chrysler dealership as a technician. We had a customer bring there vehicle in for the free oil change they receive for buying it. It had about 17k on it. Now the customer said he'd had it changed a few times before, what he didn't know is that we could distinguish oil filters from factory. Then people wonder why "cars aren't made like they use to be!"
4GsRacing no it’s just that people don’t do maintenance on them anymore. My Dodge Ram runs fine and I do all the maintenance myself because I don’t trust anyone else to work on my rig.
Seen a few 5.0 work trucks with over 350k still going good when we got rid of them
Yes indeed.
I bet that engine is respected tho and not getting beat on tho
@Kevin Roberts sounds like a lot of miles.... For a Ford. Tundra engines with that many miles are about 50% life
@@stevieray1828 That's because the Tundra's using a decade and a half old engine of which the bugs were worked out of it well over 10 years ago that drinks gas like its going out of style while miraculously making less power than pretty much all of its competition hold for the 5.3L Chevy's. I get the people like to suck Toyota off for reliability but the way Toyota maintains the reliability is simply by making no changes to their product for long periods of time they lack innovation a 2021 Toyota Tundra is mechanically nearly identical to a 2007 Toyota Tundra.
@@nathanmcdonald610 true that the engine and transmission have been used for a long time. There have been minor changes, but the truck has remained durable. Also true the mpgs stink, yet Tundra has lowest cost of ownership. Don't get upset that one brand is more reliable than another. Innovations are great when they make the vehicle safer and more reliable, but cheaper made and competitively marketed just to get the sales isn't a better route to go. Toyota has the safety sense on all models, even the 14 year old tundra. Not a bad innovation
That engine probably had its oil changed a hand full of times in its life.
How many times does it take to fill a hand?
@@svtirefire 4 times
I thought the engine oil is lifetime. At least only with Ford
I'd say it got oil changes, but it was in a truck used as a grocery getter, sat around in traffic, and driven less than 30 miles a day for an extended period of time.
I change mine when I get around to it
I worked in a oil change shop for years. Conventional oils leave that sludge build up. I have put 230,000 miles on my old 4.6 only used Mobile 1 full syn. Looked brand new on the inside.
he clarified it in a later video, but what he meant apparently is that the synthetic does this because some people follow the 10k-15k oil change intervals. He didn't state it very well.
Was thinking the same. Or engines which use synthetic all have a golden shine and not the least amount of any non liquid trace. Amazing really and I haven't opened engines with less than 230.00km on them.
To be fair, I rarely open engines because there is just never a reason to. Only things breaking are accessory and tidbits. Even at 400.000km, the block with bearings and surfaces looks like new. Provided you do not change your oil later than 10-12.000km.
they only make small engines with high output, short life, counter productive, cos the greenies & epa say so.. this,is why engines dont last & break. european specs are euro 6 emmisions. nothing comes out the exhaust.. its all bullsht.
@@Terminxman Your right. I argue this at work all the time. The ones I argue with have contradictory logic. Most of them do extended oil changes but trade their vehicles every 2 yrs. I have an 05 FX4 (yeah the dreaded 5.4 triton) with 183k on it. Changed oil every 3k since new. Did have the phasers, followers, and vct solenoids upgraded at 124k when the plugs were changed. I admit I waited too long on the plugs, now change them at 50K. None broke off luckily. I attribute this (just my opinion) to 3k mile oil changes. I've never owned a vehicle that had less than 200k. I had a 72 impala that had over 300k. The guy I sold it to drove it for 3 yrs after to my knowledge. I follow the same early schedule for the transmission, diff, and transfer case. Bottom line is, I enjoy driving. I can't do that unless my vehicle is well maintained. It's a good thing because the 5.4 will not last unless it's well maintained. All motors are the same in this respect, but the triton is an engineering nightmare. I hate working on it. It is good for light off roading because mine's not lifted and it pulls a 20 ft center console like it ain't nothing. Get's at best 15 mpg. I've owned chevy's, dodges, mazda's and fords. All lasted 200k or more. People......Change your fluids. Believe me it's the easiest maintenance you can do.
@@Terminxman then what's the point of going synthetic if you're not going to be able to extend your oil changes? What possible difference is there in just using either the same or a lesser viscous oil if the OEM calls for synthetic and it's only advantage is it gets into the engine crevices easier?
I just got to say... Taking the time to make the video I'm sure everybody appreciates very much. I just have to add; the video hits differently knowing you own a 5.0 f150 and want to see deeper into the engine and your taking it apart right before our eyes! Great video!
The discolouration between different banks on a V configuration engine is due to the PCV gases traveling from one bank, with fresh air from the intake tube, through the block to the other bank and sucked out through the PCV valve into the intake manifold. I've seen this especially doing timing chain jobs on GM 3.6l high feature V6. It bakes the "hot bank" with the heat from the "cool bank".
I dont know if he was talking specifically about coyotes but he said the rod bearing staying on the crank is bad. I just pulled apart a junkyard 4.8 ls. Some of the rod bearings stuck because of the oil. The machining lines are still on the bearings and the journals and rods have literally perfect clearance, I miced every one and they were all exact. So in my experience that is not the case.
As an ex Mobil Oil employee, I can state with authority that Mobil's testing shows nothing like what you see in this engine. M1 synthetic oil, changed regularly, will result in clean engine internals. Period, end of story.
Yeah sure
Is that an IDI engine or a direct injection engine?
lol facts based worst oil in category fails every evap test first and foremost along with the zinc levels being sad like every aspect of the oil is terrible .
The mobile one high mileage has tons of zinc.
I have 300K on M1 and it idles all day every day since 2013 on the job site, still going strong.
Im an apprentice working on ship engines and I absolutely love the channel. The videos at the machine shop are SO interesting, especially because it's exactly the same stuff Im learning on a small scale, keep the vids coming!
I've used Mobile One full synth. in my '89 Dodge 2.5l turbo since I bought it new. I change at 8500 miles. Those little Chryslers were noted for eating head gaskets. Iv'e changed 5 of them in its 31 year life span ( 300,000 + miles ) It gives me a chance to check out the head/valves/cylinder bores. Even though its turbocharged, the engine is always clean inside. No smudge, sludge, or coking. Turbo has never had an issue.The cross hatch hone pattern is still visible on the cylinder walls. Your buddies assessment of full synthetic motor oil is WAY OFF BASE. Please let him know he is spreading false info on your channel. I'm not affiliated with any oil company. I base my statements on decades of experience working on my own vehicles. Your friend bases his on assumptions. Love your channel!
I agree with you
What car is it in? I had a bunch of those 80's Chrysler turbos back in the day ~20 yrs ago and was on all the mailing lists and later forums. I had never even heard of an EFI motor sludging until I sold them all and moved into newer stuff! In many ways they are trouble free compared to a lot of this newer stuff, and super simple to work on and fix. I had pretty good luck with haed gaskets but they all leaked like sieves - the 'ongoing oil change'. :)
@@runner3033 The old boy with 300K + miles is an '89 Dodge Spirit ES turbo 4-door sedan, 5 speed manual. I have also parted out a '91 Dodge Shelby Daytona turbo 5 speed and used the front chassis and power train to build a single front wheel trike. ( Mid engine ) Its running 17 pounds boost...scary fast. Those little motors are simple, easy to work on and for the most part, very reliable with only routine maint. Head gaskets are the only thing to ever fail. I use Mobile One exclusively in both engines. Never any sludge.
Mobile One? Peasant oil... Villagers need to tend too their crops!
i’ve worked for ford as a mechanic since this motor came out and i’ve had the least amount of issues with the first gen (11-14) 5.0 out of them all. and i’ve never seen the rod bearings go so i’m surprised to hear that that is a major problem with them
I'm planning on buying 2014 f150 with the 5.0 v8 has a Ford mechanic do you think it's reliable and last a another 10 years
@@samabdelhadi3037 easily
I'm looking to get one with around 100k+ miles. I currently have one in my mustang ( absolutely love the motor) but the mt-82 is trash so I'm trying to get rid of it and lower my payment. How many miles can you get realistically get out of the 5.0 (with proper maintenance of course)
@@brendank4927 with proper maintenance i’ve seen them with will over 200k on them
@@brendank4927 Like Thomas said, 200k easy. With proper maintenance I've seen 3 to 400k. Just treat it well and don't forget to get some time and distance on it at least once or twice a month to help burn off gunk. (IMO)
Just FYI, Ford's first aluminum 32 valve DOHC V8 was the 1940 through 1950 GAA engine, 1,100 cubic inches. Initially designed as a 60 degree V-12 for aircraft, it was cut down to a V8 for use in the Sherman tank. So Ford had some experience when they developed the mod motor. There are still a few GAAs around, I've seen some RUclips videos of them running on stands.
Those things are crazy, I'd love to see someone swap one into a Focus or something for shits and giggles
As someone who's spent almost 2 decades in the auto repair industry I can't agree more about changing synthetic oil much more frequently than the manufacturer suggests. This whole trend of "lowest maintenance in its class" just means 4cyl engines now take 8 quarts of full syn when typically they always took 4 of conventional. People don't drive far enough to properly heat cycle the motor and burn off moisture and its causing as many issues as E85 is to fuel systems.
Well you just answered my question I just asked. I'll be switching back to regular oil because I drive short commutes 3-4 times a day ranging from 2-5 miles with an hour in between.
@@davidkmillerphotography Just my opinion, but the synthetic will still work better for your application. They flow better and lubricate better at room temperature and so they are easier on the motor than a conventional when not up to operating temp. Your mpg should have a slight improvement too. That thing about sludge he said in the video, this is the first time I've heard anyone say that about synthetics, and I've done way too much reading about oils lol. Mike's main point is that you need to change your oil at a lower mileage number because regardless of the oil used, short drives are hard on them. That said, unless you're turbocharged or running a high performance application, conventional will probably work fine.
@@randr10 exactly. If the vehicle calls for synthetic then run it. There are API ratings that oil has to meet and synthetic (like all oils) have what's called an "add pack" or added chemicals such as friction modifiers and detergents which help to achieve something the manufacturer is depending on being there. Synthetic oil is great at cleaning out motors of sludge so switching to full synthetic on a high mileage engine can and does uncover issues hidden by coking or "sludge" Also synthetic oil does not have the same issue with "going bad " so that's why you don't hear the X number of months or X miles with synthetic oil. The problem I see is that people think synthetic is some magic bullet when in reality it's a great product IF used as intended.
That means you it works for your driving habits and your oil is getting to warm up burn moisture out etc. I assure you I change tons of engines under 100,000 miles and thr only common factor is they did once year or 12000 miles changes. I see so many engines ruined by extended changes its hilarious
You said the most important thing in this video and it was... You learn something new everyday and you have a lot of knowledge. Rock on my friend.
Guy's misinformed on synthetic oil. That engine left the factory on synthetic, then went to the local Jiffy Lube and still did the extended drain interval. Then he gets the engine, assumes it's been on synthetic, and makes the false assumptions on synthetic oil.
Yes.
He says he doesn’t know anything about the engines he gets handed.
Then proceeds to guess their history.
And make blames on products because of these guesses.
That’s a lot of variables
He's either going by the lies he's been told by the owner, or the owner themselves was lied to and wasn't getting the premium synthetic they were paying for.
They don't leave the factory with synthetic. Synthetic is no good for break in.
Allan Vaneste you say that but that’s not true actually. I’ve learned this from breaking in motorcycle engines. It’s not a terrible idea to use a “break” in oil. But engines have to get use to running loads and ring seal. Oil it oil. It’s going to be there regardless between metal components. Tolerances are tighter at break in not looser. Rings have wear in angles also, just like “hard” break ins are a terrible idea
This engine was not the first engine this guy tore down. He is a professional engine re-builder and as he stated he builds them for Ford dealerships. That makes him far more qualified to make his statement than any of you to make yours unless you each have the track record to back it up.
"another comon problem is people not changing their engines enough... i change my engine every 3 or 4 miles"
"just take to O'Riley's, they'll do it for free in the parking lot anyway"
I had a buddy that brazed an 1 1/2" cummins oil plug into his 302 pan. He could change the oil in the time it took him to fill the gas tank, he would do it at the gas station while filling the tank. Lol got some looks for sure.
FORD FOR YA
The orange can of death!
Why not run motorcraft oil filter? Cheap and designed for the variable cam timing modulars
I would not want to change my engine every 3 to 4 miles
I've seen that color imbalance from head to head on older 4.6 engines too. (10+ engines) heard it has to do with the pcv pulling more from one side.
also true, ive seen same thing on a GM Alloytec V6..........
I heard that the color change is that the right bank (passenger) is the last to get oil that has to feed through all the holes and hydraulic parts. Only cure is a more powerful oil pump.
You make more sense than Sir Hate Synthetic Oil.
Leonard Daneman PCV make more sense.
@@blackericdenice The early 4.6 ltr Ford V8 had sludge and smoking issues because of the EGR placement.
But, in overhead cam phaser engines, the complex passages starves the right bank.
Them talking about old pushrod technology and overhead being the way of the future made me think of the saying "change for the sake of change isn't always progress".
One of the greatest lines ever!
Tell that to these LEFTIST Democrats
Also, with the word " Progressive "
There is upward progress, in a positive direction
And there is downhill progress, in a negative sense...
Overhead cams have more benefits than downsides over a pushrod other than complexity and cost. Less rotating mass, better oiling, variable valve timing (a benefit and widens the power band but is more complex and is a failure point). Some of the most reliable engines ever made (Toyotas) are overhead cam engines. THere’s a reason.
All things being equal a OHC engine isn’t really more “Complex” than a pushrod one. It’s such a strange misconception.
@@WhiteManXRP not sure why boneheads just have to bring politics into any conversation. What does tearing down ANY engine have anything to do with politics? Nothing! Leave your peanut gallery comments inside your pea sized brain. (Like that’s going to happen, lol)
@@Terminxmanlol sure bud pushrod engines have alot less parts in them and got more low in tq and last twice along 1 CAM 16 valves overhead cam V8 has 32 valves and 4 cams just asking for trouble all those parts in a Engine even Ford built a 7.3 pushrod engine few yrs ago for there super duty trucks because they new it's a better Design than a overhead cam Engine
There's nothing inherent about the OHV or OHC that makes one or the other make more low end torque you fudd. There are a lot of variables, intake design, valve size, exhaust size, port size, came profile, valve timing, etc. DUrr just look at GM and RAM with their endless ticking and oil burning with OHV engines while the 5.0 is bulletproof. Same with Toyota, everything Toyota has made for like 50 years has been OHC. @@donaldkinder6716
Looking forward to the “everything wrong with a 5.9 common rail” video
Absolutely nothing.
Cracked pistons and injectors I'd really the only problem you can have with them
Ben Giovenco agreed the only thing I can think of is the automatic transmission I have a 03 6 speed most reliable truck I’ve owned
Do the 5.9 common rails have that killer dowel pin?
Common rail is the problem
7:07 that guy is full of it. The sludge came from not changing the oil.
I've seen that only with one oil Pennzoil
And that issue not changing the oil
Psssstt!
What gives you the right to discredit. Short answer is read the side of a bottle of synthetic oil it suggests longer oil change intervals, so not changing oil came from the use of synthetic oil. Long answer is here second video made specially for the youtube experts. 🙄 ruclips.net/video/tDpTPxinNyo/видео.html
@@dalelc43 Common sense, you should try some. This "engine builder" is a moron and I feel sorry for ANY customer who's engine he put together. He's absolutely clueless.
Never in my life have I heard that synthetic oil is the cause of such problems.
It isn't.
It's not. Ford guys need to blame other parts for shit than their junk motors
Exactly my thoughts....
@@tundras4ever552 Its blowby and poor oil change schedule that does that. You recognize it instantly after being around Hondas or imports for awhile. My 2014 Ford would spray oil across the entire engine bay if you took the oil cap off. Brutal blow by. But my 2012 Tahoe (5.3 LS) doesn't spray anything.. theres nearly no air movement with it off
Was thinking the same thing.
Man I gotta say, this is Ona the best "inside secrets" videos on ford engines I've ever seen. As a mechanic, this Info is sooooo valuable to me. I don't really work on gas engines as much but I am a knowledge seeker and this is super fascinating stuff. This guy knows his shit!
The 6.2 in my work truck developed an intermittent bottom end knock under warranty. Dealer pulled the pan and found two main caps with loose bolts. They put a new engine in it.
Ford quality.
@@repairvehicle Ford quality depends...
If built on a Wednesday, they quite alright.
On a Monday or Friday, oh boy!
repairvehicle whatever, I have a Tahoe that is just about undriveable because it’s always a new problem. That is a true piece of shit. I work my ford truck everyday and it has been almost flawless aside from the stated problem. Every single GM product I have owned over the years has left me stranded in one way or the other, all of the fords got me back home.
@@Highstranger951 , just because you got home, it doesn't make Ford reliable brand, you still keep fixing Ford on regular basis because it breaks.
My friends work truck had a shattered piston on his 6.2
I had a LS1 in a 2004 GTO. It was a great engine. Never had one problem. Haven't seen one video tearing down a LS1 and examining common problems. Probably because there weren't any.
Ls engines had issues with collapse lifters
@@fordnut4914 well maybe the ls models that come in a base model truck with high usage. But with the high-performance LS1 I've never seen any documentation of that.
@ctu5086 secondary air injection valve coolant leaks throttle issue. And there is few other common issues with those gto engines.
I work at the dealer closest to his shop. And we never send engines to him.... customers get the choice of a new or used engine from millers/Glendale. We also never see that kind of build up unless the engine wasn't maintained. And there is no service interval for 5.0 timing chain's. And the 17+ truck engines tend to be less reliable.
Less reliable? It’s been 3 years.
@@vojnikjna30 The guy is still right though. It's a shame the 3rd Gen Coyote didn't maintain the cast iron sleeves and standard port injection at least for the F-150.
@@vojnikjna30 It's easy to put a lot of hard miles on a truck in 3 years.
I see way more 17+ 5.0s getting engines then 13-16s
Its this kind of talk that makes me want to keep ridin my 2V out of fear. GM and Chrysler seem to have their own set of engine failure issues with the V8s. They all perform so astoundingly well its a crying shame.
we love it when engines produce their own anti-seize
Thank you for your videos. My experience is as a cab driver using Lincoln Towncars 4.6L engines and they gave me about 400k miles in average, using regular oil and maybe refurbished oil as the company made the oil changes. Driving almost 24/7, idling a lot, AC on always (FL weather!!!), and keeping up with maintenance gave me very few break downs besides transmissions. I’ve been so happy that I’ve bought a 2010 signature limited for myself when I stopped the cab business. Mine had 106k miles when I purchased it and it sounds like new to me. Used synthetic at first change, drove 9k, changed a couple weeks ago with mobil1 synthetic 5w30 and just now watching your videos come to me that we didn’t use synthetic back then. I’ll use this for 3-5k then switch to regular oil.
Two questions though:
1- is the Lincoln engine different from the straight Ford 4.6? Better?
2- what’s a good regular oil to use? And filter?
Thank you so much for your efforts to educate mechanics and buyers about your experience with these engines without bashing us down!
1 same engine for the 4.6
2 factory ford filter always and any name brand oil changed and topped off regularly
I found out what causes the type writer tic. It’s shim used to set the end play of the crank thrust bearing.
Cool video, but skeptical of all the negative claims about synthetic. I have never heard any of the claims stated from other sources. I believe as a Ford lover he is inclined to blame other things for failures of the engine.
He didnt say synth was bad he specifically said it isn't good in engines that dont come up and run @ temp for a while.
Ya he was talking about the 0w20 or whatever oil ford recommends.
@@daveyb2552 This applies to all types of engine oil, so I'm not really sure what his point is.
@@daveyb2552 one major perk of synthetics is how the oil doesn't sludge up due to moisture not boiling / evaporating off during a short drive. His statements on synthetics contradict all of the professional data I've read, and anecdotal data I've gathered from personal engines. The only statement which has any validity is to not mix certain synthetics. Different brands use different base stocks, which may or may not play well together. I recall recommendation to not mix Amsoil with Mobile1, but it was fine to mix Amsoil with Redline. (my apologies if I have that backwards) The key here is to run one brand of synthetic, use a good filter (Wix is my preference), and change your oil based on oil analysis or your MFGs recommended change interval.
Wow, you can't hear. He said synthetic is not made for short drives.
Different colors on each side is due to the pcv system. Fresh air in leads to the cleaner side and the crappier side is where it gets drawn out. At least from what I have seen in years of experience. Super useful and very informative video. Really starting to like this channel more. The LS and LT are short height. Not massively wide or too dam tall. Not overcomplicated either.
Bingo! The fresh air side will be cleaner, the vacuum side of the PCV will be dirtier! It's a no-brainer, if you know engines and how the PVC system works. The best PCV system pulls the crankcase/block fumes from a central point with fresh air entering both valve covers.
@@mikeymike758 that’s interesting,so where does the fresh air come from on a 5.3,thanks.
@@dennisgood2108 no
@@mikeymike758 Know of a good video giving the correct explanation and " how the PCV system works "?
i commented this also dude is one of those just say things for fun guys the 3.6 Chevy does it worst 100% breathing issues if anything non syn would make it worst .
Now I want to see a review on a Hemi engine since Deboss already talked about the LS and now a Coyote
The 5.7 hemi is pretty phenomenal the valve seats wear out from constant dogging but once replaced with the upgraded seats those things are unstoppable and destroy both 6.0 and 5.0 with power I dont know a lot about the 6.2 hemi
I have a 2011 150 XLT w the first gen 5.0. Up to date on oil changes and regular maintenance and just surpassed 158 thousand with no issues at all. Such an amazing engine, ford really stepped up from the old tritons
Oversize pistons absolutely increase displacement, regardless of compression
I wouldn't trust anyone to rebuild my engine that doesn't understand basic math, SMH
What an idiot this guy is , along with his nonsense about synthetics 🤣
Yeah. He doesn't understand displacement. He also doesn't understand synthetic oil.
Bearings staying with the crank happens all the time because of surface tension in the oil. It does not mean anything at all. It is better not to speak if you don't know what you're speaking about.
Displacement is dictated by swept volume within the cylinder (i.e. bore diameter and crank throw).
Piston height only changes compression ratio.
What is the guy on about?
@@Jack-tx2ve He said: "When we replace them with 'factory' pistons, they bring the compression down". There are no 'oversized' pistons here. When you bore out a cylinder and put the same pistons you counteract the increased bore with less compression. The guy then says 'why' people do this, which is for sound. They have to bore out the cylinders to refresh them and hes arguing against a misunderstood norm. I had absolutely no problem understanding what the guy said and infact took away knowledge which takes years of experience that books don't talk about, whether or not in it's complete form.
@@hackersulamaster why would you bore an engine oversize and run a standard piston? That would throw your piston to bore clearance out the window, they'd be slapping around in the bores like nobody's business...
Well, at least he's right about the 4.6 two valve. It's a definitely a tough engine.
Yeah, I thought the 300 six was the best engine Ford ever made but now I have had three 4.6's 2005 being the newest and I gotta' say they are one damn good engine!
Hello rich, when you get a hold of one will you do a talk about the 6.8 Triton v10
Easy get a 2 valve and plan for coil swaps other then that good engines hard on fuel.
I drive a 2V-V10 daily and only issues are it’s a gas hog. The coil packs aren’t the issue, it’s a dirty MAF sensor, keep it clean and it will run forever! Those engines have a 100,000 mile plug maintenance so your good, now being I said that, buy the nickel plugs, use antiseeze and torque to between 11-16 ftlbs, your good. I torqued mine to 16. The V10 will use a quart of oil every 4000 miles and that’s even a healthy well cared for V10. Mine does, everybody I know that has or had one said same thing . Don’t forget, Ford built a standard Headed V-10 and a PI headed 10, the PI is the one you want and most likely find, the Non PI is rare, I have the Non PI engine(99). Also, the truck and van engine differ but can be converted if you have the van to truck and or truck to van parts donor. I pulled a V10 from a Ford F53 chassis, is based on a van, I simply swapped my truck pan, oil cooler, mounts, etc to the new engine and it drops in a F-250 no issues.hope this is helpful.
It's a ford engine so he will just complain.
@@DanielThomason1 ford revised spark plug torque specs to 20-23ft-lbs for all 2Vs otherwise they come loose at the lower torques.
@Alpha Wërks Your mom's junk.
I recently got a used M3 (yea I know) it uses one specific oil that must be changed every 2500 miles. Now I understand why that should be done. Thanks guys very interesting learning about synthetic oil.
This was great to see, as the first gen is what's in my truck I've had since new. She's made it 90k miles on 10k oil changes with Mobil 1 extended drain varieties. Even sent a sample to Blackstone labs 20k ago because the long intervals always bothered me, but their report said it was legit, and I could even probably go to 12k (I'm sticking to 10). I'm actually thinking about pulling valve covers at 100k to see if I have any build up, and making sure the screens on my vvt solenoids aren't getting plugged.
I'm bias towards GM but have had no major issues with any Ford's. I religiously run Mobil synthetic and have for many many years. I started when GM's performance cars recommended the oil right on the oil caps. I thought time and time again about trying other oils but at the end of the day I always go back to Mobil Synthetic. I think they've honestly been the same since day one and I've never had an engine that had an issue with it. I try to change it every 5k to 7.5k miles as well depending on what kind of vehicle it is. Everybody claims there are better synthetic oils out there and I'm sure for a lot of cases and specific situations there may be. It just seems like whenever synthetic oil is being blamed for a problem... which isn't that often... it's never Mobil that they've been running.
Good to hear that some people do proper maintenance. Money well spent to prevent an issue before it becomes an expensive one to fix. I had the dreaded 3v 5.4 in my F150. I stayed up on maintenance and never had an issue. Albeit I likely wouldn't but another F150 it was a great truck.
Hey Nathan, you haven't had any problems with that engine?
@@TheUltimateCrash1990 The engine itself has been flawless (as long as you don't count lack of torque as a flaw). I've replaced a couple of minor accessories (oil cooler assembly, radiator hose coupler o-rings, starter occasionally didn't want to engage) but all those are easy, fairly cheap, as as I see it, nothing is perfect, and considering the regular abuse the truck sees, it's held up great.
My Honda Accord v6 looked sparkly clean inside after 110k mikes when I did timing belt, always ran Mobil 1. I do plenty of short trips. Change oil at 7-10k miles...
Your Honda uses a Timing Belt not a Timing Chain. To replace or service the timing chains/ components, you need to remove the timing cover which also is sealed to prevent oil from leaking out.
Christopher Mohamed What is your point?
@@jamesmedina2062 you said your Honda looked clean inside at 110 miles. I'm assuming you are talking about the view you got of your timing belt components when you removed your timing cover to replace the timing belt. Your Honda is designed with a externally driven timing belt. The timing chain is internally driven which uses oil pressure and oil as lubrication for operation.
So what I'm getting at is you can't really see how clean your engine is because you're not actually looking inside of your engine. I hope I'm not confusing.
Christopher Mohamed Ok bro that was Jacob and he said 110,000 not 110. I asked what your point is because timing belt usually means the valve cover is off. The valve cover gasket needs replacement and it is usually one piece covering everything
@@jamesmedina2062 that's true.
To anyone who has one of these that has a sleeve issue and you're thinking about having it repaired get a quote from your machine shop and then look into a replacement block. The price on these has come down quite a bit. You can get a replacement 2ed gen block, for example, for around $800 + freight.
I have been an owner of a F-150 since 2019. I am trying to learn and understand much as I can about my truck, especially the engine. Great information.
16:16 how does compression height affect the swept volume of an engine its still a 355 just different compression.
My thoughts exactly. Compression ratio has NOTHING to do with displacement.
Thank you. I was actually going to bitch about that now. 11 months later. Lol
I guess Ford sells millions of this engines and has millions of happy customers, but somebody has to find fault.
The newer 5.0s have cylinder distortions, the short block needs to be replaced.
Had to do it on mine
@@elgayetas well lets hope they go back to sleeving them, rather than spraying on the cylinder liner, that's mostly what the issue was with the ones from 2018 and up.
@@elgayetas what happens with cylinder distortion? Mine 2019 uses oil and I’m trying to figure out why. Ford keeps doing oil consumption tests and TSB’s.
@@emerylandry2074 If you have a 5.0L that sufferers from the cylinder distortion issue it'll develop a pronounced knock that will be rhythmically faster if you are revving the engine up to accelerate or something. Keep in mind these 5.0L's are kind of noisy to began with because they are DOHC ''and direct injection if a 2018 or newer model''. If they sound find otherwise and there's no audible knock when driving from in the cab, you're fine. If its an obvious knock though, you may have a real problem.
Background:
Gear head that did auto repair for people who didn't get satisfactory results from dealers and I starting from age 14 where I had to have other people available for tests drives. I also designed and built electronic circuits for companies. Then college for Automotive Technology where I learned the engineering. I signed up for the Guard and wanted to be a mechanic there, and did a little too good, so they made me an aircraft mechanic and I was terrified of heights. I built drag engines where I did Chevys, Mopars, and Fords. Like this video says, it has ALWAYS cost way more to build a Henry than a Chevy. I personally did Fords because winning with one made a statement. I did engines, transmission, and rear axles at a Ford dealer because they were less frustrating to work on because they used dedicated castings instead of brackets supporting brackets supporting brackets, and the working environment was nicer. I left there to work on vehicles for the Guard full time to work on trucks, radios, equipment, and a CEV (tank with an oversize gun), but their real angle is they wanted someone they could lay their hands on for manage their remote aviation section. They made me the supervisor of the section. I got sick and threw up all the time, after which I bought a share in an airplane because I could get free flight time for maintaining it, and learned to fly. Later, my instructor called me and said he just got an aerobatic plane and I should...which I did. That grew into waivers for academy and "fright school" and flying for them for 5 years and getting out as captain.
My thoughts:
*** Disclaimer: I don't have broad experience with synthetics, only Mobile 1. I chose Mobile 1 due to the way it is manufactured gives them ultimate control, and the mix of additives for wear. Does more control mean better? I don't know.
1. From my experience with Mobile 1, oils keep things A LOT CLEANER. If you switch to it on an older engine with not such a great change history, your oil will get REAL dirty fast because it puts the crap back in suspension, which is your call as to whether this is good or bad, and it comes out with the oil. I'm aware of the Castrol court case they lost where they claimed they were 57% better at preventing sludge. While they lost, you may find significant that they based their claim on data from Mercedes-Benz testing. The ruling was against them because it only proved it on that engine and their proprietary testing. Castrol's reply was sludge is sludge. They lost another one on lubricity in that they showed some cruel load over an 8 hour period on some engine that theirs was the only one that held up. They lost because those conditions but I thought you might find it interesting. After Castrol's formula change to a mineral oil base, they got sued for calling it synthetic, but the challenger lost in court. If you check what it takes to be called synthetic, you will find it to be defined by court cases rather than science and logic.
2. IMO the problem with synthetics is they say, "Our oil is good for 6,000, 10,000, or 15,000 miles, so it's better and less expensive overall." Then people follow that marketing advice and you get what you see. How long anti-wear additives does matter, and even the longevity of the detergent properties to some degree, but the amount of byproducts of combustion and other factors doesn't change that much.
Other things mostly for entertainment value.
1. Kinematic viscosity on the can is in SAE Saybolt seconds. It is measured by how fast the oil flows through an orifice at a standardized temperature, 100F now 40C(104F) to make metric. From an engineering perspective, it is no longer used. When you look at multi-viscosity motor oil, the W is a predicate for the first number. To simplify, it is simply stating that when the oil is cold, its properties are like the first number, and when hot like the second number. Most engine wear occurs after startup of a cold engine and cranking is easier and thinner helps. When warmed up though, the more viscous oils shear properties are better at maintaining the oil film under pressure. You may have noticed the trend toward thinner oils in cars. This is because most use roller rockers and lifters which is why the higher viscosity oils were needed and no longer are. Thinner oil is better if you can run them without breaking down the oil film, and there is less parasitic loss. There is actually way more to it than this such as when you modify the viscosity gradient, you still need to maintain the sheer strength so it preserves the oil film. Again, there is more to this such as cranking, etc. However what might be useful to you is the critical number is the second number. If your car states to use 5W20, use 0W20. The 5W was driven by what was commonly available. Oil is always too thick when it is cold. Another thing is the zero does not mean it is 5 thinner than 5W. There are no negative numbers so all zero tells you is it is less than 1. Just don't mess with the top number because that is the required shear strength required. (For modified engines and racing you are on your own and stock oil and clearances aren't going to work.)
2. Less popular today, but still in some applications you will see the recommendation for non-detergent oils. Cars used to use non-detergent oils as do other machinery. There is a wives tale that goes that's because detergent oils foam in those applications. It's not that that has never happened, but it was considered a defect of the oil and thus any instances have long since been remedied. The reason for this is old cars, small engines, air compressors, etc. use splash lubrication. The oil pan was the settling point for debris and in effect the oil filter, thus you don't want to keep the crap in circulation. On old cars, the oil pan is easily dropped and it is part of the scheduled maintenance. With pressurized oil systems, keeping particles in suspension is exactly what you want to have happen so they can be removed from the system by the oil filter. Today, non-detergent oils are hard to find, and even splash oil systems often list multi-vis detergent oils as an alternate or primary and might be better than a straight-weight non-detergent if you change it frequently.
3. The anti-wear additive levels have generally been reduced in newer oils because they affected the life of the catalytic converter. This is something else I was watching when selecting an oil. There are ways to skirt that with additives or racing oils, but this is ever changing and I'm not interested enough to keep up on it.
4. The SAE rating for gear oil uses a different scale than engine oil. Example: 75W-90 gear oil is about the same viscosity as 10W-40 motor oil and it has totally different linearity.
5. Probably don't use aviation turbine oil in a car engine. You won't have ANY varnish like you saw on that engine. The oil will be very fluid across an incredible temperature range, which would be great for cold weather. Now for the downsides. Jet engines don't have pistons and rings sliding up and down on cylinder walls that might shear the oil film nor do they have sleeve bearings. You've never seen quality in bearings like you see on a jet engine. You could have an APU that runs at a steady 115,000 rpm. On small turbines the gas producer might run at 55,000. You also have gears of quality like you've never seen that bring those RPM down to sane values to feed a fan and accessory gear boxes and do it reliably over many thousands of hours with zero issues. Their main bearings do not have rubber seals, they use what is called labyrinth seals and pressure differentials. The compressor generates much more pressure than the output and that is used to keep oil where it belongs and to cool (relatively) components through small holes located strategically throughout the engine to keep components temperatures within range. When bearings get really hot is after shutdown when that process stops and heat moves to the bearings, called heat soaking. Any varnish causes them to what is termed as "coke the bearings", e.g. make hard carbon deposits that will freeze the bearings, which is why you won't see varnish at car engine temperatures with turbine oil. You also NEED to wear gloves. I've gotten it into a cut a few times and it kills the skin around it and turns it into a callous that you can pick out over time. Everything grows back fine, but if motor oil on your skin is a threat, turbine oil might be far worse based on its effects. So the game for turbine oil isn't wear from scuff resistance from sliding surfaces, it is maintaining a standard viscosity across a crazy temperature range, simple lubrication, cooling, and not oxidizing/coking the bearings, which is exactly what those fine anti-wear and sludge preventing additives would do to a turbine engine. They have a lot few products of combustion to deal with. AutoZone probably won't be interested in your drain oil. One could say that a car engine running it MIGHT not last as long using it even if it doesn't have an oil film issue. OTOH, the oil would be fluid when cold so that might make up for around town drivers. You can try it and let me know. You can buy it for ~$2400 for 50 gallons, which works out to $12/quart. It would have been fun to try on a water dyno when I had access to one in school.
He had the 4.6 and 5.4 all confused.
5.4 have a bigger stroke not bore. It’s essentially a stroked 4.6. They use the same piston. Also a town at does not have a 4v 4.6 and a cobra motor is a 4v. Not a 2v.
Right, a someone with mod motor knowledge should have known this.
That discoloration is NOT from synthetic Oil lol. I’ve never in my entire automotive career seen an engine run on synthetic oil do that. This guy is clueless.
@EyeGotThaPooOnMe I mean, it does seem like shop-lore rather than fact that synthetic oil would be to blame for discoloration.
is silence when it comes to the two sides being different colors is.. telling, but then he immediately goes again to blame synthetic for what he mentioned just a couple of cuts before could be attributed to it being driven short distances and not getting to temperature (plausible), and synth oil crystallizes (citation needed) and accumulates in places and gunks up more?
Ok, now that I watched the entire thing, WHAT'S HIS PROBLEM WITH SYNTHETIC OIL? He pulls "facts" out of his arse the entire video, doesn't even know more than Rich about the engine he's supposed to be the expert in (fixed like 3 of them... since they came out in 2011... which rounds to ... one every 3 years?!?!?) "Every engine on Synthetic oil burns oil" wut?!?!?!
Every other phrase out of his mouth needs a [citation needed], like he professes all these issues with synthetic oil that HAVEN'T BEEN FOUND IN ANY REPUTABLE RESEARCH OVER THE LAST 20+ YEARS because he clearly knows more then thousands of engineers employed by oil companies and car manufacturers that recommend synthetic oil because he rebuilt 3 DAMAGED engines and blamed it on synthetic oil for the damage, not rough usage, not bad maintenance, not lack of oil changes, but the fact that it was synthetic oil.
Yep same guy that couldn’t get a man lift with a GM 3.0liter to run so he put a carburetor on top of the TBI to keep it running.
Guy is a total hack job and hasn’t a clue what he’s doing either.
@@South_0f_Heaven_ are you talking about Scott? Interested in the TBI video if you have a link. His BS about displacement being affected by compression height put him on my "don't listen to" list.
@@Peterowsky Tend to agree, most of it looks like regular old varnish & sludging from lack of oil changes, excessive heat, or lack of oil - seen it a hundred times before and it's always on engines with no service history or known bad service history - never seen an engine that has had proper maintenance look like this no matter what oil has been used even with hundreds of thousands of km's, even with city driving. This engine has just been horribly abused by some clueless fucktard IMO.
yes I've never heard bad stuff about syntho, the part I think he's mixed up by is compression ratio vs displacement, boring .030" over will always increase the displacement regardless of compression ratio. If the new piston is lower, you'd lower the compression ratio but if the bore and piston is bigger, you'll have bigger displacement, 350 to 355 which also makes more power.
Synthetic oil has nothing to do with a dirty engine. It’s lack of oil changes. Synthetics keep engines cleaner period. Actually most conventional oil is a synthetic blend. It has to be to be able to meet the stringent new SN+, SP specs
STFU ruclips.net/video/tDpTPxinNyo/видео.html
I agree with most conventional oil is a syn blend. The only problem is drivers nowadays don't use the proper viscosity in their engines. And sludge deposits are likely to form in engines any how, regardless of conventional or synthetic.
did you not listen? syn requires getting the engine up to heat or it crystalizes, its not a short distance oil
@@narmale no it doesn’t
@Henry B i didnt say this... it was said in the video... or did you not pay attention?
This guy is a joking I hope lol this isn’t from synthetic oil it’s from not changing the oil and one side is dirty because one side is pvc side and the other is fresh air and they didn’t really have rod bearing failure problem they had some manufacturing problemS it wasn’t even a real issue it was like .04 percent of 1pecent
I'm glad I'm not the only one cringing at this guys "knowledge" 😁
@@praisejesus3 I've never understood the synthetic hate that is around and every time is wrong.
@@kimchipig The hate comes from car guys who watch idiots go 7-10K mikes on Synthetic because the oil cost more to buy and is so "much better than conventional".
@@cp6027 I do every 10k kms on my coyote. I did an oil analysis on my last change. They said there still another 10k I can get out of that oil. Will I go 20k for an oil change? No. I follow Ford drain intervals of 8-10k miles. Synthetic is only double the price of conventional. I can get 2 5 litres pennzoil ultra platinum jugs for 30/each on sale, plus pennzoil has a 10 dollar rebate for 5 litre jugs. So I'm paying 50 dollars for 10 litres. I find it funny how people obsess over oil intervals. Follow the manual and your good to go. Pretty sure the engineers who do the testing on these motors know more than the average consumer. It's the same for any newer vehicle from 2008+. Even in heavy equipment they call for 500 hr intervals instead of the standard conventional 250 hr ones. If you wanna know how far your oil can go just do a simple oil analysis.
@@derekparisian2023 well the manufacturer has recommended the maintenance intervals based on them wanting it to meet their 100k mile warranty. That doesnt mean they are for longest life possible. It may be a "look at this low cost of maintenance" sales gimmick that gets it to 105k miles right on the north side of the warranty and they dont care afterwards.
One thing I've noticed owning a 5.0 Ford engine is how well balanced it is. Other motors I've owned will have a bit of a shutter sometimes at idle, but not this one. I literally can't tell it's running from inside the cab. I really appreciate this video and the commentary from the professional techs.
Same, although mine isn’t a fault, i don’t notice it either
Same, although mine isn’t a fault, i don’t notice it either
Same, although mine isn’t a fault, i don’t notice it either
I've noticed they rock shudder and stutter once they hit 100k and I see many on them 5 days a week I personally drive a 5.3 silverado and cannot tell it's running at all in the cab except the pipes thumping away
thats because ford always has a wimpy cam from the factory
Interesting comments about synthetic oil. I have an 08 f150 5.4 3v an 04 marquis 4.6 2v and an 03 marauder 4.6 4v. Love them all but like anything there are failure points and shortcomings that can be improved upon. I own a 13 Sierra 4x4 that has its issues as well. Love all 4 but the aluminum dohc in the marauder is my favourite. Bloody gorgeous engine. That did it for me.
to bad its false its a pcv issues if anything syn oil is harder to burn .
You need to do more videos with him, for the "Beavus and Butthead effect"! I really like the good info on whats good, whats not!
gotta agree with those 4.6's lasting forever, my brother had one in an explorer he bought used with 300k and it ran even with his 30k mile oil changes when he remembered.... it was burning oil and always low, if i didn't add oil whenever he came by he would have ran it dry a long time ago... 380k when he sold it last year but I wouldn't buy anything he drove for more than one thousand miles
Gen 2. Immediately went outside and checked my oil.
Sick video
one head has more sludge because of the pcv
See that all the time on the GM 3.6 LFX. Clean air enters the left bank and dirty leaves the right and it always looks worse.
@@93sundance the first upgrade ford techs recommends is a oil catch can to prevent this exact problem
@@davidlindsey4237 not really a problem on a 3.6 as long as you change your oil regularly.
If you watch sloppy mech same with LS engines. One side dirtier than the other
Must've taken years to gather that much knowledge. Hats off to you guys. Great video
As unlikely as it is I would love to see a tear down of a Toyota 4.7 2UZ-FE or a Nissan 5.6 VK56.
Toyota UZ motors are impressive man. I've worked on quite a few, even swapped one into my Cressida.
I wanna see a VK video so bad
This
Are they push rod
@@user-tw8ov nah both are overhead cam
I have a 2014 5.0 in my f150. At 500 miles I did my first oil change and went 5w20 pennzoil synthetic. They are not cheap to do. However I do them regularly at 5 to 7 thousand kms. The engine is quiet and does not use any make up oil. The truck has 100 thousand kms. Mostly used on long highway run. I would say that this is a well built engine.
Exhaust manifolds rusting out and exhaust manifold bolts rusting out, these issues Ford have not managed to fix 20 years later. History repeats itself.
Wouldn’t have anything to do with being in the rust belt and being heat cycled at least twice a day for its entire life.
@@RadDadisRad , other brands don't have that issue, because they use stainless steel. So, don't blame rust.
Shit the 460’s from the 70’s we’re constantly having manifold problems
Debatable, i work at a dodge dealer and atleast 5-6 hemi’s a week that need exhaust manifold replacement.
@@MrZombies24 , people know how to stay broke and keep dealers in business. That's why I drive best money can buy with stainless steel from factory.
Really like this style of video. Got plans for other engines? NewGen Hemi, the 4.6 Modular, any of the older small and big blocks from the big 3, v6s?
What??
I've heard these engines have a problem with the oil pump gear cracking and breaking at high rpm. Also the LS is way more compact being a pushrod engine.
Oil pump gears only break when you putting a blower on it. There's an aftermarket Billet oil pump as the factory one is powdered metal.
I haven't heard too many F-150 owners going over 7000 rpms and having oil pump gears explode. You are thinking of Mustang owners with stick shifts.
The synthetic bit is definitely bunk. This was clearly a lack of maintenance. Only time you'll potentially have issues is if the engine never comes up to temperature from constant short drives, which causes lots of fuel vapors and condensation to make its way into the oil, which will cause varnish deposits along with corrosion, and that will be an issue for either conventional or synthetic.
Hello, my f150 has a misfire in cylinder 4. Its going into the shop in a couple days but I am curious the issue is from my short drives to work which is literally five minutes through the neighborhood. We do go on long road trips but most days its five minutes to work and five to the store.
@@3DGEM3 what was the diagnosis?
@@MR-nl8xr digging into engine, headgasket and valve job. Quoted 7 grand. We ended up trading in the truck. Put 8 grand down on a 2022 subaru forester wilderness
@@3DGEM3 your only symptom was a random misfire in cylinder 4?
"Money aside, if you put the same components on this as your LS/LT, you'll be 10 times further ahead on this 5.0L" Can someone explain that one to me? (I am an LSx fanboy, but c'mon...)
If that was true, there would be a Coyote fest just like LS fest. Have yet to see a Coyote fest.
@@ashes2ashes863 Well, LS1s came out 13 years before the first Coyote, and they made way more LSxs, so that is probably why there aren't as many 5.0L builds, but I'm trying to figure out how a 5.0L is going to outperform a 6.2 or 7.0L with the same caliber of parts just because it has more cams
@@FlatBlack_240SX at the end of the day I think it's really more about reliability. You can make an LS engine or a decent pushrod engine like the old school LT 350 produce a lot of horsepower for a little bit of money and it's still a compact package. The only way you seem to ever get real power out of these dual overhead cam larger V8 engines is if you build them specifically for performance and performance alone. The issue with that is nobody buying a Mustang is going to rebuild the engine every three weekends. They still have to drive this thing. So that might work for NHRA or an alcohol funny car or something, but it doesn't work in the real world. I understand why a lot of four cylinders are designed this way because it's more for fuel efficiency then performance. But once they start pushing the redline reliability becomes an issue with that many moving parts. I would be willing to bet if this coyote motor had been cared for appropriately it probably would have still ran a long time. The issue we have today is despite the fact that people spend all this ridiculous money on cars, they still don't get their oil changed but once a year which is insane. That's the reason I would always stick with the 6-2 over any coyote motor. I respect what Ford did with the coyote motor, but at the end of the day I don't see any advantage to it over the old school design of the overhead valve V-8 engine.
Two other real irony. The V8 LS engine seems to get better gas mileage in reality than any coyote motor ever does, and they definitely get better gas mileage than the Twin Turbo V6 Ford makes even though the original Ecoboost V6 was built specifically to get good gas mileage while being a truck engine. So that was a fail for Ford. But the other thing that I'll leave you with, ford has actually going back to an overhead valve engine design for their work truck as has Dodge. Its not an accident. They made fun of GM for years for doing it and then the 6.0 became a legend workhorse. Now Ford and Dodge went back to copying GM again. And I'm sure both the Ford and Dodge overhead valve V-8 will probably be pretty reliable because they made plenty of good engines in the past. I just think it's funny that they bashed GM for so many years for still building overhead valve engines only to copy them again 20 years later.
@@ashes2ashes863 You will see the mustang at Ford Fest when the border opens again. Likely 2021
@@DEBOSSGARAGE much respect to you! I love the education you provide in your videos. Your one of the best in the business in my opinion.
Everything wrong with Coyote 5.0:
"Duhh its real big, wise it done got them-thur thangs hangin offa the toppa the heads?"
"Whurrs the pushrawds at yaawl?"
"Syn theddick awl done ree-acted with the aluminum!"
Now that's too funny Steve. Love it!!!
😂😂😂
"Is that a phaser like on star trek? That's the only way it be winnin races, out here stunnin other drivers an shit. Got damn son, it don't even lope like a racecar".
That engines been rode hard and driven on the oil change light.
Honestly super cool seeing teardowns and hypothesizing what happend.
push rod engines are old tech but Ford's new 7.3 gas is a push rod engine.
I wonder if Ford will make a smaller version of the Godzilla , like a 5.?? liter version.
Old tech doesnt mean poor quality or unreliable that's for sure. Push rod engines produce excellent low end torque and hp.
@@TheUltimateCrash1990 they did. It was in the fox body mustang. Well it was very similar still a pushrod 5 litter.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I think this video needs a follow up way to much controversy. That's my 2 cents
NO science or testing about the oil, that motor seems like the OIL wasn't changed to often. FURTHER, non-synth oil not used in most new engines at lighter weights.
So is synthetic bad? Or should I go with a high quality conventional? I'm getting a gen 2 5.0 with 54k miles on it and I'd like to maintain it the best as possible. Also, what are you considering a "high quality" conventional oil?
Does it help that I change my oil every 3k miles?
That would've saved this engine all right!
2018 and some 2019 5.0's are getting replaced, yes the newer Plasma Transfer Wire Arc cylinder liner ones. It's all over the Internet right now, lots of people getting replacement engines in their trucks under warranty.
Lots of people who have that uncommon issue. Thats a small group. It’s not widespread.
@@vojnikjna30 What are you saying? It's not uncommon at all, go talk to any service shop at any Ford dealer.
You are not up to date. The latest pcm flash fixes the oil burning. Enginnering came back and said the engines that were replaced had nothing wrong with them.
@@BrianBourgeois- I assume you're referring to TSB 19-2365.. I'm not not up to date; some are reporting success with it some are not and are continuing to complain to Ford. I have a thread on this subject on ford-trucks.com forum with 51k views started in March 2019 by me.
You could do a video "Everything Wrong with a Ford 6.2" that would be 3 seconds long. It'd just be you saying, "even though it's a Ford, there's nothing wrong with the 6.2."
Ford blows
@@bilbobaggins4710 Good one..
Damn good long living power plants , I'm so curious to see how the new 7.3 gas turns out, from what I seen on the engineering break down of it with the prototype it seems like a really reliable design,time will tell what they vuck up in manufacturing but yes it's hard to beat. 6.2 reliability I have seen ALOT with beyond 300000 miles like I have 4.62valve, if your 4.6 2v has spark plugs threads and you don't keep running the crap out of it with the timing chain slapping they last as long as an old 300, I can say that because I have an 03 with 400000,she's tired but still going could use a rering and valve job for sure , got multiple 300's with God only knows how many miles and I'm hoping to start a 6.2 swap in a 74f250 this fall if all goes well with the donor truck
@@rswany16 well it does pure and simple ...Ford sucks ass all day every day ...anyone with at least a room temperature IQ knows that 😉
@@bilbobaggins4710 And i bet your Civic can tow 20,000 pounds too... You can stick to honda im gonna stick with Ford. I have owned 3 Fords and haven't had any problems with them and my family has owned dozens collectively and also haven't had any problems with them.
I have a 2007 Ford f150 bought it brand new in 2007 I've always done my maintenance on time and I also use seafoam before every oil change and I have never had any issues with my engine I have 230,000 miles on it right and it still runs
Love the videos man thank you so much I’m 17 and have learned so much!! I’m from Alberta nice to see another Canadian successful on RUclips
Use synthetic oil and a good oil filter.
Nothing wrong with the Coyote engine its perfect especially the 3 gen which recently went 7's in the 1/4 mile. Stock sealed from oil pan to intake with just a custom Twin turbo and few other bolt on's in the car it came in. For under 41k dollars, price of car included $38K 2018 base 5.0, No other car's out there can make this claim.
Stock injectors?
cars have been running 7s for decades. It took ford 100 years to make good v8?
oh Kay 😳
@@BloodAlwaysFindsItsLevel can you elaborate more
Ford has been making the 302 since the late 60's.my dad had one in his 69 Galaxie 500.great engines,even then.
Under $41k for the build? Price of the car was $38k? But a custom twin turbo setup was only $3k? Hmm don't think so.
The way of the future just lost its pieces all over your oil pan.
And dont forget it costs twice as much to hop it up ,smh🤔🤣⚓⚓⚓⚓⚓⚓⚓boat anchor
Yeah that was some super weak reasoning against a cam in block motor. I'm no Chevy guy (though I own one, LOL) but everyone was sniffing at GM's cam in block stuff 20-25 years ago, trashing it as 'outdated' etc and lo and behold it's still around and going strong.
I’ve owned 4 fords and every one blew the engine. 3 chevys they leak but always run, a diesel dodge which has always run. I told my wife no fords for my daughter, I didn’t realize Mazda had a ford engine. Guess what, we just got finished changing the engine. That engine also has the complicated timing because there is no key way on the crank for the timing chain gear, the balancer pinches it to hold it in place.
This really is an interesting and informative video! I and my two sons own F150s, one with a 5.4 and the other two with 5.0s. Mine has 273,000 miles and runs like a top and has had no issues. I learned a long time ago that you can’t overdue on oil changes. I currently have two Jeep Grand Cherokees, one with a 4.0 with 342,000 miles, and the other with a 4.7 with 360,000 miles. I have always changed all the fluids more often than recommended by the manufacturers and that has really paid off for us all. I would love to see more of these videos! Thanks!
1:40 that’s why she seized.
Can you do an everything wrong with the 1st gen 3.5ecoboost
Easy, timing chain/ tensioner issues, turbo actuator issues, carbon fouling on the intake valves, it's why they added port fuel injection
would probably be more reasonable to do everything right with it, much shorter video
That would be a great video!
Okay, so this builder lost me when he said it doesn't change displacement. It does.
Displacement is swept volume, which is stroke * piston area * no cyls
CR is not in that equation. If you increase your piston diameter, you will increase displacement.
And since you are boring our the whole cylinder, minus a very small change in the math with the head dome volume, the CR should not change either. The dome changes that slightly, so to maintain the exact CR that is where your piston top height has to drop so that you maintain an equal CR. Displacement still increases though...
I'm thinking he meant that the FACTORY replacement oversize pistons lower the piston tops just enough so that the computer can't tell that the cylinder is slightly different than the rest. They can overbore ONE hole .020 put in a new piston and the computer can't tell so it runs well. Kind of a moot point, but it works for warranty stuff, keeps it cheap.
@@smjones4238 exactly
My 2013 f150 with the gen 1 5.0 has been a phenomenal truck. Great power, I had a water hose crack, I went ahead and changed it and fixed the fault with the water cooler piping.dont know why so many say these trucks are underpowered or turds.
I can't wait to tune mine, just don't know which tune I wanna get for it or who from. 5 star tuning didn't impress me much with my 2001 4.6.
Keep in mind, there's not much room for tuning with a stock 4.6 2 valve engine. Unless you changed the cams, heads or a stroker kit. Ford nailed it with the 2 valve 4.6
2011 e250 4.6v8 loaded at all times 8500lbs with 430000km i got 15000km between oil changes lol
When he started going off on syn-oil, I had to check if this was an April 1st edition.
I have seen many problems with synthetic oil in my 35 years of being a master tech and running a shop.
Personally will not use synthetic, or pennzoil!!
Fortunately but unfortunately I own a 2019, first I’ve owned that takes synthetic. I started to wonder as I’ve never ran it before because Roy doesn’t make sense to me.. most things synthetic really aren’t as good as what they could be, they are compensating for something for a purpose with synthetic materials. Oil, is like blood, why would you make something strictly take synthetic..? Is there a way to be able to run conventional?
@@person-sx2wc the synthetic molecules are 3-5X smaller that conventional oil, that's why if you run it in an older engine they leak..
The engine was not built to the tolerances of today.
Nor the gaskets.
And synthetic handles heat a little better, don't buy pennzoil, change it every 3 months or 3k, especially if it issues allot. And never buy a used government vehicle!!
@@person-sx2wc Unless your engine calls for 0-20 you dont have to run synthetic. 5-20 and up is offered in conventional. GM has their bullshit Dexos that requires you to use at least a Dexos blend or you can void your warranty on the engine. Ford doesn't require you to use full or blend but if the weight called for is only offered in either, your hands are tied. Tolerances are tight on new engines.
The only reason all manufacturers are going to synthetic is because it's a way better oil than conventional say you can go longer between oil changes and that is why epa wants it to lessen oil changes therefore less waste but no real engineer agrees withe going that long between oil changes just pressure from epa
This video could have been real short. The only thing wrong with a Coyote is the oil pump gear if you are planning on making a lot of power. These are one of the most solid, well-built engines on the planet.
All you have to do is change the oils and Ford Engines last a lifetime.
The timing chain tensioner would disagree
Konner Kramer considering I have a Ford 5.0 with well over 500k miles on it, I’ve only ever changed the oils, oil filter, belts, and pullies, I’d say my 5.0 disagrees with that statement lol
@@AngryTexian like I said the plastic timing chain tensioner that are a well know problem are lucky to make it to 100,000k miles. Until I see proof I'm just going to assume your another clueless ford fan boy. The tensioner in my 2012 5.0 made it 65k miles before it broke and cost me $1500 to fix.
You know it i got over 500k on a 4.0 ranger
@@konnerkramer329 yeah sure everybody owns everything on the internet. Until I see proof of what you claim I'm just going to have to assume you are some anti-ford wanker
I have a 5l 2011 in a F150 and it as 530000 km on it !!! Still run good !! Just did all the spark plug and 1 coil !! Thanks for the video !!
Excellent video. A lot of really good observations, but also a lot of very confident conclusions and full explanations on the causes of things. I don't think you can draw those conclusions. For example, all engines running on synthetic burn oil. Engines stripped down for efficiency with loose fitting components like rings burn oil. You are not evaluating a system in isolation. There are driving habits, climate, engine design and construction, etc etc...far too many variables than to have these simplistic conclusions.
they did a pretty good job of couching their explanations. these are some experienced guys.
@@sparty94 I agree, but there are some implications. At the end of the day, they have seen many problems, and identified conditions or symptoms these have in common. They have also identified fixes that work. Is there a problem with that?
Yes and no. Ultimately it doesn't matter why. If something works don't change it. It's engineering not science. However correlation isn't causation. Certain additive packs vs"synthetic" under different conditions could make all the difference. Moderately used synthetic vs conventional oils at cold temperatures are miles different. I'd rather have some crystal buildup than molasses in my sump.
I know they're smart guys, but they are too free with their conclusions. They're excellent up to that 95%.
How about the 4.9 300 from the old square body fords
Love that engine. The ones I had were bullet proof.
very reliable engines
It delivered like 150HP but it would do that for 50 years strong.
Best engine ford ever made and ever will.
Love mine, ive had it 13 yrs, still work out of it daily. All i do is change the oil and put gas in it.
I think its funny how the mechanic is calling the LS/LT old Tech (it is) like it's a bad thing. If your DOHC VVT engine costs more than twice as much to make the same HP then is it Progress???? If it's not lasting far longer, is it Progress????
You're not wrong. I'm a big fan of the saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it".. But the fact is these engines (Coyote, EcoBoost, whatever) are constantly improving as technology becomes available and emissions standards become stricter, and I predict in the near future LS motors won't be able to compete in the new vehicle market unless they start making big changes...
@@NovaNinja_ Well, Ford seems to have my opinion also since we now have the new 7.3 Godzilla engine. I have a 1961 Ford F100 waiting for one to show up at the wrecking yard.
@@NovaNinja_ I think by biggest complaint about all the modern engines is why are you using aluminum in the engine block in the first place if its a truck engine??
You only saved about 100 pounds, the vehicle weighs over 5000, it costs much more to make the aluminum block and its "Potentially" less durable. To me it's just stupid.
@@NovaNinja_ They've been saying that for over 20 years.
the LS/LT IS old tech. So is the DOHC on the coyote.