The blocker plate that came with my sub $20 ebay egr delete kit was put on my 2004 Lly @ 108k miles & now I’m @ 415k miles with a ppe 120hp tune the same time it was egr & exhaust filter deleted-belows are still holding strong 💪🏼 so how many miles do I have to wait until it explodes😂? Just curious although you did say 9 out of 10 times-guess my truck is the 1!!! I’m going to celebrate with 9 boosted launches!!!!
Respectfully, I owned an professional exhaust service center for 31 years and your analogy on the flex joint is 100% incorrect. The "added pressure" from the block off plate WILL NEVER add stress to the flex joint as the exhaust will ALWAYS take the path of least resistance, that being the down pipe exit. What you are referring to as a "Bellows" is a heat and expansion flex joint, which will allow the pipe to flex with torque and heat cycles. Unless you completely block off your exhaust system you will NEVER produce enough pressure in that flex joint to cause it to tail, the failure in the flex joints are from flex and heat cycles, non stainless FJ's will succumb to erosion due to the environment. For your analogy to be correct, the flex joint in the lower pipe would fail under "pressure" but will not as the gas takes the path of least resistance. The most efficient way to stop that flex joint from coming apart is to secure it if you remove the EGR, if it it simply blocked and allowed to swing in the heat cycle, it will fail however it HAS NOTHING WHAT SO EVER to do with pressure causing the failure. Once the EGR is removed, the leg is no longer secured and the leg is not at the mercy of being ever cycled and THAT is why they fail, just as if you would take a piece of thin metal and bend it back and forth several cycles, it gets heated and breaks, same principal. In NO WAY can I debate you on a Diesel build, however I know in this matter (the exhaust flex joint) you are incorrect on the reason for this flex joint failure, if a block off plate is used and the head of the leg is secured, allowing the flex joint to cycle as designed, it will NEVER fail due to "pressure" as you are describing. These flex joints have been place on catalytic convertors since the late 70's and are incredible when secured, however when a person allows their broken exhaust hanger to go unrepaired, they will fracture, just as the EGR leg will. PRESSURE has nothing to do with it. GREAT CHANNEL, stay safe and God Bless.
I completely agree. The expansion joint is a linear expansion joint. When people put on a blocker plate between the Y pipe and the EGR cooler it puts quite a bit of offset on the Y pipe expansion joint. That expansion joint is very close to the EGR mounting flange and was not designed for that. Many people will crack the expansion joint when tightening down the Y pipe flange to the blocker plate/EGR cooler. I can also see where they remove the EGR cooler and valve and just block off the up pipe on the Y and yes, that joint was not made to be free floating without support. It will fatigue and rupture without the proper support.
You do know the blocker plate also mounts to the existing EGR mount on the engine right? It does not move. The entire setup is rigid. Edit: not talking about the thin plates that slip in between the EGR cooler and the Up Pipe. I'm talking about the blocker plates that are used when the EGR system is completely removed, which is the most common setup and is what Truck Master is showing in this video. Those retain the same dimensions as the factory setup, and they bolt to the existing mounts and are rigid, fixed in place. These engines actually do produce enough exhaust pressure to pop open those paper thin bellows. These are variable geometry turbos and are also the Exhaust Brake. When the exhaust plate in the turbo is closed, all of the exhaust pressure coming out if the engine is retained in the manifolds and the Up Pipes to help slow down the truck. The pressure is released again once the exhaust plate in the turbo opens up. These rarely fail with the stock setup because the pressure is constantly released through the EGR valve into the intake system. Once the horrible EGR system is removed and the blocker plate is added, the bellows section typically blows out in less than a year. There's pictures of these pipes where the bellows had so much pressure on them that they unfolded and elongated out of shape into a weird bend, while usually breaking or cracking in the process.
Mine blew out in less than a year. Current fighting the stuck bolts on the passenger side Up Pipe. Have been soaking them for days in penetration oils. Have hit them with a torch. Nothing works. Probably gonna have to break them off, remove the manifolds and the turbo and get a machine shop to drill them out and clean up the threads. Such a nightmare job. Replacing the OEM junk with PPE up pipes and down pipe. They're the best you can get. Internally sleeved reinforced bellows on these PPE pipes will never blow out.
I’d agree with this, if the cooler was removed & there was nothing supporting the up pipe However, if the cooler stays in place, and you put a blocker plate between the cooler and up pipe, it’s just fine.
My son and I when we talk about about someone who is outstanding. We say.. He’s a GOOD Man! You Sir are a GOOD MAN. Sadly, We don’t say it often nowadays.
I feel like there’s a misconception that the blocker plate is the root cause of the bellows failure on the exhaust up pipe. It most likely is caused by removing the egr cooler and the section of pipe that was connected and supported by the egr cooler is now not properly anchored. With the vibrations and expansion/contraction from heat, that bellows fatigues and cracks.
@ Steemy Rickenbacker - ...yup, that is exactly the proper assessment, the rest is SHITE. There is a difference between doing the obvious shade-tree move without proper analysis and attention to potential repercussions, vs properly REengineering a feature. ...and because one JACKo claims 'has done it' & 'has had no problems for years', does not mean said JACKo has effectively lucked up and then use the opportunity to savor the rebuttal!
This makes perfect sense to me. Without the support there, the hot gas, pressure changes, and vibrations seem like they would put a LOT of stress on the bellows. If the EGR is blocked AND left in place, it should provide enough support to keep it from blowing. So if you want to go cheap/easy, you have to leave the EGR in place and go through the hassle of re-installing it after putting in a y-bridge/delete/CP3, etc. That's what I am wrestling with now. I am doing a CP3 conversion and I don't want to put any of that crap back in. But I also know that the LB7 up pipe is a PITA to remove and comes with risks (like bolts breaking off).
What you described is what happens to a 6.4 powerstroke when you remove it's egr coolers the pipe for them breaks lose from the holder and then it spews hot exhaust on the cab and it catches on fire
While the end result is the same, I have to disagree on the cause of bellows cracking after the installation of a blocker plate. In my opinion, as an engineer, I believe it cracks due to new-found thermal stresses caused by the stagnant flow in the EGR branch. The exhaust pressure in the up pipe will be very similar to when the EGR was installed. Stresses caused by thermal gradients can be immense - think of what happens when you put a cold baking sheet into a hot oven: *boing* and the baking sheet warps.
@@remster1159 Been running a 2004.5 and 2005 both with blocker plates for 10 years. 300k on 1 and 270K on other. Thats since install.... NO ISSUES with bellows And if they ever do BLOW. NOT going to cause any other ENGINE DAMAGE like stated in vid.
AGREED the video isn't based in solid physics or real world results it's just Diesel truck "enthusiast" theory and there's plenty of wild theories floating around out there 🤣👍🏻
Had a block off plate on my lbz for a while and it broke on the usual spot but luckily my buddy has a lml and he deleted his and he just gave me his up pipe that I cut and welded a piece of metal and just installed yesterday, also I'm really happy to have all the power back on my lbz
Been watching your videos for a year now, the egr delete was something I wanted to do, glad I waited, your first video was a cheap evergreen delete and you didn't do the y bridge, I just bought the WC fab y bridge kit thanks to your videos, I have a 2007 classic lbz looks just like yours (but not as badass yet) love your videos keep em coming.
i did this on my LML i used the affirm program to get a good tuner and do a delete with a really good blocker plate that uses the mounting holes from the EGR bolts to secure the leg of the up pipe to were it cant move like it still had the EGR still there and year later after i paid off affirm i had used affirm agin to make payments to do the WCFab kit and not had any problem but i still do want to get the better up-pipes replaced (perferbly american made and not sold from china since had got screwed on items sold by too many chinese sellers before) on the passenger side but dunno if want to replace drivers side at the same time or not
That bellows is meant to have pressure and yes over time they naturally do crack. But more so when left unsupported. So what if you leave ur cooler on and just slide the blocker plate in? It stays supported and for us in Cali who can’t fully delete egr system it is easily reversible. How come no one ever talks about Cali trucks and only full deletes. Not every one can just fully delete their trucks even if money is not a factor
Another thing to get rid of is the stock y bridge. Their seals go out causing a boost leak. I replaced mine with one from PUSHER hands down best on the market.
Here’s the deal I put in a blocker plate because all the bolts for my up pipe are rusted in there salad I already snap one off trying to get to the pipe off and had to fix it in the truck so at this point I’m kind of screwed and waiting for that to blow.
I've heard people talk all the time about using LB7 parts to help do an EGR delete and actually heard in one video that the LB7 engine doesn't need an EGR delete, is that true? From what I understand your saying that an LB7 up pipe doesn't need to be replaced, what about the Y bridge? Please excuse my ignorance I have always worked on gasoline truck engines for the most part and haven't worked on diesel engines very much and I recently got an 03 Durumax with the LB7 engine and I'm just learning how to work on it. Any advice would be helpful and appreciated, thanks 👍
I have a blocker plate but the plan is to just replace that up pipe with a ppe it’s just to get to and from work for now. Awesome information that is much needed.
I own a 2006 LLY/LBZ 200k+ and am trying to decide whether to do full delete or just replace the EGR coller and clean the intake elbow and re-install. I may .install upgrade downpipe. I have watched tons of videos and am totally confused at this point. I am about to replace leaking intercooler and thought I would do some other work while I had the truck apart. I cleaned the egr and intake elbow about 5 years ago, but didnt really know enought to clead the coller at the time. I'm worried that coolrer is gunked up something terrible. I don't really pull tow much load anymore, just a light flats boat at highway speeds. My son is about to go off to college and I want to get as much done as possible before I lose my helper.
The exhaust pressure is not what blows the bellows out. It is the poorly made blocker plate mount that puts physical pressure on the up pipe bellow. You need a blocker plate mount that is manufactured at the same exact spacing/angle as the EGR cooler so it does not fail.
i did put 2 washers under the blocker plate tab to make it straight AND i did use 4inch hose clamp to keep the up pipe straight.... wish me luck aswell as 2 4 inch hose clamp that hold my y bridge together with 2 new oring ! :D lol im pushing my luck lets see
i don't know what you are talking about,I'm not a mechanic, i have a 2008 -2500HD duramax. bad fuel mileage ,black smoke on acceleration and bad power, 2 dealer mechanics and one 40 yr mechanic said don't chip it just drive. i told all 3 to shove-it ! i will drive it off a cliff before i settle with this. i did the off road company line exaust upgrade with chip and WOW , 4 mile per gallon better 17.5 mpg and no more smoke and wow the power ! that was 150 k back so i can say it was the right thing to do.hope this helps someone .
What if I just replace the up pipe with an LB7 up pipe and don't do the y bridge. Is this any easier? I watched your other video on the y bridge install and it looks pretty involved.
Thank you for, "dumbing" that down, I have been somewhat confused on the whole egr thing, still what more understanding but will keep feeding my brain. When I do, do a delete, will I throw a code and if so, is efi the only way to keep it cleared? Thanks again for staying humble, sharing and never judge.
If I just install a blocking plate on the up pipe do I need to do anything else?? I have a efi live tunner installed already. It’s a 2009 lmm I just wanna do it simple for a couple months
Is there a delete kit that will allow the egr and cooler to remain on the engine? I plan on cutting the up pipe and welding it shut but leave the elbow bolted to the cooler. I'm also going to install a "finger stick" to basically bypass the egr so it will have to also remain on the engine. All this is for emissions inspection purposes. I want the benefit of deleting the egr and added air flow but still need to keep everything in place for looks. I also would like to replace the factory y-bridge.
Very well explained. I don’t own a duramax I’ve got a Cummins but this is a very well explained upgrade to your truck with visuals as to why. Nicely done sir, and like others said, no foul language, keep it up!
Yea if your tuning and pushing more pressure through then yes that’s possible. But on a stock truck this isn’t going to happen. So if you are worried about emission checks coming to you then use a blocker and fingerstick.
its because of TM that when i deleted i went with Y bridge, cut and welded the up pipe. His experiences helped in my decisions and i've been trouble free. Pry shoulda threw in your stock Y bridge experience in with that video! But hey great channel congrats on 25k Sub's
Ok Senor , asking for some advice . I have a 2008 Chevy Duramax 6.6 that I bought used and the guy said it was deleted n detuned . Well she’s been limping bad so my first route was to change the fuel filter and I added a fuel cleaner from Walmart & she seemed fine but she would smoke heavily on take offs and it would limp right away and then much later she’d have full power . So as I was researching what’s causing it to limp and use a lot of fuel I ran across the dpf filter and how to remove it to remove the traps to the filter & blow it out w air while a guy in the UK showed his method which involved using a portion of draino n water to clean it and then give it an acid bath n final water rinse . So I was like either way I don’t own crows foot tools or the long bars n my Jack isn’t working and I’m broke . So my friend suggested that I check the EGR SENSOR OR EFR VALVE . Well I sprayed degreaser underneath and while I was down there I noticed right away that I don’t have a catalyst converter nor do I have an dpf filter just a straight pipe . Ok but I’ve noticing a wet spot next to the air filter I guess where this pipe runs to and it smells like radiator fluid though my radiator fluid is fine . So the up pipe that you mentioned where may I get one and also about the blocker and cutting it so that it ya can block it there after ya cut it off ? If I send ya pictures do ya think that you’d be able to tell me what I have and what ya recommend to install ? I’ve taken your advice on how to remove and install the starter so far n the power booster and power steering pump . Well I don’t know how to paste a photo on here .
I find it interesting to see that you still have your OEM filter and housing intact. You do have a lift pump correct? So why not delete the OEM filter and housing and run Direct from your lift pump to your motor? That factory filter and housing is only weakening your fuel pressure the lift pump sends to your CP3.
Welded mine up after 3weeks mine did the same thing. Wasn't going to pay for one built without it, since cutting it off was easy. Welded 1/4" plate to plug it. Done
Can you make video.how make egr delete in 01-02 duramax.everybody make videos to make egr deleted in 04 and up duranax .but you can find one to see how make it in 01 -02
My turbo needs to be replaced and following your videos, I am taking your advice fully delete the egr and install a new up pipe. Thanks for the discount on shipping from W C fabrication . This might be a challenge but with your videos I think its possible
Watched almost all your videos been a fan thru you dirtymax fix...got a 2011 duramax def fluid emissions system has gone out 3 times since I got the truck,twice under warranty 1 time without and that's now,,going to do a full delete of the junk on my truck, had and problems I need to know About? Thanks for any advise.
I just had a [DPF and EGR] delete done on my otherwise stock 2010 LMM. The truck runs great, but the method was to use blocker plates on the up pipe and the cold side intake with the removal of the EGR cooler and valve. I may do some additional changes later as time/money allows, and I see that the EGR blocker plate is anchored to the engine block securely, so the up pipe cannot move/flex. My son-in-law has had the same setup from the same shop for at least 4 years now with no issues...so my question is this...how long does it take for the up pipe to fail typically? Am I safe waiting a year or so to do that replacement?
Ugh, I have a blocker plate on mine.....20k miles........so the fix is an lb7 up pipe? What else should be done at the same time to save install money? Mine is a 2015
Got the big question of the day..... Why does the outlaw egr delete kit come with an up pipe and a blocker plate? Would the blocker plate go on the back of the cooler?
@@TruckMaster CjwKCAiA45njBRBwEiwASnZT54fn24uC0Br8C68StqLSU6nMHvmqDWgwj4ItAJUxxlP1g32DcEOpoBoCbogQAvD_BwE I assumed that the plate it this kit was an egr blocker plate
Is there a specific blocker plate used for where the egr cooler connects to the firewall? Looking into doing your full y-bridge egr delete on an lly, but need to address the hose and the blocker plate that was included in the first kit. Where can I buy these two parts since they are not included in the wcfab y-bridge kit?
I am looking a buying a GMC Van that has a LGH Duramax. Can you tell me if there are any issues that I should be looking for when buying this van. It has low miles but lived in Alaska so it probably has some idle time I will assume. Any input is greatly appreciated. Love your channel. Keep em coming
Hello T.M. I realize this is an old post I'm reading but maybe you will answer my question. I have an 04 lly. I want to put a blocker plate in between the up pipe and the stock egr cooler. If I do this should I unplug the egr motor? Will the plate cause damage to the egr motor?
Would you say that all the stuff you have installed under your hood, really helps & is it all worth the $ spent? I have 121 miles on my 2006 LBZ, & other than the cat filter with adapter, fuel port work & the airdog pump, I havnt done much too my truck. It's been a great truck pulling a 34ft 4 slant gooseneck horse trailer, 28ft toy hauler & a 30ft bumper tow utility trailer. And I have a 6" fts lift with 35" mt tires.
Do it right the first time. It’s not cheap and it’s not fun but this could’ve been avoided. Love you videos. I just bought the complete wc fab kit cause you haha.
Shortly after a delete kit on 07 Chevy duramax I noticed my oil level was low and there was oil residue in the intercooler pipe. I was told the only thing it could be was a turbo oil seal leak. Do you agree?
Are the bolts prone to breaking on the up pipe when you remove them? Just wondering if I should be prepared for more little stuff when I do the up pipe
how typical is it for one/or more of the up pipe bolts to break when removing/upgrading? if one breaks, is it ok to run with 2 of the 3 for a few days until you can pull the turbo to remove the broken bolt? i've done a PRO FAB intake tube/egr delete kit as well as downpipe and drivers side exhaust manifold(upgraded to LML manifold) and all the bolts have come apart without any trouble. im hoping when i do up pipes soon i wont have any issues. 08 LMM dmax here.
I had no problems with the top ones and I'd use a torch to heat the bottom ones up before taking them out. only one gave me trouble so I removed the manifold and fixed it. but my truck had only 50 thousand on it at the time might have more of a hard time with a higher mile or more corroded one
Hey man, I have the lb7 and I’m starting to have the iconic injector issues. Especially now that you are workin in the shop, are you willing to do a video on injectors? Just some insight for us average joe DIY mechanics. I’m not looking for race HP, just injectors that are known for being bulletproof.
LB7 and bulletproof injectors are never synonymous just sayin... Best I've found is tune with a lower peak rail than stock and use bigger nozzle size to compensate for the needed flow at a lower pressure. Pressure is what kills the LB7 injectors quickly
I unplugged my EGR since I can't get the bolts free to put in a blocker plate (gave up). It should stay shut since I'm not running any crazy tune or boost levels.
is there a link you could share to get the wc fab y bride kit ad everything i would need to do the delete for my 2015 lml and where to get the lb7 up pipe or even a more higher performance up pipe
I’d recommend HSP diesel for the Lml the fitment is much better but you can call HSP and they will get you a price on everything you will need also apply my coupon code truckmaster it will save some money on the parts 👍
My EGR branch off completely blew off of the up pipe and I had 0 pounds of boost, soot and raw exhaust leaking into the passenger compartment nearly fucking killing me if I was in traffic😂
Just deleted my 2016 with blocker plates but kept egr installed. I have an exhaust leak at those plates now. Got new gaskets and still leaks. Does the gaskets go towards the back or does the plates go between them? One side wouldn’t have a gasket
Ok I've seen the bellows blow off on a friends truck and we did a parking lot repair with a piece of black pipe capped with ceramic exaust seal putty and a exaust clamp...we got him home.... My question is...I did the cat filter upgrade...but it feels like I'm restricted on fuel...and a couple of times I've had to prime the truck...am I sucking air in the assembly or the stock pump not strong enough to give me enough flow thru the filter....the gm style filter wasn't giving me trouble except for the stupid price... Any thoughts?
I have nicktane adapter. I had same problem losing prime. Fix was make sure the adapter is really tight. I thought mine was tight, was able to get 1/4 turn more.
The blocker plate that came with my sub $20 ebay egr delete kit was put on my 2004 Lly @ 108k miles & now I’m @ 415k miles with a ppe 120hp tune the same time it was egr & exhaust filter deleted-belows are still holding strong 💪🏼 so how many miles do I have to wait until it explodes😂? Just curious although you did say 9 out of 10 times-guess my truck is the 1!!! I’m going to celebrate with 9 boosted launches!!!!
Respectfully, I owned an professional exhaust service center for 31 years and your analogy on the flex joint is 100% incorrect. The "added pressure" from the block off plate WILL NEVER add stress to the flex joint as the exhaust will ALWAYS take the path of least resistance, that being the down pipe exit.
What you are referring to as a "Bellows" is a heat and expansion flex joint, which will allow the pipe to flex with torque and heat cycles. Unless you completely block off your exhaust system you will NEVER produce enough pressure in that flex joint to cause it to tail, the failure in the flex joints are from flex and heat cycles, non stainless FJ's will succumb to erosion due to the environment. For your analogy to be correct, the flex joint in the lower pipe would fail under "pressure" but will not as the gas takes the path of least resistance.
The most efficient way to stop that flex joint from coming apart is to secure it if you remove the EGR, if it it simply blocked and allowed to swing in the heat cycle, it will fail however it HAS NOTHING WHAT SO EVER to do with pressure causing the failure. Once the EGR is removed, the leg is no longer secured and the leg is not at the mercy of being ever cycled and THAT is why they fail, just as if you would take a piece of thin metal and bend it back and forth several cycles, it gets heated and breaks, same principal.
In NO WAY can I debate you on a Diesel build, however I know in this matter (the exhaust flex joint) you are incorrect on the reason for this flex joint failure, if a block off plate is used and the head of the leg is secured, allowing the flex joint to cycle as designed, it will NEVER fail due to "pressure" as you are describing. These flex joints have been place on catalytic convertors since the late 70's and are incredible when secured, however when a person allows their broken exhaust hanger to go unrepaired, they will fracture, just as the EGR leg will. PRESSURE has nothing to do with it.
GREAT CHANNEL, stay safe and God Bless.
I completely agree. The expansion joint is a linear expansion joint. When people put on a blocker plate between the Y pipe and the EGR cooler it puts quite a bit of offset on the Y pipe expansion joint. That expansion joint is very close to the EGR mounting flange and was not designed for that. Many people will crack the expansion joint when tightening down the Y pipe flange to the blocker plate/EGR cooler. I can also see where they remove the EGR cooler and valve and just block off the up pipe on the Y and yes, that joint was not made to be free floating without support. It will fatigue and rupture without the proper support.
You do know the blocker plate also mounts to the existing EGR mount on the engine right? It does not move. The entire setup is rigid.
Edit: not talking about the thin plates that slip in between the EGR cooler and the Up Pipe. I'm talking about the blocker plates that are used when the EGR system is completely removed, which is the most common setup and is what Truck Master is showing in this video. Those retain the same dimensions as the factory setup, and they bolt to the existing mounts and are rigid, fixed in place.
These engines actually do produce enough exhaust pressure to pop open those paper thin bellows.
These are variable geometry turbos and are also the Exhaust Brake. When the exhaust plate in the turbo is closed, all of the exhaust pressure coming out if the engine is retained in the manifolds and the Up Pipes to help slow down the truck. The pressure is released again once the exhaust plate in the turbo opens up.
These rarely fail with the stock setup because the pressure is constantly released through the EGR valve into the intake system.
Once the horrible EGR system is removed and the blocker plate is added, the bellows section typically blows out in less than a year.
There's pictures of these pipes where the bellows had so much pressure on them that they unfolded and elongated out of shape into a weird bend, while usually breaking or cracking in the process.
Well said
What if it’s your only option to do a blocker plate cause deleting your whole egr is illegal and have to pass emissions every year where I live
Mine blew out in less than a year. Current fighting the stuck bolts on the passenger side Up Pipe. Have been soaking them for days in penetration oils. Have hit them with a torch. Nothing works. Probably gonna have to break them off, remove the manifolds and the turbo and get a machine shop to drill them out and clean up the threads. Such a nightmare job.
Replacing the OEM junk with PPE up pipes and down pipe. They're the best you can get. Internally sleeved reinforced bellows on these PPE pipes will never blow out.
Thank you for not being like most of the people on RUclips. I didn't hear one cuss word . I understand every word you say . Thank you!
Here, Here!!!!
Dude you'll never hear Truck master cuss his channel is family friendly 💯
Thanks I appreciate that
I would hope you understood him repeat repeated about everything he said 2 to 3 times. Repeat stutter tomato tomahto
Truck Master I appreciate that too. Thanks
I’d agree with this, if the cooler was removed & there was nothing supporting the up pipe
However, if the cooler stays in place, and you put a blocker plate between the cooler and up pipe, it’s just fine.
Yep
Blake T getting a P0299 because of a leaky egr valve, blocking
My son and I when we talk about about someone who is outstanding. We say.. He’s a GOOD Man! You Sir are a GOOD MAN. Sadly, We don’t say it often nowadays.
Thanks I really appreciate that
We refuse to do them at our shop....always replace with an lb7 up pipe. I have repaired so many trucks that have the blocker plate delete.
I feel like there’s a misconception that the blocker plate is the root cause of the bellows failure on the exhaust up pipe. It most likely is caused by removing the egr cooler and the section of pipe that was connected and supported by the egr cooler is now not properly anchored. With the vibrations and expansion/contraction from heat, that bellows fatigues and cracks.
That’s a great point as well
@ Steemy Rickenbacker - ...yup, that is exactly the proper assessment, the rest is SHITE.
There is a difference between doing the obvious shade-tree move without proper analysis and attention to potential repercussions, vs properly REengineering a feature.
...and because one JACKo claims 'has done it' & 'has had no problems for years', does not mean said JACKo has effectively lucked up and then use the opportunity to savor the rebuttal!
@@TruckMaster an answer that keeps your points alive ! nah! nice try!
This makes perfect sense to me. Without the support there, the hot gas, pressure changes, and vibrations seem like they would put a LOT of stress on the bellows. If the EGR is blocked AND left in place, it should provide enough support to keep it from blowing. So if you want to go cheap/easy, you have to leave the EGR in place and go through the hassle of re-installing it after putting in a y-bridge/delete/CP3, etc. That's what I am wrestling with now. I am doing a CP3 conversion and I don't want to put any of that crap back in. But I also know that the LB7 up pipe is a PITA to remove and comes with risks (like bolts breaking off).
What you described is what happens to a 6.4 powerstroke when you remove it's egr coolers the pipe for them breaks lose from the holder and then it spews hot exhaust on the cab and it catches on fire
While the end result is the same, I have to disagree on the cause of bellows cracking after the installation of a blocker plate. In my opinion, as an engineer, I believe it cracks due to new-found thermal stresses caused by the stagnant flow in the EGR branch. The exhaust pressure in the up pipe will be very similar to when the EGR was installed. Stresses caused by thermal gradients can be immense - think of what happens when you put a cold baking sheet into a hot oven: *boing* and the baking sheet warps.
@@remster1159 Been running a 2004.5 and 2005 both with blocker plates for 10 years. 300k on 1 and 270K on other. Thats since install.... NO ISSUES with bellows
And if they ever do BLOW. NOT going to cause any other ENGINE DAMAGE like stated in vid.
AGREED the video isn't based in solid physics or real world results it's just Diesel truck "enthusiast" theory and there's plenty of wild theories floating around out there 🤣👍🏻
Had a block off plate on my lbz for a while and it broke on the usual spot but luckily my buddy has a lml and he deleted his and he just gave me his up pipe that I cut and welded a piece of metal and just installed yesterday, also I'm really happy to have all the power back on my lbz
So what did you do with the egr cooler? Can you just cover it up?
Been watching your videos for a year now, the egr delete was something I wanted to do, glad I waited, your first video was a cheap evergreen delete and you didn't do the y bridge, I just bought the WC fab y bridge kit thanks to your videos, I have a 2007 classic lbz looks just like yours (but not as badass yet) love your videos keep em coming.
Bro thank you. New lml owner here. Saving to delete. Was gonna go blocker plate , not now. Add another 6months the saving tho lol.
i did this on my LML i used the affirm program to get a good tuner and do a delete with a really good blocker plate that uses the mounting holes from the EGR bolts to secure the leg of the up pipe to were it cant move like it still had the EGR still there and year later after i paid off affirm i had used affirm agin to make payments to do the WCFab kit and not had any problem but i still do want to get the better up-pipes replaced (perferbly american made and not sold from china since had got screwed on items sold by too many chinese sellers before) on the passenger side but dunno if want to replace drivers side at the same time or not
Bs. Same pressure and heat as it is when egr valve is closed. Mines been blocked for over ten years. Zero problems.
Mine just blew hauling a fifth wheel after 13 years. Messy when it does
That bellows is meant to have pressure and yes over time they naturally do crack. But more so when left unsupported. So what if you leave ur cooler on and just slide the blocker plate in? It stays supported and for us in Cali who can’t fully delete egr system it is easily reversible. How come no one ever talks about Cali trucks and only full deletes. Not every one can just fully delete their trucks even if money is not a factor
@@sdsupratt sucks to be you in California!!! Do it right or dont do it at all is my opinion. That's all
Best duramax channel on RUclips!! Continue the good
Work
+frieddieromero051795 I really appreciate that.
Another thing to get rid of is the stock y bridge. Their seals go out causing a boost leak. I replaced mine with one from PUSHER hands down best on the market.
Love your Wrenching & Educational video's...… BEST DMax Channel on RUclips! Thanks Man.
+Phil G. Thanks!
Here’s the deal I put in a blocker plate because all the bolts for my up pipe are rusted in there salad I already snap one off trying to get to the pipe off and had to fix it in the truck so at this point I’m kind of screwed and waiting for that to blow.
Watching 5 years later bought truck with the blocker plate and I had the up pipe bellow blow not the egr side
I've heard people talk all the time about using LB7 parts to help do an EGR delete and actually heard in one video that the LB7 engine doesn't need an EGR delete, is that true? From what I understand your saying that an LB7 up pipe doesn't need to be replaced, what about the Y bridge? Please excuse my ignorance I have always worked on gasoline truck engines for the most part and haven't worked on diesel engines very much and I recently got an 03 Durumax with the LB7 engine and I'm just learning how to work on it. Any advice would be helpful and appreciated, thanks 👍
I have a blocker plate but the plan is to just replace that up pipe with a ppe it’s just to get to and from work for now. Awesome information that is much needed.
I own a 2006 LLY/LBZ 200k+ and am trying to decide whether to do full delete or just replace the EGR coller and clean the intake elbow and re-install. I may .install upgrade downpipe. I have watched tons of videos and am totally confused at this point. I am about to replace leaking intercooler and thought I would do some other work while I had the truck apart. I cleaned the egr and intake elbow about 5 years ago, but didnt really know enought to clead the coller at the time. I'm worried that coolrer is gunked up something terrible. I don't really pull tow much load anymore, just a light flats boat at highway speeds. My son is about to go off to college and I want to get as much done as possible before I lose my helper.
I have a block plate and have the EGR turned off via tune. Been that way for 3 years with no issues yet. Running close to stock power though
The exhaust pressure is not what blows the bellows out. It is the poorly made blocker plate mount that puts physical pressure on the up pipe bellow. You need a blocker plate mount that is manufactured at the same exact spacing/angle as the EGR cooler so it does not fail.
BINGO! Physics at work
As long as the cooler isn't leaking, lv it in
I had a blocker plate on my lml and it was a bad idea. Now I have Ppe up pipes and race manifolds .Oh boy big difference.
What about the slip in plates heard they little better than the other plates like what you had is that true?
Good if you leave the cooler alone
Thanks i have lly doing headgaskets arp studs and down pipe upgrade. Ill have to order the up pipe so i don't have this issue 👍 thanks
i did put 2 washers under the blocker plate tab to make it straight AND i did use 4inch hose clamp to keep the up pipe straight.... wish me luck aswell as 2 4 inch hose clamp that hold my y bridge together with 2 new oring ! :D lol im pushing my luck lets see
+StyleGT oh boy
i will report after my 1k miles trip this weekend XD hahaha.... been holding for 2 months so far no leaks!
still good my friend after 1.2k miles this weekend :)
i don't know what you are talking about,I'm not a mechanic,
i have a 2008 -2500HD duramax. bad fuel mileage ,black smoke on acceleration and bad power, 2 dealer mechanics and one 40 yr mechanic said don't chip it just drive. i told all 3 to shove-it ! i will drive it off a cliff before i settle with this. i did the off road company line exaust upgrade with chip and WOW , 4 mile per gallon better 17.5 mpg and no more smoke and wow the power ! that was 150 k back so i can say it was the right thing to do.hope this helps someone .
What if I just replace the up pipe with an LB7 up pipe and don't do the y bridge. Is this any easier? I watched your other video on the y bridge install and it looks pretty involved.
I'm still waiting on my uppipe I just need to know where my coolant line connect up at
Hope your having a great memorial day weekend thanks to guys and girls like you that we can do the things we do in this country.
+063rdgen 2500CTD thanks brother
+063rdgen 2500CTD thanks
Thank you for, "dumbing" that down, I have been somewhat confused on the whole egr thing, still what more understanding but will keep feeding my brain. When I do, do a delete, will I throw a code and if so, is efi the only way to keep it cleared? Thanks again for staying humble, sharing and never judge.
Very informative, new to the game.
A blocker plate on a stock platform will work fine. Trying to build more power you're going to want to do the full kit correctly.
Just bought my lbz, bone stock with 4 inch straight pipe. Im assuming deleting egr makes the truck breath better?
Been watching your videos for years.
Im a michigan boy. Duramax through and through. Wish you could give me a hand
If I just install a blocking plate on the up pipe do I need to do anything else?? I have a efi live tunner installed already.
It’s a 2009 lmm
I just wanna do it simple for a couple months
Is there a delete kit that will allow the egr and cooler to remain on the engine? I plan on cutting the up pipe and welding it shut but leave the elbow bolted to the cooler. I'm also going to install a "finger stick" to basically bypass the egr so it will have to also remain on the engine. All this is for emissions inspection purposes. I want the benefit of deleting the egr and added air flow but still need to keep everything in place for looks. I also would like to replace the factory y-bridge.
Very well explained. I don’t own a duramax I’ve got a Cummins but this is a very well explained upgrade to your truck with visuals as to why. Nicely done sir, and like others said, no foul language, keep it up!
I'm pretty sure mine has silicone on that part between the y I'm gessin that's where the blocker plate is new lbz owner
Thanks for the info. I’m going to wait and do it right
Yea if your tuning and pushing more pressure through then yes that’s possible. But on a stock truck this isn’t going to happen. So if you are worried about emission checks coming to you then use a blocker and fingerstick.
I did the blocker plate first and my up pipe cracked in the same spot. now I have the full sinister delete with intake elbow and up pipe. way better
I had the sinister blocker plate and mine did the same on my LBZ.
its because of TM that when i deleted i went with Y bridge, cut and welded the up pipe. His experiences helped in my decisions and i've been trouble free. Pry shoulda threw in your stock Y bridge experience in with that video! But hey great channel congrats on 25k Sub's
+Trukin Timmer Duramax thanks boss
Ok Senor , asking for some advice .
I have a 2008 Chevy Duramax 6.6 that I bought used and the guy said it was deleted n detuned .
Well she’s been limping bad so my first route was to change the fuel filter and I added a fuel cleaner from Walmart & she seemed fine but she would smoke heavily on take offs and it would limp right away and then much later she’d have full power .
So as I was researching what’s causing it to limp and use a lot of fuel I ran across the dpf filter and how to remove it to remove the traps to the filter & blow it out w air while a guy in the UK showed his method which involved using a portion of draino n water to clean it and then give it an acid bath n final water rinse .
So I was like either way I don’t own crows foot tools or the long bars n my Jack isn’t working and I’m broke .
So my friend suggested that I check the EGR SENSOR OR EFR VALVE .
Well I sprayed degreaser underneath and while I was down there I noticed right away that I don’t have a catalyst converter nor do I have an dpf filter just a straight pipe . Ok but I’ve noticing a wet spot next to the air filter I guess where this pipe runs to and it smells like radiator fluid though my radiator fluid is fine .
So the up pipe that you mentioned where may I get one and also about the blocker and cutting it so that it ya can block it there after ya cut it off ?
If I send ya pictures do ya think that you’d be able to tell me what I have and what ya recommend to install ?
I’ve taken your advice on how to remove and install the starter so far n the power booster and power steering pump .
Well I don’t know how to paste a photo on here .
I find it interesting to see that you still have your OEM filter and housing intact. You do have a lift pump correct? So why not delete the OEM filter and housing and run Direct from your lift pump to your motor? That factory filter and housing is only weakening your fuel pressure the lift pump sends to your CP3.
Welded mine up after 3weeks mine did the same thing. Wasn't going to pay for one built without it, since cutting it off was easy. Welded 1/4" plate to plug it. Done
Can you make video.how make egr delete in 01-02 duramax.everybody make videos to make egr deleted in 04 and up duranax .but you can find one to see how make it in 01 -02
Did it make a nasty hissing noise when accelerating? I think mine just broke. Can't see the Damn thing though.
My turbo needs to be replaced and following your videos, I am taking your advice fully delete the egr and install a new up pipe. Thanks for the discount on shipping from W C fabrication . This might be a challenge but with your videos I think its possible
Just had to do mine on my LBZ I was running tune 5 and it was leaking and caught my fire wall fabric on fire.
same thing happened to me
I have 2011 gmc lml I have bought egr delete kit the kit did not have coolant line directions
Watched almost all your videos been a fan thru you dirtymax fix...got a 2011 duramax def fluid emissions system has gone out 3 times since I got the truck,twice under warranty 1 time without and that's now,,going to do a full delete of the junk on my truck, had and problems I need to know About? Thanks for any advise.
I just had a [DPF and EGR] delete done on my otherwise stock 2010 LMM. The truck runs great, but the method was to use blocker plates on the up pipe and the cold side intake with the removal of the EGR cooler and valve. I may do some additional changes later as time/money allows, and I see that the EGR blocker plate is anchored to the engine block securely, so the up pipe cannot move/flex. My son-in-law has had the same setup from the same shop for at least 4 years now with no issues...so my question is this...how long does it take for the up pipe to fail typically? Am I safe waiting a year or so to do that replacement?
You should be fine man
Ugh, I have a blocker plate on mine.....20k miles........so the fix is an lb7 up pipe? What else should be done at the same time to save install money? Mine is a 2015
Got the big question of the day..... Why does the outlaw egr delete kit come with an up pipe and a blocker plate? Would the blocker plate go on the back of the cooler?
Not totally sure that makes zero sense unless you plan to do the uppipe at a later date you have a piece of metal to block the stock uppipe
@@TruckMaster CjwKCAiA45njBRBwEiwASnZT54fn24uC0Br8C68StqLSU6nMHvmqDWgwj4ItAJUxxlP1g32DcEOpoBoCbogQAvD_BwE I assumed that the plate it this kit was an egr blocker plate
So with a full egr delete what kind of software,tuner,combo did you need to function truck??
Iv spent a lot of money because of you lol but I got the y bridge and the uppipe! Love the looks of them. Keep up the great work!
+Jared Ritter much appreciated thanks for watching the videos man
Thanks Earl keep up the good work.
Myself and the forever truck will be up that way the 23rd
+Rustbelt Mechanic look forward to it
Is there a specific blocker plate used for where the egr cooler connects to the firewall? Looking into doing your full y-bridge egr delete on an lly, but need to address the hose and the blocker plate that was included in the first kit. Where can I buy these two parts since they are not included in the wcfab y-bridge kit?
Man I thought I saw your truck today it just like it just the guy had a light bar on the top of his truck
I am looking a buying a GMC Van that has a LGH Duramax. Can you tell me if there are any issues that I should be looking for when buying this van. It has low miles but lived in Alaska so it probably has some idle time I will assume. Any input is greatly appreciated. Love your channel. Keep em coming
Hello T.M. I realize this is an old post I'm reading but maybe you will answer my question.
I have an 04 lly. I want to put a blocker plate in between the up pipe and the stock egr cooler.
If I do this should I unplug the egr motor? Will the plate cause damage to the egr motor?
So the lb7 up pipe will replace the lbz up pipe? Do you have to block off what the egr goes to?
Does someone make a y bridge kit for people who can’t delete their egr?
Can someone explain to me if the EGR delete and the y bridge kit are the same thing or not? I'm confused on the matter.
Will try to make it out to the meet on the 23rd!
If I have the blocker plates and do the full delete do I need to get retuned. Running efi live
Would you say that all the stuff you have installed under your hood, really helps & is it all worth the $ spent? I have 121 miles on my 2006 LBZ, & other than the cat filter with adapter, fuel port work & the airdog pump, I havnt done much too my truck. It's been a great truck pulling a 34ft 4 slant gooseneck horse trailer, 28ft toy hauler & a 30ft bumper tow utility trailer. And I have a 6" fts lift with 35" mt tires.
I think the best money spent was intake, exhaust, Egr Delete tune and lift pump. Those mods makes all the difference
Blocker plate doesn't cause that... 7.3s had trouble with there bellows on the up pipes... Blocker plate it is .. path of least resistance
Agreed! Anyone with basic knowledge of the laws of physics can see that is waiting to blow apart very clearly.
Hey brother would you let me know what type of mirrors you have on your truck and where you got your front light to the manufacturer is
If I decide to do wcfab high flow bundle kit...would I still need blocker plates? Or just some sort of cover for any holes once I take out egr?
Do it right the first time. It’s not cheap and it’s not fun but this could’ve been avoided. Love you videos. I just bought the complete wc fab kit cause you haha.
Awesome man congrats your going to love it
I went with the 2” stainless steel up pipe instead of the lb7. Jason said for 20$ more. It’s a better pipe all in all.
Another good video. Thanks for taking the time to explain this. Have a good weekend
I love the videos. I would love to know where did you get those rims and were they expensive
I got a few questions about the egr delete and the down pipe
Shortly after a delete kit on 07 Chevy duramax I noticed my oil level was low and there was oil residue in the intercooler pipe. I was told the only thing it could be was a turbo oil seal leak. Do you agree?
Blow by from cylinders do a pvc reroute
LML (11-16) has different blocker plates locations that have proven reliable.
+BiGnEvS I will get more into that soon I’m doing a lml this summer
I would like to know if I should buy the block plate or the pipe 😬I am doing it soon
I have seen a few fail already...always do the up pipe. It is not that much harder.
Can I install an lb7 up pipe without doing an egr delete on my lly?
Are the bolts prone to breaking on the up pipe when you remove them? Just wondering if I should be prepared for more little stuff when I do the up pipe
Yeah they often break
I had to look where Perry, MI was...not too far. I’m in Chelsea
What would you do in California, I have a blocker plate (easy route to take off every two years), but not sure if I should put on?
I’m in the same boat. I was looking at the blocker plate as my only option
Yea same, I wish they made a up pipe that was reinforced to support a blocker plate. I have a lbz as well
You can. Lv cooler alone
What is the best egr complete kit
how typical is it for one/or more of the up pipe bolts to break when removing/upgrading? if one breaks, is it ok to run with 2 of the 3 for a few days until you can pull the turbo to remove the broken bolt?
i've done a PRO FAB intake tube/egr delete kit as well as downpipe and drivers side exhaust manifold(upgraded to LML manifold) and all the bolts have come apart without any trouble. im hoping when i do up pipes soon i wont have any issues.
08 LMM dmax here.
I had no problems with the top ones and I'd use a torch to heat the bottom ones up before taking them out. only one gave me trouble so I removed the manifold and fixed it. but my truck had only 50 thousand on it at the time might have more of a hard time with a higher mile or more corroded one
Hey man,
I have the lb7 and I’m starting to have the iconic injector issues. Especially now that you are workin in the shop, are you willing to do a video on injectors? Just some insight for us average joe DIY mechanics. I’m not looking for race HP, just injectors that are known for being bulletproof.
LB7 and bulletproof injectors are never synonymous just sayin... Best I've found is tune with a lower peak rail than stock and use bigger nozzle size to compensate for the needed flow at a lower pressure. Pressure is what kills the LB7 injectors quickly
Cool Truck
I got a question does a tuner erase check engine light after egr delete is installed thanks
Yes
4in or 5 in Exhaust????
That cat fuel filter is sexy lol
It's made by wix
I unplugged my EGR since I can't get the bolts free to put in a blocker plate (gave up). It should stay shut since I'm not running any crazy tune or boost levels.
BrianNC81 sayin unpluggin the egr on exhaust side should keep it closed on bypass valve?
BrianNC81 wonder if work on my LML since got a hole in bellos of my crossover on my egr cooler
Dwarf Zerker by unplugged I meant I disconnected the power to the motor the valve will stay closed.
I’ll be there. I know Alex and Aaron. Hopefully my lb7 is fixed by then. Have to do headgaskets and injectors 🤦♂️
+Jake Boise not cool good luck
is there a link you could share to get the wc fab y bride kit ad everything i would need to do the delete for my 2015 lml and where to get the lb7 up pipe or even a more higher performance up pipe
I’d recommend HSP diesel for the Lml the fitment is much better but you can call HSP and they will get you a price on everything you will need also apply my coupon code truckmaster it will save some money on the parts 👍
My EGR branch off completely blew off of the up pipe and I had 0 pounds of boost, soot and raw exhaust leaking into the passenger compartment nearly fucking killing me if I was in traffic😂
Bad ass truck man do I hear a 10mm stroker cp3 and a turbo upgrade and need more lol so cool man
Just deleted my 2016 with blocker plates but kept egr installed. I have an exhaust leak at those plates now. Got new gaskets and still leaks. Does the gaskets go towards the back or does the plates go between them? One side wouldn’t have a gasket
Gasket towards firewall up pipe
Mine did the same crap within 1200 miles of installing the blocker plate
Ok I've seen the bellows blow off on a friends truck and we did a parking lot repair with a piece of black pipe capped with ceramic exaust seal putty and a exaust clamp...we got him home....
My question is...I did the cat filter upgrade...but it feels like I'm restricted on fuel...and a couple of times I've had to prime the truck...am I sucking air in the assembly or the stock pump not strong enough to give me enough flow thru the filter....the gm style filter wasn't giving me trouble except for the stupid price...
Any thoughts?
Glenn Eskridge I had trouble with that too I'm still tryna figure that out.
You need fass fuel pump the cat is 2 micron filter stock is 5 micron more restrictive on cat but better filtration they work good together on my lb7
I have nicktane adapter. I had same problem losing prime. Fix was make sure the adapter is really tight. I thought mine was tight, was able to get 1/4 turn more.
Ashley wininger I was supposed to get a fass. Or a air dog for father's day last year....the wife is making me wait
Is that quick steel around that crack?
Is the 07 LMM the same