You need to replace those brake hoses in the front because once you stretch them they will start holding pressure in your caliper in causing the brakes to drag. 40+ years experience Watching rookie mechanics replace callipers over and over again when it was the brake hoses the whole time.😉
What is funny is i put raised spindles on my truck and the mechainc im learning from told me the exact same thing you just said. You experienced guys are awesome man!
Don’t forget to reinstall the cheap washers between the brake booster and the master cylinder. Lack of doing so causes the brakes to lock up. Ask me how I know. 😎
Just a couple of side notes: If you're doing this on a gasser 2500 there are two different steering gear boxes used. One is a three spline and the other is a four spline. I haven't found ryme nor reason for which is used on what I've seen both on half and three quarter tons. The easiest way to tell one from another without tearing stuff apart is the bolt pattern where the gear box mounts to the frame, take a picture of it and take it to the parts store with you. While everything is apart I would highly recommend changing the high pressure lines from the hydro boost to the steering gear box. Replace or modify the existing ones. There are several videos on how to replace the hose section where it's crimped to the hard line.
I started running the Kryptonite front end products in 2009. One thing to understand though - this is not a straight centerlink; thank God. The straight centerlink has the tie rod enter from the end and will not roll in a boosted launch situation. However, the scrubbing and bump steer I found to be unacceptable in a daily driver. I went to the kryptonite and it is less prone to rolling than factory but WILL roll. When my truck had a stock turbo it was solid as a rock. When I added fuel and a larger turbo I rolled the centerlink, even with the huge idler - hooked that sucker good but did not snap! I drove home. I added the DHD centerlink bracket and their lower control arm bracket; super super quality stuff! Now I launch harder than ever and nothing flexes but my ego. Lmao. Good video - keep it up.
Thank you these new posts It is so good to see you and your wife working on trucks together. Keep it up and I to will be supporting Wounded Warrior Project as well as Folds of Honor. MURICA!
I did this same job on my 05' about a month ago (besides the center link). I also did the lower ball joint's and lower control arm bushings, that was the hardest part of the job! I didn't realize how bad my front end was until I replaced it all. It drives amazing now. It wasn't cheap but I'm glad I did it and I know it's going to last a long time.
I put the Kryptonite kit in last summer and let me tell you, game changer. Off course, I did the psc steering box, pump, stainless lines, lbl hydropump, upper and lower steering. After all that. its like a sports car and turns with your pinky
Ive removed alot of kryptonite on the 14+ trucks. I wont install it anymore either. Cant keep anything tight, idler arm bearings failing in less than 2k miles, idler arm diameter far too large and hits frame prematurely reducing actual available steering angle. Not much experience on that 01-13 kryptonite stuff tho. Hope it holds up good for you!
I just put in an idler & pitman and center link and tie rods etc on my 2009 Hummer H2, it's so awesome having a super tight brand new front end again. Great video too I really appreciate you going through everything, Kryptonite is the best, you're the best for putting out this video thank you
I just had the entire Kryptonite front and package and control arm package with Bilstine shocks installed in my LMM. Made a world of difference. I spoke to kryptonite and they told me only a 1/2 pump of high-end synthetic grease in each of the zerks. They come pre-greased and they said definitely do not feel the boots up. They told me one pump in each of the zerks for the control arms.
Never, never blow brake dust around especially in a small shop area. Guys will get pissed if you're blowing that crap around their bay where they're working in a shop. Get a pan and spray it down with brake cleaner. Safety is first. In the case of brake dust, health safety.
I put them on my 01 Tahoe and LS 460 both front rotors warped within three months. Got Replacements free from RockAuto but went ahead and bought EBC for both vehicles and not have to worry about it again
@@redvette33 buy all your parts from the GM dealer in person not on amazon that shit they sell is junk. auto parts stores also sell china junk, Use all GM factory parts when possible when it comes to hubs and brakes. there is a reason 1 wheel hub at the dealer is 800bucks vs the 300 dollar one at Oscamly's auto parts.
@@BIG_CHEVY_BOWSKIE_MIKEgm parts say made in China right on the package. Just rebuilt the front of my dad's truck got all parts directly from gm cost around 1200. Got an aftermarket kit from Detroit axle for under 200 and everything looks the same as oem
Good video but no anti-sieze on bearing bolts. Apply loctite. And torque to spec. Impact guns stretch bolts making them weak. DO NOT WELD ON FRAME! It is tempered steel. Drill the holes as instructed.
Did I watch you use a hammer on all of the studs when removing the tie rods? And a pry bar to separate the ball joints? You are supposed to hit the side of the spindle to pop the joints. Regardless if you are replacing those components or not. You can mushroom the threads. But you made a good video.
The front end is MEAN!!! Kryptonite will be the next project after injectors, that just started to fail. As the Diesel Money saga continues. 😂😂 Thanks for the informative video.
This kit looks awesome!! I have a half ton 2001 extended cab with 5.3 but maybe in the future ill get a duramax 3/4 ton 4 door.. I have learned a lot on your channel.. Great job
🤘😎👍 I have this job on my list and who better to show it being done than *Truck Master* Cant stress enough how much the editing helps the usefulness of your videos. No long '3 min per bolt' videos that you cant skim back through. I will defiantly watch this a few more times to get it in my head and keep it up when doing the job.
The kryptonite hub assembly is same price as others ! Their prices are pretty average with beyond quality!!!!👍 my 2000 f150 4x4 is going to get converted to Chevy HD or a SAS
I was experiencing some of the same issues as far as clanking and I pulled up to a stop and check my hubs and man they were hot well doing differential seals and bearings and going to the Diffie first then onto the Kryptonyte upper lower control arms ball joints basically the whole kit this is gonna be a long one for me since I’ve never done it before but thanks to the truck master himself in these videos I feel I can tackle this one and not really sweat it too bad except for you know throwing out the coin on all this including upgrading the brake booster to LML since I have a 2001 LB7. Wish me luck fellas my babies gonna be in the shop for a little while and I’ll just slowly tear down and build up as me and my twin boys work on this. Well that’s it for me thanks again Trackmaster for all the information you put out there bud truly appreciated I’m off to do pricing now hopefully it doesn’t hurt me too bad🇺🇸💪🏼
I have those on my duramaxs. Complete steering components and upper control arms. All I need to do is get the wheel hubs. Because I’m going for 20x12 tis 544bm -44 off set
Thank god. Been waiting on a video to tell me how to install the bracket on the idler arm 😂😂😂 I’m doing full dual shocks, kryptonite upper arms, lower ball joints and full death grip front end with redhead steering box! Expensive but hopefully worth it!
What was the price range and all that for you David? I’m about to do the same exact thing and just haven’t priced it yet it just happened to me yesterday my front diff went out caliper seized up bearings are shot seals are leaking they got shit everywhere it’s a freaking mess my dog even pissed on my truck what else could go wrong but hey any info on that but I’d appreciate it
HOLY crap dude. You'll be able to drive through a tank with those parts. I rebuilt my factory setup w/ TTX Mevotech ball joints & outer tie rod, poly bushings & sway bar links. I have the larger 860 steering gear box... I also used MOOG idler arm, pitman arm, and problem solver inner tie rod w/ kryptonite sleeves. Basically it's upgraded factory stuff. I'm running stock geometry suspension from z71 w/ 5100 Bilstein's. I'm off-road weekly and haven't had the SLIGHTEST issue in 30k miles. Unless you're building something heavily modified, like a pre-runner for Baja or something... I'd say factory would handle most standard off-road use. My only regret is not just buying the built up tie rods instead of sleeving factory ones. Wasn't much more $$ to buy the upgraded rods. Also I'd rather have a pressed in ball-joint as... my biggest enemy off-road is rattling. It has a tendency to rattle bolts loose. I use locking compound and grease pen to witness mark them so I can do visual inspections to make sure nothing rattled loose. Although, I must say an impressive list of upgrades no doubt.
great video. I have a 2011 Silverado 2500HD LML. I upgraded to Kryptonite. Upper and Lower Ball joints and centrelink and tie rods. best upgrade ever. But the problem I have been having is I had a dealership change my steering gear as I was busy with work and didnt have time. They ripped 3 of my ball joint boots and then told me I have ripped boots when I went to pick up the truck. I see Kryptonite has replacement boots. Are they easy to change. I only did my ball joints a year ago so I know i dont need new ones. The dealership ripped the 2 inner tie rod ball joints and 1 lower control arm ball joint. The dealership who did the steering gear said they had to drop the aftermarket stuff out to get the steering gear out. I call BS but either way they also put the inner tie rods on the wrong side of the centrelink. So pissed. And no they said its not there problem. But I will be doing the boot replacement myself. If you know of anyone who has replaced the boots or videos please send me the link. Thank you for your time and keep up the great videos. Very helpful.
I went with cognito for my front lift (2019 GMC denali 3500 dually) 20" fuel triton wheels and 35" nitto tires. Had several GMC (mechanic) friends recommend cognito products. Looks similar to Kryptonite products.
3/32 7018 rods are a good uphill and just go straight up, no zig zag, weaving. Clean the area to bare metal, then afterwards hit it with some spray paint.
Have you tried the heim joint tie rods?? I’m pretty happy with those over many other failed “upgrades”. I don’t think many can compare to the kryptonite rods though. Looking forward to reviews.
Well I’m saving for this even though today as I was backing out of my driveway with my 20’ landscaping trailer , she died and wouldn’t restart. So there I was stuck in the road but I primed the fuel filter but she died again . I finally got her to run so that I could driver back up and she died just as the last of the trailer cleared my driveway. Trying diagnose it may & I have several facts to work with . I just changed the fuel filter about a month ago as she was having issues and this is the first time something like this has happened. Man , and I just made some money selling some Jeep rim & tires along with a spare .
I need to replace the fuel filter housing and I ordered it but it won’t arrive until January 15 and in the process with the change of cold weather I’ve had to prime the filter cause she would start and then die after just idling . So , while I’ve been just priming it the other day the plastic bolt on the fuel filter housing broke off . I wanted to get an aluminum one but I needed the truck to run ASAP , so Oreillys had a box of 3 for $8 . Still gonna change it out to aluminum bolt . Thanks for the input . Now , the other bad news , I have developed a slight radiator leak but she’s not leaking into the engine , nor is it dripping onto the floor . What I’ve noticed since I bought my truck used and it’s deleted, is that they used a backer plate . I called the guys that Truck Master used to do his Y bridge and Up pipe install and they said for me to get the radiator under a load test to make sure it’s not going into the heads . AAAAAH ! Ok , Merry Christmas to all and Truck Master & Famila .
The kryptonite tie rods are fantastic, however.. their ball joints and studs leave a little more to be desired. the pitman arms might be beefier and thicker and that's great, but every time a pitman arm breaks that I've seen it snaps at the stud. A chain is only as good as its weakest link. And that would be it. Just some food for thought.
Moog pitman arms definitely snap at the stud and the parts house wants $120 for house brand pitman arms. And about the same for idler. If I buy kryptonite for twice the price and it happens again, that will really make me hulk out and be ugly. Doing the work replacing them sucks.
Putting their upper control arms on my 2015 Chevy Silverado, I have a 8” lift and 22x12 and 37’s. Gonna be getting 24x14 so the uca wil help the ride better.
About to finally install my kryptonite kit after this cup of coffee. Thank you Josh for all the content and how to videos Merry Christmas to you and the family. :)
I was super disappointed in the tie rods from kryptonite I got for my duramax. I had to replace the boots on both tie rods 3 times within 3 years. More trouble than they were worth. Hopefully a design change or something since I bought mine but I’ll never consider them again
Hey I broke a tire rod on my truck today doing a four-wheel-drive booster launch and I haven’t been able to get it off of the Steering Center Link any recommendations I’ve tried everything but vice grips I even broke a crescent wrench
What is the cost in parts you spent or one would spend on this. Be nice if you gave an idea so people get a ball park of what this type of upgrade will cost. I am looking into something like this but suspect its going to be couple thousand. Just an idea for future builds.
I’ve got the exact same kryptonite package on my truck. Works well, but squeaks a hella lot on every turn and bump a year later. If anyone wants to know....you can 4 launch with 0 steering wheel play.
I’ve now snapped 3 pitman arm bolts while driving over the last 6 years. I have an 08 LMM w/ a 9” Cognito lift and running 35” tires with Anthem 20x12 -44 wheels. The Cognito lift didn’t include any upgrade to the steering components. Do you think I’ll have any issues converting to the Kryptonite Ultimate Front End Package? Was also thinking about changing over to the Kryptonite Upper Control arms and their heavy duty upper and lower ball joints. Thoughts? Thanks for all the info!
You & I both forgot to buy & install lower ball joints from KRIPTONITE. I took it for granted that it would be in the kit but they were not & the website didn't even recommend that I purchase them before I checked out. End result 1 of my new front tires is slightly wearing I lill uneven. ( watch those new tires)
Wow looks Awesome!!! Have a 2011 Duramax and will be upgrading my front end for sure!!! What would you recommend for upgrading my fuel delivery system? Heard alot of horror stories about the CP4 pump causing many headaches not to mention costing a whole lot of cash if the pump ever implodes!!!! Thanks for your imput -and videos much appreciated!!!
That's a beefy front end now your lucky u got those camber bolts out on the upper a arm I spent 2 days this weekend re doing a front on 03 Tahoe had to cut out the upper bolts looks the same just bigger parts but this was my first chevy front end I've re done I'm normally a dodge guy but my friends drive chevys
You need to replace those brake hoses in the front because once you stretch them they will start holding pressure in your caliper in causing the brakes to drag. 40+ years experience Watching rookie mechanics replace callipers over and over again when it was the brake hoses the whole time.😉
You are right about that
What is funny is i put raised spindles on my truck and the mechainc im learning from told me the exact same thing you just said. You experienced guys are awesome man!
rookie mechanics? doing what there told to make money buddy lol. 9 times out of 10 gm calipers are in fact trashed...
@@trevercollins6910 9 out of ten huh?🤣
Good advise, thx
My truck has had kryptonite tie rods for over 200,000 miles and now it’s finally time to do the rest
when working on something with torsion bars, always support the lower control arm. and then release the pressure with the jack
Don’t forget to reinstall the cheap washers between the brake booster and the master cylinder. Lack of doing so causes the brakes to lock up. Ask me how I know. 😎
Great tip
Pushrod length must be controlled by a selective washer?
Can't figure out what you talking about ?
Just a couple of side notes:
If you're doing this on a gasser 2500 there are two different steering gear boxes used. One is a three spline and the other is a four spline. I haven't found ryme nor reason for which is used on what I've seen both on half and three quarter tons. The easiest way to tell one from another without tearing stuff apart is the bolt pattern where the gear box mounts to the frame, take a picture of it and take it to the parts store with you.
While everything is apart I would highly recommend changing the high pressure lines from the hydro boost to the steering gear box. Replace or modify the existing ones. There are several videos on how to replace the hose section where it's crimped to the hard line.
So from 99-06 chevy classic 1500 have 2 different stearing boxes?
@@eduardomartinez8944
Yes there are two.
I started running the Kryptonite front end products in 2009. One thing to understand though - this is not a straight centerlink; thank God. The straight centerlink has the tie rod enter from the end and will not roll in a boosted launch situation. However, the scrubbing and bump steer I found to be unacceptable in a daily driver. I went to the kryptonite and it is less prone to rolling than factory but WILL roll. When my truck had a stock turbo it was solid as a rock. When I added fuel and a larger turbo I rolled the centerlink, even with the huge idler - hooked that sucker good but did not snap! I drove home. I added the DHD centerlink bracket and their lower control arm bracket; super super quality stuff! Now I launch harder than ever and nothing flexes but my ego. Lmao. Good video - keep it up.
Thank you these new posts It is so good to see you and your wife working on trucks together. Keep it up and I to will be supporting Wounded Warrior Project as well as Folds of Honor. MURICA!
👍🇺🇸
You talked me into it! Thank you! Great video, you lay on concrete just like real people do!
I did this same job on my 05' about a month ago (besides the center link). I also did the lower ball joint's and lower control arm bushings, that was the hardest part of the job! I didn't realize how bad my front end was until I replaced it all. It drives amazing now. It wasn't cheap but I'm glad I did it and I know it's going to last a long time.
It’s definitely makes a world of difference
I have a 05 thanks for advice did you purchase from Kryptonite
@@ritome011 yes I did
@@highdesertjohn .... How much did it cost you?
How much ??
I put the Kryptonite kit in last summer and let me tell you, game changer. Off course, I did the psc steering box, pump, stainless lines, lbl hydropump, upper and lower steering. After all that. its like a sports car and turns with your pinky
Ive removed alot of kryptonite on the 14+ trucks. I wont install it anymore either. Cant keep anything tight, idler arm bearings failing in less than 2k miles, idler arm diameter far too large and hits frame prematurely reducing actual available steering angle. Not much experience on that 01-13 kryptonite stuff tho. Hope it holds up good for you!
Definitely agree with you on the front end upgrade parts 👍🏼
THANK YOU!! Its been such an impossible pursuit to find some good quality, truly AMERICAN MADE products like these
I just put in an idler & pitman and center link and tie rods etc on my 2009 Hummer H2, it's so awesome having a super tight brand new front end again. Great video too I really appreciate you going through everything, Kryptonite is the best, you're the best for putting out this video thank you
I’m thinking about doing the same with my 2008 H2. Hope everything holds up well for you man
I wanted to update you everything's still great the front end is awesome all the parts are operating as designed @@DannyDonnatelli
How's the kryptonite still holding? And how's the performance and quality? Thanks
Kryptonite should add production CV joints
I just had the entire Kryptonite front and package and control arm package with Bilstine shocks installed in my LMM. Made a world of difference. I spoke to kryptonite and they told me only a 1/2 pump of high-end synthetic grease in each of the zerks. They come pre-greased and they said definitely do not feel the boots up. They told me one pump in each of the zerks for the control arms.
Thanks
Thanks a lot now I have to do some work on my old lb7
Never, never blow brake dust around especially in a small shop area.
Guys will get pissed if you're blowing that crap around their bay where they're working in a shop. Get a pan and spray it down with brake cleaner. Safety is first. In the case of brake dust, health safety.
Very good point
@@TruckMaster the above post is ridiculous. The few brake jobs with dust you do in your garage wont do shit to your health.
Creeping death dust
I put that booster on my truck 2 years ago, best thing i did . Improved the brake feel 100%
Does anyone have a serial number for that booster. I was pricing them from the GM dealer and it's like a $800 part😮
@@rizerchris i think ebay has ac delco ones for $360.
I wouls recommend putting Power Stop brake rotors and Pads. Drilled and slotted work well.
I put them on my 01 Tahoe and LS 460 both front rotors warped within three months. Got Replacements free from RockAuto but went ahead and bought EBC for both vehicles and not have to worry about it again
@@redvette33 buy all your parts from the GM dealer in person not on amazon that shit they sell is junk. auto parts stores also sell china junk, Use all GM factory parts when possible when it comes to hubs and brakes. there is a reason 1 wheel hub at the dealer is 800bucks vs the 300 dollar one at Oscamly's auto parts.
Drilled and slotted are noisy.
@@BIG_CHEVY_BOWSKIE_MIKEgm parts say made in China right on the package. Just rebuilt the front of my dad's truck got all parts directly from gm cost around 1200. Got an aftermarket kit from Detroit axle for under 200 and everything looks the same as oem
Olight flashlights are great! High quality and they last a long time on the rechargeable battery! Its very cool how they recharge.
Just ordered all the kryptonite stuff for my 06. Glad to see it installed
I have one of those S1R BATON flash lights it's the best little flashlight I have bought
They are so bright
I know you made that look WAYY easier than it was, lol good video man I’m about to rebuild the front end on my 04.5.
Thanks 😂
Good video but no anti-sieze on bearing bolts. Apply loctite. And torque to spec. Impact guns stretch bolts making them weak. DO NOT WELD ON FRAME! It is tempered steel. Drill the holes as instructed.
Can someone Sponsor this guy with a lift even if it’s just a floor lift a picture up a few feet show the guy some love
👍👍
How you can tell someone is from the north... the amount of anti seize used.
😂
Yea I’m in MS and I’ve never used it and never had a problem
@@Robrt32 Dose MS stand for Mark Snider !?! 👊🤠🤙 🐓
Did I watch you use a hammer on all of the studs when removing the tie rods? And a pry bar to separate the ball joints? You are supposed to hit the side of the spindle to pop the joints. Regardless if you are replacing those components or not. You can mushroom the threads. But you made a good video.
The front end is MEAN!!! Kryptonite will be the next project after injectors, that just started to fail. As the Diesel Money saga continues. 😂😂 Thanks for the informative video.
Oh boy! Them injectors will get ya every time 😂
How can ya tell when they start to fail ?
Truck masters pls go look at dirt king cam kit it’s the final piece to a bulletproof front end
👍
I just added the dirt king cams to my LMM. It wouldn`t hold alignment, camber/caster. I really hoping it works!
The studs on the hydro boost are left hand or reverse thread pitch. And torque the wheel bearings for longer life. Rest was great
This kit looks awesome!! I have a half ton 2001 extended cab with 5.3 but maybe in the future ill get a duramax 3/4 ton 4 door.. I have learned a lot on your channel.. Great job
🤘😎👍 I have this job on my list and who better to show it being done than *Truck Master*
Cant stress enough how much the editing helps the usefulness of your videos. No long '3 min per bolt' videos that you cant skim back through. I will defiantly watch this a few more times to get it in my head and keep it up when doing the job.
Thanks Aaron I really appreciate it
Don't watch them "defiantly" man! lol, but yes, I was thinking the same in Thanks for not wasting time showing the BS
The kryptonite hub assembly is same price as others ! Their prices are pretty average with beyond quality!!!!👍 my 2000 f150 4x4 is going to get converted to Chevy HD or a SAS
I was experiencing some of the same issues as far as clanking and I pulled up to a stop and check my hubs and man they were hot well doing differential seals and bearings and going to the Diffie first then onto the Kryptonyte upper lower control arms ball joints basically the whole kit this is gonna be a long one for me since I’ve never done it before but thanks to the truck master himself in these videos I feel I can tackle this one and not really sweat it too bad except for you know throwing out the coin on all this including upgrading the brake booster to LML since I have a 2001 LB7. Wish me luck fellas my babies gonna be in the shop for a little while and I’ll just slowly tear down and build up as me and my twin boys work on this. Well that’s it for me thanks again Trackmaster for all the information you put out there bud truly appreciated I’m off to do pricing now hopefully it doesn’t hurt me too bad🇺🇸💪🏼
I have those on my duramaxs. Complete steering components and upper control arms. All I need to do is get the wheel hubs. Because I’m going for 20x12 tis 544bm -44 off set
Great way to wreck bearings. Always torque them down and not gun them next time.
I never had a problem
11:28 the center link you took out looks exactly the same as the ones for the suvs yet they say their center link won’t fit
I run kryptonite on the front end of my 07 lbz, best investment I could of made running 33’s
Thank god. Been waiting on a video to tell me how to install the bracket on the idler arm 😂😂😂 I’m doing full dual shocks, kryptonite upper arms, lower ball joints and full death grip front end with redhead steering box! Expensive but hopefully worth it!
What was the price range and all that for you David? I’m about to do the same exact thing and just haven’t priced it yet it just happened to me yesterday my front diff went out caliper seized up bearings are shot seals are leaking they got shit everywhere it’s a freaking mess my dog even pissed on my truck what else could go wrong but hey any info on that but I’d appreciate it
Ive done a steering gear box by myself while it was raining outside on my 2008 3500. No bueno
I have never had a problem with my front end, why do they fail? Then I watch how you drive and now I know why you need this!
If your not breaking parts, your not making power, OR having fun!
I so wish I knew how to do this stuff
It's not very difficult to do, you just need the tools
And a place to do the work.
HOLY crap dude. You'll be able to drive through a tank with those parts. I rebuilt my factory setup w/ TTX Mevotech ball joints & outer tie rod, poly bushings & sway bar links. I have the larger 860 steering gear box... I also used MOOG idler arm, pitman arm, and problem solver inner tie rod w/ kryptonite sleeves. Basically it's upgraded factory stuff. I'm running stock geometry suspension from z71 w/ 5100 Bilstein's. I'm off-road weekly and haven't had the SLIGHTEST issue in 30k miles. Unless you're building something heavily modified, like a pre-runner for Baja or something... I'd say factory would handle most standard off-road use. My only regret is not just buying the built up tie rods instead of sleeving factory ones. Wasn't much more $$ to buy the upgraded rods. Also I'd rather have a pressed in ball-joint as... my biggest enemy off-road is rattling. It has a tendency to rattle bolts loose. I use locking compound and grease pen to witness mark them so I can do visual inspections to make sure nothing rattled loose. Although, I must say an impressive list of upgrades no doubt.
great video. I have a 2011 Silverado 2500HD LML. I upgraded to Kryptonite. Upper and Lower Ball joints and centrelink and tie rods. best upgrade ever. But the problem I have been having is I had a dealership change my steering gear as I was busy with work and didnt have time. They ripped 3 of my ball joint boots and then told me I have ripped boots when I went to pick up the truck. I see Kryptonite has replacement boots. Are they easy to change. I only did my ball joints a year ago so I know i dont need new ones. The dealership ripped the 2 inner tie rod ball joints and 1 lower control arm ball joint. The dealership who did the steering gear said they had to drop the aftermarket stuff out to get the steering gear out. I call BS but either way they also put the inner tie rods on the wrong side of the centrelink. So pissed. And no they said its not there problem. But I will be doing the boot replacement myself. If you know of anyone who has replaced the boots or videos please send me the link. Thank you for your time and keep up the great videos. Very helpful.
You need a guy like me with 25 years experience tinting windows to take care of those purple windows which is the cause from using cheap window film
I went with cognito for my front lift (2019 GMC denali 3500 dually) 20" fuel triton wheels and 35" nitto tires. Had several GMC (mechanic) friends recommend cognito products. Looks similar to Kryptonite products.
I replaced my entire front end with all contigo 2 years ago, no issues.
Can you get away for some time without doing that weld? I don’t own nor am I good with a welder I may drill holes but I don’t know yet
3/32 7018 rods are a good uphill and just go straight up, no zig zag, weaving. Clean the area to bare metal, then afterwards hit it with some spray paint.
Truck Master, Wish you were closer to the PNW so you could help me do this to my LMM. Great video. Thanks a lot!
TNKS
So is this booster better than my stock lmm booster ? I know it’s better than my lly or my lbz
Forgot some fresh backing plates for your bearings. Missing those will mess with the preload on the hub bearings.
I cant stand when people say to watch till the end. Whenever that is said, i make sure NOT to watch that far into the video.
Well thanks for the view at least 😂👍
Have you tried the heim joint tie rods?? I’m pretty happy with those over many other failed “upgrades”. I don’t think many can compare to the kryptonite rods though. Looking forward to reviews.
I really want to do all this on my lbz as well all that stuff is so expensive though
Well I’m saving for this even though today as I was backing out of my driveway with my 20’ landscaping trailer , she died and wouldn’t restart.
So there I was stuck in the road but I primed the fuel filter but she died again . I finally got her to run so that I could driver back up and she died just as the last of the trailer cleared my driveway.
Trying diagnose it may & I have several facts to work with . I just changed the fuel filter about a month ago as she was having issues and this is the first time something like this has happened.
Man , and I just made some money selling some Jeep rim & tires along with a spare .
Fuel filter housing letting air into system
I need to replace the fuel filter housing and I ordered it but it won’t arrive until January 15 and in the process with the change of cold weather I’ve had to prime the filter cause she would start and then die after just idling .
So , while I’ve been just priming it the other day the plastic bolt on the fuel filter housing broke off .
I wanted to get an aluminum one but I needed the truck to run ASAP , so Oreillys had a box of 3 for $8 .
Still gonna change it out to aluminum bolt .
Thanks for the input .
Now , the other bad news , I have developed a slight radiator leak but she’s not leaking into the engine , nor is it dripping onto the floor .
What I’ve noticed since I bought my truck used and it’s deleted, is that they used a backer plate .
I called the guys that Truck Master used to do his Y bridge and Up pipe install and they said for me to get the radiator under a load test to make sure it’s not going into the heads . AAAAAH !
Ok , Merry Christmas to all and Truck Master & Famila .
That front end is BEAST! Thanks for the stellar content 😀🤘
Awesome! Thanks
Another awesome and detailed video!! Great job Josh! Air Assault!
🇺🇸🇺🇸
How much was everything all together my man. My truck is in such bad bad need of all these parts
what's the part number on the hydro brake booster?
That's some good looking iron under there.
The kryptonite tie rods are fantastic, however.. their ball joints and studs leave a little more to be desired. the pitman arms might be beefier and thicker and that's great, but every time a pitman arm breaks that I've seen it snaps at the stud. A chain is only as good as its weakest link. And that would be it. Just some food for thought.
Moog pitman arms definitely snap at the stud and the parts house wants $120 for house brand pitman arms. And about the same for idler. If I buy kryptonite for twice the price and it happens again, that will really make me hulk out and be ugly. Doing the work replacing them sucks.
What sucks is their massive increase in prices. Just selling the name now.
I bought my last GM front end 2 decades ago Blue Oval all the way
Putting their upper control arms on my 2015 Chevy Silverado, I have a 8” lift and 22x12 and 37’s. Gonna be getting 24x14 so the uca wil help the ride better.
Thank you for your service to our country and our freedom in the 101st!!
About to finally install my kryptonite kit after this cup of coffee. Thank you Josh for all the content and how to videos Merry Christmas to you and the family. :)
Great video! You made that look easy...
I was super disappointed in the tie rods from kryptonite I got for my duramax. I had to replace the boots on both tie rods 3 times within 3 years. More trouble than they were worth. Hopefully a design change or something since I bought mine but I’ll never consider them again
No power BJs ?? Great video. Well Done. 👏👏
A lucky couple! His and hers diesels. Awesome!
Can you provide a part number or a link for the break booster
Zone makes sum good control arms, made right here in Michigan too..
I had no idea zone makes parts in MI that’s cool
@@TruckMaster
Zone shows up at the blessing of the Jeeps every year up in Mesick. Promoted by Cadillac Jeepers.
Zone control arms are junk. I had some one a lml duramax and I had one snapped, after that I saw many snapped uca from zone....
Nice using anti seize on everything! I do the same, because you know it isn't going to be the last time taking it apart! Lol
Definitely love that stuff
Hey I broke a tire rod on my truck today doing a four-wheel-drive booster launch and I haven’t been able to get it off of the Steering Center Link any recommendations I’ve tried everything but vice grips I even broke a crescent wrench
@@outlawjr7799 only thing I would say to to is heat it up.
He got some lessons from silent mike!
What is the cost in parts you spent or one would spend on this. Be nice if you gave an idea so people get a ball park of what this type of upgrade will cost. I am looking into something like this but suspect its going to be couple thousand. Just an idea for future builds.
I just bought the front front end package so the entire front end for my 2500 and it was almost 1700 out the door
Nice install, no doubt it’s safer. Now, it’s time to fix the girl’s interior!
Definitely in the works
But it's still a ball in socket. The tie Rods are just thicker. When the joint wears out its no good.
I like the kryptonoite and the cognito control arms. I’m running the cognitos right now.
I run kryptonite on my duramax swapped h2 hummer and 2011 lml love their products
Awesome ride man
Hey quick question does kryptonite make products for 2004 z71 gmc 1500?
@@marvinserrano8420 they make some 1/2 ton stuff
I’ve got the exact same kryptonite package on my truck. Works well, but squeaks a hella lot on every turn and bump a year later. If anyone wants to know....you can 4 launch with 0 steering wheel play.
Grease it lol
That front end is badass you have me wanting to do so much to my lmm i love it thanks again for your time and the awesome videos
Thanks
Got my upper control arms, lower balljoints, new gearbox and deathgrip front end just have to install it lol
No more torque steer or broken tie rods on them 4 wheel drive boosted launches for sure.
Roger that
I’ve now snapped 3 pitman arm bolts while driving over the last 6 years. I have an 08 LMM w/ a 9” Cognito lift and running 35” tires with Anthem 20x12 -44 wheels. The Cognito lift didn’t include any upgrade to the steering components. Do you think I’ll have any issues converting to the Kryptonite Ultimate Front End Package? Was also thinking about changing over to the Kryptonite Upper Control arms and their heavy duty upper and lower ball joints. Thoughts? Thanks for all the info!
no way i can remember all dat lol, im taking my truck somewhere
Should’ve done grade 8 bolts all around
Put a BOV from turbo smart on that duramax and kill that turbo bark before it kills your turbo.
You & I both forgot to buy & install lower ball joints from KRIPTONITE. I took it for granted that it would be in the kit but they were not & the website didn't even recommend that I purchase them before I checked out. End result 1 of my new front tires is slightly wearing I lill uneven. ( watch those new tires)
Great video as always!!!!
👍 thanks
@@TruckMaster you the man Josh!
Sweet video thanks for showing in depth installs
Bluefuel flashlights at Napa are my favorite. for $30
It looks like you guys are doing it right.
Nice.
SUBSCRIBED!
I was today years old when I realized brake booster goes off the power steering. And I’ll admit that. 😮
When is there going to be a cool front bumper like ol red
Excellent work.
Wow looks Awesome!!! Have a 2011 Duramax and will be upgrading my front end for sure!!! What would you recommend for upgrading my fuel delivery system? Heard alot of horror stories about the CP4 pump causing many headaches not to mention costing a whole lot of cash if the pump ever implodes!!!! Thanks for your imput -and videos much appreciated!!!
Just did kryptonite front end on my lly last week. You put driver side tie rod in backwards, the notched side is supposed to face the outside.
alpharex now make some badass headlights for the cateye just ordered a set for mine
That's a beefy front end now your lucky u got those camber bolts out on the upper a arm I spent 2 days this weekend re doing a front on 03 Tahoe had to cut out the upper bolts looks the same just bigger parts but this was my first chevy front end I've re done I'm normally a dodge guy but my friends drive chevys
Yikes
Yeah we didn't have gas the use the cutting torch so we had to sawazw it off and snap the bolts @@TruckMaster
You should’ve painted those beautiful wheel bearing assemblies before slap them on.