@@420PeterGriffinyou're wrong man. I have an entire junkyard full of square body's from the mid to late 70s that came with factory "GM Corporate Blue" painted engines. My best friend in high school got his grandpa's 77 c10 pickup that was bought new off the lot...he got it when he turned 16, it had 36k miles and the engine looked brand new....it was painted gm blue from the factory. He still has it and I actually rebuilt the factory Q jet last summer and it still has most of the factory blue paint on the block. It still only has 76k miles.
Something I have learnt that might help you Drag racers don't use the vacuum advance on Distributors its for economy. Hope this helps. Nice engine instant throttle response is that a double pumper carburettor ?? 😅😅😅🎉🎉🎉😅😅
Stock cam and distributor is a tooth off and the thing is way over carbed see it shoot the raw fuel out that didn't get burned besides if that POS Holley keeps over feeding you will wash the cylinders and the rings will never seat that is no way to get the rings to seat and do a proper 500 mile break in anyway when it smokes like a train and runs like a dog remember this comment and the break in for not just the cam but the rest of it as well the old guys say to break it in like your gonna run it so there ya go are you gonna run it in short blips like that I assume not don't baby it but also have the right size carb on it as well that looks like monster on there take it off
The cam is slightly bigger than stock but more or less is, yes it’s not timed properly yet just waiting for a pointer so it can be done exactly. Would it not shoot out flames anyways with it being such short headers ? I agree on the carb it needs to be swapped, the double pumper carb came off of a drag car and we only used it to start it up for a minute and show it running, not to keep it on. Anyways thanks for the advice, Im going to get the corrections done and get the proper carb on there.
When it comes to timing don't worry about base timing focus on total timing of about 34 degrees btdc at about 2500 rpms all in set the distributor up to do that like I said base timing is nothing it's a baseline as long as it starts well and sounds happy base timing can be 22 or 25 deg it doesn't matter to get the best performance and best fuel mileage curve the distributor and get total timing in fast it will run great make sure you have good ignition components module cap rotor coil wires plugs etc and you won't have any problems with it more guys have said oh I need a new carburetor when it was all ignition issues and I've seen many hei distributors with stuck advance mechanisms too so many people leave so much on the table by not doing this basic stuff it's amazing it should like octane boost and w out it almost ping but not quite depending on compression ratio
Yep going to change out the old plugs anyway, one cylinder seems to be not burning as much as the others or it is out because the header has not got the colour like the rest. Could be the plug, wire or anything so I will probably end up buying new wires. It’s not been touched in a while so next time we get time we’ll have a play with the distributor to get it perfect 👍
I love how everybody likes to act like they know what they’re talking about, like dude just put the motor together let him fine-tune it and stuff before you dog on em. He’s probably just excited to have it together and running at this point.
Yeah, 90° not 180° or backwards, he can just move the wires, it will get there. I hope it is just timing and not a real valve problem. The pumps on that carb could nead a different cam. Is this the first crank up? He has no load on that engine, just the flywheel, I would just let it Idol, no revving at all.
What goes into something like this? I wanna make my 97 Tahoe have more power but I have no idea where to begin and I don’t want to blow it up at the same? Please help
Man I don't get running an engine with no torque converter.. Backfiring and popping. Yea buddy, sounds great! Put some real headers on that thing boss!😂😂
Don’t get me wrong I still like your old 350s but LS is the best far as horsepower you ain’t gonna get 300 out of that on the stand there but my extended cab 5.3 runs hard.
For those of you freaking out about the distributor: Do you see the engine in the car? NO! You have to remove it anyway when you install it or you will crack the cap!
To each their own. Its a motor, yep gets loud when you jam throttle. Could sound better, could sound worse. Can i really decipher anything from that, no. Seems low compression based on how slow idle settles down..
I’ll check both, oil pressure is fine and I’ll check the valve lash. I’ve heard on these models too the dipstick can catch the crank and make a noise too.
I have rebuilt 350's - 402's - 454's and now 1 - 383 and a 385 which is the 350-block bored 40 over so I would say I don't see any more future for me to rebuild any 350 when the 383 cost the same to rebuild as a 350 and the 383 has no comparison on power to the weaker 350. I only need a work truck engine so building race engines gets into big dollars but a truck engine for work and towing is no more in money to rebuild than the same uses for a 350
600 Is ok for you cruising your 302 mustang but it's been proven time and time again on the dyno 350s like 750s and the 400 makes it's best power with 830 cfm to 900. Ford may do fine but they don't make power and he painted it ford blue so I understand the mistake
I have the same . Set up until I came across this motor. Vacuum advance on the opposite. Side . I was wondering crazy. Yes brand new enjine . Build up.
Not gonna lie it looks good but painting it Ford engine blue is gonna eat up 20hp easy.
Some chevrolet engines came blue 😁
@@mattrogers4573none that were any good
@@mattrogers4573not any sbc
@@420PeterGriffinyou're wrong man. I have an entire junkyard full of square body's from the mid to late 70s that came with factory "GM Corporate Blue" painted engines. My best friend in high school got his grandpa's 77 c10 pickup that was bought new off the lot...he got it when he turned 16, it had 36k miles and the engine looked brand new....it was painted gm blue from the factory. He still has it and I actually rebuilt the factory Q jet last summer and it still has most of the factory blue paint on the block. It still only has 76k miles.
“Oh shit an engine….let me hit you with some engine knowledge because I pretty much invented the v8” -RUclips mechanics born in the 90’s 🤣
I gotta print this out and get it framed
@@mikedrop4421 Print away…send me 15% of any profit lol
@@bullfrog1807 deal 🤝 lol
Something I have learnt that might help you Drag racers don't use the vacuum advance on Distributors its for economy. Hope this helps. Nice engine instant throttle response is that a double pumper carburettor ??
😅😅😅🎉🎉🎉😅😅
Stock cam and distributor is a tooth off and the thing is way over carbed see it shoot the raw fuel out that didn't get burned besides if that POS Holley keeps over feeding you will wash the cylinders and the rings will never seat that is no way to get the rings to seat and do a proper 500 mile break in anyway when it smokes like a train and runs like a dog remember this comment and the break in for not just the cam but the rest of it as well the old guys say to break it in like your gonna run it so there ya go are you gonna run it in short blips like that I assume not don't baby it but also have the right size carb on it as well that looks like monster on there take it off
The cam is slightly bigger than stock but more or less is, yes it’s not timed properly yet just waiting for a pointer so it can be done exactly. Would it not shoot out flames anyways with it being such short headers ? I agree on the carb it needs to be swapped, the double pumper carb came off of a drag car and we only used it to start it up for a minute and show it running, not to keep it on.
Anyways thanks for the advice, Im going to get the corrections done and get the proper carb on there.
When it comes to timing don't worry about base timing focus on total timing of about 34 degrees btdc at about 2500 rpms all in set the distributor up to do that like I said base timing is nothing it's a baseline as long as it starts well and sounds happy base timing can be 22 or 25 deg it doesn't matter to get the best performance and best fuel mileage curve the distributor and get total timing in fast it will run great make sure you have good ignition components module cap rotor coil wires plugs etc and you won't have any problems with it more guys have said oh I need a new carburetor when it was all ignition issues and I've seen many hei distributors with stuck advance mechanisms too so many people leave so much on the table by not doing this basic stuff it's amazing it should like octane boost and w out it almost ping but not quite depending on compression ratio
Yep going to change out the old plugs anyway, one cylinder seems to be not burning as much as the others or it is out because the header has not got the colour like the rest. Could be the plug, wire or anything so I will probably end up buying new wires.
It’s not been touched in a while so next time we get time we’ll have a play with the distributor to get it perfect 👍
If you need anything hmu on messenger or something and I'll try to help you if I can
Alright thanks a lot I will do 👍
Why Ford blue
Distributor ain't in right
Imagine putting a motor in a car with that distributor facing the wrong way so the vacuum advance is right up against the firewall good job
He reving his newly painted motor nobody said he knew what he was doing🧐😂😂
HAHAHAHAHAHA! And no crackcase ventilation thats why the carb is running rich and shooting them flames
I would say There’s a pretty good chance this motor ain’t going in a car. Probably being used as a power unit for irrigation would be my guess
Who would want an engine in all the primary colours? Blue block, red 180° out distributor, and yellow plug wires...
Show us your motor build then..... We'll wait.....
I love how everybody likes to act like they know what they’re talking about, like dude just put the motor together let him fine-tune it and stuff before you dog on em. He’s probably just excited to have it together and running at this point.
Sounds like a stock low compression 350
it doesn't sound all that healthy.
@@aftermathwhite4955 Ford blue too..
@@CrazyHorse420 right
😂 bone stock
Idling at 4500
Awesome let’s go Chevy
Geez, distributor installation is top notch!😂
Revs quick with no converter 👍🏻
No it still won't rev, that's what's funny! What about a whopping 160hp maybe😂
You painted it blue!? Chevy orange man. Blue is fords color.
I love the way the distributor is installed 90 degrees off, may be hard to set timing this way in a car or truck.
Yeah, 90° not 180° or backwards, he can just move the wires, it will get there. I hope it is just timing and not a real valve problem. The pumps on that carb could nead a different cam.
Is this the first crank up?
He has no load on that engine, just the flywheel, I would just let it Idol, no revving at all.
Best 'block on the planet.
#Chevypower #Legend
Your distributor is backwards yo.
That's how you get the back fire/burbles
Rev the shit out of it.
Nice engine stand setup! I like it!👍
Thanks! 👍
Hope your not going to race that ? Lol good for ????¿ Don't give up !
Distributor is turnd 180 from where it should sit, vac advance should be facing carb
Thanks, nobody would have guessed, what a great eye.
Put the breeder on it so that you have correct vacuum.
Will do cheers 👍
They sound way more insane when they get around 11:1 but still mean
I hope that engine isn't just rebuilt !!!
Not just rebuilt, had been run 4-5 times before this video
Right, that's the worst thing you can do to a fresh rebuild.
Nice one! Look forward to seeing it driving some wheels!
They always sound tough until you bolt the torque conv. or clutch on.
Everything about this vidio is wrong .
Yes I agree 💯
What goes into something like this? I wanna make my 97 Tahoe have more power but I have no idea where to begin and I don’t want to blow it up at the same? Please help
WOW, great response time 😎😎😎😎🇺🇲 MERICA MUSCLE 🇺🇲🇺🇲
Man I don't get running an engine with no torque converter.. Backfiring and popping. Yea buddy, sounds great! Put some real headers on that thing boss!😂😂
Jesus Christ guys adjust something. I hope that is not your top of the line engine
That a good place for it 👌
Its too lean with those open headers
Or might need to dial the timing give the guy a break
Sounds like a claimer at hub of the valley
Sounds like a Wino on skid row
Don’t get me wrong I still like your old 350s but LS is the best far as horsepower you ain’t gonna get 300 out of that on the stand there but my extended cab 5.3 runs hard.
That is precisely what I expected a 350 small block to sound like through my shity ass cell phone. 🤣🤣👍
Almost sounds like a vacuum leak. Shouldnt take that long to come down from revving.
Now we have an engine stand!
Back in my day the engine stand was just the old engine.
For those of you freaking out about the distributor: Do you see the engine in the car? NO! You have to remove it anyway when you install it or you will crack the cap!
350 worse motor every made...best thing to do is change out all the GM made parts 4 aftermarket call jeggs r summit
To each their own. Its a motor, yep gets loud when you jam throttle. Could sound better, could sound worse. Can i really decipher anything from that, no. Seems low compression based on how slow idle settles down..
Should be breaking in the cam. 2500 rpm for 30 minutes.
Ford Blue Chevy Motor , I guess it works if you have a blue car or truck ,If not , it's just wrong .
Why ford blue? Not that it doesn't look good, but I could never paint a chevy in ford blue
If you're putting on lawn mower it should be fine ! No power there at all ! Start over don't install it !
Every engine sounds bad a** with open headders And no converter, bolted to the fly will
Does not sound happy at all. Redo your timing re set tdc and install distributor properly.
I've watched 3 rebuild video's.....
So far this is the only one that STARTED! Good job.....👍
It's a small block not a top fueler.Stop revving it like it is.
To bad a guy gets excited and doesn’t remember to do the before the rebuild run and dyno then a after. Those are the best lol
Do I hear a tick ?
Check the oil pressure or valve lash
I’ll check both, oil pressure is fine and I’ll check the valve lash.
I’ve heard on these models too the dipstick can catch the crank and make a noise too.
What the hell color is that?
Blue
@@SGB123 Just checking...thought I was seeing things.
They were painted blue in the late 70s and early 80’s, so it’s nothing too foreign
U have a vacuum leak
Cheers I’ll check it out 👍
Throttle all day. The crank doesn’t like slowing down without power and Gas. A 383 stroker idles so good.
I have rebuilt 350's - 402's - 454's and now 1 - 383 and a 385 which is the 350-block bored 40 over so I would say I don't see any more future for me to rebuild any 350 when the 383 cost the same to rebuild as a 350 and the 383 has no comparison on power to the weaker 350.
I only need a work truck engine so building race engines gets into big dollars but a truck engine for work and towing is no more in money to rebuild than the same uses for a 350
383 sounds better😊
The f you can hear the engines tapping or pinging. Dist 180° out. Bet the cams rip
You built it you can spirt throttle all day.
350 hp ?
Haven’t had it on the dyno yet but probably around 250 as it’s more or less stock (only big difference is a better cam)
Custom mounting plate on engune stand for sbc?
hot damn she's snappy!
You have the distributor in wrong!!!
Did painting it ford blue help it any?
Paint it orange not blue
The block was blue when I bought it
@@SGB123 oh well paint it orange if you want the reason why I said that because of it being a Chevy motor
@@ModelCarGuy yes I know I might well do
Whats that saying about lipstick on a pig? 🤔
It'll go in a 80s Caprice real nice.
Revving a Briggs and Stratton kept it in tune and let the neighborhood know I was keeping busy
Is that dist in backwards or is it just me ??
Why are u jacking the throttle like that.
Rotate that distributor to point the vac advance forward. And that looks like a set of under-manifold plug wires.
Cheers 👍
That sounds like a dooggg
The color scheme is not good…imo
It sounds like it's sneezing
Daily driver standards
I knew it wasn't a fosse engine
How much $ ill buy today
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Hope vac advance don't hit the firewall sounds peppy
Yes it needs moving round
Sounds like it its off timing
Don't sound right to me
Why is it ford blue 🤢
Is that ford blue?
SHOULD BE ORANGE NOT BLUE
The ford blue really brings it out
I know right but some others beat you to the joke
@@SGB123 sadly lmao, I mean it’s such a gorgeous color, I love old school fords, that engine is real nice though
Yes it is and is a nice colour than the usual Chevy orange I think
600 Is ok for you cruising your 302 mustang but it's been proven time and time again on the dyno 350s like 750s and the 400 makes it's best power with 830 cfm to 900. Ford may do fine but they don't make power and he painted it ford blue so I understand the mistake
@@YourMom-mq4zc 150 more cfm for 48 more cubic inches?? Ever heard of volumetric efficiency
Sounds awesome
Nice headers , they would be better if they were the same length.
Why, it's been proven that unequal length header tubes make more power.
sounds down a hole.
Blue Chevy???
It’s a loud one
Vrai musique❤❤❤
how much
Correct color any way!!
hell yeah
A piece
350hp?
Nice proyecto 👍 beatitud
I have the same . Set up until I came across this motor. Vacuum advance on the opposite. Side . I was wondering crazy. Yes brand new enjine . Build up.
Why is it popping? I don't think it's supposed do that.
Open headers
@B00TH05 I've built hot rods with open headers never had that problem. Hmm...
See ya painted Ford blue that why it's running so good ??😂 Hey your distributor is in backwards
I got a 350 in my suburban gmc 1985 with a brand new transmission
Seems like the distributor is 180 out that vacuum advance should be pointing up towards cylinders 2 and 4
Sounds quite, to quite ? Gotta put a big Popper Daddy Cam in that doggie?