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Why Does Everyone Ignore Tall Deck Big Block Chevy V8s?
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- Опубликовано: 20 май 2024
- The first 'real' episode on the channel, this is the beginning of a series where I will be trying to figure out why everyone ignores/disregards the 366T/427T tall deck big block Chevy. They are a medium-duty gas V8 commonly found in 2 or 3 ton grain trucks, dump trucks, generators, farm implements, and the like. Why doesn't anyone swap these into classic trucks? I guess we should find out.
Met a guy at the race track years ago that had a 366 in a nova. He had the heads ported to the max and a single plane intake on it. He told me he picked up 5 of them for 1000 bucks. Had a fairly rowdy cam in it and LOTS of nitrous. His exact words were, " they were cheap, and eat nitrous like a fat kid eats cake."
Yup
Long rods and a heavy piston you won’t get over 5k for long
@@DRNEGOLICIS, they would get you by long enough. And hell you could cam to shift at 5000. And spray like you are painting a house lol
Back in the day, early 80's, first year of the NHRA Super Comp class is when we are talking. We raced an altered called Danger Zone. If that tells you anything. Anyway, we would only use tall deck truck blocks. For multiple reasons. One, extra attention was paid when it was centered in the mold when cast and the iron was of a higher nickel content than any other passenger block. Second, the cylinder walls are thick. After a sonic check we could punch them .125". The tall deck allows for a longer connecting rod. Forged steel main caps. 427 tall deck with 427 crank, punched .125", 477 ci I do believe, aluminum Super Rods all that stuff. We'd buzz it to 8600-8700 rpm. 7.50 sec. car back in the 80's
The problem with using tall decks is you get a real goofy stroke to rod length ratio. They work good with a 4 1/4" or even a 4 1/2" stroke crank though. We were using standard deck 4 1/4" bore blocks and going .100 over IIRC which made them 482". With Howards aluminum rods and a Chevy steel crank we were going thru the traps at 8300 RPM's.
If memory serves me I think we were using .400" long rods for the 477. We did build a couple versions with the 454 crank that were just under 500cid. But the 477 was the nastiest of the bunch.
they can never compete with a 426 hemi
@@user-uf9to4iq6l I hope that you don't mean the Chrysler Hemi. You do know that the BAE, AJPE, Noonan, etc Hemis have nothing in common with Chrysler Hemi's, right? Other than valve arrangement. Nobody races a Chrysler Hemi, they really don't even make good performance engines, the valves hit each other during overlap with aggressive cam profiles.
@@fastone371 they share bore space, deck hieght, bellhousing, crank and cam centerlines along with most of the traditional geometery and design, yeah, the ports are bigger but they're pretty close to the original hemi including the deepskirted blocks with cross bolted mains.
Wow, thanks for all the comments and views! I did not expect to get this much positive reception for this video. Part 2 is on the way!
-Cal
Subscribed. Thanks
gratz on a video that seems to have taken off.
Don't waste the wave Man. The YT algorithm has a way of forgetting about you. Most new channels don't garner views like this. Do some shorts too.
@@RedEyedPatriot truth, ive been at it 6 years and have never had one take off like this.
I'm a ford boy but I worked on a fleet of 366s and I saw them make it to 400000kms driving a 4000 rpm on the highway unopened. Unbelievably reliable.
I like Mustangs and Mopars, but gotta respect them big block chebbies.
I seen many suck valves and blow pistons up and block is junk then
@@markrobinson4230I worked on a fleet of 25 and we had a single burnt valve and 1 that a guy cooked because of a blown rad hose.
The reason for the taller deck is to accommodate pistons with 4 rings vs 3 , causing a taller piston .
The tall deck 427s used to be desirable to racers looking for max performance with durability due to how robust the blocks are, this was before the aftermarket was so prevalent.
In 2004, I built a 427T +.030" and put it in my bus conversion hauler. Kept the 4 ring style pistons. I used some bowl ported 396/427 oval port heads with 100cc chambers for 9.5-1 c/r. Also used a 250*-260* XE Comp cam with good results. I still use the factory intake with 2 thermostats. I have an aluminum intake and spacers that I was always going to put on it, but it runs so good I never got to it. I run a 500 cfm Edelbrock with good results.
I made some 40" X 1 3/4" dia. headers and "H" pipe, and used a std. SBC/BBC Pertronix billet distributor and a std. BBC oil pump and shaft. I can see the wear pattern on the dist. gear is not in the middle of the gear, but I have about 250,000 miles on this motor with no problems.
It got 6.5-7 mpg when it was fresh, pulling 30,000 lbs. gross, and got 3000 miles to a qt. of oil, @ 3000 RPM all day long. That was 20 years ago. Had the pan off to check the rods and mains about 6 years ago and the bearings looked like brand new out of the box!
It needs to be freshened up now, as I can tell it's down on mileage and power a little, but it still runs good. Probably needs a valve job, new cam and lifters and a set of rings. Maybe this winter...
TWO thermostats? Why two?
When thermostats fail, they don' t open, which usually overheats the engine. I'm not a certified mechanic but it seems to me, the second thermostat is literally a backup, it basically sits in tandem. If one fails the other still allows the flow to happen. I happen to have one in a 22' box truck, Kodiak with a 5 and 2.
@@survidmt Run a Robertshaw type thermostat . They stay open when they fail. They are more expensive, but cheap insurance against engine failure.
The first stroker big blocks I can remember seeing that were above 500 cubic inches were built from these. They were highly sought after in those days. That was back in the 80’s.
It's a workhorse that is built for torque, strength, ease, drivability, economy & longevity.
Not economy lol
I have a 76 K20 Suburban that runs a nasty tall deck 427 that we pulled from an old C60 flatbed we had on the ranch. It was a bit more involved rebuild than the 396 low deck it replaced but was 100% worth it. At least its not another 454 like most guys just plop in.
I worked at a GMC dealership back in the late 80's early 90's and those motors were the 427 and 366 were used in UPS trucks and 3500 pickups and tow trucks. We use to buy the cores and use them in 1500 pickups and they ran great,11,and 12 second 1/4 mile times with no problems. All we changed was oil pump, cam,intake, distributor and carburetor of your choice. Those tall decks will run. By the way I recommend a 400 transmission and a 9" rear.. I really don't want to say how I know you will need my recommendation. LOL 😂 But you will thank me for it. 😊
@@johndcunninghamjr4111 Definitely need a T400 and a stout rearend.
All those farm tandems had them, sweetcorn & sugerbeets were hauled, lots & lots. Awesome engines.
My dad ran 366 motors in tandem dump trucks in the 70 and 80s until her retired hauling asphalt. What a work hose those 366s where! Brings back a lot of memories working on these with dad! Thanks for sharing!
Felt like I was the only guy in the world messin around with one of these lol, I’m in the same exact spot from using rock auto to cleaning everything, awesome keep the videos up👍
So cool! never heard of "tall deck big blocks" before. Can't imagine why people would not like these beefy engines
Standard passenger big block was 9.8" deck height and the tall decks were 10.2". At least the aftermarket blocks are. With the tall decks you can get upwards of 632" or better.
Dont use a 454 flexplate on a 427, 454 is external balance, 427 is internal balance. A flexplate from a old style 2 piece seal 350 sbc will bolt right on that 427. A regular 396/427 internal balancer is also needed. 454 is weighted. Im currently building a 427 TD with 6.535 long H-beam rods and forged dome pistons for a 9.8 deck 427. Be around 13.2-1 compression. Gonna turn mine 7500-8000 rpm with a big 274/282@.050 solid roller cam, BPE 316cc rectangle port aluminum heads, 2.30/1.88 valves and a Bowtie singleplane intake made to use a standard distributor. Also using a 1050 Holley Dominator. Should make well over 700hp NA. The deck is .400 taller than a 9.8 deck block. These engines were popular in the truck & tractor pulling world back in the day, seen a few blown, alcohol units making 1800+hp in pulling tractors. Also used in boat drags and Pro Stockers in the late 70s. Also mud bog trucks. They are stout. Definitly worh building. Buy an intake made for a tall deck and .400 long pushrods and thats pretty much the ticket. We built a 366 years ago just to kerp a drag car functional while the 454 was being repaired, with just a L-88 cam, a Tarantula intake, 850 Holley and 2 inch Hooker headers. Ran 7.50s in the 8th in a mid 70s Camaro with a 4000 stall & 4-56 gear. Shifted at 6000rpm. Bottom end was stock except for .060 overbore. Had closed chamber 215 casting 396 heads on it. Bolted right into thst camaro with room to spare. Headers fit no problem. Them blocks are thick as hell.
@thereluctantgearhead4544 That is an awesome build you've got going there. But I don't think this guy is going balls to the wall,I think he is trying to have some cheep fun with some discarded big blocks like a lot my fellow technicians did back in the day. But I got to say I am very impressed with your build. Sounds like it's going to be awesome.
How did you keep them from blowing up???My dad owned a chevy dealership in Illinoise when I was growing up in the 60s and I had access to all of them.I couldn't keep any of the big block chevys togeather for very long..they would throw rods through the block in an instant. I tried everything...A couple of my buddies had SS 396 chevelles they bought through my dad.One of them was an L78 375 hp and that car was wicked but it blew at around 9k miles.Thry ere not built nearly as tough as they should have been.
@@jimmillet1442Then you WERE doing something wrong....
If you can't keep a B.B.C. together, then you should have given up.
Forged crank 454 is internally balanced just like the others. Only cast steel crank 454 were externally balanced.
454 engines are all external balance. There was not enough room in the crankcase for the huge crank counterweights the factory would have to use. So they hang some weight on the flywheel and the harmonic balancer.
I used to drag race back in the 90's to early 2000's and exclusively used tall decks. From stock with the peanut port heads to all out stroked/long rod alcohol motors. Didn't care if it blew up because like you said, they were dirt cheap.
I worked at GMC truck dealer 1977/1982. Did plenty of long block replacement.GM did make a 454 tall deck big block as well. Did a few short block replacements on warranty. They would black hole a cylinder. Fellow mechanic had a 1969 Chevy Nova. He rustled up a complete 427(stock) and put it in his Nova. Ran like a truck.
I also have a 366 in a 1986 C65 single axle dump truck.... It has a Holley carb from factory and an HEI distributor.... School buses are also a good source for 366 engines... Bigger tow trucks can be found with the 427 , had one of those also
I worked on these way back. These are stump pullers. Yes, low rpm. Unless you update them. But I worked on both of these. Most were in dump trucks, or trash trucks. There is nothing wrong with these. I used to be blown away at some of them that had factory headers huge 2 1/4 primary tubes. Like SB block hugger headers. I worked on the later 454 and 427 Tonawanda late model versions. But I preferred the old school ones. You will not be disappointed with that 366 in a square body. Torque like a diesel. Man. Memories. Lots of valve stem seal replacements, snd and rod bearing replacements. Thats about it. They are very strong.
I am 62 years old. I have had several square bods.
I had a shortbed standard cab two wheel drive with a 4 speed and 350 in 1980 when it was brand new.
I had one in 2005 when it was old. I worked on those things when they were still under warranty at a chevy dealership.
I like the look and styling of the squarebody series. I like the styling of all the '80s cars.
The new cars are so much tighter no rattles, no squeeks, antilock brakes, air bags
These engines ran 400,000+ miles in HEAVY service, I'd love to see this one in a 3500 series dually.
Many were put in school buses.
Good points ! We would always grab those engines when I was building big block chevy's back in the 1980's because they had a steel forged crankshaft .
Oh Man, why not just restore the old 3-ton chassis? CLASSIC! The phrase "old grain truck" gives me shivers and memories about growing up on our farm. Love all those old trucks and implements. Thoughts of a 5-speed transmission with 2-speed rear end, or some combination like this.
Tall decks make for 4-ring pistons, long connecting rods, under-square operation, lower RPMs, and LOTS of torque.
Glad to see this. I can confirm that a standard distributor will work as long as you’re using the factory intake manifold. If you are using something else, the manifold will need to have spacers under it to accommodate for the extra deck height. And that will all make the distributor too short. The factory intake was designed to work with standard length distributors. The larger crank pulley fits in the 73 square body I’m working on just fine. Oil pan fits fine. I haven’t got a ton of running on it yet, but seems like a good upgrade over the old tired 350 it had. Exhaust is my last project to tackle. I’ve got a couple videos of mine running uploaded if you’re interested
You had me at squarebody and I stuck around for the big block tall deck talk. Good stuff so I subscribed. Looking forward to your future stuff.
Had a 366 in a 74 farm truck had a torque cam low rpm sounded really good at idle good engine still running today!
Rock on...! I had heard of them, but this is the first 366 I ever saw... Thanks for sharing... Keep up your awesomeness...!
I LOVE the tall deck big block Chevy engines. They can make decent performance when built, however as just good stock, basic engines, they are perfection for work as truck engines. One thing most people seem to forget is that truck engines are often not meant for top end when you are actually doing real work, they are meant to make great low end grunt and run all day under stressed.
409-348s , also great forgotten
Chevy motors!
Ah yes the original "W" big block Chevy with the cool looking valve covers!
Can't forget the Z11 427 "mystery motor" in the early sixties race impalas.
In high school we helped a buddy swap out a locked up small block for a 366 into his 2nd gen camaro. I honestly don't remember if it was a 2 or 4 barrel carb but he was very happy with with it and I remember it would peel the G60 belted tires forever..
BUILT 2 BOTH 366. BOTH ARE 330HP. STILL RUNNING AFTER 10 YEARS RELIABLE. THANKS FOR T HE INFO. 😊
427 version is what we used in the old days to make big strokers. 366 was a good source for steal cranks for 396 and 427. use to buy junk ones for cranks and 4 bolt main caps. Heads have huge diameter valve just like the truck 350. Use an intake spacer and you can run a car intake. No 454 flex plate it will nock it out of balance. . Use a big small block or 396 0r 427 flex plate .
The 366 set up with the right drive train will beat any other gas truck engine on fuel economy. The reason they don't have a MPG reputation is because they were in the Medium trucks and were paired with 5 speed manuals with the split rear end with 8.44 and 9.55 gears.
Swapping these with a 454 is an instant win at the gas station.
Like #402, symbolic! Back in the day, if you went out into the country in the Texas panhandle, you'd hear old truck motors like that running day and night through straight pipes, powering wells. Brought a tear to my eye. There was a saying back then: "the only substitute for cubic inches is cubic dollars." You could get a big block to turn 7000 RPM, but it would cost you a pretty penny!
Looks like the 366 block can't be bored to 427, but it's oversquare so you actually could stroke it without detriment. It all depends on how much you're willing to spend. You _could_ get over 500 inches with the right parts, but for my money it's the 8:1 compression ratio that could be adjusted with just a head swap and a cam. Just keep the stock rotating assembly below 5 grand to be safe. Aluminum heads and manifold will help a little with the weight too. IIRC, people are running BBCs over 10:1 on pump gas, but exactly how much is beyond my skill set.
I rebuilt a 366 to replace the 350 in my 1976 K20. I used the "domed" pistons, pocket ported the heads and put a Comp 252 High Energy cam in. I used the stock dual thermostat housing and intake manifold. I replaced the governed holley with a 600 vacuum carb. It turned out to have a lot more power than I thought it would. The original 350 got about 10 MPG. the 366 with some tuning got 13 MPG. This was with a 4 speed non overdrive truck with 4.10 gears. Looking forward to seeing what you do with these.
This is pretty interesting. Grew up playing in my uncles junkyard and always knew they were ‘truck engines’ but never gave them a second thought. 🦶🏾
Old school budget stroker... 366 block + 454 crank & heads = high reving 427 stroker. Very durable. Very powerful. Very cheap (overall considering what it would cost to build a 427).
Adding a decent cam and intake will give you a great low budget monster.
Looking forward to the build. Always looking for ways to build cool stuff from old farm trucks.
The engine in my 71 Chevelle is a tall deck mark IV block. Tall decks require a spacer between the intake and heads, and the deck is 0.100" higher. Otherwise, it's just like any other big block. Mine is a 30-over 454 with a 1/4" stroker crank, which works out to 489 CID / 8.0 L. 4 bolt main. lightened, internally balanced forged Crower crank. longer custom Crower rods. custom JE pistons (1/4" higher wrist pins). 10.28 to 1 compression ratio. World merlin heads with the biggest valves possible. True roller valvetrain. Offenhauser IR intake. Twin 1150 dominators. MSD 7ML2 ignition. Estimated 688 HP on 93 octane - no turbo, no blower, no nitrous. It has a high-volume Melling pump, a road race pan, twin remote Oberg filters, an external oil cooler, an Accusump, and a marine pre-luber. Including the braided steel lines, it takes 15+ quarts of oil. The nose of the car has been replaced with twin NASCAR radiators and 4 cooling fans to keep it from overheating in traffic.
I thought the heads were also different from factory, at least on the 427?? But either way, I know a guy that has a truck 427 in a 68' tubbed camaro. Has an M22 so its a 4 speed. Has 33 Thompsons on the back. Not sure of every specific ingredient but it has an 8-71 BDS blower and a 500 hp NOS fogger system. It will light those 33s up with a 4th gear roll on, no nitrous. Not sure what kind of clutch that is that can stand that.
@@timberslasher4899 all mark IV heads are dimensionally the same and fit both stock deck and tall deck blocks. Tall decks require the intake spacers. Internal dimensions vary - D port, oval port, combustion chamber size, valve size, runner displacement, etc. Odds are they never put D port heads on a tall deck "truck" block from the factory.
I love these tall decks, no small base circle cam needed, this block will clear a 4.5 stroke arm with very little clearancing
I have a 366 in my 65 c10. I love it, I can’t wait to see how yours turns out! 👍🏻
Very interesting video. I’ve got a 366 myself out of an old C60 that I was going to have rebuilt and put in my 85 one ton. Can’t wait for the next video.
Drove a GMC 366 flatbed. Would hall 5 cord of cedar blocks. It had a 5 speed with 2 speed rear. Loved that truck very dependable and it would scream.😁✌
My brother built a TD 427 with big piston dart top top and yes he machined a msd distributor to proper spec. It was built by component machine in Indy we put it in his mid 80's 2500 square 4x4 it was a fuc$ing beast!!!
Young Man FYI small block 400 and 454 used the same flywheel. They’re both externally balanced. All other Chevrolet motors are internally balanced. Good luck with your build.
I remember a story about these blocks being used in Top Fuel several years ago!
Not in Top Fuel. Nobody has run anything but aluminum block Hemis since the late 70s.
@@JeffKopis I think this was around the late 60's early 70's . I remember they were running out of Hemi blocks, Also using the blower on the truck block they had to make a custom intake spacer for the blower. Car ran reasonable to a Hemi but had a valve problem. So this was a sort of one off project.
There was a nhra top fuel SBC powered rail in the 80s he was leading points until the nhra decided to stack weight on his setup . He was absolutely dominant. @@JeffKopis
Fram is trash, use a Wix or Napa Gold(rebranded Wix) oil filter. I`m 66 and they have served me well. Daily is a 1991 C1500 350ci with 340,000 miles. Still running strong and does not burn oil. Oil changes every 3000 miles. Maintenance pays off. You can build that 427 into a screaming monster with a good cam and some port matching. You have a new sub Sir.
Excellent. Looking for part 2 video !
I had never heard of these. Been thinking I need a little more power in my '85 K10, and maybe I can rustle one of these up around here in the Southeast US. Thanks for making the video!!! Greatly appreciated...
Well, your about 45 or 50 years to late! I built a lot of them for racing they were really popular with the big inch Chevy guys 454, 468 or bigger! I just finished building one for a good friend of mine and we are almost done with a 78 short-bead pickup! that it's going in! I still have 2 of them that I raced for years and am getting ready to put them in an old, new car and go again! This one I just built is a 496CID at .030 over bore. we could have made it a 502 if we had board it .060 over, but the block was nice, and we wanted to get more mileage out of it! We can boar it .060 over next time! It has a new billet steel crank with a 4.250 Stroke! and just short of a 7" Rod! and a set of maxed out Dart Pro-One Aluminum Heads! The 366-T is not much good as it's a small boar! You can't bore it out to a 4.250 like a 427 or 454! But here's is the deal and why they were and still are sought after blocks for BBC's They are 4 bolt main high nickel blocks just like an HP 427 but what is so great about them is the deck of the block is .400 taller than a regular 427 or 454, now everyone knows that the 454 has a rod angle problem the 427 is perfect! But the 454 is putting a lot of side loading on the trust side of the piston and cylinder because the rod is too short for a 4" stroke! 427's are 3.750 stroke and are great just that way but if you want the toque of the 454 pulse the high RPM house power that would come with it if you had a longer rod to let it sing! It's almost like GM made the 427-T tall deck block just to order for the 454. So here is the deal, you take a 427-T Block, do all the machine work and line hone or check it, and boar it over to what you need or want! take a steel 454 crank and pistons whatever compression ratio you want, and most all Rod manufacturers have a big block chevy rod that is .400 longer than the stock rod! the pistons are for a standard deck 454 nothing special about the pin height just a good Forged Piston! You build it for whatever you're going to do with it? Drag Race, Boat Racing, whatever? You order a set of .400 longer pushrods, and they make a spacer plate kit that raises the intake manifold .400 above stock and the cam and all the rest is your choice! The 2 I have in my shop that are still running, one is a "Bowtie Block" with 4.500 boar cylinders and a big crank with a 4.500 stroke! It's a 572 CID. See GM knew what to do with the truck block! The other one I have is my favorite, it's a regular 427-T truck block I run aluminum rods (Never had any problems with them!) Drove it on the street! But! it's a 461CID .030 over 454, it makes over 900 HP on the Dino! Naturally aspirated with 1-1150 Holley Dominator, and it has a total of 500 HP of nitrous oxide, in 2 stages just for fun! ran it for 12 years never hurt anything! So that's it! I can show it to you! I have a lot of witnesses and people the lost to the car and engine! And I have Nothing to Gaine, I AM A FORD Guy!!! Born and bred! WHY? You Say? Because I know a great engine when I see it and race it! and I give a hole box of Kudos to the GM engineers for coming up with this combo! (o; I have early 66 Mustang Fastbacks a 68 Couger X-R7 70 Maverick and a 70 Torino and a few more. But I also have a 68 all original 3rd owner Z-28. Because I love driving it and the way it runs! Like I always say if you cut yourself off from a great car or engine because of the brand name? You will never know what you're missing! I mean really, when you get done building a car how many parts are actually made by Ford or Chevy? Think about it, Take Care, and Always Have FUN!!! (o;
I am currently running a 10.2 deck Dart Big M @572" in a 68 C10. There is no replacement for displacement...thanks for the BBC content
The 366 is tough to beat. I will happily swap one into my K30 whenever the 6.2 diesel quits.
The 366 blocks were used in early fuel Funny Cars. Jungle Jim, and Bruce Larson, among others used them until they went to Chrysler Hemis.
I put a 366 in my c20 when I was a kid. Ran great for years. Good fuel milage and pulled every thing I threw at it. I had a 2 barrel on it for a while and went to a Quadrajet but kept destroying drive lines and transmissions
The taller deck pushes your heads farther apart, and you need intake spacers ( you know that already), but also your headers will be a tad farther out, making these engines a bit harder to fit into a narrow engine bay.
I have a few videos talking about the tall deck bigblocks ya might be interested in. Ive been building them for decades.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 They do make for some really nice sleepers. LOL
@@johndcunninghamjr4111 Definitely a strong engine. Just look at what they came in stock. Some big ass trucks that haul a lot of weight. Extreme duty applications for sure. Never seen LS engines in C70-C80 dump trucks, grain trucks, tanker trucks, etc. Strongest GM gas engines ever built. I'd buy all of them I can find.
I've got the 305 V6 which I believe is essentially that family. '69 GMC C5500
There is also a 351 V6 that GMC made; and also a "702" V12 that was just two of the V6's connected end to end - two carbs, 4 heads, 2 distributors. The block may have been a single casting though. Back in the times where each division of GM had their own engineering departments and were set free to try novel approaches like front wheel drive units that took a Olds 455 and a TH400 trans that was reversed and connected to the flexplate/torque converter with a 2 inch chain; and two half shafts and CV joints to provide torque-steer free FWD. GMC ended up using this in their RV where FWD gave it a low, flat floor and made it easy to drive compared to box-on-frame RV's of the time.
Now GM sells us a Chevy Suburban/ GMC Tahoe/ Cadillac Escalade ESV that from 50 feet away you can't tell which one it is and they all use the same engine. The 1960's/70's were a great time for automotive engineering!
My understanding of these engines is they have a heavy weight crank , rods and pistons. Drove them for years. These motors only turn 4000 to 4500 rpm because of the heavy duty parts used. If you use passenger car or pick truck parts you can make them run right on the street. Throw away the truck parts, and the it will make a good stroker engine with aftermarket parts.
Man, I've forgotten all about the 366, absolutely just plum forgot, that was a truck, big truck engine too wasn't it, mainly? I just found your channel, glad I did, just in time to see you do something with the 366, going into a square body Chevy too, yeah just staying "stock" more or less, should be really really torquey in the pickup, depending on what tranny you put behind it and rear end, nevertheless ought to be exciting to see! Can't wait! Keep on keeping on and I'll be watching!
Another GM series of engines that are finding their way into Chevy trucks are the Cadillac 472/500s They were also built using high nickel castings and designed for durability and longevity. The Cad engines were not designed to rev; no 4 bolt mains (but huge 2 bolt main journals were large enough to match the bores of many smaller engines) and everything about these Cad engines were just massive but one fitted with an Edelbrock aluminum intake weighs in at just slightly more than a all iron stock SBC.
These tall deck BBC's are definitely an easier route for cheap big block power especially if you want to keep your truck all Chevrolet and so much easier to bolt in without extensive modding and can retain the Chevy transmission.
My dad said back in the day that some of our school buses had 366 motors that ran on propane Maury county TN
366 is an awesome, last forever engine. My dad ran schoolbus's. 366 was perfered over 350's
There's one thing you said that was not correct. You should NOT use a 454 flexplate or flywheel on a 366. The 454 flexplate and flywheels have extra weights on them because a 454 crank is externally balanced. The 366 crank is internally balanced. You must use a 396, 402, or 427 flexplate or flywheel on a 366.
U can also use the 350 flywheel, also internaly balanced
Here in SC a guy and his brother raced a `66 Chevelle with a factory 427 4 speed. I tried buying it ,bit he said it was like a member of the family. I understood what he meant.
Get on with it, already!
I don't have a lot of patience. Lol
Looking forward to this build, my guy.
You should move on then. This guy is not in a rush like you.
@@spaceghost8995 Did you even read my comment? Maybe you missed the LOL and the Looking forward to this build comment.
Also, a 454 does not have a neutral balance, they're externally balanced. They have counterweighted flexplates and flywheels, and the damper is also counterweighted. Note: NEVER turn the motor upside-down before removing the oil pan.
My Buddy has a 366 in his C60. He was gonna swap to an 8.1 but changed his mind so I'm in the process of getting a stand alone harness for the 8.1
We ran them on the Olympic peninsula haul shake bolts. Truck would haul from 3 to 6 cords of wood. Also ran the GMC V6 hauling the same weights. Pulled just as good!
To answer your title question is those blocks are almost non-existent due to all the mountain motor drag racers (both automotive & boat) snatch them up to be able to stroke them and not have to use shorter con rods.
My Dad had a 1950 26 foot GMC flat nose bus. Horizontally mounted rear frame. 409. Geared very low.6.11 to one? Grenaded two 409s. Built 1967 tall deck. Casting marked TRK
MAR . Four rings per piston. Fresh build problems solved. Ring and pinion mesh from wrong side.
Kool stuff 😎 keep us posted thanks for sharing with us
I worked at a construction company as a night mechanic in the early 70s these engines would last about a hundred thousand miles in a dump truck before needing a rebuild
I drove for a company that head several and the way we thrashed on those things makes me believe that ! That is some grunt work. A long pull up out of a gravel pit at 46000 pounds and the 427 singing a 4000 rpm 10 times a day will do that !
All cranks in tall deck blocks are forged steel. Rods are same as low deck blocks, tall deck blocks use 4 ring pistons needing extra deck height.
No they aren't. All the tall deck 427 are forged steel. Most of the 366 are cast steel.
@@johneckert1365 I can't speak with authority as to forged or cast cranks, but what I can say is the strokes are the same. If the 366 crank is forged, it's identical to the 427.
@Lorne.Mccuaig yup, strokes are identical. Maybe there were 366's with forged cranks, but I've never seen one. I've taken alot of them apart too.
Intresting stuff and will watch more as you put it on youtube.
I have only one thing to say from experiance, remove the oilpan before you turn the engine, if there is debris in it i can fall down in to the engine and easier to diagnose the engines health..
i did not do this on one engine and missed a clip that had come lose, i then rotated the engine and did score a cylinder lining, not a fun day..
366 is a very reliable engine if taken care of. A 427..... becomes a monster when you add a 4 inch crank, 6.535 rods and a 1.645 piston. 454 tall deck. @ 10.5:1 compression will give you almost 600ft#'s of torque on peanut port heads @ 1700 rpms. As someone who has used the 366 before swapping to a forged internal 454TD build i can swear by the performance. The 366 is still running in a square body blazer, the 454TD has repowered a 95 caprice wagon and now my old fire truck has a 12 valve, 7 speed Spicer trans and 2016 axles.
I always prefer high capacity cooling and lubricating options.
I have a 9 quart pan on my 361 I/C 4 bolt main, and a 7 gallon 4 vane radiator.
It was a fleet truck pulling heavy equipment for the city of Norwalk, CA and while only listed as am F350, it is rated as a 3 ton.
My newer Ck3500 is also a fleet truck, but being a 93, it has just a fairly normal 350 and 4L80E, which is not nearly as rugged.
The drive lines are somewhat different:
one has an I/C engine with fleet cooling, a 4 speed manual, and a 5.11:1 Dana 70,
and the other has a fairly standard model engine, automatic trans, and a 4.10:1 Dana 70
While they both have the same wheel base, I would have to directly measure the frames to know if they are the same length or not.
The frame on the Ford is thicker, but its also 1-ply "C" channel style, and the "k" member is bolted on,
While the thinner CK frame is "box" style with a few additional welded pieces as it merges into one under the engine, instead of having a bolt-on, drop-out "k" member.
They both have single piece front wheel hubs [disc brake rotors integral to the hubs] instead of the more common shallow hubs with removable rotors and a bolt-on extension for dually type rims.
A 366/427 would be a nice replacement for the 350.
My brother has one of those 427's in a 92 C-60 feed truck, but he has plans for putting it in an older square body 73 model C-60 dump truck.
I'll just have to keep my eyes out for one of these motors......and a manual transmission.
I had a stock 366 with a cam and intake back in the late 90’s it run mid 11’s in a 70 nova street car
These have several HD features from the factory. Lots of low end torque. I swapped in a 366 and a mild cam several years ago and I could feel a good improvement over a healthy 350 while plowing snow or in deep mud. The truck it's in is a 3/4 ton square body Suburban.
i have a 366 in a 1973 half ton 4x4 chevy truck that i put in around 1983 still have it used in field to spray farm chemicals has a 350 turbo auto trans behind it haven't ran it for years it was a beast positive track rear end had to be careful how hard you got on it had to put in two rear ends because i was playing around if your going to put it in a pickup find 454 exhaust manifolds makes it much easier if going auto a flywheel off a 327 auto trans will also be need good luck
I have a pretty good idea why that 366 was pulled out of the big farm truck. It's probably an oil burning, gutless pig like most of the 366's I've ever been around. My FIL used to run them exclusively in single axle Chevy dump trucks. They sucked gas like crazy and didn't make the power of a good 350. When I helped haul gravel, we got 3mpg all day long, foot on the floor and begging for more. They are durable though, can't seem to tear one up. 427's now are another story. Most of the truck 427's I've been around would run circles around any 366.
Cool project putting one in a pickup. I would have definitely opted for the 427 though.
A long time ago, Rodge Rager got into the Indy 500 running a 366.
Yes, the 366 was actually a good running engine. It was actually my motor that I let my cousin use I pulled one out of a dump truck and me and my cousin put it in his 1974 nova it was not fast at all. It had no horsepower but it had a shit ton of torque it would light the tires up Very easily but it would only turn about 4000 RPMs it was done and we left truck intake on the truck water pump. It had that weird ass thermostat double thermostat housing we had to make an adapter for the radiator hoses and everything we left the factory distributor and just converted it to pertronix electronic ignition, and we took the factory carb off and put a just a regular 750 double pumper on it and we ran it and it was a real reliable engine he drove it for almost 4 or five years like that until he over revved it to 5000 RPMs and broke a piston
Might have been a good idea to pressure wash it first, makes it a little nicer to work on. Cheers!👍
My dad and I had a delivery business in the 80"s . We had a C60 and 2 C65"s with 366 engines . The best thing about them is they would start no matter how cold it was outside .
The worst things is they seemed to shake apart all the time . One time a water pump shaft broke sending the fan thru the rad , at the same time the clutch threw a pizza slice size chunk of clutch out thru the lower bellhousing . The little fan blade on the alternator would split in half sending shrapnel thru the hood . The exhaust gaskets were prone to blow out too . If that happened first thing in the morning , you'd be deaf by the end of the day . The stock carburetors sometimes just didn't respond to throttle input , so I'd pull the choke knob out for a second and it would work again .
Pretty reliable for what they were I guess . By 1985 we just switched to diesel trucks .
messed with one 20yrs ago and did exactly what u are doing 366 in a 3/4 4x4 munze 4spd.....ran simple bolt ons with a factory talldeck intake with 650 edelbrock carb and swapped in a hei distributor headers but i put in a double roller adjustable timing chain cam retarded 4deg them set timing at 8geg at idle b4 full vacuum advance along with a curve weight kit ....thing was an animal....no clue how high the rpms went because no tac but it screamed.....hooked it to sled at a county fair once spun out in 4low 3rd gear long b4 it ever bogged ....actually still have motor and trans in storage and plan to build another truck same way someday
I had one of the 427TD from a 70’s dump truck, did a semi stock rebuild, mild cam, spacers and 2x4 high rise for a hot rod. That sucker was a torque monster. Was for show/cruising and didn’t race it but I would do another. Was cheap ($200), had an edelbrock carb. I don’t recall exactly what was done to get the distributor to set, I think I had the manifold milled so the distributor sat lower, was a long time ago.
The tall deck bigblocks are still a damn good engine to use. Even a stock one will make a 1/2 ton pickup get up and go.
Back in the 90s, my brother in law bought a big block and TH 400 from an RV that a friend of his was scrapping out. I believe he only paid a couple hundred bucks for both and put it in his half ton square body, didn't touch the carb, cam, intake etc. The thing purred like a kitten and would easily smoke the tires at will and pull like a freight train...anyway he thought it was a 454 until he ran the block number later on and found out that it was a 366.
Because in most passenger car applications the extra .400" deck height makes install too difficult w/no positive results. Only reason to use a 10.200 block is for increased crank swing, and cam location makes that debatable.
427 366 402 396 same crankshaft, they did have cast cranks in some of them, the steel crankshaft are 6223,
As far as I'm concerned the 366 is junk, I have two 70 series Chevy trucks, one with a 366 and one with a 30 over 350, the 350 will pull and run circles around that 366. The truck oil pans are 6 QT,
The 427 tall decks I use in a dragster
Bored over 120,000 with aluminum rods, short 427 Pistons. With a 6223 crankshaft. The tall decks will use a different intake. You would be better off billing you a good 350 then a 366. If you just want a big block build a 427 or a 454.
If I were not running Duramax diesel trucks the only other engine I would be looking for is the tall deck 427. I had a 1979 3500 dually with a 427 tall block in it back in the early 90s and it was a beast. Even got decent MPG.
That 366 lifter valley looks fresh out the box. Surprised it wasnt sludge city.
Had a tall-deck 427 truck block about 40yrs ago. Couldn't give the damn boat anchor away!
A old build I remember from the old timers. A 427 block, 327 humpers and a rv cam. Line Ballance and a rottie 700 off a 502 trade motor. Shh it is legend. Some of the more crafti would put the power steering on a ac clutch... Drop it into a nova 2 with a 12 bolt rear and a turbo 400.
I had c70 single axle, it was a beverage tractor, so I had it pull a three car trailer, it was the bomb two speed differential, just was the best combination for that trailer and picking cars up around Michigan. The only issue the air pump for the brake, kept vibrating loose.
Thanks
my buddy Dennis "FUZZ" McGraw ran a "366" Tall-Deck BBC in his 300' Sand Drag JEEP CJ-5 with an OVER-DRIVEN ( aka Ohio George McGovern style )
it was a MONSTER !
Thanks
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
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we have a 1972 chevy tall deck 427 complete - carb to pan , in good running condition for sale
For car guys, the best part of the 366 is the cylinder heads. Pull those off and put those on a '70's 454 PU truck engine that has peanut port heads. The 366 heads will give it better breathing and higher compression ratio.
427 is one of my dream Chevrolet motor, though I’m more passionate about the 428 Pontiac
Most aftermarket blocks are all tall decks , the weight I think was the biggest issue in the past because aluminum heads were not as plentiful as they are now which takes a ton of weight off the engine .
Been more than a few years since I've rebuilt a BBC. I currently have a 366 and std 427 sitting around. I also have a grain truck with a 427 5spd and 4spd auxiliary trans with a pto and dual rear axles. Came here looking for modern information. I'll check your play list to see what you have done. Thanks
Edit.
Well, that was disappointing. You haven't added to the rebuild 😕.
Hopefully you will have a finish video plus more.