Building New Takomo Irons for Wesley Bryan
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- Опубликовано: 8 янв 2024
- This video shows step by step how I built a new 4 and 5 iron in the Takomo 101t for Wesley Bryan. These clubs were built to match up with the Takomo 301CB irons I previously built for him. Included in the video is how I measure length, lie, swing weight and how to properly prep and assemble a golf club.
Interested in a custom build, repair, or club fitting. Contact me
elitefitgolf.com
adam@elitefitgolf.com 
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You have the best job ever. I would love to be a club builder. To get into the knitty gritty of every detail would be so satisfying. Awesome job, love your work
Truly excellent demo of club building. Bravo!
I have never built a club but I found your videos fascinating. Thanks for sharing!
Nice! Great shop setup and equipment sure helps things. Pleasure to watch someone work who has mastered the trade.
I build clubs and these videos are so soothing and calming for some reason 😊 great job!
Being a golf nerd, I really appreciate these types of videos. Great work 👏
Great video. Every time I watch this channel I want to learn to do this stuff for myself. As a gunsmith, it should be a very short learning curve.
As usual great video. I was especially intrigued since you were building for Wesley. Let’s see how he performs now once he gets accustomed to them.
Great video. I have always enjoyed building and tinkering with golf clubs. I would love to put together a shop like yours someday. Looks clean and professional.
Just ordered the 301 combo set. With stiff light shafts pretty cool seeing how they will be getting built
Great video again, very interesting! How about a video on all the tools in your shop and where your club making experience started.
Those irons are truly gorgeous
Love your setup and video! I have always used the shoe shine method for turning ferrules but I am still not great at it. Hot melt is interesting. Thanks again
Great insight into club building and subscribed!
From the time Wesley announced his WITB, I have been trying to figure out how to get the x100’s from the takomo site in the combo set! Finally know how 😂
I am in the process of doing this with my 101t but with a 101 4-5 iron! I thought I was crazy lol. I also think that takomo is really missing out by not selling the utility irons in a 101t size as well, I think for better players who want that driving iron (t200, p790 udi style) they could kill it. Great video!
I get what you’re saying. I’m playing the 301 Combo set and bought the 2 and 4 utility irons. Not a fan of the style of head on the Ui’s to be honest. Have added a couple grams of lead tape to the heads to try and help. Just don’t care for the ball flight and find myself having to change my swing a little for the clubs.
@@SFretnchillin exactly. Someone playing a lower handicap, able to play a CB or MB and wants a driving iron, wouldn’t love the look of the larger utilities they play now, for myself, I love them, inspire confidence, as a 11 handicap, it works, larger driving irons, healthy sized 4-5 and then the smaller mid and lows, perfect! Takomo should offer a combo in more than just the 301, people love the irons, they would buy them.
I used just sand paper to rough up the shims I used. Love this. I do need a swing weight scale
I build all my clubs. It’s very interesting trying different shafts and what works or doesn’t work for me.
LOVE my 201s!
I took delivery of a full set of 101T’s! Weather has been terrible in the UK, however, I have played for a few weeks now and they are as good as the reviews! For the price, I don’t see why you would go anywhere else!
So good !!! Thanks
I have seen many videos on gripping clubs, blowing grips on without any two sided tape or the std. two sided tape and solvent. Pros and cons for both. Thanks
I love your club building videos 🤌🏾
Did a pretty solid job it seems 😂 great video
Introducing the first Takomo tour truck guy
Great video, can you tell me how the centring powder works when In conjunction with the brass shim?
When using the powder w/out the shim I can understand the process, but combined with twisting and using the shim, isn’t there possibility of areas of epoxy being more dense than others and nullifying the benefit of using something to help centre the shaft?
Hope that makes sense…
The shafting beads should only be used at 5% per volume of epoxy so the beads are very limited. Beads are not meant to fill the same kind of spaces as a brass shim. To be completely honest, probably unnecessary to even use the beads here but I pretty much always use them since it can only help and won't hurt.
What is the grit number for the belt you use to turn down the ferrules? Thanks. I bought a 180 grit belt that I read is the right one, but it is too coarse. Doesn't adding the epoxy inside the head increase the swingweights?
Epoxy will add a very small amount of weight but most importantly you add it to every club so the net change is consistent.
The belt on the sander is linen not sandpaper. Linen is the preferred one to use. You can also get a softer felt type belt but it takes much much longer to do the job and flings a bunch of lint everywhere.
Did you put wooden dowels in Wesley's previous build? I thought I heard that somewhere, but was unaware you built them for him? Always love your content.
I did. I think it's a good option for a one piece forged head.
Arguably the best fitter in the Southeast
AJ, thanks for the detailed video on building clubs. A couple of questions: 1. doesn't adding the metal insert into the hosel add weight and change the swing weight, if so, how do you compensate for that? Do you make the initial swing weight lighter? 2. How do you now how much hot melt goes into the clubhead to get the swing weight you desire? I didn't see you measure any of the hot melt. Cheers.
In my opinion, he never really goes into great detail regarding swing weight theory and practice even in his “swing weight” video.
We’ll see if he explains any swing weight details here. No weights at all and the initial measurement is “meh, close enough, a little lighter than the other, I’ll make note of that” and then no other mention of it...
That brass shim is .007" thick, literally weighs nothing. The epoxy probably weighs more😶
The shims are super light so they change very little in the balance. And more importantly, I use them in every one of the irons so any change in consistent through the set. That is what is most important.
As far as the hotmelt goes, I just know how much comes out per squeeze and go off of that.
If Wedgley Bryan is using these for long irons, who the heck do I think I am thinking I should buy 201s this year? Nice vid
I'm a 8hc and play thee 101Ts. They are surprisingly forgiving for the size. I'd imagine the 201s are just as good. Highly recommend the 101Ts
Is thete a recomended epoxy resin to use for goid durability and strength?
Great presentation, am curious why you deducted 1/8" from overall shaft length? Is it made up with the grip?
It accounts for the length of the grip cap.
Exactly. The end of the grips varies between 1/8 and 1/4 inch. I find the 1/8 measurement gives me the perfect final length most every time.
Hi AJ, great video as always. I had a question about the Takomo irons. I recently got an iron fitting and was recommended Srixon ZX5 MK II. Do any of the Takomo irons compare to the Srixon? Or best bet to go with the Srixon?
I've got a mixed set of ZX5 and ZX7 in my bag right now so I can't argue against them. The stock 101 head would probably be the closest in performance to the ZX5 but with a bit more offset to it.
Thank you for the information!
Do you mesure head weights to be sure shafts will respond true to flex ? i've built Takomo irons . ,really heavy heads and shafts are playing softer ...
Most important for me is that all the heads are evenly weighted so that the shafts will feel similar through the set. I don't believe in hitting a specific flex frequency number. From my experience it's of little value.
thanks for you videos ,can you share where you buy you parts ?I looking to get some graphite iron shafts
I have suppliers and OEMs that I buy most shafts from. If it's something I don't have an account with, I will use Golfworks.
Heja! That's a nice informative video! But i have questions... You are bending the clubs in like and loft - do you? If you change loft, you change bounce and with the theft bouncer again the loft.... Simple said, more bounce belongs less loft (bounce takes loft). Do you have grind the sole of the Club? Or what else you do? By the way : this clubs are look nice for a low budget iron! Cheers
We only bent for lie here so no change in bounce.
I tinker with doing club repair. I’m curious about the hotbox and how that works being that you usually add heat to loosen the epoxy, but it seems there you’re using heat to harden the epoxy.
The warmer the temperature, the faster the epoxy will cure. However, I’m sure the box is keeping the epoxy well below the “let go” point which is usually above 200° F. Personally, I let the epoxy set at room temperature, but if your working production I can see speeding things up. Generally, the longer the cure time, the stronger the bond.
You can find in tour trucks epoxy heaters to speed up cure times. Those actually get very hot (well above 200F) but only for a set time. This both speeds up the cure and actually strengthens the bond. Those machines however a bulky, limited in number of clubs you can do, and comparatively expensive. This Amazon lunch box warmer is super cheap, very compact, and heats up to around 160F which allows me to use longer cure epoxies and have them ready to use in 1-2 hours.
I did a video on it when I originally picked it up.
ruclips.net/video/Bwhh1Qudw0U/видео.html
Which loft/lie machine is that? I see a few it could be on golfworks website. Thanks
Will you please comment on the feasibility of using spray foam, filling the entire cavity, versus hot melt? At least theoretically it would seem to dampen the sound without adding significant weight or affecting the CG.
In your other video on this topic, there were several commenters making the suggestion, and it has been discussed elsewhere in Takomo forums, but an expert opinion is needed here.
There is so little space in that head that I think foam would be difficult to get in there. Hotmelt is great because a small amount (1-2g) is plenty to change the pitch. We could also go maybe with the cotton ball method which has been used with drivers. I think we could thread one through the iron port??
I agree. This measurement is a starting point but different golfers may vary off this measurement. Length will really be an issue at the long and short end of the bag. If your clubs are too short for you, it won't be in a 7i that you notice it as much as it will be in the PW or 9.
is there any benefit to finding the spine of each shaft prior to assembly?
Nope
I am a high handicap, usually shooting around the low 90’s; best round being an 89. I am playing Taylor Made Burner super steel irons. I plan on upgrading my set later this year. I am curious if you all have any tips or suggestions as far a as fittings go? Open to hear your thoughts!
I've had some thoughts.
ruclips.net/video/1BV4n-Njp1c/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/gzO9a2IDyQw/видео.html
I’ve heard from many that shops Will not bend the lie on hollow bodied irons. You seem to do it with ease. Is there a risk that they break?
There is always a risk. If you accept that it could happen (so try to be as careful as possible) and realize that they can only be bent 1 or 2 degrees usually, it can be done.
You need to have someone do it who does it regularly and knows what it feels like when a club wants to move and when it doesn't.
Great video! I haven’t built a club since around 1995. Do you have Takomos there to do fittings with? I’m just north of Atlanta and will be looking to get a new set of irons soon.
Yes, we have the full line of Takomo irons.
Awesome, I have a few more questions so I’ll fill out the form on your website instead of here on RUclips. I appreciate it.
What you think about Takomo 201 irons? Are those too difficult for 15 hcp? Like your video!
I would put them up against ZX7, or T100. Probably 10 hcp club depending how good your iron game is.
OK thanks for your answer🤝
Thanks a lot for you time , I currently play the T 300 irons I believe the are .355 and my swing speed is around 80 I would like in the future to change the steel shafts to graphite which shafts do you recommend? After watching your videos I feel confident that I can do it my self . Again thanks a lot for answering my questions
What weight are you coming from and what weight are you wanting to get into?
@@EFGMC I currently playing the true temper red ones and I wold like to find some of the same or a little lighter , after watching you video about the different shafts weight ,I think you are right on saying that like a amateur like me the heavy shaft is mire beneficial that the lighter
@@lorenzoontiveros7875 You have the Red AMT shafts?
@@EFGMCyes I have the ATM red shafts , wen I buy my set i dint notice the they are stiff, but wen I try them thru the golf simulator on the store i was shouting the ball farther and I gain more distance too
@@lorenzoontiveros7875 Those average out around 100g, so you probably want to be somewhere around there in graphite if you want similar. Many of the graphite shafts offer a 105 weight as a heavier option. Lighter options would be 90g. Not sure you would want to go lower than that without testing some of them.
I enjoy watching your videos they are calming for whatever reason. However you do need to pay attention to the orientation of the club head after you inject the hot melt until it firms up. Holding the club the way you did put it towards the heel and then onto the backside of the face (probably the best location) but it didn’t look like you did exactly the same for the 4 iron…
Nevertheless, you are right about preparation and cleanliness being the key 👍
Thanks for watching. As for the melt used. I only used between 1 and 2 grams in each of these two heads. As the heads themselves weigh in at around 260g, the hotmelt weight is so small that it will not change anything in the balance or CG of these heads. Even a 460 cc driver at sub 200g would need a much more significant injection of hotmelt to actually see a difference in performance.
Surprised to see Wesley Bryan using a 101t, wonder what made him choose the hollow body over the 201 for his longer irons
The 101t looks closer to the 301 line. The 201 is a little blockier in its lines.
I wish you could order combo sets or individual irons. Takomo would make a killing
It interesting he plays a different grip on just his 4-5i very interesting
He will probably change these. I originally put Tour Velvet on the 301s as directed. He obviously changed them at some point.
@@EFGMC iv got a question with the .370 why not just CPM .370 what's the payoff of .355 just wondering
@@SteveSiwak-sv8sd Tour Issue DG X100 only available in .355 tip. That's why we used it here.
would you say the 101T is a forgiving iron. Im a +18 handicapper and was wondering whether youd suggest these?
Probs better off with the 101s
T’s not forgiving. More for pure ball strikers.
I thought Wesley was a Callaway guy so this was very interesting! As this channel always is.
@@CamMacMastermusic George is a Callaway guy
101t is a pretty small head with minimal offset and pretty weak lofts. Unless you hit your irons well I'd probably lean towards the 101.
Doesn’t TT make a parallel tip in the Dynamic Gold series?
Not for the Tour Issue
I've wanted to do this also but it's frustrating that you can't get individual heads from Takomo to build a combo or a single iron like a 4.
i lost my 5 iron somehow and have been searching far and wide for a replacement. only downside of takomos lol love the clubs tho
Are you still using the Kaufman enterprises scout III frequency analyzer
I still own it.
It looked like you put hotmelt in the 4 iron then put it face down, surely some of it went on the face which is a big no no according to the TM tour truck guys? How do you distribute the hotmelt inside the club to make sure it doesn't just sit in the toe and make the clubs really fade-biased? Wesley does love a 'weak fan shot out to the right'...
Thanks
The moment it hits that room temp interior, that melt isn't going anywhere. It's set in about a second especially when we are using the small quantities we did here.
I want the Takomo 101
How can I get them?
What do you need from me to costume build them?
Thank you
Email me what you are thinking for custom options.
adam@elitefitgolf.com
No need for a brass tip to increase swing weight? Or is D1 Wesley's spec?
Comes out to D2 once epoxy, shim, and ferrule are installed.
What is the difference between 101T and 101 please, can you tell me why American golf told me if he made clubs for me he would make them 4 degrees upright. Thanks. PS enjoyed your video. Made me realise no way do I buy without Proper fitting.
The 101 is game improvement. Bigger head, more offset, lower lofts, wider sole and top line. 101t looks a lot like a pure blade iron but is more forgiving. Has high standard lofts for a hollow body design.
I can't speak to the 4 degree lie change without seeing you hit balls. I'd recommend a sharpie lie test to see if you really need that much.
Thanks for your advice.
I may be wrong but shouldn’t you adjust the lie on them before you cut the shaft??
Why would you? If you are referencing a possible length change from the lie, I did a video about this and the difference was too small to measure.
It looks like you had to take a ton off of the ferrules. I feel like any more than a second or two and may get ruined. Any tips?
These were actually a pretty close fit. Looks like more than it really was. The linen belt takes a very fine layer off so it was a mile long, but an inch deep.
I’m confused. Why wouldn’t you use a DG x100 .370 tip shaft, instead of going through the extra steps of shimming?
Tour Issue DG shafts are only available in .355 tip. There are many shafts that only offer a .355 option especially if you are wanting constant weight.
Does anyone know how he is able to put hotmelt into the injection port as the cavity is supposed to already be filled with TPU from the factory?
Where does it say it's being filled with TPU in the factory? As far as I can tell, the cavity is empty.
You're right...I made an assumption that it was like the PXG , Taylormade or Cobra hollow bodies with TPU injected. No mention on the web site that this is the case.
Agreed, while some use some kind of foam, I believe Takomo does not. At the moment.@@BallMarks
Is it legal to put that hot melt in the club ?
Completely.
@EFGMC I would greatly appreciate it if you could help clear up a mystery. When did you obtain the head that you filled for this video?
A 101T owner (in a Takomo Facebook) just opened up his port and it is filled with a red spongy polymer-like substance (TPU?) as far as he could insert his probe. He purchased that head in April.
And yet you just put hot melt into a head a couple of weeks ago, indicating that it was empty?!
I have yet to get a response from Takomo definitively stating whether that head is now foam filled when previously it was not?
We would be grateful for any information you could provide to help clear this up. Thanks.
Not sure. I got the hotmelt needle in no issue to put a small amount in. Did not notice any tpu in it. Don’t know when the heads were built or shipped from.
@@EFGMC If you have any other 101T heads (or the next time you get one) please open the weight port and take another peek inside.
A Facebook group member opened up his port and has a photo of the inside which appears to show a red substance filling the cavity. If yours had looked like that too, I think you would have noticed right away when inserting the needle.
I also contacted Takomo if they could clear up this question, but have not heard back from them yet.
@@EFGMC His comment was: "
"I took out the screw to look again, there is definitely much more than than just thread lock. There’s a rubberized material that I could feel for at least 1” into the head as I probed it with an instrument."
@@EFGMC SOLVED: Takomo replied, and confirmed the cavities are NOT filled on the 101/101T.
The substance that was observed may have been overflow of the glue binding the two-piece had together.
@bryanbrostv is quickly become top ten channels for me 🎉
Enjoyed the video. I'm a bit surprised that with all the gear available to Tour players and builders you would use a shim to fit non-matching hosels and shafts. I know Tour Issue X-100 are tighter in weight, but an alternative would be to get some weight-sorted .370 parallel X-100 shafts and avoid using shims. It just seems worth it to me to avoid adding another metal part, complicating a very simple build. Thanks again, like your videos very much.
There is no reason to not use a shim. I can't stress this enough. They are so valuable to a club builder and change nothing in the integrity of the build. They are cheap, easily modified, and out importantly they just do the job.
You also don't have access to constant weight .370 Dynamic Gold shafts, at least I don't.
I've used shims many times in the past, sparingly though. Why not just find an alternative to the Takomo that has a .355 hosel? I would argue they do have a negative impact by the fact that you're adding an additional component to the build. And if you asked how many Tour players have shims in any of their irons, the answer would probably be zero, aside from Wesley Bryan.@@EFGMC
@@powpowpro I've never had a single issue or fail using a brass shim. If you want to talk about bad ideas in club building design, i will point you to Ping and PXG who use a ridiculous long collared ferrule in all their irons that will creep loose. Not a question of if, just when.
Assume the cut was when the camera guy cleaned the shims and ferrules for you XD
how come when checking swing weight you didn't include the ferrule and also the glue, although not much will make a difference too.
Because you are going to add the same weight with every head (each one gets both ferrule and epoxy) and that amount of weight is very very small.
The long irons are very long. I am selling my UDI P790 2 iron because the 4 and 5 are great!!
Why do you have to grind the ferrule ? Do they come oversized? Thanks
To get a professional finish, you want to start with a slightly oversized ferrule and turn it down to fit. The OEMs have ferrules that are the exact size for their hosel dimensions but it's hard to find perfect fits in the aftermarket. Also the more exotic ferrules (colors and patterns) will be very limited in size options.
I would like to send you one of my putters to replace the shaft
Have you seen the video Club Champion posted about how they build clubs. A lot of people have negative things to say and I'd love to see your reaction to how they built the driver
I'm not surprised. Club champion is a hater, given the ridiculous prices they charge as a competitor
You need to cut some chopsticks or get a long wooden rod from Lowe’s/ HD to do your epoxy with. Also, shop towels work MUCH better than paper towels.
Use what you like. I’ve used shop towels also. I cut these wood sticks in half to get to this length, no need to be any longer.
I thought Wesley swore by Superstroke grips? 🤔
I think he changed the 301 to the Superstrokes. Guessing he may do the same. I was instructed to use Tour Velvet on the build.
I thought Wesley was using Super-stroke grips on all his clubs be he is sponsored by them
I think he changed them, I was given the build sheet with Tour Velvet on them. Did the same for the 2 sets of 301s I did for him.
I thought he was Callaway person
Now westley just needs to learn how to score.
Straight to consumer at two thirds the price ... but then you have a set of $700 irons that are not fit for you , and you're gonna spend what you would've spent on a set of titleist irons, to have them retro fit for you .
Takomo has custom options on their site where you can change length and lie.
@majormike1688 True ...but lie angles vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.. some "standard" lie angles are more upright /flat than others
Ok, I thought it was to an accepted standard across the board, thx for the reply.
@@joshuamartins9487
Wesley could use a bit more forgiveness. lol. Got any super forgiving drivers?
Unless you did it ahead of time or are the luckiest guy in the world, there is no way those two clubs are 4-5 cpm apart. There was no frequency checking or puring of those shafts in your build. I probably have'nt been building clubs as long as you but i have been doing it for 20 years and there is such a small chance of 4-5 cpm seperation between these shafts without doing some tipping. Maybe even they could have been too firm for a 4 or 5 iron frequency for his swing speed. Doesnt look like a very precision build especially for a tour pro, unless that was done before you filmed. I know dynamic gold tour issue shafts are the best but they are not perfect. Some in fact are quite awful as far as straightness. I do know that for each mph of clubhead speed correlates to a certain frequency(cpm). Thats how i build my clubs after i fit someone. With someone like this your pro i would definitely be precise on the build.
Still love the videos.
At your level, now doing clubs for PGA pros you need to use the 3M DP810epoxy.. the golfworks epoxy fails and will never keep a ferrule from creeping… your customers will thank you.. I’ve had driver heads twist with that golfworks junk.
I disagree. The Golfworks epoxy line is excellent and if you mix properly and do your prep work, you should have no issues. I've had plenty of ferrules creep up that were built by OEMs with high end epoxy.
Do you sometimes get bad batches of epoxy, yes, but it's almost always user error not faulty epoxy.
Complete copy of tiger irons
I spine every one of my shafts so they repeat