PERFECT IRONS TO LEARN GOLF CLUB RESHAFTING
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- I show you step by step how to reshaft a set of irons and discuss why this brand is one of my top choices for learning how.
Make sure you check out my new RUclips channel, Elite Fit Golf
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Every time I see your videos I say that your channel is the best school and you are the teacher, with everything I learn in your videos, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Excellent video, i just got back from an iron fitting trying out different shafts (i have my own heads). They want over $1000 for shafts and installation on 8 clubs, just as much as a new set basically. Gonna try this soon!
Thanks for the demonstration 👍
Hi Adam, Thanks you for this amazing video. I watch another one of your videos and now I’m the owner of Maltby TS3 iron heads. I’ve been dabbling with doing this type of thing so thanks again for the video.
Thanks for the video! You have the best club repair videos on RUclips! Wishing you much success at your new shop!
Your vidz have been great! Finally got the guts up to assemble my first full set of clubs…did a set of Titleist T200 irons with AMT White S300 shafts…went really well and they feel great!
Steelfiber is a excellent shaft choice. I have them on my Apex 21's and I couldn't ask for a better shaft. After playing Dynamic Gold S400/X100 for 25+ years these have been wonderful on my joints.
With the ferrels and white grips it gives them a Miami Vice look.
One of my favorite channels on RUclips. Great video!
AJ thanks for the tutorial, just wishing I had the shop equipment and set up you have. Always enjoy your vids.
These videos are great. Thank you.
Hiya, your channel is the only one that’s discussed tip trimming taper irons so that’s led to a question for my new set. KBS C Tapers shortest shaft is 37.5” so do you tip trim in 1/8th inch increments in the PW, GW and specialized wedges so they play the same as the rest of the set or is it preferred to that they play softer ?
You can trim them 3/8 and still have them fit a taper hosel. I would do them all the same, 1/8 is too small to bother with.
great job AJ..beautiful set of irons you built.
Really informative. What size drill bit did you use to drill out the remaining epoxy in the hosel. It was surprising how much epoxy came out.
Following this
The best bit to use is a spiral fluted reamer bit. It will be .355 for taper tip shafts or .370 for parallel shafts.
Another great video!
I quit using the drill to sand out the inside of a ferrule because it melted one of my ferrules a bit one time. I just do it by hand and it takes 15 sec
Love the channel. I have a quesrion. When puring, spinning, floing and etc. What is the correct orientation to install the shaft? Strong point up, down, left are right. Thanks
I only answer this with the caveat that no one should be paying money for this process. Huge waste. That said, if you want to do it yourself, best option is to have all the shafts orientated the same way whatever that may be.
Again that said, never do it, definitely never pay for it. IMO
nicely done!!
You went from DG steel shafts to a lighter graphite shaft. What were the swing weights prior and after? Static weight before and after?
4 and 5 were D0, 6-9 were D1, PW and GW were D2 at the end. Did not check them before, does not matter. Static weights would be about 25-28g lighter.
I notice you're using epoxy on the ferrules now. Good man.
For sure with these ferrules and shafts.
Did you mention what acetone will do to plastic? Why the light touch? Like the video overall.
Yeah, it will dissolve the plastic or deform it which is why you want to use the lightest stroke possible.
AJ: Would love to know why you swing weighted without the grip? Once the grip is installed the swing weight will have decreased... why not get the SW of the finished club?
This was my bad in how I edited the video together. I do the first club using the matching grip and SW it. Then measure same club again without grip and that that conversion and use it through the rest of the set so I can measure everything else without grip. It’s just a faster method for me.
How do you avoid the sandpaper from coming loose on the dowel? Why the need to turn the ferrules? Do you have a detailed video on using the air compressor for removing grips?
You can buy sandpaper tips that fit on small dowels so they don't fall apart.
You turn the ferrules so they sit flush against the hosel. Purely cosmetic.
Here is the air grip install and removal video I did.
ruclips.net/video/vuGnpvDEQuA/видео.html
Hi AJ. I really enjoy your videos with very useful tips and insights. I couldn't help but notice that clever little adapter you used here for the air compressor to connect to the grip. Did you get that from a store or was it something you custom-made with a 3D printer?
That piece comes from PURE grips as their install tool but it works for most any grip for air install. I did need to create an adapter however since the threading was larger than what my tire inflator could fit.
@@EFGMC Thank you
Greetings, I recently put a graphite shaft in my Mizuno MP-52 irons and now they sound hollow (a (CLAP) sound) which I don't like because I must have done it wrong, should I have put a silicone plug on the tip of the shaft? Or is it just a matter of gluing the shaft on and that's it?
Hi AJ. Love your videos. I wished I lived near you. I have a question about your air compressor connector. I believe on the video it’s green and it seems to fit right around the grip. Where did you get that connector.
Looks like the unit you get from Pure shafts.
What was the swingweight of these Mizunos when they were finished?
Ive watched quite a few of your videos and i see you putting everything together, even rubber banding the grip on to check swing weight. But shouldn't you put your wrap or wraps of grip tape on the shaft to add butt weight. If your adding weight to the heads maybe a couple more grams to balance out the tape?
You could but the dry fit is really just an estimation and more important in making sure all the clubs are the same or in a desired progression. No tape, but also no ferrule or epoxy so it usually balances out unless you are using bigger grips or extra tape in which case SW gets thrown off and might not be accurate for what you want.
can I ask a question I was looking at the web site you recommend golf works and wen I check at the irons the offers a purring service or something like that that is necessary and is a addition charge to the price of the shaft ,thank a lot for you time and you videos are very informative make me want to try to change my shafts on y irons
I am re-shafting my Mizuno, MP 33 with a set pulls (FROM A SET OF miuras). Is the BBSM the same for both iron sets? Also, how do I line up the grips exactly with the iron so it’s not off-center… thank you for your time
Not sure about the bore to ground difference between them though I think they are within a 1/4 inch at most.
Grips I would either set each club down on ground after epoxying and check alignment before leaving to dry, or dry fit them, line up the grips so they look lined up and then put some sharpie lines on shaft and hosel you can use as guide.
What is the pressure setting for installing the grips? Nice video with great info.
55-60psi
I've done three sets of grip replacements (with solvent) since I got back into golf and started collecting wonderful old irons that don't hold much favor in the young crowd these days. I still love playing them, and the options I can afford with them. I have some ferrules to fix and one set of Haig Ultra's (Wilson-made) that I'm planning to reshaft. I hear the Fluid Feel shafts can be difficult to remove, but think I can manage. Do you have any insight on them-probably not something you see a lot of.
Not sure I've ever dealt with any.
Good morning. Quick question. What's your opinion on shaft weight and flex through an iron set. Example. 4-pw 105 gram R flex tapered tip. Should I get additional wedge shafts in the same weight and flex for my gw, sw and lw? Are go with a little heavier shaft. What's the normal if you were building a complete set from say 4-lw
Most better golfers will have similar weight in the wedges and the irons or will use slightly heavier weights. If your irons are 105, I'd go somewhere in the 105-115 range for wedge weight.
You mentioned if it’s .37 tip you have to cut the tip end as well. I’m trying to reshaft a taylormade m4 iron set with graphite and wondering how to apply what you’re saying. Could you please advise on the meaning of having to cut the tip ? Thanks !
Depending on the shaft you are using (make and model) you will need to cut the tip a certain amount for each individual iron head it's going into. For example, you might need to cut the 5i shaft 2 inches and the 7i shaft 3 inches. The amount will be found on the shaft website usually.
@@EFGMC understood and thank you! I’ve read a few websites and nothing suggests cutting from the tip.. I watched another one of your videos where you use the ruler and marked the butt end of the shaft to cut it. Could you possibly do a video on this? I still can’t wrap my head around why cutting from the tip makes sense considering .37 is the tip diameter.. if I cut at the tip wouldn’t that compromise that diameter? Thanks !
@@yaoming11fan A .370 shaft usually has at least 5 or 6 inches of parallel running walls so you can cut from the tip without worrying about the tapering.
What was the swingweight with original shaft and after new shaft fitting. Didn't see you measure either.
After they were D0 in 4,5
D1 in 6-9
D2 in P, G
Did not bother with what they were going in.
I have a question about the amount of epoxy to put in the ferrel. If there is too much epoxy in the ferrel when you install the shaft and it goes up into the shaft, when it is installed, will it affect the tip of the shaft in any way?
Assuming you are meaning the hosel, not the ferrule. If you have too much epoxy with a steel shaft, it won't really matter. If you have a graphite shaft, it can force extra epoxy into the shaft which isn't ideal.
What is turning down the ferrels? Or whatever term that was used?
I re-shaft my 6-PW to one length to be honest it was quite easy to be honest, It was simple to build just a few essential tools, like club maker has, male sure you have the right epoxy, take your time and you will be quite surprised how you can save money doing it yourself.
I did this about 6 months ago.
So if you have the patience you will be quite surprised by your own ability.
I would add though try it on an old club first to see how it works out for you.
I let them all set for minimum of 48 hrs and make sure you line everything up.
Do your research and practice you really won't need to go to the overpriced club fitters. Wouldn't recommend rushing it take your time.
Are the club heads going to all weigh the same to establish consistent swing weight during the dry run prior to installation?
AJ do you know what the little rubber insert with a twisted head that you find inside the hozel of an iron is? What its called and where can I buy one. Thanks Matt
Can I di my Wilson Staff Tour Blades from 1978 ? They have TT Dynamic Gold shafts now, the original shafts. What size are the shafts ?
Wow can't say I've ever turned down the ferrules. They were always same diameter as hosel so left them alone. Assume you did it to ensure the diameter was even?
Also, any reason not to blow the grips onto the shafts earlier in the process when using air install anyway - seems like I would get a more-accurate swingweight that way
Best to have a sealed tip for the air to work properly. Tape might give you a tight enough seal, but if not the air will just go straight through the shaft and the process won't work.
You can just rubberband the grip onto the butt end at the appropriate position and leave a little gap between the end of the shaft and the SW scale backstop to replicate the grip being installed. I only do that for one club and then just take measurements with no grip and convert all the numbers accordingly.
What is that jig you are using to measure clubs? Id like to get one.
Not sure which one is in this video. The silver one I use was homemade, the black and yellow one is from Golfworks.
Hey AJ I been watching a ton of your videos lately as I’m experimenting with my own clubs. Just a quick question, what are the shafting beads for and are they necessary? I reshafted my driver since it broke on the tip, I cut off 2 inches at the tip to the height of my liking and added 8 grams to the head just cause that’s what I had available to add. I used only JB weld original cold weld formula 24 hour epoxy. Would I need to redo this and add shafting beads to the epoxy?
Shafting beads just help center the shaft in the hosel. They don't add any structural support.
What size drill bit did you use?
Have reshafted many clubs and I follow your steps to do so. Having issues with ferrule gaps. Used shims on .355 shafts to .370 hosels with centering beads and the head still gets slightly cocked, any tips would be great?
If you can rest the clubs with the hosel in a vertical orientation when the epoxy is drying, that can help prevent the shaft leaning in a more upright position.
@@EFGMC Thanks for the response. I do stand them up vertically, so I put epoxy on the shaft, pressed shim in place, put epoxy in the shim, put epoxy in the hosel, press it together while rotating, then tap it on the floor as usual. When I the club vertical, the head can still rock slightly, seems to only happen when I use shims
@@MikeSmith-er7sz Many clubs will end up having a slight shaft lean. I will counter rotate the shaft every 3rd time when using a shim because I do find the shims can sometimes warp and twist in the hosel, especially with the thinner shims. A rotation in the opposite direction seems to help some times.
Also remember in some cases the hosel bore may not be perfectly straight which can lead to the same problem through no fault of yours.
If you were to use mineral spirits and two sided tape, do you peel off the tape backing before adding the liquid and then install the grip?
Yes, remove all backing paper, wrap the shaft and then use the mineral spirits for install.
How do i know when to use lead tip weights?
Use them to balance out the swing weights across the set or if you just want a heavier feel. I always dry fit everything together to see where they fall and make adjustments with weights before epoxy.
Hi, was the attachment on the tire inflator the pure grips attachment? Does that work for most grips or just pure grips?
Yes it is. I works for most any grip that you would try to use this method for. Jumbo size grips would probably not fit inside the attachment.
If I need to extend my shafts by 3/4", in your opinion is it okay to use extensions or is it worth it to completely re-shaft (assuming I'm doing it myself so cost isn't really an issue, just effort)
3/4 is fine. Anything under 1 1/4 I am okay with.
What size drill bit do you use for the hosel and the inside of the shaft?
Varies by shaft and head. Does not need to be a specific size, just small enough to fit inside and clean out any epoxy residue.
Hey....did you use double sided tape with compressed air? Thanks
No. Plain masking tape.
What size drill bit should you use to drill epoxy out of the hoesel for tapered shaft. How long is the taper at the end of the shaft. Can you take that drill down to the bottom of the hoesel? Did not know you could blow on Golf Pride grips? Does that work for all Golf Pride grips? I had been using Pure Grips but I understand they went out of business. Have you used Star grips? Liked Pure because of low weight and feel of DTX. What do you use to heat hoesel for shaft removal?
Is anything special for a g430 iron?
Anything Ping is going to have some extra hoops to jump through. They don't make it easy.
What are your thoughts on spinning iron shafts?
Don't. I've done a few videos on this. Anyone who tries to sell you on this is stealing from you.
I have a manual spinning shaft tool that I use all the time, I don’t charge for it I just do it for my customers.
@@williamtocco8105 If you don't charge for it, then I don't have any issues with it. Still would never personally recommend though.
What's the drill bit size for removing the epoxy?
I think it depends on which hosel you have.
Shouldn't be using a drill bit to be honest.
Get a specialised one with wire brush attached.
If removing solid epoxy leftover use whatever drill bit you have which is smaller and closest to hosel size.
Depends on the situation. I will use a smaller size sometimes (3/16) or similar if I need to break a tip weight loose in the hosel.
If I am just trying to remove a larger mass of epoxy, I will use a wider bit that still fits easily inside the hosel. Just need to be careful when drilling depending on what type of head you are dealing with.
Golfworks sells specific sized reamers I personally use that are ideal for this task.
How can I turn down ferrules without the sander?
This is a reshaft video without any of my special tools.
ruclips.net/video/rwKquntylmM/видео.html
@@EFGMC Thank you!
Are Ping irons difficult?
They add a couple steps.
Where at you located ?
Atlanta
What air pressure did you use?
55-60psi
@@EFGMC I blew up a grip once trying to take it off lol
@@CybekCusal Taking it off is a little different. If it was installed with tape and solvent, you need to be careful of bubbles forming and popping when removing with air. A PVC pipe just big enough to fit over the grip can help keep this from happening.
still waiting for u to say that i won those wedges.
There is so much more detail that goes into making irons that you left out. Shaft lengths are different for majority of the clubs. Where to cut shafts and how isn't explained. Where to find that particular information isn't explained. This is more of another show off video.
All of that info is available in other videos on his channel, though it might be a great idea for AJ to post links to the relevant vids for anything not covered in detail here.
You want a 3 hour video?