GOLF CLUB BUILD - How to reshaft your irons Step by Step
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- Опубликовано: 28 июн 2020
- In this golf club build video, we are going to reshaft my Mizuno irons with new KBS steel shafts. I will cover the entire process from pulling the old shafts, to installing the grips. This video includes measuring, weighing, swing weighting, prepping and cutting shafts, picking and installing ferrules, mixing and applying epoxy, finishing ferrules and installing the grips. If you want to see the entire club building process, watch this video.
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pro tip: put head in vice, then heat shaft while pulling. Uses least amount of heat - even works with graphite.
The best video for reshaft irons, thank you
Really good demonstration of how to re-shaft your own clubs. Thank you so much.👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Absolutely love the red KBS labels with the black shafts!
Thank you. This was very useful. I’m thinking of doing my own club building and this really helped my understanding of what is involved. I look forward to watching some of your other videos.
Thanks for this! I just successfully reshafted my 4 iron with your instructions.
Brilliant tutorial AJ… I learnt a lot there…. Thank you.. 👍
Thank you for taking the time to show us how to do this. I know how to epoxy the head but had no idea how much went into this! Thank you again!
Curt
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Really enjoyed your video. Very detailed and simple content.
Fantastic content, really given me the confidence to do my own clubs, looks an incredibly satisfying, relaxing job
I've done this a long time, and it still feels great to look down at a club that you put together!
Thanks for the thorough explanation; planning to re-shaft my irons over the winter.
Your clubs look great, good choice to go without the shaft labels imo. Great job!
Thanks you for this. Following your instructions I put new shafts on my irons super easy and fun. Using the calculator they all came out D2-D3. I know the calculations aren't perfect but for at home DIY I am super happy! Thanks again
Congrats. Glad to hear the videos were helpful.
Nice work, I really learned a lot
very nice shop, i noticed that, my career was over 45 years in the elevator trade , instructor also, for apprenticeship young mens, step by step is very importnant, thank you sir
Wow awesome, i can only hope all club builders are as meticulous as you. I dropped my clubs off to pga superstore to get reshafted and I hope they follow all your steps!
Ummm. I hope so too.
Great videos, really enjoying them 👍👍
Thanks for the support!
Loved the video. I've been half-scared to try to take on a reshafting project, but after watching, I think I can handle that! Thanks!
Great! If you have any questions, post it here. I try to respond asap.
@@EFGMC it was fun! I reshafted two 6-irons to try the graphite shafts, and I have to say- it was much more straight forward than I thought it would be. I really enjoyed doing the work on my own clubs. Thanks!
@@joebeagle1009 Fantastic. Of course you realize now no club in your bag is safe! The tinkering flood gates are open.
Nice work..good instruction..
Another great video....well done sir.
Glad you enjoyed it!
this helps me a lot because I am designing my own golf irons and I wanted to know what the process was like so i can get the dimensions for the hozel to line up with assembling the ferrule and shaft
Thanks for the refresher about to build a set from some Callaway heads though I am using Callaway Diablo Shafts.
Depending on what heads you are using, you might want to watch this video also. Some Callaway hosels require a bit more work to get a good fit.
ruclips.net/video/eSdutT5NU40/видео.html
@@EFGMC Thanks for the link appreciate it. A few years ago I built a set of Callaway X and your correct the shafts can be a little fiddley.
Great Video; I like the part where you say you get restless and bored. I see why you are so good at what you do. I love trying new things, but I try not to overdo it. I have a few very complacent friends; their game never changes; they get excited when they have a fair game, low mid 90's lol; they wonder why I don't play with them anymore.
Sometimes I just need something different to look at in the golf bag. Also a convenient excuse for bad play!
Nice Job !!
Thanks for watching!
Cool video. If you take a piece of fishing line and run it over the end of the tip then slide the head on It will be a nice tight friction fit so the head won’t fall off while swing weighing. If that makes sense.
I've seen that trick from a Mizuno video I believe. I think McGolf also uses it for frequency matching. For me in the time it takes to get the fishing line cut and lined up, I can have already weighed out 3 clubs, but if you're worried about dropping a pristine new head on the ground, I can see the appeal.
I made a mock grip with 4 wraps of tape. Had to add brass tip weights to every shaft (they got really head light) to dial in the swing weights. I found it difficult to get the exact swing weight for each club. There all right around a D2ish. First time ever building my own clubs. It was a long process for me. Your video was definitely helpful.
Love hearing that. It gets easier and faster as you get more used to the process and any little variations that can come up with different brands.
great work! i like the shaft label for looks and identification for future owners. i prefer to have the label where you can see it, rather than hiding on the bottom. personally i don't want a swing weight more than d2, but with a 120 gram shaft, probably could not tell. i wonder about orientation of shaft seam, since you have the ability to go a little beyond standard manufacturing techniques.
Thanks for watching. I don't believe that aligning the shaft in specific orientations is of any discernible benefit so I don't do it. But if you have the means to identify and feel it's a benefit, then I say go for it. I just would never pay for it.
Damn KBS and their higher balance points. Those are some decent tips you're inserting. Had the same issue with mine. I also had to deal with going 1/4 in shorter. Great video
Yeah, I feel your pain. Those were 10g weights I used in about half the heads. I like the KBS Tour shaft but it's a PIA when it comes to swing weight. Just went with Nippon with my new build b/c I knew they are tip heavy by comparison.
@@EFGMC modus?
@@dcloder Sorry, yes Modus3 115 though the 120 and 125 are also more neutral. Stay away from the older NS Pro as they are more butt weighted again.
That tilting vice when installing grips would drive me crazy.
I just reshafted a friend’s new Bettinardi wedges. That glue was tough to break. I started with my heat gun but gave up and used the torch. And I always use my shaft puller.
If they are steel shafts, usually easier to torch it, then twist the head to break the epoxy bond.
only thing i would say is make sure to put ferrules on when weighing for swing weight.
Precise and methodical, well done. Best instructional vid for reshaft. Thank you.
Love to have the video link to remove grips and reinstall as you did.
Here is the link
ruclips.net/video/wpVbsmVshyw/видео.html
Thanks!
New to golfing. Was gifted some older model Golden bears. One happens to have a iron head separating from shaft so I need to get that fixed. Also started the process of put new grips… the old ones ( originals) are in really bad shape. Your videos gave me lots of hope to get that # 4 iron fixed. Thanks for the video 👍
I would have used the labels I think kbs has one of the coolest shaft bands. Good video though I’m about to do/have my 4 iron done.
Yeah, I always default to simple when it comes to aesthetics. Logos down, plain black ferrules, single sight line putters. Boring stuff but less distracting for me.
Nice video
Thanks for watching.
Love watching club building and enjoying doing it for myself. Always tinkering around with different shafts lol. Was wondering what brand and model your combo sander and cutoff wheel is ? Nice setup !
The one in this video is from Golfworks. It's the smaller option and although I liked a lot about it, I would not recommend it. I've had two of them fail (bad motors). Ungraded to the larger 1/2 HP version now and it seems like the better choice. Hopefully it continues to be!
If you are removing the grips with compressed air, remove the grips before removing the heads. If you remove the heads first the air will blow through the open shaft tip and not push the grip off.
Great job thks
Thanks for watching and subscribing
All golfers can hit every flex. But I believe the flex they can control direction the best, in their chosen head, weight and length. Thus optimizes the fit.
@@johnknobbe8247 My point is that far too many people get too wrapped up in the idea of flex or hitting exact CPM numbers, and from my experience it's just not that important. Yes it has value, and my comment about hitting a flex vs. x flex was a bit tongue and cheek but still holds. See people going back and forth in there heads between 2 flexes all the time and it just doesn't seem to matter much. And I would argue whatever fitting differences you observe will very often be negated or a least flattened out after more time with the clubs.
This is a great video, really informative! definitely feel more confident taking on a project like this. the only question I have, is if you want to have the grips aligned with the club face, what is the best way to make sure they are aligned?
I would use the level on your phone to make sure the face is perfectly up and down before putting the grip on.
Great video, love the level of detail and pacing. I'm in the planning stage of reworking a set of MP-18 MMCs but I don't have them in hand. Do you happen to know the BBGM (bottom bore to ground measurement) on these? It's the difference between the cut shaft length and the assembled playing length. Thanks!
I do. It's just over 1 inch, call it 1 and 1/16 to 1 and 1/8. Are you trying to figure out final length with some used shafts?
@@EFGMC Thanks! I'll probably keep the same shafts (C-Taper Lite S) but at the moment I'm just playing with a couple swing weight and MOI calculators to see how they flow into my wedges (Glide Forged with KBS Tour S). I've got the wedges taken apart here but the irons are in FL. Using your head weights as placeholders, but I know I'll have to actually take them apart eventually to get them accurate. Thanks again.
Hi, just a tip from me, instead of putting shaft together with rubber band, have a few grips (used, cheaper, in different models/weight ) which are cut open. Then you just put it on the shaft and sits perfectly when meassuering swingweight! When assembling clubs i like to spine shafts and afterwards put head on using a fishing line to find where it needs to sit to go straight trought the ball. I tried a trackman test before and after spining shafts and it does affect dispersion. The longer the club the more impact it has. Otherwise great videos, thanks.
I used cut grips for a long time but then was told it can lead to inconsistent shaft depth and length since the steel shafts start to cut into the rubber over time. Also it just gives an approximation of the weight, which can be off spec by a gram or more besides just stock weights all being slightly different. My way, at least I know the weight is right on. Though honestly, either method probably gets the same result within 1 SWP so I say do whatever you prefer.
Won't get into the spining.😁 If it works for you and as long as you aren't paying someone $30 per shaft to do it, I have no problems with it.
Thanks for watching!
@@EFGMC I do the spining myself :) so its cheap.
Great Job I tend to use an old grip which is slit all the way down to put on the shaft when checking the swing weight.
Also some of your tip weights looked large what swing weight did they end up at when finished?
thanks
I use the slit grip method sometimes, just have to be careful that the shaft doesn't start cutting into the grip cap and throw off the weight.
SW on these came out to D3. These heads were all quite light to start with. Thanks for watching. Sorry for the slow reply. These youtube comments don't always alert me when they show up.
Nice job, great video and well explained. If I wanted to do this myself what tools are must haves and what ones are nice to have but not absolutely necessary? Thank you!
Start with this video. I do the entire build using very basic tools.
ruclips.net/video/rwKquntylmM/видео.html
How to save and reuse your grips video!
ruclips.net/video/wpVbsmVshyw/видео.html
I like this video very much, just one question: you had to use very large tip weights to balance the clubs. Is a weight at this size not affecting the feel at impact? I am asking because I should do the same, and I am thinking about let the lead tape behind the middle of the club like I did try out for the real feel.
love the content. I have a few questions. 1. you appear to be using the taper tip shafts which are iron specific. how do you determine which shaft goes in which iron? does the 5 iron shaft always go in a 5 iron? What if you have stronger lofted clubs (6 iron at traditional 5 iron loft). would you pair the shaft to the iron based on loft, desired playing length, weight? 2. do you bother taking into account the weight of the tape and epoxy for swing weighting? 2 layers of tape could easily reduce the sw by a point. 3. how do you balance grip preference with the overall weight and swingweight of a club? I like the MCC+4 align midsize but they are 67g. I would have to put a significant amount of tip weight to balance it out, but then I may make the overall weight too heavy. Thanks again!
Good Questions. If you put a 5I shaft into a 6I it will play stronger or a 6I shaft into a 5I will play softer. I install the grip on to the shaft prior to swing weighting the head to account for grip and tape weight. Epoxy is about point 1 SW.
great video, thanks, going to build my sons Apex 19s this week. You didnt go into detail about tip weighting however, or it wasn't shown. Where does the label go traditionally when rotating the shaft once its been glued in? thanks
Tip weighting basic rule is 2 grams per 1 swing weight point change. I like to weigh all the heads first and check if they have a constant 7g change. That gives a good indication of how much weight I might need to add to get everything in line.
If you are talking about the graphics on the shaft, you can align them however you choose. I always default to logo down. If you are talking about shaft band stickers, they usually go an inch or so below the grip.
Aj, great video. Straight forward layman approach instead of the usual engineering talk that lulls you asleep halfway through. How did you know your heads were light? Is there a book that lists the club weight from manufacturers?
It can be hard to find exact specs and the OEM websites will not have them but you can usually find some different charts online or look at some component club brands (like Maltby who shows the head weights) to get an idea where the weight should be for a blade style or GI iron.
@@EFGMC Thanks. It can be overwhelming searching the net for club specs, only to find yourself chasing your tail. Thanks for the info, Jon
You are brave to do the video un a nice Polo. I've ruined many shirts when putting on grips and the solvent squirts back on my shirt and seems almost always to happen when I forget to put on the apron. Well done video keep em coming.
I always do a side step when installing grips for just that reason. Also try and go smooth with it to lower the pressure so it doesn't spray out like a fire hose.
Hi, A great, easy to follow video. Searching all over the web for this question and no luck.... Have you or anyone you know reshafted the TM Sim irons? I’m asking as I’m trying not to run into any surprises along the way. That happened with the Ping G700’s. Pings used to be soooo easy. Not so much anymore. Actually had to send back to Ping... $$$ Thanks and glad I came across your site
I haven't done any Sims. M5 is the most recent I've done. No issues there. Have not heard of any weirdness with the Sim. Would recommend just pulling one iron head for inspection before getting into the whole set. If you see anything odd, let me know.
Thank you so much for not only the reply, but a fast one!! Some of the online bigger golf stores should take notice of excellent customer service like this.
Sorry, A ps.... love your work setup and very envious!!
Hello.
Nice video. I'm more and more interested to build my own set.
But I wonder : swingweight is a static measurement, while MOI is a dynamic one.
So, I start to think that it's better to have the same MOI on every club than the same weight.
Some people agree with you. I have done sets using MOI matching and personally never found a benefit from it for myself but I know others who like that feel. The simple way to do it is progressively SW the set going .6 SWP (swing weight points) per iron going heavier from long iron to short.
Hey Mobile Clubmaker! thanks for the video - liked and subscribed! I just pulled my first shaft thanks to your video. Now I need some epoxy so I can install one but I have a question about the ferrule. I'm going to reuse a pulled shaft and the ferrule got a little melted. Do I just keep heating that to remove the old ferrule and install a new one once I reinstall the shaft? thanks again!
RUclips_isn't_letting_spacebar_work.??_You_will_need_new_ferrule_if_the_old_one_is_deformed.Just_use_little_more_heat_to_get_it_off.
Those are some awesome shafts, if you've got the game for them. Low spins, medium ball fight. If you don't, you'll be reshafting those irons and selling them on eBay. You lost me on the propane torch. Just get a heat gun. You drill out that hosel anymore and you're going to turn those .355 heads into .370's. Why would you use graphite shafts when they've perfected steel (lite now)? They're a pain to replace. Nice video. Nice little plastic cups too ;-)
I have one of each. Torch is always faster but don't love to use it on painted finishes. KBS Tours are working great. Only issue is the high balance point requiring extra head weight during assembly but other than that. Probably picked up half a club worth of distance with them.
Awesome video!! Just a brief question, how do you match swing weight prior to shafting? I'd love to match with tip weights rather than lead tape, but no idea if it's feasible since the only way I know to measure swing weight is after shafting. Is there a quick and dirty way using head weight prior to shafting?
If you cut the shafts to playing length before assembly. If you have a SW scale, you can then rubber band the grip onto the end of the club where it would sit and take the measurement with the head just on the shaft but not epoxied. Just be careful that you don't drop the head when moving things.
You could also go ahead and grip the shafts beforehand to make the measuring easier. You can also place a piece of fishing line over the shaft tip and them insert it into the hosel to temporarily hold the head on without epoxy.
If you do the fishing line and preinstalled grip, you can also use an online swing weight calculator if you don't have a real one.
great video, it would be even better if you listed all of the brands of materials you used... just a suggestion
I don't recommend use a drill with sandpaper, the best way is a bottoming ream to the exact size of the hole. If you know the size of the hole then purchase a bottom ream that size. It will clean it out without any problems.
Great videos. I like the way you simplify the process. And here's my question. I'm thinking about taking a set of irons and making a one length set out of them. I see lots of videos about finding the spine of the shaft and F.L.O. checking. Do I really need to find the spine if I line the head up correctly oriented to oscilation?
Thanks for watching. There are various viewpoints on Spine, FLO, PURE etc. My take (and I am planning some videos on the subject) is it does not matter if a shaft is oriented or not. Two main reasons. First, the shaft is bending not in a single plane, but in countless planes as it rotates during the swing so trying to align a shaft in any one orientation disregards all the other ways it bends during the swing. Second, if a shaft is "round" and bends the same around it's circumference, alignment is not going to benefit you. If a shaft is out of round to a point where say logo up produces a stiff equivalent flex but logo 90 degrees from there produces an R flex, that shaft is junk and should never have made it out of the factory.
All that being said, if you are doing it yourself and not paying for it, then I say go for it if it gives you more confidence. As far as which direction to install if you do, some people will say with spine pointing on target line and some will say at 12 o clock position. I think more people lean towards the 12 o clock method but again I don't believe in it myself so don't have a dog in that fight.
@@EFGMC Thank you very much for the response. So, I guess I'll go for it. I'll try to match swing weights and see how well, or not so well, it works. Again, thank you. I look forward to seeing more of your videos on this subject.
To answer your question about Spine and FLO aligning the shaft, I would have to say after 17 years of doing both on ALL of my clubs and any I build for customers, I would NEVER think to play a club that I did not do the Spine and FLO alignment work on the shafts. Does it make a difference? YES IT DOES. To prove my statement, let me tell you a story of when I was looking to buy a used driver to re-build for myself. I found two drivers, exact same make and model, same factory shaft, same flex. Only difference was one driver the head looked like new, the other the head had a number of clips broken off the paint on the crown of the head. Well used to say the least. I decided to hit both on a launch monitor to see how they felt and performed. The driver with the like new head was terrible. EVERY ball I hit I hit a big fat SLICE with it. The driver with the well worn head, I hit it DEAD STRAIGHT and long. Same drivers remember. The worn driver was $20 cheaper that the like new one, but the worn one performed well and the pretty one was terrible. Maybe that's why the pretty one was still pretty, it never to use because it didn't perform. So I decided to buy both to see what I could do with the pretty one to get it to perform like the ugly one. I pulled the shaft from the pretty one, did a Spine and FLO alignment job on it and then re-installed it in the head and put the grip back on. Went back to the store and re-tested the pretty one on the monitor and this time I could hit it just fine. NO SLICE this time, just nice straight and long drives like the ugly one I tested. Bottom line here. SAME shaft, Spine and FLO aligned, it the same head, same grip, went from a nasty SLICE to a nice straight and long drive. Does Spine and FLO alignment make a difference. I'LL LET YOU DECIDE.
IF you would like more prove, I can give you lots of cases where doing the Spine and FLO alignment work did wonders for the performance of the clubs.
@@donfisher6659 I'm definitely interested in learning more about this before I start this build. I'd like to speak with you about it, if possible. If you're on FB, my profile is under my name and the profile pic is of my business Reaper Arsenal-South. I look forward to hearing from you.
@@jasoncampbell501 I'd be happy to talk to you about how important Spine and FLO alignment of the shaft is to how the club will perform when it is assembled. I looked on FB and found LOTS of Jason Campbells but not you as far as I could tell. I do have a FB account and you can find me under Don Fisher. I'm in Aurora, Colorado. I'm NOT a big user of FB and have only used it once or twice since I signed up to make a friend happy. Maybe YOU can find me on FB and get it touch with me so we can talk.
what brand shirt are you wearing? Also nice shafting video, very helpful!
Those shafts look awesome! Nice work. I'm changing parallel to taper tip shafts. First time switching shafts. So, if I've got this correct I need to use a shim? Do I always need a tip weight? -I don't have a swing weight scale.
Yes to the shims. If you are concerned about the swing weight, you can dry fit the club together before epoxying and use an online SW calculator or app to get a very good idea what the SW will be. Just make sure you measure accurately and the calculator will be very good.
@@EFGMC Thank you!
Amazing! Thank you! Question, the small brass looking dowels that you slid into the end of the shafts right after applying the epoxy, just before you slid the new shaft into the club head, are those weights? Did they come with your new shafts? The black nickeled finish looks so good!
Those are tip weights you buy separately. They come in different sizes, weights, and versions for steel and graphite shafts.
Great video, thanks! Can you tell me what solvent you used at the end to “re-shine” the ferrule? Mine are always dull after turning down. Thanks again!
That was just grip solvent, but I have also used mineral spirits when I run out of solvent. That step really isn't even necessary if you can brush on the acetone lightly enough and have the ferrule very smooth to start with (using extra fine sand paper).
@@EFGMC you can use another belt on your cutter/belt sander, to turn down ferrules, simple and easy, then just aceone in a cloth and turn it fast once or twice, job done :)
@@sving8530 All true. But as many people don't have a belt sander at home but almost everyone has some sandpaper, I use that method in the vids.
Great video! What vice are you using when you're installing the gips?
Came from Golfworks. They have a few different versions.
Question? Were the Mizuno heads what they refer to as B heads? It appeared the tip weight you used was heavy. My heads are B heads and I wasn't sure I could use that much weight in the shaft. I enjoyed watching you work.
I'm not sure. Got them used, however they were standard length to start with which makes me think they were just the standard weight heads, not the over length light ones. They had the Modus3 120s in them and I switched into KBS Tour so that is where the main weight "issue" came from. Modus being tip heavy and KBS being more counter balanced.
You can add as much weight as you want to the heads. I have 10g in some of the heads and the shafts don't feel loose in the slightest to me at least.
Thanks for your support!
Hi like your videos very much was wondering can you re use ferrells
Sometimes but it takes a lot of extra care to not damage them during the breakdown phase. Also if they are on graphite shafts, then no.
Personally it's almost never worth the effort to save them unless you have no other option.
@6:03 pulling shaft with no grip. You can also just place the shaft in a vice with a shaft protector and twist the head.
Great vid! How much does brass tip weigh?
The ones I used were 6g here.
I recall from some of your vidz you like a 7g difference between clubs in total weight. Does that hold true for AMT shafts too or should i just focus on the swing weight? I’m planning on installing AMT White S300 shafts in a set of T200 iron heads to play around…my gamers are T100S irons with Project X LZ 6.0 shafts…
The 7g rule is based off the assumption you are stepping in 1/2 inch intervals through the set. I think the balance point is pretty consistent in the AMT even with the weight changes.
thank you. seeing your vid takes away a lot of the fear
Most of the time, it's very straight forward. If you run into any questions, just post it here.
Sorry for the basic question but how far does the shaft extend into the head? does it go all the way down into the available space?
Yes, the correct size shaft should touch the bottom of the hosel. Usually it's around an inch to 1 1/4 deep. If the shaft is getting stuck and not bottoming out, you might have the wrong diameter shaft, need to further clean out the hosel to remove debris, or ream out the hosel to enlarge the opening (last resort).
Just discovered your channel. Great stuff! Two questions:
1. Do two layers of tape effect swing weight (I’m guessing no for the average hacker).
2. When putting the second layer of tape on, do you ever reverse the direction (second layer installed on the bottom of the club & wrapped upwards) so you can’t feel the seam created on the bottom (or again, doesn’t apply to the weekend warrior-we can’t “feel” that seam thru a grip?).
Thanks!
It takes 4-5 grams of butt end weight to change the SW 1pt so I don't worry about it. SW is really about consistency through the set of irons so the important thing is that you are doing the same thing to every iron in the set.
As for layering, 2 layers you could reverse or just double up. Most shafts will be wide enough after the first layer that the second does not end up overlapping with itself. Anything over 2 layers I do alternate direction mainly so they can't all peel off if you get a little solvent on them before you're ready to install the grips. (This is especially important if doing grips in the cold, where the adhesive does not stick as well to the shaft).
@@EFGMC Makes perfect sense! Thanks for replying.
When the shafts come are they all the same size? Are you cutting each shaft to a different length to match the iron standard length or do they already per iron? Do you already have video on shaft lengths for irons?
Because these are .355 tip shafts to go into the Mizuno's, the manufacturer has constructed the shaft to bend appropriately for the give iron head it matches with. If you were using .370 shafts in something like Callaway Big Bertha irons, you would usually need to cut the tip amount a certain length to play correctly in the iron head.
After that, you would just be butt cutting to the final desired length and that would be the same regardless of tip size (.355 or .370).
Do you have links for the tools and solvents you used or a list that could be used? Thanks, I really enjoyed it.
I don't have a full list of what I use though I do cover it in some videos. Might try this one where I did the build with only basic everyday tools.
ruclips.net/video/rwKquntylmM/видео.html
Question, say I buy clubs second hand, along with some shaft pulls in my preferred brand/flex. Should I still measure for swingweight? Ex. T100S irons with the PX LZ 6, getting AMT White X100.
The most important thing in regards to swing weight is ensuring all the irons have a similar feel to them. The actual number isn't as important. Really just making sure your 6 iron isn't drastically heavier than your 7 iron etc. Weighing all your component pieces before you begin is an easy way to ensure more consistent SW. 7-8g between each head will give you a good uniform SW progression. This assumes you are building with a standard length progression (1/2 inch per club).
Just started learning how to change my iron shafts! A few questions... 1) Is it advisable to clean the inside of the hosel right after taking out the shaft while it's still hot and the epoxy soft? 2) If there's rust inside the hosel, is it advisable to clean it using WD40 or is that a bad idea?
Yes always clean out the heads while they are still hot and the epoxy is soft. Otherwise you will have a tough time removing it.
Rust can just be removed with a wire brush or sand paper dowel on a drill. Follow that with a q tip dipped in acetone or rubbing alcohol to remove any last bits or oils.
Never use WD40 is my view.
Does it matter which way the shaft faces as you install into the head. The look great without the labels.. M
Could you let me know what type of equipment you have brands and where to buy them. Sander, cutter, swing weight scale, shaft puller, scale, as I am looking to get started in building my own clubs, reshafting, regripping, etc.,
The SW scale is from Golfsmith which is no longer in business. The shaft puller and cutter are from Golfworks. Can also find SW scales there. Rulers, drills, sand paper, etc, good old Home Depot. Loft Lie machine is also from Golfworks.
Fantastic video but please could you tell me what liquid is in the plastic bottle when attaching the grip?
Grip solvent, which is a mineral spirits based product.
Great work there thanks. My question is ....which manufacturers match the swing weight on new clubs? And is it important to frequency match your clubs?
All the OEMs say they do, and usually they are pretty close to spec. On occasion you will find some random club out of spec but it's rare.
Some people believe in frequency matching but I do not. I think flex overall is overrated in it's influence. I do think it's important to have similar feel through the bag for all the clubs so having similar flexing is important but I would never bother trying to hit exact cpm numbers believing that would make a true difference.
I do believe however that weight is very important and that is where I always focus my attention. Consistent weight and weight progression are a bigger deal for me, and since weight has such a strong influence on the flex in a shaft, taking care of it, usually gets the other about where it should be.
@@EFGMC thanks for the detailed response sir. I am considering my first new set in over 20 years and have been trialling Mizuno, Ping, Callaway. If they all match swing weight then which weight would they work to or can the customer specify at the time of ordering?
@@JettyBuilder If you are ordering, they can match a requested swing weight assuming you don't ask for something wild like C5 and the clubs are 1 inch over standard.
very nice job and thanks for the easy explanation ,I am thinking to switch my from steel to graphite ,one question how I know the size of the tip most of the shafts I see said .370 size I want the weight 70 grams ,
can you recomend a website to buy them by the way my iron are cobra F max .Thank for you time
I would look at Golfworks. Lots of shafts, also have a table that tells you the recommended replacement shafts for most any irons. This includes giving you the specs including whether the heads are .370 or .355
Pretty sure yours are .370
@@EFGMC thanks 🙏 a lot for taking the time to respond to my questions and for the great tips
Thanks for all your videos! Awesome! Just a quick question from your expertise, I have just re shafted my son ( he is 16, +1 hdcp), we have gone from the Nippon Pro Modus 105 (s) to the Dynamic Gold Tour issue (120 gram S400), to keep the flight down a little lower. When pulling out the shafts we notice a brass weight on the bottom, the manufacture said keep them in however now the swing weight has gone from D2 to D5/6. What are you thoughts? I thought maybe Iet him hit a few and see what he says and then maybe have to take all the heads off again and take out the weight, but before I do that I thought I would ask the expert. Thanks!
That heavier shaft will add swing weight so the brass weights are likely not necessary. You might need different weights to ensure all the irons SW out similar but will need smaller weight ones for that.
Thanks AJ, I think I will let him hit one first and then if need be, I will have to take the heads all off again :-(. Although I think SW is a matter of feel, definitely the overall mass has increased with the heavier shaft. Cheers@@EFGMC
I'm getting my MP18 MMC irons reshafted with DG 120 X100's from DG R300's myself! I'm excited. I also am reshafting my MP20 HMB 3 iron while I'm at it. I noticed the MP20 HMB has a recessed bit for a collared ferrule. I was going to use the same ferrules I got for my MP18's, but it doesn't look like I'll be able to do that. Would it really affect it that much? Or should I go ahead and get some collared .355 ferrules like the golfworks or billy bob's ones? Cheers.
Never think you need a collared ferrule. Get whatever design you want regardless of collar. Epoxy will fill in that gap during assembly and perform the same task as a plastic collar.
@@EFGMC thanks a lot for the quick reply! Love the channel. Really informative stuff.
Hi AJ, I really like my G425 irons, but as age has crept up with me so has my swing speed slowed down. Question here, it possible to re shaft my irons with a senior flex graphite shafts? I made a mistake many many years ago and sold my Wilson Staff (stiff) blades and bought Ping Zing 2 irons with Reg shafts instead of re shafting and I don’t want to make the same mistake again.
Yes they can be reshafted. You can send me a message if you want a price quote.
AJ, Any idea of how to remove an adapter from shaft without extractor tool?
If you don't want to save the old shaft, you can simply heat the tip and twist it apart. The shaft will be compromised but should come out in one piece. If it frays a little and leaves carbon fibers in the adapter, a wire brush or drill can remove those pretty simply when the epoxy is warm.
If you want to save the shaft, you will need some sort of extractor to pull the shaft without twisting.
If you are removing the grips with an air compressor you need to leave the heads on until the grips are removed. Otherwise the air will blow straight out the tip of the shaft where the head had been and will not remove the grip. After removing the grips you could then lock the shaft in a vice with a rubber shaft clamp and twist the heads off with heat.
You could also just pull the heads and not clean out the shaft tips so you still have the air tight seal for air removal. Then go back and clean the tips out.
@@EFGMC - Sometimes that works. Sometimes, after removing the head, there is no epoxy plug to block the flow of air. I have had both happen.
AJ, did you weigh the shafts also? I did not see that part. Or does weighing the shafts really not matter? Thanks for the video.
I didn't. It's highly unlikely that you are going to have a steel shaft outside of weight tolerances. And I bought these as a set from an eBay seller, so if one was off, it would have been a hassle to get it replaced at best.
What solvent did you use to clean any epoxy from head or shaft after epoxying new shaft to head? Was it grip solvent? Also what solvent was used to shine the ferrule after wiping ferrule with acetone? Was that also grip solvent?
Yes, grip solvent for both. I however no longer use grip solvent with the ferrule turning. Just use texture free rag or paper towel and extremely light strokes and the results are better and faster than what I show in this video.
Rookie question. If I need to cut a shaft for a TM M4 5i which is 38.50 per the TM website do I measure from shaft tip to butt without the head?
38.5 is the playing length so you would measure from the base of the club head hosel up the back of the shaft to 38.25 inches. The grip will give you the final .25 inches.
Thank you for the video. My only question I have.. I noticed you did not perform a shaft spine alignment. Is spine alignment recommended or is a hoax? I appreciate your comment.
I think that if a shaft needed alignment you probably shouldn't be using that shaft. I've done a number of videos testing between PURE or Spine or FLO vs not and have yet to see any results that proves it's value.
What ferrule do you recommend to keep them as uniform as possible? 3/4" or 1"? The clubs have a .355 tip
Personal preference. If you have a caliper, you can measure the hosel outer diameter and try and match up a ferrule with a similar outer diameter.
Can you do a video replacing old Big Bertha bore through graphite shafts with new ones? I may have bitten off more than I can chew with this project. Need some help.
Those just have a couple extra steps. I don't have a set available to do a demo on. The main differences are you will need to sand down the shaft tips a bit because the hosels taper in at the bottom a little. Hand sand them until they just pass though the hole in the sole. Obviously one side of the shaft will be sticking further through because of the angle. Just make sure that the shaft is at least even with the sole on the short side.
Epoxy as with any club remembering to wipe off the sole in addition to the hosel.
Once dry, sand down the graphite tip until it's flush with the sole.
Next you need to buy some graphite shaft pins. You will need to epoxy these into the hole in the shaft as a separate step. Once dry you can cut off the excess with clippers or a hack saw.
Again sand it down and then some light finishing sand paper and acetone wipe like you would with a ferrule.
That's it.
I'm hitting Taylormade burner clubs that are stiff shafts. I am considering re-stafting them. My question is, since they are several years old are they worth re-shafting? My age is becoming a factor also. Your opinion would be welcomed.
Will come down to the condition of the heads and if you are happy with the lofts on them. Also are you doing the work vs having the work done?
Question. What if you have fancy ferrules with upgraded stripes or logos? Will sanding the ferrules strip that? Enjoyed the video...
I would stay below the striping during the sanding. To be honest I have never worked with any super elaborate ferrules with design all the way down, so I am not sure how they would react to sanding and acetone.
If you have ferrules like that, I would sacrifice one and just see what happens from sanding and finishing acetone on a shaft without head attached.
@@EFGMC really appreciate the response. I enjoyed your club building techniques. Clean and thorough! Be well, sir!
When I popped the shaft into the head after glueing it felt quite lose and looked like it wanted to move around.
Is there something I would have missed or not used enough Epoxy ?
Depending on the heads, some will have a very loose hosel. Callaway, Ping, PXG all have this. You ideally need to fill that gap either with brass shims or drywall mesh tape in order to center the shaft.
I recently ordered some steelfiber shafts for my set of ZX5's and am super excited. I contacted my local big box golf retailer and seems pretty affordable to do a reshaft for my irons. I'm afraid if I go with them, they will not be as detailed, particularly with the weighting, and that I'll end up with some mismatched weighting (PW-D1, 9i-D4, 5i-C7... you catch my drift). Do you or anyone else have any input on this?
Any big box store will be a roll of the dice as to what you will get. Might get someone good, might not. I can tell you that they don't pay attention to SW. They are only going to just glue and go. If you want it done right you need to find an independent club builder or you can ship them to me!
If you are interested in that, just email me.
aj@smartstake.com
@@EFGMC sent email!
Do you have a video on the channel going through all the tools you needed here? Maybe with some affiliate links?
Just say you’re not strong enough to pull em apart 😂 Great vid
When measuring length of shaft are you measuring end of shaft to top of hozzel? Thanks
Use this. Minute 3:55
ruclips.net/video/IJtw_gzy8Sk/видео.html
Hello. That’s from 3 years ago. Have you changed clubs since then. Did your dispersion changed? Did you use and swing optimizer? Thanks.
I change clubs every year at least because I get bored and I need new content!! About to build a new set in a week or two.
Greetings. I will soon reshaft my very first wedge (from 105gr dynamic gold to 750 wrap tech shaft): Is 350° hot air enough or do I need 550? Do i need glass shafting beads? When do you recommend them? Also, the lable says "max. 2% wrt the amount of epox", but how can I ensure that with very basic home crafting tools? Thanks in advance for help, hope I don not mess up things (still afraid the ferrule will melt when I remove the blade from the shaft).
Most epoxy has a glass transition state around 200F so you should be able to remove it around that temp. That being said, some older epoxies require a good bit more heat. If it's a newer club, 350 should do it, if older, may need hotter or torch.
Anything under 5% for beads is fine. You can eyeball it. I usually use them because they are in my shop but I don't know that I would buy them if they weren't.
Wrap a wet paper towel around the ferrule before applying heat. That will give you a better chance of not melting it.
@@EFGMC Thx a lot for replying and for the incredible video help!