Replacing a consumer unit that set on fire
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- Опубликовано: 27 янв 2021
- Replacing a consumer unit that set on fire
Join us as Cory & Oscar replace the melted consumer unit from the previous video which caught fire!
👀 Watch the original video of the consumer unit fire here: • Consumer Unit Fire
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Thanks to Hager for Sponsoring this video: You can join Hager Gang Rewards here and use our code "Jordan150" for a stash of 150 free bonus points! www.hagergangrewards.com
Only in the UK... Hager Netherlands has no rewards program, no bleu screwdriver for the Dutch :(
"when the electricians come before the drywall crew"
As a chartered electrical engineer hearing these explanations make me very happy! Well done chaps!
I love the thoroughness of the work, and agree totally with the comments about torquing every screw in a consumer unit, whether or not it is your installation work. It verifies that on the day you carried out the work required, everything was done according to the manufacturer’s specification. In these times when everyone seems to be looking for someone else to blame you need to cover yourself both in working practice and documentation.
Oscar is getting an excellent introduction to working practice.
Cory is always quite impressive in his knowledge and how he conveys it. I know engineers double his tenure that still have trouble communicating theory to apprentices.
He’s a good lad
Great explanation on earthing and bonding. Found it helpful and the water analogy was great. Always useful to be reminded about the difference between the two.
Water is such a fun analogy for electricity. Pressure/Flow and Voltage/Current.
Thankyou Jordan in being patient the guys did a thorough job and gave Oscar some great learning opportunities. With great guys like these you are investing in the business and their talent.
Well done for taking the time to help apprentices. 👏
Good explanation Corey.
Cory - That was a classic explanation of simultaneously accessible exposed conductive parts, which is a reason of equipotential bonding.
Yes. Earthing and bonding understood by a electrician. This is a rare occasion. 👍
Yes!
We all still just call anything green/yellow earth tho 😀 or is that just me ?
If the new proposed regs for reinforce concrete floors go through there be even less sparkies understanding earthing and bonding
@@Cablesmith
In our country earth is brown and the plants are green .... UK seems to be a little special🤔😁
@@UserName-yk7om 😂😂😂
9:12 Cory you're too kind not letting Oscar go and get a new bubble for the level 😆😆😆
That's a thing we do here too. Fooling the new apprentices. In german a level is called "Wasserwaage", literally (water scale). We send them to get balance weights for it. Spare air bubble is also a thing. DC transformer, felt electrode, filter for nuclear energy,
Or they should get a special trash can for the "Spannungsabfall" we'll get (Spannungsabfall is the voltage drop, but Abfall is also the german word for trash).
traumshop.net/eng/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Voltage_drop.jpg
And there are many others in other trades...
Zinc plated copper file, aluminium magnet, click cartridges for ratchets (so they keep on clicking), square drill (also in the variety of triangle drill), bucket of compressed air, Siemens air hooks, file grease (so the file won't squeak), screwdriver for left-handed threads, hoseless showerhead, arc arrows, frequency straightener, frequency deformer, refill colour for the flat screen, hammer with adjustable impact, slot hole drill and so on.
@@Marcel_Germann LOL these are so good I forgot any of the ones that I've known.
@@imark7777777 there's always getting them to catch the grinder sparks, and telling the to go to the store for a long weight (wait)
Can you do an electrician's 101 series?
I would like to learn from you about the technical side of this job 🤓
Hope you're paying Corey enough, better to have him employed rather than as competition with that level of knowledge and articulation:-0
excellent video Cory, your explanation of Earthing and Bonding was spot on another great job.
Great job teaching Cory !
A brave man to explain bonding 😂
Excellent explanation about bonding and earthing. Awesome, as always, chaps.
I am currently training to be an electrical engineer. Oscar is a lucky lad to have a mentor like you Cory.
The explanation was spot-on Cory!
I am surprised that the residents didn't replace the burned/sooted wall before putting in the new electrics.
Yes I was thinking the same - it makes me wonder what the decorators are going to do. I'm invisaging a CU hanging off the wall suspended from its cables while a painter gets in behind it with sugar soap...
YOU MIGHT BE BACK SOONER THAN YOU THINK CORY! :D
Yeah I've been thinking that the whole time. A good bit of soap and water should clean it up and what's left can be taken care of with a paint product at least in the US called kills.
However there's a lot of surfaces underneath things that weren't touched and the smell could take a good while to clean.
CORY YOU EXPLAINED WELL.GOOD MAN CORY.
This new guy Cory is awesome 👌
Cody, you are so good in explaining issues with Oscar, you really are a great guy - cheers 😃👌👏👏👏❤️
Cory you have an excellent attitude & high standards.👍🏼 You have good all round knowledge of your trade. You'll be an absolute asset to Jordan's Artisan Electrics Company.😊 You'll be a brilliant educator for Oscar.🙂
Very well explained!
Nice one Cory and Oscar 🙌🙌
😁👍
Get him on the podcast please. What’s his background? Is he from Cambridge?
@nbundyelectrical
Competition for the Kopex Queen crown!
Nice one Cory. Well explained.
The lighting in the last 2-3 seconds definitely given Cory a Blaire Which Project vibe 😀😂
Jokes aside, another great video!
REALLY awesome explanation of main earth vs main bonds...
Well explained Cory
Nice job in an an atmosphere of particulate matter. I do like the new Hager board, a few little tweaks hear and there can make a huge difference.
Excellent vid from the dynamic duo.
Great explanation on earthing v bonding - very clear! Keep up great work 👍
Earthing & bonding best explanation ever! Finally I got it 👍
A convoluted explanation but not bad !. The principals of earth bonding are as you described - ensuring that large amounts of metal within the house (radiators, boiler, gas meter, water pipes, metal baths etc) are held at earth potential - the same earth as the whole electrical installation in the house, the earths are all returned to the same point. The reasons are that things like the gas boiler will have electronic and electrical components to it, these appliances will be earthed, but there could be some leakage of mains potential via power supplies in them. Sometimes the pipes to and from them are not at “mains earth”. If you discover something that isn’t bonded, try measuring the potential difference between that pipe/radiator etc and mains earth (incoming earth at supply point) you will be surprised at the voltage that appears !. You can also experience earth “loops” because the earths on some things are not bonded together at the same point. The earth wires are generally the largest practicable to ensure the least electrical resistance over some distance. Whether the earth clamp to a pipe or system is permanently good is another story !...and what about plastic push fit plumbing fittings that break the earth bonding ? good video keep them coming...
Good video, Funny to see how you do it in your country! I have been an electrician for a couple of years. I always like to give the installed wire a little pull, just to make sure that it is not loose, sometimes the torque is fine, but that is just not enough.
Towards the end of the video; get that 50hz "hum" when you bring the camera close...lol. Great job in a hard situation; well done as ever.
Thats a NICE install! 👍👍
Pretty good explanation !
Cory you good job
Nice work big lad 👌🏼 very tidy !
👍😁
That "funky" socket was an MK Mini Logic socket. From the 70's, MK offered this smaller accessory size. There was a 1G and 2G socket and light switches too. They were not designed for flush mounting and came with their own pattress. The sockets at least are still available.
What where the clips you used, on the copex containing the tails? Cheers great video.
Nice work 👍
I think bonding is also used to stop electro-chemical reactions like corrosion, depending on the application.
Also metal parts close to high-voltage lines are bonded and earthed to prevent corrosion and to make sure that all parts are on ground-potential to avoid accidents, is this correct?🤓
So right earthing vs bonding
Oscar is getting one hell of an apprenticeship hope he appreciates how lucky he is
What a fantastic asset to your company this man is Jordan. Absolutely love hearing his excellent explainations and seeing his first class work.
Thanks yeah he’s a great addition to the team
Stay safe and do good electrics. Nice catch phrase😀
nice explanation of bonding v earthing.... Oscar has struck it lucky following Cory i think...
Great job and after all the hard work didn’t you have a bulb for the boiler room?
Mounting the central heating controller in the trucking is something I would never do. It is bad practice to do so. Remember some time in the future a different sparks may need to work on that DB an the CH programer is in there way and they can't remover that trucking lid
What is your thought about 18th edition. Metal fuse board but ok to extend cables in plastic junction box?
If you haven't, can I suggest you do a video on 'PVC Cancer' we just had to have our whole house (1970s) rewired as we were affected by it. The video might be a good learning video, as I'd never heard of it!
Was that due to “plasticizer migration” - PVC insulated cables in contact with polystyrene insulation - or some other chemical reaction?
@@ChristianWagner888 Just the chemical reaction due to the original PVC insulation produced between 1969 and 1971 being inferior.
As far as i learned bonding is not only in case of an electrical fault, but also neccessary in the event of an electrostatic discharge. especially when (gas-) pipes often with insulation build up a charge which can lead to tiny arcs between some of them. And therefore there was proper earth- and bonding connections between pipes even before there were electrical appliances. At least thats what my grandpa (also an electrician) told me one time.
10:58 Good job Oscar 😎
Man, I need to get a torque screwdriver. Last week I rewired my family's wood storage room and I was so parranoid of leaving a loose connection that I stripped the bloody screws inside of a connector block 😂
I am just wondering can I put two more . 2 gang sockets in my bed room as all I have got is two on one wall and that is it please let me know thank you and keep up the good work you are doing .👍
Awesome explanation, I don't find much faults with it.
There is also the concept that if a fault came in contact with the pipe it would create a low resistance path to trip the breaker, and thus avoiding your pipe work and kitchen sink being at a high voltage and touching your refrigerator and stove which is grounded. Bonding the piping systems and metal systems prevents any fault like that.
In a larger installation say a substation or a transformer room, I have read the story of a technician installing a transformer. I believe it was a Delta configuration maybe from a Y feed, got it all hooked up and something wasn't working right. he tracked the problem down to a miss wiring at the transformer causing all metal work to be at 240V potential but because all metal work was bonded he was sitting as a bird on a wire. Thankfully he didn't cross connect and lived to tell the story.
I read that on a forum post somewhere, if anybody has the link please let me know.
Power factor and bonding can be difficult mind expanders when your learning. Resistor cube puzzles can really help stick that mindset in your head and if you wanna be really evil stick some capacitors and inductors in there too.
Just to clarify, bonding conductors meet at the earth bar where they are also connected to the mean earthing conductor, correct? This also help with ground-fault currents?
Brings them too the same potential too.
I believe that with polystyrene the migration actually goes the other way, the pvc cable degrades the polystyrene, you get the goo on the cable but it comes from the polystyrene and it doesn’t degrade the insulation.
just curious: was there anything specifically that necessitated the tails going in kopex or was it just because the extra mechanical protection can't hurt?
I would say adds to mechanical protection as they are quite exposed and not in a cabinet, and also makes it look really good to the eye and show he cares about his work.
As for if the regs stipulate it I’m not to shore without looking, but you have to admit they look a lot better covered up.
I don't know for uk regs but france regs stipulate that electrical cables need to be double insulated as long as they are not inside a device (lightning, junction box, plugs, consumer unit or supply unit). So yeah you would need to put the tails inside kopex in this case.
I wonder the programer on the trunking lit is it wired or wireles?
I have heard some electricians have been using adjustable clamps to squeeze the breakers in a consumer unit wondered if ever you have tried it? To have better alignment.
I wasn’t able to retrieve the “Jordan 150 “ Hager Gang Rewards. How do you do this?
Good explanation of equipotential bonding.
Is it correct that Main bonding in a domestic installation is only to extraneous conductors, such as metal gas, oil, water pipes,? That then ensures that a voltage introduced on such a conductor from an external source (eg DNO line conductor touches a metal water main) that there is a low impedance path to earth (the MET) within the property so that someone touching the now live water pipe will not be the main path to earth.
It maintains an equipotential between the electrical system and anything that could import a voltage into the installation... Even if that's just earth voltage 0v from an extraneous buried pipe coming into the zone.
This channel is just getting better and better, loving the explanation
Thanks! We have a great team!
12:16 Nick is not going to be amused, he wanted to buy all the UK stock of kopex 😆😆😆
Nice job and video
Neat job
“Stay safe, do good electrics!” Love that saying 😂. A question for Jordan, Corey and especially Oscar, and you kinda did bring subject up. When you was panning the camera up showing the fire damage on the ceiling, I was looking at all the cobwebs and it started me thinking about spiders. And then you mentioned it to Oscar in his first loft. Do or have any of you had fears of spiders. Because the thought of going into my loft scares the hell out of me. And it probably is a subliminal (I hope that’s the correct word) reason for me never getting into the trade despite huge interest 🤣. But if any of you have or had, how do you deal with it? Because if I ask you guys and the other famous electricians, I’m sure one will come up with a genius method! And one final question with the board installation. There was a lot of blanks to the left, leaving lots of potential for future expansion. But with that many blanks, a lot seem so try and space out the rcbo’s with the blanks for better heat dissipation. Chris from CJR seems quite passionate about that. I’d hope that the manufacturers would be aware of any issues like this and state if spacing is required in any certain situations. Another great video, and a great question greatly answered!
Wow been an electrician for 40 years and never heard of pvc cables being affected by polystyrene insulation.
Earthing is primarily there to blow the "fuse" in the fault condition, it connects consumer touchable items and in the fault condition allows enough current to blow the fuse for that circuit; as you note - the total Z's for the line and earth circuit.
Because we use PME earthing in the UK (and the rest of the world), the "earth" in earthing circuit is not at earth potential - it is set by the neutral return on the 3-phase system of the distribution system. It is often 0-10V compared to bonded earth.
Bonding is there to protect a user (customer) from creating a circuit between true earth items (usually plumbing and gas) and water in places where the consumer can touch both water and metal - bathrooms - and EV cars (where we use TT earthing). When wet, a human can conduct 50mA - enough to kill you - when potentials of less than 10V, even down to 1 volt (you can electrocute yourself with a 1.5 AA battery if you put in your mouth (don't !!!!). Hence bonding is to reduce the PD to well below 1V in areas with water and metal items can be touched at the same time - like having a shower and reaching for the towel from the towel rail.
Bonding is to prevent electrocution in wet areas, earthing is to create a fault condition to blow a fuse for that circuit.
That is why long extension leads in the garden are a problem - you are extended the conductor to such a point that the fault current many not be large enough to blow a 32A (ring main) fuse even with a direct short between line/neutral. In this condition the RCCD will not trip as there is no imbalance on L/N either.
You deserve more likes and even a ♡, this is an excellent explanation!
This is correct, earthing is within the building and bonding is to the outside, true earth. The difference depends on factors such as load on the neutral, resistance of the cable, weather, wetness of the ground, distance from the substation etc. but can be considerable. I'm actually a believer in a bonded earth to an external earth plate, its surprising how ground returns can screw up sensitive electronics.
The wet human comment isn't quite correct however, a completely wet human is unlikely to be electrocuted as the current will pass over the skin through the water, indeed the higher the voltage (and frequency) the less likely you are to electrocuted (up to a point). Needless to say don't try this! However a 10ma current through the heart (eg wet hands and dry body) of only 40V can kill which is perfectly feasible between true earth (eg a bath of water) and house earth. Bonding is important!
On a side note I am surprised how often resistance and impedance (and R and Z) are used interchangeably, they are not the same. I doubt if the impedance of a consumer home is of much importance in an ECIR.
I think I would have Recommended a round LED Bulkhead light with built in Emergency Light to the Customer instead of the Pendent.
Plus washing some Sugersoap wouldn't have gone a miss it would have been cleaner for working and it would better light to work by! also it might have been easyer to drop that little Ceiling and Reboard afterwards?
bonding is very useful for dealing with static electricity........if two objects are bonded......any static being generated by a process (like movement of a liquid in a pipe) will equalize through the bond and there will be no sparks jumping across objects of different potential that could otherwise ignite flammable vapors etc.
Great work guys. Board changes are never straight-forward as there are always faults 😪. May I ask why you put a shower isolator right next to DB when you could simply isolate the RCBO?
It should have a double pole isolator for it.
@@artisanelectrics I don't use hager but I would have thought their RCBO 's would be double pole (I use fusebox and their mini ones are). I know a 45/50A isolator is required for local isolation but seems a little pointless when its right next to the board. Can understand its just to cover your back though 👍. Would obviously be better as a pullcord isolator in the shower room
Neat job, tow observations if you don't mind.
I would have given tha wall a clean in the surrounding area as it could be that anyone following you would be cleaning that area with fluids that could enter any equipent you fitted...potential for fluid ingress.
I would not fit a programmer onto trunking lid as if that lid has to be removed, one is left with a section of trunking lid in ones hand with a cable connected through it !
Otherwise,as usual,great job.
Cory, torque screwdrivers, do you unwind yours to the lowest setting after use?
I use torque ratchets,spanners and screwdrivers in my daily job, when training the trainer said to undo the tension in the torque driver to maintain a healthy spring, prevent ware and maintain its torque values till tool is next Calibrated. I think this makes sense and I've always done it.
Great videos, good job.
Deano I have never been told this but makes total sense will do this from now on also do you know how long between calibrations as did not know they needed to be thanks
I work for London underground 🚇 all our torque tool are tested every 6 to 12month. However if you think the torque is lost or wrong,you can test the torque of one device against another. set one screwdriver torque higher than the other, the lower tool torque should click first, them adjust higher torque down little by little till it loses the battle. This point of losing or clicking at the same time they should both be the same torque.
For screwdrivers its far easier to buy new than send for testing.
suprised an afdd wasent fitted given the source of the fire, any particular reason behind that?
Thats interesting i noticed how you better protected the hot meter tails. I dont understand how they let you switch the neutral with the main isolator . The cut out would be considered the main disconnect and the consumer unit a subpanel. In the USA miniature breakers are not allowed to protect branch circuits and are only meant for supplementary protection after the MOLDED CASE CIRCUIT BREAKER in the panel, distribution board AKA panel .What you call the meter tails single conductors MUST BE IN CONDUIT the three 3/0 cables if the panel is the main disconnect. If its a meter breaker combo you must have a number 4 along with the three 3/0 copper cables in 2 inch steel conduit [ 200 amp service] . The main breakers are rated 22,000 aic available fault current. The 200 amp panel panel can hold 40 single pole breakers. Grounding a no 4 wire to the street side of the water meter, a jumper around the meter, two 8 ft ground rod 6 ft apart no 6 wire. [Our plumbing hear is like your gas its type l copper sweat], a jumper no 4 above the water heater hot, cold, gas. The panel has 3 bus bars the two hots 240 volts line to line and a solid non switched neutral bar 120 volts to ground from either hot. The utility transformer has 240 volts but has a mid tap which is your grounded neutral wire. if you touch something live you will be hit with 120 not 240 volts. We use GFI outlets in places around water. In my area the whole house is done in steel conduit & large steel boxes.Im a licensed electrician in the United states. Sadly in other locals you can use ROMEX and plastic outlet boxes hate this. Also in other places you can use aluminum for you larger circuits hate aluminum.
I only use copper bus panels & copper wire & cables .I HATE ALUMINUM!!
Cory is a fantastic electrician, wouldn’t trust anyone else with my electrics in my house
Great vid..really enjoyed that one
Jordan slowly building his empire haha, be the next Charlie Mullins in 10 years, can just see that fleet of teslas driving around Cambridge lol
😁👍😂
Loves a torque screwdriver. Those didn't exist when I was your age.
I still check every screw for tightness if I open a consumer unit, regardless if it's been there for an hour or a decade.
Is a *wonder* lead something that helps with pondering the big questions of life as you *wander* around the house? eg "I *wonder* if there's CPC continuity here?"
😂
Looks like Oscar needs a belt.
🤦♂️👍
Think the bird on the wire, or better yet when they work on 500KV lines with helicopters, they have the bonding rod that they attach from the chopper to the line so that everything is sitting at that same potential and can work on the line. This energies the chopper and installation people wearing their Faraday cage suit (to prevent corona discharge issues) to the same potential as line voltage so nobody gets shocked.
Always sleep sounder knowing you’ve done it right.
Can you invest in a trouser belt for the young lad.
He's an apprentice he can get one himself with money found elsewhere because apprentices aren't paid, right? < sarcasm
That was a very well thought out explanation about earthing & bonding. I think Cory could better than Jordan.
Corey i am surprised to see you not got have head phoes on with those spiders about !!
I would have repainted at least this one wall before putting all the stuff on again.
I think this is the dark side of the electrician's life 😬
@Ellis The DJ I didn't mean the electricians to be responsible for that but the owners.
Another way to look at earth bonding, is that you are making sure the pipework etc is a low impedance path to ground. That way if a fault should occur that would cause the pipework to become live, a significant fault current will flow that will operate a protective device. It's possible to have pipework become live, but because there is significant impedance between it and a ground, not enough fault current flows to trip a protective device.
This is one of the big reasons they banned using water pipes as earth electrodes - it was possible for them to be such high impedance (due to soil moisture levels, or replacement with plastic pipework) that there was effectively no earth, and people were being killed when pipework became live as a result.
What printer and software you are yousing for fuse box labeling?
I am guessing it's the brother one, I have one, it's good, you can do your own labels, or use the stock ones in the app.
It has some quirks, as fuse boards are in the patch panel section and they are mostly Proteus for some reason
@@acelectricalsecurity but what model and tape types?
Yeah it’s the brother one
@@artisanelectrics Can you give more details. I'm planning to get new sticker printer
Nice combination pliers. Are they expensive?
Knipex VDE installation pliers. About £60 from Amazon. You may be able to source them slightly cheaper, but rarely below £50ish.
7:25 I'm not the one who asked but I do live in America, so you're saying I need to go order a whole bunch of UK electrical stuff so I can get points to get a blue screwdriver?
lol
I guess it would be fun to setup a complete working mock demo of electricity around the world.
Sadly, now well I would actually Love to do that and want to do I don't have the money to, which is also why next time I visit a foreign country I know what souvenirs I'm going to bring back.
I'm not really a souvenir person but after my last trip in 2009 I finally decided what kind of souvenirs to bring back.
I got myself a nice extension cord from the Philippines complete with metal case and circuit breaker, the best part is I can use it. Although I'm slightly bummed out that I didn't think about this when I was in the UK. I got to Rome around a hardware store in the Philippines and I thought this is the best thing I've ever done it was so neat to see the different materials and building practices.
I've always looked at it the other way around. If it wasn't bonded and had no earth path and something made it live then the first person to touch the pipe would become the earth path and get a nasty shock. If it is bonded then when whatever made it live touched the pipe work then it would trip the breaker on overcurrent immediately rather than it be sat live waiting for somebody to come along
Hi all yes this use of torque settings is now becoming a go to requirement , I wonder if any body has also experienced the problem of copper compression, which can develop over time. When high loads are present the copper can become malleable and lead to a poor connection. I must admit I do think that some times these DB fires could be attributed to this phenomena. So not always the fault of the installer . So what to you think 🤔 Best wishes from an old retired electrician Ps I think that testing of installations can also induce its own pressures on connections that don’t respond well to being undone and re tightened say every 5 year 🤔
Interesting I have to say with all the stuff I've taken apart in the US I've never at least think I've seen that issue. I'm pretty sure I've only run into screws that either loosened out or conductors that have flattened because they were way too bent going in and weren't double checked to see that they were now loose.
There's always a handful of screws that when you go back and to just double check and after a wiggle are loose. I suspect a lot of these faults are due to installers who don't come back that one more check after they wiggle the wires.
I've come into a contact at a weird angle, tighten it up and it did feel tight; move the wire a bit and I was able to get another twist because it was not really seated properly but felt tight.
@@imark7777777 Hi sir yes it is open to debate , as regards copper loosening over time I did see many examples of this when working on large ongoing projects. Finding that going back to the same panel some months later . It was often possible to retighten connections done previously . With regards to testing ,as a company we often went back to same installation done previously ie say a school containing many DB points. I can definitely say we would come across a MCB or fitting that having been disconnected for testing would fail to retighten . So requiring replacement , in conversation with other electricians at the time is was often muted that it was just as possible to induce problems as it was to find them . Especially on installations which may contain many hundreds of circuits. But as they say it is definitely open to interpretation , and I definitely don’t claim to be the fountain of all knowledge Best wishes and kind regards from an old codger 😄
@@amarcy5369 oh yes the law of proportions = more wires more problems. I wonder if the voltage difference between the US and the UK makes things loosen more too?
It was through comments like these that I got interested in other countries electrical, so it's always great to see some thing new to learn.
Get Oscar to pull his trousers up !
The level is correct, it's designed to shed water off the db ;P
It also has the benefit of keeping you from putting your "drink(s)" up there. lol
Always learning so please bare with me ... if the boiler housing is at 230v and you touch a water pipe bonded and connected to the earthing system .. would you not be creating a path to earth and risking electric shock? Forgive me if I’m wrong
Water, gas, & elec appliances are all at the same potential so no shock
@@AndyK.1 I see what you’re saying and again please correct me if I’m wrong but ... I’m the scenario of a pipe becoming like due to pinching the line on a T&E (random scenario) would you then touching the unearthed pipe work with one hand and a earthed/bonded pipe with another hand not cause a “earth fault” . The same as if you were to catch the line inside a socket against the backbox it creates a fault current and trips
@@bradh2066 Well yes. That’s why the bonding conductors connect the pipes, cpc, metal frame work together and to earth so it doesn’t flow thru you. Or are you asking why the Mcb or rcd won’t trip ? Well yes it probably would
The bonding and you are two parallel paths to earth. So both are sitting at 230v in this case. But the bonding as milliohms resistance, and you kilohms. So Ohm's law says that most of that fault current is going to flow through the bonding, not you.
Without the bonding, the current has no other choice but go through you. How much depends on your resistance (rubber gloves, shoe soles...)
@@AndyK.1 that seems like a lot of fault current to travel through someone
What kind of saddles were those over the kopex? Are they double or something special?
Or are they cleats I'm looking at
@@lewistempleman9752 looks like a cleat opened out.
Rock on Oscar!!!!