My Consumer Unit Secrets 🤫 - How to install a Consumer Unit/Fuse Box
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- Опубликовано: 24 мар 2021
- My Consumer Unit Secrets 🤫 - How to install a Consumer Unit/Fuse Box
Join me as I show you an in-depth look into how I install a replacement consumer unit/fuse box in a domestic property. I share my secrets for how I get all the cabling and wired neat and tidy within the new consumer unit.
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22:48 “ I usually take that in the bottom” well at least he’s honest lol. But seriously nice video!
For labelling cables you can write on white heatshrink with fine pen and the text is preserved when it's shrunk
Customer with more money than sense - we need more like that! Yippee 😂
Nice work as always - bit alarmed to see you working with the cutout fuse opening exposed! My instructor always used to tell a story of someone he knew who did that and some dangling cable managed to find its way in and short circuit the supply knocking the whole street out and nearly killing the dude. Best to take the fuse out and reinsert the fuse holder. Stay safe!
Thanks
Bingo...Same as , know a Spark who touched the Lucy C.O and got the nickname E.T
Aaah you'll be alright, just don't stick your finger in it 😂
I always keep an empty cartridge, saves the ballache of removing the fuse from the holder
I always wondered what a “pen fault” was, now I know it’s when you leave the cap off your Sharpie...
🤣👍
Love your quick whit.
Actual lol
What do you mean cap of your Sharpie
@@joelmccollins7903 watch from 24:30
It's nice to see someone take pride in his work, so often these days people just don't bother.👍
Why electric unit very in England.. Who is responsible Elizabeth
I was always taught to cut trunking lid after and not at the same time as the trunking itself. You can get a nicer and more precise finish then.
your right , never cut trunking with the lid on. Normally put lid on just beneath the cut line to make the trunking rigid while you cut, then take it off , fit trunking and cut lid to suit .
I just find it’s more rigid if you leave the lid on it doesn’t flap around so much when you’re cutting it so makes it easier to get a straight cut
@Ellis The DJ just find something that works for you 👍👍
I’ve always cut plastic and steel lid at the end not at the same time. I see engineers at work cutting trunking with lid on with a grinder., mmm not for me then eh, we all work differently
I tend cut trunking over 75mm with a jig saw anyway
Keep up the good work
A true professional makes every job they do look easy...
Tools of the day. Pencil. 😆. I know you need a marker too and you can’t carry both in the Tesla and Cory has the pencil booked out today.
I'm not a sparky or a trainee, but love a video like this. It's through videos like these that I've been able to "shop" what I would like to see replace my consumer unit i.e. the unit itself, AFDD, SPD, position, consideration for 3 phases etc etc. it enables a much more informed discussion to take place with a tradesman and following the work, I can look it and go "what is this spaghetti junction you have given me"?
Glad to hear you call out that it was part p notifiable though.
Job well done Jordan..!
Jordan said "I actually take that in the bottom" giggle...
Incredible work Jordan! Great to see the thought behind the process. 🙌
Great work, nice to see the pride in workmanship and the tidy cables ensure that you do not wire anything up incorrectly. My first house had a very badly installed distribution board, even though it was labelled as ground-floor and first-floor sockets when the first floor was not separated at all and even the main fuse cover was not correctly sealed with a wire security tab and it fell off! I replaced the fuse box for a more modern one at the time by myself before being qualified was a legal requirement, obviously, the previous electrician was either just a cowboy or knew less than me!
What beautiful and neat workmanship! One humble suggestion is that I would probably have fitted an isolator switch in place of that Henley block (you can get 100A Wylex ones for under £15). P.S. Congratulations on the 50.1K subscribers!
I was always confused about the neutral and live incoming wires and how they get connect to the other fuses. This one video did it all for me. I have never installed a consumer unit but work as a Multiskilled Eningeer I am pretty sure I can do it so fast now like though I been working on it for 20 years.
Completely agree, great install, very very neat! I too would’ve put a 100A disconnector on the meter tails and if I was being particular a 230V sticker on the front of the consumer unit, just to make it idiot proof 😜
@@jamesclarke8295 If you want to make it idiot proof, you need to cut the power back at the transformer.. just saying ;)
Pleasure to see the pride you take in your work, you are a credit to your trade
My boss taught me to take out the main fuse from the carrier and reinsert the empty carrier to prevent any chance of a stray cable falling into the terminal. I'm checking the fuse size anyway, so I might as well make the job as safe as possible.
The difference between a craftsman and a tradesman. Beautiful job. Takes more time and effort but certainly shows as an excellent job done that even someone who knows nothing about electrical installation can appreciate.
Even a bodger like me is impressed.
“I usually take that in the bottom” 😵💫😂
A man after my own heart. Pride in our work but also if another contractor does come in to carry out EICR our work gives confidence in the rest of the installation where they may not be able to see. Also these contractors may tell other contractors and wholesalers what good work we have done. Well done let’s encourage other sparks to keep up the standards.
Blimey, you are a refreshing spark. Your vids are a public service reminder to all those out there that do the right thing, and a gift to those that might want to chance their arm. If anyone follows your vids to-the-letter, the world is in a better place.
Great trick how to get rid of kinks in the conductors, tried it myself the other day and it worked a treat! Your CU cable dressing is commendable.
Thanks I’m glad it worked for you!
Its refreshing to find a cu with ring finals marked. I tend to put coloured sleeving over one of the legs to identify them for continuity. Keep up the great work fella.
Thank you
Currently in the beginning stages of training to become an electrician and I can't stop watching these videos, a lot of stuff is still pretty foreign to me but slowly picking it up
18.04 'line to the left of me, neutrals to my right ' 🎶🤣
Looks neat only thing I would do different would be to fit a wylex isolator
Agreed
Yes definitely if your pulling the main fuse you might as well fit a two pole isolator. Only takes 5 min
Thought the same myself
Absolutely !! Why NOT fit an isolator ???? - Makes PERFECT SENSE!!
Nice video! I don’t mind doing consumer units. Just a thought to fit a isolator instead on Henley blocks just incase the power needs cutting saves pulling the main fuse
Does it matter if the isolator goes pre or post meter?
@@ColinRichardson do it after the meter because your not allowed to touch any that. Not your property. Plus if their is a fault with the meter you can isolate the consumer unit. Which I’ve had to because of it
@@brightside0970 That is what I thought, and obviously a direct replacement for the henley block.
I have seen isolators BEFORE the meter, so I am guessing those were fitted by grid operators.
I just wanted to confirm
Yes indeed, much better to install a isolator rather than a Henley Block far more useful & practical, not withstand, it was well done, obviously got a really good price for it, therefore no need to rush. Well done " reassuringly expensive " 😂😂😂
@@ColinRichardson Isolators before the meter are... not normal practice...electrically it's fine, but it really makes electricity abstraction childsplay, and causes smart meters to send alerts. The ones you've seen are likely mistakes by smart meter installers, who sometimes are really well trained, professional people with years of experience, and are sometimes not gonna give a chimp a run for their money on an iq test. There is no middle ground
Great to see such a neat job and you taking pride in your work 👍
Excellent as always - Totally absorbing and informatve. A really well delivered video as per normal. Really nice to see care, quality and craftsmanship. I do agree with the previous comment on the isolator
Nice Video. As an Electrician who qualified under 15th Edition and then a refresher 16th Edition I have started to follow your videos to see what's changed. When doing Rewires i used to love doing the Consumer unit, locking yourself away for a couple of hours listening to our tune on the radio. I used to love doing them as they were one of the many ways to really show pride in your work. I used love doing Pyro work also. Again, a fiddly cable to master as an apprentice but once you knew how to spool it off the drum and dress it well you could really shine.
The customers that are happy to pay for quality are few and far between! Need to seal the top surface though 🤔
Never thought there was a left and right to a ring,learn something every day 👍
There isn’t really but it’s just a way of showing there are two different legs
@@artisanelectrics whilst doing the continuity of ring circuits. Does it matter which live and which neutral are joined together?? Or as long as they are on different legs to the ring its fine?
@@kristianhumphreys7984 Yeah as long as they are on different legs of the ring then its fine, but if you are doing the cross connection R1&R2 test then you do need to choose opposite sides of the ring
Aesthetically pleasing to watch. Love the finished result.
You are a legend, I wish get my work experience from you, its far I live up north in Manchester....Thank you so much to make it so easy to understand...! Also you are a very good teacher...!
"I usually take that in the bottom" 22:48 XD
Now that’s a game changer!!
Painful
@@bryancarruthers1121 thank god its a flexi tail!
I picked up on that also, and thought to myself, that was childish, but then read your comment and realised I'm not alone..😁
Not only does he take his 16mm cpc “in the bottom” but, he likes to “take the largest circuits first”. 😏
You're like the Bear Grylls of the electric industry! I like how you take pride in your work and give it your best effort. An amazing video and very informative. P.S, I would happily sort your numbering system box out, my O.C.D would kill me to work with it like that lol. Keep up the good work, you gained another sub!
Perfect way of doing these, but Companies are Hour Conscious . Fast Fast Faster
Just get brother heat shrink tape our industrial numbering is long so converted to printing. It's expensive but looks clearer and don't sli......p
Brilliant job and very well explained throughout 👍
Great video and nice tidy workmanship. As a retired electrician I love watching theses videos which bring me up to date on new regs and techniques. My only gripe was when you were ID-ing the cables, the earth wires (old school) /CPCs were in danger of going into you eyes I know you had safety glasses but they won't protect your eyes when sitting on top of your head. Still it did not distract me from watching a good job being done. Thanks
I agree with your comment re the earth wires, I had a habit of folding the end away from your face so you would only get a rounded wire if the worse happened.
Buen video! lo bueno de youtube es que ahora los subtítulos automáticos tiene la opción de traducir al español, yo no se nada de ingles, pero con esa opción me ha ayudado harto ver videos en ingles y aprendo harto viendo los puntos de vistas de otros electricistas del mundo. Saludos desde Arica (Chile)
Que bien! Me alegro que puedas entender lo que creamos en el canal. Saludos 👋🏼
Wow.thanks for so many good tips .I am doingy second consumer unit and I be watched many units being fitted .the more videos I watch the more experience I get .you are really good bro..
greetings from the USA! great quality work !!! AGREED: professional work only in all cases! no amateurs!
Personally I tend to cut the meter seal and terminate them into the meter unless they've provided blocks already. Two reasons first if they're 16mm tails at the meter they should be upgraded if your main switch is 100A. Second because the customer is technically responsible for everything after the meter that includes the tails to the consumer unit which you're essentially becoming responsible as the engineer changing the unit and carrying out the testing and certification. As long as you carry your own seals to reseal and keep records of, it's not really an issue of tampering it's an issue of safety and responsible workmanship.
Great video and quality workmanship as always. As a side note the tail clamp is only good for top/bottom entry if you come in from the side it's a pain in the butt and you find yourself having to strip the outer tail sheath to make the turn.
Yup, and if 3 foot of non flexi tails have been flapping around all day from the meter terminals, I would like to know they are still tight. Should have cut them of and put in a cutoff or henley before taking the board off IMPO.
Just out of interest, why does the main switch rating have anything to do with the ccc of the tails?
Using 16mm is fine up to 87A clipped direct, and with most household main fuses rated at 60A - 80A, why try and stuff 25mm into the woefully inadequate and awfully shallow cage clamps of a modern (not fit for purpose) (must be enclosed in non combustible material) (terminal screws made of soft putty like material) main switch. Having said that, at least the 25mm flexible tails seem to hold a little better (shame about the lack of tunnel terminals and two terminal screws)
@@jonanders76 Your gonna have to clarify the queastion/s.
@@jonanders76 I think he meant the rating of the supplier's fuse rather than the main switch. If you have a 100A fuse, you definitely want 25mm tails. Otherwise the 16s are probably fine as I think they're good for about 87A
Jon and Robin are correct. Min size of tails is governed by the main cut-out fuse. Obvious really - this fuse is the only protection for the tails. Nothing to do with the Max capacity of equipment downstream of the tails.
Some electricity suppliers, such as Octopus, require engineers to upgrade tails to 25mm even for 80A fuses, but just playing safe. And a point to Mr Bubbly above :) cutting the seals on the meter is NOT acceptable and is an order of magnitude above pulling fuses (which we all do for justifiable safety reasons) In case you are unaware, the seals carry a unique and traceable identifier number when fitted by the approved meter engineer.
Its quite handy to stick a blank piece of paper above or below the board while doing the change over so you can temporarily mark up the circuits then transfer the information onto the new board at the end.
Brilliant video. Love your attention to perfection. Much love from Belfast
Safe, functional and neat.
A joy for future jobs!
22:48 🤣🤣 an unfortunate pause at the end too
25:11 too.....
Wondered what on earth you was on about had to rewind. Classic
Why didn't you fit an isolator switch instead of Henley blocks ...safer and easier for the next sparks
Must admit that went through my mind as well👍
I came on to ask exactly the same!
Me too, I was expecting it. Especially as he pulled the main fuse, knowing the next guy was going to have to do same. Still.
I may be wrong and correct me if I am wrong but I thought you have to get the DNO out to fit an isolator switch 🤷🏻♂️
Would have been another hour extra = 96£ 😃
Very helpful video, I certainly learnt a couple of trick. Work of art consumer unit - bravo👏
36:00 Busted🤣🤣 Great video, very informative and very clean install👍🏻
Always good to see your vids! Some useful tips. If you have to remove the cut out you should remove the fuse and reinsert the carrier, otherwise you have exposed a hole which has a permanently live feed in it. Mentioned this before, but cut out removal by anyone other than the DNO, electricity supplier or the Fire Brigade is not permitted. I have been on the receiving end of an appearance of Western Power on a job when I did this with a smart meter. The loss of power to the meter sets an alert off and the DNO is expected to attend to find out as its a loss of power to the property. If they are busy on other work they won’t rush out, but they can, and do attend.
Everyone knows that any extra time waiting for DNO is extra cost to customer. What is the solution? DNOs should be rolling out the fitting of isolators in all properties. Forget rolling out smart meters; get the sodding isolators fitted. It is in the interest of safety, the consumer and the trade.
@@jam99 Funerals aren’t cheaper either !
My DNO (Western Power) told me I'd face a 10 grand fine if I pulled a client's fuse! They said if there is a smart meter fitted, it would inform them. Now I always have to wait for the client to arrange with their energy provider to install a double pole isolater.
There’s a petition about this going round at the moment as it’s stupid that they do that.
So what happens after to the fuse as you have cut the wire? Do you crimp another one on?
Lovely job mate. Very professional and full of great tips. I must agree with the masses here though....absolutely killed me that you fitted a Henley block over an isolator. Oh well, smashing end result!
send the box over mate!!! i have time until January jobs start 😂 it takes about an hour to sort it out while watching more of you guys vids
Tool of the day should be you you say about safe isolation but then remove the main fuse an leave it exposed with the main tails flapping about an the bear earth that your touching an then to top it off you have your knee resting on the open cutout if you trim a cable an it lands on you knee an happens to go in the cut out thats you gone I have a red fuse holder that I put in an labelled up as no fuse in this carrier stay safe an keep up the good videos mate
My Dad always said “If you have nothing nice to say, don’t say anything at all” what’s your channel so we can watch how to do it perfectly
Mate... Full stops ✋️
Nearly had a stroke reading that.
I usually take that in the bottom below the two larger tails 😂😂
Very informative. Cheers for taking the time.
A nice job you have done.For termination of multiplexes cable I use ferrules to prevent any copper strand folds back and when I fix trunking to the consumer I usually cut the dimension of the trunking by a jigsaw which it fits neatly and for marking I always use pencil and I like to put some masking tape were I need to make the marking. I also do marking of each circuits as you have done before connecting so if I have to isolated any particular circuit I will find it immediately. Bye and well done again.
I'll happily organise your box, however I'm in Australia lol
Interesting proposal
Correct me if I’m wrong but was there not a gap at edges of trunking leaving a hole going into DB ipx2 ??
What a really neat and professional job,well done👍
Keep the videos coming Jordan, enjoy them a lot.
Thanks
This is brings back memories of me doing my own consumer box! Sadly I had to add two more MCBs and one RCBOs at later date so my nice neat wires got a bit messy :/
Yes, full DIY, but reserched like crazy and got it certified by a qualified electrician (who actually complimented me on my work :) )
Gimp
Sparks are gonna start crying now 😂
Great job. As somebody who does a lot of testing, i noticed no mixed colours label and no rcd label on the front (that i could see). I hope they were placed before you left! You seem to be getting a bit of a pasting here for the henley block. I do tend to agree tbh, an isolator would have been far more useful an addition than a henley. I dont believe in adding connections in large cables like that without a good purpose. The henley block serves no purpose. I love to get to grips with a good board change though, im looking forward to doing my mums when i qualify. It was butchered and thrown at the wall about 20 years ago by a buffoon, so anything i do will be an improvement!
Adding a henley block creates no more issue than if an isolator had been fitted. Granted an isolator would have been a better choice, even by Jordan's admission, however there is still the same amount of connections made. Not everyone carries 100a tail isolators around.
@@marcusstonham my point was more that an isolator would have a function here. The henley never will, its a rented house and the board has plenty of spare ways, there isnt going to be another board fitted.
@@stevecraft00 but it doesn't actually matter. Isolator better yes, but henley block isn't an issue and doesn't create an issue
@@marcusstonham personally I'd have just taken the new tails straight into the meter.
Make sure you get an isolator fitted first .
Absolute smashing video real organic all the way through 10/10
Thanks a lot!
Really good work mate... Excellent result...
Just be careful with all that excess sub circuit cpcs that one of them doesn't accidentally lodge in the incoming live in the cut out, and give you a pisser on the face from its returning pair...
Always a joy to watch...
Excellent video
Could I just ask why did you not install a main isolator instead of a connector block?
He says the customer wants the best and then he ignores the basics.
I would guess the DNO will fit one when they come and re-seal the fuse?
@@russellbosley5988 ha ha, that's a good one
@@electricery and it’s all bang up to date but leaves red and black tails between the meter and the block 🤣👍
@@ashhowey5249 And if i remember rightly he's charging like 500 quid a day !
Was a bit concerned about the main incomer fuse holder not put in, and you stripping cables near it BOOOOOOOM
Totally irresponsible, demonstrates his level of skill and safety consciousness
I tape over it absolute minimum.
@@electricery Dangerous , in the extreme ! Amazed at how many people , don’t realise how dangerous or illegal what this guy is doing . These videos are clearly an ego trip !
@@andytap560 should never have been removed, end of .
@@ali87468 haha ok mate.
Fantastic video Jordan, I'm experienced but I have learnt so much from you here.
Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Jordan, never underestimate the usefulness of these videos or who is watching. I live in Thailand and have just built a new kitchen. My missus got the local sparks in to install a new consumer unit, cooker, water heater, socket and lighting circuits. He absolutely butchered the CU box, installed three radials to sockets instead of a ring main, didn't install earths to metal light fittings (attached to the steel-framed kitchen roof) and switched the fucking neutrals on the lighting circuit. I am in the process of re-installing and your videos, whilst I know are not meant to be 'instructional' for DIYers, are proving essential.
Ring circuits are an exceptional british method, many western industrial countries are not used to this kind of wiring and do not need it.
I would be surprised if those cables were LSF as some manufacturers supplied twin and earth in white.
I think you’re right, iirc they only brought it in when they changed the wiring colours so old red/black with white sheath could be pvc
Yeah I think you’re right too as they were pretty easy to strip and LSF is usually quite tough
White sheath cable was used on surface mount in visible / decorative installations . Looked less intrusive than the grey. You could get white t&e clips too.
Personally I’d fit a Wylex 100A DPI over a Henley block but each to their own.
On a serious note have you ever been bollocked for cutting the seals and pulling the main fuse?
Thanks and no never
@@artisanelectrics 👍🏻
REC2 every time
You will know about it if you get a flashback, just don't pull it under load.
Once again excellent vid.. Thanks Jordan
Great great video and a work of art at the end. I’m currently doing level 3 and this video was super useful, great pace for learners with good explanations. Really, thank you ☺️ 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
It still really annoys me that smart meter installers still don’t provide means of isolation, they only cost £12.99 from Toolstation. It’s for that reason that I cut all their seals off, replace everything with new tails, and install an isolator as standard now. Rant over, a very neat job Jordan, love your standards and it’s nice when a customer gives you the time to do a proper job.
Great idea I might start doing the same!
Agree 25mm future proofing especially now EV installs are more frequent, how did you know that the cutout fuse carrier contained a 100 amp fuse ? The sticker on the outside just identifies that the cutout is suitable upto 100amps some meter engineers use independent stickers, next time open up the carrier to see what's inside.
Economics. Theres 16 million smart meters installed. An isolator might 'only' cost 12.99 but times that by 16 million...
Plus cost of new cables etc.
Given that suppliers have to keep costs to a mimimum due to price cap and cost of wholesale energy how do you propose they fund tens, or even hundreds of millions of pounds spent on isolators?
@@richardfld yea poor energy company's must be skint, let one man band Joe bloggs pay for it yea, with the rising cost of electricity at the moment they must be hard up....
Isn't it illegal to cut the seals?I'm sure someone get arrested and fined a few years back for leaving a cut out not sealed? personally, I would seal the cutout up after as it's the right height for a toddler
Why fit a Henley Block instead of an Isolator switch?
Hi jondon you are a good man and you always do fantastic work all the time and thanks for sharing your video with me and I would like to see a lot of your videos and I am very pleased with your work
Thanks
Amazing work 👌🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 I’m not an electrician but I really enjoy your vids 🤙🏻
Thanks!
Hi, mate. Thank you for that excellent video. I prefer you to all of the other sparks, you never leave me with any questions, you go through every detail very well and I am going to follow your example through out my career. I am about to start college this year and you are a massive help to get me used to all the jargon. I'm going to save all of your others now. Thank you again. Take care.
It's only T&E with harmonized core colors where white sheath indicates LSF. In the red/black days you could get regular PVC T&E with a white sheath. In some parts of the country white sheath tends to indicate DIY as the DIY sheds carried white while the wholesalers only carried grey.
Didn't bother to look at the markings did he.
Yeah B&Q special, there's no way you would strip lsf with a striping tool like that
Hi Jordan, congratulations on 50k subscribers milestone. Very well deserved as you always have good quality content on your channel. Also congratulations on getting Hilti as a sponsor, that wall chaser and dust extractor is awesome piece of kit! by one of the ultimate tool companies. Keep up the good work. Stay safe guys. Pete 👍
Thanks Pete!
Jordan congrats on the 50000 subscribers thoroughly deserved
Thanks Jordan your videos produce a lot of comments which is great and you obviously have a lot of veiwers
I always renove the main fuse and put the fuse holder back on the cutout, only because knowing my luck id fall and touch the mains🤣
Agreed much. I was wincing a bit as J pulled the tails out of the CU and they were bouncing around a bit.
Yeah I did do that just didn’t show it on the video
It's not in there at 27.39...
Yeah initially I forgot but you can see it later on. Usually I use these insulating plugs that a DNO guy sent me but Cory has them in the van.
@@artisanelectrics or a piece of cardboard torn off the new CU box wedged in does the job 😉
I’d have asked to have the CU at eye level if it was mine, especially with that lid that only goes part way up.
yeah didn't like that 'feature'. Not typical for Hager... they're usually ahead of the curve on design. Maybe they were only considering new builds, where the CU has to be high up, rather than retrofits
50K well deserved mate
Nicely Done very nice workmanship very professional quality
I was wondering why you were concerned about the cable lengths when you could raise the board a bit to compensate..then, you did do.
And those 'big' hacksaw take up so much more room... 😁😁😁 one 'big' hacksaw between two sparks? at your rates 😁😁😁
A DP 100amp meter switch is only several pound more than a DP 100 'Henley block' any reason not to fit ? irrespective of what switching you have in the consumer unit.
I sort of cringe when I see an open cut out without tape over it or refitted without the fuse as I'm just waiting to see a cable fall in there..especially a a bare earth one...ouch !
Not fussed about the isolated but yep, get a tiny bit of tape on their. Only takes a random cable to swing down and it’ll get interesting. I think their work is good from what’s shown but a little bit of tape can save you!
Very nicely put together video and very well explained. One thing that I didn't see was how you prevent water from an upstairs plumbing leak running down the cables and into the CU.
Having recently had a leak from my roof that ran down the wall and into the top of a surface mounted light switch wrecking the switch and the surface mounted cable, it's something that I've started to worry about.
Good to see people like you who are proud of their trade. Pleasure to watch you work.👍😎
Thanks
If you were willing to cut the seals on the c/o why not just cut the one on the meter too it’s the same “offence” (in my opinion if it’s the only safe way of isolation I completely agree with cutting the seals btw) that way could of just ran new tails all the way into the metre no need for un necessary terminations/weak points?
Because he doesn't have to. He only pulls the fuse because it is the only way to work safely without calling out the DNO. Also, maybe he has a sealing kit for the fuse but not for the meter... some sparks do.
@@jam99 your not allowed to cut any of the seals and remove the DNO’s fuse at all regardless of the circumstances. But all I was saying is it’s black or white have you cut seals or not YES cut 1 or cut 3 either way you’ve broken the law may as well do the full job 😂 and what sealing pliers would only crimp a seal on a c/o and not on the meter they’re the exact same seals and wires
@@jacka5994 a) Why double the chances of getting into trouble? A supplier won't be bothered with what is to the left of the henley block and the DNO won't be bothered with what is to the right of the henley block. b) When a judge awards a penalty in a court of law, the penalty is usually based on the severity of the action. Double the offense can increase the penalty. c) Sealing pliers can fit branded seals.
Have you ever seen a flashover on a cutout? The disconnect time is 15 seconds? To the ring RMU (I think) anyway, it's safe to say it's extremely dangerous to leave a cutout with no protection. I can't see anything in this video? (Correct me if I'm wrong) A board change requires lots of manipulation of bare copper. Lots of debris. You can already see the cutout is covered in brick dust.
If the DNO allows you to remove the main fuse from the cutout you should use proper screening of the live parts inside once the fuse is removed to prevent anything coming into contact with them. You can easily kill yourself, or cause very severe burns! Do not remove the cut out fuse unless you have screening available, and use the specific PPE that the DNO requires.
Avoid sprinkling the sniped off ends of the incoming tails in to the new board
@@ronimure1649 Heh, I'm not a spark but even I noticed that.
Loving the videos and keep up the awesome work. It would be nice to see the certificate filling side to one of your jobs in the future 👍👍
Perfectly explained and demonstrated, love to keep in contact.
How did Corey confirm CPC continuity on the ring mains if they were twisted? you said he did an EICR? surely that's something you would check
He checked it at a socket
Jordan.....I swear you’re on a wind up. Lol
Most expensive firm I know......and you have one ‘ big hacksaw’ between you all! Lol. Come on mate! Do you sign it out to the lads when they need it? Lol!
Haha yeah unfortunately we’re in transition as Cory has my van and all my tools I’m only working on the tools one day a week at the moment so can’t really justify buying a van for myself, so I’m working out of the Tesla and just grabbing the tools I need when I need them. Prob gonna have to get myself a little van soon tho.
@@artisanelectrics Defo....get one. You need it. But why hasn’t Corey got a big hacksaw?
@@Spark101. he does have my one but I didn’t borrow it back
@@artisanelectrics Tell him to buy his own! lol.
It’s not the end of the world though! I just thought it funny you guys sharing a hacksaw.
To be fair, we have the same situation. The company pencil! No matter how many I buy, we always only have the one! 😂
Tis funny. It’s probably oscars toolkit.
Bloody entertaining and instructive!!! New subscriber… excellent cameraman, very supportive and focused to create this content.
Good job. I also use the cable markers but rather than using a numbering system I use a code. The reason for this is that if any circuits are added the then the cable numbers could change whereby if you use US or UR for Upstairs Sockets or Upstairs Ring, that cable will always serve that circuit, no matter what happens to the fusebox. Nice to see someone who takes pride in their work,
These are interesting videos to watch after work, as always with any of the RUclips sparks, but my concern with these style of videos is that the amount of them out there now on how to fit a CU/ DB is crazy,. Especially when anyone without the relevant qualifications can just buy the bits and pieces from screwfix, then have a go themselves at fitting a CU/ DB following a RUclips video. Note to anyone unqualified doing what I've just mentioned, just because something works doesn't mean it's safe.
You could say that about anything technical on the internet
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Hey Could you link me to that seal 15:55
@@DerekHundik amzn.to/2P7LlXb
Was just about to ask the same 👍
Update. This is one of the best tips going. Used it. Really pleased with the finish on the CU... nice one dude
Awesome thanks
Impressed with your work and the tools you have, many which were not available when I was working,. when changing consumer units (fuse boards at the time 🤣) was done by torch or if you was really lucky a lead light from a neighbours supply or connection on to the incoming supply.