5 Mistakes Everyone Makes Changing Sockets ❌
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- Опубликовано: 15 май 2024
- This video will show off 5 Mistakes that people make when changing sockets around. 🔌 We don't often do tutorial videos but we thought this one would be beneficial for all those out there that are attempting to do a socket change, but please contact an electrician if you are unsure. 🙏 So sit back, leave a like and comment, and enjoy the video. 😎
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⏱️Timestamps
00:00 - Introduction
00:19 - The Tools You Need
00:45 - A MUST DO First Step
02:04 - Time To Test
02:48 - Live, Neutral And Earth Wiring
05:40 - Earth Sleeving Tips
07:10 - Installing The Socket
10:48 - 5 Mistakes To Avoid Summary
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Hi all, hope you enjoyed our latest video. If you want to get your hands on some of the equipment we used during the video, then there is a few links in the description for you to go look at. 😎
@artisanelectrics I like your content. Just have a question on this video and some feedback.
With how you have finished your safe isolation. Suggesting that you turn that circuit back on to prove your test equipment just after you have test for dead defeats the objective of proving dead. If using a know source to prove your test equipment you should be using a different source/ circuit. Hope that makes sense.
Is there a maximum required permitted distance where a washing machine can be fitted next to a consumer unit ? Just asking as I want to do the same.
Here in the United States all metal boxes need to be grounded you would say earthed and all ground leads need to be twisted together and crimped so they do not come apart.
Washing machine waste pipe right next to the consumer unit 😮 lovelly
Had the same thought !
Me too 😊 Bet it was placed on purpose so viewers can comment. That will spike the insights
There is nothing wrong with the washing machine where it is. If it has been installed correctly.
Gotta love new builds .. the consumer unit next to the washing machine at the start of this video.. amazing!
I did wonder about that too😂
Worse. CU next to the drain outlet. So if there's a blockage the CU is going to get very wet.
Yep, and does that pass regs?
Those pipes often crack and piss out
That’s the first thing I thought 😂
Bet the house cost £250,000 too.
Some nice tips.
Interestingly as an industrial spark, I’ve often shuddered at the work of domestic sparks.
I’ve lost count of how many socket faceplates I’ve removed to find either excessively short cables, loose terminals or both.
The worst case I’ve come across was my parents shower installation. The shower had stopped working, when I investigated it for them the shower isolator was burnt out from a slack termination. It required a new switch and luckily in this case there was enough length to re strip some fresh copper.
It’s a pity not all electricians are of the same good calibre.
shower pullcords etc are a nightmare, as is 10mm T&E. Never enough room in a single backbox really. Although T&E is a terrible cable choice too. SY cable far more suitable.
Great job sir professional
The fella who previously owned our house had secured the earth in the socket terminal with filler.
This is one of those rare videos that properly explains why, not just "because regs" or "that's how I was taught". Much more convincing imo to the casual DIYer who might otherwise be tempted to bodge it. Well done!
I’m an electrical engineer. I have degrees and everything, I then followed on to do an apprenticeship in an electricity company. I would love to say all electricians are good, but in the three houses I have owned, I’ve found over 30 issues with the work “professional electricians” have done. From wiring extra sockets off a lighting circuit, to not bothering with earth connections onto metal light switches. It’s a shame no one can be trusted to do a safe job.
One thing I found in mine not really anything wrong I'm guess it's fine to bring wires through a joist but some of my light circuits come through the joist so if you want to fit a low profile light and need to pop a junction box up into the ceiling you can't. Pain in the arse as the one I was doing is right under the board for the old water tank somcant pull it up to then drop newmfeed down and can't really cut the ceiling as has asbestos artex.
@@HA05GER That asbestos artex is a right pain isn't it?
Such a stupid thing to say from an apprentice 'its a shame no one can be trusted to do a proper job'. Despite clearly having watched this video where t job is done properly u claim this - most bizarre. 🤦
@david-iandawson Well what do you expect when someone begins with "I'm an electrical engineer."? It doesn't matter which side of the Atlantic you're on, those idiots seem to think that carries weight to electricians in the field.
@@danieljadorie829 I totally agree. It's the arrogance that baffles me. To claim they know what they're 'talking about' shouts out to me their crappy character. Whilst moronic folk like this claim to be competent, u just know they'de sink at t first hurdle attempting to claim they can do t job of a qualified sparky who has experience.
We must be on t same frequency - no pun intended 😁😂😂😂😂
I already like this video even only 10 seconds in! The attitude of "I know you'll do it anyway so here's the RIGHT way to do it." This is perfect! You'll never stop the DIYer from doing simple things like sockets so at least having good educational sources out there to try and keep them safe is a life saving thing!
We know people will do it anyway so we thought we would show people the safe way of doing it.
I really agree with that.
At least where I live (in Sweden) way too many electricians have the attitude of "don't mess with your electrical installation your self or you will die or burn your house down" - and even some sellers in hardware stores refuse to answare questions about electrical work (even though you can buy all the stuff you need).
That's because of our stupid laws.
But many of us don't give shit about those and I also read that like 50% of house owners have in fact done electrical work that's not allowed anyway (because even simple things like connect a washing machine to screw terminals on the wall, requires an electrician to do legally here) and very few people get caught (and most of the cases where someone have been, it's almost always illegal paid work or if they have done a bad installation on someone elses property, that have caused a fire or a similar thing - which is a whole other thing).
The other 50% is probably mostly people who really know nothing about electricity and would have an electrician do any work anyway. So this shows how dumb that attitude (and laws) is, as they will just contribute to making installations less safe than if information is spread how to do the work correctly.
@@Speeder84XLHaving written negatively about most electricians I've used and positively about diligent by the book DiYers, I have to support the shop that won't give advice. There are books, regulations that can be downloaded, and good RUclips channels like this and effix. Shop is right to protect themselves from accusations of saying the wrong thing or someone doing wrong despite the correct thing they heard
@@cuebj That's true. I was refering to what I have seen in for example some chats and forums - things like "when I worked at a hardware store, I refused to answere any questions about electrical work as people shouldn't do that them self". Which sounds to me like those electricians.
But, now when you say it - it's pretty obvious that the stores (and the companies running them) don't want to deal with someone doing bad work and blame it on them.
Especially since out "electrical safety authority" (which is most likely heavily influenced by lobbyists from electric installation companies) have been on everyone selling electrical equipment already and forcing them to for example put up signs, "all electrical installations have to be done by an authorized electrician".
So, if there is for example a fire and someone blames it on the advice they got in the store, they would in fact likely get sued for causing it, by helping unauthorized people do electrical installations.
@@artisanelectrics I've been doing most of my own electrics since I was about 10. I'm now 68 and still alive with no more than a handful of belts to my name, so I must be doing something right. My father was an engineer and my next door neighbour when I was growing up was a sparky, so I picked up a lot.
As my username suggests, I've always been fascinated by test equipment, and have amassed a fair bit over the years, including no less than three MFTs (Fluke 1664FC, Megger 1552 and 1741..!) I've also taught myself how to use them, so although I'm not qualified, I do feel I have some idea what I'm doing.
Fantastic positioning of the washing machine drain next to the consumer unit…
That's not really an issue. Look at where any water will be. Not anywhere near the box.
I worked at an Electric blanket factory many years ago; one colleague suggested we all go to his gran's house for lunch. On entering the living room, we found his gran lying asleep on the sofa wrapped in an electric blanket; I stepped on the carpet, and there was a huge bang followed by a large hole in the carpet. His gran awoke as the blanket smouldered; she was okay. I checked the power had gone off and lifted the carpet. To my shock, she had extended two different gauged wires with sellotape. She did not have a plug, so she used the classic match sticks to hold the wires in the holes. It's not a good advert for the Electric blanket.
Good grief! On the other hand, you nearly saved on cremation costs...
I did not like how close that washing machine waste pipe was to the fuse board
If you're wiring up an all metal light fixture on the ceiling, make sure that the switched live doesn't get smushed between both halves of the fixture.
I've done that in the past and I was glad I had grounded the light fixture, as the result was blindingly spectacular. And loud.
Out of all the socket clips I have watched the re threading tool is a new one for me, Thanks for this vital info.
Very important to make sure the terminal screw is touching the copper, not the outer insulation 👍
I actually use a sharp needle on the end of one test lead to check continuity between the terminal screw and the wires by pushing the needle through the wire insulation as close to the terminal as possible. And yes it will leave a tiny hole in the insulation but so small as to be irrelevant. It absolutely confirms the wire is connected to the terminal correctly, very important for a ring circuit which might otherwise be broken if one wire isn't actually connected properly.
Particularly important not to screw down on the earth sleeving
If the cables are too SHORT
What are the options
Great video and great tip on re-threading the lugs but please use the correct term for the problem which is "cross threaded" not "threaded"
Noted!
Great video. Another tip would be to check if there are rubber grommets installed in the back box. I have seen so many without them. Worth adding if they are missing.
Love the tip to re thread the back box holes. Sometimes I've spent as long refitting the cover as I have replacing a socket.
Some good points there, in regards to depth of the back box, as an alternative you can get spacers to go around the socket, effectively making them sit proud, some might not be happy with the look but it's a definitive alternative to having to excavate another 10mm of depth into your brickwork.
Yes Dave I am glad you mentioned the double socket spacer ,easily bought on Amzn. I am a retired electrician and I have some serious reservations about home owners working on wiring. I am sure a thousand sparks would agree that like me on removing sockets they have found often an amateur dangerous bodge-up mess. From incorrect under size cables and no grommets to multiple spurs taken off , broken ring circuits ( which an amateur would not look for) although Jordan has presented a clear informative vid the though of homeowners changing sockets makes my blood run cold.
@@garypautard1069 I couldn't agree more and it's not just the DIYers unfortunately.
In a previous property that i lived in (for about 12 years), I was surprised at the number of junction boxes and also choc-block connection block "spurs" and joints.
As it was a council house, i was fairly limited, but whenever contractors came in to do other work (such as adding central heating, new smoke/fire alarms, electric shower etc) I always managed to find and fix previous "bad practice" situations overnight while boards were raised and cables exposed.
If/when contractors had boards up for access that exposed existing wiring, I'd ask them to just leave them up overnight seeing as they'd just need to lift them again the following day. Then I'd identify whole masses of spaghetti and various types of junction (often with no earth sleeving), as well as multiple spurs from a single box. Then I'd either reroute cables or replace whole sections to recreate a single ring without any junction boxes. Securing cables, adding sleeving and removing as much of the tangled spaghetti situation as possible.
When the contractors completed their work, the test results were always better than the readings from before they started.
There was only one thing that i missed, which was the pull switch for the shower. When they installed it, they siliconed the switch and i didn't want to break the seal. 18 months later, the shower stopped turning on, so i opened the switch and discovered badly charred wires, the live just slid straight out - obvious that the terminal hadn't been tightened, causing sparking every time the switch was used. There was so much damage inside the switch, molten plastic, black charred wires and contacts, it's a wonder that it hadn't caught fire.
Even though there was plenty of space available in the attic directly over the switch, whichever electrician did the install, cut the wires extremely short. When i replaced the switch, i ended up moving it 6" closer to the bathroom door so that i could trim the burnt cable and have enough good/virgin wire to make good connections. (6 years later, when i moved out it was still in perfect condition).
@@garypautard1069 Just been working on the electrics of my present house which dates back to the mid 80's and some of the original work done by so called professional electricians is shocking, excuse the pun. It's been the same in two other houses I have owned. Hopefully, standards are higher today, but sadley there are cowboys in all trades...There some jobs I am happy to do on electrics around the house, while there are others I prefer to call in a qualified spark...I have had quotes from one of two over the years that I have rejected because of the way they intended to do the job. I remember one who wanted to spur an outside light and an outside socket direct off the house lighting cct rather than put a separate cable back to the consumer unit which is what I actually wanted. The consumer unit had space in it and was located in a convenient place meaning there would have been little difference in the cable runs. The only added difficulty was that the guy would have had to work in the consumer unit which he seemed reluctant to do.
@@garypautard1069 Don't paint us all with the same brush though please. Those of us who watch videos like this are educated, all for the better. I have had all of the work I've done in my home over a period of 40 years checked and certified by a qualified and reputable sparkie who was very complimentary. His only negative criticisms were of some of the original builders' work which I had not touched.
After isolating, the first thing to do is carefully run a sharp blade around the circumference of the socket. Saves it sticking and pulling paint etc. with it. Hopefully stops the other half recommending redecorating!
Worth it if you weren't the last one to decorate, but I'd go further saying first step is to make sure the sockets etc are loose from the wall and paint allowed to dry properly in the first instance. I do hate it when lazy decorators paint or paper up to sockets and switches instead of doing the job right first time.
Thank you. That was a lot less harsh and a lot more informative that I expected. I've replaced many sockets, switches and light fittings in my house, and put in additional sockets as required (who thought that one single socket per room was enough in the 1980s?).
I always try to keep up to date with proper practices and safety and will call in an electrician for anything that I feel unsure about.
I agree about making sure the wires on the sockets are long enough. Unfortunately with my house cost came first and all wires had been installed as short as possible! I also like deep back boxes to give plenty of wiggle room for the wiring.
Great idea having that "'Consumer Unit"', as you call them over there in the UK, next to a washing machine drain. Asd a Sparkie, that would have sparked my interest straight away. I personally would make them move it or I'd put in defect notice on the property.
I have been observing electricians work in my life since I was a small child and I have never once seen a home with wiring that neat and orderly. Granted I live in cheap rented places where the work that's been done is bordering on absolutely illegal and unregulated and my own DIY is genuinely up to a better standard, but even in the home of the electricians in the family they're usually half-bodging everything just to do it quicker.
Not sure if you cleaned it up just because you knew it was going on show or if you just wire like that as standard but I like it!
The more important reason not to twist the cpc's is that they will still show when testing that they are connected even though they may have fallen out of the socket itself. The earthing of the back box can be essential if you do not have a fixed lug that the screw goes into.
Ive yet to find a socket screw connection block that will safely hold three conductors without tightning to the point of crushing the conductor (the screw usually only impacts and holds 2 of the 3 securely) so in the case of a ring socket which is feeding a spur I twist the last 15 mm of so of the earths.
Surely testing the earth through the socket is a required test after changing one in the UK. Even a basic plug in tester will pick up that there’s no power across the phase earth if the conductor have come out the back of the socket.
@@pncampbell The MK sockets with 'Wago' style connectors are good for this, there are three connectors for each of the L, N and E terminals.
Good thing you‘re emphasizing the importance of using a proper voltage tester and not just one of those lying pens 👍
A very clear and concise article apart from one thing. Trying to get a sparkie who is willing to do a home visit just to fit or test a single socket. It aint going to happen. If you can get one they will charge a fortune. I'm lucky I have a working knowledge of this sort of thing and the appropriate tools but luckily my neighbour and friend is a tutor at an electrical college and so he's fully up with the regs and gives me good advice in advance of any projects I have and has got me out of shtuck more than once.
My mate needed a 30 year old bathroom light replaced after it stopped working due to the bulb contact points breaking down. His local spark wanted £200 for what was to him 10 minutes and he lives in the same street! He didn't even need his van! I did it for the cost of a box of wago connectors.
A lot of these vids all state that if you can't do the job or don't feel confident about it call a professional. Sound advice but getting one? Good luck. 👍
When I moved in to my last house, the garage was powered by a bit of trailing 4mm that the previous owner had installed. I'm very comfortable around electrical systems - I'm an electronics repair specialist - so I rewired the entire garage, including fitting a small consumer unit to separate out the boiler, lights and sockets.
Getting an electrician in to check the work was an absolute nightmare; I wasn't comfortable using the new accessories until they had been checked by a professional, and in the end (after over a year) I managed to swap 'work for work' and fixed an 1662 (electrical testing unit) in exchange for the work.
I'd have had no issue paying for the work to be checked - even above what would be a fair amount of money for the work - but unless you're offering them a job where they can charge ridiculous amounts of money, my local electricians just don't give a damn.
I can't imagine how frustrating being in a similar situation would be for someone who's taken the time to learn how to, and then carried out their own work, only to hit a roadblock because of lazy/avaricious sparkies.
You are both absolutely right. I can do simple stuff but cannot do PAT testing or EICR reports obviously but getting anyone to even ring back is a nightmare. They all complain on these U tbe vids about "amateurs" but not returning calls because they cannot be bothered is just rude and pathetic.
@Do you find so called mates or neighbours, then say 'oh that didn't take long' and hand a token fiver or nothing at all, yet often they're willing to pay a professional a couple of hundred for same job. I gave up being kind but rather late in life. I find it hard to say no to help others.
@@DavidMartin-ym2te I got myself qualified to do PAT (not PAT Testing please, that says Portable Appliance Testing Testing, which is silly..!) and have done all the equipment in the house. It's amazing how many things there are, you don't realise until you go through them..!
Just seen your note - sorry about the tautology!
@@TestGearJunkie.
I can add a tip I learned the hard way. Make sure you don't trap any of the wires when putting the face plate back. I accidentally pinched a neutral wire between the end of the face plate screw and the back box. The insulation wasn't split so there was no direct metal to metal contact, but it was enough that every time a load was switched on, on the same circuit, the trip would shut it down.
Thanks for the tip!
VERY EASY TO DO!!
I've just added a separate comment about this problem
HATE 25mm deep back boxes!!
Thanks for this video Jordan , this has given me the confidence to install my own 3 phase 😂
You got this haha
Enjoying your videos. We are having lots of work done at ours during a renovation. I don’t seek to learn electrical skills to do my own work. I seek to learn what should be done so I can question dodgy tradesman with some sort of background knowledge.
Thankyou so much for posting.
About to do some socket upgrades. Thankyou for this video. 😊
Good to see the waste water outlet of a washing machine right next to the consumer unit.😀
Is that drain pipe next to the consumer unit legal or even a good idea?
Not a good idea. The pipe can build up silt over time and back up during a drain cycle. Been there, done that, but not a couple of inches from the mains!
When fitting the socket back into the box, it's important to check that as you bend the wires, none of them are directly behind the face plate screws.
It is possible to tighten a face plate screw through a conductor that is immediately behind it, thus creating a short.
Thx for the detailed video. Most helpful
brilliant, well explained.
May I humbly suggest that as an electrician, you may not want to be wearing your wedding ring while working. There are too many places/times to have that metal interfere with your work protocols : Bumping into something live, getting caught on any kind of protruding wires/metal/construction etc. Any kind of jewelry was banned from anyone working construction of any kind in my company. Rings, necklaces, earrings, etc. were all required to be left at hime.
Does a ring add any more risk? If you were to bump into a live wire with a ring vs the skin on your finger you’ll get a shock regardless right?
There is indeed a very serious risk resulting from wedding rings, metal bracelets, metal watch wristbands and similar when working around circuits with large batteries: if a short circuit is created by the ring/bracelet, the ring/bracelet may get welded and become incandescent, cutting your finger/wrist or at least causing very serious injuries. This is the reason why I never wear my wedding ring or watches with non-plastic wristbands.
Yeah ok… that ring will make all the difference 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
It is a very good point, I remember years ago my grandfather got his wrist watch across the positive of a car battery and the clamp holding it down. Obviously there was no risk of electrocution but a very large current quickly heated up the wrist strap causing a bad burn. Even extra low voltage systems capable of delivering high currents can be dangerous
I agree, I'm not married but my boss (who was) always left his wedding ring at home. A band of gold, one of the best conductors, will make much better contact with the skin than just brushing past a live wire with the back of a knuckle. You tend to sweat under a ring as well, just to make the contact better.
Worst thing I ever found? A domestic socket in an extension, on a ring, each end of the ring fed from a different circuit breaker. The householder was pretty proud of his wiring 'skills' too! I very nearly walked away from that job but I persevered and persuaded the guy to pay me to do a full installation check. That the threw a few more faults like poorly connected equipotential bonds to the service pipes but nothing too major. I put another half turn on pretty much every screw terminal though (with my calibrated torque screw driver)
Nice sensible video, I too hate twisted wires especially into the live/neutral terminals, they always come loose.
This is one of those rare videos that really explains _why_ to do this or that, not just "because regs". Regulations are important, but they themselves exist for a reason, and these reasons are imo more convincing to a DIYer who might otherwise be tempted to bodge it. Well done!
Also if you reverse the live and neutral the fuse will be on the neutral. It can cause various risks like it can blow and leave voltage on the device or in case of ground fault it will be bypassed.
Good point. I was thinking of posting the same comment.
Before taking sockets or light switches off, loosen the screws 1 turn and tap the socket with your screwdriver handle. It will crack the paint seal, preventing chunks of paint breaking off.
Thanks for the information, can be helpful for people to learn
nice tip thanks
I usually run a Stanley knife around the outside to avoid peeling the paint or wallpaper off. Sometimes a tap is enough but sometimes not.
@@craigchamberlain I use a knife. especially in new builds where the faceplates are often siliconed around.
Never tap the socket, water and electrics don't mix.
Watching this as I have 2 switches that wont push in anymore rendering the sockets useless. You've scared me into getting an electrician now and ill be watching their methods. nice video, thank you.
Good vid. Covers all the essentials
When I checked replaced some sockets recently in my '2004 new build' home, with the entire house wired by the George Wimpey spark, I found every socket had the CPC's twisted and sleeved by the professional!
before the current fashion for EICR's, many installations in the 60s and 70's had twisted earth wires on the rings. And digitial testers were yet to be invented. Our family's electrician had an AVO 7 and a neon screwdriver, a wind-up megger for tricky tests and a Vauxhall Viva with a ladder on top.
I have done many of these in my house just using Google search to remind on colours and common sense - and did everything on your list (except earthing the backbox - I was happy with the risks relying on the screws to cover that)! So yay for I guess my Dad who must have taught me this stuff when I was growing up - I think he must have instilled the right principles/practices when messing around with electrics. Cheers anyway for the video! Another simple way to test for live is to grab a phone charger: have it charge your phone before turning off the socket ring main, then turn it off. If it stops charging - it's probably the right ring main/circuit. Do this process twice and it's almost certainly the right ring main. I recently bought a Klein tester to triple check the cables too, so slightly disappointed to hear they're not always accurate. But I figure it's better than not doing a wire test as a triple check. A DIYer isnt going to spend the presumably £800 or so for those posher testers....
Are you having a laugh? If you're being serious, let me give you some advice....don't go near electrics. And if you persist, invest in an audible socket tester.....forget all that phone charger stuff.
Brilliant and the bit about cross threading is invaluable 😎
I watched this again before replacing a double socket with built in usb in fhe FiL's flat. The wiring is from the early nineties.
The wire tails are imo way too short. It made securing a bit awkward. The earths were twisted together so I separated them and used some extra sleeving.
Thankfully all went back and tested well.
The dodgy socket was a gb fitted by a local oddjobber during covid. I replaced it with an MK one.
Thanks for the tutorial.
Love watching those videos. As I watch videos from people around the world about electrical stuff, it's funny to see the differences. I'm from Germany. You wouldn's see something to screw in a socket over here. So nothing to get loose over time and cause sparks. But I do like the buttons you have on each socket. Also a main switch is not mandatory over here in the distribution boxes. It is mandatory in the main distribution though nowadays. But don't expect that in older installations. Usually an RCD will do that job if present (again, depends on how old that stuff is). When we took over our house, they only way to power down the complete installation was to pull the NH fuses. Worst videos about electrical installation usually are videos from the US. Their stuff looks dangerous compared to European standards. In regards to cable colors. We use the same as you do. If you find something old from the 60s, red might be earth, neutral gray and black and blue would be live. So if you see red cables over here, be vary careful what you conned to what.
What about Italy? Twisted conductors under a thimble connector, no form of EICR so the installation is never tested and relies on faultless original execution. Live is grey, black, brown, or red even in a single-phase domestic installation and there seems to be no consistency as to which colour live is used for what.
Reversed polarity isn't "just" for the isolator ( switch). The fuse is always in the Live so the plug top properly wired will only "blow" the fuse in the neutral which then can leave the appliance still Live.
Perhaps use a "Martindale" socket tester first and after you've finished.
GREAT TIP.
The Martindale tester has now evolved, and is also manufactured by other companies.
One design can now pick up 30 different faults!
These testers are super cheap- a MUST HAVE!
TKY
Nice1..Artisan & thank u
Good informative video , a tip is to make sure the the wire in the socket are not behind the face plate screws as sometimes there can be upto 6-8 wires in the back box if it's a ring main with a spur coming off it.
Its also worth having a 'Socket Outlet Tester Receptacle Tester with Voltage Display Automatic Electric Circuit Polarity Voltage Detector' to double check the wiring is connected correctly in the socket.
Now we know who buys their tools on aliexpress 🤣
Got some (decent brand) faceplates from an ebay seller and delighted to find they threw in 2ft of earth sleeving. made me think that for DIYers this should be normal rather than an exception.
This is great knowledge to show, it might make some DIY'ers to think nah it isn't worth it and just get a electrian in. But the ones who are braver know how to do it correctly and more importantly safely.
Helpful video, thanks
By "getting the screws threaded" I think you mean CROSS threaded, which then strips the screw and often the lug. Much worse in plasterboard back boxes that seem more prone to cross threading.
Rubber grommets around the wires where they come through the metal back box. I'd have put that on the list. Tight wires against sharp metal might cause the wires to wear through if stretched. Also, you might need to buy longer screws if replacing the back box. And, very importantly, make sure nobody in the house could accidentally turn theConsumer Unit back on. And tell people what you're doing so they know why the power has been cut. In a family house where you're the only adult going near that's ok, but on a job with other people working there it's an obvious issue and it might need locking closed.
Grommets are nice to see & good working practice but not a requirement. So you cant really put it down as a customer mistake. & no doubt same as myself you've seen plenty of so called proffesionals that can't be arsed to use them.
I like to have a light switched on and plugged into another socket on the same circuit.
Light goes on - > stop work.
I used to suggest to sparkies I worked with to take the fuses from industrial switchboards with them whilst working on jobs. I know of two occasions where people have seen fuses left on the top of a board and “helpfully” put them back in. It’s the most silly mistakes that can kill the sparkie, always protect yourself first.
Times have changed re safety over the last forty years for the better, but an idiot today can still kill you just as effectively as they did years ago.
@@ashleybignell2366I always pull up lack of grommets when I'm installing thermostats. Imo it's a faulty install... Doesn't take much to fix
Great video - well explained thankyou. I'm a keen DIY-er and have changed many socket fronts. I recently added a double socket spur of an existing double on the downstairs ring. I found the existing socket didn't have a cpc to the back box - so added it in and did the same to the new socket.
So to my mind I've made a better job and improved the installation as a DIY guy - who's not under time pressure, than the professional who might (and did) cut corners to save time. Btw - I would only ever mod existing circuits and never run new before someone reaches for the wooden spoon ;).
Excellent point about DIY not under time pressure, except from spouse! Trouble is, you can offer a professional a bit extra to take a bit longer but their instincts, honed by quoting low to match low expectations of most domestic customers, override your offer so they still do quick sloppy work!
Just to add there were no grommets on the existing steel box - or sleeving on the original cabling either ! I added them.
Forget the receptacle cover plate take a look at the main circuit breaker panel next to a washing machine and practically leaning on the washing machine drain line.
Over the years I’ve had tons or cross threaded back boxes. I got a rethreading tool (taper tap) and never had to use it since…… bugger 😂. Nice video Jordan.
Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
@@neilturner6654 I still haven’t used it. I’m going to leave it at home one day and I bet you that’ll be the day I need it 😂
Great video, I think its worth mentioning that when isolating at the fuse box, not all isolation points are double pole, so you still have a potentially live cable, the neutral. And as you know because its potentially live, current will flow between the neutral and earth, if there is an rcd this will trip if not, you get a tingle! I would always recommend a DIY'er to switch the main switch, or call an electrician. Its nice to see that in some installations now in the UK people are using double pole isolation (rcbo).
An RCBO is a device that combines MCB and RCD functionality. It has nothing to do with whether it is dual pole or not. Both are available, but not from all manufacturers. Dual pole breakers are convenient for some type of testing, but they do not add much to safety in countries where circuits are routinely polarised. If there is a requirement to isolate both line an neutral, then there is always the main switch. That cuts off all the power, but as I mentioned, it is primarily convenience, not a safety issue.
@@TheEulerIDany residual current device is at least double pole(L+N), otherwise it wouldnt even work in the first place.
@@zaxmaxlax Whilst it is true that RCDs (and therefore RCBOs) have to have both line and neutral feeds, poles refer to the breaker part, not the detector (and switches in general). In my case, the RCBOs in my CU only break the phase line, not the neutral line (which is what the overload function does too). There are diagrams on every RCBO showing whether it breaks both lines or not. Mine most definitely only breaks the phase line.
So, no. You have misunderstood the terminology. Poles refer to anything that breaks or switches circuits, not to detection devices. Stand-alone RCBOs are most often single pole, as are most MCBs, at least in the UK. RCDs will almost invariable switch both poles.
A lot (most really) of rcbo's are still single pole
@@zaxmaxlax they are double pole in that sense but alot still are still only single pole switches and don't isolate neutral
I have lived in a few countries....i am never surprised how people wire up their houses.... Sadly in Germany often in the same property the positive is sometimes on the left and sometimes on the right... Which can affect electrical goods purchased in the UK/Ireland.
Good video as ever.
My house built in 1974 had a ceiling light in the dining room.and the shaver socket in the downstairs bathroom, connected to next doors house and only after a new 18th edition consumer board was found that all of next doors lighting circuits were powered by my fuse board, we cut the wires, so next door had no ceiling lights for months, until some bright spark found the cut wires going to my board, through an 18" void between the house, and 7 ish yards (two connected garages) between fuse boards
I'm confident to undertake tasks like this and my working practice is that I have passed all your advice 100%, I'm super cautious with electricity. As an very experienced senior Architectural Technician, the one bug bear I have is front plates not being level. I happens far too often, mainly by apprentices, their gaffer should take much better care in teaching the apprentice the correct working practice. I saw a front plate and back box 15mm out of level 4 months ago. The guy who owned the company was on site, I pulled him about it and he thought is was funny!!
15mm!! That has to be a record over such a small distance!! And there's me making sure the spirit level bubble is in the middle of the black lines as there is always space each side.
The consumer unit in the video would benefit from being out of level by a few mil, for when that washer drain pees water all over it! At least some of it would drain away...
I am so pleased to hear you stress about proving the circuit you are about to work on is beyond doubt … dead, verifying you see it switch off as you knock the breaker off - remembering someone could have reversed the L and N connections too! Breakers can and do fail (older mcb and mccbs may not be positive indicating) and sometimes circuits aren’t wired as you might expect or the Reg’s dictate. You missed stating ensuring that everyone who may be in the vicinity knows the circuit must remain dead and must not interfere with anything until you give the all clear (lock off and tag - would be the ideal), verbal, visual/ signage. Use the right tools too - cutters for cutting only, wire strippers for stripping insulation. Check copper not kicked at the strip point when removing insulation.
Not a fan of looping the end of the stripped wire as you stress the copper on such tight 180 degree bends, if it’s clamped on the return bent end and not the straight copper then you are passing current through a reduced cross section and thus derated cable on the bend! In my opinion always better to keep straight and ensure conductors are seated correctly in the clamp. I always have a separate earth back box to the socket (ring earth paired on the other earth connection - standardised on double sockets so can do) that covers you where the box screw threads strip or are loose and could become live. In machinery and associated cubicle/ panel building wiring (to EN 60294-1) you are not allowed to use any securing/ mounting/ fixing screws to be used as an earth - the earth has to be a separate stress free connection. So still surprised wiring Reg’s have not caught up and don’t dictate domestic sockets are structured to ensure this best practise. Above all do not rush, check what you are doing - professionals make mistakes when they rush or get distracted too! Good to see your wire pull tests on individual connections. The devil is in the detail, well done.
But he said doubling it over not to have double thickness, but to take into account that only a single wire is being put into the terminal,
So either you have a single CPC going into the terminal, or you have a single and another wire (doubled over), which basically means two wires and I presume most likely better grip, and even if the bend breaks, it's still one/two wires which was the intended purpose.
I like the tip about cutting a new thread. I had this issue the other day but thankfully the screw managed to cut the thread for me after a few tricky turns. If it had broken I’d have been in trouble as I’d just finished plastering and decorating the room! I did actually use an older megger tester to check the rcd despite not being qualified
Had a similar issue and tiles over the box luckily my work carried 3.5mm nuts so just attached one behind the original thread.
Well that’s a worry of my mind ! Phew
Turn left first until you feel the exact begining of the thread ... nearly never damaged a thread (when it happened it was mainly because someone damaged it before me).
This is especially handy when removing and putting back self tappers in soft materials avoiding to cut another thread instead of using the one that is already there.
If it's the thread on the adjustable side that's broken you can rob one from another backbox
Excellent stuff - thanks (DIY-er)
You can also buy spacer frames which allow the socket to sit proud. That can give you wiggle room.
But they make your house look like a 70s caravan!
one thing that worried me was the proximity of the washing machine outfloww to the main board , just seems a bad idea.
I saw that to . Had to sit down and have a cup of tea ! Doubt I will sleep tonight with the worry . Oh yes I will because I’m not a total wanker like you .
@@tonywright8294 The evidence suggests otherwise.
@@tonywright8294 my my what wit and repartee
@@tonywright8294 Eh..? Who's a wanker..? Thought that was Davo Savery 🤣
Excellent vid mate
Just modernised and added some new sockets on our home- an ex council house from 60s. Our main issues:
-Shallow 16mm back boxes needed to be replaced by 25mm
-Earth connector in 1gang metal back box was directly behind the screw lug
-No grommets on back box meant the mains wires had been worn to bare copper
-some VERY tough bricks to chisel into to allow for deeper boxes
I also once repaired a faulty light pendant- I turned the lights breaker off but the other lights stayed on, they had been wired into the fire alarm breaker!
Here's a warning to other DIY'er. I only turned off the circuit I was working on, and when the earth wire touched the neutral the earth leakage breaker turned everything off, which gave me one hell of a shock, not an electric shock, but a frightening experience.
Yes, that's happened to me many times. I wasn't scared because I understand how that happens, but it's annoying if you were relying on a light (on a different circuit, obviously) to see what you are doing. So another important tool for electrical work is a battery powered worklight because sometimes you have to turn off the main switch and work in a dark place.
Boilers should have a dp isolator. I usually flip the switch pop the fuse and test
.. sometimes I trip the RCD and hear screams because of unsaved work....
Im am 53 years old. i qualified at 23. I have not done much domestic work for years (tended to spend more time moving furniture than working, and then theres the customers🙄) but i can honestly say i have never, ever used a spirit level when changing a socket, thats a level of dedication i never managed to reach!
I am sure you are a very dedicated individual
To be honest, after 10 years I trust my eyes more than an apprentice with a level
@@artisanelectrics In fact, if the socket is close to a ' not quite horizontal' skirting board, it should be installed parallel - otherwise it will look very odd!
3 mistakes that come quick to mind...
1. Earth cable sheathing clamped in terminal instead of bare copper due to being slid off earth wire.
2. No earth connection to metal back box when there is no continuity of the earth terminals to the screws on the rear of the socket.
3. Overtightening terminals and causeint the cables to crush and snap
Like the tip on getting a screw tap. I saw some electricians use a relatively cheap socket tester (about £12) so bought one. Also I've found having some slightly longer M3.5 screws than the ones supplied, handy for some backplates.
Make sure there are grommets in the cable entry holes in metal backboxes. If you start a job like this and realise you don't have any grommets you're definitely going to 'conveniently forget' about them.
It's easy to fit a grommet after the event, and that's just to run a sharp knife through it and the you can fit it over the cable and put it home. There's not danger of touching the cable touching the metal back box as the ends will be pushed together. It's also a useful retro-fit as many back boxes did not have grommets installed in past years. Saves having to disturb the connections.
One important thing missed. After proving dead ensure the cb is prevented from being re-closed so someone doesn’t come and switch back on while you’re working on it. Or at the very minimum tell everyone what your doing and not to switch it on
Also you should have a proving unit for your tester,
Sticking the fuse in your pocket is just a distant memory now…
@@NowInAus Not for me, although I’d need much bigger pockets 😏
Brilliant little video. Thanks. Confirms how this DiYer has done such little jobs for 50 years
Very helpful video.
Rethreading the metal box lugs is a useful tip - I didn't know you could do that! Thanks.
You can’t it’s against the law .
Why??
@@tonywright8294bullshite.
@@tonywright8294 As asked below, if it is illegal to rethread the metal box lugs why would Mr Artisan Electrics recommend it??
@@tonywright8294 Eh..? Which law and why..? Please explain.
Nice video. Education is power. Some Pros will not like this stuff being shown, but I’m of the opinion that better to show how it’s done right than have some poor sod endanger themselves for no good reason. The DIYer is going to have a go regardless, so why not educate them properly.
That is what we thought, better teach people then pretend it won't happen
Also... makes it safer and easier to work with for some subsequent professional in following years. Contrary to so many tradespeople who deliberately leave a mess for people who to work with later
Nice - It's on my bucket list to do an electrical course one day and hope when I do I get a trainer like you! 🇬🇧🇺🇦
That rethreading trick is amazing!!!!
Checking the incoming socket to ensure you get the L and N connections correct to avoid reverse polarity is vital. So very important not to go by the photograph that you have just been told to take !
Well it should surely have L and N marked on it by law I should think .
Well the photo will show you which colour connects to which letter, so it has a use.
@@Thurgosh_OG That as well .
All screws are threaded. The term to use if the threads are not engaged/meshed properly is cross threaded.
or 'stripped' 'non existent'
Got some lovely short wiring on my FCUs I'm putting in. But only because I've chased plastic conduit into my lovely 1950s solid concrete walls. Plenty of cable, but the excess pushes up/down neatly into the ceiling void above/ below them. I believe some companies (Schneider Electric for one?) make spacers if you want USB sockets into standard 25mm back boxes without all the extra hassle of ripping out the back boxes too. Just adds 10mm protrusion from the wall though.
Great video thank you.Just a quick question,some sockets have L1 and L2. Does it matter which one you use ?
Can I ask what the electrician's view is on using the rcd test button on a socket tester to identify and turn off the ring main?
Great video. Only critique, you should not switch the mains switch off under load. Shut off all MCB’s, RCBO’s and RCD’s before shutting the Main Switch off. Also, do not switch the Main Switch back on unless all of the above is still off.
Explain the difference in meaning between off and OFF
on and ON
Your CORPORATE GOVERNMENT dog school failed to teach you
and you failed to read and teach yourself
and now you don't have clue
Explain in which context the above words are used.
Provide examples.
My youngest school students know the answer.
Thanks pal
It's good to look back at the basic's ,we need this at times. Great video and tips👍
Glad it was helpful!
My tip would be don't assume the wiring is as you imagine and test frequently for isolation. I gutted our house before a rewire but had the juice on for lighting etc. Entire house was on 3 old wire fuses (no MCB,RCD etc). Heating was via economy 7 night storage heaters isolated via a crusty old switch. Flipped the switch, did a DVM check to ensure no juice, removed the first storage heater and isolated the ends. Removed the second one, isolated the ends- on a roll! Unscrewed the power from the third, for some reason the dangling wires sparked my spidey senses- stuck a nice long metal screwdriver across the L+N- massive bang (though even that didn't trip the fuse). Turns out some genius had wired the last storage heater as an unfused spur off the ring circuit for the sockets. To this day not sure why I thought of "testing" it. Scary buisness. In my mind, an isolation switch labelled "night storage heaters" should isolate anything in the house purporting to be a night storage heater. Lesson learned. Other than the 3 wire fuses there would have been nothing other than the DNO 100A between me and the national grid.
I can beat this.
When I moved into my house (albeit 30 years years ago) I found a redundant piece of wiring that was still live, with the end taped off with cellotape! I also found a 13A socket outlet that was connected to the incoming side of the consumer unit so was only protected by the DNO's fuse - fortunately, being an 'older' installation the fuse was only 40A.
I used to install, service and repair hospital x-ray equipment, one of our specifications was that any trunking in the room associated with the equipment carried ONLY wiring for the equipment. I once decommissioned a room ready for strip-out before new equipment was installed, during which I removed the (3 phase) main fuses and disconnected the input and output wiring to a UPS - after this everything should have been electrically safe...A couple of days later I received a phone call from the office, the strip out contractor had cut through some wiring in the trunking and there had been a 'flash and loud bang'. I advised that I had pulled all the fuses etc. so it should have been safe. Turned out that wiring from the ring final circuit of the floor above had been brought into the x-room trunking for a couple of yards before being returned back upstairs.
When my sister-in-law rewired her parents' old house, the electrician found lead pipes with squashed ends of just poking out of the walls where the gas sconces had been; they were still attached to the gas main! I guess they had become redundant in the 1930s. It had been a council house until the 1980s.
Rewirable bs3036 are notorious for their large instant breaking capacity, even a 100a 1361 cutout fuse won't blow instantly at 100amp ,
Why do cables not have cpc/earth sleeving in place, instead of bare copper? 💁🏽♂
Nobody knows 😱
@@tonywright8294 Yes they do. It's cheaper and makes the cable slightly less bulky.
Many years ago an electrician told me that another reason for the bare copper earth was to make it easier to split/open the outer sleeve. Expose ½" of bare copper, grip it with pliers and pull perpendicular to the cable. The copper core will literally slice open the outer sleeve.
Also means you’re more likely to make contact with the cpc if you put a screw/nail through the cable…
@@AbbieMarchant
"The copper core will literally slice open the outer sleeve."
That's not why the CPC isn't insulated though. Its mainly cost.
Its not really good practice to spit the outer insulation that way, not good for the CPC. I grip both live and neutral.
Always enjoy your videos. Any chance of doing a video where you demonstrate using a two pole voltage tester on the wiring inside a live socket? This would be to show what results the tester would come up with if the socket was correctly or incorrectly wired or if there was a problem within the circuit somewhere. The manuals never go into any detail about this.
Great Video with some very useful tips for DIY'er to do a safe and proper job. However the majority of the tools you described (and I have all of them except the MFT) are really not needed if the individual isolates the house at the consumer unit then does a like for like replacement. In this case the minimum required is a flat head screwdriver. One further tip to avoid the need to redecorate, take a stanley blade along the outside of the faceplate to break any paint attached to it and avoid it tearing when you take off the faceplate. Also rather than buy a 50 or 100m roll of cpc sleaving ask your sparky for some the next time he/she does some work for you as a couple of meters will last you a lifetime.
The sleeving is available in shorter lengths at all usual outlets in UK: Screwfix, Toolstation, TLC, CEF, B&Q. Local electrical suppliers usually happy to supply any length, especially if you buy other stuff from them. I have several diameters of earth sleeving to cater for lighting and power up to 4mm². Plus blue and brown over sleeve for lighting 2-way switch. DiY should be done by the book, even if a professional says "Don't bother"
another diy trick that we do in the states is called pigtailing instead of placing multi wires under one terminal(most devices in the states this is against manufacturer use) use a wago and have only one lead to the terminal less chance of a loose connection
Thanks for the tip!
@artisanelectrics also works great to extend short cables as well(the real reason I started to use wagos than after having to untwist earth's for testing another use ) now I'm comfortable with them to use all the time. A bit pricey though hard to be competitive but I do try to tell my clients I spend more for a more reliable job sometimes it helps most times they just want to save pennies (yes we still have and make them for some ungodly wasteful reasons lol)
i love how you brits place your c/u in the most in accessible places than say how great and superior your methods are over the west lol
Yes
Some places are strange, but I have never lived in a house where it isn't inside a cupboard that is easy to access.
It's down to space we have some of the smallest houses in the developed world. New builds tends to be a bit better like above a door. Mine is under the stairs in my house which is an open area so isnr to bad to access.
@HA05GER lol same here in my area of the states but really cram a washer of all things next to it 😅
@@wizard3z868yeh stupid next to a washing machine makes no sense but being the UK we tend to struggle with space. My mum old house had tumble dryer in the bathroom just struggled to find a better place.
when screwing in turn the screw to the left instead of the right until you feel it sort of click, then turn to the right. this will often prevent "murdering" the thread or re-threading, even more so with screws in plastic. not sure about UK sockets, I don't have those... just like we don't have any switches on the sockets or having to sleeve the earth because they don't come as bare wires, or having metal boxes in the wall. Polarity here also is more or less for good measure I think. My sockets have been done the correct way. Light circuits? nahh just put everything on (usually) 16A fuses. but we don't generally have our fuseboxes on the most impossible places like next to the washing machine drain. I've always liked the UK plugs though with fuses in them etc.
Love the washing machine water output pipe next to the consumer unit 😮 wow
I would recommend NOT installing USB sockets because the USB standards have changed numerous times and I have never found a faceplate socket with a high enough current rating to quick charge
They're crap. I hate USB sockets and I won't fit them until someone comes out with one that has a switch for the USB part. They're using power all the time the circuit is energised and they make testing a pain.
"It just feels wrong" because I could be charging for it
Can you use a T connector or 3 way for a ring circuit to the socket? So that only 1L,n,e cable go to the socket
Yes had same issue recently with MK I think theres threadlock like you say as they loosen as they go in after a couple of turns! Deffo check the cables are gripped i use my insulated long nose pliers where its tight for access.