I started a new job a few days ago, guess what I found? I thought the previouse jobs were funny because of what I found as contractor. Three live wires in a ceiling rose but no neutal at all ha ha. Then the good man who is supposed to be electrical man on that site tried to install an led emergency light in the bath in the same room, but had connected all the black wires to the neutral including the emergency feed wire that feed the batteries ha ha ha. And on the two live wires that were permanent in the ceiling apart from the main live wire, it had two blue tages or sleeving on it and the same was with the other one in the bath. Nothing worked so he called me, ha ha ha ha. I mean I can go on and on and tell you so many funny things it makes MR BEAN FILM IN THE REAL WORLD. In the same work place did a visual inspectoin on emergency lights, all the batteries are dead on- around 400 lights are like that, filled the paper work- and guess the lady incharge said? How do you know it failed emergency test or not you have to do 3 hourse emergency test, told her you do not do three hourse emergency test on dead batteries ha ha ha. THAT MEANS for the last two years or so people were simplying filling the monthly emergency test as passed until all the batteries went dead. 400 Batteries dead in the emergency lights imagine that.... I got another 3 building to do.... Good luck to me...
You do know that those who write the various editions of electrical regulations have never turned a screwdriver in their lives, they just make electrical installations more expensive, in the name of safety. But they have never worked on 1890 houses that was last rewired in the sixties.
On the bright side, the board was in a great place to work on. Reasonable level, bright location, no walls within 1mm of both sides. Basically a dream compared to some.
Having done a fair bit of amateur wiring, I have to say the worst wiring I've seen was the stuff left over from the 80's council contractors that upgraded our 1950's house from aluminium to copper. I have to leave the building when electricians visit because there's only so much tutting I can tutting and sucking of air through teeth I can tolerate. I think it's fair to say there isn't a lot of wiring in our house that is to regulation, although to be fair the regulations change on a weekly basis anyway.
I think this probably leads to a good idea for a "Here's how to do DIY right" playlist... tell us how not to do things, how to do things properly, and point out where you *definitely* need an electrician, and where you *probably* want one, and where you can do things for yourself if you're comfortable enough to do so
@@dankdavies good luck booking one in and getting them to actually do the job that you want. Main reason people DIY isn't to save money, it's because actually getting a tradesman in, hard enough, isn't even the end of it. You've then got to convey the job to them and hope you don't end up with something else completely.
@@spinner4148 you're living on another planet mate, what you need to do is use a reputable tradesman. Not once have I had a customer ask me to carry out a job to then supply them with something they didn't require and then go further to not rectify the mishap. What kinda madness are you spouting?
Always makes me cringe reading the diyers reviewing the electrical products on Screwfix and using the product review section to "show off" by saying how they did this or that 🔥
Not sure if anyone has said it already but that bus bar that you use on the lower side of the breakers can be modified by breaking of the teeth that line up with the neutral pole. Then use the normal cable entry in the neutral to run a neutral wire to the neutral bus for that RCD. Make sure you insert the bus bar so the teeth are at the back and the angle comes forward to the front of the breaker
You should never swat a wasp. An injured (or squashed) wasp releases a powerful pheromone that has the effect of attracting other wasps (from the same hive), which will then instinctively attack any non-wasp that has the hive pheromone on them. And I learned that from Vic Reeves and Bob Mortimer.
nice vid! i really like seeing tradies clean up after working too, i like how you added that. not all tradies do it, and when a sparkie did stuff where i live there was bits of plasterboard and bits of stripped wires when they left. i create these bits of stripped wires too, but they're MUCH smaller lol i'm into more low voltage stuff.
Wasp queens will nest up and hibernate during winter. Especially in houses with the old insulation batts. They wake up once temperatures get up and around 10 degrees
I love Hager but they need to come out with a single module rcbo/afdd breaker, I think your solution is the best solution, I think I might have put it on a 40A RCBO but still all protected.. They have had a while to come out with one and with other manufacturers coming out with them its unusual for Hager to be behind the game..
Hager do have a single module RCBO not sure at AFDD’s though but at 100 a pop I can’t see much people spec’ing it, their SPD is a two module device which is pretty much the same as all the others as it doesn’t need and MCB connected to it.
@@DTech101 New Regs mean properties that are deemed high risk will have to have socket outlets covered by AFDD's but agree that its unlikely that anyone will choose until the price point comes down, but it was not that long ago you could have said the same about RCBO's... AFDD's need something like 2A in which to trip so with led lighting its unlikely they will ever be required for lighting as that would be pointless.. But sockets and shower and cooker will probably be mandatory in the next edition of the regs as long as prices come down a bit.. Hopefully Hager will have caught up by then and got a single module AFDD
It’s very interesting how different this is done than North America. Here each circuit has its own combination GFCI/AFCI (RCD/AFDD) breaker. The bus bars are built into the breaker box (consumer unit). Things are also broken down into many many more individual lower amp circuits. That whole mess in the attic (loft) would all come to the consumer unit as individual circuits.
By default these use a rechargeable battery so it should be obvious if it's low, and really easy to test, if he has the charger handy it can print while plugged in.
I know its a 2 year old video, but please be careful even with the plugs, i watched a video from another youtuber who was fixing a boiler connection, long story short, the plug he unplugged was WIRED LIVE! from another connection. Always check dodgy DIY stuff.
Could be perfectly OK if done properly. 4 way extensions are often made to BS 1363. Extension leads are not automatically wrong. Load considerations, fuse rating, cable type, length and location are important factors.
@@tobysherring1369 in Australia (240V) all 4 way power boards MUST contain a 10A circuit breaker and be rated for 10A. Likewise all mains extension cables must be rated for minimum 10A. I've heard in the US you can get extension cables that can't handle much current, and nothing stops people using them for full 15A loads, leading to melting, fire risk, etc.
@@iamdave84 I lived in Aus for ten years and that was a good feature. I didn't like the thin plug pins or 40A-fused radials much. Simpler than fused plugs but less localised protection. Here in UK it's common to see people making extensions with thin flex and not downgrading the fuse in the plug. In a commercial setting you'd hope the PAT would pick it up.
@@tobysherring1369 yeah, I agree, our plugs suck. UK ones are far superior for a stack of reasons. Foot damage is their only downfall, but worth it for the benefits!
More like a career switch from pyro to DIY. That looks more like shape charges at 4:45 and that yellow wire outside must be leading to a detonator somewhere.
It's never another spark that created the mess, always mr diy. Let's face it you never get an electrician making up figures instead of actually testing.
I'm from Belgium and I can tell you that our country is quite behind on safety. First time I saw an AFDD, never heard of it before and Belgium's codebook doesn't mention it as far as I can tell (a quick search doesn't show anything at least). Pretty much two RCCB's are needed: 300mA before all breakers and an extra 30mA for "wet" rooms (e.g. bathroom) Not much else for safety. Now imagine bringing a very old house with crumbly wiring up to code, you don't have to redo the wiring to add earth. Mainly document the wires and where everything is located
Correct about the single module AFDD/RCBO’s. But not many at all have made one yet. Think at the moment only 3 brands are actually on the market. Fusebox, wylex(for well over a year already) and lewden
It doesn’t need grommet strip on the back either as the entry holes the cables are coming through in the wall are preventing the cable from snagging on thr edge of the board…clearly not that hard to see 🤣
Love the retro calculator watch. Does the Bosch screwdriver have the correct insulation resistance, I know some of the sparky tools are certified up to 1kV so how does that fit with the Bosch? Not criticising just interested as I have the old version of that screwdriver that has metal parts on it so I don’t use it for anything that may be live, the old one is a lot more chunky and has a torque gearbox that locks up when you are manually turning it.
I am a very handy bodger and I can fix most things myself. But I never mess with electrical or plumbing. They are two things that can destroy your house and destroy you.
I know that feeling, when the day doesn't go as planned and you wish you stayed in bed. Also that mess wasn't so bad, I have seen far worse. Great video. Cheers from Canada
Why would you use drums of arctic flex, weatherproof sockets and trailing sockets on a fixed loft installation? Got to be dearer on parts than doing it properly.
My experience is that the customer doesn't think anything's wrong, because it's been working for 10 years, and it's an electrician who's done the job, right? That's what they always tell me 🤣
Had a client before who was trying to say I was just trying to get more work from his rental as he also believed it was perfectly fine as an "electrician" had done the rewire. I'd usually be professional and just show them the photos and report but instead left him with this: "But Doctor, I can't possibly have an STD. I've never worn condoms and have always been fine".
Couldn't see well, but those RCDs should feed separate rolls of breaker right? If they're all on one bus bar then both RCDs have to be tripped? Power comes from two poles main switch then feeds L and N to the RCDs and after that, you treat every RCD as it's own circuit right? All just theory for me still. That's why I'm so curious!
I fitted an outside socket today using a fused spur. I turned off the rcb labelled “living room main” and began and my work. When installing the new wiring I contacted the new cables with the old and it caused the main switch to turn off. Why would this be? Found it kinda weird considering I had turned the rcb off.
Most breakers only switch the live off. The earth wire should always be 0 volts, with very little deviation. But neutral, depending on how long the wire run is, and what other appliances you have, can have stray voltages on it, when you put a meter on it, you may see 4, 5, even 10VAC and not think much of it. But that can easily push 25ma through earth and trip the RCD if they touch. So most likely, when wiring stuff up, you had let neutral and earth touch, and in that moment +25mA was seen by the RCD and pop. I had the same issues fitting some lights in a garage, that was a long fused spur off a kitchen ring. It ran through an isolator switch which was turned off, but of course it only switched the live. Due to high load in the kitchen at the time there was some a few volts on the neutral when I got the meter on it.
Yep, kal has got it covered but be careful of 'borrowed' neutrals or even lives sitting on ring older ring main circuits, you turn off the rcd but the circuit is tapped into another circuit keeping it live. Switch off and check for voltage... stay safe
@@glennlockey1012 Indeed, In this case, and likely OP's case it's not inherently an issue. But it does expose one glaring problem for those who are paying attention. If you were holding a neural conductor on your ring main, it's near 0VAC so safe right... sure. But what if the neural back at the fuse box becomes disconnected somehow. there is no longer a path pulling neutral to 0VAC, and the neutral will rise to 120/240 (wherever you live) The same can happen if you have a very heavy load somewhere, particularly if the neutral has a bad higher resistance connection. Your heavy load will be filling up the neutral quicker than it can empty through your distribution board, so you get voltage on the neutral, potentially dangerous. If someone screwed up and were to put a breaker on neutral instead of live... oh boy...
@@jamesdyas542 exactly, however the cable itself is just cable, and will have its own voltage rating written on it. Arctic flex I’ve seen is usually rated 300/500V, no matter the colour
@@entertainmentbydjt Just out of interest is using yellow for 240v illegal/doesnt meet the regs or just best practice? Or is the wrong to not use yellow for 110v on a site?
@@James-dv1df I’ve seen 110v leads with black rubber cable used, matching the colour of ceeform connector to the colour of cable is convention, and to the best of my knowledge is not regulation. They are just PVC cables, with their own respective voltage ratings, most Arctic flex I’ve seen is 300/500v and can be used for any appropriate task. If you had a household 13a extension lead with yellow cable, you likely wouldn’t question it. On a building site if a 110v lead was made from blue cable, it may be confusing, so likely easiest to match the colours. Though ceeform connectors can only be plugged into the correctly rated sockets due to the keying.
omg , im a electrical tested to destruction madhead, done few diy bits but nout on the DB. this place is absolutely shocking. id be afraid to live there
Would have been interesting if you pointed out reason why you cant put your signature to something. For example what's exactly wrong with stuff in attic or at 7:00. I mean if you already put 20 min video on youtube you can should expect that non electricians watch this and want to know.
This doesn't look that different from typical US wiring. Aside from the grounds cut out all over the place it looks like what we have here. Individual circuits running all the way back to the panel, junction boxes all over the place, cables stapled every foot or so. Seen houses where every single outlet in the kitchen has its own run of cable 100 feet or more back to the panel. Also seen others where there are subpanels upon subpanels in different sections of the house so they only had to run one thick cable instead of a bunch of small ones. Pretty common to see a big array of random electrical devices and smaller subpanels expanding out from the main panel in older houses. AFCIs (AFDDs) are required here in some states but it's not clear that they do much. I have drawn an arc between hot and neutral and seen the AFCI do absolutely nothing. Some states have gotten rid of the requirement because they cost $80 a piece or so and most new construction houses have a 42 circuit panel or larger, sometimes even 84 circuit, and there hasn't been any clear benefit to the AFCIs.
Less than 3mins in and I’d walk away as soon as the customer says ‘I’ll supply the board’ also as you said your not sure how it’s loaded-trust what you know. Sorry gents couldn’t finish the rest of the video.
The electrics may be iffy, but the roof structure is superbly solid, it’s the same as mine, built 1969 by Wimpy non of that bent metal jointing plates, just big nuts and bolts.
"Arctic flex is for 110v". You do come out with some BS! I agree it's not suitable for the application, but that's not why! And junction boxes are well within regs as long as they're wired properly, accessible, correct rating, no exposed single insulated cable, etc. You seem to think all JBs are automatically a 'fail'. Much bigger problems to deal with here.
I'm no electrician and don't do DIY electrics other than very basics like changing light fittings however watching some of these videos to learn more and if I want to change occupation. I feel like some electricians are too critical on small issues which reduces the impact when there is a real issue. Still learning but surely you can have as many junction boxes as you like as long as you can access them and they are rated for the load in use and also not using them in the wrong circuit e.g. used to spur off to multiple circuits on 2.5 or something? Surely you cant be too critical for something that meets regulations but is just not best pratice?
@@James-dv1df junction boxes are a specified way to join cable, spur, extend circuits, wire light switches etc in the regs! They have to be properly used, the right one for the situation, etc. However you do it, multiple spurs off one unfused spur from a ring final is wrong - junction boxes are not the only way to do it wrong! Yes, he does pick up on minor issues that may be fine, but the more 'faults', the more they can quote to put it right. Other sparks would quote to do a bank of sockets in the attic - clearly marked 'lighting only' and on a 5a fused spur, and have that mess sorted in a couple of hours. The unqualified guy up there is left to do work which is connected to power without inspection. Corey has incorrectly identified the garden flex as 110v, put main tails by heating pipes, said EICR is only for 'fixed wiring', not used grommet strip on CU, and condemned JBs without any testing or evidence of fault. All wrong. Not Artisan at all - just average but very expensive. You don't always get what you pay for! One of the others caused structural damage to a house because no site visit or plan was completed, and he didn't know what a timber frame is!
I think his boggle about joint boxes are 1 the more their are the more chance of a dodgy connection 2 someone willing to use these items excessively are more likely to be a diyer or a kitchen fitter than a Electrician 3 it can take days to find locate hidden JBs. Just my opinion folks.
@@chrisardern4594 true - but they're not hidden, and who says what's excessive? Like anything, it needs to be visually inspected and tested. Circuits without any JBs can be full of poor connections inside sockets, switches, CUs etc.
I hate the strict regulations sometimes in my country but at the same time I'm happy they are there to make houses idiot proof before being bought😂 That house right there would lose its insurance with that electric work in my country.
Intruction Manual?! Next thing you know, we'll be watching you stop to ask for directions! You might want to try a vacuum on the wasps... dunno if they can come back out, though! ;-)
I find these videos really interesting, but I'm not an electrician and if I'm honest, I spend most of these types of videos asking myself what's he talking about lol.
Can never seem to justify spending all that money on Hager. They always seem to behind the times and their solutions for DP RCBOs, AFDDs and SPDs are clunky and seem like a massive afterthought.
...and the price! I had to change RCBOs in two DBs from Type AC because they were feeding all the socket cct's in a bunch of "mission-critical" offices that were overladen with switch-mode PSUs dumping enough earth leakage to make half of them fail basic RCD test. The Eaton board cost us £48 per RCBO, the Hager (the bigger board of course) cost £159 per unit.
I’m not an electrician at all, I watch these videos because I find them interesting. Could someone please explain why they have everything plugged in their loft including the fridge what could be the reason for this. Thanks
I'm not an electrician just an observer. Part of the reason is that they've added home automation devices (I could see "LightwaveRF" as one of them in the video) and adding them onto plug sockets avoids the need for the work to be compliant to electrical regulations as it's then not classed as fixed wiring. It also allows them to easily remove it and revert to the previous fixed wiring if they leave the house just by switching the plugs around etc (common on rented houses I would assume). It's a shame that they did so much wrong here, as much of the stuff appears well mounted and labelled, they've just made questionable choices with the type of cable chosen, containment, and some of the connections (lack of earths for example). As the guy said in the video, it appears they've got some sort of electrical experience, but aren't an electrician
Lot of comments about just unplugging the attic extras. An EICR doesn’t include plugged in items. Yours might. Mine doesn’t. Saying it should doesn’t make it so. Quote me a reg definition? It’s what PA testing is for. Clearly the offending items would all fail a Pat check 😮 So given he’s been commissioned to do an EICR. He’s unplugged what he doesn’t like and informed the customer. Good for him 😊 However, if he starts cutting plugs off things that he is not entitled to be examining he is liable for their destruction. It’s not even that bad at first glance. Seemingly class 2 equipment all nicely clipped to provide strain relief… just some poor choices. Not really a rampant fire risk. Ooh the drama!😅
looks like what an actual electricians apprentice did to my house once..........wires everywhere. Had to get a different electrician, to rip it all out and start again..........
Penny washer fashioned out of a 2p was either made of Bronze from 1971 to 1992 then from 1992 to present copper plated steel. Of course the old Penny was the size of the 2p today.
1982 was the cut off date for all alloy 1 and 2p coins. From then on steel blanks were used. This was during the tenure of a certain iron lady, funny that. Archeoligists and metal detectorists of future centuries will not have much luck with these coins. They rot very quickly in the ground.
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Do u not think that the test date sticker should still be on boards??
I started a new job a few days ago, guess what I found? I thought the previouse jobs were funny because of what I found as contractor. Three live wires in a ceiling rose but no neutal at all ha ha. Then the good man who is supposed to be electrical man on that site tried to install an led emergency light in the bath in the same room, but had connected all the black wires to the neutral including the emergency feed wire that feed the batteries ha ha ha. And on the two live wires that were permanent in the ceiling apart from the main live wire, it had two blue tages or sleeving on it and the same was with the other one in the bath. Nothing worked so he called me, ha ha ha ha. I mean I can go on and on and tell you so many funny things it makes MR BEAN FILM IN THE REAL WORLD. In the same work place did a visual inspectoin on emergency lights, all the batteries are dead on- around 400 lights are like that, filled the paper work- and guess the lady incharge said? How do you know it failed emergency test or not you have to do 3 hourse emergency test, told her you do not do three hourse emergency test on dead batteries ha ha ha. THAT MEANS for the last two years or so people were simplying filling the monthly emergency test as passed until all the batteries went dead. 400 Batteries dead in the emergency lights imagine that.... I got another 3 building to do.... Good luck to me...
You do know that those who write the various editions of electrical regulations have never turned a screwdriver in their lives, they just make electrical installations more expensive, in the name of safety. But they have never worked on 1890 houses that was last rewired in the sixties.
On the bright side, the board was in a great place to work on. Reasonable level, bright location, no walls within 1mm of both sides. Basically a dream compared to some.
A couple of hours and it's all just another job done
What’s amazing to me is you called that a dream location, and that would not meet minimum code in North America for accessibility!
But everything just went rapidly downhill from there. That loft was insane!
At least lots of the things were labelled@@PhilThurston64 ! That's gotta help
Having done a fair bit of amateur wiring, I have to say the worst wiring I've seen was the stuff left over from the 80's council contractors that upgraded our 1950's house from aluminium to copper. I have to leave the building when electricians visit because there's only so much tutting I can tutting and sucking of air through teeth I can tolerate. I think it's fair to say there isn't a lot of wiring in our house that is to regulation, although to be fair the regulations change on a weekly basis anyway.
I think this probably leads to a good idea for a "Here's how to do DIY right" playlist... tell us how not to do things, how to do things properly, and point out where you *definitely* need an electrician, and where you *probably* want one, and where you can do things for yourself if you're comfortable enough to do so
pretty simple really. leave Electrical work too a proffesional who has been too college and served the time needed too become qualified. far easier.
Ironically, almost all of the "hobbyist" wiring is done by electricians.
@@dankdavies good luck booking one in and getting them to actually do the job that you want. Main reason people DIY isn't to save money, it's because actually getting a tradesman in, hard enough, isn't even the end of it. You've then got to convey the job to them and hope you don't end up with something else completely.
@@spinner4148 you're living on another planet mate, what you need to do is use a reputable tradesman. Not once have I had a customer ask me to carry out a job to then supply them with something they didn't require and then go further to not rectify the mishap. What kinda madness are you spouting?
I mean, I managed to fuck up installing a ceiling lamp, so... remember your audience! :D
This is what happens when your house crashes into ScrewFix 🤣
No way, they sell flex at Screwfix and this guy badly needed some!
Love the jokes but appreciate Screwfix a lot. Sometimes they're the only place to have the stock, if not, the cheapest.
@@PatonCavaney I've used homebase a few times and their patress boxes are the cheapest bits of s*** to exist in the electrical accessory world.
Always makes me cringe reading the diyers reviewing the electrical products on Screwfix and using the product review section to "show off" by saying how they did this or that 🔥
Not sure if anyone has said it already but that bus bar that you use on the lower side of the breakers can be modified by breaking of the teeth that line up with the neutral pole. Then use the normal cable entry in the neutral to run a neutral wire to the neutral bus for that RCD. Make sure you insert the bus bar so the teeth are at the back and the angle comes forward to the front of the breaker
19.40
Cory calmly testing his work while it looks like something is on fire behind him.
19:40
I’m hoping there is a tumble dryer running and venting outside.
@@thefakemaker No!Problably roasting a neighbor..
Could of done with the afdds on the sub main by looks of it 😂
Looks a lot better than what bellway left me with.
You should never swat a wasp. An injured (or squashed) wasp releases a powerful pheromone that has the effect of attracting other wasps (from the same hive), which will then instinctively attack any non-wasp that has the hive pheromone on them. And I learned that from Vic Reeves and Bob Mortimer.
I get all my health and safety information from Reeves and Mortimer....lol
Been there done that. Its true and it hurts when you get stung 😢
Texas USA here. Always a jolly seeing how things are done across the pond.
"I don't see how this is worth filming" was my favourite bit.
None of it is worth filming
Always film it, but decide to edit it out. Can't edit to include something when you never filmed it.
Perfect use of AFDDs. Installation with known sketchy wiring, not all of which can be remedied immediately - massively reduces fire risk!
Apart from the fact AFDDs don't actually work and do nothing for any loose connections anywhere in a domestic installation.
It’s always a great film with Cory.
0:56 not supposed to stand on that 🤣🤣
nice vid! i really like seeing tradies clean up after working too, i like how you added that. not all tradies do it, and when a sparkie did stuff where i live there was bits of plasterboard and bits of stripped wires when they left. i create these bits of stripped wires too, but they're MUCH smaller lol i'm into more low voltage stuff.
17:19 - Jordan saving this clip if Cory asks for a pay rise 😂
What is important is that people are trying to do things for themselves and are learning. :)
Definitely a kitchen fitter/wood layer who “knows lectric” and has been trying to pass his short course log book
Wasp queens will nest up and hibernate during winter. Especially in houses with the old insulation batts. They wake up once temperatures get up and around 10 degrees
Is that a retro Casio calculator type watch? Brings back some memories
I love Hager but they need to come out with a single module rcbo/afdd breaker, I think your solution is the best solution, I think I might have put it on a 40A RCBO but still all protected.. They have had a while to come out with one and with other manufacturers coming out with them its unusual for Hager to be behind the game..
Hager do have a single module RCBO not sure at AFDD’s though but at 100 a pop I can’t see much people spec’ing it, their SPD is a two module device which is pretty much the same as all the others as it doesn’t need and MCB connected to it.
@@DTech101 New Regs mean properties that are deemed high risk will have to have socket outlets covered by AFDD's but agree that its unlikely that anyone will choose until the price point comes down, but it was not that long ago you could have said the same about RCBO's... AFDD's need something like 2A in which to trip so with led lighting its unlikely they will ever be required for lighting as that would be pointless.. But sockets and shower and cooker will probably be mandatory in the next edition of the regs as long as prices come down a bit.. Hopefully Hager will have caught up by then and got a single module AFDD
It’s very interesting how different this is done than North America. Here each circuit has its own combination GFCI/AFCI (RCD/AFDD) breaker. The bus bars are built into the breaker box (consumer unit). Things are also broken down into many many more individual lower amp circuits. That whole mess in the attic (loft) would all come to the consumer unit as individual circuits.
Faded print on those thermal printers are usually a sign of weak batteries
By default these use a rechargeable battery so it should be obvious if it's low, and really easy to test, if he has the charger handy it can print while plugged in.
I know its a 2 year old video, but please be careful even with the plugs, i watched a video from another youtuber who was fixing a boiler connection, long story short, the plug he unplugged was WIRED LIVE! from another connection. Always check dodgy DIY stuff.
Is the looping cable for the AFDD underrated. Technically you are using one phase and neutral cable to supply to both AFDD?
I have seen such in an installation done in commercial building! Sockets, plugs and even 4way extensions used everywhere in the loft area LOL
Could be perfectly OK if done properly. 4 way extensions are often made to BS 1363. Extension leads are not automatically wrong. Load considerations, fuse rating, cable type, length and location are important factors.
@@tobysherring1369 in Australia (240V) all 4 way power boards MUST contain a 10A circuit breaker and be rated for 10A. Likewise all mains extension cables must be rated for minimum 10A.
I've heard in the US you can get extension cables that can't handle much current, and nothing stops people using them for full 15A loads, leading to melting, fire risk, etc.
@@iamdave84 I lived in Aus for ten years and that was a good feature. I didn't like the thin plug pins or 40A-fused radials much. Simpler than fused plugs but less localised protection.
Here in UK it's common to see people making extensions with thin flex and not downgrading the fuse in the plug. In a commercial setting you'd hope the PAT would pick it up.
@@tobysherring1369 yeah, I agree, our plugs suck. UK ones are far superior for a stack of reasons. Foot damage is their only downfall, but worth it for the benefits!
Great Attitude to life and work. Stay positive !
More like a career switch from pyro to DIY. That looks more like shape charges at 4:45 and that yellow wire outside must be leading to a detonator somewhere.
It's never another spark that created the mess, always mr diy.
Let's face it you never get an electrician making up figures instead of actually testing.
You say that but theres literally video evidence on youtube of sparks doing questionable things all over the place
19:22 Where is that smoke coming from? :-)
I'm from Belgium and I can tell you that our country is quite behind on safety. First time I saw an AFDD, never heard of it before and Belgium's codebook doesn't mention it as far as I can tell (a quick search doesn't show anything at least).
Pretty much two RCCB's are needed: 300mA before all breakers and an extra 30mA for "wet" rooms (e.g. bathroom)
Not much else for safety.
Now imagine bringing a very old house with crumbly wiring up to code, you don't have to redo the wiring to add earth. Mainly document the wires and where everything is located
Interesting. IEC mentions AFDDs, even in my country - Hungary - we use it, even tho it's not required to install one.
Papa Pringle never let's me down........... hahahaha love it mate :)
Correct about the single module AFDD/RCBO’s. But not many at all have made one yet. Think at the moment only 3 brands are actually on the market. Fusebox, wylex(for well over a year already) and lewden
Don't forget Contactum
@@xeno087 ah didn’t know they were out
Did you grommet strip the CU back entries? Why not put tails in the trunking? Aren't there only 2 cables in there?
It doesn’t need grommet strip on the back either as the entry holes the cables are coming through in the wall are preventing the cable from snagging on thr edge of the board…clearly not that hard to see 🤣
@@heepsy767 do you mean "clearly hard to see" or "not hard to see"? Either way, I didn't see any protection.
3:13 Are those the customer's Pringle? 😂
The smoke at 19:21 made me shit myself 😂
The unmistakable sound of screw cam-out
Is today's sponsor someone who produces junction boxes?!
Should have been! 😂
@@artisanelectrics do u think test date sticker should still be put on boards??
never enter a junction box unless your exit is clear ⚡
@@TONE11111 🤣
Love the retro calculator watch.
Does the Bosch screwdriver have the correct insulation resistance, I know some of the sparky tools are certified up to 1kV so how does that fit with the Bosch? Not criticising just interested as I have the old version of that screwdriver that has metal parts on it so I don’t use it for anything that may be live, the old one is a lot more chunky and has a torque gearbox that locks up when you are manually turning it.
IMHO removing accessory plate screws doesn’t need the 1kv rating. Just as long as the bit and the handle aren’t continuous (in the electrical sense)
Safe Isolation is law. 🤙Unless your job justifies live working, insulated drivers are a marketing gimmick
I am a very handy bodger and I can fix most things myself. But I never mess with electrical or plumbing. They are two things that can destroy your house and destroy you.
I know that feeling, when the day doesn't go as planned and you wish you stayed in bed. Also that mess wasn't so bad, I have seen far worse. Great video. Cheers from Canada
Probably be for the best to wear some PPE when entering an attic with that much glass partials floating around
Could you tell me what company you get those pant from.
You don’t have a regular impact that is in the shape of a drill?you guys do things so differently then we do in the states
Why would you use drums of arctic flex, weatherproof sockets and trailing sockets on a fixed loft installation? Got to be dearer on parts than doing it properly.
Could've had it laying around already, using what you have is always cheaper than buying new.
My experience is that the customer doesn't think anything's wrong, because it's been working for 10 years, and it's an electrician who's done the job, right?
That's what they always tell me 🤣
Had a client before who was trying to say I was just trying to get more work from his rental as he also believed it was perfectly fine as an "electrician" had done the rewire.
I'd usually be professional and just show them the photos and report but instead left him with this:
"But Doctor, I can't possibly have an STD. I've never worn condoms and have always been fine".
Happy to join.
Is the cable entry in the back of the board got Edge strip on? Looks like it doesn't even after terminations have been made.
Nice to see you finally got a electric screwdriver Cory
Hi i know your , channel isn’t a Q&a but ive just acquired a 110v wet and dry vacuum cleaner can i use it in the house ?? Ps love your channel
What is going on outside the window at 19:31 - is someone summoning Jordon?
Odd question - what trousers are you guys wearing?
Btw. If not already noticed, there are special bus bars with neutral and live wire to connect these breakers.
Couldn't see well, but those RCDs should feed separate rolls of breaker right? If they're all on one bus bar then both RCDs have to be tripped? Power comes from two poles main switch then feeds L and N to the RCDs and after that, you treat every RCD as it's own circuit right? All just theory for me still. That's why I'm so curious!
I fitted an outside socket today using a fused spur. I turned off the rcb labelled “living room main” and began and my work. When installing the new wiring I contacted the new cables with the old and it caused the main switch to turn off. Why would this be? Found it kinda weird considering I had turned the rcb off.
Most breakers only switch the live off. The earth wire should always be 0 volts, with very little deviation. But neutral, depending on how long the wire run is, and what other appliances you have, can have stray voltages on it, when you put a meter on it, you may see 4, 5, even 10VAC and not think much of it. But that can easily push 25ma through earth and trip the RCD if they touch.
So most likely, when wiring stuff up, you had let neutral and earth touch, and in that moment +25mA was seen by the RCD and pop. I had the same issues fitting some lights in a garage, that was a long fused spur off a kitchen ring. It ran through an isolator switch which was turned off, but of course it only switched the live. Due to high load in the kitchen at the time there was some a few volts on the neutral when I got the meter on it.
Yep, kal has got it covered but be careful of 'borrowed' neutrals or even lives sitting on ring older ring main circuits, you turn off the rcd but the circuit is tapped into another circuit keeping it live. Switch off and check for voltage... stay safe
@@glennlockey1012 Indeed, In this case, and likely OP's case it's not inherently an issue.
But it does expose one glaring problem for those who are paying attention.
If you were holding a neural conductor on your ring main, it's near 0VAC so safe right... sure. But what if the neural back at the fuse box becomes disconnected somehow. there is no longer a path pulling neutral to 0VAC, and the neutral will rise to 120/240 (wherever you live)
The same can happen if you have a very heavy load somewhere, particularly if the neutral has a bad higher resistance connection. Your heavy load will be filling up the neutral quicker than it can empty through your distribution board, so you get voltage on the neutral, potentially dangerous.
If someone screwed up and were to put a breaker on neutral instead of live... oh boy...
Arctic flex doesn’t have to be 110v, the colour is just the colour. It’s often used with 110v 16A yes, but it’s just yellow Arctic flex
Think it comes from c form sockets where yellow is 110 volt, blue is 230 and red 400. Some extension leads were coloured accordingly.
@@jamesdyas542 exactly, however the cable itself is just cable, and will have its own voltage rating written on it. Arctic flex I’ve seen is usually rated 300/500V, no matter the colour
@@entertainmentbydjt Just out of interest is using yellow for 240v illegal/doesnt meet the regs or just best practice? Or is the wrong to not use yellow for 110v on a site?
@@James-dv1df I’ve seen 110v leads with black rubber cable used, matching the colour of ceeform connector to the colour of cable is convention, and to the best of my knowledge is not regulation. They are just PVC cables, with their own respective voltage ratings, most Arctic flex I’ve seen is 300/500v and can be used for any appropriate task. If you had a household 13a extension lead with yellow cable, you likely wouldn’t question it. On a building site if a 110v lead was made from blue cable, it may be confusing, so likely easiest to match the colours. Though ceeform connectors can only be plugged into the correctly rated sockets due to the keying.
@@entertainmentbydjt Brilliant thanks,
So what did all that stuff in the loft do?
Home automation: Alexa, please burn the house down…
omg , im a electrical tested to destruction madhead, done few diy bits but nout on the DB. this place is absolutely shocking. id be afraid to live there
Can anyone tell me what the name of the wireless socket tester?
12:17 Copper plated some older ones are bronze.
They had the courtesy to label all the dubious wiring at least ;)
are you required to install AFDD's over there?
we only need RCD (aus)
What does an AFDD do that an RCBO doesn't?
Do you have a link for that battery screwdriver. Pls
Google Bosch Go 2 screwdriver. 👍🏼
Link in the description 👍🏻
@@artisanelectrics thanks
8:24 instead of using sub panels, this house uses sockets?
nice nice nice...
Wow, there's a crap ton of special wiring in that place! Thanks for another great video. Cory spoiling his image being shown eating celery! lol
Glad you enjoyed it Jim! To be fair he did balance out the celery with a tonne of Pringles...
Lol the drilled out penny’s done me 😂😭
Are AFDDs now mandatory on new installs?
Only on some installs, like HMOs and student accom.
I have never thought of drilling 1p coins when I have run out of washers, I will have to remeber that one, or just remember to order washers!
Are those thin cables really the norm????
Great work guys
Would have been interesting if you pointed out reason why you cant put your signature to something. For example what's exactly wrong with stuff in attic or at 7:00. I mean if you already put 20 min video on youtube you can should expect that non electricians watch this and want to know.
This doesn't look that different from typical US wiring. Aside from the grounds cut out all over the place it looks like what we have here. Individual circuits running all the way back to the panel, junction boxes all over the place, cables stapled every foot or so. Seen houses where every single outlet in the kitchen has its own run of cable 100 feet or more back to the panel. Also seen others where there are subpanels upon subpanels in different sections of the house so they only had to run one thick cable instead of a bunch of small ones. Pretty common to see a big array of random electrical devices and smaller subpanels expanding out from the main panel in older houses. AFCIs (AFDDs) are required here in some states but it's not clear that they do much. I have drawn an arc between hot and neutral and seen the AFCI do absolutely nothing. Some states have gotten rid of the requirement because they cost $80 a piece or so and most new construction houses have a 42 circuit panel or larger, sometimes even 84 circuit, and there hasn't been any clear benefit to the AFCIs.
Got some sort of Electrical Background! What!! From the school for the Blind!!!
Less than 3mins in and I’d walk away as soon as the customer says ‘I’ll supply the board’ also as you said your not sure how it’s loaded-trust what you know.
Sorry gents couldn’t finish the rest of the video.
The electrics may be iffy, but the roof structure is superbly solid, it’s the same as mine, built 1969 by Wimpy non of that bent metal jointing plates, just big nuts and bolts.
Wot, the burger people??? 🙃
"Arctic flex is for 110v". You do come out with some BS! I agree it's not suitable for the application, but that's not why! And junction boxes are well within regs as long as they're wired properly, accessible, correct rating, no exposed single insulated cable, etc. You seem to think all JBs are automatically a 'fail'. Much bigger problems to deal with here.
I'm no electrician and don't do DIY electrics other than very basics like changing light fittings however watching some of these videos to learn more and if I want to change occupation. I feel like some electricians are too critical on small issues which reduces the impact when there is a real issue.
Still learning but surely you can have as many junction boxes as you like as long as you can access them and they are rated for the load in use and also not using them in the wrong circuit e.g. used to spur off to multiple circuits on 2.5 or something? Surely you cant be too critical for something that meets regulations but is just not best pratice?
@@James-dv1df junction boxes are a specified way to join cable, spur, extend circuits, wire light switches etc in the regs! They have to be properly used, the right one for the situation, etc. However you do it, multiple spurs off one unfused spur from a ring final is wrong - junction boxes are not the only way to do it wrong!
Yes, he does pick up on minor issues that may be fine, but the more 'faults', the more they can quote to put it right.
Other sparks would quote to do a bank of sockets in the attic - clearly marked 'lighting only' and on a 5a fused spur, and have that mess sorted in a couple of hours. The unqualified guy up there is left to do work which is connected to power without inspection.
Corey has incorrectly identified the garden flex as 110v, put main tails by heating pipes, said EICR is only for 'fixed wiring', not used grommet strip on CU, and condemned JBs without any testing or evidence of fault. All wrong. Not Artisan at all - just average but very expensive. You don't always get what you pay for! One of the others caused structural damage to a house because no site visit or plan was completed, and he didn't know what a timber frame is!
Evan I whouldant have done that flex is for temporary power not to be used in install in house
I think his boggle about joint boxes are 1 the more their are the more chance of a dodgy connection 2 someone willing to use these items excessively are more likely to be a diyer or a kitchen fitter than a Electrician 3 it can take days to find locate hidden JBs. Just my opinion folks.
@@chrisardern4594 true - but they're not hidden, and who says what's excessive? Like anything, it needs to be visually inspected and tested. Circuits without any JBs can be full of poor connections inside sockets, switches, CUs etc.
I hate the strict regulations sometimes in my country but at the same time I'm happy they are there to make houses idiot proof before being bought😂 That house right there would lose its insurance with that electric work in my country.
Multi line busbars: LNLNLN are really common on the continent. Never seen them in the UK.
Loved the "leave it safe" comment..... safety #1 no matter what
15.30 - what bag is that on the table?? Been hunting for one of them for my Megger.
Look like camera bag - look up the likes of Lowepro
@@HugoDenbyMann cheers! Exactly what I was after! Seen all the chrap amazon ones but was wary of them
@@RabM1990 Also, Tenba, Thinktank, Peak Design, Manfrotto.
Intruction Manual?! Next thing you know, we'll be watching you stop to ask for directions! You might want to try a vacuum on the wasps... dunno if they can come back out, though! ;-)
It's a slippery slope!
Oh damn, you got Michael Bisping working for you? Neat.
Is that panel made of Plastic ?
I find these videos really interesting, but I'm not an electrician and if I'm honest, I spend most of these types of videos asking myself what's he talking about lol.
Can never seem to justify spending all that money on Hager. They always seem to behind the times and their solutions for DP RCBOs, AFDDs and SPDs are clunky and seem like a massive afterthought.
...and the price! I had to change RCBOs in two DBs from Type AC because they were feeding all the socket cct's in a bunch of "mission-critical" offices that were overladen with switch-mode PSUs dumping enough earth leakage to make half of them fail basic RCD test. The Eaton board cost us £48 per RCBO, the Hager (the bigger board of course) cost £159 per unit.
I’m not an electrician at all, I watch these videos because I find them interesting. Could someone please explain why they have everything plugged in their loft including the fridge what could be the reason for this. Thanks
I'm not an electrician just an observer. Part of the reason is that they've added home automation devices (I could see "LightwaveRF" as one of them in the video) and adding them onto plug sockets avoids the need for the work to be compliant to electrical regulations as it's then not classed as fixed wiring. It also allows them to easily remove it and revert to the previous fixed wiring if they leave the house just by switching the plugs around etc (common on rented houses I would assume). It's a shame that they did so much wrong here, as much of the stuff appears well mounted and labelled, they've just made questionable choices with the type of cable chosen, containment, and some of the connections (lack of earths for example). As the guy said in the video, it appears they've got some sort of electrical experience, but aren't an electrician
If the outside lights are on a socket then they’re classed as an appliance that’s probably why it was done like that
Good vid 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻👏🏻
Thanks Rob!
I'm thinking a Pringle sponsorship is long overdue
Lot of comments about just unplugging the attic extras.
An EICR doesn’t include plugged in items. Yours might. Mine doesn’t. Saying it should doesn’t make it so. Quote me a reg definition?
It’s what PA testing is for. Clearly the offending items would all fail a Pat check 😮
So given he’s been commissioned to do an EICR. He’s unplugged what he doesn’t like and informed the customer. Good for him 😊
However, if he starts cutting plugs off things that he is not entitled to be examining he is liable for their destruction.
It’s not even that bad at first glance. Seemingly class 2 equipment all nicely clipped to provide strain relief… just some poor choices. Not really a rampant fire risk. Ooh the drama!😅
03:10 product placement! So good Cory :)
I think you be wearing Pringles logo on your workwear next 😂
I saw the thumbnail and first few pictures and thought, nah its not that bad... OH BOY WAS I WRONG
Hager has a special bar that goes on the bottom of the breakers
looks like what an actual electricians apprentice did to my house once..........wires everywhere. Had to get a different electrician, to rip it all out and start again..........
5:59 looks like an "earth" wire to me!
Penny washer fashioned out of a 2p was either made of Bronze from 1971 to 1992 then from 1992 to present copper plated steel. Of course the old Penny was the size of the 2p today.
1982 was the cut off date for all alloy 1 and 2p coins. From then on steel blanks were used. This was during the tenure of a certain iron lady, funny that. Archeoligists and metal detectorists of future centuries will not have much luck with these coins. They rot very quickly in the ground.
i’m sure u missed the grommet strip at the rear entry
Thanks Cory. Great Video.
Thanks Eamonn, glad you enjoyed it!
Just advise a full rewire pointless tinkering with that shit 🤣
I feel for you!