ANOTHER DIY BODGE! 🤯 "Why are people like this?!"
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2023
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Why is it that we seem to find dodgy DIY at every job we come across lately? Join John, Luke and Reuben for this eventful fault find adventure where John grabs a big pipe, Luke gets stuck in a small cupboard and Reuben gets defeated by a fridge. Comment below the worst DIY you've ever discovered!
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You ain’t born in 1986. Fraud
6:00 I can tell you right now that is a light dusting for the American market. The US does not require any space for the lighting fixture to House the cabling as the light is supposed to be mounted to the back box in the wall or ceiling. US code requires all electrical junctions to be accessible either behind fixtures receptacles or a blank plate. So lighting manufacturers have never had to leave room for the wires as they're supposed to be in a cavity behind the fixture. I don't know if this is a you should have specialized lighting for the UK market or if the UK should change his code to require no hidden junctions and everything in boxes. Granted there are still some ceiling fans and light fixtures they have left absolutely no thought and there's still be there enough room to get it connected and attached.
I’m a bit more of a fan of these style videos then the newer solar jobs. Idk if it’s because these remind me of all the good ol classic Artisan videos.
ME TO
A lot of people do like solar videos but we have planned quite a few non solar videos in the future that you will like!
@@artisanelectrics Dont listen to these people, keep up with solar videos
@@ArchireuxI agree the solar videos are really interesting if these people don't like it they can go somewhere else
Should give off the same light😂😂😂, a 5ft t8 tube gives off 5200 lm, that little led thing only gives off 840, I'd be asking for my money back if that got fitted in my garage
Agreed. Plus the LED fitting looks like one where you have to replace the whole unit when the bulb dies - horrible.
Where the new garage breaker box is installed- having the double socket directly up against it means there’s a lot of ‘wall-wart’ power supplies that will not be able to fit .. ideally it needs to be a faceplate width lower
Great back to basics on the job video, entertaining and informative. Good presenting skills all round!
The difference between a diy bodge, and a tradie bodge.....is that the tradies are better at hiding it.
Hahahahaha very very true 😅 and a homeowner will own up to it as well
This…. I’ve seen a good few ‘professional’ bodges.
This was most probably an electrician sadly.
Another awesome video chaps! One suggestion is to use double wall glue lined heatshrink tubing. Not expensive and works great as it has a typical 4:1 shrink ratio and the glue seals around the cables. Cheers
it really is interesting to see how different it is done from country to country, here in germany you normaly (todays) go with the cable from the breaker either to an distribution box inside the room on the wall (or better flush with the wall) and distribute from there or and i believe that is more common nowadays to the box in which the first switch of the room sits and distribute from there to the lights, sockets and so on.
I would never have guessed to look at the light outlet for the main cable of the room since here they com straight from the switch even like back in the 50´s it was done this way only thing changed since then are the wire colours.
Ring circuits are the norm in the UK where spurs go to the switches from the fixture.
The standard approach in the UK since at least the 1950s is to distribute power round to each lamp ceiling rose, daisy-chain style, then there is one cable down to the light switch. Up to at least 1965 there was no earth/CPC used in the lighting circuit (not sure when this changed). That's one of the main issues in this house. And also it's been converted from the original central ceiling rose to 4 downlighters, and to lamps which don't have the terminals for a neat job, like the original ceiling rose would have, so you end up with 4 bits of chocolate block (live, neutral, CPC, switched live).
This week i was doing an event and took power for my equipment and both me and my worker got a little electric shock while setting up.
I investigated as to why and realised that the place we got power doesn’t have earth connected.
I then searched for a connection with earth and all was fine.
I love the fault finding DIY bodge jobs, the withheld rage at discovering the trash that has been slapped together haha
Today (7th August 2023) I took down 26 old spotlights and replaced them with nice new LED ones. I managed to get every single one down without damaging or pulling down any bits of the ceiling 😂.
I found multiple CPCs just cut off or not connected at all.
Everything rectified, CPC present to the circuit ends and all lights working and look lovely 👍
Congrats 👏
I bought a house which had been owned by an electrician as the sole previous owner and you wouldn't believe how awful some of the modifications were. The worst was fitting the wrong type/brand of MCB for a new 10kw electric shower - it was physically incompatible with the live busbar and therefore had minimal contact area with it. My plastic consumer unit caught fire and thankfully the smoke alarms did their job.
He probably used "leftovers" from his job to equip his house.
Im sorry if anyone disagrees but the kitchen lights need to be rewired with a CPC to all accesories. My reason is the next owner/tenenat or whoever can put it back to a none class 2 fixtures and fittings and we are back to square 1. i wouldnt even give it as an option to the client.
I agree mate 👍
Class two is a better option than leaving it, you can put stickers by the CU then it’s up to the next owner to get an electrician to change any fittings
You cannot legislate for the unknown future use of an installation.
It’s all about making the install safe for the user, your talking about an ideal world senario, ideally yes I agree, but unfortunately we don’t live in that ideal world
We all come across this JB .it is a bit of a delemer .but at the end of the day it has to be right .and like you said they could be changed to class one at a later date
Great video guys. Brilliant to see a job from all angles.
Thanks a ton!
Skipwood is the finest wood known to man don't you know? :D That reminds me of a bloke who lived a few doors down from us. He couldn't avoid a skip. We drove past a skip a mile or two down the road, saw an old single glazed pot glass bay window in there and we said "**** will be in there later". A few hours later he went off on a bike ride. He came back with the whole thing tied to his back! He was also well known for his dodgy DIY. He took down load bearing internal walls. When he died, the family had to sell the house at a rock bottom price because it was an absolute death trap!
Congratulations for the professionalism and for the good work. I like Hilti as well. Best regards from Romania!
Thank you very much!
"i've had a little cry..." - John...cracked me right up
IS that new board with the new tails Luke is doing okay to have copper showing?
Sensor light in garage should have a control switch installed to allow manual override function over the sensor.
Thanks for the information 👍
I agree
@ 6:23 that's why we use ceiling boxes that has space and we screw the light fixing bracket to the box and plenty of room for cables. Schneider JR08 or KR00 if you can access from above or if only from below then Schneider RJE 06, RKE 06 or ABB AUS15.2
I faced a similar situation in a kitchen in an old Welsh cottage, originally wired in the 60's or 70's.. Fortunately the ceiling wasn't boarded over.
It had to be rewired because the customer wanted class 1 light fittings.
I think you need to do the same, and rewire to the centre distribution point, and the switch line.
Thanks for sharing!
Brilliant video gentlemen really enjoyed watching. I agree, rewire those lights as not up to any sensible standard. You cannot anticipate how others might change fittings in the future. Safety first in this case
Glad you enjoyed it and agreed safety is priority
I adore the Top Gear-esque intro, John! Cheers lads.
John appreciated this comment 😀
Can I ask why the fuses go slanted either over time or from the start. Our box has and noticed this box has them too. Thanks 🙏👍
A temp fix you could take a cpc off the kitchen extractor fan and take it to the joint on the down lights, something you allowed to as the earths are all common in the fuse board, just make a note on the EIC
Any day you have a fit of giggles is a good day.
That must be everyday 😁
‘Roy it in’ seems to be the new buzz phrase at Artisan!
Probably be around for a while now even behind the scenes lol
Yeah, and my guess is that "Roy" is a dodgy electrician and not a DIY'er. ;-)
A quickwire connector can be useful when you're short of cable length, as long as you can get the strippers in.
Think the fuseboard would have benefitted from a piece of trunking horizontal to hide wires coming in from the left and vertical to hide wires coming from above . Only aesthetics but for the sake over a couple of quid it would have looked much better. Nice video , back to the old style. And i thought to run a single earth core would have been cheaper than replacing all the lights and faceplates . Obviously i dont know whats above or joist direction . 👍
This is why I always get a pro electrician in. It's a dark art that I will never understand 😊
11:21 Nice use of a hot air gun on the heat-shrink. Handy hint from America: Carry a few sticks of hot-melt glue and use them with the hot-air gun if you need to glue something (e.g., repairing woodwork). Much easier than a hot-glue gun.
This is why, for years now, on lighting circuits I *never* use a ceiling rose (or a light switch) as a junction box. It's extra work and extra expense, but EVERY user-accessible outlet I install with solely a *single* cable so it is completely unambigious to DIY Dan what he's looking at. Too many "I joined all the reds together, and it went BANG!".
Yeah Roy,s it in 🔥🔥😂
I swear it wasn't me
Good little project!
I think so too!
I wouldn’t assume DIY…plenty of cowboy sparks around.
pretty much DIY electrics with marketing.
The fuse must of fell out to fit the isolator 👀
Nic eic would ask if you can touch the down lighters and something extraneous at the same time, if not then you could leave them it’s basically a health and safety assessment.
Very informative. Love the matt Luke, most of the time I'm not on my knee pads in weird positions, kudos... Why the hell is Rubin throwing gang signs at the end, he'd get owned by playschool kids in a fight lol. Be very careful what you do Rubin
He has got the message 😂
Did someone forget to put the ceiling rose screw cap on before they wired it in?? ( Rueben)😂
😂😂
I'd be very worried about the 50 v on the cpc
G,day from Sydney Australia.
Did you have the supply company "pull the fuse" to the property, for replacement of the DB Distribution board.
* If access to ceiling space run new CPC (earth/ground) to CPC busbar?
🐝💨
Quite a few meters have a built-in isolator. On mine, you need to use a screwdriver to operate it and I don't think it's rated for a live load so throw the isolator on the consumer unit first. However it lets you work on the consumer unit including a swap out without needing to involve the DNO.
Seeing as you opened up the cieling i wld rewire but im in the states.
Rewire it. As there is a risk of Someone putting light fittings which need earth.
I am so glad that modern day electric codes here in the USA don't allow panels (CU) to be put in locations like that. Here you also need permits to do what you guys are doing by switching out the panels, which then everything has to be brought up to modern day standards as well. In that case the panel would have to be located into an accessible location if switched out. The costs can be very expensive because of what might be needed to the older electrical system in the house to bring it up to current codes. Great job guys! 👍🤠
What you have to remember a lot of are British houses are a lot older than your houses so lot of the old houses over here can only have the consumer unit in annoying places new builds have them in the better places just remember this Americans electricity standards are all over the the place
I agree though it's harder for the UK as quite a chunk of houses are easily over 100 years old the house I live in was made in 1905 and we have houses in the UK that have been around longer than the US has
@@SeizureGman About 15% of houses in England and 20% in Wales (don't have a handy figure for Scotland) were built before 1900. Easy for Americans in their glorified sheds to forget.
Hi. SafeStyle eyewear is certified to AS/NZS 1337.1 standard which is an Australian standard. I tried to search the web to see if that translates into I think european EN166 standard but I cannot find anything to prove that the SafeStyle glasses will be certified as safety glasses for use in the UK. I bought a pair but don't know if I will be able to use them. Does anyone have a pair and knows more than me?
I'm curious, whats that orange thing in the new box? (I'm not an electrician, I just like learning)
Can someone explain how those touch voltages are occuring? Where is the voltage coming from?
As much as it's a pain and costly to rewire, if you change the fittings and switchgear to class II, there's nothing stopping the owner from removing and fitting class I stuff later on. If this is DIY, chances are they'd fit the CPC if available. If not, they'd probably leave it without caring too much.
Garage radial socket using a 32a on a 'temporary' basis? The whole point of this remedial work was to remove non-compliances - not add to them. Also doubt very much that the garage light will be any use. The garage door won't set off the PIR, unless the garage door is hot! It's not a microwave sensor.
Clear fault finding, learned a few new phrases. I sympathise with the understairs fusebox change - I know being there is a killer from experience.
Much prefer this sort of thing to the bling solar install!
About that cable trick, would that work with the cable to a pair of headphones that keep getting tangled?
Probably not due to different materials but your more than welcome to try
Way to deal with that is to hold up the end of the cable and dangle the headphone so it spins round. It Will then remove the twist from the cable.
At this stage you have identified that the CPC is missing because it was not previously required. You could use nylon screws etc to avoid the need to update the circuit, but what happens if someone comes along later and replaces the screws with metal ones. This could be anyone, not a bodger and certainly not an electrician but a home owner. Clearly the circuit needs to be brought up to current standards which were introduced to improve safety.
Clamp wagos are not undented to connect copper and aluminium cables, you shoud use wagos from other line (clampless) and the wago aluplus. Aluminium tin cable you connected will oxidize over time and can cause hazard
the number of lights i have been too where diy dave has not understood how to lnk out lights on a modern set up
Do you guys never use the WAGO push in connectors instead of the lever versions? Much smaller and would of been much easier to fit behind that light fitting base
Wago 224-112, made for it
At 21:18. Left hand position, no blank?
18:33 Two flat cables through a single circular cable gland. That enclosure now has no IP rating.
21:13 Could have at least run the cables down below the glands immediately before they rise back up to them. Now any water can track all the way to the gland rather than gather and drip off at a low spot.
Was the garage a rcd board off a rcbo from main board 😥🤣🤣.
Is it acceptable to use a combustible plastic isolator in a cupboard under the stairs which is an escape route? You can use a compact metal isolator with a lid or a fused Bakelite isolator instead which are non-combustible.
The wec isolator is rated as fireproof I believe so doesn't need to be metal.
Where do you stop, should the meter be in a metal enclosure? Can’t cover every little thing
Like a bunch of bloody kids
Does the UK actually allow all those open joints in the attic space? In the US, your terminations must all be in a junction box.
Americans don’t have the right to comment on any other country’s electrics😂
Interesting. As a DiYer, I use Wagos in a Wago junction box with just a 1½mm² flexible cable to the light fitting. I don't use the ceiling rose for anything more than the feed to the light. I've seen far too many registered professional electrician bodge jobs
@@callumroberts6549…okay, just wondering 🙂. This seems like it would not be protected against fire.
I did my UK C&G 30 years ago and I agree, I'm very sure I was taught that any connection must be in an enclosure - which is why I recoil in terror at American "toothpaste cap" joints. :)
Yes the kitchen lights need a rewired but it’s up to the customer .
The only thing you can do is borrow a ground & RCD the circuit .
Note
In the 1960‘s most lighting circuits had no cpc .
Most had some fittings we now call class 1 .
Err clothes iron , battery charger , toaster & radios 😳
Yeah mine is 1962 - no cpcs in the lighting circuits and some nice metal lamps either side of the fireplace fitted at some point. Even I (an expedition potholer with a high risk tolerance) thought that was pretty dodgy. The loft has all been updated but there is still some 60s wiring left in places which really is due for the chop.
A 45 mm holesaw, fresh connections with a trailing cable,, compliant , connected, sorted
Endoscope camera suggestions?
I HATE modern ceiling light fittings.
Our is a pain to fit the wires under.
RCBO feeds RCD in garage .. 😮
😮
I suspect that that 80V is induced, so the current will be tiny.
Still not a nice thing to touch it 😅
@@artisanelectrics You probably wouldn't notice, although you can get a "tingle" from some induced voltages. The real danger is if the line ever touched the metal box of facia plate. Then you would jump...
Was just wondering where the potential comes from….
Can someone elaborate on pls on how the 80 v comes about
@@denmcf89 It's going to be some sort of capacitive coupling. Broadly speaking, any time you have two conductive areas close to one another, then it creates a capacitor. As the electric field changes in one conductor it will induce a change in the other conductor. It's very important in electronics. For example, capacitors are often used to allow alternating currents to pass whilst blocking direct currents (and there are many other uses too).
So what is probably happening here is that the AC voltage in the socket and wiring is inducing a change in the metal front of the socket and the metal backing box. As those are effectively insulated and not connected to ground, then it's possible to measure that voltage. However, it's a very inefficient sort of coupling, so the AC current that appears to leak across will be very low indeed. The reason the meter picks is up is that it will have a very high input impedance meaning that the tiny AC current is enough to allow a voltage to be registered. Most likely you would never feel anything.
The real danger is not from that 80V, as if you touch the front plate, it will essentially disappear as the human body has a much lower resistance than that meter. Where the real problem arises is if there's a fault behind the socket whereby the line conductor touches the back box, then it won't trip the breaker, as there's no route to earth. However, it will make the metal plate, and the fixing screws full live voltage. Then you can get a shock, although if an RCD is fitted it ought to trip and prevent a fatal one, although nothing is guaranteed.
Guessing this was NOT a cheap job, well into the 4 figures, seems like an insane amount of work
Can not say figures but it was definitely hard work for the lads
One of those day's you wish your legs unclipped 😂
The point you make, about 7 mins in, about light fitting design is a great point. I used to fill with dread when I heard the words 'ceiling fan' or 'IKEA'.
Especially all these "modern" ones with no mechanical support, so while you're trying to wire it up the only mechanical support is the electrical fittings themselves! I had a ten-kilo chandelier(sp?) that I had to get my "apprentice" to hold up with two brooms while I wired it up and eventually got the cover on.
"Why are people like this?" Can't speak for more upmarket customers, but as someone in a flat that skirts by on barely being fit for purpose (no hot water for over a month after moving in, 3 separate leaks, an upstairs neighbour whose flat is owned by the same people who had a leak directly into my light fitting, a toilet that wasn't bolted down, on, and on, and on) with a lot of cut corners owned and operated by a private company on behalf of a (formerly) conservative local council:
I can't afford a private sparky,
The company refuses to send their sparkies out unless it's an emergency, and then SENDS PLUMBERS INSTEAD (?!?!?! I had no light in my bedroom for two months after the water-incursion event because they kept not sending anyone out, sending plumbers out instead, eventually I just did it myself so I could *see!*),
The flat is from an old building convert with years of bodged wiring and far too few sockets for a modern living.
So I make do. Shocked myself once, but that's because I was lazy and didn't flip the breaker when I was reassembling a light.
You'd absolutely *hate* the additions I've made - but you'd hate the "officially certified" work just as much. If I could I'd have someone like you and yours come in and do it all right from the ground up but I doubt I even have the legal rights to, even if I could afford it on a fixed income.
It's easy to say a life is worth any cost and to always do things perfectly to code when you're not the one paying. I need stuff done and no one will do it for me, so I do it to the standard of my granddad. He stopped working decades ago and he loved bodging things because most of his time working was in the RAF or in a hospital - where it's more important that you keep things working without being able to turn them off than get it perfect - in the 60s, 70s, 80s, etc when the standards were very different too.
The trader will charge an absorbent fee and claim this is because he is a professional yet frequently will not provide a professional job. Thus the DIY'er has no option but to try and do it themselves. When they see the state of a distribution board done by a 'professional' this provides them with a 'poor' example of a professional job!.
i would just pull through a new twin and earth surly this is cheaper and quicker. seems a bit backwards replacing/down grading all the light fixtures and switch.
Harry Potters closet gets an upgrade. 😀
It's crazy that light fixtures don't require any type of electrical box or octagon in the UK 🤯
And terminal blocks 😭
06:52 --- That wiring there is absolutely horrible
I can only imagine it was a home-brew job ---
Near enough IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH
Don’t really get the hype behind the Fusebox boards. Just the little things like needing an Mcb just for the surge device
Original installation by Stevie Wonder Electrical Services 😂
Nothing like a 'blacktive' conductor to keep you on your toes
Who, or what, is Roy? Is the expression in honour of some or other Oaf? 😂
Secret it is 🫣
I think that’s what wago jbs were made for ?
Let them know its need a rewire and maybe put 1 x temporary class 2 fitting up and not all 8
Hey Reuben! 👋❤
He says hello 👋
Ruban looks like a bloke now and not the young kid he was when he started! Might even sprout hia first facial hair soon lol.. always a hard worker is ruban!
He is such an amazing worker and we are super proud 🥲
He sounds like one now. He sounded posh when he was just a Shetland Rueben. He's using terms like mankey. I bet if he were to spend some time in Scotland, he'd be calling things minging or boggin.
I love watching these videos but I'm still so confused because of the many differences I see with how things are done across the pond in the Netherlands where I live. Metal fuse boxes, ring circuits, extremely high amp breakers (16A is about the max here, main breaker is usually 3x25A) and the huge amount of stuff connected to one breaker to name a few. I mainly love how you guys earth all your stuff from lights to switches to sockets. Here earthing sockets is the only real rule. Rest is up to you and mostly not done (but also everything is plastic instead of metal). On the other hand with our radial wiring most rooms have their own breaker in the main switch with just a few lights or sockets. Anything over 1500 watts has their own line and breaker. Fault finding is so easy that way. Keep up the great work!
Yeah, it is quite lagging in comparison to continental europe
Thank you for the insight, well appreciated 😀
That’s fairly similar to how we do it in the US, we ground pretty much everything, usually use plastic boxes, and 15A or 20A 120v radial circuits are the most common. New homes usually have 200A split-phase 240v (theoretical maximum capacity of 48KW), and heavy appliances such as dryers, stoves, water heaters, central air conditioners, etc have dedicated 240v circuits.
@@Frog-ko6uu as a fellow American, I was surprised to see the ceiling lamps had cables joined by Wago connectors, just jammed up into a hole in the ceiling. and no junction boxes. I guess that might be to code there, but not too familiar with their electrical codes in England/ UK. I need to do some research and add that to my repartee of foreign electrical system knowledge.
@@paulf3353 The only thin they do better than the UK is they wire everything in "Radial" so if there is ever a fault (broken wire) it is easy to detect and fix. A broken wire on a ring only becomes apparent when the ret of the cable melts.
That said unlike the UK there is no dedicated appliance overcurrent protection like the various smaller fuses fitted to our 13A plugs and in many cases no protection against reversal of 2 pin plugs.
A bodge that works and is safe is called a fix.
Why do the breakers always lean?
It’s usually happens when they’re over tightened. I do them up hand tight then clamp them all in place and tighten to torque, keeps them straight everytime.
Watch your grouping factors on those cable tied neutrals in the consumer unit..
Will do !
It must be a DIY thing; you can never have too much tape on connections.
Even when I do DIY electrics I do it to regulations and make sure it's safe but then again I do have a brain unlike most diyers 😂
Why in the last few years do electricians behave like they are brain surgeons. Such arrogance
How is there 84 volts between them if there’s no live touching the metal of the switches?
They wouldn't know
Since I'm from the US, obviously standards are different between the two countries. Is it normal for you guys (I guess with new construction) to put in a ceiling electrical box for hanging electrical objects? Now I think of it, that ceiling is all lath and plaster so putting in a box to help with cable management isn't feasible
My friend dog watching this can he be😂come an electrician lol
hahaha 🤣
Those wago clamps are not for solid core wires.
Not sure which ones you've seen but the ones I buy are solely for solid core cable and explicitly not for stranded cable.
O.k. so all neutrals go together, earth's too, but not to neutrals. lamp's neutral to neutral and hot to neutral of
switched leg, comes back as HOT to lamp's Hot. No idea why they can't have a bigger consumer's panel?
Tell the customer you want to do it right 😂ali walsall west midlands england junction 10 m6 Walsall churckery
Why the chuff did he heatshrink that cable in the garage rather than replace what appears to be a couple of metres of DIY Dave white???
Shoes in a clients home is a no no for me.
Plastic caps are shunned upon