STOP Making These 3 Mistakes When Replacing Light Fittings!
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- Опубликовано: 22 май 2024
- Changing a light at home is a job pretty much all DIYers would happily have a crack at. But more often than not they make some mistakes that could be serious! ❌ So in this video, we break down the process of changing a light at home, showing you all the tools you need for the job and how to do it SAFELY as possible! 👍 But as always, we strongly advise you to contact an electrician first before doing any electrical work at home. 👏
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⏱️Timestamps
00:00 - Introduction
00:35 - The tools you need
01:03 - This can cause issues
02:11 - Checking the fuse box
03:04 - Step two | Disassemble the light
04:23 - Helping you understand the wiring
06:05 - Setting up the new light
07:00 - Sorting the cabling
08:57 - This is when you call the electrician
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This video is for entertainment purposes only please do not attempt to copy or recreate it. Do so at your own risk.
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I didn't like the way you were holding the Wago at the end when it was live knowing that the cable had not inserted correctly. You should have said at this point the light isn't working so we need to isolate the power again and check all the connections rather than pushing it in to the Wago while it was live 😬
great safety advice handling live single insulated wires with your hands and pilars.
I’m a DIYer and as I have changed my lights I change to a quickwire connector so I only have 1 cable poking through the ceiling. The reason for this is to keep the new light fitting in the same location ie center of the room. The way he fitted the new light it would be slightly in a different location. Sometimes it does not matter. Love quickwire products.
Just seen them recently. They look like a good permanent option to me and it would be easy to go back to a ceiling rose with them too if fashions change. I prefer to keep junctions outside the light and just have one wire going in.
Great film Jordan, I did know how to safely complete this task, but always great to have a refresher from a professional.
Much appreciated, thank you. 👍👍👍
You didn't mention why the CPCs can just be put into a WAGO connector like that and how it would be different for a class 1 fitting.
Great Vid Jordan keep them coming
Thanks as always 😎✊
Love the vids
I always snip the copper off the sw live so it’s obvious even if sleeving falls off as it’ll be the only one with a clean cut end
I don't really care how "green" you are as a company but this was a nice video. Brought me back to the basics of electricity and liking this channel. Thumbs up.
Like a few others, I was somewhat aghast at the random finger poking so close to a live contact. Yes, the screw and cable should be recessed and safe(ish), but not good practice, especially on an education video. Always recall dad, a colliery electrician was working on a 33kV switch when his mate poked his 3/8" screwdriver into a cabinet saying that wasn't the live. It was. The driver was vaporised and he received massive burns but amazingly he survived. Several hours downtime on the colliery too. Not a situation many of us are likely to face, but a tale you don't forget in a hurry. Mains voltage still needs respect.
I’m a DIY’r and did all my switches and lights in my house and thoroughly enjoyed doing it, I did a fair bit of reading beforehand. Nice vid, brings back good memories.
Great video and as a DIYer I don’t recommend using a widow maker. It got its name for a reason. Spend a little cash for a better tester. The money you save not using a electrician will offset the cost
oh yes brother , nice video
Anyone else get a bit triggered watching Jordans finger touching the live wires and getting awfully close to exposed parts on the ceiling rose connections?
Great basics for the average DIYer. I'm not an electrician and know enough to get me by. Did you isolate the supply at the end Mr Farley?..... touching live wires with hands etc. Surely a man of your calibre could've connected wires into a push fit Wago without messing it up.... 😂😂
yes, new video
In my area it is almost impossible to get a electrician around to do small jobs like this 😮
Where are you ? These are exactly the jobs I do.
Just get a grandad in to bodge it.....
In my experience its the big jobs which make them run for the horizon or anything outdoors which may mean they need to put on their big coats or risk getting those corporate overalls dirty. Spent three months trying to find an Electrician to fit a CHP (basically a 20kw generator) and fit a consumer unit with lights & sockets into a converted shipping container. Nobody bothered returning calls or when they did turn up, returning the promised quotes. In the end had to pay an Electrician from 160 miles away to do the work. Ever likely people resort to diy.
Never been a huge fan of sleeving , better to use the correct cables in the first place.... Don't know about in the UK, but here in Australia we still use the old 'red/black/green' for fixed wiring (the EU colours are reserved for non fixed cords only) and here there is 'red and white' twin 1.5mm cable available for use with switches (white being a switched active here, blue is the 'secondary' switched active for use on a 'two way switching' circuit for a hall etc). Main reason sleeving is 'frowned upon' here is that if a cable is cut midpoint to make a new connection with a junction box- there is no markings at that cut point to indicate it is anything but a 'normal' circuit- so you could end up with what is assumed to be a neutral (or god forbid if someone sleeved an earth- not allowed but I have found some doing it to a light switch- especially in bathrooms where a fan or 'heat lamp' has been installed) which could be extremely bad (which is why sleeving an earth should never be done- it could be lethal with an earthed metal fitting if that earth line has been used as a 'switched active) 😮 Another difference is it hasn't been allowed here for years (decades really) for 'bare earths'- in any cable like 1.5mm or 2.5mm TPE (twin plus earth) like you were using in that lamp- it is required it is an insulated wire (green with yellow trace), not the bare copper like is stll allowed in the UK... Its funny to see the differences between countries
What about the grommet in the cable inlet hole of the fitting ?
Was that a 14w or 20w light? Thanks for the vid!
14W
Thank you!
what kind of wagos are those ? no flip up connections ? look different to the traditional 221 wago
These are actually the original wagos - the 221s came later. These are simple push fit no lever.
I'd say if someone does fancy some DIY electrics, at least get a class 3 clamp meter, they don't cost a lot, about £30. You can then do a continuity test from say a screw on the light switch at the end of the run to a screw on a socket, if you have continuity you haven't broken the earth. Do check it's class 3 before going anywhere near the mains though.
I ENJOY YOUR VIDEOS.
The volt stick has one advantage over the voltage tester because you don't need to know which 2 terminals to put it on. In fact you don't actually have to put it right on the terminal at all as it works close to wires as well
They seem good but for you to have carried out correct safe isolation procedure you have to test all combinations of Line, Neutral and Earth and use a proving unit or known live source before and after checking. Obviously the average DIYer doesn't really care, just switch off the whole DB and check.
@@Paul-ym4mz Used properly they are safe. A voltage tester used improperly is unsafe
If I followed your advice I would not rely on a voltage tester
Poor poor show 😩
Where is your voltage proving unit ?
If you only have 3 wires coming out (live, neutral and earth) but a double-insulated light, is the earth continuation elsewhere such that leaving the earth terminated in a block is ok?
Yes. It should loop in and out of the ceiling rose like the line and neutral does. Even if class 2 (double insulated), it is good practice to maintain a ‘dead end’ sleeved cpc (earth) to the fitting. That way, the cable maintains cpc protection and it helps with testing to clamp on to the cpc while probing on L and N.
@@MikeSmith-tx2lp Thanks Mike. Line and neutral don't loop in and out either that I can see (or presumably do, just in the ceiling that I can't see), just 1 wire for each going into a junction box that the old light fitting is wired into but the double insulated new light only has line and neutral so assume I'd just leave cpc in the junction box not connected to the light? 1930s house.
@@ArryBradbury yes, that would be ok.
I know all the DIYers love this but this it's going against all the effort the NICEIC are doing trying to get people to stop touching electrics, to keep people safe by getting an electrician to do it. Also, by the time someone has bought all those pieces of equipment, not including an MFT, they could have paid for a professional to do it and they would have had the piece of mind knowing it was done properly without putting themselves in danger.
7:00 I would have used a rubber grommet in this metal hole, much like on a metal back box...?
Why would there be a live wire at the room light connector?
The permanent live should be in the light switch and only send power to the switched light when switched on- that's how I would wire it.
Good job. I'll miss you next Monday. ❤❤
Carefull there - you mention theres a permanent live at the socket ....not everywhere does this .....NZ / Australia has the permanent live at the switch
It's frequently the case here in the UK also. That's one of reasons I'm not keen on encouraging DIY electrics. There are so many different ways to wire a house and it still works. Just think of 2 or 3 way switching. ☢ But I see plenty of proper electricians who don't fully appreciate all the possible dangers. And at times, I even have to include myself in that complacent category. Ouch!
@@geraldelwood9660 At the switch is exactly where I would expect the permanent live.
But obviously, good practice is to check all wires after turning power off at the fuse.
i always put a bit of tape over the circuit breaker im working on and also there are still places with the old wiring in them and some with mixed wiring of both sets of colours
Best not to do that if being assessed 😉
Next week we explain the offside rule
Hi. How electricity reduce?
Are you back home Jordan?
Think he did say he recorded a load of simple basic video,s like this before he left
Not yet! Soon tho! Back mid January. Filming a fault find with a subscriber in Vietnam tomorrow! Stay tuned 😁
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Now try doing that with a light fitting from Pooky You'll end up putting the fucker through a window!
22 ROBBED AN ENGINEER WHO REPORTED CORRUPTION.
Sounds dangerous that there is permanent live there. I have not seen anything like thag in Finland.
vargo? its wago
They're German, 'vargo' is technically the correct pronunciation.....although the same could be said for 'VolksVargon' :D
And they’re German, so they say W as we say V
why doesn't he UK use black wire as switching wire. like other European countries?
That’s stupid
Because they dont! Which european country are you from!?
@@leechatt9709 the Netherlands at the very least, dunno about other countries though
@@leechatt9709 if I saw a black switched line I’d think it was an old cable
As a DIYer I do find it strange to change a wires colours by sleeving it. Surely you’re changing it from its original intention. You should have a cable manufactured for this very purpose.
ENJOY ASIA.
What happened to. Your staff
Sorry but there is no excuse for using a blue cable as a line conductor when for decades there has always the ability to buy and install a twin brown+ cpc therefore no need to sleeve a blue cable but electricians are lazy and cant be bothered to order twin brown cable
It’s standard practise to be honest I don’t think I have ever seen a new build where they used twin brown 😂
@@artisanelectrics First time I've seen the older version of this (twin red + CPC) in my mothers house that was built in 2002. Otherwise have never seen the dual line T&E cable used in any house.
Industry practice David, and fully understood by all qualified elrctricians ... and a reason in itself why a diyer with no basic electrical knowledge shouldn't take on this job.
I'd say a sleeved blue cable is easier to identify as the switched live than a second brown sleeved conductor
So long as its identified perfectly acceptable and common place. Plus when you are changing an existing light fitting not much you can do about whats in the wall already....
Should not be encouraging people to mess around with lighting circuits.
I think it is great he is showing how to do this as nearly everyone has a go at this type of job. My only concern is he recommends a widow maker
Good luck identifying the switch wire when you got old and new colours mixed together , would go messing around with your gas supply.
@@Spark55278No, because the level of danger is far greater if you get it wrong. If you have a consumer unit that’s fitted after 2000 and it’s working properly, it’s very unlikely that any error on a lighting circuit would cause an injury. The RCDs and MCBs would clear the fault.
@@MikeSmith-tx2lp What if you cause the fault and get a belt ( meaning you get a electric shock. )
@@Spark55278 like I said, if the protective devices in a modern consumer unit are operating correctly, you won’t get a serious electric shock or cause a fire if you introduced a fault.
IVE WATCHED THAT VIDEO WITH THE OLD COUPLE AND THE FAULT FINDING AS I COULD NOT GET IT OUT OF MY HEAD. I DONT KNOW HOW YOU CAN WALK AWAY. SOMETIMES PEOPLE HAVE TO BE PROTECTED FROM THEMSELVES. COULD WE NOT START A FUND RAISER AND ASK YOUR SPONSORS ETC AND OTHER RUclipsRS. REMEMBER THAT TV PROGRAMME DIY SOS. COME ON JORDON I KNOW YOUR A GOOD PERSON. I’m happy to donate £100.
That person’s house was their responsibility. He sent them a letter to formalise the problems he raised. A rewire would be a HUGE job, probably costing 10s of thousands. I doubt he has the time and patience for such a job even if it was paid for.
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