Product links, timestamps and relevant videos linked in the description. Thanks for watching, let me know any questions in the comments and like and subscribe if you enjoyed the video:)
Ron, thank you so much for the kind words sir - much appreciated:) Let me know if you have any questions, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have an awesome day 💪👍
@@dbvares8745 You're very welcome! I just bought this camera and was looking for some low light pointers and came across your video. Solid info + intellectual humor... can't go wrong with that! Just subbed 😀
I think ‘intellectual humour’ is among the nicest bits of feedback I’ve received:) It’s inherently subjective so I get plenty of ‘cut out the jokes’ which I think would make everything lot more generic 😂 Anyway welcome on board, and have a kick ass day 👏💪
I've just bought a ZV-1 and did a search for RUclips help vids. Yours came up. I have to say these are the best tutorial videos on any camera I have watched. Technically superb, well explained at a perfect pace (I find I don't have to keep rewinding to pick up the points that were made) and the dry humor is very refreshing. (Personally I would not juggle a chainsaw but then that's just me I guess :)). One point I'd make is it that it's scandalous that you don't have 100,000s of subscribers such is the quality of the uploads! Keep doing what your doing and you undoubtedly get there. I'm gong to be using the ZV-1 on some upcoming productions so I'm looking forward to your other videos to help me get the best out of the camera. Thanks again!
Really appreciate the super nice comment FLF - definitely feels a grind doing this at times but nice people like you seem to pop up and given me a boost at the right times:) Massive thanks and have a great weekend!
Would u be recommending zv1 or zve10 to start a high quality RUclips channel indoor + outdoor . (Low light + bright light ) mostly low light cuz I’ll be shooting inside my studio
Good video! very thorough! I see the video is from 2 years ago! Do you know if there is a better vloging camera from 2023 at a similatrr price with Sony AV1?
Oh my god! This video is extremely helpful to a beginner like me! 😊 I purchased SONY ZV-1m2 not long ago and went through so many videos to learn about it and your video is the best.
Great! Just bought this, and like it a lot so far! Would love to have some tips on set settings for recording whole concerts (while I'm on stage myself lol).
Very detailed, well-explained, and very entertaining info in this vid. Not sure why you only have 3.6k subscribers, but keep doing what you're doing and you that number will be long forgotten soon.
Thanks so much CR, really appreciate you taking the time to share such nice feedback:) As for subs: gotta keep putting in the work and hope for the best , right?:) Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 👍
Thanks Neil, really appreciate you watching and the super nice comment:) Glad the humour is finding and audience too haha - these can be set and tech heavy topics so I figure a few lame jokes can make it more engaging. That’s the idea at least 😆 Consider subscribing if you like this sort of content, happy new year to you too and have an awesome day 💪
you read my mind. I've been trying to shoot at night with my ZV1 and while it's way better than my G7X mark ii, it was still looking too grainy for my liking. Great tips! The amount of effort you put into your videos is apparent👌 the bookmarks/time stamps are super useful to go back to when working with the camera in real time.
Hey Stoney, awesome to hear from you again and the kind words go a long way so huge thanks 🙏 I’d say persevere with the ZV1 because low light has a much bigger learning curve (soooo much testing went into this one 😆) but once you get the vibe the results can be great:) and glad the bookmarks help, any feedback on stuff that is or would be useful is always welcome:) On a lighter note: my favourite thing about getting more adept with low light? It’s easier to vlog after work since it’s dark at 4pm in the uk right now 😆 Hope you had a great Christmas bro 👍
Wow. Very informative. What a difference with the picture profile. It shows that the Sony ZV-1 can perform a lot better than the standard profile. This convinced me to get it. 👌👍
I think I just found my answers to a question I posted just a little while ago on another of your video's! I'll experiment with the HLG PP's. Huge thanks for these comparisons, they have given me a great idea of what to look for and what to experiment with for my interior lowlight needs.
Hey Alex, you’re right that I’m definitely a fan of HLG:) However the concepts here apply to all the picture profiles; you’ll find differences in how much you like the colours ungraded and how easy you find the grading process so I’d encourage you to experiment and find what works best for your taste:) You may have spotted already but if you’re looking mainly at indoor setups this vid on studio settings may be helpful: ruclips.net/video/FjmUIo5Gf-c/видео.html Drop me a line with other Qs if any come up as you’re learning, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great weekend 👍
@@dbvares8745 Thanks so much for the replies, I'll be sure to check out your studio settings video, I just spent the afternoon looking at portable LED panel and wand type lighting that can be carried and used easily, so may well be able to control my light in the places I will be exploring. I've already subscribed to your channel, I suspect you to be a bit of a sleeper about to explode! Be well and stay safe.
i JUST GOT THIS CAMERA AND THE RODE GO, i cannot ad lights , tripods, etc..into our treatment rooms (medical channel) using our existing flouresecent light what would be best iso setting, aperture, and frames per sec etc.. for that situation? its a small room poor lighting. thanks for you channel , keep up the great work.
Hey Synergy, thanks for watching:) If you’re not getting any flicker from your fluorescent lights at 1/50 shutter I’d recommend using that, otherwise try some shutter settings in that region until to eliminate or minimise flicker. It sounds like you might not have much light so I’d definitely stick at f1.8 aperture. Ideally I’d recommend keeping iso at 3200 or lower if you can, but you could push up to maybe 5000 or so if you really need to for exposure then try to reduce noise by pulling down shadows and mids in post production. I also wonder (assuming it’s medically ok) if mounting a small light on your camera might help with the light situation. Im a big fan of this cheap but useful one from Ulanzi which might help: ruclips.net/video/tIFUPxvCtUY/видео.html Hope that helps and let me know any other questions:) Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great weekend 👍
No problem Jam, glad it was helpful:) I really like the ZV1, super powerful and compact at a competitive price! Thanks for watching and consider subscribing if you like this sort of content-lots more ZV1 stuff on the channel- plus have a great day 👍
Hey DHRUBA, thanks for the kind words and good question:) I actually made a detailed comparison between ZV1 and A6400 here: ruclips.net/video/D-PPIus5-DI/видео.html Hopefully that will answer most of your questions, but just drop a comment with anything else you’d like to know after:) Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 💪
Another fantastic tutorial with excellent advice. Have'nt had the chance to do any low light shooting yet but will refer to this to help me. Thanks. A video on all the colour profiles would be great.
Thanks Martin, love hearing from you and as ever you are too kind!:) I’d definitely say it’s worth doing some low light work-bigger learning curve but rewarding and I love the look of the results:) I’ve added the colour profiles to my list too:) probably won’t be the next one or two as it’ll involve a decent amount of testing but I’ll get it started ASAP 👍 Thanks for all your support this year and hope you had a great Christmas 😁
Thank YOU for watching and sharing the nice feedback Adbulla - very much appreciated:) Consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have a great day!
Thanks you Mr Duval, really glad it helped and really appreciate the nice comment:) And just like last time you commented I have a sudden urge to watch the Terminator 😆 hope you had a great Christmas 👍
Thank YOU Christian for taking the time to watch and share such a nice comment:) Consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have a great weekend:)
Thanks AB:) great to hear from you again and very happy to help:) Yeah I learned about flicker the hard way when it ruined some shots I did a few months back so I vowed to research the issue and now I have my revenge 😆 Hope you had a great Christmas and are doing well 👍
@@dbvares8745 Thank You Actually I live in India and we have 50 Hz I tried today. It was better than Automatic but it was there a little bit :(. However, the light source was multiple One was natural from the window and another was a 7 Watt Led Bulb... but anyway... your trick did the job :) I will share if I will find a method to vanish it or may be it was because of multiple sources :). Yes I am doing fine. Hope you also have a great time... Thank you for remembering ...
Yeah multiple sources can make things a bit more tricky. There also seem to be some lights which flicker at a different speed even though they are powered from the mains. I have Phillips hue smart lights and at 1/50 there is less flicker than other levels but I can’t eliminate completely, which suggests they flicker at a non standard speed (super annoying 😆). So I just keep the offending lights out of my footage. 2 potential thoughts: try looking at one artificial light at a time to see if there is a shutter setting which gets rid of flicker and if there are any lights where no setting works see if you can remove or substitute for another light. If your budget or gear allow then a continuous LED based light can be a great investment. I have a ring light for my main studio source and then a portable one the size of an iPhone which changes colour. Both are continuous so no flicker at any shutter and super helpful! Greetings for the UK too:) I was fortunate to go to my friends wedding in Chandigarh a couple of years ago plus a few other places and loved it:) 👍
@@dbvares8745 Thank you for sharing this. I do have a ring light I will use that as well.. Actually, I also travel and make travel vlogs at another channel. named as backpackerankit... But I am a beginner in traveling Hope someday I will visit UK as well. If you had any plans to visit Uttarakhand in India Let me know dear.. Actually I also host people from Couchsurfing :) I hope you know about Couchsurfing... Anyway thanks again for this informative response :) It will help me a lot in my videos.... I will try and let you know...
That sounds good:) I’m familiar with couch surfing and have heard good things! Definitely hope to return to India one day and same goes if you make it to the uk at some point 💪👍
It's definitely one of my favourites Guillaume, for the price and size I really like the ZV-1! Thanks for watching, consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have a great weekend:)
great video! I'm looking for a relatively inexpensive camera that can film b-roll type footage late at night outside nightclub venues etc. Would you recommend this camera for that kind of work? I'm not particularly worried about autofocus in the dark
Filming yourself is fine with the zv1, but if you need depth of field, it's tough cos you gotta turn down the f-stops, and therefore exposure. It's still not too bad, you just gotta crank your iso a fair bit if you want depth of field.
Hey JBT, good to hear from you again and fully agree:) While higher iso isn’t ideal for noise I’ve found dragging down mods and shadows can help quite a bit when grading so that might help to get the best of both worlds too:) Thanks for the insightful stuff and have an awesome weekend 👍
Thanks Steve, I’ve just sent an essay of a response to your other comment 😆 Appreciate you checking this one out too and hope you’re having an awesome day 💪
Another great video. Would appreciate a video on picture profiles. Would like to find the best PP without needing to grade for 1) good light 2) Low light/indoors scenarios. Top quality videos. You can see the effort you put into them. Thank you!
Thanks JT, great to hear from you again and hugely appreciate the positive vibes:) It’s also a good suggestion. I usually shooting in HLG as (once I’ve mapped to standard colour space) I really like the colours ungraded. But I really like the structure you’ve suggested. Leave it with me and consider it on the to do list:)
Hey JT, it’s slightly more involved-basically HLG captures more colour info than other profiles because it supports high dynamic range or HDR (you’ve likely seen advertised on TVs or game consoles if you aren’t familiar already). So if you want to use it on a standard dynamic range timeline (which almost all content is still delivered in) there’s a minor extra step to map from HDR to SDR when editing. This vid is a quick overview and my approach: ruclips.net/video/88lUbO7hOA4/видео.html Hope that helps and that you’re having a kickass day 👍
first up this video is excellent, I have just got a zv 1 (my first ever camera) and am still playing around with it / learning how to use it and so I continue to watch videos like this one which really do help. One question I do have (which could be silly), is there a way to continuously shoot slow motion? atm, the slow-mo seems to only shoot for a handful of seconds.
Chris massive thanks for watching and the nice feedback:) And not a silly Q at all! There are 2 types of slowmo on the ZV1 it sounds like you’ve been using the ultra slowmo which is limited to a few seconds recording and it’s called HFR (high frame rate) mode. I’ve got a bunch of tips for that one here in case useful: ruclips.net/video/nwklmfVPaoo/видео.html For continuous slowmo you can record in 120 or 100fps. Head to menu 2, tab 1 of the zv1 and set the file format to XAVC HD and recording setting to 120 or 100p. The number after (60m or 100m) is telling you how high quality and how much space the files will take-I always recommend choosing the highest. Once you’ve recorded you’ll need to slow your files down in your editing software-unlike HFR mode the ZV1 won’t do this for you. So if you record in 120fps and your project is 24fps you can slow down to 20% speed (24=20% of 120) when you edit. My other tip here is for quick access - I have shortcuts and custom menus for this stuff which makes shooting easier - part of this vid will explain how to do that in case you’re not familiar: ruclips.net/video/9zwIur02jHo/видео.html Lastly, I do have a new slow mo guide planned in the next few weeks so if you’re interested or find this content helpful consider subscribing to catch that stuff:) Sorry for the super long answer but hopefully will help:) Let me know any other Qs and good luck shooting some epic slow mo 💪👍
@@dbvares8745 Hey, massive thank you for the reply. Since I have only recently got the camera (and it is all new to me) I have spent endless hours watching RUclips vids, including urs. This latest vid I stumbled upon was in relation to settings I should be using for low light settings, I want to try to and learn how to do long exposure aswell as just shooting some good looking cinematic footage at night, I'm not sure if you have done any videos particularly on these yet or not. Anyways, I enjoyed Ur vid so much that I thought I would hit you up about the slow Mo, which you have answered perfectly so I thank you for that. I will be checking out those links U posted (as every bit of info is awesome at this point) and I can't wait for Ur future vids!!!!
Amazing, thanks Chris and welcome on board:) I’m very similar to a lot of what you described 😆 The ZV1 was my first proper camera about 7 months back and I fell in love with shooting and learning how to do things better:) Very fun and a positive to focus on compared to the pandemic restrictions here in the uk! As far as low light I think this vid should cover most things you need to know but very happy to pick up any extra Qs. Managing light flicker and noise while getting enough light or high enough iso for decent exposure is the key balancing act in low light. If you shoot 1/50 shutter at 24 or 25fps you’ll get the ‘cinematic’ type of motion and then the content is all about your preferred style:) Long exposure is a good shout though. I’ve been trying to do shorter vids based on people’s questions and that is a perfect one for a little 3 minute quick tip or similar. Stay tuned for that and have an awesome day:)
I am currently using two cameras A7III and Sony A7RII, however my sony A7RII is a bit old now and it doesn’t perform well with autofocus, low light as well as the compatibility of my canon lenses. I was thinking to get ZV1 to replace my Sony A7RII and it will be used as a B cam as i have been using A7III as my main camera. Let me know if it’s a good choice or not. Thanks
Hello SIr. Great tutorials. I just got my ZV1 and tried some night video. Generally i was pleased with it, but i was getting very blownout results on items such as streetlight and shop signs . Any tips?
Hey RR, congrats on the purchase and have fun shooting some awesome stuff 💪 Massive thanks for the kind words too:) I’d definitely do a second channel focussed on more dumb humour if/when I can find the time 😆 Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a kick ass weekend 💪
Great tips there and I particularly liked the slo mo results. I've only been shooting in default mode with my ZV-1 as I haven't experimented with any of the picture profiles. I no longer do editing on my pc as prefer using an android tablet these days with Kinemaster as it's so much faster. However, I don't know how good the app is for colour grading, there are plenty of options though. Are you familiar with the app? There seems to be a real lack of decent video editing apps for Android and Kinemaster seems the best, in fact it's the only one that will let you export in PAL format!
Thanks Mark, great to hear from you again and very much appreciate the feedback:) I’ve heard of Kinemaster and known a couple of friends get decent results but that’s about the extent of my knowledge unfortunately. However as you say there are likely a lot of options across the android universe - one of the great aspects of a healthy app ecosystem- so I’m sure there’s going to be something good within there. I think for low light just being able to try and balance iso noise vs exposure when you first capture along with avoiding light flicker is the trickiest part, if you can manage that then the grading can be quite simple to adjust exposure to take things a bit darker and moodier etc. That’s how I try to think of it anyway:) Let me know how you get on and sorry I can’t be more helpful on this particular one! The great/bad thing about Apple is everything interconnects so well so every time I see a cool android product I’m like ‘but I’d lose this element of workflow’ 😆 Have an awesome day mate 👍
Would you recommend this to use in a dash cam setup? I have spent hours deciding between a Sony A6400 and Fujifilm X-T30, but this camera looks pretty good in low-light settings. Does this do something in particular that would be more efficient for recording driving? Thanks for the video!
@@truthseeker6804 i have xt 30 and consider to buy zv-1 for its compact and internal stabilization.. but afraid with big difference of the sensor.. but actually zv1 not bad for lowlight video.. any thoughts?
@@budi_s27 low light is good with zv1, if anything you can add slight denoise. if you want great low light get full frame. zv1 compact nature is cool. but its not super wide angle and cannot zoom very far also.
Thanks. I enjoy the video a lot, both because the information is useful and also funny to watch. I have this problem on using Sony ZV1 when shooting indoor with HLG3, resulting lots of noise even in ISO1000. I am still wondering why. Is it because of the HLG setting? Or just shifting to use HLG1? I found that your video still with low noise level using much higher ISO than me.
Hey Wai, thanks for watching and for the great question and nice feedback:) I think one key thing is that I usually film in HLG but then map the footage into standard dynamic range when I edit (rather than HDR like HLG is capable of). I also find that mapping into Rec.2020 gives me loads of range to push exposure and colours around when I grade which is helpful. I normally do this by changing the colour space in Final Cut (called colour space override) to Rec.2020. This reduces the brightness of the HLG footage on a standard dynamic range timeline and also massively reduces noise. Then even if I boost exposure a lot to add brightness when I colour correct the noise seems to be largely gone. I haven’t tried editing in a HDR timeline for a while since very few people have HDR devices so can’t comment on that with as much knowledge. As for the other tips I can offer: definitely I found HLG1 was a bit less noisy than 3 so that’s worth trying for sure. I also found more noise if the camera is ‘straining’. What I mean is that if there is good light (like a street light) on your subject then you will get much less noise at the same ISO than if there’s very little light in the frame at all. I need to test this more fully but o got pretty consistent results where more light got me less noise at the same ISO. Hope that helps and feel free to ask if you have any other Qs. Thanks again for watching, consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have an awesome day 💪👍
@@dbvares8745 Thanks for your details and I am really appreciated. My understanding is there are three methods to improve: 1) find light source even when using high ISO; 2) using HLG1; 3)change the "color space override" setting to REC.2020. Do I understand correctly? I will try this later to see how it works. Sony ZV1 is my first camera and first time to use Final Cut Pro to do editing, it is an overwhelming but enjoyable learning process. And your channel definitely help when focusing ZV1 techniques and sure, I have subscribing watching this video.
No problem at all, happy to help and welcome on board:) That’s a very good summary 👍 If you’re in final cut I’d start with colour space override (it’s in the ‘info’ section of the clip inspector) as that is probably the single thing that I think helps most. But then as you say the other 2 can assist as well. Let me know how you get on! The video I have planned for next week is a quick guide to how I work with HLG and grade it in final cut so hopefully that will be helpful to follow along if you haven’t mastered thing in the meantime:) 💪
Thanks Li:) appreciate the comment and the kind words! For bokeh my top tips are make sure your aperture is as open as possible, so set at f1.8 for the ZV1. Also the more distance behind your subject to the background the more bokeh you will get so try having the background as far as back as you can. I live alone so haven’t had a chance to practice many portraits in current conditions 😆 But leave that idea with me and I’ll see what I can do. Hope that helps and let me know if you have any other questions:) Thanks for watching and consider subscribing if you like this sort of content 👍😁
I am new to shooting videos. I have a zv1 and was shooting fantastic video using some settings from a tutorial and cine 2. However it looked terrible in low light. Is the best idea to increase my exposure in low light settings? I wish I had some examples to show u but that specific vlog I’m referring to isn’t up yet.
Hey Dan, it sounds like the exposure could be the trick. My approach using HLG (which shouldn’t be too different to Cine) was to find the iso where I got enough exposure info, even if there was noise, that when I colour graded and pulled down the shadows it would look good. That pulling down the shadows (and some of the mids) when grading was key for me. It will make most of the noise invisible and it’s much easier to do thing that way than expose for low noise in camera then try to boost brightness if things are hard to see - I found that emphasised noise 😆 I hope that makes sense and is somewhat helpful - let me know how you get on:) Also, thanks for watching, consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have a great day 💪👍
@@dbvares8745 Will do. I watched a video or two more on the subject. Seems the best and most common thing to do is to not color grade footage shot at night. Which means having the best possible settings on the camera while filming in low light and then not touching it in post.
Hey Ms Lakwatsera, if you press the up button on the zv1 control wheel when in video mode you will cycle through different displays of information. A couple of these will show the shutter number at the bottom of the screen. It’s always written as a fraction like 1/50. One of my videos covers how to use the manual controls and change that display info, it might be helpful:) ruclips.net/video/9zwIur02jHo/видео.html Ots in the second half of that one. Thanks for watching, let me know if you any other questions and consider subscribing if you like this sort of content:) 👍
I like your video, bc it turn out exact quality that i got in lowlight. NOT like some channel talk good about this camera in lowlight. 1 in sensor cant perform well in lowlight even at f 1.8 guys . people are over hyped this zv .
Hey Thai, thanks for watching and the insightful comment. I agree - sensor size is a physical limit that is just unavoidable. The zv1 will destroy most smartphones in low light, but a similar aperture lens on a crop body will best the zv1 easily, full frame even more etc. I think you can get some nice results on the zv1 especially with a bit of noise and colour management but it definitely requires more learning and work. What are you normally shooting with for lower light? Anyway thanks for sharing the cool thoughts and consider subscribing if you like this sort of content 💪👍
@@dbvares8745 thanks for rep. i normallly shoot with m50 22mm f2 .. its not the widest len but for b roll and vlog, it can handle good. that f2 perform really good with some noise at 1600 iso , but depend on the content that you create. i dont have youtube channel but i make video for my passion. i got my m50 kit len and 22mm f2 for less than a new zv 1.. of course all used :)...
Nice, that’s a good setup! I looked close at the M50 but the portability and some of the extra autofocus and slow mo options on the ZV1 swing the decision for me. Both great options. What’s the crop on the M50 like 1.5x so the 22 is around a 35 or so? I’m looking at stuff around that focal length for my A6400 and an f2 or below would be nice depending on the options for e mount. Also awesome to hear about making vids for passion. I’ve always liked creating stuff but only did little bit in video until about 7 months back-started this channel to have something positive to focus on rather than all the pandemic lockdown stuff 😆 Take care and have a great day bro
@@dbvares8745 canon 1.6x crop zv 1 2.7x .. i choose canon for budget lol.. sony lenses are crazy expensive! but i do like both brand.. good luck on new channel
Yeah you’re right: very fun but it’s expensive fun to work with cameras, lenses and vids haha 😆 Thank you and good luck with your shooting too:) Take care and have a great weekend 💪
Hey Justin, I just picked up your other comment on this, but in case anyone has the same Q and spots the one here: the in studio is the Sony A6400 with the Sigma 16mm f1.4. Settings in the studio are always manual since it’s a much easier to control environment: ISO - always the lowest possible to minimise noise; I use HLG3 so always leave at the lowest ISO of 250 and control exposure with my lighting Shutter - always 1/50 at 24fps frame rate to get that natural looking ‘cinematic’ motion blur people are used to Aperture: always lowest possible to maximise the nice bokeh and separate meetings from my blurry background. With this setup that means f1.4, when I use my ZV1 as the studio cam it’s the lowest in that which is f1.8. Hope that helps and let me know if you have any other Qs. Thanks for watching and have an awesome day:) 💪
Thanks SM, that’s a great tip I didn’t think to include here. Definitely a good shout! Thanks for watching and the insightful comment, consider subbing if you like this sort of content 👍
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏hello. how are you? please help me as i am desperate. So i bought a monitor on amazon because i wanted to see my self on a bigger screen wile using my sony ZV1. I also bought a micro hdmi cable but, the monitor has a Mini HDMI sistem and c type usb sistem. now i dont know what to do and what to buy to use my sony zv1 to my monitor that has a mini hdmi and usb c type. Plese help me i dont know what to do and have a lot of video to record. I am subscribed to your channel.
Hey Christina I remember you and nice to hear from you:) Equally it’s sucks you’re having technical issues and hopefully I can help. It sounds like the initial connection is the problem, right? I had a quick look on Amazon and it looks like a micro hdmi to mini hdmi cable or various hdmi connection adapters (eg adapters from full HDMI to mini hdmi) are available for £5-10. I think starting by trying a cheap cable or adapter to try and fix things is likely the best start. Let me know if I haven’t understood the question correctly or if I have hopefully that will help:) Thanks and have a nice day 👍
@@dbvares8745 wow you remembered me? Impressive considering you deal with a lot of people. Thanks for your fast reply. I mean I have a micro hdmi cable and a mini hdm cable. The mini didn’t fit the Sony zv1 but fit the monitor. The micro hdmi fit the Sony but not the monitor. I might buy (god help me now because I am kind of pissed off) and adapter and see if it works. So annoying. Thanks a lot 🙏❤️ and have a good day
No worries and I hope it works:) These kind of things are super annoying so I feel for you 😆 I love tech but some of the stupid different connections and weird inconsistencies can drive me crazy! Fingers crossed it works and if the monitor is new you could always consider returning it and getting one with connections that will work more easily as a backup plan. And same to you, have a lovely day:)
Hey Christina sorry for the delayed reply - YT had your comment held for review for some reason so I only just spotted it - have you managed to get things working as you would like? Hope you're well and having a nice weekend:)
Hi Dave, super video. Really well explained. I'm an auto kind of guy haha. Mt tip for you is to ask from the like and sub much sooner into the video, if you do this you will grow much faster. A lot of folks will have dropped off before they hear this call to action. Hope you had a great Christmas
Hey PL, really great hear from you as ever and thanks for the tip! Usually aim for the half way point depending on script and flow but I’ll look one third or something and see how that goes, great observation! Auto on the zv1 is great in so many situations but I’m that total nerd who wants to understand and use everything 😆 And thanks, hope you had a wonderful Christmas too:)
@@dbvares8745 give you a laugh, I struggled with the camera for the first couple of weeks even on auto hahaha! I can't recall numbers and have always struggled, getting out of auto is a struggle. I had never heard of the lights in the UK flickering at a certain rate. If you carry on making videos as good as this you will grow.
I wouldn’t worry man, we all have our strengths-mine sure as hell is not anything green fingered 😆 But that’s what makes the world fun and interesting. I really appreciate the support too. My loose goal a few weeks back was 100 subs by end of this year and I’ve been really pleased how that’s picked up beyond expectations. I’ve only really had more strategy and consistency the last couple of months having started in July but am enjoying the process and the little insights you offer are a massive help, so thank you 😊
@@dbvares8745 It took me a year or so to hit 1k, I hit it on Christmas day last year (of all the days to hit it haha). I like targets to aim at, I thought I could hit 3k by the end of this year 2020. I thought if I worked hard at it I might even hit 4k. Never did I dream I would be over 19k! RUclips gives you loads of information in the analytics and once you start to understand what they all mean it can really help you grow your channel. Your channel and a few others like Vic Barry and Pottermade help me get the most out of my camera as at the best of time I don't have a clue on the best ways to use it.
That’s amazing, fantastic result and testament to both hard work and quality content. Brilliant stuff man 💪👍 Inspirational too, it’s always good to have insight from people further ahead on the journey but not the huge well known folk who seem mikes away. Truly I really appreciate that, it made me smile:) I don’t know what your target is for 2021 but I’m hoping you’re well on the way to 50k or more:) Very pleased to be in the same company you mentioned too, I know of both channels and really like the Pottermade guy in particular (blonde guys stick together 😆). Look forward to more tips, Qs and progress updates in the future my friend:)
Hi there, would like to ask you some questions, i just got the ZV-1 about a month ago. the past few days i tried to shoot a talking head with it in an indoor room, at night, with some constant lighting. at first i set the iso to auto with max 3200, the footage out of it was very grainy. then i tried to set it to manual iso of 800, it still quite grainy. Picture profile i used was cine 2. Kindly advise on what seems to be my probem, I have a feeling it's the PP that i used. your thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks before mate!
Hey Ferry sorry for the slow reply - didn’t get a notification for this comment so only just seeing as I pick up stuff I haven’t replied to! So 2 main things I do for lower light: I like to film in HLG as it has solid dynamic range (picture profile 10) but doesn’t force a high iso like s-log. Second is post production: I always pull down mids and shadows a bit where possible and that will substantially reduce visible noise. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have an awesome day 👍
By the way do you know how to set focus by touching the screen but keep it FIXED during a shoot? I can only use touch for focus auto-tracking (which may change the focal distance if the object moves), or set it manually with the dial (which is difficult to verify with the small screen, as you pointed out).
Hey Juninell, I’m away from my fear right now but from memory I think there are settings you can change to tweak the touch focus behaviour. Not sure there is a touch and then fixed setting but there may be. A workaround is to touch to set focus then immediately toggle to manual focus to lock it. There’s a bunch of tips on focus settings here: ruclips.net/video/PDKC0k28TJA/видео.html and tips of setting custom button shortcuts here: ruclips.net/video/_Sn6f-W0UrU/видео.html in case helpful. Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have an awesome day 👍
Question, how does a zv1 not record 4k60 but an iphone 8 can? And for youtube, would there be a major difference between 1080 and 4k? Because i notice many use 1080
Hey Mig, thanks for watching and the interesting comment. Many dedicated cameras, even more expensive ones can’t do 4k60 (or 1080p240 slowmo) like current iPhones or other smartphones. The biggest reason as I understand it is processing power-cameras have processors which are good at capturing photo and video plus a few other basic tasks; smartphones are powerful mini computers which can often beat a cheaper laptop. iPhone especially have very powerful processors which give them an advantage in recording higher resolution and frame rate against all but the highest end dedicated cameras (like Sony A7S3, Cannon R5 etc). If you definitely need 4k60 then a smartphone is likely you best value option. However even the best smartphones lose out in a lot of aspects of image quality to a dedicated smartphone. You might find my comparison of ZV1 and iPhone 12 handy for an overview of the main differences: Just managed to get this vid done, attempted a few new tricks to up production value so I'd be grateful for thoughts if you fancy a look, plus the usual like/comment helps if you're inclined. Thank you:) ruclips.net/video/lZ3msRPd11g/видео.html As for 4K v 1080p; I’d say it depends on your type of channel and how you like to create personally. If you’re doing a talking head thing about say politics or fashion then you might not be worried about video quality as much as a tech/video creation channel like mine so that’s one factor. I definitely notice a difference when creating and much prefer the sharpness of 4k but it’s personal preference and definitely not essential. You can also film 4k and edit a 1080p output which will give sharper and more detailed results than working in all 1080p. And if frame rate is most important to you (maybe you have a sports or gaming channel) then 1080p is likely a better option. So while you don’t need 4k for YT I do think it has advantages and will become more and more the standard in the next few years as technology advances, but right now 1080p is great depending on your preference and usage. Sorry for the long answer but hope it’s helpful:) thanks for watching and please consider subscribing if you like this sort of stuff 👍
No worries, I’m happy to help and I’m a real nerd for this stuff 😆:) Do let me know if you have any other questions! And good luck with your creative journey:) I only got into cameras and video creation about 6 months ago to try and make positive use of all my time in pandemic lockdown 😆 Thankfully this channel and nice people like yourself have helped me find positives in 2020 👍
Help: I bought the ZV-1 (not the best cam for low light conditions I know), but I am wondering which exposure should you try to aim when filming parties in nightclubs or weddings? In daylight we always try to aim 0.0 exposure. But does this count for shooting a nightclub as well? I mean, in a nightclub its dark, our eyes in the nightclub see less then outside because of the darkness and flickering lights? If you want to capture that, I guess you dont need to hit that avarage 0.0 exposure? For example, when theres a frame where there is no strobo or big light lightend up, the "dark" moments, what exposure should you aim there? Or is it the other way around? When there's a frame with the strobe is lit, do you need to hit the 0.0 exposure then or is it ok to go over the 0.0? Beginner question :) I feel the breaking point of my Sony ZV-1 in low light is ISO 200 / 400. The exposure I get from that is -1.7 within a frame that the strobo is not active.
Hey DM, so the short answer to this; yes it’s ok to go over 0.0, some picture profiles with more dynamic range like HLG or slog often work best if a bit overexposed and then with shadows or highlights pulled down as needed in post production. The real answer is that you need to assess you footage and experiment to find what works best in this conditions. As a general rule it’s easier to overexpose a little and pull things down in post than to underexpose and try to boost shadows. Try looking into the zebra feature of the Zv1 which helps the camera highlight when things in frame are over exposed enough to start losing information and then see how you do exposing just below that level. For iso I’d say you’ll get decent results up to 1600 in most situations and potentially higher depending on specifics. Again if you have any image noise issues but you also have enough exposure then pulling down shadows and mid tones will often make noise largely disappear - this is often what I do with low light. The main thing is to keep experimenting with your specific situation but hopefully those are some thoughts that can help you get results you want faster:) Let me know how you get on! Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 👏💪
Haha 😂 I aspire to be in the same league as Kasey one day but there’s a way to go yet 😂 Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 👏
Hey WBP, it's a good point - s-log should have similar dynamic range to HLG - I've just gotten used to HLG as I'm a fan of the colour with relatively little grading, but both should do a solid job. Thanks for watching and the insightful comments, consider subscribing if you like this kind of content and have a great day:)
Hi mate, you really gave away good information here. I have a favor to ask, I have been strugling to color grade those HLG2 footage from my ZV 1 in Davinci Resolve 16, there are very rare videos on how to color grade HLG2 footage compared to SLog2 or 3. Could you give me some tips on how I color grade HLG footage? Highly appreciate your help.
Hey Hugo, many thanks for watching and for the great question:) Is it the grade you’re having trouble with or getting HLG to work in the first place? What I mean when I say getting it to work is if you use HLG in a Rec.709 project you can get results that look really blown out and over exposed. I can offer some thoughts on how I deal with in Final cut and it looks like similar options exist for Resolve from a quick bit of research. If the footage looks ok then you’re likely either working in a HDR project already or mapping into a Rec.709 or other SDR colour space, and then it’s about how to grade just to make the footage look nicer. Let me know which you’re dealing with (footage looks overexposed or footage looks ok and it’s about grading to enhance) and I’ll try to help as best as I can:) I’ve got a video planned on my approach on final cut so this is well timed 😆
@@dbvares8745 thanks for replying 😊, I have hard time for setting my PP 10 (hlg2) in my ZV 1 such as whats is the black gamma value and so on. And also, having hard time to figure out what will be the adequate work flow to color correct HLG2 footage in Resolve. Sometimes I get very harsh yellowish color in my highlight eventhough I have set my gain right in my primary wheels. Maybe I missed something?
That’s helpful extra context, thanks. So I’m not an expert on picture profiles or colour correction, but here are my exact settings, what I do and a couple of other thoughts that might help: So in PP10 most settings are default for me: black level 0; gamma: I switch between HLG1/2/3 depending on whether I want max noise reduction or Max dynamic range - I don’t change anything else when I switch them though; black gamma: never changed so range still set as middle and level is greyed out; knee is set to manual but I’ve never adjusted it; colour mode: bt.2020; saturation 0; colour phase 0; colour depth all 0; detail -7 In the edit I use final cut with HLG as my input and standard dynamic range output (since very few people will be able to watch in HDR for a while!). I do this by using Rec.2020 as a colour space override in final cut on each clip. This tames the highlights but keeps the nice colours of HLG which I like. You can get similar results mapping into Rec.709 or using a LUT designed for HLG depending what look you like. I think the equivalent in Resolve is colour space input and output so I’m guessing input would be 2020HLG (or similar, I forget the exact name hahah) and you can set output the same way I use colour space override in FCP (set to Rec.2020 to emulate my approach). I’ve got limited experience of Resolve so sorry I can’t be more certain! As for yellow or other tints, try the colour space stuff first (I use Rec.2020 because it doesn’t seem to cause a tint whereas I did get some yellow vibes using Rec.709). After that I think the setting to experiment with in the ZV1 is colour phase - I know some chat has gone on about yellow tint in A7S3 footage and I’ve heard tweaking colour phase as a solution. When I have a tech issue like this I try to find a scene where I can replicate the problem and just sit there filming and saying as I adjust the setting I’m playing with, then hopefully in the edit you can find the level that gives the best results. Sorry for the massive essay but hopefully some part is helpful-let me know! And thanks again for watching and the interesting question, if you like this sort of stuff consider subscribing and have an great day 😊💪
Hello, I bought this yesterday. Please Help me set this up. And what editor do you use for editing this, i even bought laptop but i don't know how to use it yet😭
Hey LPM, what element of setting up are you having trouble with? It’s easier if we can narrow down to specific Qs. As for editing, I’m a Mac user and edit in Final Cut. If you’re just getting started and have a Mac then iMovie is a great option. If you have windows I’m not as familiar with entry level packages but DaVinci resolve is a great high level option that’s available for free. Hope that helps and have fun getting up the learning curve:) 😁
@@dbvares8745 hi, I don't think that DaVinci is free, maybe you mean about free trial. That's my problem because a lot of editing apps are free trial only. imovie definitely my first choice but not free at all, as of the moment I'm practicing video editor provided by microsoft
Many questions have now been resolved and one of the remaining questions I would like to ask you. What I've come to realize is that manual settings open up a lot more possibilities when filming, but are only possible in more or less static environments. When I'm filming in an environment like a forest, with dark conifers and bright clearings, the conditions change every few meters and it's practically impossible to keep the exposure usable. The automatic mode can iron this out, but unfortunately, of course, the exposure is constantly adjusted, which is unattractive. Am I missing something or is there a trick for such situations?
Once again a really thoughtful and interesting Q:) So I don’t think there’s a perfect solution here but this is what I try to do in these situations of changing lighting: Try to find a best fit of manual settings for the overall area; I like the classic 24fps, 1/50 shutter so I’m normally controlling exposure with ND, ISO or my own lights (if that’s practical/makes sense for the scene) and I normally like to keep iso no more than 6400, ideally no more than 3200 where possible. The aim of the best fit is to capture enough info in the footage to then colour grade enough light and shade to properly represent the detail/aesthetic afterwards. It’s not perfect but I find I get more flexible and pleasing results that the sometimes weird changes auto can bring. I also recommend the picture profiles aimed at preserving maximum dynamic range for this reason - you can usually overexpose to a reasonable degree and retain data you can restore by grading down the highlights later. HLG (pp10) is my preferred choice as I like the colours but I think the S-Log profiles (pp7-9) probably capture very similar maybe even more range. My basic approach on HLG is here in case you’re using final cut: ruclips.net/video/_oAFyPZYUFA/видео.html I’m still learning the best balance and how overexposed you can go before permanently losing info; how consistent the ZV1 meter and different zebra settings are to help gauge that etc so there’s definitely a bit of experimentation involved still Not an elegant answer I’m afraid but maybe a strategy that can help on some situations. Let me know what you think and if you find any of this works for your shooting situations. As always take care and great hearing from you 😊👍👍
@@dbvares8745 I am very happy about your detailed answers, thank you! Elegant answers do not have to be at all. As I said, I think we ignorant people all enjoy your detailed answers until your channel explodes and you only give interviews to BBC if at all or meet with Boris Johnson, Sir Elton John or Adele for shooting.🤩 The color grading thing in post-production is still a bit away from me and I have to try it at a later date. But of course I see that everything is connected and you should also work on it for qualitatively beautiful pictures. Unfortunately I just don't have enough time for everything but it is very exciting and I will be able to free up time for it little by little. I have also experimented a bit with the image profiles. HLG2 seems to be very well balanced for later post-processing. But as I said, I don't know enough about that yet. I'm happy if I can now just make a usable film with some nice shots with this camera. I wish you a nice and relaxing Sunday!
Always love chatting 4Lakes and this is no exception. You definitely have more confidence about the channel exploding than I do but you never know 😆 I’ve been learning the colour grading stuff in parallel and while I’m a long way from an expert it is a very useful tool once you know a modest amount - based on your detail and quality focus on the camera side I think you’ll quite enjoy once you get the time for it:) Sunday has been a combo of weekend working on the day job and getting some bits of footage for planned videos, so not perfect but not too bad - hope yours has been good too:) 👍
Hey Eric, great question! I can confirm no. Lose reduction was used anywhere in post. I did use colour grading to pull down exposure in places as that can really help hide visible noise, but that’s the only post work I did around noise. Hope that helps:) Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 👏
Hey Coffey, the answer is yes: press right on the control wheel when ready to shoot and the iso level will come up. If you scroll to the very lowest you’ll see ‘auto’ as an option. Here you can set a minimum and maximum iso level and the camera will automatically more between them depending on the brightness of the scene you’re shooting. Hope that helps and let me know if you have any other Qs. Thanks for watching, consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have a great weekend 💪👍
Hey BFA, when you set is to auto you can set the minimum and max iso, so you stop max iso going above your chosen level. So you can lock it in that sense. If you want to avoid any change in exposure from iso automatically changing then the solution there is just to set it manually at whatever level best fits the overall conditions across the duration of your shot. Hope that helps and wishing you a chilled day 👍
When you scroll through ISO options you should find an auto iso option between the lowest and highest setting. You can then set the lower and higher level you want iso to vary automatically between. Hope that helps and have a great day 👍
Hey Marek, unfortunately some noise is inevitable-in low light and with higher and higher ISO all digital cameras get that grainy noise in the image, so our main goal is to try and reduce that as much as possible. First thing I’d suggest is using HLG1 rather than any of the other HLG options; when you are selecting picture profile press right to get more options and then choose HLG1 in the gamma options. This has the least noise of all the choices Next, I record in HDR but then map into SDR colour space of rec.709 as that is what most people will be able to view videos in. To do that I map the footage into Rec.2020 colour space using colour space override in final cut which darkens things and maps into standard dynamic range,”. Doing this also reduces the visibility of noise. If you’d like more detail on this let me know as I’m thinking to cover in my planned colour grading video. Another thing to do is try to get as much light as possible into the camera when you film-being closer to a light or bringing your own light when you shoot. I noticed in my testing that the same iso produces noticeably less noise when it’s even a little brighter at the point of filming. 2 more ideas: first when I colour grade low light footage I like to increase overall exposure then pull the shadows down until the darkest part of the image is just about pure black and then often reduce the mids on higher iso shots to get a moody look I like. This grading darkens and adds contrast to the image which seems to help reduce visibility of noise. Last but not least you can also apply noise reduction. I use the built in one in final cut, you will likely have one in your editing software of choice too, plus there will be lots of third party noise reduction plugins available. I haven’t tested any third party plugins for years but I’m confident there will be some quite effective ones on the market:) Sorry for the super long response but hopefully that helps a bit:) let me know if you have other Qs, thanks for watching and please consider subscribing if this sort of stuff is useful 👍😁
Hey Jubinell, B roll is basically when you cut away from the main video ( like the talking head part for a YT video or a character speaking I’m a movie) to some secondary but related footage - like shots of a product for YT or similar. Hope that helps:)
thanks for the awful humour! a pity about the face haha.. nah just jokes, great content man, this Zv1 is a little beast ey, I just picked up one the other day and just love it. Its a great little bcam for my A7siii! I did a side boy side comparison in good light the other day in HLG3 on both and man you'd be surprised how well the Zv1 holds up in dynamic range and picture quality
😆 Happy to help ZP, maybe if I make it to 10k subs one day I can get both a face and sense of humour transplant in a deal 🤞;) That’s really interesting though. I was super impressed with the zv1 vs my a6400 and intend to compare to my A7c too soon but the a7s3 would be my dream camera right now so I’m definitely envious:) Will be keeping my zv1 as the ultimate portable B camera regardless though 😊 How do you find the a7s3 stabilisation? I understand it has digital active steadyshot like the zv1 but you can control the crop more in camera - is that right? As ever, thanks for watching and the great comment:)
@@dbvares8745 the crop in 4K active stabe is about the same from memory, there is no option to control the crop, not sure where you heard that. I would say the zv1 has slightly better stabe but I don't actually own any lens with stabe. One of these days I will start a RUclips channel similar to yours as ive been thinking about it for ages but am stuck in the procrastinatrix. A stupid kinda pointless video I have planned is A7siii vs Zv1. Have a thumbnail with me holding both cameras in each hand and put on that facial expression like someone just rammed something up my arse - you know the ones I mean right? na just jokes I can't stand those totally unoriginal thumbnails - ad nauseam
Ah that made me laugh 😆 You are preaching to the converted my friend! If there’s one thing that I find irritating it’s those exact thumbnails. I’m sure they perform well which is why they’ve become so popular but talk about lowest common denominator and insulting to the intelligence of your audience. ‘Omg that guy looks so surprised he must have something amazing to say’. Presumably there are people who think that before clicking. Your anal trauma explanation would at least point to a genuinely uncommon video topic in fairness 😆
Hey TM, good question. In terms of quality and features I’d say it’s a solid option. The thing to watch out for is battery life: you get 60-75mins if 4K shooting per battery in my experience, you can get spare batteries inexpensively and keep an eye on when to swap them out or you can use the USB port to charge externally so I think the battery life can be managed with some awareness and planning. You won’t get as many view options as an interchangeable lens camera, but the built in 24-70 gives a solid range of views and the ZV-1 is considerably better priced than most interchangeable lens camera and additional lenses. So that’s the long answer with some thoughts: the short answer is yes, you could shoot a wedding on the zv1. Hope thet helps:) Let me know if you have any questions, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 💪
In this case, very unfortunate I can not better English (speak and listen). It is just enough for half and that is definitely too little to understand these things.🙄 Greetings from Switzerland🇨🇭
Hey 4Lakes and thank you for your comment. If writing is easier please ask any questions in the comments. You speak way better English than I speak French or German, but I can use Google translate to try and help:) Anyway thank you for watching, if you like the content consider subscribing and have a great day (or Bon journée or Ausgezeichnecht tag if I remember a bit if french and German 😆) 👍
@@dbvares8745 Thank you for the offer with the questions. It would probably be a bit much questions😅 but I already have one or two that would help me. I will look at it tonight and let you know. Matts
Amazing! Thank you and welcome on board:) And yeah, I’m the same, love learning how to get the most out of my gear and got a bunch of similar content planned 👍 I’m running with just the ZV1 and A6400 right now waiting to see what full frame range looks like during next year - how about you?
@@dbvares8745 I also own a 6400, 6600, a7ii, AX100, AX33, ...on and on..lol I just got into this hobby a couple years ago and it’s a blast! I mainly use my a7ii for photos, some light video work, b-roll mainly. I would love to have the a7iii, but the cost of the full frame lenses are what keeps me from that camera. I only own one lens for my a7ii right now, the 50mm f1.8, and it produces beautiful photos, but really sucks for video work. I’m going to stick with APSC for now, cause I’m only a couple lenses away from having everything I need. Now I just have to figure out how to get my footage uploaded to RUclips without it looking like garbage.... Over 60 videos in and m still scratching my head.. I think it has to do with the bit rate I’m uploading in. Still learning...
Man I love the mentality: still learning is exactly how I try to approach stuff and I think it keeps your mind open and the process fun 💪 I’m envious of your collection 😆 I got into videography and stuff back in July to try and have a positive focus amid all the pandemic restrictions and started the YT to share stuff as I got the hang of it-it’s a fun and rewarding thing even if it’s a bunch of work at times 😆 RE your footage, you may well be being harsh on yourself, we are often our toughest critics:) If there’s a legit technical issue it may be a bit rate thing. In case helpful to reference: I use 4K, HLG on my Sony’s, edit in final cut, map into standard rec.709 colour range using rec.2020 colour space over ride then colour grade and sharpen a bit. I’ve been pleased with my results (at least for my current skill level haha) using that workflow and 8bit h264 encoding. It’s one of those areas where there’s so many variables it’s often a process of elimination to work out what might be upsetting things 👍
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Product links, timestamps and relevant videos linked in the description. Thanks for watching, let me know any questions in the comments and like and subscribe if you enjoyed the video:)
This has easily been the most entertaining informative camera review ever! Lol 👍🏾
Ron, thank you so much for the kind words sir - much appreciated:) Let me know if you have any questions, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have an awesome day 💪👍
@@dbvares8745 You're very welcome! I just bought this camera and was looking for some low light pointers and came across your video. Solid info + intellectual humor... can't go wrong with that! Just subbed 😀
I think ‘intellectual humour’ is among the nicest bits of feedback I’ve received:) It’s inherently subjective so I get plenty of ‘cut out the jokes’ which I think would make everything lot more generic 😂 Anyway welcome on board, and have a kick ass day 👏💪
I've just bought a ZV-1 and did a search for RUclips help vids. Yours came up. I have to say these are the best tutorial videos on any camera I have watched. Technically superb, well explained at a perfect pace (I find I don't have to keep rewinding to pick up the points that were made) and the dry humor is very refreshing. (Personally I would not juggle a chainsaw but then that's just me I guess :)). One point I'd make is it that it's scandalous that you don't have 100,000s of subscribers such is the quality of the uploads! Keep doing what your doing and you undoubtedly get there. I'm gong to be using the ZV-1 on some upcoming productions so I'm looking forward to your other videos to help me get the best out of the camera. Thanks again!
Really appreciate the super nice comment FLF - definitely feels a grind doing this at times but nice people like you seem to pop up and given me a boost at the right times:) Massive thanks and have a great weekend!
Would u be recommending zv1 or zve10 to start a high quality RUclips channel indoor + outdoor . (Low light + bright light ) mostly low light cuz I’ll be shooting inside my studio
This is the best video about ZV-1 regarding Low light. Thanks for the vid
Good video! very thorough! I see the video is from 2 years ago! Do you know if there is a better vloging camera from 2023 at a similatrr price with Sony AV1?
Thanks a lot man! This video just increased my video quality instantly!
Thank you for all this. Super informative. I was looking for a good in-depth rundown on the ZV1 performance in low light. This hits all the marks.
Thanks Adam, really happy it was helpful and appreciate the kind feedback:) Consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great weekend!
Excellent information, especially with the light flicker. Have a blessed day😎✌️
Amazing video!
Thanks SM, appreciate the kind words:) Consider subbing if you enjoyed and have an awesome weekend!
Oh my god! This video is extremely helpful to a beginner like me! 😊 I purchased SONY ZV-1m2 not long ago and went through so many videos to learn about it and your video is the best.
Great! Just bought this, and like it a lot so far! Would love to have some tips on set settings for recording whole concerts (while I'm on stage myself lol).
Very detailed, well-explained, and very entertaining info in this vid. Not sure why you only have 3.6k subscribers, but keep doing what you're doing and you that number will be long forgotten soon.
Thanks so much CR, really appreciate you taking the time to share such nice feedback:) As for subs: gotta keep putting in the work and hope for the best , right?:)
Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 👍
These keep getting better and better Merry Christmas David
Thanks Femi, always appreciate hearing your thoughts and feedback bro, merry Christmas to you and family too 💪👍😁
Brilliant video and love your humour !! ISO ;) happy new year and look forward to more content from you, Cheers
Thanks Neil, really appreciate you watching and the super nice comment:) Glad the humour is finding and audience too haha - these can be set and tech heavy topics so I figure a few lame jokes can make it more engaging. That’s the idea at least 😆
Consider subscribing if you like this sort of content, happy new year to you too and have an awesome day 💪
you read my mind. I've been trying to shoot at night with my ZV1 and while it's way better than my G7X mark ii, it was still looking too grainy for my liking. Great tips! The amount of effort you put into your videos is apparent👌 the bookmarks/time stamps are super useful to go back to when working with the camera in real time.
Hey Stoney, awesome to hear from you again and the kind words go a long way so huge thanks 🙏 I’d say persevere with the ZV1 because low light has a much bigger learning curve (soooo much testing went into this one 😆) but once you get the vibe the results can be great:) and glad the bookmarks help, any feedback on stuff that is or would be useful is always welcome:)
On a lighter note: my favourite thing about getting more adept with low light? It’s easier to vlog after work since it’s dark at 4pm in the uk right now 😆 Hope you had a great Christmas bro 👍
Wow. Very informative. What a difference with the picture profile. It shows that the Sony ZV-1 can perform a lot better than the standard profile. This convinced me to get it. 👌👍
I like your humor, learned a lot. Thank you!
Great video! Thank you pal.
You’re very welcome Kamk:)
Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 👍
I think I just found my answers to a question I posted just a little while ago on another of your video's! I'll experiment with the HLG PP's. Huge thanks for these comparisons, they have given me a great idea of what to look for and what to experiment with for my interior lowlight needs.
Hey Alex, you’re right that I’m definitely a fan of HLG:) However the concepts here apply to all the picture profiles; you’ll find differences in how much you like the colours ungraded and how easy you find the grading process so I’d encourage you to experiment and find what works best for your taste:)
You may have spotted already but if you’re looking mainly at indoor setups this vid on studio settings may be helpful: ruclips.net/video/FjmUIo5Gf-c/видео.html
Drop me a line with other Qs if any come up as you’re learning, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great weekend 👍
@@dbvares8745 Thanks so much for the replies, I'll be sure to check out your studio settings video, I just spent the afternoon looking at portable LED panel and wand type lighting that can be carried and used easily, so may well be able to control my light in the places I will be exploring.
I've already subscribed to your channel, I suspect you to be a bit of a sleeper about to explode!
Be well and stay safe.
i JUST GOT THIS CAMERA AND THE RODE GO, i cannot ad lights , tripods, etc..into our treatment rooms (medical channel) using our existing flouresecent light what would be best iso setting, aperture, and frames per sec etc.. for that situation? its a small room poor lighting. thanks for you channel , keep up the great work.
Hey Synergy, thanks for watching:) If you’re not getting any flicker from your fluorescent lights at 1/50 shutter I’d recommend using that, otherwise try some shutter settings in that region until to eliminate or minimise flicker. It sounds like you might not have much light so I’d definitely stick at f1.8 aperture.
Ideally I’d recommend keeping iso at 3200 or lower if you can, but you could push up to maybe 5000 or so if you really need to for exposure then try to reduce noise by pulling down shadows and mids in post production.
I also wonder (assuming it’s medically ok) if mounting a small light on your camera might help with the light situation. Im a big fan of this cheap but useful one from Ulanzi which might help: ruclips.net/video/tIFUPxvCtUY/видео.html
Hope that helps and let me know any other questions:) Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great weekend 👍
@@dbvares8745 thanks
Thanks for this in depth video! Im planning to buy one 😊
No problem Jam, glad it was helpful:) I really like the ZV1, super powerful and compact at a competitive price! Thanks for watching and consider subscribing if you like this sort of content-lots more ZV1 stuff on the channel- plus have a great day 👍
AMAZING
Plz suggest is it worth buying
Or sony 6400 because i want to know sony kits lens are worth buying or not?
Hey DHRUBA, thanks for the kind words and good question:) I actually made a detailed comparison between ZV1 and A6400 here: ruclips.net/video/D-PPIus5-DI/видео.html
Hopefully that will answer most of your questions, but just drop a comment with anything else you’d like to know after:)
Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 💪
Fantastic work. Thank you so much.
Great videos tips as always, thank you for sharing this!
Thanks RR, glad to help and appreciate the awesome feedback:) thanks and hope you had a great Christmas 👍
Super helpful Dave!
Thanks Emsziee, alway happy to help and really appreciate the nice feedback:)
Thanks a lot for all your videos !
No problem Royd, thank YOU for watching and for the nice comment:) Consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have a great day 💪👍
Another fantastic tutorial with excellent advice. Have'nt had the chance to do any low light shooting yet but will refer to this to help me. Thanks. A video on all the colour profiles would be great.
Thanks Martin, love hearing from you and as ever you are too kind!:) I’d definitely say it’s worth doing some low light work-bigger learning curve but rewarding and I love the look of the results:) I’ve added the colour profiles to my list too:) probably won’t be the next one or two as it’ll involve a decent amount of testing but I’ll get it started ASAP 👍 Thanks for all your support this year and hope you had a great Christmas 😁
@@dbvares8745 Have a great Christmas & a happy new year.All the best mate.
Great video bro very helpful thanks
Thanks for the great details.
Thank YOU for watching and sharing the nice feedback Adbulla - very much appreciated:) Consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have a great day!
Brilliant video 👌 Thanks for sharing !
Thanks you Mr Duval, really glad it helped and really appreciate the nice comment:) And just like last time you commented I have a sudden urge to watch the Terminator 😆 hope you had a great Christmas 👍
@@dbvares8745Terminator is always a very good cinematic inspiration 🤣
Absolute truth 😆 I grew up watching Arnie films and that is one of the very best:)
Your amazing!!!! 𝐓𝐇𝐀𝐍𝐊 𝐘𝐎𝐔
KB, you’re far too kind but I really appreciate the nice feedback:)
Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 👍
@@dbvares8745 thanks! And not to be “that guy” but I go by my legal name King. Thanks!
Thank you sir for this video
Thank YOU Christian for taking the time to watch and share such a nice comment:) Consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have a great weekend:)
Another Amazing informative video :) Thank you! I was struggling with the Flicker...
Thanks AB:) great to hear from you again and very happy to help:) Yeah I learned about flicker the hard way when it ruined some shots I did a few months back so I vowed to research the issue and now I have my revenge 😆 Hope you had a great Christmas and are doing well 👍
@@dbvares8745 Thank You Actually I live in India and we have 50 Hz I tried today. It was better than Automatic but it was there a little bit :(. However, the light source was multiple One was natural from the window and another was a 7 Watt Led Bulb... but anyway... your trick did the job :) I will share if I will find a method to vanish it or may be it was because of multiple sources :). Yes I am doing fine. Hope you also have a great time... Thank you for remembering ...
Yeah multiple sources can make things a bit more tricky. There also seem to be some lights which flicker at a different speed even though they are powered from the mains. I have Phillips hue smart lights and at 1/50 there is less flicker than other levels but I can’t eliminate completely, which suggests they flicker at a non standard speed (super annoying 😆). So I just keep the offending lights out of my footage.
2 potential thoughts: try looking at one artificial light at a time to see if there is a shutter setting which gets rid of flicker and if there are any lights where no setting works see if you can remove or substitute for another light.
If your budget or gear allow then a continuous LED based light can be a great investment. I have a ring light for my main studio source and then a portable one the size of an iPhone which changes colour. Both are continuous so no flicker at any shutter and super helpful!
Greetings for the UK too:) I was fortunate to go to my friends wedding in Chandigarh a couple of years ago plus a few other places and loved it:) 👍
@@dbvares8745 Thank you for sharing this. I do have a ring light I will use that as well.. Actually, I also travel and make travel vlogs at another channel. named as backpackerankit... But I am a beginner in traveling Hope someday I will visit UK as well. If you had any plans to visit Uttarakhand in India Let me know dear.. Actually I also host people from Couchsurfing :) I hope you know about Couchsurfing... Anyway thanks again for this informative response :) It will help me a lot in my videos.... I will try and let you know...
That sounds good:) I’m familiar with couch surfing and have heard good things! Definitely hope to return to India one day and same goes if you make it to the uk at some point 💪👍
Amazing review, I need this camera !
It's definitely one of my favourites Guillaume, for the price and size I really like the ZV-1! Thanks for watching, consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have a great weekend:)
I'm confused. I came in for a low light guide, but got a standup show. 😂👏
great video! I'm looking for a relatively inexpensive camera that can film b-roll type footage late at night outside nightclub venues etc. Would you recommend this camera for that kind of work? I'm not particularly worried about autofocus in the dark
Thank you so much. This is great content and very informative. Subs 😉
Amazing, thank you so much for the kind words and welcome on board:) hope you have a great day 😁👍
@@dbvares8745 have a great day too, my friend.
Greetings from Indonesia.
That’s awesome, greeting from the Uk:) Indonesia is such a fascinating place I hope I can visit when the world is a bit more normal again 😆:)
Filming yourself is fine with the zv1, but if you need depth of field, it's tough cos you gotta turn down the f-stops, and therefore exposure. It's still not too bad, you just gotta crank your iso a fair bit if you want depth of field.
Hey JBT, good to hear from you again and fully agree:) While higher iso isn’t ideal for noise I’ve found dragging down mods and shadows can help quite a bit when grading so that might help to get the best of both worlds too:)
Thanks for the insightful stuff and have an awesome weekend 👍
really interesting topic, thanks :)
Thanks Steve, I’ve just sent an essay of a response to your other comment 😆 Appreciate you checking this one out too and hope you’re having an awesome day 💪
Planning to buy this camera and your video came up. My only concern was night mode and seems I'm sorted to uy this camera.
Great video, thanks a lot
Thanks PC, really appreciate you watching and the nice comment:) Consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have a great day 👍
Another great video. Would appreciate a video on picture profiles. Would like to find the best PP without needing to grade for 1) good light 2) Low light/indoors scenarios. Top quality videos. You can see the effort you put into them. Thank you!
Thanks JT, great to hear from you again and hugely appreciate the positive vibes:)
It’s also a good suggestion. I usually shooting in HLG as (once I’ve mapped to standard colour space) I really like the colours ungraded. But I really like the structure you’ve suggested. Leave it with me and consider it on the to do list:)
@@dbvares8745 Thanks, what do you mean by mappi g to standard colour space? Tweaking the HLG profile within camera? Thanks
Hey JT, it’s slightly more involved-basically HLG captures more colour info than other profiles because it supports high dynamic range or HDR (you’ve likely seen advertised on TVs or game consoles if you aren’t familiar already). So if you want to use it on a standard dynamic range timeline (which almost all content is still delivered in) there’s a minor extra step to map from HDR to SDR when editing.
This vid is a quick overview and my approach: ruclips.net/video/88lUbO7hOA4/видео.html
Hope that helps and that you’re having a kickass day 👍
Thanks for adding US links!
You are more than welcome sir:)
first up this video is excellent, I have just got a zv 1 (my first ever camera) and am still playing around with it / learning how to use it and so I continue to watch videos like this one which really do help. One question I do have (which could be silly), is there a way to continuously shoot slow motion? atm, the slow-mo seems to only shoot for a handful of seconds.
Chris massive thanks for watching and the nice feedback:) And not a silly Q at all!
There are 2 types of slowmo on the ZV1 it sounds like you’ve been using the ultra slowmo which is limited to a few seconds recording and it’s called HFR (high frame rate) mode. I’ve got a bunch of tips for that one here in case useful: ruclips.net/video/nwklmfVPaoo/видео.html
For continuous slowmo you can record in 120 or 100fps. Head to menu 2, tab 1 of the zv1 and set the file format to XAVC HD and recording setting to 120 or 100p. The number after (60m or 100m) is telling you how high quality and how much space the files will take-I always recommend choosing the highest.
Once you’ve recorded you’ll need to slow your files down in your editing software-unlike HFR mode the ZV1 won’t do this for you. So if you record in 120fps and your project is 24fps you can slow down to 20% speed (24=20% of 120) when you edit.
My other tip here is for quick access - I have shortcuts and custom menus for this stuff which makes shooting easier - part of this vid will explain how to do that in case you’re not familiar: ruclips.net/video/9zwIur02jHo/видео.html
Lastly, I do have a new slow mo guide planned in the next few weeks so if you’re interested or find this content helpful consider subscribing to catch that stuff:)
Sorry for the super long answer but hopefully will help:) Let me know any other Qs and good luck shooting some epic slow mo 💪👍
@@dbvares8745 Hey, massive thank you for the reply. Since I have only recently got the camera (and it is all new to me) I have spent endless hours watching RUclips vids, including urs. This latest vid I stumbled upon was in relation to settings I should be using for low light settings, I want to try to and learn how to do long exposure aswell as just shooting some good looking cinematic footage at night, I'm not sure if you have done any videos particularly on these yet or not. Anyways, I enjoyed Ur vid so much that I thought I would hit you up about the slow Mo, which you have answered perfectly so I thank you for that. I will be checking out those links U posted (as every bit of info is awesome at this point) and I can't wait for Ur future vids!!!!
Amazing, thanks Chris and welcome on board:) I’m very similar to a lot of what you described 😆 The ZV1 was my first proper camera about 7 months back and I fell in love with shooting and learning how to do things better:) Very fun and a positive to focus on compared to the pandemic restrictions here in the uk! As far as low light I think this vid should cover most things you need to know but very happy to pick up any extra Qs. Managing light flicker and noise while getting enough light or high enough iso for decent exposure is the key balancing act in low light. If you shoot 1/50 shutter at 24 or 25fps you’ll get the ‘cinematic’ type of motion and then the content is all about your preferred style:)
Long exposure is a good shout though. I’ve been trying to do shorter vids based on people’s questions and that is a perfect one for a little 3 minute quick tip or similar. Stay tuned for that and have an awesome day:)
I am currently using two cameras A7III and Sony A7RII, however my sony A7RII is a bit old now and it doesn’t perform well with autofocus, low light as well as the compatibility of my canon lenses. I was thinking to get ZV1 to replace my Sony A7RII and it will be used as a B cam as i have been using A7III as my main camera. Let me know if it’s a good choice or not. Thanks
Hello SIr. Great tutorials. I just got my ZV1 and tried some night video. Generally i was pleased with it, but i was getting very blownout results on items such as streetlight and shop signs . Any tips?
great work..!!
Thanks Shack, really appreciate you watching and the nice comment:) if you like this sort of content consider subscribing and have an awesome day 👍
*just bought this camera and I love it. and your sense of humor is too god for a tech channel. start a commentary/reaction channel instead*
Hey RR, congrats on the purchase and have fun shooting some awesome stuff 💪 Massive thanks for the kind words too:) I’d definitely do a second channel focussed on more dumb humour if/when I can find the time 😆
Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a kick ass weekend 💪
Great tips there and I particularly liked the slo mo results.
I've only been shooting in default mode with my ZV-1 as I haven't experimented with any of the picture profiles. I no longer do editing on my pc as prefer using an android tablet these days with Kinemaster as it's so much faster. However, I don't know how good the app is for colour grading, there are plenty of options though. Are you familiar with the app? There seems to be a real lack of decent video editing apps for Android and Kinemaster seems the best, in fact it's the only one that will let you export in PAL format!
Thanks Mark, great to hear from you again and very much appreciate the feedback:) I’ve heard of Kinemaster and known a couple of friends get decent results but that’s about the extent of my knowledge unfortunately.
However as you say there are likely a lot of options across the android universe - one of the great aspects of a healthy app ecosystem- so I’m sure there’s going to be something good within there.
I think for low light just being able to try and balance iso noise vs exposure when you first capture along with avoiding light flicker is the trickiest part, if you can manage that then the grading can be quite simple to adjust exposure to take things a bit darker and moodier etc. That’s how I try to think of it anyway:)
Let me know how you get on and sorry I can’t be more helpful on this particular one! The great/bad thing about Apple is everything interconnects so well so every time I see a cool android product I’m like ‘but I’d lose this element of workflow’ 😆
Have an awesome day mate 👍
Would you recommend this to use in a dash cam setup? I have spent hours deciding between a Sony A6400 and Fujifilm X-T30, but this camera looks pretty good in low-light settings. Does this do something in particular that would be more efficient for recording driving?
Thanks for the video!
what did you end up with?
@@truthseeker6804 i have xt 30 and consider to buy zv-1 for its compact and internal stabilization.. but afraid with big difference of the sensor.. but actually zv1 not bad for lowlight video.. any thoughts?
@@budi_s27 low light is good with zv1, if anything you can add slight denoise. if you want great low light get full frame. zv1 compact nature is cool. but its not super wide angle and cannot zoom very far also.
Thanks. I enjoy the video a lot, both because the information is useful and also funny to watch. I have this problem on using Sony ZV1 when shooting indoor with HLG3, resulting lots of noise even in ISO1000. I am still wondering why. Is it because of the HLG setting? Or just shifting to use HLG1? I found that your video still with low noise level using much higher ISO than me.
Hey Wai, thanks for watching and for the great question and nice feedback:)
I think one key thing is that I usually film in HLG but then map the footage into standard dynamic range when I edit (rather than HDR like HLG is capable of). I also find that mapping into Rec.2020 gives me loads of range to push exposure and colours around when I grade which is helpful.
I normally do this by changing the colour space in Final Cut (called colour space override) to Rec.2020. This reduces the brightness of the HLG footage on a standard dynamic range timeline and also massively reduces noise.
Then even if I boost exposure a lot to add brightness when I colour correct the noise seems to be largely gone.
I haven’t tried editing in a HDR timeline for a while since very few people have HDR devices so can’t comment on that with as much knowledge.
As for the other tips I can offer: definitely I found HLG1 was a bit less noisy than 3 so that’s worth trying for sure. I also found more noise if the camera is ‘straining’. What I mean is that if there is good light (like a street light) on your subject then you will get much less noise at the same ISO than if there’s very little light in the frame at all. I need to test this more fully but o got pretty consistent results where more light got me less noise at the same ISO.
Hope that helps and feel free to ask if you have any other Qs. Thanks again for watching, consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have an awesome day 💪👍
@@dbvares8745 Thanks for your details and I am really appreciated. My understanding is there are three methods to improve: 1) find light source even when using high ISO; 2) using HLG1; 3)change the "color space override" setting to REC.2020. Do I understand correctly? I will try this later to see how it works.
Sony ZV1 is my first camera and first time to use Final Cut Pro to do editing, it is an overwhelming but enjoyable learning process. And your channel definitely help when focusing ZV1 techniques and sure, I have subscribing watching this video.
No problem at all, happy to help and welcome on board:)
That’s a very good summary 👍 If you’re in final cut I’d start with colour space override (it’s in the ‘info’ section of the clip inspector) as that is probably the single thing that I think helps most. But then as you say the other 2 can assist as well. Let me know how you get on!
The video I have planned for next week is a quick guide to how I work with HLG and grade it in final cut so hopefully that will be helpful to follow along if you haven’t mastered thing in the meantime:) 💪
Very helpfull.. Thanks.. 👍, my you give other tips on next your video. for about perfect full portrait bokeh video and photo setting. Thanks
Thanks Li:) appreciate the comment and the kind words! For bokeh my top tips are make sure your aperture is as open as possible, so set at f1.8 for the ZV1. Also the more distance behind your subject to the background the more bokeh you will get so try having the background as far as back as you can. I live alone so haven’t had a chance to practice many portraits in current conditions 😆 But leave that idea with me and I’ll see what I can do.
Hope that helps and let me know if you have any other questions:) Thanks for watching and consider subscribing if you like this sort of content 👍😁
Do you think it's a good camera for concert ?
I am new to shooting videos. I have a zv1 and was shooting fantastic video using some settings from a tutorial and cine 2. However it looked terrible in low light. Is the best idea to increase my exposure in low light settings? I wish I had some examples to show u but that specific vlog I’m referring to isn’t up yet.
Hey Dan, it sounds like the exposure could be the trick. My approach using HLG (which shouldn’t be too different to Cine) was to find the iso where I got enough exposure info, even if there was noise, that when I colour graded and pulled down the shadows it would look good.
That pulling down the shadows (and some of the mids) when grading was key for me. It will make most of the noise invisible and it’s much easier to do thing that way than expose for low noise in camera then try to boost brightness if things are hard to see - I found that emphasised noise 😆
I hope that makes sense and is somewhat helpful - let me know how you get on:)
Also, thanks for watching, consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have a great day 💪👍
@@dbvares8745 Will do. I watched a video or two more on the subject. Seems the best and most common thing to do is to not color grade footage shot at night. Which means having the best possible settings on the camera while filming in low light and then not touching it in post.
Hello what is the best settings if I don't have 4k laptop?
Hi. Great video!. How do you know the shutter count in sony zv-1 camera? Thanks in advance!
Hey Ms Lakwatsera, if you press the up button on the zv1 control wheel when in video mode you will cycle through different displays of information. A couple of these will show the shutter number at the bottom of the screen. It’s always written as a fraction like 1/50. One of my videos covers how to use the manual controls and change that display info, it might be helpful:) ruclips.net/video/9zwIur02jHo/видео.html Ots in the second half of that one.
Thanks for watching, let me know if you any other questions and consider subscribing if you like this sort of content:) 👍
Amazing review even better opening joke 😂
Haha - glad you liked it Mario and really appreciate the kind words! Consider subbing if you like the content and have a great weekend:)
I like your video, bc it turn out exact quality that i got in lowlight. NOT like some channel talk good about this camera in lowlight. 1 in sensor cant perform well in lowlight even at f 1.8 guys . people are over hyped this zv .
Hey Thai, thanks for watching and the insightful comment. I agree - sensor size is a physical limit that is just unavoidable. The zv1 will destroy most smartphones in low light, but a similar aperture lens on a crop body will best the zv1 easily, full frame even more etc.
I think you can get some nice results on the zv1 especially with a bit of noise and colour management but it definitely requires more learning and work.
What are you normally shooting with for lower light?
Anyway thanks for sharing the cool thoughts and consider subscribing if you like this sort of content 💪👍
@@dbvares8745 thanks for rep. i normallly shoot with m50 22mm f2 .. its not the widest len but for b roll and vlog, it can handle good. that f2 perform really good with some noise at 1600 iso , but depend on the content that you create. i dont have youtube channel but i make video for my passion. i got my m50 kit len and 22mm f2 for less than a new zv 1.. of course all used :)...
Nice, that’s a good setup! I looked close at the M50 but the portability and some of the extra autofocus and slow mo options on the ZV1 swing the decision for me. Both great options.
What’s the crop on the M50 like 1.5x so the 22 is around a 35 or so? I’m looking at stuff around that focal length for my A6400 and an f2 or below would be nice depending on the options for e mount.
Also awesome to hear about making vids for passion. I’ve always liked creating stuff but only did little bit in video until about 7 months back-started this channel to have something positive to focus on rather than all the pandemic lockdown stuff 😆
Take care and have a great day bro
@@dbvares8745 canon 1.6x crop zv 1 2.7x .. i choose canon for budget lol.. sony lenses are crazy expensive! but i do like both brand.. good luck on new channel
Yeah you’re right: very fun but it’s expensive fun to work with cameras, lenses and vids haha 😆 Thank you and good luck with your shooting too:) Take care and have a great weekend 💪
Was the in-studio footage in ZV-1 too>? If so, is that on Auto or custom settings?
Hey Justin, I just picked up your other comment on this, but in case anyone has the same Q and spots the one here: the in studio is the Sony A6400 with the Sigma 16mm f1.4.
Settings in the studio are always manual since it’s a much easier to control environment:
ISO - always the lowest possible to minimise noise; I use HLG3 so always leave at the lowest ISO of 250 and control exposure with my lighting
Shutter - always 1/50 at 24fps frame rate to get that natural looking ‘cinematic’ motion blur people are used to
Aperture: always lowest possible to maximise the nice bokeh and separate meetings from my blurry background. With this setup that means f1.4, when I use my ZV1 as the studio cam it’s the lowest in that which is f1.8.
Hope that helps and let me know if you have any other Qs. Thanks for watching and have an awesome day:) 💪
So using focus peaking along with focus zoom on the ZV1 makes manual focusing an easier process. Check that out!
Thanks SM, that’s a great tip I didn’t think to include here. Definitely a good shout! Thanks for watching and the insightful comment, consider subbing if you like this sort of content 👍
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏hello. how are you? please help me as i am desperate.
So i bought a monitor on amazon because i wanted to see my self on a bigger screen wile using my sony ZV1. I also bought a micro hdmi cable but, the monitor has a Mini HDMI sistem and c type usb sistem.
now i dont know what to do and what to buy to use my sony zv1 to my monitor that has a mini hdmi and usb c type.
Plese help me i dont know what to do and have a lot of video to record.
I am subscribed to your channel.
Hey Christina I remember you and nice to hear from you:) Equally it’s sucks you’re having technical issues and hopefully I can help.
It sounds like the initial connection is the problem, right? I had a quick look on Amazon and it looks like a micro hdmi to mini hdmi cable or various hdmi connection adapters (eg adapters from full HDMI to mini hdmi) are available for £5-10. I think starting by trying a cheap cable or adapter to try and fix things is likely the best start.
Let me know if I haven’t understood the question correctly or if I have hopefully that will help:)
Thanks and have a nice day 👍
@@dbvares8745 wow you remembered me? Impressive considering you deal with a lot of people.
Thanks for your fast reply.
I mean I have a micro hdmi cable and a mini hdm cable. The mini didn’t fit the Sony zv1 but fit the monitor. The micro hdmi fit the Sony but not the monitor.
I might buy (god help me now because I am kind of pissed off) and adapter and see if it works.
So annoying.
Thanks a lot 🙏❤️ and have a good day
@@dbvares8745 do you think something like this www.amazon.it/dp/B07K21HSQX/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_api_i_7NwcGbR21T3SN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
No worries and I hope it works:) These kind of things are super annoying so I feel for you 😆 I love tech but some of the stupid different connections and weird inconsistencies can drive me crazy!
Fingers crossed it works and if the monitor is new you could always consider returning it and getting one with connections that will work more easily as a backup plan.
And same to you, have a lovely day:)
Hey Christina sorry for the delayed reply - YT had your comment held for review for some reason so I only just spotted it - have you managed to get things working as you would like? Hope you're well and having a nice weekend:)
Hi Dave, super video. Really well explained. I'm an auto kind of guy haha. Mt tip for you is to ask from the like and sub much sooner into the video, if you do this you will grow much faster. A lot of folks will have dropped off before they hear this call to action. Hope you had a great Christmas
Hey PL, really great hear from you as ever and thanks for the tip! Usually aim for the half way point depending on script and flow but I’ll look one third or something and see how that goes, great observation! Auto on the zv1 is great in so many situations but I’m that total nerd who wants to understand and use everything 😆
And thanks, hope you had a wonderful Christmas too:)
@@dbvares8745 give you a laugh, I struggled with the camera for the first couple of weeks even on auto hahaha! I can't recall numbers and have always struggled, getting out of auto is a struggle. I had never heard of the lights in the UK flickering at a certain rate. If you carry on making videos as good as this you will grow.
I wouldn’t worry man, we all have our strengths-mine sure as hell is not anything green fingered 😆 But that’s what makes the world fun and interesting. I really appreciate the support too. My loose goal a few weeks back was 100 subs by end of this year and I’ve been really pleased how that’s picked up beyond expectations. I’ve only really had more strategy and consistency the last couple of months having started in July but am enjoying the process and the little insights you offer are a massive help, so thank you 😊
@@dbvares8745 It took me a year or so to hit 1k, I hit it on Christmas day last year (of all the days to hit it haha). I like targets to aim at, I thought I could hit 3k by the end of this year 2020. I thought if I worked hard at it I might even hit 4k. Never did I dream I would be over 19k!
RUclips gives you loads of information in the analytics and once you start to understand what they all mean it can really help you grow your channel.
Your channel and a few others like Vic Barry and Pottermade help me get the most out of my camera as at the best of time I don't have a clue on the best ways to use it.
That’s amazing, fantastic result and testament to both hard work and quality content. Brilliant stuff man 💪👍 Inspirational too, it’s always good to have insight from people further ahead on the journey but not the huge well known folk who seem mikes away. Truly I really appreciate that, it made me smile:) I don’t know what your target is for 2021 but I’m hoping you’re well on the way to 50k or more:)
Very pleased to be in the same company you mentioned too, I know of both channels and really like the Pottermade guy in particular (blonde guys stick together 😆). Look forward to more tips, Qs and progress updates in the future my friend:)
Hi there, would like to ask you some questions, i just got the ZV-1 about a month ago. the past few days i tried to shoot a talking head with it in an indoor room, at night, with some constant lighting. at first i set the iso to auto with max 3200, the footage out of it was very grainy. then i tried to set it to manual iso of 800, it still quite grainy. Picture profile i used was cine 2. Kindly advise on what seems to be my probem, I have a feeling it's the PP that i used. your thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks before mate!
Hey Ferry sorry for the slow reply - didn’t get a notification for this comment so only just seeing as I pick up stuff I haven’t replied to!
So 2 main things I do for lower light: I like to film in HLG as it has solid dynamic range (picture profile 10) but doesn’t force a high iso like s-log.
Second is post production: I always pull down mids and shadows a bit where possible and that will substantially reduce visible noise. Hope that helps!
Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have an awesome day 👍
By the way do you know how to set focus by touching the screen but keep it FIXED during a shoot? I can only use touch for focus auto-tracking (which may change the focal distance if the object moves), or set it manually with the dial (which is difficult to verify with the small screen, as you pointed out).
Hey Juninell, I’m away from my fear right now but from memory I think there are settings you can change to tweak the touch focus behaviour. Not sure there is a touch and then fixed setting but there may be. A workaround is to touch to set focus then immediately toggle to manual focus to lock it. There’s a bunch of tips on focus settings here: ruclips.net/video/PDKC0k28TJA/видео.html and tips of setting custom button shortcuts here: ruclips.net/video/_Sn6f-W0UrU/видео.html in case helpful.
Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have an awesome day 👍
Question, how does a zv1 not record 4k60 but an iphone 8 can? And for youtube, would there be a major difference between 1080 and 4k? Because i notice many use 1080
Hey Mig, thanks for watching and the interesting comment. Many dedicated cameras, even more expensive ones can’t do 4k60 (or 1080p240 slowmo) like current iPhones or other smartphones. The biggest reason as I understand it is processing power-cameras have processors which are good at capturing photo and video plus a few other basic tasks; smartphones are powerful mini computers which can often beat a cheaper laptop. iPhone especially have very powerful processors which give them an advantage in recording higher resolution and frame rate against all but the highest end dedicated cameras (like Sony A7S3, Cannon R5 etc).
If you definitely need 4k60 then a smartphone is likely you best value option. However even the best smartphones lose out in a lot of aspects of image quality to a dedicated smartphone. You might find my comparison of ZV1 and iPhone 12 handy for an overview of the main differences: Just managed to get this vid done, attempted a few new tricks to up production value so I'd be grateful for thoughts if you fancy a look, plus the usual like/comment helps if you're inclined. Thank you:) ruclips.net/video/lZ3msRPd11g/видео.html
As for 4K v 1080p; I’d say it depends on your type of channel and how you like to create personally. If you’re doing a talking head thing about say politics or fashion then you might not be worried about video quality as much as a tech/video creation channel like mine so that’s one factor. I definitely notice a difference when creating and much prefer the sharpness of 4k but it’s personal preference and definitely not essential. You can also film 4k and edit a 1080p output which will give sharper and more detailed results than working in all 1080p. And if frame rate is most important to you (maybe you have a sports or gaming channel) then 1080p is likely a better option. So while you don’t need 4k for YT I do think it has advantages and will become more and more the standard in the next few years as technology advances, but right now 1080p is great depending on your preference and usage.
Sorry for the long answer but hope it’s helpful:) thanks for watching and please consider subscribing if you like this sort of stuff 👍
@@dbvares8745 i appreciate the long answer shows how dedicated and educated you are. Thank you so much im just a beginner with this camera stuff.
No worries, I’m happy to help and I’m a real nerd for this stuff 😆:) Do let me know if you have any other questions! And good luck with your creative journey:) I only got into cameras and video creation about 6 months ago to try and make positive use of all my time in pandemic lockdown 😆 Thankfully this channel and nice people like yourself have helped me find positives in 2020 👍
Help: I bought the ZV-1 (not the best cam for low light conditions I know), but I am wondering which exposure should you try to aim when filming parties in nightclubs or weddings? In daylight we always try to aim 0.0 exposure. But does this count for shooting a nightclub as well? I mean, in a nightclub its dark, our eyes in the nightclub see less then outside because of the darkness and flickering lights? If you want to capture that, I guess you dont need to hit that avarage 0.0 exposure? For example, when theres a frame where there is no strobo or big light lightend up, the "dark" moments, what exposure should you aim there? Or is it the other way around? When there's a frame with the strobe is lit, do you need to hit the 0.0 exposure then or is it ok to go over the 0.0? Beginner question :) I feel the breaking point of my Sony ZV-1 in low light is ISO 200 / 400. The exposure I get from that is -1.7 within a frame that the strobo is not active.
Hey DM, so the short answer to this; yes it’s ok to go over 0.0, some picture profiles with more dynamic range like HLG or slog often work best if a bit overexposed and then with shadows or highlights pulled down as needed in post production.
The real answer is that you need to assess you footage and experiment to find what works best in this conditions. As a general rule it’s easier to overexpose a little and pull things down in post than to underexpose and try to boost shadows. Try looking into the zebra feature of the Zv1 which helps the camera highlight when things in frame are over exposed enough to start losing information and then see how you do exposing just below that level.
For iso I’d say you’ll get decent results up to 1600 in most situations and potentially higher depending on specifics. Again if you have any image noise issues but you also have enough exposure then pulling down shadows and mid tones will often make noise largely disappear - this is often what I do with low light.
The main thing is to keep experimenting with your specific situation but hopefully those are some thoughts that can help you get results you want faster:) Let me know how you get on!
Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 👏💪
You’re no vegetable police but adequate
Haha 😂 I aspire to be in the same league as Kasey one day but there’s a way to go yet 😂
Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 👏
I think I would use s-log2 or s-log 3 instead of HLG profiles. Not sure why, I guess I'm old school
Hey WBP, it's a good point - s-log should have similar dynamic range to HLG - I've just gotten used to HLG as I'm a fan of the colour with relatively little grading, but both should do a solid job. Thanks for watching and the insightful comments, consider subscribing if you like this kind of content and have a great day:)
Hi mate, you really gave away good information here. I have a favor to ask, I have been strugling to color grade those HLG2 footage from my ZV 1 in Davinci Resolve 16, there are very rare videos on how to color grade HLG2 footage compared to SLog2 or 3. Could you give me some tips on how I color grade HLG footage? Highly appreciate your help.
Hey Hugo, many thanks for watching and for the great question:)
Is it the grade you’re having trouble with or getting HLG to work in the first place?
What I mean when I say getting it to work is if you use HLG in a Rec.709 project you can get results that look really blown out and over exposed. I can offer some thoughts on how I deal with in Final cut and it looks like similar options exist for Resolve from a quick bit of research.
If the footage looks ok then you’re likely either working in a HDR project already or mapping into a Rec.709 or other SDR colour space, and then it’s about how to grade just to make the footage look nicer.
Let me know which you’re dealing with (footage looks overexposed or footage looks ok and it’s about grading to enhance) and I’ll try to help as best as I can:) I’ve got a video planned on my approach on final cut so this is well timed 😆
@@dbvares8745 thanks for replying 😊, I have hard time for setting my PP 10 (hlg2) in my ZV 1 such as whats is the black gamma value and so on. And also, having hard time to figure out what will be the adequate work flow to color correct HLG2 footage in Resolve.
Sometimes I get very harsh yellowish color in my highlight eventhough I have set my gain right in my primary wheels. Maybe I missed something?
That’s helpful extra context, thanks. So I’m not an expert on picture profiles or colour correction, but here are my exact settings, what I do and a couple of other thoughts that might help:
So in PP10 most settings are default for me: black level 0; gamma: I switch between HLG1/2/3 depending on whether I want max noise reduction or Max dynamic range - I don’t change anything else when I switch them though; black gamma: never changed so range still set as middle and level is greyed out; knee is set to manual but I’ve never adjusted it; colour mode: bt.2020; saturation 0; colour phase 0; colour depth all 0; detail -7
In the edit I use final cut with HLG as my input and standard dynamic range output (since very few people will be able to watch in HDR for a while!). I do this by using Rec.2020 as a colour space override in final cut on each clip. This tames the highlights but keeps the nice colours of HLG which I like. You can get similar results mapping into Rec.709 or using a LUT designed for HLG depending what look you like. I think the equivalent in Resolve is colour space input and output so I’m guessing input would be 2020HLG (or similar, I forget the exact name hahah) and you can set output the same way I use colour space override in FCP (set to Rec.2020 to emulate my approach). I’ve got limited experience of Resolve so sorry I can’t be more certain!
As for yellow or other tints, try the colour space stuff first (I use Rec.2020 because it doesn’t seem to cause a tint whereas I did get some yellow vibes using Rec.709). After that I think the setting to experiment with in the ZV1 is colour phase - I know some chat has gone on about yellow tint in A7S3 footage and I’ve heard tweaking colour phase as a solution. When I have a tech issue like this I try to find a scene where I can replicate the problem and just sit there filming and saying as I adjust the setting I’m playing with, then hopefully in the edit you can find the level that gives the best results.
Sorry for the massive essay but hopefully some part is helpful-let me know! And thanks again for watching and the interesting question, if you like this sort of stuff consider subscribing and have an great day 😊💪
@@dbvares8745 nice tips mate, will try your advise ASAP thanks a alot.
No worries mate, you know where I am if I can help and good luck shooting:)
Hello, I bought this yesterday. Please Help me set this up. And what editor do you use for editing this, i even bought laptop but i don't know how to use it yet😭
Hey LPM, what element of setting up are you having trouble with? It’s easier if we can narrow down to specific Qs.
As for editing, I’m a Mac user and edit in Final Cut. If you’re just getting started and have a Mac then iMovie is a great option. If you have windows I’m not as familiar with entry level packages but DaVinci resolve is a great high level option that’s available for free.
Hope that helps and have fun getting up the learning curve:) 😁
@@dbvares8745 hi, I don't think that DaVinci is free, maybe you mean about free trial. That's my problem because a lot of editing apps are free trial only. imovie definitely my first choice but not free at all, as of the moment I'm practicing video editor provided by microsoft
Many questions have now been resolved and one of the remaining questions I would like to ask you.
What I've come to realize is that manual settings open up a lot more possibilities when filming, but are only possible in more or less static environments. When I'm filming in an environment like a forest, with dark conifers and bright clearings, the conditions change every few meters and it's practically impossible to keep the exposure usable. The automatic mode can iron this out, but unfortunately, of course, the exposure is constantly adjusted, which is unattractive.
Am I missing something or is there a trick for such situations?
Once again a really thoughtful and interesting Q:)
So I don’t think there’s a perfect solution here but this is what I try to do in these situations of changing lighting:
Try to find a best fit of manual settings for the overall area;
I like the classic 24fps, 1/50 shutter so I’m normally controlling exposure with ND, ISO or my own lights (if that’s practical/makes sense for the scene) and I normally like to keep iso no more than 6400, ideally no more than 3200 where possible.
The aim of the best fit is to capture enough info in the footage to then colour grade enough light and shade to properly represent the detail/aesthetic afterwards. It’s not perfect but I find I get more flexible and pleasing results that the sometimes weird changes auto can bring.
I also recommend the picture profiles aimed at preserving maximum dynamic range for this reason - you can usually overexpose to a reasonable degree and retain data you can restore by grading down the highlights later. HLG (pp10) is my preferred choice as I like the colours but I think the S-Log profiles (pp7-9) probably capture very similar maybe even more range. My basic approach on HLG is here in case you’re using final cut: ruclips.net/video/_oAFyPZYUFA/видео.html
I’m still learning the best balance and how overexposed you can go before permanently losing info; how consistent the ZV1 meter and different zebra settings are to help gauge that etc so there’s definitely a bit of experimentation involved still
Not an elegant answer I’m afraid but maybe a strategy that can help on some situations. Let me know what you think and if you find any of this works for your shooting situations.
As always take care and great hearing from you 😊👍👍
@@dbvares8745 I am very happy about your detailed answers, thank you! Elegant answers do not have to be at all. As I said, I think we ignorant people all enjoy your detailed answers until your channel explodes and you only give interviews to BBC if at all or meet with Boris Johnson, Sir Elton John or Adele for shooting.🤩
The color grading thing in post-production is still a bit away from me and I have to try it at a later date. But of course I see that everything is connected and you should also work on it for qualitatively beautiful pictures. Unfortunately I just don't have enough time for everything but it is very exciting and I will be able to free up time for it little by little.
I have also experimented a bit with the image profiles. HLG2 seems to be very well balanced for later post-processing. But as I said, I don't know enough about that yet. I'm happy if I can now just make a usable film with some nice shots with this camera.
I wish you a nice and relaxing Sunday!
Always love chatting 4Lakes and this is no exception. You definitely have more confidence about the channel exploding than I do but you never know 😆
I’ve been learning the colour grading stuff in parallel and while I’m a long way from an expert it is a very useful tool once you know a modest amount - based on your detail and quality focus on the camera side I think you’ll quite enjoy once you get the time for it:)
Sunday has been a combo of weekend working on the day job and getting some bits of footage for planned videos, so not perfect but not too bad - hope yours has been good too:) 👍
@@dbvares8745 Thanks for this info as I'm having the same issues--I will keep experimenting.
in ISO range 3200 to 6400 did you use noise reduction in post??
Hey Eric, great question! I can confirm no. Lose reduction was used anywhere in post. I did use colour grading to pull down exposure in places as that can really help hide visible noise, but that’s the only post work I did around noise.
Hope that helps:)
Thanks for watching, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 👏
Nice, thanks for reminding *hit subscribe*
Is it possible to limit the iso, not to set the iso but limit it?
Hey Coffey, the answer is yes: press right on the control wheel when ready to shoot and the iso level will come up. If you scroll to the very lowest you’ll see ‘auto’ as an option. Here you can set a minimum and maximum iso level and the camera will automatically more between them depending on the brightness of the scene you’re shooting. Hope that helps and let me know if you have any other Qs.
Thanks for watching, consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have a great weekend 💪👍
@@dbvares8745 Thank you
I'm the 1000th like🙃
Is there a way to lock the MAX ISO. I’ve not found one.
Hey BFA, when you set is to auto you can set the minimum and max iso, so you stop max iso going above your chosen level. So you can lock it in that sense. If you want to avoid any change in exposure from iso automatically changing then the solution there is just to set it manually at whatever level best fits the overall conditions across the duration of your shot. Hope that helps and wishing you a chilled day 👍
@@dbvares8745 I didn't find that function. Have I missed an update?
When you scroll through ISO options you should find an auto iso option between the lowest and highest setting. You can then set the lower and higher level you want iso to vary automatically between. Hope that helps and have a great day 👍
@@dbvares8745 I did that and found them last night - thank you very much. I did wonder where the feature was!
Awesome, glad you found it:)
I want to know why image profiles get grainy (noise) in low light and how to remove noise from pp10 and other profile images. I have zv1.
Please help :)
Hey Marek, unfortunately some noise is inevitable-in low light and with higher and higher ISO all digital cameras get that grainy noise in the image, so our main goal is to try and reduce that as much as possible.
First thing I’d suggest is using HLG1 rather than any of the other HLG options; when you are selecting picture profile press right to get more options and then choose HLG1 in the gamma options. This has the least noise of all the choices
Next, I record in HDR but then map into SDR colour space of rec.709 as that is what most people will be able to view videos in. To do that I map the footage into Rec.2020 colour space using colour space override in final cut which darkens things and maps into standard dynamic range,”. Doing this also reduces the visibility of noise. If you’d like more detail on this let me know as I’m thinking to cover in my planned colour grading video.
Another thing to do is try to get as much light as possible into the camera when you film-being closer to a light or bringing your own light when you shoot. I noticed in my testing that the same iso produces noticeably less noise when it’s even a little brighter at the point of filming.
2 more ideas: first when I colour grade low light footage I like to increase overall exposure then pull the shadows down until the darkest part of the image is just about pure black and then often reduce the mids on higher iso shots to get a moody look I like. This grading darkens and adds contrast to the image which seems to help reduce visibility of noise.
Last but not least you can also apply noise reduction. I use the built in one in final cut, you will likely have one in your editing software of choice too, plus there will be lots of third party noise reduction plugins available. I haven’t tested any third party plugins for years but I’m confident there will be some quite effective ones on the market:)
Sorry for the super long response but hopefully that helps a bit:) let me know if you have other Qs, thanks for watching and please consider subscribing if this sort of stuff is useful 👍😁
@@dbvares8745 Thank you. Thanks for the tips.
No problem:) let me know if you have other questions and have fun shooting 👍
When someone loves you, the way they talk about you is different. You feel safe and comfortable.
Thanks Thu, is that a thought which the video brought to mind? 😆 If you enjoyed them consider subscribing and have a great day 👍
What is B-roll? :))
Hey Jubinell, B roll is basically when you cut away from the main video ( like the talking head part for a YT video or a character speaking I’m a movie) to some secondary but related footage - like shots of a product for YT or similar. Hope that helps:)
thanks for the awful humour! a pity about the face haha.. nah just jokes, great content man, this Zv1 is a little beast ey, I just picked up one the other day and just love it. Its a great little bcam for my A7siii! I did a side boy side comparison in good light the other day in HLG3 on both and man you'd be surprised how well the Zv1 holds up in dynamic range and picture quality
😆 Happy to help ZP, maybe if I make it to 10k subs one day I can get both a face and sense of humour transplant in a deal 🤞;)
That’s really interesting though. I was super impressed with the zv1 vs my a6400 and intend to compare to my A7c too soon but the a7s3 would be my dream camera right now so I’m definitely envious:)
Will be keeping my zv1 as the ultimate portable B camera regardless though 😊
How do you find the a7s3 stabilisation? I understand it has digital active steadyshot like the zv1 but you can control the crop more in camera - is that right?
As ever, thanks for watching and the great comment:)
@@dbvares8745 the crop in 4K active stabe is about the same from memory, there is no option to control the crop, not sure where you heard that. I would say the zv1 has slightly better stabe but I don't actually own any lens with stabe. One of these days I will start a RUclips channel similar to yours as ive been thinking about it for ages but am stuck in the procrastinatrix. A stupid kinda pointless video I have planned is A7siii vs Zv1. Have a thumbnail with me holding both cameras in each hand and put on that facial expression like someone just rammed something up my arse - you know the ones I mean right? na just jokes I can't stand those totally unoriginal thumbnails - ad nauseam
Ah that made me laugh 😆 You are preaching to the converted my friend! If there’s one thing that I find irritating it’s those exact thumbnails. I’m sure they perform well which is why they’ve become so popular but talk about lowest common denominator and insulting to the intelligence of your audience.
‘Omg that guy looks so surprised he must have something amazing to say’. Presumably there are people who think that before clicking.
Your anal trauma explanation would at least point to a genuinely uncommon video topic in fairness 😆
@@dbvares8745 I should do a behind the scenes video, "how i use a thumb to get a thumbnail"
Too good 😆 This entire concept needs to be a channel:)
You always have an unusual setting on that makes your head tall and skinny.
Would you shoot a wedding with this camera?
Hey TM, good question. In terms of quality and features I’d say it’s a solid option. The thing to watch out for is battery life: you get 60-75mins if 4K shooting per battery in my experience, you can get spare batteries inexpensively and keep an eye on when to swap them out or you can use the USB port to charge externally so I think the battery life can be managed with some awareness and planning.
You won’t get as many view options as an interchangeable lens camera, but the built in 24-70 gives a solid range of views and the ZV-1 is considerably better priced than most interchangeable lens camera and additional lenses.
So that’s the long answer with some thoughts: the short answer is yes, you could shoot a wedding on the zv1. Hope thet helps:) Let me know if you have any questions, consider subbing if you enjoyed and have a great day 💪
I thought the ZV-1 didn't go that low (f/1.8)
In this case, very unfortunate I can not better English (speak and listen). It is just enough for half and that is definitely too little to understand these things.🙄 Greetings from Switzerland🇨🇭
Hey 4Lakes and thank you for your comment. If writing is easier please ask any questions in the comments. You speak way better English than I speak French or German, but I can use Google translate to try and help:)
Anyway thank you for watching, if you like the content consider subscribing and have a great day (or Bon journée or Ausgezeichnecht tag if I remember a bit if french and German 😆) 👍
@@dbvares8745 Thank you for the offer with the questions. It would probably be a bit much questions😅 but I already have one or two that would help me. I will look at it tonight and let you know. Matts
Good info. Thanks!
Thanks GWG, happy to help and appreciate the nice feedback:) Consider subscribing if you like this sort of content and have an awesome day 👍
@@dbvares8745 You got it! Subbed! Always looking for knowledge when it comes to Sony cameras. I own a lot of them! Lol
Amazing! Thank you and welcome on board:) And yeah, I’m the same, love learning how to get the most out of my gear and got a bunch of similar content planned 👍 I’m running with just the ZV1 and A6400 right now waiting to see what full frame range looks like during next year - how about you?
@@dbvares8745 I also own a 6400, 6600, a7ii, AX100, AX33, ...on and on..lol I just got into this hobby a couple years ago and it’s a blast!
I mainly use my a7ii for photos, some light video work, b-roll mainly. I would love to have the a7iii, but the cost of the full frame lenses are what keeps me from that camera. I only own one lens for my a7ii right now, the 50mm f1.8, and it produces beautiful photos, but really sucks for video work. I’m going to stick with APSC for now, cause I’m only a couple lenses away from having everything I need. Now I just have to figure out how to get my footage uploaded to RUclips without it looking like garbage.... Over 60 videos in and m still scratching my head.. I think it has to do with the bit rate I’m uploading in. Still learning...
Man I love the mentality: still learning is exactly how I try to approach stuff and I think it keeps your mind open and the process fun 💪 I’m envious of your collection 😆
I got into videography and stuff back in July to try and have a positive focus amid all the pandemic restrictions and started the YT to share stuff as I got the hang of it-it’s a fun and rewarding thing even if it’s a bunch of work at times 😆
RE your footage, you may well be being harsh on yourself, we are often our toughest critics:)
If there’s a legit technical issue it may be a bit rate thing. In case helpful to reference: I use 4K, HLG on my Sony’s, edit in final cut, map into standard rec.709 colour range using rec.2020 colour space over ride then colour grade and sharpen a bit. I’ve been pleased with my results (at least for my current skill level haha) using that workflow and 8bit h264 encoding. It’s one of those areas where there’s so many variables it’s often a process of elimination to work out what might be upsetting things 👍