1981 Honda GL1100 Goldwing Part 3 | Heads & Timing Belt Install
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Here is part 3 of the GL1100 Naked Goldwing project. In this video I reinstall the heads, and install new Gates timing belts.
A vast wealth of information on working on these Goldwings can be found here:
ngwclub.com/fo...
Go check it out!
Check out my instagram for progress posts between videos!
/ dustydingusyt
Love your articulate descriptions and methodical analysis also keen sense of logical probabilities of possible failure
Thank you very much for watching and for the kind compliment!
The wrench trick worked for me also. I did this to my 1980 gl1100 couple of years ago. Great video. Hope you still have it in the wind !
Thanks for watching and commenting! It would be in the wind of there wasn't a foot of snow on the ground, but I did put over 2500 miles on during riding season.
@@DustyDingus yes that wind is probably a little too cold Lol
@@DustyDingus do you have a video of how you polished the covers ? They look really nice.
Yes I do! It's in the playlist with the rest of the Goldwing videos. About to make the drive home, I'll try to link to it when I get there
thanks for sharing your videos its was great
Thanks
This is where I am with my 82, following closely! Also, I had a HUGE mouse nest in my false tank! Little guy was still in there when I took it apart.
Dang mice getting in everywhere! I had seeds in my exhaust but thats it.
Thanks for watching! Please consider subscribing if you haven't already, I'll be doing the first start very soon!
@@DustyDingus I'm still waiting on parts. The alignment dowels were rusted, everything else is ready. BikeBandit has been "in process" for a month. Cancelled that order, started over with Partzilla.
I used partzilla for my parts also, didnt have an issue. Also got a quick shipment from CMSNL in the UK as they had parts that Partzilla did not.
@@DustyDingus I'm missing one gasket from the carburetor that I cannot find anywhere that's not part of another $50 kit.
Did you try searching eBay by the Honda part #?
Do what I do, strip the bolts and then back it off a bit!!!!! 😂 😂 😂
Nice work!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Dude, I love your vid's and subscribed a while back cause I think I may have to tear one all the way and am skeered of it. (LOL) While watching this one just thought I would mention an issue not many folks know about and that is dissimilar metal hysteresis. (kinda like corrosion but not exactly the same) Anyway there is an aluminum anti thread seize compound that would work a lot better for those head bolts (as well as any other interior engine bolts that may benefit from anti-seize application). I have both in my shop. Don't worry about it too much just trying to highlight a minor detail. I'm watching and learning more from you and others. Thanks for what you do.
Thank you🤗
Wonderful work..... can you please tell me how did the copper spray for the new head gasket workout? I am doing the exact same job and torn whether to use it. Some folk say you don't need to. Im curious to know how your 1100 is running now that it's been over two years?
I meticulously checked the head surfaces for flatness, but still went ahead with the spray for peace of mind. I've always looked at it as cheap insurance. 4202 miles since the rebuild and no issues. Other than needing ridden more, of course.
A long cable tie or 2 joined together will hold that belt Pulley to the Frame Tube.
awesome video you did great work on it for sure !! thanks for sharing some good info !!
Thank you for watching! I share because others have helped me
If you're into these old Goldwings the forum over at ngwclub.com is full of awesome people that are incredibly helpful.
Everytip.helps😁
With the belts on and adjusted. I don't understand why you would worry about warming it up and then rechecking the tension. Did Honda do that during assembly when it was new I wonder?
I couldn't tell you whether Honda did or not, but I follow those who know: ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3544
The guys on that site have worked on more Goldwings than I will probably ever get my hands on.
Found out why coca cola is often used with aluminum foil to clean rusty chrome. It contains Phophoric acid which is a natural rust remover. But is too diluted in coke to be truly effective, though it appears to work. It is actually the foil doing the work. I just picked up a quart to try it and the 85% concentrated food grade needs to be diluted but at full strength it cleans rusty gas tanks really good. Just have to do a flush and neutralize and re-flush. just did a CB750 Gas tank with it and it came out clean as a whistle. Sealed it with a Red sealer that is gasoline resistant..........we shall see.
I used to use the apple cider vinegar and metal bits method to clean tanks, but after using evaporust I will never go back. Yeah, it's more expensive but way more effective and you get multiple uses from the same fluid. I have never tried submerging a rusty chromed part in it though, now I'm curious
Hi. Great video and the time you take to share this to us . i wonder how you did with the piston rings? That cylinder with water in.... if the piston rings where rusted and were stucked? Did you check any of the piston rings on the other cylinders to?
I don't think the rings were stuck. I didn't do a compression test before I started taking things apart, but by the time I did the compression was only slightly less in that cylinder and came up when I put some oil in it (wet compression test). In order to actually see the piston rings I'd have to split the case halves and I wasn't about to do that.
Make sure you only use oem Honda head gaskets bro. I had a shit load of problems with aftermarket ones until I read an article of a bloke having same problem with his CX500. I went and got oem ones and never had a problem again...
Nice build tho... I'm in the middle of rebuilding 3.. A 75, 81 and an 83 Aspencade.
Are you on any of the wing forums? I'd be interested to check yours out
Well, too late I already installed the vesra gaskets lol time will tell but I heard good things about vesra.
I'm on NGWclub but I have not updated on there in a while, under the same screen name. You?
By the way, thank you for watching and commenting!
@@DustyDingus yeah I'm on there as well... Gc33. I tend to be on classic goldwing forum more. I've become good friends with pedrotq from ngw... Doesn't live far from me. I usually go up there for a couple or 3 cold "fizzies" with him but he's currently in hospital again for chemo... Hopefully last round for him.
I've got my own set challenges with 2 engines at present... Both with corrosion in bores. If you have a look on restos you'll see mine... My 75 is the Guinea pig.... As all my pistons appear fairly fresh I'm going to have the affected bore machined out and resleeved and re bored to current specs. I would have to go 4 sizes os if I rebore... I'm not keen on the wall thickness at that size.
A lot of guys have said can't re-sleeve... I have had it checked by one of our highly regarded motorcycle engineering guys here in Western Australia and guarantees his work. I'm considering doing a RUclips video of it so I I can share if it's successful... Or not.
One of the big piss off's tho is not being able to get aftermarket pistons and bearings... They are available for 750 fours... You'd think they'd be avail for wings...
As for your head gasket... I just bought a full engine gasket set from randakks and it has vesrah gaskets... So if using them... My experience was a long time ago so hopefully materials and technology has improved.
I got 4 oem gaskets from sabre cycles. Here in Australia they want $150 per gasket. I got 4 landed here for just under $200 plus some other goodies I needed and didn't "need" but cost the same shipping...
I like the way your covers came up. I cannot get those scotch brite wheels here in Australia.... Been hunting them...
I just use maroon scotch brite pads by hand with brasso and then on to the buffer with brown tripoli on a stitched buff
@@DustyDingus I'll give those a go... I got a heap of the little rotary tool ones for my dremel. I used those on my Aspencade heads. If you check out my resto thread you'll see that come up nice. Kind of ported and polished...
whatd you all use to polish up all the head parts, valve covers, rockers, valve heads, etc? They look nice! ALso whatd you use to clean the cylniders?
Valve covers, intakes, timing covers were all the same method of aluminum polishing I covered in another video; brasso&maroon scotchbrite followed with brown tripoli compound on a stitched buff, and then white polishing compound on a loose leaf buff.
Didn't do anything to rockers but the valve heads were wire brushed because they are steel. They were lapped afterwards.
Cylinders are steel, light passes with scotchbrite and WD40.
Head gasket surfaces, oven cleaner without muriatic acid in it and razor blades held at 90 degrees, brake clean before install.
@@DustyDingus lol I spoke too soon I actually just finished watching that video. This is a great method and the parts look great. Btw your videos are so informative, ive already learned a ton just by watching them for the past 3 hours, and the level of detail and quality are exactly what im planning on doing on mine. Great stuff man keep em comin!
Congratulations for the video !. Could you write me the tightening torques?
Best way for me to give you all the information you need is to send me an email at dustydingusyt@gmail.com
5.31.21. @ 8:07 mark…….you don’t have to pull the head off to install that water pipe⚠️ just pull the 90° elbow❗️
I know that but I had heard the gasket on that joint was a royal pain to get off, and the new ones often leak, so I opted not to disturb it.
@@DustyDingus 5.31.21. I usually buy Honda®️OEM parts especially head gaskets……just do a thorough cleaning of the surfaces. Also I replace all o-rings✅
Thanks for watching!
How do you know tell if you've put the camshaft upside down? I noticed there's a tiny arrow on the shaft iteself. Which direction should this be pointing?
I'm not sure if the little arrow is important. The camshafts are keyed on the timing sprocket end, and the right is longer due to the fuel pump lobe and tach drive. The crucial part is to get the timing sprockets themselves on correctly and then rotate to align timing marks. You'll know if they're on wrong, belts wont line up. Rotate crank 180 degrees off of TDC so you can rotate cams without fear of valves hitting pistons.
The cams shafts also have left or right on them. But pretty easy as one has the fuel pump drive on it.
Why not simply remove the coolant pipe elbow (two bolts) to install the tube?
I didn't want to have to clean 2 more gasket surfaces and had heard they often leak when replaced with non OEM gaskets in addition to the gaskets being very difficult to remove.
Of course I could be wrong, but then again it is done already and running.
I was going to ask same question... Nah they don't as long as they are prepped well like anything else..
How much was the cylinder head tightening?
It's in the repair manual, I can't remember 😕
@@DustyDingus ok.... thanks You
@@bucanerocamacho939040 ft/lbs
Hi can you send me a link or info on were you got your rebuild motor parts please thanks.
OMG yes I concur. We all need help sometimes.
When you say 360 degrees... don’t you mean 180 degrees? Or 540 degrees?
Only reason I ask is because I see the “R” move from screen left to to screen right. Love your help in my own goldwing.
One full rotation of crank (360) should be a half rotation (180) of the camshaft.
I hope this clears things up but I will have to watch again to see the exact moment you're talking about and unfortunately I'm at work right now. I can confirm in about an hour.
Thanks for responding!!! I didn’t even think you would!
So how do you feel about me paying you to just FaceTime/zoom with me to guide me through the process.... seriously I will Venmo you money to just help guide me. You take no responsibility, just guide me. I don’t want to F it up.
Anyways, what does the rotation actually doing to the tensioner springs? Thanks bro!
My offer still stands.
I try to respond as much as I can, sometimes a few slip through. I have zoom and venmo so I would be happy to help. Email me dustydingusyt@gmail.com and we can get something set up.
So on that right side cam belt (screen left), when installing it you have to hold it in place because it still has some rotational force from the valve springs. Install belt, remove holding wrench, tighten tensioner bolts, and then when rotated 180 (360 at the crank) you should no longer have any valve springs tension on the cam shaft. This also allows the belt to "settle" a bit. Simply loosen the tensioner bolts and then tighten them back down. The belt should now be perfectly tensioned. Let the springs do the work, don't push the tension roller against the belt to try making it tighter. That's why it is important to use new springs. Mine were rusty and stretched.
The "shop talk" page at NGW Club .com has a great guide, I used that and the manuals (clymer and honda) to make sure I was getting this right.
How did you know what to set the left side of the bike to
All of the timing marks have to line up. I like the guides on ngwclub.com but a clymer manual works too
@@DustyDingus so we cylinder one is at top dead center what position will cylinder 2 be in
BDC, ready to begin exhaust stroke. 1&3 on the right with 1 in front, 2 and 4 on left with 2 in front. 1-3-4-2 firing order. With crank at TDC-1 mark, the left side cam pulley has an arrow that should point towards the left side of the bike and the word "UP" should be upright.
@@DustyDingus what about the position of the 2-4 pulley when 1-3 is at the top
That's what I just told you about. 1&3 are on the right side of the bike, 2&4 are on the left. Each cam pulley has 2 marks, UP and an arrow. On the left it will point out towards the left side of the bike, on the right it will point out towards the right side of the bike. Keep in mind, they're the same pulley, and one is flipped over during install. Look around the center of the pulley where it mounts to the shaft. One side is flatter, the other is embossed basically. On the left side the flat side faces out, on the right the embossed side faces out. With the crank at TDC-1, both cam pulleys should have arrows pointing out and UP pointing up.
You’re in terrible company. The likes of all of us.
Gaskacinch pronounced gaskasinch
Yes lol someone caught me on this already I think. I never knew lol