Fanatec DD1 & Podium Hub 2021 Review
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
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My review of the Fanatec DD1 direct drive wheel base and Podium Hub.
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Finally someone who reminds everyone "What is real and what is simulation!" These companies are doing amazing things for us to have fun. Great review mate.
Thanks mate! :)
We need the video of you smashing up curbs in the work van, would no doubt be absolute gold 😂
I actually tried but couldn't hold my phone steady enough! lol
Just ordered some V3 pedals using your link, keep up the good work, enjoy all your vids on everything from sim racing to VR to racing boot reviews!
Awesome, thank you!
Thx, again a nice and realistic review. Just ordered mine this week, together with the v3 pedals. Upgrading from csl-elite. Brake-kit is in back-order, so I hope I will be receiving everything soon and both installing all and using it will be a good experience. Keep up the good work and have doing so!
Thanks for review! Was watching this in a night half asleep as it was a must to see. I can say, I believe fanatec is head above it’s competitors in console market. I know no other manufacturers what produces direct drive wheel for consoles. Correct if I’m wrong. It has unique amazing force feedback tuning software so you can adjust the feeling for your liking. To use software Microsoft Windows is required. It works only on windows what sucks, wish I could use it on imac, but I’ll figure it out. I’m coming from desk mounted Thrustmaster T300 Ferrari F599xx alcantara (and it’s really good wheel) to Fanatec DD1 PS4 with Sim Lab P1-X rig set up and I can say it’s night and day difference. It’s like jumping from soviet built ZAZ Zaporozhets to german bmw. My dad had ZAZ 966 and I was honoured to drive one so I know what I’m talking about! Night and day difference!
One of the reasons I went with the DD2 package over the DD1 (aside from the longer warranty) was because I wanted the emergency stop module. Not because I expected an emergency, but because it includes a remote power button so you don’t have to reach behind the wheelbase. I can recommend that for convenience alone.
you can get a power button seperately, you can also if you ordering in the uk pay to extend your warranty from 3 years to 5 years and with both of those the DD1 still comes in a fair bit under a DD2. the advantage of the DD2 is the extra 5nm peak torque most people don't use and the carbon panels. and ofcourse the satisfaction of knowing you have the highest end product they make which to some people is worth the extra money.
@@jinx20001 That’s a good call out for people to know. When I ordered mine about 18 mo ago (and in the US) the DD2 worked out to be the same total cost for warranty and remote power button.
DD1 also supports the emergency stop button or am I wrong?
Nice review mate, one bit of advice I can give from one DD owner to another is get some silicone grease on that nice gold hub and a bit over the rubber aswell... I owned my DD1 for 3 months and took my wheel off around 10 to 15 times and the hub was a mess, paint flaking off, scratches etc.
Fanatec actually agreed with me that it was too worn for the time I had it and they replaced it on warranty (the hub) free of charge and sent me a diagram of where I should ideally put some silicone grease to reduce metal on metal contact. Besides that I would recommend using the supplied securing bolt aswell, takes a lot of movement out of the quick release and with the addition of the grease makes the wheelbase nice and quiet aswell no rattles.
I know you commented 3 months ago but do you have the diagram for the grease? Also, my longer securing bolt will not go into the hub and idk why, I pull the QR back and then try and it just doesn't go in. The hole for it is more like () as opposed to a circle so I'm not sure?
@@Hendrycks imgur.com/a/wbIuRUt?third_party=1#_=_
here is the image fanatec sent me for the grease guide.
it sounds to me like you are not pushing the quick release all the way on, if its difficult to push on confidently because you are worried its too tight just use a bit of saliva on the rubber for now or grease if you have some (must be silicone grease not lithium) and the wheel and quick release should slide on easier, the shape of the hole being like this () would tell me you need to push it on further and the whole will become a complete circle ready for the bolt.
please don't force the wheel on because of those pesky pins but you certainly do need to push it on hard, as long as you are put the wheel on the correct way the pins should automatically line up correctly and be fine.
hope that helps. let me know.
@@jinx20001 Thanks, I took the wheel off for the first time in a while and it was that I had squished the rubber so tight that the area with the hole was being squished into an oblong shape so I got the screw on now!
Waiting for that Fanatec CSL DD review Karl!! Hopefully you can grab it earlier than others!
Should be a couple of weeks I think mate! :)
hello Karl,
you score a point at the end of the video with the story of the van and the Fiesta 😎.
Strangely, it's kind of this desire that people have to want a return to the center of the wheel, whereas instead, you have to take care of the alignment of the tires with the road (at low speed, and at high speed, with curves, downhill and uphill).
No IRL car has a steering wheel that returns to the center when stationary (and even a slight flutter exists due to the motorization of the steering wheel).
Some people think that because the steering wheel goes crazy and moves in all directions, breaking your wrists, is a sign of a very good ffb, while whatever the power in Nm, it is simply the software that has lost its "mind".
Some game software are better than others, but this parameter to adjust this steering wheel feedback is normally to be taken into account seriously when everyone wants to adjust the ratio "force to put in the arms to hold the wheel VS as much as possible. information for handling sensations ( I mean..."la tenue de route." ).
Maybe there are some drifter videos to take into account ......... ok, there are exaggerations of "fluidity", but the best ones understand the behavior of their car and the tires. the physics of the grip and the moment of loss of grip.I think it's a mistake to believe that because they are drifter they can't help make our settings in Dirt Rally and Assetto Corsa ... for example.
As always...it was a good vidéo to watch...always a pleasure.
Sorry for my poor english
The only reason I was set to choose the Fanatec DD over Simucube was to save precious USB ports. If I can't do that, there's zero upsides to the Fanatec. Thanks for the heads up! You just saved me a lot of money.
I've since cleaned my shifter and it's all working sweet though the DD1 base! :)
Good to see you listened and got a proper wheel base. Just waiting for you to start uploading track racing content now 😉
It’s not weird, Buddy 🤣Just practice and you’ll soon be able to find that soft switch every time. It can be in slightly different places depending on the model, but you’ll adapt! 😆 ... Hard switches are easier to find but then again not everyone is into those 😂
But seriously that EMI issue is a bummer. I wonder if putting a ferrite lump on the cable would help or possibly (and obnoxiously) wrapping the base of the shifter in something like foil (prob something ferrous would work best to make a faraday cage - copper foil must the a thing right?)
Ahhhh the Sinclair ZX shirt is epic! Love it... great channel great content!
Thanks! :)
Cheers as always man :)
No worries!
Great video (as always!). More than just a hardware review, with much added & useful information!
Couple of things: 1) If there is a 'torque key' to enable high torque mode, but the wheel has its FFB dialed down; couldn't you just remove the torque key and leave the FFB on high? Is there a difference to these two approaches?
2) Interesting about your real-life testing of the Fiesta; I was wondering about that, and I have my (wooden) seat platform suspended on rubber vibration dampeners with two 50W BTS-1 bass shakers mounted directly under the seat's rails, and thus have more feedback in my seat than in my Fanatec CSL Elite steering wheel.
Good stuff. 👍👍👍
Glad your so positive about your wheel I got a DD podium f1 wheel only worked for 2 days then it broke I’ve had to sent it back takes from start to finish 5 or 6 weeks with broken wheel !! Gutted but glad you rate the wheel when it works !!! Good job I had my old wheel that’s all I would say ....... disappointing after laying out just under £2400 on pedals and wheel.. the pedals are a nice ornament! Any chance on your wheel base settings so when I get it back I’m not messing about too much setting it up. Great review as usual 👌👌👌
Sorry to hear this mate. Seriously makes me even happier that i went with simucube. Fanatec seem too hit and miss given the money outlay. Hope you get a replacement soon
Karl, Your reach around's are legendary lol 😂
Any chance of you testing your new toy down the Nordschleife in Assetto Corsa for us?
I use to offroad with my Ford Raptor, you can believe me the steering wheel doesnt give a fuck about how ruined/dusty/grassy the road is. This is the first video where someone mentions that FFB is not meant to simulate shit, it just gives you a fake feedback through the wheel of what the forces on the car would be. 5 stars mate.
Awesome video fella - excellent detail. Off the cuff as well 💥
Glad you enjoyed it
I went from a G29 to a CSL Elite and then to the DD2. The first things that I noticed on a DD2 was the smoothness, the power and the clarity of details, compared to the CSL Elite. When you go over kerbs, my whole rig shakes and vibrates and I love that haptic sensation. Then after fiddling you find you have to turn all damping off in game and on the wheel and everything feels more authentic and natural. I’d recommended the DD2 over the DD1, because you get the five year warranty and you get a separate on off button, which you can attach to your rig next to the base. If you have the money and love sim racing, all DD wheels are amazing and worth the money.
Can I ask was going from the G29 to the CSL Elite like going from DVD to BluRay and the CSL Elite to the DD2 like going from BluRay to 4K? As in not such a noticeable leap? (I ask that knowing that buyers remorse might work against objectivity)
@@Space-O-2001 if you buy the elite kit with the load cell pedal you will notice a huge overall difference. Your lap times will drop a lot mainly due to the load cell pedal and you will find you are more consistent too. The FFB in the elite blew my mind compared to the g29. Brakes locking up, going over kerbs, no more weird rattling noises or clunking, subtle details and being able to catch the car too. The P1 rim that comes with the elite is nice, but once you treat yourself to one of their premium metal rims you will get even more detail. If you love sim racing and have made the decision that it’s a hobby you really want to get into, then for me the csl elite is an amazing upgrade and worth every penny. I bought my g29 for £170 then sold it for £125 on ebay and I put that towards the mclaren rim which is an incredible rim especially it’s low price. You will notice a huge difference in ffb details, smoothness and it will put a huge smile on your face. The load cell pedal is key in getting the overall next step up via the elite bundle. Enjoy
Going to the DD2 was the best experience I’ve had. The sheer power, smoothness and clarity I can’t put into words. For RF2 it’s set on 22% that’s how powerful it is, you turn off all damping and the base shakes my whole rig when going over kerbs, especially in raceroom. If you want to go all in buy the DD2. I loved the g29 but wasn’t sure that I loved sim racing enough to buy a dd wheel
So I bought the elite. After two years with the elite I decided I loved sim racing enough and had time to play lots to justify the dd2. It’s worth every penny and so easy to set up which was a key point for me and the fanatec eco system is great too.
@@SIMRIG412 why are some sim racers absolute tools? The fanatec dd’s aren’t trash. I looked at simucube but there were some connectivity issues with ams2 and on some updates with RF2 as well. There were simucube groups on the forums of each game and their comments put me off. Fanatec works with all the sims and that’s why I chose fanatec, because people posting on forums about ffb loss after updates with simucube. I want convenience and no fiddling and that was the factor that made me stay in the fanatec eco system. All dd’s are amazing, don’t be one of those sim racers who has severe tribalism syndrome and only plays one sim and slags off all brands that they don’t own. If you have the money to buy any dd, it doesn’t matter which brand you buy because they are all awesome!
I bought a DD1 from digital motorsport after watching one of your previous video where you plugged DM.
My DD1 was faulty straight out the box and would make a creaking and clacking noise and feel when turning left.
Once point I would say is to be aware of is if your in the UK and you do buy from DM and your as unlucky as me and get a faulty product.
You will have to send it back to DM in Ireland then they will have to send it to Fanatec in Germany!
However if you buy direct from Fanatec, they now have a uk service centre in London.resolving any after sales issue quickly.
However Fanatec will not accept products purchased from their resellers and will tell you to contact the seller and go through their process which seem stupid consider it’s going back to them the manufacturer.
Knowing what I know now I should of play it safe and brought directly from Fanatec.
You will wait a bit longer for deliver but at least this way your getting the best after sale service as you don’t have to wait for you package to travel all round Europe just to get it inspected and tested.
I don’t see why fanatec don’t accept products from their reseller in the uk for example where they have a service center. It Would keep costs down for everyone and a quicker turned around for the customer, it would make sense.
2-3 weeks in and over a grand down and still don’t have a wheel,fingers crossed it get resolved soon.
Just thought I’d share my experience as a buyer so others are aware of the pros and cons.
Not a dig a DM as they have been very helpful trying to resolve the issue but I don’t think the after sales process is very efficient.
Yeah that is very weird of Fanatec, no reason to do that, in fact hold on... you register your warranty on the Fanatec website after purchase and it's transferable just using your invoice if you sell it on so it shouldn't matter where you bought it?!
@@KarlGosling
Yeah that’s exactly what I thought, I upgraded from a csl elite ,I showed the buyer the warranty on the fanatec website to prove, great tool and idea for second hand market.
So yeah as soon as I got my DD1 from DM I registered it on my fanatec account, I notice it doesn’t show the picture compared to orders place directly with them. But it registered.
However when I contacted fanatec they just told me to go back to the seller, doesn’t make any sense.
@@michaelwilson8188 Quite often companies have a different procedure for DoA vs repair, e.g. because your unit is DoA they need to send you a brand new replacement, whereas most warranties reserve the right to send you refurb units or repair your unit with refurb parts, keeping the entire supply chain separated for these reasons is easier for logistics and also for tracking failures to understand how to optimise your production process in future, so yes very annoying, but also very common in the tech industry at least.
Reading this makes my SC Pro choice much less daunting. Hope you get your base back soon
Reach around - you crack me up!!!
great video man 😀
Glad you enjoyed!
Omg, Sinclair. I had one of ZX Spectrums, 48k. Also remember ZX80 and ZX81. People managed with 1kb of memory.
Thanks for review! Where can i buy a t-shirt? : )
I had the issue with my SQ 1.5 shifter connected to both USB and my CSW V2.5. 2old4forza had a fix that worked. Small bit of electrical tape under the encoder board to separate the board from the metal inside the shifter. Easy to do and no missed shifts for a year and a half now (aside from bad clutch work during heel-toe LOL).
Just a thought for your shifter interference issue. You could try wrapping the wire round a ferrite core say three times which will help with emi. Or you can get usb noise reducers, although probably a bit more expensive.
I'm pretty sure that if you purchased the regular DD1 alone it is not compatible with the "Play Station console.
Only the DD1 F1 PlayStation set is compatible with the Play Station console. (Unless your distributor sold you a Play Station DD1 without the F1 steering wheel.) It may be compatible with an X Box system if you have a Fanatec steering wheel that is compatible with the X Box console.
Correct yes.
Hey man.. just a thought - since their shifters dont have ferite chokes on and ur on a carpet, isolated from concrete floor, that is what helps build up the el.static.. especialy if youre wearing synthetics might show even more as you rub agains the seat and build up even more..
One solution would be to somehow groumd the damn thing before it causes some extra damage to the base - allthough this should not happen as the base is supposably grounded when its plugged in the socket.
Maybe if u connect some wire fro. The housin to the rig so it just tranfers the static as it builds up or maybe try moving the whole rig to a non carpet place.. also geting it on some rubber might also help but i dont understand how its that hard to put some antistatic or ferite chokes on.. c mon fanatec
Yeah I agree mate, I might have a play around to see what I can do! :)
Another awesome video Karl! The big question...are you any quicker? How much if at all have your stage times come down?
No, it makes no difference at all.
some find it easier than others to find to spot mate 🤞 Great video again and so detailed for the "normal" people who want to spend abit more.
Thanks 👍
Great video. Good to know about the shifter issue you had.
My playseat challenge will not take a DD1 😁 so having to wait for fanatec to restock the csl elite, good review Karl and something to keep in mind if I what to up grade at a later date. 👍
I stuck a DD1 on my ridiculously reinforced challenge and have no ragrets!!
@@bunchamp85 thanks Barry that's good to know, I'll have to save a bit more then 🙄😀
@SimRacingNerd csl DD ordered and have a new rig ( GT omega titan) 😁
@SimRacingNerd I hope so, just a bugger that we have to wait till September/October
@SimRacingNerd oh 🙄
real race car steering rack is not dictated by what the driver wants, but by what the engineers were willing/able to put in the car given the constraints. in a group C race car where there's no steering assist and loads of downforce at speed 20Nm is actually not enough to fully emulate the forces. So while, yes for us wimps/simracers it's more than enough, to really simulate all proper race cars with non assisted racks I'd say 30Nm is needed, especially when you consider edge cases like the compression in Eau Rouge at Spa where the wheel will get super heavy in a high speed high downforce racecar. anyways, thx for the review
Yes mate thats basically what I said, unless you trying to specifically simulate non PAS cars it's more than enough :)
But It's not only dictated by the engineers, drivers (depending on the discipline) have an input as to what speed the rack is and how much assistance they have.
@@KarlGosling Yeah you right, that's how it's done nowadays basically, cause almost all racecars are power assisted. I was referring more to historic racecars since this is where the real value in simracing is IMO. Great review though. BTW I would advise to use more sim titles when testing a wheel. The rally games due to the nature of rallying are not the best to judge FFB, since when intead of chasing ideal slip angle you're fully sideways all the nuance is out the window, especially on gravel.
Hi Karl.. does the DD1 fit the NLR F-GT Lite.. i'm thinkin of investing in 1 for my PS4 Console... thanks in advance!! :) love your reviews!!
Hmm it may fit but I wouldn't recommend it, something like the upcoming CSL DD would be better suited IMO mate.
@@KarlGosling ok thanks for the word advice Karl.. :)
thx for the review Karl i used the guys at Digital Motorsport and they looked after me sweet... :) thx for the heads up subbed of course
About to order one, perfect timing
Mate, you kill me. Sanitary products, reach around! Ha. Made my day!
That milling is beautiful.
Aahaha reach around!! Im lovin mine too Karlos!
Phil
🎉
Solid as always.
You might like this technical challenge. I saw a guy that was able to essentially add a passenger seat to VR rally racing. They both were able to be in the virtual car together and he could even look over to see them while wearing a headset. All this despite pretty much every racing game is only designed to be a local solo experience. Wish I could find the youtube video. It was definitely a setup that was hacked together in 24hrs.
Wow haha
Ohhhh thats interesting!!
@@KarlGosling I can think of a easy way to do this but I believe it was done differently and in more complex way. >> Set up two real seats next to eachother in the same position of the virtual car. One person is in VR while the other watches on screen ( triple screen even better ). Then using the new feature in v.28 that let's you draw out a space normally to show where your keyboard is in the real world in VR - instead repurpose it to show who is sitting next to you. Should be super fun as you will be able to see the other person's reaction on their face as you jump them over bumps. You could even swap views/seats.
For the price you pay and the power output of a Podium dd wheel. Flex in the parts that hold the steering wheel to the motor shouldn’t even be a debate or a concern.
my dd2 has no flex with my mclaren gt3 v2 wheel
@@jordancastro5700 Well, I had a DD2 from about launch till a month ago. I had 3 Podium Hubs, V1 McLaren wheel, Formula Carbon and BMW GT2 wheel. All except the older Formula Carbon and BMW wheel had tons of flex. I don’t mean yanking on the wheel like a gorilla either. You could do it with 4 fingers side to side. It was pathetic.
Now I have a SC2 Pro with HRS XeroPlay QR system and I don’t care how hard you yank on the wheel. Theres no flex, no play. You’d bend the steering wheel before you could make it flex probably.
Not only that but there’s zero resistance when swapping wheels. It was a struggle swapping wheels with the Podium. Again...pathetic.
This is why they have a new QR system coming. The ClubSport/CSL QR system on a $1000+ 20+ NM wheel base is a joke. It’s fantastic for its intended product line though.
Wonder if you put some ferrite cores on the shifter cable if it would help with the EMI?
Don't want to come across as a fan boy here, but I have owned a DD2 and then moved on to Simucube 2 Pro and I can only explain it as moving from a luxury piece of equipment to a perfect piece of equipment, you think you have the best............but you haven't.
Tuning makes an amazing amount of difference to the DD1, as does having the latest FW.
@@JSmith73 Agreed, in the 12 months I owned mine the DD2 came on leaps and bounds with firmware updates, but its still not close.......yet.
Its like the flex on the wheel side to the base side everybody mentions, I never thought I had flex on my DD2 until I tried the Simucube, and then you realise you did, there is definitely FFB lose in the DD1/DD2 because of the plug style connection.
The Simucube just feels more like a car, which is what we are all after.....right?
Not the first time I read or ear similar comment, and I don't get how lenient some comments are towards Fanatec.
When you spend 3 times, or more, the budget of a mid range consumer wheel (SCL Elite or like) and you get magnetic cogging (I get it there is no cog so it's not physical coging, but as long as you are feeling is uneven force needed to make the wheel turn, that is magnetic cogging nonetheless) or flex in the quick release, I think it is not acceptable.
And making this only minor gripes is just being DD snob "I'm in the DD club" and taking care of second hand market resell value.
I know my consumer wheel is far from DD world and I will upgrade at some point, but when on the edge of spending 2k on a DD (because wheel rim + DD wheel base gets you in that ballpark) you expect nothing but the best experience with literally 0 frustration.
I know I’m 1 year late, but if you have the money, would you still get the DD1 over the DD Pro?
It's a tough one as I don't run very heavy FFB, so really it's down to personal preference.... but probably yes.
@@KarlGosling I guess I'll just make the leap of faith into the DD1, rather just get it than regreting not having the extra torque. Thanks again! Love your videos by the way
22:00 I did the same thing when I got my VRS. My car is lowered with medium-hard dampers so not a soft car. I was hoping to use that as a baseline for setting up my VRS and I ended up being really disappointed lol. The only thing I felt through my steering wheel and seat was potholes. 90% of the "road texture" I thought I felt isn't actually road texture, it's G forces. They were false memories lol. So really I'm using the extra strength in DD to compensate for lack of G forces.
It's the best we can do isn't it! :)
Does DD1 actually recognize Podium Hub? Mine doesn't.
Of course mate, something not quite right with your DD1 or Hub maybe?
@@KarlGosling Seeing similar reports by other user RMAing back to Fanatec. Also since the hub is not detected can't even use the base.
Has it changed the way you drive? By this I mean did you have to change your driving style when you started using this or is it still the same as your other wheels?
No I drive exactly the same, just feels much more realistic.
Sanitary product hahahha awesome review mate!
Reach Around For A DD1 , Lol
The hub length thing is a bit of a pain, since the motor itself is also quite long. I had to move my screen back a bit and change my FOV. (The screen is above the motor housing, but the thing the screen mounts on has stuff under it, sadly. Might get a new stand.)
The length of this thing is why I can't buy one. It would trash my FOV by several degrees. I'll have to wait for a much shallower DD wheel or to be honest I'm tempted to go for the Clubsport v2.5 and invest more in higher quality pedals than I would otherwise have done.
@@Daz555Daz What we need is sim racing monitors that are both 32:9 and have a hole for the wheel base. :D :D :D I guess it isn't that far fetched given phone screens now have notches.
Hi , Mr. Gosling ... I am just watching your video about the DD1 on 17th of April ... I am using a Fanatec CSW base for few years but I got a problem about my shifter H setting ... can't make it in the right way ... can I insert the shifter directly in to my PC? I am using CSW Base ... Fanatec pedal ... Fanatec shifter ... Fanatec handbrake ... Fanatec wheels too ... hope you can help me out ... thank you ... 😊
Yes you can mate, just plug it into a USB port.
So curious how that thing would feel on a playseat challenge I read random forums and some people swear it is fine lol I say just try it for fun!!! Keep it up man 🤙
I mean it would work... you'd just get a fair bit of wobble and flex thats all :)
Can you review the 'next level racing challenger' cockpit please? 😁
I'll take a a look mate.
I pronounce it 'logitech'
i love racing and fps games... what did you say? fnatic? fanatec? :D
So you have to reach around from behind to hit that’s hard to find button to turn it on ? That’s why you need to disable the torque....just in case you risk getting your wrist broken from hitting the wrong thing. Never had a DD wheel, but I know about these things....🙄
Free motion perfect haha
How you enable the torque without any butto a on the wheel?!! I’m in trouble with my new NASCAR wheel 👀👀👀
Turn it 90 degrees at power up.
@@KarlGosling thanks mate!!!!
First!
whats changed or new about the dd1?
you should have added that they announced a new shaft and QR for the dd1 (Q2 2021) Happy racing!
i say fan-a-tech because i live in the US and there is an esports team known as fnatic pronounced fan-nat-ick
Intro reminded me of Asus doing a 2 minute video of some women just constantly pronouncing their name correctly.
lol :)
Did you not try calibrating or rekeying yer shifter
Obviously, first thing I did.
You need to make sure that all that stuff is well grounded or you'll get that mis shifting and general weirdness. Best way to go about that is make sure everything metal is connected and the earth your rig. Most of that EMI is coming from the direct drive motor by it's nature. @@UCSnP7yd5lIbrLW_nTqAc9xA Best of luck
how is the dd on electricity?
No idea mate sorry.
i call it FAN A TEC but i am norwegian so its weird to pronounce it like finatic
Captain Jack Sparrow was not Norwegian.... Fanatec is not pronounced Fan a tec! lol
@@KarlGosling i will still call it fan a tec andu cant change my mind
It's just the accent. I say 'Fanatech'
Update the firmware. makes a massive difference. If my Fanatec gear plays up I know there is an update for the gear. there are issues but 9 times out of 10 it is a firmware update.. However you could have faulty gear cos that will normally solve most issues. If you have a fanatec wheel there is a button on wheel which activates and approves high torque mode.
I said in the video I updated the firmware in the DD1, there is no firmware for the shifter, it's just a very common problem.
All good mate. Sorry must have missed that. So far I have had no issues with mine. Can be a bit notchy but that goes away in the heat of a race n it can start to do wierd things when an update is available. Thats when I know an update is out. When my wheel starts to play up.
For sim racers. Fanatec wheel is all about realism, not fast lap times. Fanatec wheel vs G29 with load cell pedals. G29 will put in faster lap times. Fast laps time is all about pedal control. the G29's FFB lets you feel everything you need to, especially in F1. Master F1 and your next real job will be racing for Mclaren, not flipping burgers at McDonalds.
They call themselves fanatec not fanatic😅 you probably recheck
Go watch a video from the Fanatec CEO on their own channel... then come back and apologise.
@@KarlGosling sorry about my previous message you are right, they really need come out and be like we are this stop calling us that. Sorry again
Also you probably should’t be like haha I’m right in the beginning of review video this was the first video I watched pulling something like that doesn’t want any more of your content, just thought you should know
@@KarlGosling I’m not sorry grow up
Do you have a contact email? I have a product id like to send you for your thoughts. Thanks
On my "About" page.