Are the FANATEC DD1 & DD2 STILL WORTH IT in 2023?
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- It's been over 2 years now since we originally reviewed the Fanatec Podium DD1 & DD2 Direct Drive Wheelbases. Fanatec has worked hard in the time since to improve the user experience, not only in terms of ease of use and setup, but also the driving experience.
So let's dive back in and see how things have evolved for the Fanatec DD1 & DD2.
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#iracing #simracing #f3
TIME STAMPS:
Intro - 0:00
Updating Firmware - 1:00
What's new in the Software - 5:53
How has the Driving Experience Improved - 11:58
Conclusions - 25:30
#Fanatec #dd1 #dd2 
Игры
Quick note on “Auto Setup”. Fanatec have advised that this currently only works for Raceroom. For other games it runs default settings. Good to see that the default out of the box settings feel pretty good across most sims now. That certainly wasn’t the case when we originally reviewed these bases.
thanks alot for that video, when we use the fanalab recommended settings, will fanalab always overwrite my Settings of setUp 1 of my wheel?
@@BBRacing_oNE1 it overwrites the current selected setup so if you have saved on set 1 just select set 2 in fanalab prior to loading the settings u want
@@BBRacing_oNE1 yes
BTW I didnt see you cover this but there is also another feature in Fanalab under Profiles where it will detect and auto load FFB profiles per car. You need to create the profile or get it from somewhere, but after selecting the specific car, it auto recognizes and works very well. I believe this is different than auto setup. Maurice on the Fanatec formus created a huge FFB pack with most cars from many of the different sims. I have been using it and it transformed how my CSL DD feels.
A Great review Will, thx a lot from a very happy DD1 owner :)
Could you please post your final settings for ACC/Fanalab, after the update, that would be very much apperciated :D
Excellent review. As a DD1 owner I totally agree on the refinement towards the current firmware update. Before I had a hard time to find a good setup, that’s all gone, now the feeling is smooth, strong and lively. I would buy the DD1 again at any time, hands down.
The cogging after few minutes of use bothers me a bit but not a deal breaker.
@@truejayohwhat’s this? Looking at buying one and haven’t come across that yet
Thank you will!!!! I asked for an update a while back, im glad that you listen to your community. Great video and thank you again!
This is why I love DD wheelbases. The experience just keeps getting updates and improved!
Brilliant, fully objective update - am impressed as always by your ability to call things like they are rather than sugarcoat or skip over any negatives. Speaking as a DD1 owner I agree with everything you've said here.
Glad I went DD2. I believed they were the same almost. But if your feeling torque ripple when driving, then I can only recommend people go DD2.
The setups through fanalab are superb now they are car specific, I've not once had to mess around with it. My only tweak is taking FEI down to around 20-40
lmao I was JUST googling this. Thanks for the timely upload!
I’ve had it for a year and didn’t know about these setting or updates! Thanks
Well conveyed Sir, thank you. Awesome as always. Working well here.
Multiplatform support keeps them in the frame i feel. The fact the dd pro supports all 3 major platforms sets it apart.
Thanks Will, I've just done the driver and firmware updates, I hadn't touched them since 2021 and honestly, the difference was so noticeable immediately. I've ummed and arred about changing but I really don't know whether I'd find it good value to do so. Great video and well worth the 10 minutes spent to update it all. Thanks again. :)
RE the quick release. I got the 3D printed O Ring replacement and honestly I do not notice any play in it whatsoever. Well worth buying for anyone that hasn't done so yet.
Yeah I'm still very happy with my Dd1 after 3 years and feel the latest updates are great. I see no reason to change.
We have been waiting for this video for a long time.
@Boosted Media The best feature not mentioned in your review with the new Beta drivers is it can detect the cars in multiple sims and switch to that profile. You can add your own profiles and assign cars to that profile.
This was a huge improvement, something I've desired for a long time.
Maurice's cars profile ❤
Thanks for the updated review! I came from a csw 2.5 to dd1 a couple of months ago, Definitely noticed that ripple effect but once you're racing or drifting its not noticeable at all for me. I can't speak for how it felt prior to their firmware rewrite but I've heard it was a big improvement. 100% agree about the QR1 system being outdated and designed for belt wheels. Looking forward to the QR2 system i have high hopes for it coming this year as we saw it in videos at that sim racing expo.
@Mike Griggs If you have CSW 2.5 and not CSL, the torque that moza has to offer is basically the same. I would suggest if you are planing to actually upgrade and not sidegrade, to invest in a VRS or at least Simagic Alpha if not Alpha Ultimate. I have upgraded from CSW 2.5 to a SC2 Pro, and have zero regrets, the FFB is lightyears better, the QR system too, and at least for me, the main reason to upgrade was ditching the closed ecosystem and getting a wheelbase with more torque. Depending on the car, but running all the way from 8Nm for Rally/road cars/drifting and all the way to 25Nm for Lotus 79, LMP2 etc. And it really makes the difference. So I would suggest either selling your current gear and changing over to a more open brand.
So if you sell the gear you have and instead of getting the Moza R9 to invest 200- 300 USD more, and get the VRS or the Simagic Alpha Ultimate. For the button plate on the wheel I would suggest getting the Turn racing BP2 for 320 USD. Which will be a proper upgrade instead of a sidegrade. VRS is 900 USD, Alpha Ultimate is 1000 USD, therefore you are still looking including wheel less than the DD2, with a comparable if not a bit better performance. Haave seen people in Simucube community sell their SC2 Pro wheelbase and replace them with Simagic Alpha Ultimate. The choice of course is yours, but after spending 2 years in Fanatec ecosystem and trying different gear, I just think Fanatec is not worth your hard earned time and money.
@@nejcmirtic529 Very informative writeup, thanks for that. I have an old Fanatec CSR wheel and have been saving up/biding my time. I was set on Fanatec, but reading your comment certainly has me considering other players.
Nice video, as usual. Thank you Will.
Thank you for the piece of mind! Mine is only six months old and used so light to the point where I have yet to install the torque key…..I’ve been terrified to use it lately due to these sensations and slight knock you’re speaking about, I thought something was wrong. I started noticing after installing the universal hub for xbox and drift wheel. I will definitely use it without stressing to much now haha. Thank you for the video!
Excelent "re-review" as always. I definitly stay on fanatec Eco system since 2019. Best way to play diferent racing games, compatibility, and beautifull designs.
Liked before watching because your videos are always amazing
I always do the same thing 🔥🔥
Used a VRS and as a DD2 owner, it is very smooth! Granted you do have to put in the work to get the VRS working well but you can tell how smooth it is. One thing I hate about the Fanatec is that it usually doesn't translate the rumble strip through the wheel. Maybe my settings are bad but I love that feeling. Not salty about it as I need the compatibility and love the eco system of the wheels. It's all about balance. Great video.
This is an excellent video on the state of the Fanatec DD1 & DD2. I have a DD1 and agree with you 100%. I often wonder if I'm missing anything from changing to a Simucube Pro. Still, the ecosystem and recent updates to Fanalab and Driver have kept me happy. The ability to directly switch the profiles automatically based on what game and the car is booted up is a handy feature, but only a matter of time, I suppose, before other manufacturers catch up and implement this so Fanatec needs to do something soon to stay ahead. I've been waiting for QR2, which feels like forever. So they really need to get this out soon. But, of course, the other downfall of Fanatec is that getting a wheel outside of the ecosystem will cost you more since you need a podium hub.
Who took Will's baseball cap?
LOL!!!
😂😂
The heat
The newest driver package for the DDs transformed those wheelbases. Still worth it imo.
Love my dd1 started with a dd pro. The dd1 feel so much more smooth and way more feed back from cars.
Looking to do this exact path upgrade any down side to it?
Thanks Will. I was contemplating selling my DD1 to move to simicube pro but I don't think I'll bother now. 👍🏻🍀🇮🇪🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🏁
The hardest thing for me with Fanatec is I have 3 wheels from them I love. They're all at or under $300, and they do 90% of what a $700-$1000 wheel does. I don't want to switch bases to the Moza and then have to rebuy the same wheel I have but like with 2 more switches and a screen for $500. Wish the wheels were easily compatible, they'd probably sell way more. obviously, it seems like its a good way to get you to stay in their ecosystem
That is the main concept behind their ecosystem, the so-called "sunk cost fallacy", where they know that you will want to stay in their ecosystem since you have already invested X amount into their gear. So to your brain it makes "more sense" to invest additional money to get something, even if it is worse/more expensive than what other brands have to offer.
And no, not every wheel on the market costs 500+€ for Simucube and other brands. I had a CSW 2.5, V3 pedals and Universal Hub with a wheel. Sold everything and gotten the SC2, BJ Steel GT Pro and 2 wheels (SRB BB Ultra and just a round steering wheel 33cm).
And all I can say is, every piece of gear is just on a completely different level, very glad I have decided to ditch their ecosystem and go for a wheelbase where the choice of the wheel doesn't matter. And QR is lightyears better and cheaper than the one Fanatec has to offer. So just a simple "drift/NASCAR" rim will inherently be 140€ cheaper compared to Fanatec.
The Turn racing BP2 is $320, Polsimer F1 steering wheels are roughly $350, Sim-line button plates are also in the 300 price bracket, the Mike Kapral wheels are 200€ as a kit and 300€ assembled, so there ARE similarly priced options out there. Just maybe not as obvious as average consumer would need them to be. Also cannot wait to start the Pokornyi DIY LMP Pro and GT2 button plate projects, which I refused to start when I was in the Fanatec ecosystem, due to the inherent need for a Podium Hub.
@@nejcmirtic529 which motor would you recommend for someone that wants to get into sim racing? I was thinking of getting a belt driven motor but not gonna lie DD wheels look and sound super cool but maybe they are just too much for my initial budget.
A good belt driven seems to be much cheaper than a DD when starting at least.
@@GabrielP2R The real entry lever gear used to be G29 for 250€ ish everything above that used to be mid-range. And that was true even for the Fanatec gear. The CSL Elite was 350€ and the CSW 2.5 was 550€ which is currently on par with most of the "entry-level" DD wheelbase.
My fist tip would be, to GET A REALLY GOOD RIG. I would suggest skipping all of the Playseat and similar tubular rigs, and going straight to a 8020 aluminium rig, which will be able to accommodate every gear you will decide to later invest into. Something like a TR80 Lite or even TR80 Mk5, and if you don't feel like spending 250€ for a bucket seat, you can get a clean used car seat for 50€. Only with a solid and that adjustable rig, you will be able to later upgrade just the gear, w/o the need to upgrade the rig in the process too.
The cheapest Fanatec setup is still 700€ For CSL DD 5Nm (350€) with basic CSL pedals 80-140€ (2 vs 3 pedals, no LC) and 140 for P1 steering wheel, which adds up to 640€. Which is also in line with the Moza R5 bundle.
So sadly for anything under 700 USD, I would say you will want to upgrade the gear rather soon. So my suggestion would be, to start with a G29 to get the grips or to get a decent second-hand belt-driven wheelbase for some $500-600 (CSL Elite or CSW 2.5 with CSL Elite pedals and a steering wheel). That should last you for some years before you want to upgrade.
After that, sell the gear you bought and investing a bit more than 700€ for the most basic "mid-range gear".
Based on my experience after trying my CSW 2.5 vs SC2 rig was, only after I upgraded the gear the sim became really fun to drive, and you can really feel the car much better than with the CSW 2.5. I noticed the same input from the friends that came to try my rig. The CSW 2.5 nad V3 pedals were a toy and people took it as a joke and didn't really enjoy vs now that they keep asking me when is the next time they can come and drive.
So based on that experience, my minimal go to gear suggestion would be, at least 10Nm, but sadly those setups usually start at about 1000€/$. So for next step I would suggest at minimum Simagic Alpha Mini, which is $500, Fanatec CSL Elite V2 pedals that are $300 (for anything more I would suggest BJ Steel GT Pro or if you don't need a clutch look at VRS pedals) for a wheel I would get the USB Turn racing BP2 wheel plate or Simagic GT Cup steering wheel. Add all up and you are looking at about 1200 USD. Or if you can afford a bit more to invest the VRS or Alpha Ultimate would be my go-to wheelbases, and the wheel/button plate of your choice. And pedals really look at VRS or BJ Steel GT Pro or Simforge MK1.
All that is of course for the use with a PC, where your choice of hardware is free. For consoles sadly the best you can get is Fanatec and you cannot mix and match the gear. So here my advice would be, before you start seriously investing in sim gear, get a PC first, then invest big bucks into sim gear.
@@nejcmirtic529 PC is my hardware of choice, always. I will have to buy a full PC though, which is an add expense, from peripherals to the PC itself.
I took a look at the t300rs GT, which I found some good reviews from people in the sim racing communities as an decent mid-level/entry option, used I found for 200€ and some with a playseat for 400€, but I think it would be better to also get a good used rig made from aluminum as you said.
What you think of the T300RS Gt? I'm going to take a look at the CSW 2.5 too, mid-level is what I'm looking for at this point.
@@GabrielP2R T300 RS is better than the G29 and ok as a beginner wheel, just make sure it doesn't overheat. Otherwise, if you can get a good-priced CSL Elite wheelbase and a wheel (400 ish) it will already be a big upgrade, and they don't overheat as much as the T300 does. The main problem with the T300 is the overheating and loss of FFB strength due to that.
Don't even look at the Playseat rigs, because they are overpriced POS. Wobbly as hell, the wheel deck pillar is in between your legs which makes in some configurations using brake next to impossible, and heel and toe completely impossible. And a friend who had it managed to pull the screw of the pedal plate through the steel tube while using the CSL Elite LC pedals. So yeah, I would strongly encourage you to get a solid base that you can later upgrade to literally any gear you want.
Went with simucube 2 pro after a csl dd, I will just say it's perfect
Had a DD1 for probs 2yrs now, honestly never really noticed the torque ripple. But in saying that since 443 onwards it's gotten a lot smoother, most noticeable jumping curbs used to make a big clunk when the car came back to the ground doesn't do that anymore. If the torque ripple is there it's never been an issue for me when driving
Thank you Will! I would also appreciate maybe an updated video on how to properly set up the DD2 for certain games. You made such video before but maybe there is need for an update since the majority of Sim Racers are still on the DD platform I assume?
Go to Fanatecs Forums, there is a great forum regarding Profiles, and Maurice on there has done all the leg work for us to create amazing profiles per car for each sim, that will auto change per car with a few files you can integrate.
@@sincity_steve i knew he made settings for a lot of cars in iracing but i didnt know about the auto change. Thanks i'll have a look
@@sincity_steve Thanks for your input Steve, will do accordingly. Have a nice day buddy!
Glad to hear some love for Simagic, been loving the new software and FW
As a DD1 owner I can say, I felt a difference in ffb details and smoothness when I increased the gain in fanalab and decreased it in game. Some user told, that your driver will offer more potential power so the wheel won't hit the peak. Hope it will help.
Hi sir, you are making really perfect videos about sim racing. I wonder which brand of pedals is your favorite and you enjoy to use much ? Thank you
The DD1 I had was overkill on the torque. And I love strong FFB. While keeping the DD1 I ordered the CSL DD pro 8nM base to try out. Boy was I shock at the power. Yes it’s 8nM but it’s more intense and after switching back and forth between DD1, the CSL DD pro at 100% FFB feels like about 50-55% or 10-11nM high torque on DD1. Sold DD1. CSL DD pro is my wheel base now. Been almost a year since and zero regrets.
I had the exact opposite experience :D
After years of deskmounted g28 i went 8020 rig with a CSL DD 8nm. A month later I already wanted more and got the DD1 and I am a lot happier now. I had a better experience setting the wheel base at 100% and setting the ingame settings down to avoid clipping.
I did the same sold my DD2 for the DD pro
@@dirtysouthracingnetwork8830 that’s a really big downgrade
@@OkiDingoagreed, I have the GT dd pro as a back up, but no way I could ever go back to the smaller wheelbase for permanent use after the dd1 experience. Even fully maxed out it can’t hold a candle to the podium power.
I cannot imagine going back to my CSL DD after running my DD2 for the past year or so. The DD2 feels better in virtually all regards to me, but it is subjective and a personal preference.
Love my DD Pro but have to send It back for repairs as the pedal RJ12 port on the back has come loose and drops connection to my pedals. Hope they can fix quick. Apart from that it's been great.
very handy video right in time
My mates run Simicubes and Huesinkveld Pedals. But for what I paid I'm very happy with my DD1, V3 Pedals and SQ1.5 setup and don't feel I'm missing out. Iracing and Rf2 ffb is great. AC is a bit problematic. Wish the shifter was as trouble free as the DD1.
What's the issue with AC?
Hey Will, the content you produce is superb! Keep it up.
Just wanted to ask your opinion on this one:
I own 2 bases, 1 Fanatec Podium DD1 w/ 2 wheels (Formula and Porsche) and 1 Simucube 2 Pro + OEM USB Wheel. I want to sell one of them as it makes no sense owning both. Which one would you sell?
Regarding the Fanatec I just don't like the cogging feel to it, the rest is fine by me, as I also own the pedals and gear shifter from Fanatec ecosystem.
Thank you!
Worth saying Maurice from Fanatec have made car specific profiles for a ton of cars. They are in the Fanatec forun. Love my dd1 since they are improving it constantly
Maurice is a lifesaver. Got my DD2 in June, since the FFB update + Maurice’s profiles, I have 0 complaints about my DD2. It’s frankly amazing, and the 5 year warranty is a massive plus imo
This aspect really needs more publicity, fanalab will now automatically load car specific profiles (mine are all from Maurice) and it makes the process of jumping in and driving that much easier. I never use the 5 memory slots now and I only really go into the settings on the wheel to adjust the brake pressure. Very happy DD2 user here.
@@gregspicer1238 agree. They should be more vocal on it, or even include it in Fanalab when installing.
Yes these profiles completely changed my experience with my DD1. Made a massive difference having proper profiles and having them load automatically whenever you change cars is awesome.
This is one of the main reasons I am nervous about switching to another wheelbase. Having these profiles and not needing to tweak settings for every car is enormous. It's the community users like this that really add to the overall Fanatec experience. I don't frequent the Simucube forums often. Is there a "super-user" or profiles like this available?
Hi Will, could u do a walk through of VRSs new software,as new filters etc available and there is nothing on line about it,cheers.
I've had my DD1 since launch. It's been a great wheelbase overall. However, a few months ago, it stopped turning off by way of the power switch on the back. It's out of warranty, so now I need to unplug it and plug it in whenever I want to use it. It's annoying to say the least.
Great wheelbase and ecosystem, I just wish the warranty was a tad longer
Maybe I’m bias now as I have a Simucube moving from a dd1 but for me it’s the hardware for the fanatec dd series that needs an update, the motor is simply not as smooth as I’d like it to be and it seems all newer motors releasing have this basis covered, I think that’s a big deal at the price, it needs to feel like a car when you turn that wheel fast or slow or whatever and you can count steps in that rotation which I hated, the QR is probably the worst on any dd right now and for whatever reason fanatec seem to be in no rush to get it replaced, easily one of the biggest weaknesses. Precisely as you pointed out.
so yeh for me I think just a mild hardware update dd1/2 v2 or something using a smoother motor and including the new QR would put them back on top, they are even losing the biggest advantage they had over the Simucube which is the powered wireless connection allowing far more inputs, now Simucube has rolled out a new Bluetooth module allowing far more inputs on a wheel over true contactless wireless, something they never had before with a limit of 28 inputs, that’s up to like 96 max now and wheels are on the market such as the ascher f64 v3 wireless. So fanatec have now lost that advantage to its biggest competitor.
@Boosted Media If you would mount the dd1/dd2 to the next level racing wheelstand 2.0 can the wheelstand handle the 20nm or will there be lots of vibration?
Any testing done on the Fanatec DD 8nm or 5nm PC models? They haven’t been available to buy for months on website but seem a reasonably priced way to get a DD wheel.
Nice vid WIll, Ive been running a DD1 since they were released.
i havent done a driver / firmware update in a while and thought it was time to try the new features etc etc.
Fan now stays on 100% and the firmware manager cannot do a firmware update to the motor.
Ive put a request in. I should have just left it as it was and not done the firmware / driver upgrade. lolz.
sigh.
EDIT: "CAL" also blinks and flashes on the wheel, even though ive calibrated it several times..
Good video as always. One thing I noticed that many other not native german speaking people do is not speaking the „E“ at the end of Porsche. It’s not „porsch“ it is called Porsche. With and E at the end. You speak that E. 😅
Other than that, keeping the good work. Hopefully after all that health problems and the moving you all are back to „normal state“.
I have order the DD for the SeriesX, is it true that the PorscheGT3- & the F1-Wheel don't support the switches(rotary controller) and RPM-Display on XBox/Series?🤔And is there a chance to aktivate one of this🖖
What about a revisit to the Simagic Alpha and the new software? I Feel like Simagic has made strides recently
Torque ripple isn't there in game on my DD2, I can only feel it as long as no driving data are received.
years back Fanatec was the way to go, now however there is so much competition good for consumer to choose from
Have not updated my dd2 in some time, should you always delete all fanatec files first, then download the new ones? If so, should I plug my pedals into the computer instead of the wheel base?
Can I ask if this works on a console? Keen to know Will’s settings on ACC for PS5.
I have a vsw 2.5 and have this clogging too! Don't notice when driving only when stationery
Hey Will, would you update your DD2 to an invicta wheel base? Worth the upgrade?
Great insight can anyone provide a Drift and track FFB settings for the DD1 ?
This update available for the CSW2.5 or this is for DD bases only?
Can you make a pedal faceoff with the many options. I really wanna get a new set of pedals. I been using tha t3pa but honestly i want something that simulates pressure and can handle more weight to the break.
when you initialised the the steering wheel it stated it was going to reboot into xbox mode , are you running an xbox or PC ?
Hey Will! Ok so I love the vidz, I have 1 suggestion sometimes I get lost with all the info, I’m not saying stop with info I’m saying how about maybe a grading system for all the points your are trying to make with all the equipment. For example an A for force feedback a B for price for value a B for quality. Idk just a suggestion I’m still not going to stop watching regardless I love Boosted media
We’ve thought about doing something like that but I worry it oversimplifies things. I don’t see my job as telling you what’s best, but rather to try and convey the experience so you can decide for yourself what’s best for you specifically.
I've owned the DD2 for about 6 months now and he's right the "ripple" effect is there but I gotta say I've noticed it 0% of the time when I'm in an intense battle. It's only really noticeable when you're actually looking for it like in a practice session or such. Awesome base though.
I don't feel it at all. Are you latest drivers etc?
I’ve got DD2 since Black Friday. I only drift in AC using VDC & DCGP car packs and i must say its very smooth for me and no ripple effect.
Same here, it feels smooth to me
Isnt DD2 an overkill for just drifting tho?
@@xXxBo5sANaCxXx It the other way around, especially in competition cars, we use 900 to 1080 degree lock to lock in high torque.
@@xXxBo5sANaCxXx some cars are almost impossible to control with a non direct drive wheel. Drifting needs the extra power, speed, and precision. Rally needs it to and makes it more enjoyable
I always struggle with myself bc i want to know if its worth upgrading to a sc 2 pro…
Hi, have you managed to optimize the dd2 podium setup for 2024? I can't make it perfect and make less effort. 30 minutes into the race I feel exhausted
What would u recommend buying cause i wanna play iRacing and GT7 in PS5 and pc
I haven't noticed any cogging, but then again I came from CSL-E and G27 before that.
One thing to consider as well is that the Fanatec wheelbases create interference with headsets that use steam lighthouse tracking for VR. I discovered the issue recently with my CSL DD Pro. Any time I have the wheelbase on and touch the headset, it would go grey which means it lost tracking. There are many threads online about this issue.
There is a workaround but it costs about $75 and it's not perfect.
What really upset me was that when I started to question the issue with Fanatec, the person I was emailing with conveniently 'went on vacation' and a new person who could barely communicate in English came on tried to deny the issue even though it is clearly something that lots of people experience.
Not sure if other wheelbases have this issue or not but it's something to be aware of if you use VR with your rig.
I have not had this problem across 3 headsets that use lighthouse tracking, Index, Vive Pro 2 and 8KX. I have a DD1 in a SimLab GT1 on carpet. There must be another variable.
@@vulcantuminello1127 After more investigation, I found out that when I moved the rig to another room, the issue pretty much went away. It might be that the new room has carpeted floors and blackout curtains. The old room had lots of windows and hardwoods. I'll delete my previous comment, but wanted to reply first.
which would you recommend now DD1 or the Clubsport DD+ ? ty
I'm tossing up on a 2nd hand purchase DD1 for $1000au. My Csw2.5 has been gr8 but its time for a upgrade. Also looking at the moza r16... but given i already have 4 fanatec wheels... i think it makes sense to stay with fanatec.
Im currently loooking at either a used DD1 or brand new simagic alpha mini. Anyone got any thoughts to help me out in my decision?
GT7, can the rotation be changed from default 900?
as always geat content. just wondering how you driver version 448 . when I check for latest version I always end up with 447
It's only available in the forum because it's still in Beta.
Can you show your setup for the wheel cam please? Mount used, position and camera?
ruclips.net/video/XpG199_V_Xo/видео.html
Hi, i play in Xbox Series X at the moment.
I have a Thrustmaster T248 and want to upgrade to Direct Drive.
Ive seen a lot of your videos and i have some mixed opinions.
Would you recommend the Fanatec CSL DD (8Nm) McLaren GT bundle or keep the T248 ?
I dont have a decent PC for gaming right now. So im losing a lot of options :(
Thanks in advance!!
Im running the mclaren wheel on a csl dd 8nm and i totally recommend it to you
Bu torque is like coke.... you never Have enough....
Im looking to upgrade my Cls dd, i have a choice to go with used dd1 for 1000$ or new simagic alpha for 1100$ new, im not sure what to go for...
I want a new steeringwheel and pedals for my ps5. I got the crappy Thrustmaster T248 now and its time for something better. I probably go for the Fanatec Podium but does anyone know something better for Ps5????
how can I eliminate vibrations in high speed corners?
In Fanalab, you can link wheel lights and ffb settings to specific cars in specific games.
Just something i believe should be noted.
In the fanatec forums, Maurice Böschen has great profiles for iracing and ACC.
Ps: If you have a CSL-DD, multiply by 0.53 in iracing black box, set max ffb to 8nm, and 100%ffb in fanalab. (Depending on the power output the value changes. Maurice explains in the download forum.)
They are very dull profiles I felt as tho these profiles killed the Ffb and overall feeling.
Yep, massive feature
@@andypovich6604 they don't really work with the CSL DD.
@@Miguel-th3wx ive used it for the last 3 months and i like them better than most ive found.
The issues I had with DD2. With older games wheel is really bad like you have to work with settings to find best tune but from start its like impossible to play. Small problems like a handbrake have dedicated plug at the back and system do not recognise it. It does work but not appears on the software because it has to be plugged in to pedals. The quick release not that quick and nearly broke my nose one's. Other than that when it works its great base which will rip your hands off. One more multiple times had QC and wheel just decided to switch off FFB this usually happens after switching games. pedals get's off calibration sometimes.
Have you tried this latest beta firmware?
Hopefully a clubsport DD in the future, for middleground price point.
I think Fanatec went on sale this Black Friday (unlike they did the years before) to get rid of stock. Aka I think something new is coming eventually.
@@PresidentScrooge Fingers crossed for more new stuff.
Hello all
What base settings do you all use on you base for gt 7 ?
Pls help guys
I love Boosted Media!! What i guys!!
@Roberto Bianca 🤣🤣🤣🤣 You are a scammer!!! Men, you are so funny. You just made me laugh so much this morning.
All of these issues, aren’t really “issues” for me, I find way more slop in the steering of a real race car than a sim wheel anyways, so I don’t ever notice any cogging when I race, all I did on my DD2 was 3D print a new spacer instead of using the original rubber piece, even though there was slight movement if you force the wheel to do that, I never noticed any flex while driving, so the only think the new spacer added was less “binding” when trying to remove a wheel. On that note I have used simucube bases and haven’t noticed any better feeling if both bases are setup correctly to your preference. My 2c
upgraded from CSL Elite 1.1 to DD2 under black Friday deal (and go the same V2.5 wheel you display xD), yes there is a "clonk" sometimes, but i'm satisfied.
Simucube would be way too expensive with a good wheel, Asetek and Simagic doesn't have viable feedback to be "safe" IMHO.
We'll see in next years how evolves the market :)
A bit of silicone grease on the qr1 hub and wheelside qr1 eliminated the clunk entirely for me.
should i use my bas in high togue mode?
I need help I want to copy some good settings for podium dd2 I play acc
The firmware update is so much easier and less risky then before!
I’m already invested in the Fanatec ecosystem. Today I got a DD2 for $1000.00 USD to replace my CSW2.5.
Compared to a t300 though is it worth it, should I spend almost 2 grand on this?
Do you feel that 27CM diameter wheel is too narrow for GT3 driving? Would you prefer a wider diameter?
@bomarfield so I'd be better off with a turn R305 rim and connect it to the fanatec endurance button module and the clubsport hub?
So which one has the better FFB? Fanatec or Simucube?
Why can't you make a brake profile in fanalab like every other brake company offers?
I love my DD1/Podium, mind was blown when I went from a G29 (trashed after 2.5 years of mostly Dirt Rally) to it (I wanted console gaming option). Before the upgrade I would always come 2nd, out of 30 odd, in my local Motorclub esports rally competiton to a guy on PC with a DD1, then first rally with it, day 3 of owning, I won rally finland on pace, the biggest thing for me was feeling the weight of the cars and the suspension loading when landing off a jump, difference was night and day and meant I was so much more consistent. People still try to say I should be sim racing on PC but my day job is an IT Engineer and I really don't want to be fixing software issues and playing with settings much at home, I just want to jump in, anyone who says PC sim racing is simple & reliable is either lying or has a lot of time on their hands. When I jump on ACC or Dirt Rally 2.0 on my PS5, I'm always amazed and glad I invested to make the experience as enjoyable as possible!
I'm in IT too and you're wrong about PCs being difficult lmao
PC is the way to go. You're missing out if you're serious about sim racing.
@@impreza0109 The PC sim racing scene is far better than console but the suggestion you want come across a myried of hardware and software issues on PC compred to the smooth trouble free console experience is incredibly misleading.
I wonder when they restock the dd1 because they have been sold out at fanatec for some time now
As a fanatec fan and user. Yes they have. They shot them selves in the foot with the QD 2.0 that’s taken almost 5 years….
They basically did nothing since the CSL DD launch.
As a DD2 user, I can say the firmware update transformed the ffb. I also have never experienced the torque ripple when driving at all, even if I tried to feel it when driving, its just not there. I've only ever felt it if stopped and the wheelbase is on, out of a game, this is a design by product of an outrunner motor. The standard settings on ACC are rubbish too. If I was in the market for a DD base now, I'd probably go sc or somthing as they have much better steering wheel options imo. And the motor design on the sc is arguably better and a little smoother.
Same here
On the DD2 I only find torque ripple when I run the desktop software. When I apply identical settings through the wheel menu, zero ripple.
Torque ripple is a hardware thing and is not influenced by settings changed on either Software or from the Tuning Menu.
That is what I thought, it is a function of the motor topology, but this is my experience.
So will moza r21 r16 or dd1
Where did you find the 448 driver? On the Fanatec site latest driver is 447...
It's only available in the forum because it's still in Beta.
Issue I get with my DD1 and gt3R wheel is I keep losing paddle ahift during a race. I click wheel off and click back on and they work again
It's happening every 5th or so race.
Anyone have any ideas?
I have CSL dd pro and I have never noticed any ripple.
The understeer in that car was a distraction all video lol. Fanatec have a phone app as well, it's pretty cool.
Thanks for the vid