How To Install Cylinder Heads On A Kawasaki FX730V V-TWIN ENGINE | Complete Tutorial!
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- Опубликовано: 25 окт 2022
- This video is part 2 of the Kawasaki fx730v rebuild. In this video we show you how to install valve seals, head gaskets, valve train, valve covers, and set the valve lash!
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#kawasaki #enginerebuild
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Very informative video for people to learn from. Great job Brandon. Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see this motor running.
Thanks so much!
Great video thank you both. May you both prosper.
I wanted to say thank you. I rebuilt my scag using your video. Saved me $1000s in labor. I appreciate you taking time to shoot this.
Your welcome. Glad it could help you
You pretty dang smart on them mower engines. Your gonna have everyone in lawn mower land bringing you stuff to work on after posting videos like these.
Thanks for your comment!
Nice work brother.👍🏻🇺🇸
It’s a good idea to flatten the head surface and I use 600 grit sandpaper on peace of glass and just move it around
Great point! Thanks for the tips
Good morning Brandon and Ranae! Ugh...lapping valves. I did this NUMEROUS times in my friend's shop. Of course, this was on V8 heads. Then on to porting and polishing. I really loved working there. Nothing like seeing the fruits of your labor running in an 850hp engine! You guys do GREAT work! You should think about doing a side gig for other folks. You'd make a ton of cash!
Hope you guys have an awesome weekend and a fun Hallowe'en!🎃
Thanks Lou!
Use a little bit of Lucas zinc additive with ur oil changes.
Love the nail polish Brandon LOL great content 👌
Thanks!
Good work!
Thanks Ed!
It’s good you can do your own equipment repair at night and mow all day, tuff but it’s a living
It sure is tough! Thank you for your feedback
Nice work. But, I was wondering if you knew the mounting bolt pattern will mallow it to mount directly onto a John deer x500?
Unfortunately I do not know that
Good video but what are the torque specs?
Nice work! You should have installed some piston return springs though, lookup ChrisFix video on them… def a good idea to install on every mild rebuild
Never heard of them
@@berndtslawncare4906 RUclips it, ChrisFix piston return springs
I just bought a new, 2022 Hustler Fastrak SDX 60 today, 01-10-2022 and it has the Kawasaki FX730V. I don’t cut grass commercially, but I sure hope the engine holds up!
It should. If you keep oil in them and keep the air filter clean these engines are great
Keep the air cooling vanes clean,seen a few last week that blew up at 350 hours
I wish I had a third hand to help when I needed. Wish it had pretty painted nails 💅🏻 too
Maybe one day!
Hear that noise, that’s what it’s all about folks, not just one helping hand but many loving hands 🙌
From what I'm seeing you must have been working at a lawn mower repair shop back in the day there Brandon
Lol no sir. I am pretty much self taught. I have learned from my father, fellow RUclips channels, and friends. Thanks for your comment!
@@berndtslawncare4906 your welcome young man 👍😎
Is this the same specs on the other side??? Do I need to bring up top dead center on both sides or just one side to adjust valves?
Both sides
Sir, If I may ask this silly question. Once a motor is rebuilt , just like on a new motor. Do you change the oil after like 12-15 HRS? Great information video and helps us all that want to learn more and help save a $.
On a rebuilt engine I do the first oil change within 5 hrs once the rings have had a chance to seat in the engine. Then I will do regular changes at 50 hours. Thanks for your comment!
This isn't a rebuild.
What were the torque specs for mounting the head bolts? and carb and muffler?
I don’t remember
Ft Devens.....Fall 1968....
Just a pet peeve. WD 40 is NOT A LUBRICANT and shouldn't be used in place of assembly lube.
I agree to an extent. Wd40 is a silicone surface lubricant and does lubricate metal objects and surfaces. However wd40 is quite thin and motor oil or assembly lube should be used in its place. Thanks for the comment John and thanks for tuning in
@@berndtslawncare4906 Thanks for making the video. Just a pet peeve. WD- water displacement 40- 40th try. Great stuff, just not a lubricant. Hope I don't come across as an ass. Ironically, I had this same conversation just hours before seeing the video. Maybe that's why it was on my mind. But thanks again for doing the work, and putting it up.
Question, since there's no lifters per se', what keeps the tappets in place when you remove the push rod?
@@johnfromnj885 there is lifters. They are inside the crankcase riding on top of the crankshaft. I forgot to film the installation of them. You caught me!
I agree it’s not a lube for this job or any other but plain old 30w motor oil is what I’ve used for 57+ years
Please use assembly line. Big mistake for premature wear.
Thanks for the info!
I’ve put together 100,000 engines with just 30w engine oil for most of my life
Don’t buy the special crap people say
Get a peace of strap metal drill small hole in end , mark center of value, dril 3/4 hole, long bolt
Tighten in hole and a slut and press it down and drop keeper in
Done and cheap tool
Sitting here biting my nails watching this. Firstly, the drill “trick for lapping valves, not a good idea. And the amount of compound you used was excessive. After lapping, you should have used Prussian blue to verify the fit and ensure they are well done. I just did valves in a 51 flathead and just working them back and forth no more than 1cm was plenty to clean up the seats.
Next issue was the wire brush inside the head. You NEVER use a steel wire brush on aluminum heads. You must use brass brushes as they are softer than aluminum. You are giving the carbon more surface area to attach to even though you do not see the scratches.
Finally, as everyone else mentioned, WD-40. Spend the $5-$10 on real assembly lube.
The first valve you did is bent!