Leaky Toilet Repair // Fluidmaster Better Than Wax Universal Wax-Free Toilet Seal
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 26 ноя 2020
- Leaky Toilet Repair // Fluidmaster Better Than Wax Universal Wax-Free Toilet Seal
Learn how to repair leaking toilet with the Fluidmaster Better Than Wax Seal.
Follow me on Instagram: / all_around_dad
Disclaimer:
I, Justin Tucker (All-Around Dad), do not take any responsibility for any injury, loss or damage resulting from improper use of tools, equipment, or information given in my videos. The sole responsibility falls on viewer/user. I do not guarantee any information given is correct or proper. Viewers/users will take the information given at their own risk.
A tip from my Plummer…never seal the gap at the base of your toilet with silicone or caulking, if a leak occurs you’ll never know it until it’s to late and your subfloor will not like it.
If you leave the back uncaulked you'll be fine.
So if you don't caulk it, then there is nothing to prevent human spills from wicking underneath the bowl, which is gross. Instead, like the suggestion from Hinchey below, caulk 95%, and leave a gap in the back for leak detection.
I just installed a new Kohler. The flange is above the floor so I only used the top gasket. The back of the toilet was off the ground too much, so I ended up using the wax ring that came with it. I will add that I am a novice, but I follow the instructions step by step.
Good prep work. Started with clean surfaces. No other video ensured that important step.
3:41 Is your flange at floor level, below floor level or above floor level? Can't quite see...
'Cause aren't you supposed to only use the booster ring(s) if the flange sits below floor level, to get the ruber gasket at / above floor level so it makes proper contact?
If the flange surface is above floor level, aren't supposed to **only** use the blue rubber seal, and ignore the extra booster ring?
Correct
Don't caulk it right away. That way it's easier to see if it leaks. Might not notice a small leak after the first flush
Added****Use the instruction and slide them under the back edge and flush a few times.
another tip is to cut the tip of that caulk tube much smaller, and apply way less caulk. Then spray it with soapy water if you need to drag the bead. Ideally, the caulk tube's nozzle is the bead smoothing tool. Just cut the nozzle to about 2 mm diameter at a 45 degree angle.
Thank you for posting this helpful video
I would add that when you set the toilet and tighten the closet bolt nuts, tighten each side evenly, a little at a time. Choke up on your ratchet, and tighten the nuts just until they are snug. Any more could crack the porcelain bowl or the flange. Good video overall.
For DIY’ers it is better choice, IMO.
Less chance of messing up.
At 5:39, the toilet is very wobbly, like the gasket is too tall. I wonder how it turned out. Maybe the optional spacer was not needed here?
Nah that’s how it usually is
Did you have to use any shims under toilet, had to with mine in the back
What cleaner did you use? Do you have to get all the wax off for a good seal?
My flange is level with the floor but with the spacer, toilet doesn't touch the floor so feels off. Do I not need the spacer then or will the toilet eventually sink??
Do you like the Fluidmaster better than using wax rings? A friend is coming to fix my leak and I don’t know if I should buy the jumbo wax ring or the Fluidmaster better than wax. Just your opinion. Thanks
If I’m changing the ring I’m using better than wax, if someone else is doing it I’d prefer wax.
I didn't use the spacer should I have? the flange was level with floor and needed to add stainless steel flange cover to cover the broken plastic flange it's not leaking but wondering if I should have used spacer
That really depends on the spacer you used and if it also seals as well. If not it will leak. Me personally would have added the small seal but if it’s not leaking then it should be ok!
@@all-arounddad4418 I just used the one attached to the blue plastic piece not the additional one. The flange with the replacement steel in place is barely over floor height ...so far so good except the toilet has the front elevated higher than rear after tightening it down.
should I loosen shim re tighten?
Yeah that probably would be your best bet!
I just used this product right now. I had water leaking from the base. So now that I’ve installed it and put the toilet back it now wobbles. Any idea why? I already went back and adjusted the seal and cleaned the old wax off best I could
I’ve used three of these in my home. I have found that if the flange is just slightly above the floor, 1/16” to 1/8”, the big foam spacer isn’t needed. No issues after a full year of use.
Maybe you don't need the black part if it's level with the floor
How is the seal holding up? Any leaks?
No leaks it’s working great.
how do u know you needed the spacer?..........
It’s depending on how far off the floor the flange is. Mine is sunk in an 1/8 inch so I need the spacer and also the kit comes with instructions and will let you know the exact measurements for it.
It appears that you did not need that big black spacer ring. It was the reason that your toilet was rocking around before you bolted it down.
The act of tightening as much as you did may have distorted the spacer and/or ring. There is no guarantee that the products will just squish down evenly.
I agree based on the flange height relative to the floor the extra spacer was definitely not needed.
Just watched this and thought the same thing
what's the trick to the wax ring coming up WITH the toilet? PUHLEASE tell me!!!! lol
I don’t think there really is a trick. I may have just gotten lucky. I’ve installed several of these and very few wax rings come off like they did on this one.
@@all-arounddad4418 it appears that the old wax ring had been pressed onto the horn, instead of set directly on the flange when it was installed. Either way works with a wax ring, but yours did not appear to be fully compressed. It could be the reason it leaked.
Ouch, don't seal the base. If it leaks, you want to know immediately.
Don't use Fluidmaster's "Better Than Wax" product. That was my choice as well for a toilet that began to leak at the floor. Three years or so after installing this product, it began to leak again. When I removed the toilet, I discovered that the plastic that this product is made of had hardened and deteriorated, allowing the leak. Many types of plastic deteriorate over time. I sensibly assumed that Fluidmaster would have used a plastic that would endure. They don't; the product is garbage.
Wrong your drain was level with the floor, you did not need the black sponge just the blue.
So before you say I’m wrong, I do not consider myself a professional. Second, I did test it with out the black one and it did not seal. So yes I did need it. Thanks.
You did not show that your not a camera man either.
@@MrDutchman100 I did not claim to be a cameraman either. Thanks though.
I learned not to use silicone like you do, I’ve seen better cakes frosted
Yeah me too and did not claim to be a professional. Thanks tho.
You should be wearing nitrile gloves! Nastiness is under there!🙀🤮
That was not evenly
because of spacer. . ?
This product will leak! Don’t do it!