Not only has Tapcon been selling a very similar kit for decades, Irwin Tools has virtually the same kit for at least ten years. And according to Tapcon's instructions, always drill the hole 3/4" deeper than the fastener. I have been in the masonry trades for over 30 years, and seldom had a problem with a Tapcon if you use the right screw for the application.
I have been an electrician for 40 years and I have always hated Tapcon. I like caulking anchors with the expensive set tools. I like zinc mushroom anchors. I love my old variable power Hilti nail guns. I need to get my stuff mounted to the walls, ceilings, floors, make sure it's solid, and move on. I think I could actually come to like Tapcons if they always work this well and in all kinds of masonry. Concrete block (hollow) I will still opt for the hollow wall caulk anchors or mushrooms.
Ive used tapcons for a very long time. usually only have an issue if i dont clean the hole properly, or dont drill the hole deep enough, even with phillips head, but i dont like them as much. I dont like having to carry around a fiddly little tool that is easy to drop, i always carry an impact, and use my skill. This is a tool for the fools, or if you cant physically carry two tools imo. Lining up a heavy rotary hammer on a screw head, vs an ultralight brushless compact... it just kinda doesnt make sense
20 years probably. TBO I think it’s faster with a hammer drill with the bit and a impact to drive the tap con vs sliding the thing off and on as it requires two hands. Plus sometimes the sleeve drops to the bottom of your pouch and you have to dig around for it or it rolls away down a hill or under some equipment. I think his hole was maybe deep enough, but I noticed his drill was wobbling so the bit might have been bent and the hole was enlarged as a result and the tapcon couldn’t grab.
I'm under 2 minutes into the video and I need to comment on your first hole already Mr. VCG, Vince. You are recommended to pull up at least 2x during your drilling of the hole. It clears the flutes. I've installed 10's of thousands of different size tapcons. I believe it is also recommended by the manufacturer, there is definitely a learning curve and a feel to installing them without incident and without sacrificing holding strength.
I watched more people run Tapcons wrong over the years and blame it on the Tapcons.Take your time ,keep the hole clean and run the hole longer than the fastener,the big ones I spray penetrating oil on the threads some times.Also if it feels like it's bottomed out it probably is and you need to back the thing out and drill deeper.
Yo Vince! Come on man! I just watched a video a week or so ago where you called out a certain vendor at a show for not comparing apples to apples. (Circular saw blade challenge) The first Tapcon you drove doesn't have threads the full length because it's designed to secure 2x material to concrete. The smooth shank is larger than the shank at the threads and therefore will strip out no matter how you drive it IF you drive it deeper than the threads. The Tapcons you drive with the tool you're trying to sell were all thread. I'm really disappointed. 😔
First tapcon was longer the other were shorter .the trick to driving tapcon is drill a bit deeper than screw length and vacuum dust from hole shouldn't have any problems
Exactly ,and drill the roght size in the right material ,in stone you drill larger than in brick , in brick go with 5.5mm , stone 7mm, our tapcons are 7.5mm diameter
As a long time handyman, I've worked with a lot of tapcons over the years. First of all, Tapcon tells you right on the package and on their website to drive the screw with the hammer drill. It works. 😉 Also, I've found clearing out the dust and debris from the hole with a blow tool, not a vac works a lot better at removing more debris from the hole.
Definitely use a rotary hammer if you can. The shorter the time the bit spends turning in the hole the better off you are. If you're using a regular hammer drill. you should definitely be working it in and out to clear the dust. You're also absolutely correct to use canned air or an air compressor to blow out the hole. It's much more effective than a vac.
That just shows that both of you are about as clueless as him on how to do things the proper and safe way. 1, blowing with air does work, but you better be wearing good mask and sealed safety glasses, then if you are inside a house, plan on a lot of cleanup. They make a tool that looks like a baby snot suction thing, or use a drink straw with the vac hose.
I would ABSOLUTELY use this system if I had a lot of tapcons to run. Had a small porch rail project recently with 12 holes into concrete, 3 of 12 screws froze 1/2" - 1" off the plate and my impact couldn't even reverse them out, one of the screws just plain snapped. Having to cut them off flush and make new holes is always fun and not time consuming at all...
I prefer the expanding type, they're expensive but I just pay then forget about it. We would just call them concrete screws in the UK, never heard of a tap con til today.
I'm excited to give this a try. I set 3-500 tapcons a day in brick installing windows in buildings, whether it be curtain wall or residential. My SDS is my backbone and I just upgraded to the surge so the impact doesn't hit as hard and we have alot of blowout issues. I've got it down to a science but sometimes the brick is just too brittle. Lobe seeing these videos, especially when they have something that could potentially help me and the rest of my crew!
Agree on using the Surge to drive the tapcons in. The Gen 3 is too powerful and in my experience either blows out the hole or snaps the tapcon in half. I’m a DIYer and not a pro like yourself, so could be partly user error on my part. If I use the Gen 3 again in the future, I’ll probably set it on Speed 1 after drilling the hole and won’t be depressing the trigger all the way. The Gen 3 on Speed 1 is still really powerful compared to other impact drivers with 3 or 4 modes.
@@SouthFLTools In my experience with the gen three just hits much harder, but its easy to figure out as time and experience come. I bought the surges because my guys didn't have time for trial and error and they're too stubborn to take their time and ease the fastener in, instead they ram it in and just let it happen. From a fellow DIYer though (prior to getting in the trades) Don't stress the fasteners too much, they will break, they will blow. Just get the science down and learn the feeling of when to let off the trigger. That goes for all fasteners, but especially tapcons and lag bolts. If I had to give myself advice years ago, it would be not to bump the power down, but to let off as soon as the fastener snugs down, then give it a couple extra bumps. You'll end up learning how it feels when it gets close to snug and you'll feel the torque it has when it's as tight as you like. Down the road, you'll use less bumps and break/blow a fraction of the amount of fasteners! Just don't give up on it. Most DIYers I know are too easy to give up and say "Well that didn't work for me, ill let a professional do it." Just be stubborn with it and keep at it. You'll get to the point that you'll only use the 1 setting for trim screws and such!
@@austinb1800 wow, that’s very detailed advice and very much appreciated. Thank you sir! I’m not one to give up easily. I have the tools to do the job, so I’d rather try it myself as opposed to hiring a handyman or somebody else. I actually have a small job coming up to install a couple of wall mount hooks that will require 4 holes in my garage walls, which is made out of concrete block. I’m just going to take my time with it, make sure the holes are drilled in at a good depth and that they are properly cleaned out, prior to fastening with the Gen 3. I’ll probably still set it on speed 1 and slowly fasten the tapcon, so I can hear the impacting at the very end. Just want to make sure that I’m not damaging the material or the screws at at a higher speed, so I’ll probably play it safe. Thanks again for the insight 👍
@@SouthFLTools that's a good project to try it out on, because if you blow the holes out, you can always drill bigger and epoxy some studs in if you blow out too many times! Good luck with it, and I hope it goes well! Successful projects bring confidence needed to take on bigger and more exciting jobs!
I have never had a problem with tapcons. He never cleaned the dust out of the hole with the drill bit. You have to use the drill bit to clean the hole out the vacuum doesn’t get the dust out. In new concrete you may have to clean it several times. I have used thousands of tapcons never had a problem using this method.
Right? To be sure, ream the first 3/8-1/2" of the hole w the next size up to make room for any dust the threads create and feed up. This tool's basically for DIYers and Milwaukee fan boys.
I've been an iron worker for about 18 years and the thing we do whenever we roll her Hammer into the concrete for redheads or anchor bolts is you have to relieve the hole that you're drilling by going up and down with your rotor Hammer to pull out all the powder that's inside of it that allows the bit or screw or redhead or anchor bolt to go all the way or it needs to be
That is awesome! I have walked past that kit at HD plenty of times. Adding it to the to buy list. Even if that prevents one hole in the concrete from stripping out, then it was well worth the price. When fastening to concrete, in my experience, there isn’t much room for error. It’s either a bracket, fixture, box, support strap that needs to be anchored in the spot where the hole is drilled out. Well worth the $35 to keep from scrambling to figure out what to do when if the hole strips out or a fastener breaks. Great kit! Have an awesome night!
I've never been in any of the construction trades, just in maintenance and a DIYer, and have been using Tapcons for almost 35 years with no issues, following manufacturers recommendations and common sense. I always blow out the debris in the hole, never use a vac.
Man, I've snapped way too many Tapcons in my day - including today - so I finally told myself to search for an alternative. To be perfectly honest, though, I've never blown out the holes that I've always drilled with a Makita SDS Hammer Drill. I'm an old traditional timber framer, so metal fasteners are not my specialty. Regardless, I'm always willing to learn, so are you saying that the instructions included with Tapcon brand concrete fasteners are thorough enough to prevent one from either having the fastener seize up in the hole prematurely or simply break off in the hole? Although I've never cleaned out the holes that I drill with our Makita SDS Hammer Drill, I have always made it a habit to drill the holes deeper than the fastener being used. Thank you for any advice you may be willing to share with an old overseas vet.
2nd comment - OK, now I've watched the whole video. I'm a huge Milwaukee supporter don't get me wrong. Hilti has had a Kwik-con ll driver kit for years. (I believe that's what they call it) It's close to the same deal, but comes with a hard case AND the Torx bits as well. I believe Tapcon has one as well, whoever it is, the kit comes in an orange colored hard case. Tip #1 - that guage doesn't always fit in tight spots and sometimes loosens up. Hold up the length of tapcon you are using against the bit and add a half of an inch usually and wrap it with a little electrical,masking,duct tape, or hold a piece of paper around the bit and spray it with some orange marking paint or whatever color is available. Every contractor typically has marking paint. There's your gauge that doesn't get in the way! Tip #2 - of you don't pull the bit out a couple times to clear the flutes while drilling, the "drillings/dust" will get SOOO packed onto the sides of your hole, the vacuum won't take it out. Try it, after you vacuum out the hole, slide a small screwdriver or a punch down into the hole and the grindings will be packed against the sides
Clutch thing is cool, especially for DIYers and people who keep snapping them. I gave my tapcon drill bit things away, because it’s easier to have two drills going IMO. My tool bag is already too heavy, especially for single-task tools.
Loved this tool ever since I got it. It’s speeds up productivity. I still use the box from my original Bosch set. I prefer a hard case with clips vs the elastic soft pouches
Best way I found to not have issues is to drill your main hole with appropriate size then use a drill bit one size bigger to drill in the hole approximately a 1/4 to 1/2 inch ...never had a issue since using this method.
Texas Tapcons have saved me hundreds when they can be substituted. A old Union Carpenter showed me how. Always be grateful for knowledge. It’s just as valuable as money.
You seem to be implying there is a clutch in that drive sleeve. It’s just a sleeve. Your hex head tapcon counter-sunk down so the nut setter bottomed on the concrete and couldn’t engage much like a drywall screw setter - it was skipping. The second Philips bit stopped/slowed because of the clutch on your rotary hammer as all have. You can still snap a screw with it. This is to keep you from fiddling with as many bits and letting you use one tool, just like the tapcon branded 1/4” hex kit they copied it from.
It’s a really poor video overall, all just trying to get the ignorant to click and buy. -Bad drilling -Bad hole cleaning -Bad explanation of the tool -Bad fastening -Bad sales tactics
After working on bridges for a little and watching the carpenter guys build the frames for patching holes and stuff on the Piers I stopped using tap cons all I use now after drilling my hole getting wire that you tie rebar with put a piece of that in the hole little longer where it stick out and use a duplex nail and man that is a pretty good system keeps it nice and tight
For several years my entire trade revolved around using tapcons. The problems you describe happen only because someone lacks the finesse and basic skill to do it right.
Have installed a lot of tapcons over the years. I have a set like that from Simpson I believe. It rarely leaves it's spot on the truck. Just to long and bulky in my humble opinion. I find that the keys to no problems are a quality masonry bit and thoroughly cleaning the hole, and even then, once in a while you'll get a 3"+ that won't want to set correctly due to waste in the hole. Maybe one of these days, I'll try all of the kit out again. I have used the individual pieces though. 👍
A step up from the "CONSERT TOOL" I've been using for decades. Drill bit automatically retracts into the tool as you finished drilling. Then place the appropriate drive bit and drive the fastener. I only had a hammer drill back then and set the clutch as needed on the drill. CONSERT TOOL had no clutch and drill bit was NOT easy to change. Should a blowout occur, I would jam as many zip ties as needed (usually 2 or 3) into the hole, cut them flush then drive in the fastener. It was akin to a nylon insert and in most cases rock solid.
i here ya brother...i know for me personally (alot of commercial/industrial) needing taps-cons is a rare thing... although mostly thunder-studs, drop-ins or dbl-expansion type anchors are used most frequently....but hell, if i find myself in a more "tap-con" situation...its hard to beat good'ol, time tested plastic anchor
Damn . My house in Orlando is WW2 era, Portland cement poured block and pad construction. I've used hundreds of tapcons exactly how everyone else has for decades, with the same results of stripped or broken tapcons. This is a great improvement. Now I just need a $400.00 impact drill to hang pictures.
you are so right, this guy is a joke, this video is for people who have never used Tapcons before and wants to sell tools, i use tapcons always and no problems and i do not vac the holes, drill the hole and move the bit in and out moving the dust away with your finger to clean the hole and screw the tapcon in, that easy, he need to learn or show how to drill a hole first hahahaha, i have seen people almost get bits stuck because not cleaning the bit or hole and just keep drilling
been using this kit with my m12 rotary hammer it stays with my set up in its own packet box and never had a bad experience yet with it , applies correct drive and sets tap cons perfect every time , if you have not tried this you are missing out its the only way to use tap cons 100% perfect every time
You can’t vacuum out all of the debris from the hole unless you’re using something like a straw that’s smaller than the drilled hole to vacuum the debris directly from the bottom of the hole, not the top. You could use compressed air to blow out the debris. Clean it out correctly and you’ll have a lot less problems.
I usually never have an issue with tapcons but last time I used them on a job I ran into the same issue, even after drilling the holes long and vacuuming them out really good. A lot of them were binding up, couple of them snapped. I figured the bit supplied in kit was off diameter by a few thousands of an inch but I was also setting the fasteners with an impact.
It sounds funny, but ive used these 25 years ago. They have been forgotten about, but recenlty i bought a Bosch version and I impressed somebody so much that he took it. Dont know who, but at least he left my other tools untouched. Such a time saver, so good that I bought another one. 😁
The moment I saw that kit purchased it and set it on my boss's desk. Purchased another one to a buddy who is going to finish a room in his basement over the weekend. Both of them came back amazed that it could be that easy dealing with masonry because it's the right tool. Love the channel
Wow, "TAPCON" has been selling a set like that for years. Also, it didn't really look like you got all the dust out of the hole; the screw looked too long, and you over impacted the screw. A quick fix if you blow out the hole is to stick a zip tie in the hole and reinsert the screw. Works every time.
I've had the same Tapcon all in one set with a mint hard plastic case for 10+ years. Never an issue with tapcons ever. Milwaukee corded hammer, high for drill & low for driving in hammer setting
I've personally never had a problem using tapcons, which I use them almost daily. You have to drill the hole with a sds drill and not a drill/hammer combo. Then gently use your impact , stopping several times and back it out and then back in.
Ok, that is a cool accessory, and won’t cause to lose much time when doing multiples as can drill all holes, throw on the condrive and start settings the fasteners, w/o needing another tool. Nice. Thx Vince, ✌🏻
Use a dedicated hammer drill and I never clean out the hole ever unless I'm putting epoxy or something in the hole. Use a hex driver bit and an impact driver to put your screw in. That concrete dust compacts and helps hold the screw in. I've never had an issue with tapcons holding in.
I've been using that Milwaukee tapcon condrive set for years now. However, if I'm using utilizing 3/16 x 1-¼ tapcons I just us the supplied 5/32 bit on my m12 fuel hammer drill and a ¼ nut driver on my m12 fuel impact drive set on level 1. Haven't experienced too many probs. In my experience, if the drill bit was cockeyed in the drill or if the bit is bent and has a wobble, that's what will screw up the job.....was what I did their eh?? Lol pun intended. BUT AS ALWAYS VINCE MY MAN.....AWESOME AWESOME VIDEO. Look at that m18 fuel 1" rotary hammer make EASY WORK of that concrete.
The nut setter in these kits also have a bit of a collar. It allows the tapcon to slip out versus a regular nut setter that stays engaged. It functions like a clutch.
Did you see the HD sell online today? Dewalt 887, DCD 999, flex advantage 7 1/4 circ, 2 6ah flex volt, and a compact 4Ah I believe. $399. So pissed I missed it. They sold fast. Awesome video brother. New sub here. Concrete finisher from Louisville Kentucky so I’m very familiar with tapcon issues
I had to put up 1/2" plywood on a stucco brick wall. Used an impact with a t25 torx bit to drive 1-1/4" tapcons. Worked just fine. I used the provided mason bit that tapcon supplies. Just had to make sure I was counter-sinking the drill holes before driving the tapcon all they down to the plywood and then stopped immediately once it go there. This was to mount a video wall, and its super solid 1 month later.
Pass. I had one of these kits from tapcon over 5 yrs ago. It worked fine. Then I switched to the rotary hammer and recently got the Milwaukee kit. The Milwaukee kit is fine except the nut drivers. I use Milwaukee nut drivers but the ones in that kit suck. They have an extra part that sticks out from the hex part that bottoms out so the hex can’t grip and slips. I’ve always used a rotary hammer and an impact and had no issues
I haven’t had any issues with tapcons. I’ve always used my m18 drill hammer drill/drill from my m18 drill and impact set. Then I adjust the clutch on that drill down a few notches and drive them in. Good to go. I don’t see the need for the bigger heavier more expensive SDS and the kit.
What a beautiful tool was just on a job running thousands of feet of emt on concreat and used my ads and impact to do the job but just having the sds with that adapter would have lightened up my tool load and time so cool buying this now! Thank you for the video!
I always start with a smaller pilot hole, and usually pull the drill bit out several times as I go, to prevent dust clogging and ensure a clean hole. I only use the final size drill bit once I have the pilot hole drilled to full depth, so very little effort is needed and minimal wobble is introduced, preventing an excessively large hole. And to clean out a hole, especially on a flat surface like in the video, you really need a rubber squeeze bulb with a long nozzle, or a canned air duster. A vacuum alone won't do it. Or at least drill the hole extra deep, so that the excess dust has someplace to go. A regular hammer drill works fine if you do these things. Just use the clutch settings and driver mode, not the drill or hammer mode, when installing the fasteners.
I've never and I never have never seen anyone drill a tapcon hole that deep. I have always used a blue box "Tapcon tool kit" to set tapcons and I have NEVER stripped one out and I never had one freeze up before being driven to it's completion. I have never owned a "hammer drill," just a DeWalt 20 Volt cordless drill at home and at work. Ron W4BIN
Immediately bought that set to go with the Odd drill my daddy left me, and for which I had No Idea how to use it, until I watched your video. Now, the first time I put a screw into concrete, rock, etc. it will be a Slick Success! Thanks!
Lol... I was gleaming RUclips results for how to screw into lathe and plaster walls and came across your video, which at first glance appeared to be labeled, "never use tampons again!" (Anything else makes way more sense, even when I don't know what a tapcon is.) 😂
I definitely enjoy your videos. Can you do a video explaining when you would use different sized Phillips head because I honestly never know what size to use when sometimes two different sizes fit in the same fastener
I use tapcons almost every day and never really have a issue with them, if you work the drill in and out as you are drilling it makes a cleaner hole, also do the same when your putting the screw in.
Vince, Love it! Dang it! Now I need to pick up an SDS Driver to go with this kit. Oh, if only there were a magic RUclips channel that did tool deals. Man, wouldn’t that be great?!? Hey! Wait a second…..THIS IS a channel that features awesome tool deals along with product reviews and the latest and greatest tool info!!!Maybe you could work out a deal with OPT for the Very Cool Gang on an SDS Rotary Hammer Drill (Milwaukee preferably, but other platforms would be good too….DeWalt, Bosch, Metabo…etc.) C’mon Santa Vince. I know you’ve got one in ya to start the New Year off in style. Call it “Tap(Con) Into the New Year.” Or, “ Anchor Yourself for 2022.”
I drill no less than 200,000 tapcons a year installing drapes in hotels. We have all used this same driver system and nobody uses it more than a day. It is much more practical to carry a 2nd lightweight drill than to use a bulky sds all day to drive.
I have the Irwin kit. Similar to the Milwaukee. I’ve learned, drill the hole deeper than the fastener and don’t over drive it or it strips out. I use a 12 volt impact.
Are usually ream the hole a little larger and then stick a piece of Weedwhacker nylon cutting string in the hole then drive the tapcon in. The nylon string put enough pressure on the fastener that it cuts grooves into the concrete
Thanks for the good info and excellent demo. Hopefully it will stay in the memory bank until I get around to installing the rest of the vent wells on my house.
Now a days the tapcon flathead screws are t25 i believe, I know they're star drive now so the phillips #2 or 3 is useless in that kit unless you buy/use old tapcon screws
To prevent more embarrassment like 4:30, get Milwaukee to add a Multi-Cutter tool to their M12 lineup. Skil and Makita both have one in their 12v lines already.
At 1st I thought tapcon was cool but then after using them I found out that they really sucked I had the same issues with them snapping all the time or the holes not being drilled correctly with the drill bit that was it was supplied. I started using better drill bits and it fixed the problem.
Hes 100 right. The right tool is key. I build gazebo for a living and having a Ridgid hammer drill with SDS-Plus drill bits makes the job 20 x smoother and 20 x quicker. I struggled w the hammer drill setting on that exact same Milwaukee until I used a Ridgid Hammer drill w SDS plus bits. I couldn't believe the ease at which I could drill. No more putting all my weight and cooking my drill so it burned my hands...and toasting my bits. I just let the weight of the drill do the work.
Not only has Tapcon been selling a very similar kit for decades, Irwin Tools has virtually the same kit for at least ten years.
And according to Tapcon's instructions, always drill the hole 3/4" deeper than the fastener. I have been in the masonry trades for over 30 years, and seldom had a problem with a Tapcon if you use the right screw for the application.
I have been an electrician for 40 years and I have always hated Tapcon. I like caulking anchors with the expensive set tools. I like zinc mushroom anchors. I love my old variable power Hilti nail guns. I need to get my stuff mounted to the walls, ceilings, floors, make sure it's solid, and move on. I think I could actually come to like Tapcons if they always work this well and in all kinds of masonry. Concrete block (hollow) I will still opt for the hollow wall caulk anchors or mushrooms.
I am luke warm on drop in wdgeits, and plastic anchors are okay for some things like old red brick. Tapcon will blow out a lot of red brick.
I think his higher point is, don’t bother using a hammer drill and impact driver when fastening masonry.
I was thinking the same thing 😂😂👍
Ive used tapcons for a very long time. usually only have an issue if i dont clean the hole properly, or dont drill the hole deep enough, even with phillips head, but i dont like them as much.
I dont like having to carry around a fiddly little tool that is easy to drop, i always carry an impact, and use my skill.
This is a tool for the fools, or if you cant physically carry two tools imo. Lining up a heavy rotary hammer on a screw head, vs an ultralight brushless compact... it just kinda doesnt make sense
Tapcon was longer than the hole drilled. Tapcon also has had the same kit for at least the last ten years.
And I thought I was the only one who saw that.
Yes but tapcon bits burn out much quicker then milwaukee's
20 years probably. TBO I think it’s faster with a hammer drill with the bit and a impact to drive the tap con vs sliding the thing off and on as it requires two hands. Plus sometimes the sleeve drops to the bottom of your pouch and you have to dig around for it or it rolls away down a hill or under some equipment.
I think his hole was maybe deep enough, but I noticed his drill was wobbling so the bit might have been bent and the hole was enlarged as a result and the tapcon couldn’t grab.
Yeah I noticed, the tapcon bottomed out, this dude thinks we are idiots
Had a tap con kit for 20 years
I'm under 2 minutes into the video and I need to comment on your first hole already Mr. VCG, Vince. You are recommended to pull up at least 2x during your drilling of the hole. It clears the flutes.
I've installed 10's of thousands of different size tapcons. I believe it is also recommended by the manufacturer, there is definitely a learning curve and a feel to installing them without incident and without sacrificing holding strength.
I have been a trim carpenter for over 23 years this dude is a joke and he is a actor paid by Milwaukee
That was driving me crazy too. I was like PULL IT OUT FOR THE LOVE OF GOD.
Yup. I was taught exactly that way. For 15 years I can count maybe 8 tines that I destroyed a tapcon,and it was mostly operator error.
@@truthbetold1855My wife said that to me last night!
I watched more people run Tapcons wrong over the years and blame it on the Tapcons.Take your time ,keep the hole clean and run the hole longer than the fastener,the big ones I spray penetrating oil on the threads some times.Also if it feels like it's bottomed out it probably is and you need to back the thing out and drill deeper.
Yo Vince! Come on man! I just watched a video a week or so ago where you called out a certain vendor at a show for not comparing apples to apples. (Circular saw blade challenge) The first Tapcon you drove doesn't have threads the full length because it's designed to secure 2x material to concrete. The smooth shank is larger than the shank at the threads and therefore will strip out no matter how you drive it IF you drive it deeper than the threads. The Tapcons you drive with the tool you're trying to sell were all thread. I'm really disappointed. 😔
I knew i wasn't the only one who noticed , should of use same size tapcon 🤦♂️
And I agree, his credibility is hitting a new low. No two dollar holler for this demo.
Disagree. I’ve used that type of screw to secure thin materials to concrete. The smooth section is not bigger than the threads.
😲
@@jeremynguyen2346 it’s a brand of screws for concrete. Everyone sells them
I've never watched a video that felt more like an advertisement without actually being an ad.
i thought the same thing....
It was a infomercial
First tapcon was longer the other were shorter .the trick to driving tapcon is drill a bit deeper than screw length and vacuum dust from hole shouldn't have any problems
i use a pc duster (air can with tube) to blow the dust
And don't use Tapcon bits. I use Bosch bits.
Exactly ,and drill the roght size in the right material ,in stone you drill larger than in brick , in brick go with 5.5mm , stone 7mm, our tapcons are 7.5mm diameter
As a long time handyman, I've worked with a lot of tapcons over the years. First of all, Tapcon tells you right on the package and on their website to drive the screw with the hammer drill. It works. 😉
Also, I've found clearing out the dust and debris from the hole with a blow tool, not a vac works a lot better at removing more debris from the hole.
Definitely use a rotary hammer if you can. The shorter the time the bit spends turning in the hole the better off you are. If you're using a regular hammer drill. you should definitely be working it in and out to clear the dust. You're also absolutely correct to use canned air or an air compressor to blow out the hole. It's much more effective than a vac.
That just shows that both of you are about as clueless as him on how to do things the proper and safe way. 1, blowing with air does work, but you better be wearing good mask and sealed safety glasses, then if you are inside a house, plan on a lot of cleanup. They make a tool that looks like a baby snot suction thing, or use a drink straw with the vac hose.
I would ABSOLUTELY use this system if I had a lot of tapcons to run.
Had a small porch rail project recently with 12 holes into concrete, 3 of 12 screws froze 1/2" - 1" off the plate and my impact couldn't even reverse them out, one of the screws just plain snapped.
Having to cut them off flush and make new holes is always fun and not time consuming at all...
I prefer the expanding type, they're expensive but I just pay then forget about it. We would just call them concrete screws in the UK, never heard of a tap con til today.
I'm excited to give this a try. I set 3-500 tapcons a day in brick installing windows in buildings, whether it be curtain wall or residential. My SDS is my backbone and I just upgraded to the surge so the impact doesn't hit as hard and we have alot of blowout issues. I've got it down to a science but sometimes the brick is just too brittle.
Lobe seeing these videos, especially when they have something that could potentially help me and the rest of my crew!
Agree on using the Surge to drive the tapcons in. The Gen 3 is too powerful and in my experience either blows out the hole or snaps the tapcon in half. I’m a DIYer and not a pro like yourself, so could be partly user error on my part. If I use the Gen 3 again in the future, I’ll probably set it on Speed 1 after drilling the hole and won’t be depressing the trigger all the way. The Gen 3 on Speed 1 is still really powerful compared to other impact drivers with 3 or 4 modes.
@@SouthFLTools In my experience with the gen three just hits much harder, but its easy to figure out as time and experience come. I bought the surges because my guys didn't have time for trial and error and they're too stubborn to take their time and ease the fastener in, instead they ram it in and just let it happen.
From a fellow DIYer though (prior to getting in the trades) Don't stress the fasteners too much, they will break, they will blow. Just get the science down and learn the feeling of when to let off the trigger. That goes for all fasteners, but especially tapcons and lag bolts. If I had to give myself advice years ago, it would be not to bump the power down, but to let off as soon as the fastener snugs down, then give it a couple extra bumps. You'll end up learning how it feels when it gets close to snug and you'll feel the torque it has when it's as tight as you like. Down the road, you'll use less bumps and break/blow a fraction of the amount of fasteners!
Just don't give up on it. Most DIYers I know are too easy to give up and say "Well that didn't work for me, ill let a professional do it." Just be stubborn with it and keep at it. You'll get to the point that you'll only use the 1 setting for trim screws and such!
@@austinb1800 wow, that’s very detailed advice and very much appreciated. Thank you sir! I’m not one to give up easily. I have the tools to do the job, so I’d rather try it myself as opposed to hiring a handyman or somebody else. I actually have a small job coming up to install a couple of wall mount hooks that will require 4 holes in my garage walls, which is made out of concrete block. I’m just going to take my time with it, make sure the holes are drilled in at a good depth and that they are properly cleaned out, prior to fastening with the Gen 3. I’ll probably still set it on speed 1 and slowly fasten the tapcon, so I can hear the impacting at the very end. Just want to make sure that I’m not damaging the material or the screws at at a higher speed, so I’ll probably play it safe. Thanks again for the insight 👍
@@SouthFLTools that's a good project to try it out on, because if you blow the holes out, you can always drill bigger and epoxy some studs in if you blow out too many times! Good luck with it, and I hope it goes well! Successful projects bring confidence needed to take on bigger and more exciting jobs!
Hear that clicking sound? That's the sound of a misleading clickbait title for a Milwaukee ad.
I have never had a problem with tapcons. He never cleaned the dust out of the hole with the drill bit. You have to use the drill bit to clean the hole out the vacuum doesn’t get the dust out. In new concrete you may have to clean it several times. I have used thousands of tapcons never had a problem using this method.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Cool, thanks
Exactly this is a gimmick
Right? To be sure, ream the first 3/8-1/2" of the hole w the next size up to make room for any dust the threads create and feed up. This tool's basically for DIYers and Milwaukee fan boys.
agree, use drill bit to clean hole and drill hole deeper than fastener
I've been an iron worker for about 18 years and the thing we do whenever we roll her Hammer into the concrete for redheads or anchor bolts is you have to relieve the hole that you're drilling by going up and down with your rotor Hammer to pull out all the powder that's inside of it that allows the bit or screw or redhead or anchor bolt to go all the way or it needs to be
Exactly.
I've been an iron worker for 7 months, and I can say that a welding rod doesn't do nearly as good a job evacuating the hole as a bendy straw does.
That is awesome! I have walked past that kit at HD plenty of times. Adding it to the to buy list. Even if that prevents one hole in the concrete from stripping out, then it was well worth the price. When fastening to concrete, in my experience, there isn’t much room for error. It’s either a bracket, fixture, box, support strap that needs to be anchored in the spot where the hole is drilled out. Well worth the $35 to keep from scrambling to figure out what to do when if the hole strips out or a fastener breaks. Great kit! Have an awesome night!
I've never been in any of the construction trades, just in maintenance and a DIYer, and have been using Tapcons for almost 35 years with no issues, following manufacturers recommendations and common sense. I always blow out the debris in the hole, never use a vac.
Man, I've snapped way too many Tapcons in my day - including today - so I finally told myself to search for an alternative. To be perfectly honest, though, I've never blown out the holes that I've always drilled with a Makita SDS Hammer Drill. I'm an old traditional timber framer, so metal fasteners are not my specialty. Regardless, I'm always willing to learn, so are you saying that the instructions included with Tapcon brand concrete fasteners are thorough enough to prevent one from either having the fastener seize up in the hole prematurely or simply break off in the hole? Although I've never cleaned out the holes that I drill with our Makita SDS Hammer Drill, I have always made it a habit to drill the holes deeper than the fastener being used. Thank you for any advice you may be willing to share with an old overseas vet.
2nd comment - OK, now I've watched the whole video. I'm a huge Milwaukee supporter don't get me wrong. Hilti has had a Kwik-con ll driver kit for years. (I believe that's what they call it) It's close to the same deal, but comes with a hard case AND the Torx bits as well. I believe Tapcon has one as well, whoever it is, the kit comes in an orange colored hard case.
Tip #1 - that guage doesn't always fit in tight spots and sometimes loosens up. Hold up the length of tapcon you are using against the bit and add a half of an inch usually and wrap it with a little electrical,masking,duct tape, or hold a piece of paper around the bit and spray it with some orange marking paint or whatever color is available. Every contractor typically has marking paint. There's your gauge that doesn't get in the way!
Tip #2 - of you don't pull the bit out a couple times to clear the flutes while drilling, the "drillings/dust" will get SOOO packed onto the sides of your hole, the vacuum won't take it out. Try it, after you vacuum out the hole, slide a small screwdriver or a punch down into the hole and the grindings will be packed against the sides
Clutch thing is cool, especially for DIYers and people who keep snapping them. I gave my tapcon drill bit things away, because it’s easier to have two drills going IMO. My tool bag is already too heavy, especially for single-task tools.
Loved this tool ever since I got it. It’s speeds up productivity. I still use the box from my original Bosch set. I prefer a hard case with clips vs the elastic soft pouches
Best way I found to not have issues is to drill your main hole with appropriate size then use a drill bit one size bigger to drill in the hole approximately a 1/4 to 1/2 inch ...never had a issue since using this method.
Yeah lol
You are 100 correct. Tapcons kit hit the market when Tapcons first did.
Same
Texas Tapcons have saved me hundreds when they can be substituted. A old Union Carpenter showed me how. Always be grateful for knowledge. It’s just as valuable as money.
You seem to be implying there is a clutch in that drive sleeve. It’s just a sleeve. Your hex head tapcon counter-sunk down so the nut setter bottomed on the concrete and couldn’t engage much like a drywall screw setter - it was skipping. The second Philips bit stopped/slowed because of the clutch on your rotary hammer as all have. You can still snap a screw with it. This is to keep you from fiddling with as many bits and letting you use one tool, just like the tapcon branded 1/4” hex kit they copied it from.
It’s a really poor video overall, all just trying to get the ignorant to click and buy.
-Bad drilling
-Bad hole cleaning
-Bad explanation of the tool
-Bad fastening
-Bad sales tactics
I have the same set in tapcon brand that I have been using for about 15 years. Works great.
After working on bridges for a little and watching the carpenter guys build the frames for patching holes and stuff on the Piers I stopped using tap cons all I use now after drilling my hole getting wire that you tie rebar with put a piece of that in the hole little longer where it stick out and use a duplex nail and man that is a pretty good system keeps it nice and tight
For several years my entire trade revolved around using tapcons. The problems you describe happen only because someone lacks the finesse and basic skill to do it right.
I love it because Vince always looks so happy when he’s posing for the merch store. So wholesome
I like to give him a dollar when he's doing his live show so I can hear my name get mentioned. "Thank you for that 1 doller holler"
Have installed a lot of tapcons over the years. I have a set like that from Simpson I believe. It rarely leaves it's spot on the truck. Just to long and bulky in my humble opinion. I find that the keys to no problems are a quality masonry bit and thoroughly cleaning the hole, and even then, once in a while you'll get a 3"+ that won't want to set correctly due to waste in the hole. Maybe one of these days, I'll try all of the kit out again. I have used the individual pieces though. 👍
A step up from the "CONSERT TOOL" I've been using for decades. Drill bit automatically retracts into the tool as you finished drilling. Then place the appropriate drive bit and drive the fastener. I only had a hammer drill back then and set the clutch as needed on the drill.
CONSERT TOOL had no clutch and drill bit was NOT easy to change.
Should a blowout occur, I would jam as many zip ties as needed (usually 2 or 3) into the hole, cut them flush then drive in the fastener. It was akin to a nylon insert and in most cases rock solid.
Rebar tie wire works great too
Bah... Already seen equivalent... Never needed to use it. Being a sparky, we always have some wire to stuff in a stripped out hole.
i here ya brother...i know for me personally (alot of commercial/industrial) needing taps-cons is a rare thing... although mostly thunder-studs, drop-ins or dbl-expansion type anchors are used most frequently....but hell, if i find myself in a more "tap-con" situation...its hard to beat good'ol, time tested plastic anchor
That’s true I see it all over the floor every day. And you say us plumbers are messy
Damn . My house in Orlando is WW2 era, Portland cement poured block and pad construction. I've used hundreds of tapcons exactly how everyone else has for decades, with the same results of stripped or broken tapcons. This is a great improvement. Now I just need a $400.00 impact drill to hang pictures.
I've used a lot of tapcons and I never had that much trouble with them. Drill it deep, clean it out, screw it in.
you are so right, this guy is a joke, this video is for people who have never used Tapcons before and wants to sell tools, i use tapcons always and no problems and i do not vac the holes, drill the hole and move the bit in and out moving the dust away with your finger to clean the hole and screw the tapcon in, that easy, he need to learn or show how to drill a hole first hahahaha, i have seen people almost get bits stuck because not cleaning the bit or hole and just keep drilling
He gets paid to say a lot of bull crap
And the title says never use tap cons again but he still using tap cons
@@butchs2337 that's right
I use Milwaukee tools at work every day they are the best and most innovative tool company IMO i want that kit in a small pack out
been using this kit with my m12 rotary hammer it stays with my set up in its own packet box and never had a bad experience yet with it , applies correct drive and sets tap cons perfect every time , if you have not tried this you are missing out its the only way to use tap cons 100% perfect every time
Cool! Not overdriving the tapcons is the key to a solid, tight job.
Yup! 👍🏻
You can’t vacuum out all of the debris from the hole unless you’re using something like a straw that’s smaller than the drilled hole to vacuum the debris directly from the bottom of the hole, not the top. You could use compressed air to blow out the debris.
Clean it out correctly and you’ll have a lot less problems.
I learned this from your mom
I usually never have an issue with tapcons but last time I used them on a job I ran into the same issue, even after drilling the holes long and vacuuming them out really good. A lot of them were binding up, couple of them snapped. I figured the bit supplied in kit was off diameter by a few thousands of an inch but I was also setting the fasteners with an impact.
In my experience I’ve only ever had longer tapcons bind/break. Why wouldn’t you test the new gear with the same length fastener so you had a constant?
Cuz this channel is a glorified informercial..
I love how you show the frustration and fiddling with packaging and storage.
It sounds funny, but ive used these 25 years ago. They have been forgotten about, but recenlty i bought a Bosch version and I impressed somebody so much that he took it. Dont know who, but at least he left my other tools untouched.
Such a time saver, so good that I bought another one.
😁
There’s nothing wrong with tapcons. There is something wrong with the person doing the work. Operator error….
They are overall, a shitty product. There are so many better anchors out there.
I've used this similar product. We called it a bit and barrel. Works just as good as other method but does speed up production.
The moment I saw that kit purchased it and set it on my boss's desk. Purchased another one to a buddy who is going to finish a room in his basement over the weekend. Both of them came back amazed that it could be that easy dealing with masonry because it's the right tool. Love the channel
Nice I've done the traditional way you showed never had a problem. Yet I can see if doing this a lot having that kit is helpful.
Wow, "TAPCON" has been selling a set like that for years. Also, it didn't really look like you got all the dust out of the hole; the screw looked too long, and you over impacted the screw. A quick fix if you blow out the hole is to stick a zip tie in the hole and reinsert the screw. Works every time.
I believe the point is that there is another option out there. Maybe I'm wrong
Plus I'm sure being Milwaukee he gets some type of % or perk by showing their stuff off. Kinda the point of YT channels these days
this actually seems better than purchasing flip toggles to correct my tapcon user error 🙀
Nice. I thought I was doing something wrong whenever I would snap or strip a tapcon. I'm going to look into this tool. Thanks, Vince.
Thanks Cuz! 👍🏻
@@VCGConstruction also thanks for the video that you posted 2 years ago with a competitors solution! Love the content bro!
I've had the same Tapcon all in one set with a mint hard plastic case for 10+ years. Never an issue with tapcons ever. Milwaukee corded hammer, high for drill & low for driving in hammer setting
I've personally never had a problem using tapcons, which I use them almost daily. You have to drill the hole with a sds drill and not a drill/hammer combo. Then gently use your impact , stopping several times and back it out and then back in.
Ok, that is a cool accessory, and won’t cause to lose much time when doing multiples as can drill all holes, throw on the condrive and start settings the fasteners, w/o needing another tool. Nice.
Thx Vince, ✌🏻
Right on
Use a dedicated hammer drill and I never clean out the hole ever unless I'm putting epoxy or something in the hole. Use a hex driver bit and an impact driver to put your screw in. That concrete dust compacts and helps hold the screw in. I've never had an issue with tapcons holding in.
I've been using that Milwaukee tapcon condrive set for years now. However, if I'm using utilizing 3/16 x 1-¼ tapcons I just us the supplied 5/32 bit on my m12 fuel hammer drill and a ¼ nut driver on my m12 fuel impact drive set on level 1. Haven't experienced too many probs. In my experience, if the drill bit was cockeyed in the drill or if the bit is bent and has a wobble, that's what will screw up the job.....was what I did their eh?? Lol pun intended. BUT AS ALWAYS VINCE MY MAN.....AWESOME AWESOME VIDEO. Look at that m18 fuel 1" rotary hammer make EASY WORK of that concrete.
The nut setter in these kits also have a bit of a collar. It allows the tapcon to slip out versus a regular nut setter that stays engaged. It functions like a clutch.
Did you see the HD sell online today? Dewalt 887, DCD 999, flex advantage 7 1/4 circ, 2 6ah flex volt, and a compact 4Ah I believe. $399. So pissed I missed it. They sold fast. Awesome video brother. New sub here. Concrete finisher from Louisville Kentucky so I’m very familiar with tapcon issues
Sale not sell
@@illestofdemall13 thanks bro. I didn’t catch that. Appreciate it brother
Didn’t see it, thanks for the heads up
Thought this was a video about a new concrete fastener. Turned out to be a commercial for Milwaukee.
There went 10 minutes of my life I will never get back.
I had to put up 1/2" plywood on a stucco brick wall. Used an impact with a t25 torx bit to drive 1-1/4" tapcons. Worked just fine. I used the provided mason bit that tapcon supplies. Just had to make sure I was counter-sinking the drill holes before driving the tapcon all they down to the plywood and then stopped immediately once it go there. This was to mount a video wall, and its super solid 1 month later.
I always had trouble with tapcons. Definitely looking at this for future use. Thanks for the information
The first time I used a rotary hammer it blew my mind. I had no idea it was that much better.
Pass. I had one of these kits from tapcon over 5 yrs ago. It worked fine. Then I switched to the rotary hammer and recently got the Milwaukee kit. The Milwaukee kit is fine except the nut drivers. I use Milwaukee nut drivers but the ones in that kit suck. They have an extra part that sticks out from the hex part that bottoms out so the hex can’t grip and slips. I’ve always used a rotary hammer and an impact and had no issues
I haven’t had any issues with tapcons. I’ve always used my m18 drill hammer drill/drill from my m18 drill and impact set. Then I adjust the clutch on that drill down a few notches and drive them in. Good to go. I don’t see the need for the bigger heavier more expensive SDS and the kit.
Yeah same here. I love tapcons. They always work well for me.
Yeeeeeeeeooooo Vince once again awesome video, I wish my tapcons would've went in that easy 🤣
Appreciate the time taken for us that don't know it all.
Thanks Jim, we appreciate it! 👍🏻
Hope all of the VCG gang is having a good evening!
I've been tempted to buy that kit a few times, I really should.
I have never had a tapcon screw failure on install or after install. I love the tapcon!
What a beautiful tool was just on a job running thousands of feet of emt on concreat and used my ads and impact to do the job but just having the sds with that adapter would have lightened up my tool load and time so cool buying this now! Thank you for the video!
Really Cool Vince I just bought the Diablo version can't wait to try it
unironically thought the title said tampons i was so confused LMAO
That’s a brilliant solution. Thanks for the video on that. That’s my next purchase.
I always start with a smaller pilot hole, and usually pull the drill bit out several times as I go, to prevent dust clogging and ensure a clean hole.
I only use the final size drill bit once I have the pilot hole drilled to full depth, so very little effort is needed and minimal wobble is introduced, preventing an excessively large hole.
And to clean out a hole, especially on a flat surface like in the video, you really need a rubber squeeze bulb with a long nozzle, or a canned air duster. A vacuum alone won't do it.
Or at least drill the hole extra deep, so that the excess dust has someplace to go.
A regular hammer drill works fine if you do these things. Just use the clutch settings and driver mode, not the drill or hammer mode, when installing the fasteners.
Looks like a great tool, are you setting it with hammer/drive or just drive?
Sounded like hammer
Rotary hammer only has hammer mode
@@stonewintjen505 no, has drill, hammer drill, and hammer only
Every time I have used Tapcons they have worked perfectly.
I've never and I never have never seen anyone drill a tapcon hole that deep. I have always used a blue box "Tapcon tool kit" to set tapcons and I have NEVER stripped one out and I never had one freeze up before being driven to it's completion. I have never owned a "hammer drill," just a DeWalt 20 Volt cordless drill at home and at work. Ron W4BIN
Immediately bought that set to go with the Odd drill my daddy left me,
and for which I had No Idea how to use it,
until I watched your video.
Now, the first time I put a screw into concrete, rock, etc.
it will be a Slick Success!
Thanks!
Lol... I was gleaming RUclips results for how to screw into lathe and plaster walls and came across your video, which at first glance appeared to be labeled, "never use tampons again!" (Anything else makes way more sense, even when I don't know what a tapcon is.) 😂
That bit setvis awesome! I use it alot. Love it! Thanks Vince, love your videos
Awesome! Thank you!
I definitely enjoy your videos. Can you do a video explaining when you would use different sized Phillips head because I honestly never know what size to use when sometimes two different sizes fit in the same fastener
Sure thing!
A ph#3 should not fit in a ph#2, but a ph#2 should easily and loosely fit into a ph#3.
@@jsmith5443 exactly but I never know which is which so if they both fit into a 3 how do I tell the proper fit
@@jeremysanchez9049 Use the largest size phillips bit that will fit into the fastener.
Toolies approve of this method.....great Job Vance even if claudes been doin it this way for years...better late than never....
hahahahhah!
I saw a guy use a ratchet with socket instead of drilling the screw in. It worked!
I've had terrible luck with tapcon. I'll give it a try
I see Milwaukee gave you gear to wear for the promo 👍👍👍
Milwaukee done great in this making the sds drill as usefull as possible
I use tapcons almost every day and never really have a issue with them, if you work the drill in and out as you are drilling it makes a cleaner hole, also do the same when your putting the screw in.
Vince, Love it! Dang it! Now I need to pick up an SDS Driver to go with this kit. Oh, if only there were a magic RUclips channel that did tool deals. Man, wouldn’t that be great?!? Hey! Wait a second…..THIS IS a channel that features awesome tool deals along with product reviews and the latest and greatest tool info!!!Maybe you could work out a deal with OPT for the Very Cool Gang on an SDS Rotary Hammer Drill (Milwaukee preferably, but other platforms would be good too….DeWalt, Bosch, Metabo…etc.) C’mon Santa Vince. I know you’ve got one in ya to start the New Year off in style. Call it “Tap(Con) Into the New Year.” Or, “ Anchor Yourself for 2022.”
This would be great for all kinds of fasteners. Wonder if it could be used for more than tapcons.
Definitely a life saver on the Tapcons!
I drill no less than 200,000 tapcons a year installing drapes in hotels. We have all used this same driver system and nobody uses it more than a day. It is much more practical to carry a 2nd lightweight drill than to use a bulky sds all day to drive.
This kit sounds AMAZING
You are supposed to back out the tap con and then drive it back down when it stops short. Thought everyone already knew that.
I have the Irwin kit. Similar to the Milwaukee. I’ve learned, drill the hole deeper than the fastener and don’t over drive it or it strips out. I use a 12 volt impact.
All I can say is well, well well. I knew there had to be an answer. Thanks, Vince.
tapcon and hilti have been making that exact kit forever!
Are usually ream the hole a little larger and then stick a piece of Weedwhacker nylon cutting string in the hole then drive the tapcon in. The nylon string put enough pressure on the fastener that it cuts grooves into the concrete
I like this Milwaukee set up. Thanks Vince 💪👍
Thanks for the good info and excellent demo. Hopefully it will stay in the memory bank until I get around to installing the rest of the vent wells on my house.
Thanks Diana!
Now a days the tapcon flathead screws are t25 i believe, I know they're star drive now so the phillips #2 or 3 is useless in that kit unless you buy/use old tapcon screws
I like Milwaukee tools- nice Milwaukee commercial 👍😊
I'm trying to figure out why the title of this video is "Never Use Tapcons Again!" when he's selling you a kit to use Tapcon screws?
To prevent more embarrassment like 4:30, get Milwaukee to add a Multi-Cutter tool to their M12 lineup. Skil and Makita both have one in their 12v lines already.
At 1st I thought tapcon was cool but then after using them I found out that they really sucked I had the same issues with them snapping all the time or the holes not being drilled correctly with the drill bit that was it was supplied. I started using better drill bits and it fixed the problem.
Hes 100 right. The right tool is key. I build gazebo for a living and having a Ridgid hammer drill with SDS-Plus drill bits makes the job 20 x smoother and 20 x quicker.
I struggled w the hammer drill setting on that exact same Milwaukee until I used a Ridgid Hammer drill w SDS plus bits. I couldn't believe the ease at which I could drill. No more putting all my weight and cooking my drill so it burned my hands...and toasting my bits. I just let the weight of the drill do the work.
Great job Vince! Thanks for video. Gonna get the kit! Screw the haters!
Nice tool definitely looking into it I hate having to use tapcons
Tapcon has made a kit that is almost exactly the same for years