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I think he _screwed_ up in omitting the 1½" double lead thread square drive floor screw. I would replace the shirt drywall screw with this one in some cases. For example, in securing thin plywood such as 5/16 mahogany as shelf backing. Excellent recommendations otherwise! : )
I just wanted to say thanks for all that you do. I have learned so much - everything from the magnet/stud trick, to using a 5 in 1 tool, and mastering a circular saw. Your videos are to the point and always full of helpful and practical information. Seriously, thanks!
The Honest Carpenter channel is one of the DIY channels on youtube that I've used to supplement my online learning material for DIY projects & carpentry! The best part is that such knowledge is free and way better than the stuff many community colleges put out there for an expensive tuition fee!
I've switched almost entirely to spax screws; they have all the types you listed, plus powerlags, which I like a lot. Pocket screws and a pocket hole jig are worth keeping around too. Something I like to do when buying screws is always buy more than I need, even if I only need a few. It lets me build up an inventory for future projects.
@@NWGR and the driver bits they come with seem to last really long. I've been using the same bit for years, through multiple large boxes of spax screws.
I never liked drywall screws, all the ones I ever used were super easy to break, a lot of time as they are driven in they snap right off, they are very brittle. I like the star drive deck screws
I.use drywall screws a lot too, but my experience is the same as Mr. HoBby above. The screw goes in but as you "snug" it down the head snaps off. Of course, if this happens once, I pilot drill and sometimes lubricate but if you know that the wood is hard or tough I use a beefier screw . M aybe square drive.
@@melmo5218 My old room mate was trying to do something with drywall screws and was losing his shit because the heads kept torquing off. He was using an impact driver. If you're having the heads come off a lot, use a drill with torque control.
@@melmo5218 Hardwood - always pilot drill. Softwoods like pine - pilot hole if you're going to angle drill through the end grain but otherwise just drive straight in. Unless it's a thin trim piece.
I got a rigid pack out container and got pretty much every screw from 3/4" up to 3" and found that having all the sizes available is fantastic. Plus, torx bits for life
Ethan, I always use Deck Screws for all of my large projects. They are easy to drill and they stay in the wood very well. Thank you for all that you do for people like me. You are the "honest carpenter" and your videos are top shelf.
With screws, 1" of screw past what you are screwing into is often sufficient. I rarely use a 3" screw. A 2 1/2" will secure two 2x4s together just fine. The problem lies with trying to use a 3" with both 2x4s sideways, the tip often pokes out. I don't keep 3" screws in my professional kit, I keep 2 1/2, and I warranty my work. My go to sizes are 1 1/4", 1 5/8", 2 1/2" grip rite construction screws. Deck screws if I'm outdoors. Other fasteners I like. My cadex 23ga pin nailer (it can shoot 23ga brad nails, not just headless pins), and both the narrow and wide crown stapler (staples are damn strong) I also keep concrete nails in my kit, but I'm a Mason, they might also be getting phased out due to the new glue trick I've found. If you haven't seen the tape, CA glue, and spray activator trick, go check it out! It's changed my life overnight! Intans cleats, guides, ledger boards, removable clamp surface, you name it! I used it yesterday to keep 2 different thickness hardwoods perfectly flush together, a hardwood stair nosing made to match a hardwood floor.
I have recently bought a new home which was previously owned by a carpenter! There is a workshop which is a great bonus! There are probably 60 boxes of screws of every description you can think of! Sadly, they are all slot headed! I simply don't have the heart to throw them away, and many are top quality that goes along with some of the furniture he made! The old guy passed away last year aged 97 - and he never left a saw unsharpened, or a chisel without a keen edge! The blades on his hand planes is a joy to behold, and his long plane is a Stanley Bailey, made in USA which will only be of interest to a real enthusiast and in remarkable condition given its age! Thank you for your insight into a basic stock of usable screws, I will certainly be taking your suggestion on board- though perhaps with a couple of additional types! It will certainly clear up a lot of shelf space!
I bought a house like that too. With the shed in the back. Which I thought was a hidden treasure of nuts and bolts and screws in little homemade drawers. Like you mostly flat heads and for sided nuts. (Stove bolts.)Wonder if this was a distant cousin?
Totally agree with your selection of screws to have on hand. I started doing carpentry long before dry wall screws and cordless drivers - and wouldn't go back to those "good old days" for anything!
I recently switched to torx for nearly everything - T25 for general use and T15 for trim. Almost impossible to deform the head so they are especially good for temp work that you will dismantle or anything you might need to unscrew in the future. My on hand sizes are 3”, 2 1/2”, and 1 5/8”.
After I've nearly depleted my massive collection of pozidriv screws, I'll absolutely go for Torx screws. Torx heads are so durable and easy to drive! 😍
@@RondeLeeuw Honestly, I would just get rid of the philips, and go get you some torx. You'll be much happier. No more srtipped headaches. Sell them to some sucker.
Great list! If I had to add a 6th screw, it would be cabinet screws, the type with a washer-shaped head. I keep a variety of lengths on hand. They are great when you need a lot of holding power on the top surface and they look more attractive and "finished" than philips head screws with their brass color and star bit.
@@stopthephilosophicalzombie9017Sure, the heads are meant to be plastered and painted over. That's why something built with drywall screws looks extra cheap.
@@bridgecrossYeah but backyard carpenters like me always end up using them anyway. I'm going to get some proper cabinet screws and/or finishing nails for my next project lol
I think you are referring to a spax power lag screw. Basically a thin lag bolt and washer made with a t20 drive. I get plenty of holding power from grip rite construction screws. They have assumed the top position in my kit of screws for my use in construction. I consider it the perfect wood screw, besides the pocket hole. It also basically eliminates the need to predrill or countersink, saving more time and tools! I might use a spax on a gate or something @ the hinge side.
GRK R4 screws are my standard for anything I build with framing lumber. They're Torx but I think the shortest they make is 2", so they'll poke through smaller things made of 2 layers of 1-by. Grip Rite makes 8x1-1/4" construction screws with the same T25 drive but they don't self-drill as well as the R4s. For smaller hobby projects it's almost impossible to find anything decent since most of the industry (and more importantly big retailers) are still under the hopeless delusion that the Philips drive is useful for anything at all.
A good list. For interior work consider T25 Construction Screws instead of Deck Screws. They are 2/3 the cost, so some of both on hand can money depending on the application.
Torx are terrible if outside and need removing in the future. The torx head more often than not strips, so you end up manually starting everyone before a power driver can be used. Just dismantled and moved a shed where they used these all over the roof, had to cut most of them out.
@@royster3345 I've had the opposite experience. I only use torx screws because they almost never strip out. I've removed screws from outside projects (near the ocean) that are several years old without any problems.
@@royster3345 it's very possible that you were using the wrong bit (T25 for a T27, for example). Really the only times I've had trouble with torx I later realized that the bit I was using was too small but large enough to still grab the screws, and inevitably strip them out. I've seen it happen with plenty of other carpenters, so please don't take this as an insult. One thing I've found to be helpful when dealing with a stripped torx screw is to use a Allen bit. More often than not, I have one that fits tight enough in a stripped torx to be able to remove it. (and then fasten it and remove it and fasten it yet again but just far enough to where you need pliers to get it to move, but my laziness is besides the point).
@@schwuzi Given the replies, I must just be unlucky then, the T25 ones I had to remove were steel, rusted, the heads full of dirt, and solid to remove. After many heads stripped I used a manual torx to try and loosen the screw (these were all 10cms long). Some snapped off the head, some came loose, but plenty just took out the torx splines in the screw head. I then had to use a hole cutter to cut the board free, and an angle grinder on the screw.
My goto screws for years has been the zink yellow/gold multipurpose screws in several lengths from the box stores. The zink helps with rust prevention although they are not exterior screws. For exterior use you need a coated screw as in your video. Good job, I appreciate your channel.
Keeping extra screws you get from installation kits is an excellent suggestion. It can save a trip to the hardware store because you need something a particular size or type.
Yeah. On my ancient car, I ran into a problem when the entire OG install kit for the license plate on my rear bumper basically fell apart and I couldn't attach the new one they sent me a few years back after pulling the old one off. Pulled out my huge coffee can full of this type of stuff and was able to find what I needed to get her on their tight without having to go to the hardware store. I can't even say how many times I've been able to dip into that thing and find a fix for something or other that needed fixing.
Yes but put them in a glass jar. I spend most of my time looking for stuff not fixing as every thing are in plastic trays or boxes which you can not see through. I am going to reorganise my shed in the summer and will use mainly glass jars. The old fashioned screwing the jar lid to the underside of a shelf and glass jar hanging down, so that you see at a glance what you have.
Wife came up with the idea that we're currently using: wrap in paper, label, then tape to the underside or inside a drawer or somewhere on the furniture piece! Then you won't have to go fishing them out of a jar :-)
@@tonysheerness2427 hehe, luckily I've got plenty of those glass jars from store bought pasta sauce and most of them fit on make shift shelves made in between 2x lumber. You can literally build shelving into the walls of your garage if you don't have drywall up that'll fit these glass jars no issue.
One screw I can not do without is the self-tapping lathe screws. They're great for anything with a keyhole. They also will drill through sheet metal. They have a nice big, flat underside (washer-head), so you often don't need a washer if you want better surface hold. I use (and re-use) them all the time.
Great video. I am slowly getting comfortable in the fastener aisle, but I am still in awe of the variety. This helps a lot. I will just add that I like to disassemble things that are broken and salvage specialty fasteners. I recently had a space heater die and instead of just chucking it I took it apart and got a tonne of metal screws, the short ones for gutters and self tapping ones. Obviously have to be careful with taking these things apart, but they can be a treasure trove.
I do the same. I also repair my own vehicles and do the same thing. When I go to the junk yard for something I'm always taking some extra fasteners AND electrical connectors.
One more recommendation is Roofing screws with a large washer in case of a roof leak, I used them to screw down tarp metal rings down on to the roof, always good to have a way to cover your roof in case of leaks or damage from weather.
This is an excellent educational video on screws. Gives me a reason to use my Home Depot gift card and stock up on all the screws you recommended. Thank you!!
I would have added construction screws. Strongest screws available for the diameter size. For when you really don't want a failure, such as stair hand rails or grab bars. Maybe next a video explaining all the washer? Keep the videos coming! I do maintenance and need to know a lot about a lot and quality, experienced knowledge is gold.
Got a bucket of all them fasteners in my garage and basement box… you are spot on and sharply pointed! I also would have added, try to reuse or salvage the screws from material when taking down or disassembling- as long as the screws are not warped or badly weathered, I’ve probably saved couple hundred of them from projects I built and then reconsidered later. My neighbor, who would be considered an older baby-boomer, also gave me his mason jars and garage drawers that were filled with every type of screw he collected over his many years, which initially had me to keep my fasteners too. Cheers
I would add 1/2 - 1in lath screws. The washer head is great for resisting pull thru and do a better job at mounting items to plywood. I use them for small casters and for cord organization along with zip ties with screw holes.
you must be talking about what we call K-lath screws. washer head with a needle point. they're great for securing things to any kind of engineered wood sheet material. I use them for putting things on cabinetry.
I am guessing you are referring to what I know as 'modified truss head screws' as what I knew as actual truss (metal framing) are these annoying little black screws that are a pain)
@@MrOpinionCantSignIn yes, the head is also called a modified truss head. if you want to see the exact screw, it's a K-lath metal piercing screw. the needle point and the long taper make it penetrate and hold well in cabinetry panels.
Hey Ethan. I watched a video a couple weeks ago, and learned something cool. It seems obvious, but I'm self taught, so I'm never surprised to learn something simple. I have always wondered why there was a space at the top of the threading on some screws. I assumed it was for clear out of dust, but this video corrected me. He explained, and showed examples, why it's there, and he says it is because you don't want the threads to grab both pieces, but rather only the back/bottom piece. And he is right, it gives a much tighter seam.... if the thread is in the top piece, it is still holding it, but if it is only on the second piece, the top piece can slide on that screw now, and the head is able to slide it down the screw and press it right up against the second board. .... for glued seams, definitely it is better, if not gluing, Idk, still seems better there though, too. ... Make sense to you? Peace
I work on cabinets and use the trim screws quite a bit. I particularly like the GRK brand because of the counter clockwise threads towards the head that help join pieces better. I use them a lot as reinforcements between cabinet boxes. The best thing I've discovered is to glue in 3/16" dowels to fill in the hole instead of wood filler when you sink them deep. It leaves a clean finish.
Have you tried grip rite construction screws? They are similar to a spax trim screw, just with a little larger head for more grabbing power. Might still need to countersink the Baltic birch ply, but the regular stuff will countersink fine with its self burrowing head. Makes installing the ply for the countertop a breeze. Also great for screwing lumber together.
I completely agree regarding deck screws, and I keep numerous lengths, but all are coated whether I’m using for interior or exterior. One that is not on your list is an Everbilt #8 pan head, but it’s not your typical Panhead, because the head is wide. Almost squished flat. The picture on the box shows the screw holding up expanded metal or mesh wire. This is a great screw because the number eight size is excellent to accommodate most mounting holes and the extra wide head provides a great clamping surface.
@@TheHonestCarpenter Have to agree. Appreciate you listing links as it makes it so much easier to order something I have forgotten when I'm out and about.
Great video. A lot of these I have learned about thru sheer frustration when looking for fasteners. This will help me and others and save us the head pounding!
I'm not surprised you mentioned 3 inch deck screws first. I run out of those things often because I've bought so many for so many odd jobs. I purchased a 50 lb. box when I built my deck. When I ran out of them a few years later I began puchasing them a few pounds at a time. I should have just bought another 50 lb. box. I used them to expand the deck, repair steps, and general work around the property. They're the best! Thanks for the links.
Another quality video. As a carpenter, you hit it on all five heads! I live on my T25 #10 screws, the #8 trim screws, & the course sheetrock screws, & self tappers. I will have to look into the gutter screws. My 6th screw would have been the #10 1-5/8 T25.
I use the heck out of drywall screws for various tasks where sheer strength is not important. Just a good jack-of-all-trades. A bucket for a dime and haven't failed me.
Great list. I think of the thousands of fasteners I have and these are the most common I use in most projects. May I offer another suggestion for those installation fasteners that come with the things you buy. Get a compartmentalized storage container and sort them by size. This way when you do need a random fastener you save a bunch of time not having to dig though an assorted jar.
I agree. I have done a multitude of various projects and these are the core to have to not run out to buy screws. Having them on hand is a small investment but extremely convenient.
I actually really like a 1 1/2 inch pan head for hanging stuff on the wall. Pan head catches picture frames and stuff like that much more securely I think
I recently finished our new kitchen and your videos have been amazingly helpful! Our contingency budget got depleted, having to fix a past home-owner's plumbing mistake. We are building up our savings a bit more, before diving into making over our bathrooms. Keep up the good work. We'll keep watching.
great video. i would discard the gutter screws alltogether and keep the selfdrilling screws instead. When you drive dozens at a time, you will really appreciate the ease of drilling they give you.
I... hate self tappers these days and its because the tech has changed. Late 80's [I think] these showed up with the drill portion matched to the minor diameter - you could disassemble/reassemble something without hogging out the hole. Somewhere in the 90's that switch to an inverse taper the widest part of which was more like major diameter [see 4:43]. These are only good with thin sheet metal on a one & done basis - 18 or 20 gauge ductwork, basically. These fasteners are a PLAGUE used in wood: ripout is pretty much guaranteed, especially outdoors. Someone shows up on my jobsite with these and they are not doing ductwork, they can leave it in the truck or go home.
It's funny that you did this video now. I just reloaded my screw bins this weekend. Pretty much the same list that you had. I'm not a pro but it's nice to now I that I am doing some pro things. Thanks for another great video.
I use 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 inch coarse thread deck screws for fixing particle board furniture or similar type projects. Also handy for a lot of other stuff around the house.
Great list. I aso would advise keeping some 1/4" x 4" lag screws in your arsenal, especially for outdoor applications. Sometimes you just need that extra strength that a lag screw provides.
Good guide. Everyone has their opinions and it's always useful to weigh as many opinions and facts as possible. Many times it's not necessary to have the perfect tool for the job at hand but many times too it pays off to just do it right the first time.
I agree, I use to use sheetrock screws for everything because for the most part they were the only thing available, the short ones are not hard to drive but the long ones are a bear. so I have transitioned to deck screws with torx heads. I was pleased to see your inclusion of 1" sheetrock screws, they are hard to find but I always keep at least a few pound of them on hand. I agree too with keeping the left over hardware from what ever projects I have. the only exception to that fasteners that come with curtain rods etc. they are cheap and always cause more problems than they solve. so I replace them before I even begin the project. I have even painted the heads of some screws when they needed to be colored because you could see them when the project was done. It is crazy how many different fasteners I have. eventually I will use them all, having a selection of screws has saved me 100's of hours and frustration.
Really good info. My personal favorites don't meet your 'widely available' criteria, but they are awesome. I prefer Spax screws due to their wide (now, even wider) selection of application. From #6 1/2 inch to 8 inch and beyond, construction lags. For example, their 2 inch construction lags replace 2 inch wood screws on shop projects, especially where weight might be involved.
What a valuable video. Will stock up on smaller deck screws and deck screws are easy/smooth to use. I rebuilt the roof of my metal garden shed and used the self driving screws for the full job. Went from being completely collapsed to a strong, straight roof using the existing materials. Wish I had made a video because I could not find anything on the internet. Maybe some day you can show us how to properly use screws on plaster walls. Many thanks...again!!
This was an excellent video and you listed everything I like to keep in my fastner shelf. Glad you shared the jar tip for collecting misc stuff. That big jar has saved my tail many a time. Truly appreciate you and your channel. Forgot to mention: We've got a Habitat For Humanity Store. Love wandering around and have found fasteners of all types pretty reasonable as well as stuff that will come in handy.
Habitat for Humanity ReStore can be a good place to get some items - but you have to know retail prices because occasionally they will have an item priced a bit high.
Spot on Ethan! As we speak, I have 1lb boxes of 3 3/4", 3", 2 1/2" and 2" deck screws on the shelf. I also keep a small supply of drywall screws and 1/2" wood screws handy. Last summer a buddy from down the road stopped by to see if I had any 1/2" screws. He was surprised that I had exactly what he needed on hand. I used to have a couple big buckets of odds and ends screws around, but got frustrated digging through them to find a bunch of matching ones. It's just easier to keep those 1lb boxes around.
This one is probably not a DIY but is extremely handy IMHO. The 12/24 metal self drilling deck screw for metal decks. Has a long self drilling tip and a fine thread for metal. I used to mount electrical boxes to 1/4" angle or channel or square tubing with these. There great. Occasionally have to predrill for them depending on the brand . Some brands have a better"bit" than others. Gread vid
I bought a box 5-lb 1-5/8 think it will handle majority of my need. And it does. One area where it fell short is try to drive 3/4" on to another 3/4". To prevent poking out, 1-1/4 comes in very handy. I used to buy 1 box of every size (1-lb) available. What I ended up using the most are the 1-1/4 and 1-5/8. If push comes to shove, one can always grind off the pointy tip of the screw to prevent poking out with some odd size thickness or countersink being too deep (incidentally).
Love your channel. I have learned much from you! ;) As much as I hate digging for an obscure tip, I agree it's time to abandon Phillips. Also, most problems with "brittle" screws can be solved with pilot holes, but that's only an option for us Old Retired Guys. Keep up the good work!
every tip has its problems. I hate torx head stainless screws, because they don't fit snug enough to not drop off the driver. the only real difference between phillips and robertson for me is that it's possible for a robertson head to strip out and still trap the bit.
@@kenbrown2808 I have not had the same experience as you regarding Phillips and Robertsons. Anyway... hammering a torx bit into a stripped Robbie of similar size was a well appreciated tip given to me by an old mechanic a while back. I love Robbie bits, but they do suffer greatly from the bits binding into the screw head.
@@hhiippiittyy Phillipps will cam out of the screwhead under torque, while Robertson bind into the screwhead under torque. but in my experience, it's just as easy to not have a robertson properly engaged, and that's what lets them strip. Torx won't strip, but as I said, when you're driving stainless, they can drop off the driver.
As a replacement for the 1" drywall screw, I have a bunch of 1" deck screws. I use them for the same purpose, but I like them for the Torx head (I try to avoid Phillips head screws wherever I can).
Hey Carpenter, A useful screw for DIY is the #13 X 3" screw. If you have an older home you likely need some door hinge work. #13 screws match door hinges holes, but little else. So, you often need 2" or 3" to fix up loose hinges. Also remember, you will use wood threads for wood casings and medium theads for metal frame doors. Just so you know, #13's are hard to find. So, if you have an older home, order a small box of screws in advance, before you really need them.
my dad passed away a couple of years back, i ransacked his old shed before we sold the place and chucked al his tools and leftover materials in a couple of storage bins. with the exception of self tappers he had a decent stock of all the aforementioned screws. when my mate decided to redo a couple of rooms in his house in prep for his upcoming child i took the bins with me when i went over to help him out. the amount of times a "aw crud, i think i don't have the right screw/nail for this" followed by a "lemme check dads bin, a found it." that followed in the next 3 days has made the dad bin a staple in our group. that mate now has a small surplus stock of each of the screws, they always come in handy.
I have all of those in the garage. I totally agree with you about saving extra fasteners. I have gone to my 'box of treasures' many times to find a screw/bolt to fix something. My neighbor would ask for some quite often.
Thanks for this video! I always struggle to figure out the perfect combination of fasteners to keep on hand. My only suggestion is to replace the deck screws with something that is rated for structural applications. Deck screws are really meant for holding on decking, not exactly structural. I love GRK R4 screws instead! Structural rated, interior or exterior so you can use them for anything and you know you’re good! A little more expensive, but the added versatility makes them worth it IMO.
Yes I highly recommend them to everyone! The bits also last much longer. I also highly recommend grip rite construction screws. T20 drive, self burrowing head, self starting point. Means you basically don't need to predrill or countersink unless it's a hard wood. But it's not a hard wood screw anyway. Deck screws have much of the same stuff going on as construction screws, just a wider head and head angle, also a thicker shaft. All adding up to more holding power, but also requiring countersinking and predrilling most of the time on more finish stuff indoors. Spax are great too, but pricey. Even my hardi screws made the jump from square to t20. I'm hoping drywall and pocket hole screws join the torque head revolution!
The best thing I ever did when it comes to my stock of screws (and nuts and bolts) of many types is to get inexpensive compartmentalized plastic storage "organizer" cases to organize them in. That turns a jumbled up pile of screws that might or might not have what you need into an actual usable inventory of parts. Harbor Freight has inexpensive 94458 24-compartment organizers with removable dividers, which I prefer over fancier units with individually-closing compartments, or sets of drawers, because the HF organizers are cheap enough that you don't mind buying several, and the transparent lid lets you review the entire contents at a glance. You might keep separate retail bulk boxes of your main go-to screws like the ones in this video, but it's very useful to have a handful each of many different kinds of screws, such as machine screws and nuts, and also the #4, #6, #8 "sheet metal" screws in various lengths for attaching hardware to wood., and these you can keep usefully ready in a plastic organizer case like I mentioned. Another probably-obvious tip: When a project arises that would go better with a particular size/length of screw, I always buy double what I need immediately, especially if that means I can buy a bulk package rather than indvidiuals. Those additional screws go into the organizer. The first project already proved those screws desirable , so they are likely candidates for a future job.
Great video, but I think that the Robertson/square head deack screw is much easier to use . Also, for framing the construction grade is stronger and maybe a code requirement.
As a Canadian I agree... Robertson screws are king. But I've heard/read that they aren't as popular in the States for some reason, possibly because they were invented in Canada?! I didn't even know deck screws came with a Phillips head until I saw this video -- don't even want to think of the frustration!
Oh yes. I am a #1 fan of Robertson. I saw some #10 x 1 1/2” panhead Roberson screws for free so being a junkie for free stuff I went to pick them up and received 2 boxes of 4000 screws for a total of 8000 screws. They are excellent screws and will stick on the the end of a spinning driver .
@@islandseeker1260 In NZ.... I rarely do any "big" work and square head screws are my first choice... I'd try torx or anything else ( EXcluding Phillips or (!) slotted screws) if i saw an advantage.
Torx pattern is the key criterion to me, besides the points you said (sizes and types). It does not cause issues while fastening, and the ease and power of screwing is amazing. Regarding sizes, deck screws of 1-1/4" are the ones I like to many applications. 2-1/2" deck screws I use to fasten two 2x4 together.
I am so fortunate to have a hardware store in my town (Bexhill UK) where yesterday I went to just buy six screws, pay 63pennies having had personal assistance with my purchase, its extraordinarily rare in our world of superstores and clueless teenage cashiers
I avoid drywall screws unless drywalling. They are prone to rust, but so make sure to use them in only interior dry applications with untreated dry lumber. I keep the general construction screws over the deck screws because they are cheaper and work just as well for dry environments in untreated lumber but do have more resistance to corrosion than drywall screws.
I live in a rural area, miles from any hardware store. I keep many boxes of deck and drywall screws on hand at all times - lengths range from 1" to 3.5". You're right on how just these two types of screws can handle most any project.
Agreed! I always have fasteners on hand for the just in case I need them. Nothing worse than needing fasteners and having to stop a project and go to the big box store to get them. It’s a time waster. When I see fasteners on sale I usually pick some up. All the sizes and types you mentioned are a must. Thanks for the links! I think I can speak for most we always enjoy your tips and tricks. There is a good reason you have over 700k subscribers!
Good video: Coming in with MY #1 as YOUR #1... 3" deck screws... got my attention right out the gate 👍 Just a couple notes: -I personally choose 1 5/8" deck screws over 2" because they're plenty long enough for fastening down up to 3/4" sheathing, siding, subflooring, etc. to framing. -Drywall screws are perceived as brittle because we're in the habit of using impact drivers, which can snap the heads off. Try to get in the habit of using your drill with the drag set, and a dimple bit for drywall. -I really wish I could find stainless deck or trim screws in Torx instead of square.
Philips head drywall screws were my go-to for decades, but now I've migrated over to T25 screws for most general projects. I only use drywall screws for drywall now.
I spent about 3 years working for a GC who specialized in building and installing metal trusses (using 12-20gauge galvanized steel). We used #12 self tappers to hold them together. I must have driven over 100,000 of those suckers using primarily a DeWalt corded screw gun when building and a DeWalt cordless impact driver for installation. Worked pretty good for 20 to 16 ga and was tough for the thicker gauges, while the teks5 screws would go through ¼" steel with ease. So I thought it must be the screw. Recently I bought myself one of those surge impact drivers and noticed that it will drive the #12 (teks3) through ¼" plate I've got sitting around with ease. Am pretty amazed at how much the operation/programming of an impact can make such a huge difference.
Of the DIY projects I've finished in my current remodel, I've found the most useful screws for my situations - pantry building, floor patching, panel replacement, and installing a load-bearing beam - are all on your list of screws. Great video!
Please tell me you didn't use a deckmate screw for your "load-bearing" beam? Deckmate scews were NEVER intended to be used for framing or any type of structural purpose. This idiot is giving everyone the wrong advice about deckmate screws. These deckmate screws are intended to hold deckboards down and for minor exterior fastening.
Thanks for this video. I am renovating a Victorian and have been using 2” and 3” exterior screws for certain things. I was contemplating brass construction screws but they don’t appeal to me. Also I agree drywall screws can be used for a number of things besides drywall!
Because I do a good bit of industrial panel building I keep a bunch of #6 and #8 truss head self-drilling screws in 1/2" to 1" lengths and have found they come in handy for tons of other stuff around the house.
It's an excellent idea to keep extra screws from installation kits. I keep extra screws & save fasteners from a lot of items that I junk out. The only screws I won't keep are any with slotted heads. I detest them.
I framed up some interior 2x4 stud partitions using 2-1/2" and 3-1/4" Spax brand torx head screws. They drove through top plates easily and toenailed studs without a single split. These walls aren't subject to any shear stresses that may snap the screw. The bonus is if you make a mistake, you can unscrew and reposition. My other favorite is spax truss head screw. Perfect for hanging pocket door tracks and cabinets to walls. The head is low profile and wide.
I would include the 1 1/4inch drywall wall screw. Its my go to in my workshop. Since I work in a big box hardware department I will keep your list in mind for my my customers.
I’ve assembled a collection of most of those screws. The one I like and use the most are “Lath” screws. 1/2” to 2-1/2”. The pan head is shallow and I tend to use self drilling points the most. I use them to build informal cabinets and thin steel tubing. I built a target frame from discarded 1x2 steel bed slates. In wood, I do have to pre-drill the top piece oversized to get it to seat.
I'm from Germany, so I naturally use Spax with Torx head for everything that I may need to unscrew again (Philips is wearing out too fast) or the black drywall screws shown in your video for things I'll never need to unscrew again and when it has to be cheap diy stuff, since Spax are a bit on the expensive side. For everything on the outside or in wet conditions (century old stone walls, ...) I use stainless steel. I once had to demolish a wooden balkony and the builder used normal or coated screws. Almost all of them broke while unscrewing cause of corrosion. A few more years and the balkony could have collapes due to these wrong screws.
Great video. Think I might pick up some trim screws. I do have a comment on 3" screws (deck screws or others). Personally I lean more towards 2-1/2" screws whenever joining 2x4s, etc. If you countersink 3" screws when joining two-by woods, the sharp tip of the screw will just protrude out the other side. 2-1/2" is plenty long enough for most applications. But yes, it's good to also have 3" screws handy.
1/2” pan head sheet metal screw (#10, #12) is a staple. I’ve used on HVAC units, washers & dryers, gutters, plastic sheds, anything plastic or metal. I never let myself run out of these lovelies.
I’m so glad I found this channel. It’s hard to find people on RUclips that you feel like you can trust with safety information. And I really want to learn more about Woodworking, but I don’t wanna be dumb and hurt myself because I took bad advice online. I would love to see a video on how to choose which type of fastener for which type of work? And how you can tell the difference between fasteners/what to look for when you go to the store. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Mike Never thought about it, but as you went through the screws, I realized that those are the ones I always keep on hand, except for the gutter screws. I do keep the self drilling.
This is a really good general purpose list! I'm a carpenter and those varieties suit most of my projects at work! I think something else to add to the list would be timberlok's and other lag alternatives, as they're a good alternative to traditional large-diameter lags. Another I would consider adding to the list are 1⅝" cementboard screws, as they're great for installing gypsum board/fiberboard products and thinner plastics. The larger serrated heads do a great job gripping thinner/ more malleable materials without punching through. That being said, maybe add the whole fastener aisle from the hardware store 😂 Cheers, and thank you for this thorough and excellently illustrated guide!!
Glad to know I was on the mark with the 3"-2" star framing/deck screws. Love the drywall screws, use those a lot but I only like the course version as well. Fro metal I use the self tappers but those gutter screws look like a good shorter alternative. Thanks for the video
I have everything you mentioned in the video. Two of my favorites that you didn’t mention are the 1/2” pan head and the 1 1/4” pan head screws that are not self tapping.
Since I use mostly 5/8” to 3/4” thick redwood fence pickets for garden projects like planter boxes and pallet style bases for planter pots, I use 8 x 1-3/4” or 8 x 1-5/8” exterior grade flat head Torx wood screws. I do use longer versions of the flat head Torx wood screws or exterior grade lag screws (Spax Powerlag) for attaching two 2” thick lumber.
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You nailed it
Thanks, Paul! 😁
I guess someone had to say it. 🤣😂
I think he _screwed_ up in omitting the 1½" double lead thread square drive floor screw.
I would replace the shirt drywall screw with this one in some cases. For example, in securing thin plywood such as 5/16 mahogany as shelf backing.
Excellent recommendations otherwise! : )
screw that
🤣🤣🤣
I only use square-head drywall screws these days. No slipping. Perfect set in the drywall every single time.
I just wanted to say thanks for all that you do. I have learned so much - everything from the magnet/stud trick, to using a 5 in 1 tool, and mastering a circular saw. Your videos are to the point and always full of helpful and practical information. Seriously, thanks!
Thanks so much, Nicholas! I’m really glad they’re helpful! 😄
The Honest Carpenter channel is one of the DIY channels on youtube that I've used to supplement my online learning material for DIY projects & carpentry! The best part is that such knowledge is free and way better than the stuff many community colleges put out there for an expensive tuition fee!
I've switched almost entirely to spax screws; they have all the types you listed, plus powerlags, which I like a lot. Pocket screws and a pocket hole jig are worth keeping around too.
Something I like to do when buying screws is always buy more than I need, even if I only need a few. It lets me build up an inventory for future projects.
And I avoid buying anything Philips or flat head if I can. T20 makes my life a lot easier
@@matt6740 Yeah, that's one of the main reasons I switched to spax; they're mostly t20.
@@NWGR and the driver bits they come with seem to last really long. I've been using the same bit for years, through multiple large boxes of spax screws.
@@williamsburgasylum From what I've been able to find online, wera makes the spax bits, so no surprise that they last so long.
I've been digging the Spax screws as well. Harder to find because not all Lowe's carry them, at least by me.
Thank you so much for the advice. I'm a 70-year-old retired DIY'er. And yes I use drywall screws a lot!
You’re welcome, Melanie! 🙂
I never liked drywall screws, all the ones I ever used were super easy to break, a lot of time as they are driven in they snap right off, they are very brittle.
I like the star drive deck screws
I.use drywall screws a lot too, but my experience is the same as Mr. HoBby above. The screw goes in but as you "snug" it down the head snaps off. Of course, if this happens once, I pilot drill and sometimes lubricate but if you know that the wood is hard or tough I use a beefier screw . M aybe square drive.
@@melmo5218 My old room mate was trying to do something with drywall screws and was losing his shit because the heads kept torquing off. He was using an impact driver. If you're having the heads come off a lot, use a drill with torque control.
@@melmo5218 Hardwood - always pilot drill. Softwoods like pine - pilot hole if you're going to angle drill through the end grain but otherwise just drive straight in. Unless it's a thin trim piece.
I got a rigid pack out container and got pretty much every screw from 3/4" up to 3" and found that having all the sizes available is fantastic. Plus, torx bits for life
Totally agree on all your selections, and glad you included the 2" trim screws. I use them all the time, yet most folks don't even know they exist.
Ethan, I always use Deck Screws for all of my large projects. They are easy to drill and they stay in the wood very well. Thank you for all that you do for people like me. You are the "honest carpenter" and your videos are top shelf.
I agree, I use the lengths you show all the time, they have never let me down. Thanks!
With screws, 1" of screw past what you are screwing into is often sufficient. I rarely use a 3" screw. A 2 1/2" will secure two 2x4s together just fine.
The problem lies with trying to use a 3" with both 2x4s sideways, the tip often pokes out.
I don't keep 3" screws in my professional kit, I keep 2 1/2, and I warranty my work.
My go to sizes are 1 1/4", 1 5/8", 2 1/2" grip rite construction screws. Deck screws if I'm outdoors.
Other fasteners I like. My cadex 23ga pin nailer (it can shoot 23ga brad nails, not just headless pins), and both the narrow and wide crown stapler (staples are damn strong)
I also keep concrete nails in my kit, but I'm a Mason, they might also be getting phased out due to the new glue trick I've found.
If you haven't seen the tape, CA glue, and spray activator trick, go check it out! It's changed my life overnight! Intans cleats, guides, ledger boards, removable clamp surface, you name it! I used it yesterday to keep 2 different thickness hardwoods perfectly flush together, a hardwood stair nosing made to match a hardwood floor.
I have recently bought a new home which was previously owned by a carpenter! There is a workshop which is a great bonus! There are probably 60 boxes of screws of every description you can think of! Sadly, they are all slot headed! I simply don't have the heart to throw them away, and many are top quality that goes along with some of the furniture he made! The old guy passed away last year aged 97 - and he never left a saw unsharpened, or a chisel without a keen edge! The blades on his hand planes is a joy to behold, and his long plane is a Stanley Bailey, made in USA which will only be of interest to a real enthusiast and in remarkable condition given its age!
Thank you for your insight into a basic stock of usable screws, I will certainly be taking your suggestion on board- though perhaps with a couple of additional types! It will certainly clear up a lot of shelf space!
I bought a house like that too. With the shed in the back. Which I thought was a hidden treasure of nuts and bolts and screws in little homemade drawers. Like you mostly flat heads and for sided nuts. (Stove bolts.)Wonder if this was a distant cousin?
Totally agree with your selection of screws to have on hand. I started doing carpentry long before dry wall screws and cordless drivers - and wouldn't go back to those "good old days" for anything!
I recently switched to torx for nearly everything - T25 for general use and T15 for trim. Almost impossible to deform the head so they are especially good for temp work that you will dismantle or anything you might need to unscrew in the future. My on hand sizes are 3”, 2 1/2”, and 1 5/8”.
After I've nearly depleted my massive collection of pozidriv screws, I'll absolutely go for Torx screws. Torx heads are so durable and easy to drive! 😍
torx worx until someone paints them over :D but that is an universal issue, which only through slot and outer shape (outer hex) screws solve
@@RondeLeeuw Honestly, I would just get rid of the philips, and go get you some torx. You'll be much happier. No more srtipped headaches.
Sell them to some sucker.
@@davidblahota5655 I feel like every screw head should have a flat slot cut through it in addition to whatever the intended bit is, as a backup.
Only using torx here
Great list! If I had to add a 6th screw, it would be cabinet screws, the type with a washer-shaped head. I keep a variety of lengths on hand. They are great when you need a lot of holding power on the top surface and they look more attractive and "finished" than philips head screws with their brass color and star bit.
That's my main compaint with drywall screws. They be ugly.
@@stopthephilosophicalzombie9017Sure, the heads are meant to be plastered and painted over. That's why something built with drywall screws looks extra cheap.
@@bridgecrossYeah but backyard carpenters like me always end up using them anyway. I'm going to get some proper cabinet screws and/or finishing nails for my next project lol
I think you are referring to a spax power lag screw. Basically a thin lag bolt and washer made with a t20 drive.
I get plenty of holding power from grip rite construction screws. They have assumed the top position in my kit of screws for my use in construction. I consider it the perfect wood screw, besides the pocket hole. It also basically eliminates the need to predrill or countersink, saving more time and tools!
I might use a spax on a gate or something @ the hinge side.
GRK R4 screws are my standard for anything I build with framing lumber. They're Torx but I think the shortest they make is 2", so they'll poke through smaller things made of 2 layers of 1-by. Grip Rite makes 8x1-1/4" construction screws with the same T25 drive but they don't self-drill as well as the R4s. For smaller hobby projects it's almost impossible to find anything decent since most of the industry (and more importantly big retailers) are still under the hopeless delusion that the Philips drive is useful for anything at all.
I have GRK R4 screws in #8-1¼ and #8-1½. They use a T15 bit. I get them at the orange big box store.
A good list. For interior work consider T25 Construction Screws instead of Deck Screws. They are 2/3 the cost, so some of both on hand can money depending on the application.
Torx are terrible if outside and need removing in the future. The torx head more often than not strips, so you end up manually starting everyone before a power driver can be used. Just dismantled and moved a shed where they used these all over the roof, had to cut most of them out.
@@royster3345 I've had the opposite experience. I only use torx screws because they almost never strip out. I've removed screws from outside projects (near the ocean) that are several years old without any problems.
@@royster3345 Can't confirm. I use Torx everywhere and never stripped a screw. I've stripped many a cheap Torx bit though. But never the screw itself.
@@royster3345 it's very possible that you were using the wrong bit (T25 for a T27, for example). Really the only times I've had trouble with torx I later realized that the bit I was using was too small but large enough to still grab the screws, and inevitably strip them out. I've seen it happen with plenty of other carpenters, so please don't take this as an insult.
One thing I've found to be helpful when dealing with a stripped torx screw is to use a Allen bit. More often than not, I have one that fits tight enough in a stripped torx to be able to remove it. (and then fasten it and remove it and fasten it yet again but just far enough to where you need pliers to get it to move, but my laziness is besides the point).
@@schwuzi Given the replies, I must just be unlucky then, the T25 ones I had to remove were steel, rusted, the heads full of dirt, and solid to remove. After many heads stripped I used a manual torx to try and loosen the screw (these were all 10cms long). Some snapped off the head, some came loose, but plenty just took out the torx splines in the screw head.
I then had to use a hole cutter to cut the board free, and an angle grinder on the screw.
My goto screws for years has been the zink yellow/gold multipurpose screws in several lengths from the box stores. The zink helps with rust prevention although they are not exterior screws. For exterior use you need a coated screw as in your video. Good job, I appreciate your channel.
Same here and they are more cost effective than deck screws.
@@BigBrotherIsTooBig Yes sir, I purchased a few pounds of them and make them work for any "non esthetic" fastening that needs done.
Keeping extra screws you get from installation kits is an excellent suggestion. It can save a trip to the hardware store because you need something a particular size or type.
Yep, lessons I’ve learned through sheer frustration, Jeff 😅
Yeah. On my ancient car, I ran into a problem when the entire OG install kit for the license plate on my rear bumper basically fell apart and I couldn't attach the new one they sent me a few years back after pulling the old one off. Pulled out my huge coffee can full of this type of stuff and was able to find what I needed to get her on their tight without having to go to the hardware store. I can't even say how many times I've been able to dip into that thing and find a fix for something or other that needed fixing.
Yes but put them in a glass jar. I spend most of my time looking for stuff not fixing as every thing are in plastic trays or boxes which you can not see through. I am going to reorganise my shed in the summer and will use mainly glass jars. The old fashioned screwing the jar lid to the underside of a shelf and glass jar hanging down, so that you see at a glance what you have.
Wife came up with the idea that we're currently using: wrap in paper, label, then tape to the underside or inside a drawer or somewhere on the furniture piece! Then you won't have to go fishing them out of a jar :-)
@@tonysheerness2427 hehe, luckily I've got plenty of those glass jars from store bought pasta sauce and most of them fit on make shift shelves made in between 2x lumber. You can literally build shelving into the walls of your garage if you don't have drywall up that'll fit these glass jars no issue.
One screw I can not do without is the self-tapping lathe screws. They're great for anything with a keyhole. They also will drill through sheet metal. They have a nice big, flat underside (washer-head), so you often don't need a washer if you want better surface hold. I use (and re-use) them all the time.
Great video. I am slowly getting comfortable in the fastener aisle, but I am still in awe of the variety. This helps a lot. I will just add that I like to disassemble things that are broken and salvage specialty fasteners. I recently had a space heater die and instead of just chucking it I took it apart and got a tonne of metal screws, the short ones for gutters and self tapping ones. Obviously have to be careful with taking these things apart, but they can be a treasure trove.
That’s probably the best way to collect specialty stuff, Craig!
Great idea. I dismantle everything and keep the screws.
I do the same. I also repair my own vehicles and do the same thing. When I go to the junk yard for something I'm always taking some extra fasteners AND electrical connectors.
One more recommendation is Roofing screws with a large washer in case of a roof leak, I used them to screw down tarp metal rings down on to the roof, always good to have a way to cover your roof in case of leaks or damage from weather.
3" deck screws ---- got a huge box of 'em!
Yep, got the 2" as well.
I find hex heads much easier to drive than most other options.
This is an excellent educational video on screws. Gives me a reason to use my Home Depot gift card and stock up on all the screws you recommended. Thank you!!
I would have added construction screws. Strongest screws available for the diameter size. For when you really don't want a failure, such as stair hand rails or grab bars. Maybe next a video explaining all the washer? Keep the videos coming! I do maintenance and need to know a lot about a lot and quality, experienced knowledge is gold.
deck screws are construction screws with a coating
@@jasenrock he could have said that in the video
Got a bucket of all them fasteners in my garage and basement box… you are spot on and sharply pointed! I also would have added, try to reuse or salvage the screws from material when taking down or disassembling- as long as the screws are not warped or badly weathered, I’ve probably saved couple hundred of them from projects I built and then reconsidered later. My neighbor, who would be considered an older baby-boomer, also gave me his mason jars and garage drawers that were filled with every type of screw he collected over his many years, which initially had me to keep my fasteners too. Cheers
I would add 1/2 - 1in lath screws. The washer head is great for resisting pull thru and do a better job at mounting items to plywood. I use them for small casters and for cord organization along with zip ties with screw holes.
Agreed. I use the lath screws for so many different things
Great for block window installation, I just wish they had them with torx heads
you must be talking about what we call K-lath screws. washer head with a needle point. they're great for securing things to any kind of engineered wood sheet material. I use them for putting things on cabinetry.
I am guessing you are referring to what I know as 'modified truss head screws' as what I knew as actual truss (metal framing) are these annoying little black screws that are a pain)
@@MrOpinionCantSignIn yes, the head is also called a modified truss head. if you want to see the exact screw, it's a K-lath metal piercing screw. the needle point and the long taper make it penetrate and hold well in cabinetry panels.
Hey Ethan. I watched a video a couple weeks ago, and learned something cool. It seems obvious, but I'm self taught, so I'm never surprised to learn something simple. I have always wondered why there was a space at the top of the threading on some screws. I assumed it was for clear out of dust, but this video corrected me. He explained, and showed examples, why it's there, and he says it is because you don't want the threads to grab both pieces, but rather only the back/bottom piece. And he is right, it gives a much tighter seam.... if the thread is in the top piece, it is still holding it, but if it is only on the second piece, the top piece can slide on that screw now, and the head is able to slide it down the screw and press it right up against the second board. .... for glued seams, definitely it is better, if not gluing, Idk, still seems better there though, too. ... Make sense to you?
Peace
I work on cabinets and use the trim screws quite a bit. I particularly like the GRK brand because of the counter clockwise threads towards the head that help join pieces better. I use them a lot as reinforcements between cabinet boxes. The best thing I've discovered is to glue in 3/16" dowels to fill in the hole instead of wood filler when you sink them deep. It leaves a clean finish.
Those reverse threads work well to eliminate bridging.
Take-away chopsticks and a flush cutting mini pull saw works perfect.
Have you tried grip rite construction screws?
They are similar to a spax trim screw, just with a little larger head for more grabbing power.
Might still need to countersink the Baltic birch ply, but the regular stuff will countersink fine with its self burrowing head. Makes installing the ply for the countertop a breeze. Also great for screwing lumber together.
Perfect... No twist needed, just facts. Passed it on to my kids and they were smart enough to say, you have those on the bench. 🍻
I really can't argue with any of that. It pretty much matches my screw/fastener stock. Great video as always 👍🏻
I completely agree regarding deck screws, and I keep numerous lengths, but all are coated whether I’m using for interior or exterior. One that is not on your list is an Everbilt #8 pan head, but it’s not your typical Panhead, because the head is wide. Almost squished flat. The picture on the box shows the screw holding up expanded metal or mesh wire. This is a great screw because the number eight size is excellent to accommodate most mounting holes and the extra wide head provides a great clamping surface.
Another great video. I love that he always provides the necessary links to allow us to simply click and order the items.
Thank you! I’ve learned that the links will be much requested, so I go ahead and include them 😄
@@TheHonestCarpenter Have to agree. Appreciate you listing links as it makes it so much easier to order something I have forgotten when I'm out and about.
Great video. A lot of these I have learned about thru sheer frustration when looking for fasteners. This will help me and others and save us the head pounding!
I think that would cover about 95% of what I need. I appreciate the common sense videos that you do.
You’re welcome, Larry! It’s amazing how far this set will get you 🙂
Say no to drywall screws. Unless you're doing drywall.
Construction screws are what you want for wood if you're not using pocket holes.
I'm not surprised you mentioned 3 inch deck screws first. I run out of those things often because I've bought so many for so many odd jobs. I purchased a 50 lb. box when I built my deck. When I ran out of them a few years later I began puchasing them a few pounds at a time. I should have just bought another 50 lb. box. I used them to expand the deck, repair steps, and general work around the property. They're the best! Thanks for the links.
Another quality video. As a carpenter, you hit it on all five heads! I live on my T25 #10 screws, the #8 trim screws, & the course sheetrock screws, & self tappers. I will have to look into the gutter screws. My 6th screw would have been the #10 1-5/8 T25.
Good call, Marcos! 👍😁
A box of HVAC/electrical 1/4 hex head self tappers will do just about any job with sheet metal.
I use the heck out of drywall screws for various tasks where sheer strength is not important. Just a good jack-of-all-trades. A bucket for a dime and haven't failed me.
Great list. I think of the thousands of fasteners I have and these are the most common I use in most projects. May I offer another suggestion for those installation fasteners that come with the things you buy. Get a compartmentalized storage container and sort them by size. This way when you do need a random fastener you save a bunch of time not having to dig though an assorted jar.
This creates so much extra work for me, but saves so much more every time I’m looking for something specific.
Cheap tacklebox that stays in one place. Easy peazy. I hate cheap screws, but they are good enough for most jobs
I agree. I have done a multitude of various projects and these are the core to have to not run out to buy screws. Having them on hand is a small investment but extremely convenient.
I actually really like a 1 1/2 inch pan head for hanging stuff on the wall. Pan head catches picture frames and stuff like that much more securely I think
I recently finished our new kitchen and your videos have been amazingly helpful! Our contingency budget got depleted, having to fix a past home-owner's plumbing mistake. We are building up our savings a bit more, before diving into making over our bathrooms. Keep up the good work. We'll keep watching.
great video. i would discard the gutter screws alltogether and keep the selfdrilling screws instead. When you drive dozens at a time, you will really appreciate the ease of drilling they give you.
I do love the self-drilling, Petr!
I... hate self tappers these days and its because the tech has changed. Late 80's [I think] these showed up with the drill portion matched to the minor diameter - you could disassemble/reassemble something without hogging out the hole. Somewhere in the 90's that switch to an inverse taper the widest part of which was more like major diameter [see 4:43]. These are only good with thin sheet metal on a one & done basis - 18 or 20 gauge ductwork, basically. These fasteners are a PLAGUE used in wood: ripout is pretty much guaranteed, especially outdoors. Someone shows up on my jobsite with these and they are not doing ductwork, they can leave it in the truck or go home.
@@flinch622 i have never used and can see how that would be a problem. i use them on c-channels and thin sheets, there they work great
I’ve used many of the screws you talked about as well as
3-1/2” deck screws for some extreme applications. Thanks for the info.
Great video! I find that pretty much any length of deck screws you can get your hands on are great to have around the shop.
Very true, Tay. They’re so strong that they’re just really multifunctional
It's funny that you did this video now. I just reloaded my screw bins this weekend. Pretty much the same list that you had. I'm not a pro but it's nice to now I that I am doing some pro things. Thanks for another great video.
Important to add those deck schools are great also because they use torx heads, which beats everything else.
I use 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 inch coarse thread deck screws for fixing particle board furniture or similar type projects. Also handy for a lot of other stuff around the house.
Great list. I aso would advise keeping some 1/4" x 4" lag screws in your arsenal, especially for outdoor applications. Sometimes you just need that extra strength that a lag screw provides.
I agree, however try using RSS screws instead, way more convenient imo especially GRK type that self drill.
Good guide. Everyone has their opinions and it's always useful to weigh as many opinions and facts as possible. Many times it's not necessary to have the perfect tool for the job at hand but many times too it pays off to just do it right the first time.
This is such a fantastic video that covers a super underrated topic. I'm sure this one will be a huge hit for years to come!
Thank you! I’ve been waiting to cover this topic for a while, but it’s so fundamental 🙂
I agree, I use to use sheetrock screws for everything because for the most part they were the only thing available, the short ones are not hard to drive but the long ones are a bear. so I have transitioned to deck screws with torx heads. I was pleased to see your inclusion of 1" sheetrock screws, they are hard to find but I always keep at least a few pound of them on hand. I agree too with keeping the left over hardware from what ever projects I have. the only exception to that fasteners that come with curtain rods etc. they are cheap and always cause more problems than they solve. so I replace them before I even begin the project. I have even painted the heads of some screws when they needed to be colored because you could see them when the project was done. It is crazy how many different fasteners I have. eventually I will use them all, having a selection of screws has saved me 100's of hours and frustration.
Really good info. My personal favorites don't meet your 'widely available' criteria, but they are awesome. I prefer Spax screws due to their wide (now, even wider) selection of application. From #6 1/2 inch to 8 inch and beyond, construction lags. For example, their 2 inch construction lags replace 2 inch wood screws on shop projects, especially where weight might be involved.
where do you get them. it doesnt seem we have this in canada... not anythwere i thought of looking.
@@versus023 - Home Depot.
@@versus023 Yeah, Home Depot as Steve B mentions. I get them at a flyover state big store, Menards. I see Lowes now carries them too.
What a valuable video. Will stock up on smaller deck screws and deck screws are easy/smooth to use.
I rebuilt the roof of my metal garden shed and used the self driving screws for the full job. Went from being completely collapsed to a strong, straight roof using the existing materials. Wish I had made a video because I could not find anything on the internet.
Maybe some day you can show us how to properly use screws on plaster walls.
Many thanks...again!!
This was an excellent video and you listed everything I like to keep in my fastner shelf. Glad you shared the jar tip for collecting misc stuff. That big jar has saved my tail many a time. Truly appreciate you and your channel. Forgot to mention: We've got a Habitat For Humanity Store. Love wandering around and have found fasteners of all types pretty reasonable as well as stuff that will come in handy.
Habitat for Humanity ReStore can be a good place to get some items - but you have to know retail prices because occasionally they will have an item priced a bit high.
Spot on Ethan! As we speak, I have 1lb boxes of 3 3/4", 3", 2 1/2" and 2" deck screws on the shelf. I also keep a small supply of drywall screws and 1/2" wood screws handy. Last summer a buddy from down the road stopped by to see if I had any 1/2" screws. He was surprised that I had exactly what he needed on hand. I used to have a couple big buckets of odds and ends screws around, but got frustrated digging through them to find a bunch of matching ones. It's just easier to keep those 1lb boxes around.
This one is probably not a DIY but is extremely handy IMHO. The 12/24 metal self drilling deck screw for metal decks. Has a long self drilling tip and a fine thread for metal.
I used to mount electrical boxes to 1/4" angle or channel or square tubing with these. There great. Occasionally have to predrill for them depending on the brand . Some brands have a better"bit" than others. Gread vid
I bought a box 5-lb 1-5/8 think it will handle majority of my need. And it does. One area where it fell short is try to drive 3/4" on to another 3/4". To prevent poking out, 1-1/4 comes in very handy. I used to buy 1 box of every size (1-lb) available. What I ended up using the most are the 1-1/4 and 1-5/8. If push comes to shove, one can always grind off the pointy tip of the screw to prevent poking out with some odd size thickness or countersink being too deep (incidentally).
Love your channel. I have learned much from you! ;)
As much as I hate digging for an obscure tip, I agree it's time to abandon Phillips. Also, most problems with "brittle" screws can be solved with pilot holes, but that's only an option for us Old Retired Guys. Keep up the good work!
every tip has its problems. I hate torx head stainless screws, because they don't fit snug enough to not drop off the driver. the only real difference between phillips and robertson for me is that it's possible for a robertson head to strip out and still trap the bit.
@@kenbrown2808
I have not had the same experience as you regarding Phillips and Robertsons.
Anyway... hammering a torx bit into a stripped Robbie of similar size was a well appreciated tip given to me by an old mechanic a while back.
I love Robbie bits, but they do suffer greatly from the bits binding into the screw head.
@@hhiippiittyy Phillipps will cam out of the screwhead under torque, while Robertson bind into the screwhead under torque. but in my experience, it's just as easy to not have a robertson properly engaged, and that's what lets them strip. Torx won't strip, but as I said, when you're driving stainless, they can drop off the driver.
As a replacement for the 1" drywall screw, I have a bunch of 1" deck screws. I use them for the same purpose, but I like them for the Torx head (I try to avoid Phillips head screws wherever I can).
Hey Carpenter, A useful screw for DIY is the #13 X 3" screw. If you have an older home you likely need some door hinge work. #13 screws match door hinges holes, but little else. So, you often need 2" or 3" to fix up loose hinges. Also remember, you will use wood threads for wood casings and medium theads for metal frame doors. Just so you know, #13's are hard to find. So, if you have an older home, order a small box of screws in advance, before you really need them.
my dad passed away a couple of years back, i ransacked his old shed before we sold the place and chucked al his tools and leftover materials in a couple of storage bins.
with the exception of self tappers he had a decent stock of all the aforementioned screws.
when my mate decided to redo a couple of rooms in his house in prep for his upcoming child i took the bins with me when i went over to help him out.
the amount of times a "aw crud, i think i don't have the right screw/nail for this" followed by a "lemme check dads bin, a found it." that followed in the next 3 days has made the dad bin a staple in our group.
that mate now has a small surplus stock of each of the screws, they always come in handy.
I have all of those in the garage. I totally agree with you about saving extra fasteners. I have gone to my 'box of treasures' many times to find a screw/bolt to fix something. My neighbor would ask for some quite often.
There’s a real thrill to finding that ONE necessary fastener in your junk jar, Koko 😆
Thanks for this video! I always struggle to figure out the perfect combination of fasteners to keep on hand. My only suggestion is to replace the deck screws with something that is rated for structural applications. Deck screws are really meant for holding on decking, not exactly structural. I love GRK R4 screws instead! Structural rated, interior or exterior so you can use them for anything and you know you’re good! A little more expensive, but the added versatility makes them worth it IMO.
Great List. A couple of years ago I started using Torx head when possible. So much easier to drive long screws. Life changing.
Yes I highly recommend them to everyone! The bits also last much longer.
I also highly recommend grip rite construction screws. T20 drive, self burrowing head, self starting point. Means you basically don't need to predrill or countersink unless it's a hard wood. But it's not a hard wood screw anyway.
Deck screws have much of the same stuff going on as construction screws, just a wider head and head angle, also a thicker shaft. All adding up to more holding power, but also requiring countersinking and predrilling most of the time on more finish stuff indoors.
Spax are great too, but pricey.
Even my hardi screws made the jump from square to t20. I'm hoping drywall and pocket hole screws join the torque head revolution!
The best thing I ever did when it comes to my stock of screws (and nuts and bolts) of many types is to get inexpensive compartmentalized plastic storage "organizer" cases to organize them in. That turns a jumbled up pile of screws that might or might not have what you need into an actual usable inventory of parts. Harbor Freight has inexpensive 94458 24-compartment organizers with removable dividers, which I prefer over fancier units with individually-closing compartments, or sets of drawers, because the HF organizers are cheap enough that you don't mind buying several, and the transparent lid lets you review the entire contents at a glance. You might keep separate retail bulk boxes of your main go-to screws like the ones in this video, but it's very useful to have a handful each of many different kinds of screws, such as machine screws and nuts, and also the #4, #6, #8 "sheet metal" screws in various lengths for attaching hardware to wood., and these you can keep usefully ready in a plastic organizer case like I mentioned.
Another probably-obvious tip: When a project arises that would go better with a particular size/length of screw, I always buy double what I need immediately, especially if that means I can buy a bulk package rather than indvidiuals. Those additional screws go into the organizer. The first project already proved those screws desirable , so they are likely candidates for a future job.
Great video, but I think that the Robertson/square head deack screw is much easier to use . Also, for framing the construction grade is stronger and maybe a code requirement.
As a Canadian I agree... Robertson screws are king. But I've heard/read that they aren't as popular in the States for some reason, possibly because they were invented in Canada?! I didn't even know deck screws came with a Phillips head until I saw this video -- don't even want to think of the frustration!
The only thing I like Philips for is drywall, otherwise I choose Robertson.
Oh yes. I am a #1 fan of Robertson. I saw some #10 x 1 1/2” panhead Roberson screws for free so being a junkie for free stuff I went to pick them up and received 2 boxes of 4000 screws for a total of 8000 screws. They are excellent screws and will stick on the the end of a spinning driver .
@@islandseeker1260 In NZ.... I rarely do any "big" work and square head screws are my first choice... I'd try torx or anything else ( EXcluding Phillips or (!) slotted screws) if i saw an advantage.
Square heads were more popular in the US some years ago, but seem to have given way to Torx.
As an Old Guy who has used screws on everything I would agree with your statements on screw usage and enjoyed the video.
Torx pattern is the key criterion to me, besides the points you said (sizes and types). It does not cause issues while fastening, and the ease and power of screwing is amazing. Regarding sizes, deck screws of 1-1/4" are the ones I like to many applications. 2-1/2" deck screws I use to fasten two 2x4 together.
The Robertson drive is far superior. It’s the only decent thing Canada has ever done.
great list. i would also suggest always get torx head screws. after using them i detest phillips heads.
As a DIYer I’ve often used the drywall screws for small projects and they work great👍🏼
I am so fortunate to have a hardware store in my town (Bexhill UK) where yesterday I went to just buy six screws, pay 63pennies having had personal assistance with my purchase, its extraordinarily rare in our world of superstores and clueless teenage cashiers
I avoid drywall screws unless drywalling. They are prone to rust, but so make sure to use them in only interior dry applications with untreated dry lumber. I keep the general construction screws over the deck screws because they are cheaper and work just as well for dry environments in untreated lumber but do have more resistance to corrosion than drywall screws.
As a retired wood butcher, you are on the spot!👌
Agree 100%. I keep all those screws in my shop except the trim screws.
I live in a rural area, miles from any hardware store. I keep many boxes of deck and drywall screws on hand at all times - lengths range from 1" to 3.5". You're right on how just these two types of screws can handle most any project.
Agreed! I always have fasteners on hand for the just in case I need them. Nothing worse than needing fasteners and having to stop a project and go to the big box store to get them. It’s a time waster. When I see fasteners on sale I usually pick some up. All the sizes and types you mentioned are a must. Thanks for the links! I think I can speak for most we always enjoy your tips and tricks. There is a good reason you have over 700k subscribers!
Good video: Coming in with MY #1 as YOUR #1... 3" deck screws... got my attention right out the gate 👍
Just a couple notes:
-I personally choose 1 5/8" deck screws over 2" because they're plenty long enough for fastening down up to 3/4" sheathing, siding, subflooring, etc. to framing.
-Drywall screws are perceived as brittle because we're in the habit of using impact drivers, which can snap the heads off. Try to get in the habit of using your drill with the drag set, and a dimple bit for drywall.
-I really wish I could find stainless deck or trim screws in Torx instead of square.
I keep a prefilled tray of these that travel with me to every job and your list is matches my list. Thanks for posting!
That’s awesome, Fixin!
At work and at home I keep all extra screws. I use them regularly. This content was helpful. Thank you
Philips head drywall screws were my go-to for decades, but now I've migrated over to T25 screws for most general projects. I only use drywall screws for drywall now.
I spent about 3 years working for a GC who specialized in building and installing metal trusses (using 12-20gauge galvanized steel). We used #12 self tappers to hold them together. I must have driven over 100,000 of those suckers using primarily a DeWalt corded screw gun when building and a DeWalt cordless impact driver for installation. Worked pretty good for 20 to 16 ga and was tough for the thicker gauges, while the teks5 screws would go through ¼" steel with ease.
So I thought it must be the screw. Recently I bought myself one of those surge impact drivers and noticed that it will drive the #12 (teks3) through ¼" plate I've got sitting around with ease. Am pretty amazed at how much the operation/programming of an impact can make such a huge difference.
Of the DIY projects I've finished in my current remodel, I've found the most useful screws for my situations - pantry building, floor patching, panel replacement, and installing a load-bearing beam - are all on your list of screws. Great video!
Please tell me you didn't use a deckmate screw for your "load-bearing" beam? Deckmate scews were NEVER intended to be used for framing or any type of structural purpose. This idiot is giving everyone the wrong advice about deckmate screws.
These deckmate screws are intended to hold deckboards down and for minor exterior fastening.
Thanks for this video. I am renovating a Victorian and have been using 2” and 3” exterior screws for certain things. I was contemplating brass construction screws but they don’t appeal to me. Also I agree drywall screws can be used for a number of things besides drywall!
Because I do a good bit of industrial panel building I keep a bunch of #6 and #8 truss head self-drilling screws in 1/2" to 1" lengths and have found they come in handy for tons of other stuff around the house.
It's an excellent idea to keep extra screws from installation kits. I keep extra screws & save fasteners from a lot of items that I junk out. The only screws I won't keep are any with slotted heads. I detest them.
I framed up some interior 2x4 stud partitions using 2-1/2" and 3-1/4" Spax brand torx head screws. They drove through top plates easily and toenailed studs without a single split.
These walls aren't subject to any shear stresses that may snap the screw.
The bonus is if you make a mistake, you can unscrew and reposition.
My other favorite is spax truss head screw. Perfect for hanging pocket door tracks and cabinets to walls. The head is low profile and wide.
I would include the 1 1/4inch drywall wall screw. Its my go to in my workshop. Since I work in a big box hardware department I will keep your list in mind for my my customers.
Thank you, Daniel! 1-1/4, drywall or exterior, would prob be my next add 🙂
I’ve assembled a collection of most of those screws. The one I like and use the most are “Lath” screws. 1/2” to 2-1/2”. The pan head is shallow and I tend to use self drilling points the most. I use them to build informal cabinets and thin steel tubing. I built a target frame from discarded 1x2 steel bed slates. In wood, I do have to pre-drill the top piece oversized to get it to seat.
I'm from Germany, so I naturally use Spax with Torx head for everything that I may need to unscrew again (Philips is wearing out too fast) or the black drywall screws shown in your video for things I'll never need to unscrew again and when it has to be cheap diy stuff, since Spax are a bit on the expensive side.
For everything on the outside or in wet conditions (century old stone walls, ...) I use stainless steel. I once had to demolish a wooden balkony and the builder used normal or coated screws. Almost all of them broke while unscrewing cause of corrosion. A few more years and the balkony could have collapes due to these wrong screws.
Great video. Think I might pick up some trim screws. I do have a comment on 3" screws (deck screws or others). Personally I lean more towards 2-1/2" screws whenever joining 2x4s, etc. If you countersink 3" screws when joining two-by woods, the sharp tip of the screw will just protrude out the other side. 2-1/2" is plenty long enough for most applications. But yes, it's good to also have 3" screws handy.
1/2” pan head sheet metal screw (#10, #12) is a staple. I’ve used on HVAC units, washers & dryers, gutters, plastic sheds, anything plastic or metal. I never let myself run out of these lovelies.
I’m so glad I found this channel. It’s hard to find people on RUclips that you feel like you can trust with safety information. And I really want to learn more about Woodworking, but I don’t wanna be dumb and hurt myself because I took bad advice online. I would love to see a video on how to choose which type of fastener for which type of work? And how you can tell the difference between fasteners/what to look for when you go to the store. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Honest Carpenter is great. I’d also look into 731 Woodworks. It’s a family team and a huge community with lots of information
Mike
Never thought about it, but as you went through the screws, I realized that those are the ones I always keep on hand, except for the gutter screws. I do keep the self drilling.
I'm glad you said dry wall screws. They get too much hate when sometimes the reality is you need a short screw and don't expect heavy loads.
This is a really good general purpose list! I'm a carpenter and those varieties suit most of my projects at work! I think something else to add to the list would be timberlok's and other lag alternatives, as they're a good alternative to traditional large-diameter lags. Another I would consider adding to the list are 1⅝" cementboard screws, as they're great for installing gypsum board/fiberboard products and thinner plastics. The larger serrated heads do a great job gripping thinner/ more malleable materials without punching through. That being said, maybe add the whole fastener aisle from the hardware store 😂 Cheers, and thank you for this thorough and excellently illustrated guide!!
The drywall screw for quarter inch material made sense, I hadn’t thought of that. I would add the 1.25 wood screw for joining 3/4 plywood to the list.
Glad to know I was on the mark with the 3"-2" star framing/deck screws. Love the drywall screws, use those a lot but I only like the course version as well. Fro metal I use the self tappers but those gutter screws look like a good shorter alternative. Thanks for the video
I have everything you mentioned in the video. Two of my favorites that you didn’t mention are the 1/2” pan head and the 1 1/4” pan head screws that are not self tapping.
3” deck screw was my guess for something that would wind up on this list. As usual, you don’t disappoint.
Since I use mostly 5/8” to 3/4” thick redwood fence pickets for garden projects like planter boxes and pallet style bases for planter pots, I use 8 x 1-3/4” or 8 x 1-5/8” exterior grade flat head Torx wood screws. I do use longer versions of the flat head Torx wood screws or exterior grade lag screws (Spax Powerlag) for attaching two 2” thick lumber.