I watched your video a couple weeks ago and decided to try the Wet n Fix product. We had a hand towel rack in the bathroom that had started pulling out of the wall. The screw in anchor had had enough. I followed the instructions and put 2 layers on the anchor and shoved it back in the hole. I let it dry overnight. Worked perfect - nice and strong with no movement. Thanks again for this video.
Just remove the plastic Molly or screw in anchors and install a butterfly or a expanding anchor , the ones that are made out of metal that close when you place them into the hole but open up on the other side of the drywall! Believe me they work I know im a handyman and fix loose towel and toilet paper holders all the time using these products
I just bought the wet-n-fix and used it yesterday! The only problem I had was getting the wet round disc on the anchor without bunching up which was frustrating. I found it much easier to wrap the disc around the anchor dry and then dip it into water. It worked so much better! I have but hadn’t tried the foam, wood filler, and spackle yet and now I don’t have to! Your videos are great…so glad I found this channel…thank you!
I watched your video and ordered the Wet-N Fix from Amazon. I installed the anchor this morning and waited 1 hour. It worked like a charm, Thank you for the Video!!
A butterfly anchor replacement maybe a better option since the hole is already big to fit the nylon anchor. Will also take less time than applying putty/glue to dry. Has more spread contact with the drywall as well.
Exactly. I encountered this recently hanging a corner shelf. I tried to repair it with putty, twice, drying overnight each time. Both failed. So just went and got butterfly clips…much stronger too.
Nice. What worked for me was fast curing epoxy compound. Applied compound in hole and on the plug. Inserted the plug in wall and waited for an hour for it to turn little hard, then screwed and placed the material that i wanted to hang. It did an amazing job and the area surrounding the hole also turned rock solid. Cheers!!
Yep. I also already tried almost all these methods, and the wet patch was the only one that held up. I even had to use 5 of them on one anchor (a 3-year-old tried to do a pull up on my towel rack).... And after the fix, it's as strong as it was before.
Fill the hole with 2 pack filler ( that’s filler with a hardener compound) then push the plastic plug in while still wet, then screw in when dry, job done I’ve been doing that for 36 years it never fails
Missed you trying Hot glue. I use it often. Even on ceilings to mount lamps and have had good results with it. A second method I have used for decades and know for sure that it functions well (at least with Fisher Univeral Anchors) is to enlarge the hole two sizes. Example 6mm hole to 10mm hole. Set the 10 mm anchor with the wings in the hole at 12 o'clock/6 o'clock and the 6 mm anchor in the 10mm anchor with the wings at 3 o'clock/ 9 o'clock. Screw your object fast and your set to go. No water, no mess and only cost cents instead of dollars. In such cases I recommend "always" to screw by hand. Most applictions are ruined because people use a cordless screwdriver. Nowadays people are in a hurry and damage more than they intended to repair. Just my opinion. Have a good day. 👍
Amazing video! I just fixed my toilet paper roll holder and this saved me so many shoddy solutions and failed attempts. Literally took 5 minutes! Thank you!
I use "Oatey" epoxy adhesive putty. You simply slice off a portion of the stick and mix the puddy with your hands until it becomes one color and feels warm. Then wrap the anchor in the same fashion as in the video. Push any excess in any remaining gaps. In 5 minutes, it will become as hard as stone. This "Oatey" epoxy adhesive putty is fantastic for almost any project (including plumbing draining leaks). It is waterproof and turns completely hard in minutes. In other similar situations, you can drill into it and use a sheet metal screw without an anchor. This versatile product is found in the plumbing department of Lowes or Home Depot. It is better than "Wet-In-Fix". I always keep a tube of this puddy around for various repairs.
as a handyman I would not use any of these but a toggle bolt instead holds better and no waiting when you need to get the job done and it's time sensitive you don't want to waste with patching
I normally use the stay in place toggle bolts. I have changed 100s of these of the years because my kids always hang on stuff and loosen the dry wall anchors. Thanks for sharing another option.
When fixing into drywall (known as plasterboard here in U.K.) I like to “paint” the hole with white PVA adhesive (water based wood glue) mixed with a little water to make it more fluid. It will soak in, harden and reinforce the area. I also coat the fixing itself with PVA. This effectively bonds the fixing to the board and gives it a lot more strength. I use the same technique when assembling flat pack furniture, which is usually made from wood chip board. I paint the edges and corners with it to strengthen them and coat the screws with PVA.
Indeed I have used that on plasterboard, My biggest problem is replacing 5ft light fitting to ceilings guaranteed the old screws are stripped never match up and you end up with a mix of plaster board studs and sometimes metal joists.
But would the wood glue not leave a very smooth surface once it is dried on the "painted hole". And it would be hard for the next layer to bond to that smooth surface? PVA is essentially plastic, isn`t it?
@@el_micha It’s not a problem. If you overdo it and PVA glue gets on the wall you can wipe it off with a damp cloth. But you can also paint over it; in fact I have used watered down interior grade PVA to prime the surface of a newly plastered wall after it’s dried, before applying emulsion paint. Interior grade remains slightly water soluble and it will bond to itself. There is an exterior grade PVA, which is definitely waterproof and I would be more careful with that. But my tip was to paint the hole and the fixing put in.
This video helped so much! We used the recommended Wet N Fix for a loose curtain rod and it worked perfectly!! Truly appreciate how effective and useful this video was!!
I usually use a butterfly or sometimes a toggle type anchor if the hole accidentally becomes to big. Works really well. You may need a washer at times with the toggle style.
Can you send me a link to what butterfly ones you prefer/recommend? I have a job today in a customers home with shelving. Hope you can send it soon! Thanks much !!
Metal butterfly anchor with washer would do the job instead of using any kind of compound based fixes. And it would take 5 minutes to set up. Unless they cant be used for whatever reason.
Of course most of the anchors that you battered up will fail as you've restricted the flexing motion of the anchor by the product you used. Probably would have been best to fill each hole first with the different products, wait until they dry then re-drill the hole and try the anchor again.
@Jack Scorpion - I don’t think you’ve thought that through. Consider the mechanics involved in redrilling a patched hole only millimetres larger that the drill bit. None of the filling compounds would have the physical properties necessary.
@erikjonromnes - possibly so however out of all the options tested the first was really the only option with even some of the basic characteristics required to be successful. I thought it amusing that he would even consider bothering to test most of them!!
Mate, I've been a builder for 35yrs, I've never used fillers, bog or sealants of any kind to anchor in loose screw plugs , as they won't sustain the weight over time, I always use double screw in wing toggles in situations like this, as they have a greater anchor area of hold
Oh my goodness, thank you for this. I had some of that pink stuff I was going to use on an anchor that was being fussy with our curtain rod, but now I won't! I'm so glad I found your channel!
Great Stuff is an insulation (draft barrier) product. Caulk is best known as a flexible moisture barrier and lipstick for tile; commonly used at corners or edges of fields of tile. (Not to be confused with grout.) There are a wide variety of indoor and outdoor caulks. Wood filler is lipstick for wood dings. (If you need to strengthen wood damage consider an epoxy.) Spackle is lipstick for drywall dings. Joint compound creates continuity between edges of drywall boards so the joints are invisible after painting. *NONE OF THE ABOVE* replace the original wall board strength lost by a botched anchor install. Spackle may hide the hole. The above five were designed to do something else. Our presenter included them because they are likely to be "lying around" and used in desperation. Use products in the right contexts. I liked the way the experiment was designed and presented.
@@MsSarcasticSmirk I retired from running a hardware department at a big box home improvement store 4 years ago. So I just looked at their on-line catalog and I'm not seeing the "ultimate" problem solver product anymore and I don't remember its name. If the damage is bad you need something wider than the old hole if you can't move the location. Based on what I just saw, consider anything with the word 'toggle' or 'toggler' in the description. These products turn sideways on the other side of the wall to grab drywall outside of the damage. If you don't have any clearance behind the wall because of brick, cinder block, or other masonry consider using Tapcon products.
Thank you for a very interesting video. I'll definitely be getting some of that WET-N-FIX. Below is a reinforcement that might help the failed tests: My father taught me that any time I have a loose screw hole, fill the hole by sticking as many toothpicks into it as possible, then break off the ends so that the toothpicks are flush with the wall/surface, and then screw the screw into the toothpicks. This has never failed me. The same might work in this type of hole. Instead, you would use the filler material that you used in all of the examples, then poke toothpicks into it while it's still wet, let it dry fully, then break off the ends of the toothpicks, and then screw in your screw without drilling a hole first. Or, if you want to use one of those anchors, you would use the filler material that you used in all of the examples, then insert the anchor into the center, then poke as many toothpicks around the anchor as possible while it's still wet, let it dry fully, then break off the ends of the toothpicks, and then tighten your screw.
I am no construction guy so take this as you will. I crunch up a little drywall into powder and mixed some two part epoxy glue with it. It worked great.
To hang my curtains that kept failing, I used the wood filler and it worked perfect. I use toggle bolts wherever possible but for the curtains, it was cement behind the drywall so couldn't use that. As other people have said, I think the problem here is you're putting the anchors in while it's still wet. If you wait until the different putties are dry and THEN re-screw in the anchors, I feel like it'd hold a lot better. Very cool video though.
cement behind the drywall... Just grab a masonry drill bit and a regular rawl plug and a longer screw, that would be very secure. Failing that you could fill up the hole with drywall adhesive, let it set and that would give you a very strong substance to put your plugs into, make your plasterboard more secure, as well as seal up the hole.
Hi. QQ. Did you apply the wood filler the same way he did in the video or did you apply the filler first, insert the anchor...let it dry..and then the screw?
The trick is to use a "sock" over the filler. It is this mesh that gives strength - you create a composite. So you can use a bandage or pieces of foil. You put it in and push it with a bigger pin, you push the filler in and then you move it back a bit so that a bigger bubble forms at the back. Only later a pin with a small diameter
If it's a low load, like one side of a towel rack like I had, just shim in a toothpick or two and break them off flush with the wall. They shim the extra space enough to let the anchor to grab and expand enough to hold onto the hole.
I would use 5 min mix let it dry and then drill the new hole. Those are the same anchors that I like to use however when they fail I opt for toggle bolt anchors since they require big holes
Thank you! The last time I had a wall anchor tear out I ended up demolishing my house and rebuilding so I could install new anchors. It's worked well so far but in hindsight your method would have saved me over $400,000. I'll definitely try it next time!
Yeah I did the same thing when I accidentally shot a pin nail through my roof. My neighbor told me I probably could have saved a buck or two by putting a little tar on the hole but pffft what the hell would he know about construction? He's just a brain surgeon!
The test that each was subjected to was shear force. Not sure that it would have yielded different results but it would have been good to independently test each under tension. It stands to reason that if the filler is at least as strong or stronger after curing, than the parent material, that the resistance to both shear and pull-out would (to a point) be a function of the contact area between the filler and the surface area of the parent material. The larger the hole, the better the result.
I never try to reuse a blown out hole. I fill it in and make a new one. Gyprock is a pathetic material. I really hate it, nothing but trouble. Good comment!
Great video . Guys the Wet n Fix is nothing but a Orthopedic Plaster bandage which can be cut to shapes. Comes really cheap. A great replacement I must say . A single plaster bandage will last for long , ALso keep some Gypsum plaster of Paris powder handy for filling voids .
Hot glue in the hole and over the Anker , fill the hole by twisting the Anker I'm place .works great. let it harden 5 min and your good to go.Very robust and solid.
I've wrapped the anchor in a few layers of toilet paper and then wet it with either wood glue or water and corn starch. But I was in a hurry to do a quick cosmetic repair rather than do it the right way when I used those methods.
I recommend using an anchor that is wider in diameter to fit snugly in the large hole that you made. It works every time. Don’t fight with getting those compounds to work for installation or even worse risk them failing long term if used to hold heavy items like mirrors or shelves
Not always possible because a wider anchor quite often also needs a bigger screw. The thing yuo'll connect to the wall must be ready for that bigger scres. (I use in this case mostly a (big) hole filler...but that's in a brick wall. And that holds perfectly. (Not sure if that's for sale all over the world).
God bless you for this video, I needed this Edit After one month based on this I used wet n fix and the results are awesome it has saved me lots of money. I am using it for metal shelving and so far they are holding it really well with all the weight I bought some really bad quality wall anchors and they all broke, I initially thought there was something wrong with the wall but it was not the case. After ending up with lots of holes in the drywall I was about to add the rail system costing over $200 I saw this video bought good quality anchor used the same holes with WETNFIX and I am very happy with the results so far
I like the way you test various methods. Such good information for someone like me who knows nothing about being a handyman! Thanks for very informative videos.
What a great video...I have suffered with this issue for years and had to change the hole for the anchor and fill the other with spackling. This was a really nice trial in determining a fix. Thanks for a great new fix.
I'm a painter and run into these when removing items from walls. I carry a bag of those large threaded screw anchors, if you have them around its faster and better than any possible repair.
I had to stop at around 2 min just to like your very illustrative and educative video before moving forward. 5:45 A wonderful logic to compare the efficacy of those five methods with respect to a proper hole.
Butterfly bolts are the way to go anyways. You can use them in any hole on a wall or ceiling.... The real problem with old anchor holes is you cant see the damage on the back side of the drywall sometimes it is much bigger than the hole on the front side and no matter what you do the drywall keeps crumbling and the hole just gets bigger and bigger.
I this case I have had luck with making the hole a bit bigger and feeding a strip of wood, typically about 1/2 in square by 4 inches long. Pre-drill a hole in the middle and feed it in with a piece of thin wire or string in the hole. Pull it tight and put a screw in the hole. Spackle and paint as needed.
Great Video as Usual. On this one you saved a lot DIYERS from a lot of wasted Time and Expense, by showing us, what works and what doesn't. Thanks for these Wonderful Videos.
Wet an fix . It works a treat, I had a radiator fall off the wall in the kitchen it was a nitemare dealing with plaster board etc . Cheers the channel is great 👍
For a hole that's just too big, I'd probably try a Molly bolt of a corresponding diameter first, even if it's overkill and more expensive. I decided long ago that all drywalls (13-15 mm of brittle plaster) were border cases for attaching stuff (it's not a concrete or even wooden wall), so I am sticking to Molly bolts for lifetime sturdy fixtures, because I don't want to risk a kitchen cabinet falling down on a kid grabbing some jam, or a security rail not holding my weight if I slip on the shower floor and need the support. When I hang a light painting frame, I always keep in mind that the same anchor might be supporting a heavy mirror some day when I am fed up with the painting or poster. For larger or damaged holes, why not cut out the damaged part and replace it with a square or circle of new drywall board? You'd need to plaster and plate that new piece to the rest of the main board, so it may not work in all situations, but it's a proper repair that would probably hold better than trying to fill in the hole, especially with compounds that are not the same gypsum plaster of the original drywall. I am actually surprised that there is no better drywall repair options out there, like one where you'd insert some unfolding back board from inside the hole, then fill it with the same gypsum plaster as the drywall board is made of, then drill a new hole once it's dry. If the back board could be 5 mm away from the back of the drywall, even better, as the plaster would not just fill the hole, but also get in between the back board and the drywall board, making the repaired hole even stronger than the original drywall.
You're supposed to join heavy objects, like cabinets, to studs, not drywall. As for shower rails, I'm not aware of anyone who has drywall in their shower! Wetwall, maybe (yes, Virginia, there IS a wetwall!), but, you wouldn't want to attach a safety rail to that either. Use studs (if you need to and are capable, then add your own studs, as I did for a walk-up porch safety rail (elderly and handicapped)), or, assuming you have tile in your bath/shower, get a heavy-duty, suction cup, safety rail. The suction cup rail that I attached in my client's shower is still holding after 3 years! Keep in mind that a suction cup safety rails are not meant to hold full, sustained, weight, for more than a few seconds (having written that, I tested my client's with my total body weight suspended off the ground, and it held for 15 seconds before my grip started hurting!). Cutting out and replacing damaged drywall is no better than the test in the video, because, the drywall joints can fail under the pressure. As for your "unfolding back board" notion, that's what mollys are for, although you'd have to drill a bigger hole. Keep in mind that hollow wall anchors aren't meant to hold tremendous weights; the more weight you have, the bigger and/or more anchors you'd need.
@@skaizun Kitchen cabinets are fine on drywalls with the proper number of adequate anchors. It's not like you have a choice anyway, there are not always studs where you need them, you usually don't know where they are located when you move into a new apartment, and even if you manage to get one side anchored onto a stud, the other side has very little odds to also be on another stud. When building a house, kitchens should probably be fitted with reinforced dry walls on the side(s) where you would hang cabinets. Same for the TV wall in the living room. As for the security rail, it seems quite common in renovated buildings here in France to use dry water repellent drywall for showers in private housing or hotels, as well as in some industrial wet/damp rooms. The main manufacturer here (Placo, from Saint-Gobain group) offers several types. I also put towel hanging rails outside of the tiled area, and while they are not meant to be security rails, it's nice to know they are firmly anchored in place should the need arise. As for cutting our drywalls when the hole if bigger than a Molly anchor, a small cut would be rather fragile indeed.. A bigger cut, from the middle of one stud to the other would be just like putting 2 regular drywall boards together. It also gives access inside where you can put 2 small horizontal studs behind both top and bottom sides to support the big board and the smaller added piece. But that's only if you can finish the piece in the same way the rest of the board is painted or wall-papered, if it's not hidden from view. Anyway, I haven't seen the need yet, it was just me reacting to the products in the video that didn't seem adequate or safe for the job, and trying to figure out how I might broach the matter (and possibly make an even bigger mess!) Sometimes ready-made repair kits are very useful and time-savers, but these looked more like the quick and dirty kind. Also, every decent man or woman that I know has a spare piece of dry wall in the garage, so it saves a trip to the store to buy yet another expensive gadgetry. 😄
Make your own version of Wet & FIX with a filler like sloppy Tetrion or Polyfilla, soaked in a bit of old rag - Cos' That's all it is in Reality!! Don't be fooled into buying stuff you can make for yourself. Tetrion filler can be drilled for dry wall anchors (we call them plasplugs in the UK)
Best to avoid this situation to begin with by using the "Toggle" plastic threaded anchors. I usually pre-drill through the skin with a small bit, especially if there is layers of paint on the surface. I've never had one fail. You can also get them in a shortened version for walls that are attached to furring strips close to a concrete exterior wall.
I'm pretty sure that Wet-N-Fix is nothing more than plaster of Parris and loose cotton gauze. But considering how hard a cast sets up, I'm not surprised. I bet that 5 minute hot mudd and some guaze you might have at home already would do the job too.
Your methods were well thought out and intelligently demonstrated. I truly appreciate your video/information as you've saved me a LOT of time not having to futz with garbage that doesn't work. Cudos to you! Thank you!
Good tests but a toggle bolt is the best option at this point. If someone does not want a toggle bolt, patching over it with hot mud an installing a new anchor 1-2" over or under is a better solution.
@@ProPrince, Generally, your butterfly anchor, although it requires a bigger hole. S dcrew-in anchor is good in standard applications, where not a huge amount of force is hoping to be placed on the anchor. A stud is always a great place to secure ftom.
So glad I watched this....1st time was sitting in my car outside Lowe's and 2nd time inside my warm condo! Thank you so now I can get my job done right! You rock Mr. Fix This House.
I go to the next largest anchor. If a 30 pounder got messed up I go to 50s. It normally fills in the extra space and works. I also like the screw-in style anchors. They seem to be sturdier. Make a video about those if you haven’t already.
Excellent presentation. Your experimental model showed that Wet n' Fix is the right product for this type of job, which I have encountered several times in my DIY career. I have a number of bathroom fixtures that need to be reset. Thanks for providing the solution to my problem.
The answer is of course, never, because the failure suggests that drywall plugs aren't an adequate solution to my mind. But alas that is a more professional mindset. If I wasn't going to do it properly, i'd just put a big plywood plate over the hole and screw into that, well bonded or screwed to the studs. If I'm doing it properly, i'm taking the plasterboard out and putting in a plywood back and putting a fresh piece of plasterboard on and getting it reskimmed, painted, and then going straight in with a regular screw.
This is a fantastic video man. You did this just right, but giving and showing the options on a demo board. You just earned a sub from me, and thanks for showing me exactly what I needed to see to fix the curtains!
thank you! i’m currently trying to figure out how to fix my curtain rod, because my kids tore down my curtains so now I need to fix it, it will helpful helped me.
I've had luck with liquid nails but it's probably not for every application. If I may offer a tip: I like to make an X on the surface so that I can align the loose anchor into the right position using the lines to bullseye the anchor center. It sucks to go through all this trouble only to find the patch is worthless because the bracket (or whatever) doesn't line up with the repair. Cheers!
seconded, though it depends on whatever the hell is hanging off this. I'd be looking at perhaps you need plywould backing or gluing it on or a plywood panel, or changing something to be more appropriate. if it is a floating shelf or something being used/pulled on, or into the ceiling- even wing nuts or butterfly anchors won't cut it.
I'm in the process of fixing toilet paper bracket with small tray that the anchors are loose. My plan is to use a couple small (10/32) toggle wall anchors. I am going to place fender washers between the holder and wall for a little extra wall strength. Good idea. I plan to pick up some of the "Wet N Fix" for future. I have a 40 + year old mobile home with many issues. It keeps me busy.
I just stumbled across your channel but I am impressed with the thoroughness of your test products. I will continue to look for more of your videos. Excellent job!! Well done!!
Do not follow his instructions to the letter, this is by far the worst method you can use, in a case where the hole is too big for your old anchor, take a spring toggle bolt anchors, your installation will be more solid, less waste of time and money.
Gorilla Glue. Put a bit in the hole, a bit on the anchor, put it in and put a piece of painter's tape over it to keep it from pushing out as the glue expands.
Thank you for this!! I had drywall mud, expanding foam, and caulking, and I was all set to try one of those. Now I know not to bother and to just order some Wet-N-Fix, a product I'd never heard of before.
@@FixThisHouse this video made me laugh ...it is a joke right..? First off no one should reuse a anchor if it has been already expanded. Second not one of these fixes will work. overtime they will weaken and these anchors are not tested that way . To test properly you would have to pull put not down . There are better anchors for this job . Also we see these dont work because foam wood filler joint compound are not made for this at all especially caulk .. of course the only actual usable product is the only bbn one that held up... batch the hole.. for f sake
Wayhey! I had some plaster of paris bandage, which is what the wet'n'fix looked like so I've just tried it out. Think I should give it longer than 20 mins before I try though. Perhaps tomorrow. Thank you :D
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
ITEMS I USED ON THIS VIDEO:
- WET-N-FIX Drywall Anchor Repair - amzn.to/3Kaeb08
- 5 Minute Hot Mudd Joint Compound - amzn.to/3IVFTwy
- Drydex Drywall Spackle - amzn.to/3iQoBWS
- Putty Knife 10-in-1 - amzn.to/36IAHyU
- Great STUFF Spray Foam - amzn.to/3uNnkVY
- Digital Hanging Scale - amzn.to/3wOkrXQ
I watched your video a couple weeks ago and decided to try the Wet n Fix product. We had a hand towel rack in the bathroom that had started pulling out of the wall. The screw in anchor had had enough. I followed the instructions and put 2 layers on the anchor and shoved it back in the hole. I let it dry overnight. Worked perfect - nice and strong with no movement. Thanks again for this video.
Just remove the plastic Molly or screw in anchors and install a butterfly or a expanding anchor , the ones that are made out of metal that close when you place them into the hole but open up on the other side of the drywall! Believe me they work I know im a handyman and fix loose towel and toilet paper holders all the time using these products
I just bought the wet-n-fix and used it yesterday! The only problem I had was getting the wet round disc on the anchor without bunching up which was frustrating. I found it much easier to wrap the disc around the anchor dry and then dip it into water. It worked so much better! I have but hadn’t tried the foam, wood filler, and spackle yet and now I don’t have to! Your videos are great…so glad I found this channel…thank you!
Thanks for the wet n fix tip 😉
Dope tip!
Perfect, thanks.
So did it work though.has it held up being 4 months later.
Glad you said to wrap then dip!
I watched your video and ordered the Wet-N Fix from Amazon. I installed the anchor this morning and waited 1 hour. It worked like a charm, Thank you for the Video!!
I’m so glad I could be of help it works amazing!🙏🏽😊 thank you for the feedback!
I just watched it, and just ordered the wt-n-fix. lol gonna solve an issue and get me out of the dog house!
As a laborer here in Seattle, I AM LOVING YOUR VIDEOS!!! I just watched about 2hrs worth of your stuff.
Thank you so much friend! Means a lot for your love and support! 🙏🏽😊
A butterfly anchor replacement maybe a better option since the hole is already big to fit the nylon anchor. Will also take less time than applying putty/glue to dry. Has more spread contact with the drywall as well.
Exactly. I encountered this recently hanging a corner shelf. I tried to repair it with putty, twice, drying overnight each time. Both failed. So just went and got butterfly clips…much stronger too.
Highly agreed, the most effective solution is a butterfly anchor.
Yup we use toggle bolts to hang strut on drywall then strut straps to run conduit on
hollow wall anchor would be better than this as well
I totally agree !!!!
Nice. What worked for me was fast curing epoxy compound. Applied compound in hole and on the plug. Inserted the plug in wall and waited for an hour for it to turn little hard, then screwed and placed the material that i wanted to hang. It did an amazing job and the area surrounding the hole also turned rock solid. Cheers!!
A box of Fix-it--all is really cheap and the powder can be stored forever.
this is what I call a very good educational channel, no BS, no empty talk...THANK YOU!
Thank you so much! Means a lot my Friend! 🙏🏽😊
Exactly.....no life story or trip to the store...straight to the point...great
its all bs, sorry
I ordered the wet n fix and it worked perfectly. I didn’t need to redrill and it took a few minutes to fix and secure. Thanks for the demo!
Yep. I also already tried almost all these methods, and the wet patch was the only one that held up. I even had to use 5 of them on one anchor (a 3-year-old tried to do a pull up on my towel rack).... And after the fix, it's as strong as it was before.
Fill the hole with 2 pack filler ( that’s filler with a hardener compound) then push the plastic plug in while still wet, then screw in when dry, job done I’ve been doing that for 36 years it never fails
What brand?
Thank you so much! I happen to have some anchors that need fixing and now I know how to do it and what to use. You've made an old woman very happy!
Missed you trying Hot glue. I use it often. Even on ceilings to mount lamps and have had good results with it. A second method I have used for decades and know for sure that it functions well (at least with Fisher Univeral Anchors) is to enlarge the hole two sizes. Example 6mm hole to 10mm hole. Set the 10 mm anchor with the wings in the hole at 12 o'clock/6 o'clock and the 6 mm anchor in the 10mm anchor with the wings at 3 o'clock/ 9 o'clock. Screw your object fast and your set to go. No water, no mess and only cost cents instead of dollars. In such cases I recommend "always" to screw by hand. Most applictions are ruined because people use a cordless screwdriver. Nowadays people are in a hurry and damage more than they intended to repair. Just my opinion. Have a good day. 👍
Amazing video! I just fixed my toilet paper roll holder and this saved me so many shoddy solutions and failed attempts. Literally took 5 minutes! Thank you!
I use "Oatey" epoxy adhesive putty. You simply slice off a portion of the stick and mix the puddy with your hands until it becomes one color and feels warm. Then wrap the anchor in the same fashion as in the video. Push any excess in any remaining gaps. In 5 minutes, it will become as hard as stone. This "Oatey" epoxy adhesive putty is fantastic for almost any project (including plumbing draining leaks). It is waterproof and turns completely hard in minutes. In other similar situations, you can drill into it and use a sheet metal screw without an anchor. This versatile product is found in the plumbing department of Lowes or Home Depot. It is better than "Wet-In-Fix". I always keep a tube of this puddy around for various repairs.
as a handyman I would not use any of these but a toggle bolt instead
holds better and no waiting when you need to get the job done and it's time sensitive you don't want to waste with patching
Hi mate do you know of any handyman forums I could join as a handyman myself
@@hexboxx735 no idea
I normally use the stay in place toggle bolts. I have changed 100s of these of the years because my kids always hang on stuff and loosen the dry wall anchors. Thanks for sharing another option.
Thank you for sharing your method!
When fixing into drywall (known as plasterboard here in U.K.) I like to “paint” the hole with white PVA adhesive (water based wood glue) mixed with a little water to make it more fluid. It will soak in, harden and reinforce the area. I also coat the fixing itself with PVA. This effectively bonds the fixing to the board and gives it a lot more strength. I use the same technique when assembling flat pack furniture, which is usually made from wood chip board. I paint the edges and corners with it to strengthen them and coat the screws with PVA.
Thank you so much for sharing this advice to the community! 🙏🏽😊
Indeed I have used that on plasterboard, My biggest problem is replacing 5ft light fitting to ceilings guaranteed the old screws are stripped never match up and you end up with a mix of plaster board studs and sometimes metal joists.
Great tip!! If people did this regularly like you, I bet there would be a lot fewer situations for people to fix.
But would the wood glue not leave a very smooth surface once it is dried on the "painted hole". And it would be hard for the next layer to bond to that smooth surface? PVA is essentially plastic, isn`t it?
@@el_micha It’s not a problem. If you overdo it and PVA glue gets on the wall you can wipe it off with a damp cloth. But you can also paint over it; in fact I have used watered down interior grade PVA to prime the surface of a newly plastered wall after it’s dried, before applying emulsion paint. Interior grade remains slightly water soluble and it will bond to itself. There is an exterior grade PVA, which is definitely waterproof and I would be more careful with that.
But my tip was to paint the hole and the fixing put in.
Thanks!
This video helped so much! We used the recommended Wet N Fix for a loose curtain rod and it worked perfectly!! Truly appreciate how effective and useful this video was!!
I usually use a butterfly or sometimes a toggle type anchor if the hole accidentally becomes to big. Works really well. You may need a washer at times with the toggle style.
Exactly! Total agree1
It's "too big" not "to big"
Can you send me a link to what butterfly ones you prefer/recommend? I have a job today in a customers home with shelving. Hope you can send it soon! Thanks much !!
Metal butterfly anchor with washer would do the job instead of using any kind of compound based fixes.
And it would take 5 minutes to set up.
Unless they cant be used for whatever reason.
The toggle bolt is a permanent fix.
Of course most of the anchors that you battered up will fail as you've restricted the flexing motion of the anchor by the product you used. Probably would have been best to fill each hole first with the different products, wait until they dry then re-drill the hole and try the anchor again.
A method known as "doing it properly". I've no idea why he thought this was a good plan. Basic misunderstanding of how the anchors work maybe?
@Jack Scorpion - I don’t think you’ve thought that through. Consider the mechanics involved in redrilling a patched hole only millimetres larger that the drill bit. None of the filling compounds would have the physical properties necessary.
@erikjonromnes - possibly so however out of all the options tested the first was really the only option with even some of the basic characteristics required to be successful. I thought it amusing that he would even consider bothering to test most of them!!
@@Anthonykelly-eq4pf instead of strawmen, strawrepairproducts.
Those products aren't drillable . That would not work .
Mate, I've been a builder for 35yrs, I've never used fillers, bog or sealants of any kind to anchor in loose screw plugs , as they won't sustain the weight over time, I always use double screw in wing toggles in situations like this, as they have a greater anchor area of hold
Does this work when the hold is double or triple the size of the anchor?
Thanks
Oh my goodness, thank you for this. I had some of that pink stuff I was going to use on an anchor that was being fussy with our curtain rod, but now I won't! I'm so glad I found your channel!
Great Stuff is an insulation (draft barrier) product.
Caulk is best known as a flexible moisture barrier and lipstick for tile; commonly used at corners or edges of fields of tile. (Not to be confused with grout.) There are a wide variety of indoor and outdoor caulks.
Wood filler is lipstick for wood dings. (If you need to strengthen wood damage consider an epoxy.)
Spackle is lipstick for drywall dings.
Joint compound creates continuity between edges of drywall boards so the joints are invisible after painting.
*NONE OF THE ABOVE* replace the original wall board strength lost by a botched anchor install. Spackle may hide the hole.
The above five were designed to do something else. Our presenter included them because they are likely to be "lying around" and used in desperation. Use products in the right contexts.
I liked the way the experiment was designed and presented.
Then what do you recommend using?
@@MsSarcasticSmirk I retired from running a hardware department at a big box home improvement store 4 years ago. So I just looked at their on-line catalog and I'm not seeing the "ultimate" problem solver product anymore and I don't remember its name.
If the damage is bad you need something wider than the old hole if you can't move the location. Based on what I just saw, consider anything with the word 'toggle' or 'toggler' in the description. These products turn sideways on the other side of the wall to grab drywall outside of the damage. If you don't have any clearance behind the wall because of brick, cinder block, or other masonry consider using Tapcon products.
@@bagoquarks Thanks!
You went the extra mile for sure, great testing with measureable results... GOOD JOB !!!
You are a high quality guy with down to earth and humble attitude. Keep up the great work.
Thank you so much for the love and support 🙏🏽!
Thank you for a very interesting video. I'll definitely be getting some of that WET-N-FIX. Below is a reinforcement that might help the failed tests:
My father taught me that any time I have a loose screw hole, fill the hole by sticking as many toothpicks into it as possible, then break off the ends so that the toothpicks are flush with the wall/surface, and then screw the screw into the toothpicks. This has never failed me.
The same might work in this type of hole. Instead, you would use the filler material that you used in all of the examples, then poke toothpicks into it while it's still wet, let it dry fully, then break off the ends of the toothpicks, and then screw in your screw without drilling a hole first.
Or, if you want to use one of those anchors, you would use the filler material that you used in all of the examples, then insert the anchor into the center, then poke as many toothpicks around the anchor as possible while it's still wet, let it dry fully, then break off the ends of the toothpicks, and then tighten your screw.
I am no construction guy so take this as you will. I crunch up a little drywall into powder and mixed some two part epoxy glue with it. It worked great.
To hang my curtains that kept failing, I used the wood filler and it worked perfect. I use toggle bolts wherever possible but for the curtains, it was cement behind the drywall so couldn't use that. As other people have said, I think the problem here is you're putting the anchors in while it's still wet. If you wait until the different putties are dry and THEN re-screw in the anchors, I feel like it'd hold a lot better. Very cool video though.
cement behind the drywall... Just grab a masonry drill bit and a regular rawl plug and a longer screw, that would be very secure.
Failing that you could fill up the hole with drywall adhesive, let it set and that would give you a very strong substance to put your plugs into, make your plasterboard more secure, as well as seal up the hole.
Hi. QQ.
Did you apply the wood filler the same way he did in the video or did you apply the filler first, insert the anchor...let it dry..and then the screw?
The trick is to use a "sock" over the filler. It is this mesh that gives strength - you create a composite. So you can use a bandage or pieces of foil. You put it in and push it with a bigger pin, you push the filler in and then you move it back a bit so that a bigger bubble forms at the back. Only later a pin with a small diameter
That makes sense that that's why the wet n fix worked so well
If it's a low load, like one side of a towel rack like I had, just shim in a toothpick or two and break them off flush with the wall. They shim the extra space enough to let the anchor to grab and expand enough to hold onto the hole.
I recently used a Chalking gun and pushed PL Construction Adhesive into the ragged hole then pushed the Lag back in. Easy pezy!
I would use 5 min mix let it dry and then drill the new hole. Those are the same anchors that I like to use however when they fail I opt for toggle bolt anchors since they require big holes
Thank you! The last time I had a wall anchor tear out I ended up demolishing my house and rebuilding so I could install new anchors. It's worked well so far but in hindsight your method would have saved me over $400,000. I'll definitely try it next time!
Yeah I did the same thing when I accidentally shot a pin nail through my roof. My neighbor told me I probably could have saved a buck or two by putting a little tar on the hole but pffft what the hell would he know about construction? He's just a brain surgeon!
Funniest comments ever
YOOOOOOOOOOUUU IDIOT! All Ya' Had to do was flip the drywall so the hole's on the inside of the wall! GEEZ!
That’s why I avoid all anchors and gamble on just screws
The test that each was subjected to was shear force. Not sure that it would have yielded different results but it would have been good to independently test each under tension. It stands to reason that if the filler is at least as strong or stronger after curing, than the parent material, that the resistance to both shear and pull-out would (to a point) be a function of the contact area between the filler and the surface area of the parent material. The larger the hole, the better the result.
yeah...I don't think we need to do any of that. Wet & fix is the way to go it seems no reason to use anything else other than hot mudd
I never try to reuse a blown out hole. I fill it in and make a new one. Gyprock is a pathetic material. I really hate it, nothing but trouble.
Good comment!
@@martinvanburen4578 Yes, your'e definitely correct on that one. Wet & Fix is obviously the way to go.
Great video . Guys the Wet n Fix is nothing but a Orthopedic Plaster bandage which can be cut to shapes. Comes really cheap. A great replacement I must say . A single plaster bandage will last for long , ALso keep some Gypsum plaster of Paris powder handy for filling voids .
Fantastic tip! This DIY drywall anchor repair is a game changer - so simple and effective!
Hot glue in the hole and over the Anker , fill the hole by twisting the Anker I'm place .works great.
let it harden 5 min and your good to go.Very robust and solid.
I've wrapped the anchor in a few layers of toilet paper and then wet it with either wood glue or water and corn starch. But I was in a hurry to do a quick cosmetic repair rather than do it the right way when I used those methods.
By hot glue do you mean regular glue gun?
I recommend using an anchor that is wider in diameter to fit snugly in the large hole that you made. It works every time.
Don’t fight with getting those compounds to work for installation or even worse risk them failing long term if used to hold heavy items like mirrors or shelves
Not always possible because a wider anchor quite often also needs a bigger screw. The thing yuo'll connect to the wall must be ready for that bigger scres.
(I use in this case mostly a (big) hole filler...but that's in a brick wall. And that holds perfectly. (Not sure if that's for sale all over the world).
Exactly wile your in the store just buy the fatter fixing ffs
The only thing to hold weights over 10 pounds is drill into stud or use butterfly anchor that flips out and grips the back.
Well of course that would be the proper way to do it but this guy doesn't make money if he shows you a solution that easy or that appropriate
@@reiniernn9071 sure it’s possible. It’s called a Molly. No bigger hole or bolt
than this (Mollys use bolts not screws)
God bless you for this video, I needed this
Edit After one month
based on this I used wet n fix and the results are awesome it has saved me lots of money. I am using it for metal shelving and so far they are holding it really well with all the weight
I bought some really bad quality wall anchors and they all broke, I initially thought there was something wrong with the wall but it was not the case. After ending up with lots of holes in the drywall I was about to add the rail system costing over $200 I saw this video bought good quality anchor used the same holes with WETNFIX and I am very happy with the results so far
U managed to insert God into the the daily conversation
@@cemasti4524 I am just wishing him or praying for him, this video has me saved lots of money and hassle
@@cemasti4524 You managed to find and complain about God out of all 1,727 comments. God bless.
I like the way you test various methods. Such good information for someone like me who knows nothing about being a handyman! Thanks for very informative videos.
I tried the Wet N' Fix last week, and it works like a charm, though I let it dry for 2 hours instead of the suggested 3 minutes.
I’m glad it was able to help you out my friend! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
What a great video...I have suffered with this issue for years and had to change the hole for the anchor and fill the other with spackling. This was a really nice trial in determining a fix. Thanks for a great new fix.
Is this an ad for the Wet-N-Fix Product?
I happened to choose a similar one to the first product when I messed up a wall. Happy I did.
Thanks for the other tests. Saves us all time. 👍🏾
I'm a painter and run into these when removing items from walls. I carry a bag of those large threaded screw anchors, if you have them around its faster and better than any possible repair.
Those large threaded anchors dont work when the drywall is damp and weakened causing the anchor to spinout inside the hole
I had to stop at around 2 min just to like your very illustrative and educative video before moving forward.
5:45 A wonderful logic to compare the efficacy of those five methods with respect to a proper hole.
Thank you so much for the love and support! 🙏🏽😊
Butterfly bolts are the way to go anyways. You can use them in any hole on a wall or ceiling.... The real problem with old anchor holes is you cant see the damage on the back side of the drywall sometimes it is much bigger than the hole on the front side and no matter what you do the drywall keeps crumbling and the hole just gets bigger and bigger.
it isn't sometimes, its essentially always. as pressure applies to the fixing the front acts as a pivot and the back gets destroyed.
I this case I have had luck with making the hole a bit bigger and feeding a strip of wood, typically about 1/2 in square by 4 inches long. Pre-drill a hole in the middle and feed it in with a piece of thin wire or string in the hole. Pull it tight and put a screw in the hole. Spackle and paint as needed.
Great Video as Usual. On this one you saved a lot DIYERS from a lot of wasted Time and Expense, by showing us, what works and what doesn't. Thanks for these Wonderful Videos.
Thank you so much for the amazing feedback! I really appreciate it and it means a lot as a content creator 🙏🏽😊😭
@@FixThisHouse You earned the praise with your Great and Informative Videos.
A no mess solution would be to use a toggle bolt in the existing hole. Works great!
Thanks for uploading this video. Stumbled on this video after our curtain rod was ripped from the hole. It was very informative.
Wet an fix . It works a treat, I had a radiator fall off the wall in the kitchen it was a nitemare dealing with plaster board etc . Cheers the channel is great 👍
For a hole that's just too big, I'd probably try a Molly bolt of a corresponding diameter first, even if it's overkill and more expensive. I decided long ago that all drywalls (13-15 mm of brittle plaster) were border cases for attaching stuff (it's not a concrete or even wooden wall), so I am sticking to Molly bolts for lifetime sturdy fixtures, because I don't want to risk a kitchen cabinet falling down on a kid grabbing some jam, or a security rail not holding my weight if I slip on the shower floor and need the support. When I hang a light painting frame, I always keep in mind that the same anchor might be supporting a heavy mirror some day when I am fed up with the painting or poster.
For larger or damaged holes, why not cut out the damaged part and replace it with a square or circle of new drywall board? You'd need to plaster and plate that new piece to the rest of the main board, so it may not work in all situations, but it's a proper repair that would probably hold better than trying to fill in the hole, especially with compounds that are not the same gypsum plaster of the original drywall.
I am actually surprised that there is no better drywall repair options out there, like one where you'd insert some unfolding back board from inside the hole, then fill it with the same gypsum plaster as the drywall board is made of, then drill a new hole once it's dry. If the back board could be 5 mm away from the back of the drywall, even better, as the plaster would not just fill the hole, but also get in between the back board and the drywall board, making the repaired hole even stronger than the original drywall.
You're supposed to join heavy objects, like cabinets, to studs, not drywall. As for shower rails, I'm not aware of anyone who has drywall in their shower! Wetwall, maybe (yes, Virginia, there IS a wetwall!), but, you wouldn't want to attach a safety rail to that either. Use studs (if you need to and are capable, then add your own studs, as I did for a walk-up porch safety rail (elderly and handicapped)), or, assuming you have tile in your bath/shower, get a heavy-duty, suction cup, safety rail. The suction cup rail that I attached in my client's shower is still holding after 3 years! Keep in mind that a suction cup safety rails are not meant to hold full, sustained, weight, for more than a few seconds (having written that, I tested my client's with my total body weight suspended off the ground, and it held for 15 seconds before my grip started hurting!).
Cutting out and replacing damaged drywall is no better than the test in the video,
because, the drywall joints can fail under the pressure.
As for your "unfolding back board" notion, that's what mollys are for, although you'd have to drill a bigger hole.
Keep in mind that hollow wall anchors aren't meant to hold tremendous weights; the more weight you have, the bigger and/or more anchors you'd need.
@@skaizun Kitchen cabinets are fine on drywalls with the proper number of adequate anchors. It's not like you have a choice anyway, there are not always studs where you need them, you usually don't know where they are located when you move into a new apartment, and even if you manage to get one side anchored onto a stud, the other side has very little odds to also be on another stud.
When building a house, kitchens should probably be fitted with reinforced dry walls on the side(s) where you would hang cabinets. Same for the TV wall in the living room.
As for the security rail, it seems quite common in renovated buildings here in France to use dry water repellent drywall for showers in private housing or hotels, as well as in some industrial wet/damp rooms. The main manufacturer here (Placo, from Saint-Gobain group) offers several types.
I also put towel hanging rails outside of the tiled area, and while they are not meant to be security rails, it's nice to know they are firmly anchored in place should the need arise.
As for cutting our drywalls when the hole if bigger than a Molly anchor, a small cut would be rather fragile indeed.. A bigger cut, from the middle of one stud to the other would be just like putting 2 regular drywall boards together. It also gives access inside where you can put 2 small horizontal studs behind both top and bottom sides to support the big board and the smaller added piece. But that's only if you can finish the piece in the same way the rest of the board is painted or wall-papered, if it's not hidden from view.
Anyway, I haven't seen the need yet, it was just me reacting to the products in the video that didn't seem adequate or safe for the job, and trying to figure out how I might broach the matter (and possibly make an even bigger mess!) Sometimes ready-made repair kits are very useful and time-savers, but these looked more like the quick and dirty kind. Also, every decent man or woman that I know has a spare piece of dry wall in the garage, so it saves a trip to the store to buy yet another expensive gadgetry. 😄
Make your own version of Wet & FIX with a filler like sloppy Tetrion or Polyfilla, soaked in a bit of old rag - Cos' That's all it is in Reality!! Don't be fooled into buying stuff you can make for yourself. Tetrion filler can be drilled for dry wall anchors (we call them plasplugs in the UK)
Best to avoid this situation to begin with by using the "Toggle" plastic threaded anchors. I usually pre-drill through the skin with a small bit, especially if there is layers of paint on the surface. I've never had one fail. You can also get them in a shortened version for walls that are attached to furring strips close to a concrete exterior wall.
Where do you get the shorter versions from?
@@qasion both Home Depot and Lowe's have them
Which is great if your the builder but what about the buyer.
@@LilacKatz12 I was referring to the buyer / homeowner
Until you need to unscrew something and replace the screw and discover your toggle fell. Go with Mollies instead from the beginning. Always.
I just did this a few days ago. Mix Elmer's glue and spackle. Let dry 24 hours. Then drill hole and insert anchor. Worked for me.
Wet n fix really worked. I was very doubtful, but still optimistic and it did work. Thank you for sharing.
I would use a toggle anchor for this size of holes.
That will work too 👍🏽😊
😎🇲🇽🍺👍100% rigth
Installation:
1:08 - Wet n Fix
2:48 - Pink Spackle
3:23 - Expansion Foam
4:09 - Wood Filler
4:35 - Caulking
4:55 - Hot Mudd Joint Compound
5:39 - Drywall Anchor
Testing:
6:15 - Drywall Anchor
6:52 - Wet n Fix - Pass
7:28 - Pink Spackle - FAIL
7:55 Expansion Foam - FAIL
8:08 - Wood Filler - FAIL
8:20 - Caulking - FAIL
8:31 - Hot Mudd Joint Compound - Pass
Thanks for this rundown! 🎉
I'm pretty sure that Wet-N-Fix is nothing more than plaster of Parris and loose cotton gauze. But considering how hard a cast sets up, I'm not surprised. I bet that 5 minute hot mudd and some guaze you might have at home already would do the job too.
I had a similar problem and I used "Plastic Wood". It worked excellent and was simple to use
Your methods were well thought out and intelligently demonstrated. I truly appreciate your video/information as you've saved me a LOT of time not having to futz with garbage that doesn't work. Cudos to you! Thank you!
Good tests but a toggle bolt is the best option at this point. If someone does not want a toggle bolt, patching over it with hot mud an installing a new anchor 1-2" over or under is a better solution.
I am a maintenance man for 30 years, and yes toggle bolts are the key.
Fun video to watch. Most of these fixes were easy to see that they wouldn't work, but I can see inexperienced homeowners trying each of these methods.
which one works
@@ProPrince, Generally, your butterfly anchor, although it requires a bigger hole.
S dcrew-in anchor is good in standard applications, where not a huge amount of force is hoping to be placed on the anchor.
A stud is always a great place to secure ftom.
So glad I watched this....1st time was sitting in my car outside Lowe's and 2nd time inside my warm condo! Thank you so now I can get my job done right! You rock Mr. Fix This House.
Thanks for the video. Bondo All-Purpose Putty may be another option to consider.
I go to the next largest anchor. If a 30 pounder got messed up I go to 50s. It normally fills in the extra space and works.
I also like the screw-in style anchors. They seem to be sturdier.
Make a video about those if you haven’t already.
Excellent presentation. Your experimental model showed that Wet n' Fix is the right product for this type of job, which I have encountered several times in my DIY career. I have a number of bathroom fixtures that need to be reset. Thanks for providing the solution to my problem.
The answer is of course, never, because the failure suggests that drywall plugs aren't an adequate solution to my mind. But alas that is a more professional mindset. If I wasn't going to do it properly, i'd just put a big plywood plate over the hole and screw into that, well bonded or screwed to the studs. If I'm doing it properly, i'm taking the plasterboard out and putting in a plywood back and putting a fresh piece of plasterboard on and getting it reskimmed, painted, and then going straight in with a regular screw.
@@carbon1255 what if you just wanna hang some $5 paintings
This is a fantastic video man. You did this just right, but giving and showing the options on a demo board. You just earned a sub from me, and thanks for showing me exactly what I needed to see to fix the curtains!
Thank you so much Loren! 🙏🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse no thank you. I think I might repair a lot of stuff thanks to you. I'll spread the work my friend, thank you 😊
thank you! i’m currently trying to figure out how to fix my curtain rod, because my kids tore down my curtains so now I need to fix it, it will helpful helped me.
Thank you for the vid. I got some of the Wet & Fix last week to fix a blind. Putting it up today. I'll report back later to tell if it worked
I used wet n fix before seeing your video. I’m glad it passed your test and was number 1! Worked very great for my application too
I’m glad I could be of help Lee! Thank you for the love and support! 👍🏽😊
Thank you, this was great for those household jobs, where I need this sort of fix, very informative!
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
I've had luck with liquid nails but it's probably not for every application. If I may offer a tip: I like to make an X on the surface so that I can align the loose anchor into the right position using the lines to bullseye the anchor center. It sucks to go through all this trouble only to find the patch is worthless because the bracket (or whatever) doesn't line up with the repair. Cheers!
A Toggle bolt with a wing nut or Butterfly anchor would work way better considering the fact that the hole in the drywall is that big…
Thank you 🙏🏽 for the feedback!
seconded, though it depends on whatever the hell is hanging off this. I'd be looking at perhaps you need plywould backing or gluing it on or a plywood panel, or changing something to be more appropriate. if it is a floating shelf or something being used/pulled on, or into the ceiling- even wing nuts or butterfly anchors won't cut it.
I'm in the process of fixing toilet paper bracket with small tray that the anchors are loose. My plan is to use a couple small (10/32) toggle wall anchors. I am going to place fender washers between the holder and wall for a little extra wall strength.
Good idea. I plan to pick up some of the "Wet N Fix" for future. I have a 40 + year old mobile home with many issues. It keeps me busy.
Great reviews! I JUST put spackle on my walls....ughhhh.... but I'll be purchasing what held up on your video. Thanks!!
I just stumbled across your channel but I am impressed with the thoroughness of your test products. I will continue to look for more of your videos. Excellent job!! Well done!!
wow I wasn't expecting such a in-depth study !! Really well done - I subbed!
Thank you so much! Means a lot for your love and support! 🙏🏽😊
That was outstanding! Why didn’t I have this 20 years ago; how many walls I’d have saved! Thank you so much 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
I have another solution for you. JB Weld. The yellow and black one. It's worked for me everytime I've tried it. Alittle messy but holds up.
This was so informative. You sure saved us a lot of time, frustration, expense, added trips. Thanks so much
Great job. Appreciate all the work that went into this. Super helpful!!!
Do not follow his instructions to the letter, this is by far the worst method you can use, in a case where the hole is too big for your old anchor, take a spring toggle bolt anchors, your installation will be more solid, less waste of time and money.
@@foxgood How is by far the worst method? Where's your video demonstrating this?
Great job! Very well thought out and thorough. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
GREAT VIDEO. Not only did you tell us your results you showed us the actual testing. Brilliant!! Thank You
Good testing. I do like that you tried several different methods. Saved me to trouble, thanks
Thank you so much! Please stay tuned I will be doing a test of most suggestions on the comments, video in the making and out soon 👍🏽😊
thanks this was helpful. I couldn't find the wet and dry paper mache stuff. I ended up using some kind of construction adhesive stuff that worked well
Gorilla Glue. Put a bit in the hole, a bit on the anchor, put it in and put a piece of painter's tape over it to keep it from pushing out as the glue expands.
Thanks for this tip
Great vid ! I was actually looking for a solution on this few days ago …. You made my day 👍 awesome
I’m so glad I could be of help ! Thank so much for your support! Wish you the best! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Thank you for the video. It was exactly what I needed to see before attempting my own fix.
Thank you for watching! I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
I used the wet-n-fix after watching this video and it worked perfectly. Thanks so much for this vid!
Thank you for this!! I had drywall mud, expanding foam, and caulking, and I was all set to try one of those. Now I know not to bother and to just order some Wet-N-Fix, a product I'd never heard of before.
I really like your videos. My house has so many problems i'm about ready to start my own channel. It'll be called "F--k this house!" LOL
You made me laugh so hard with this comment! Best one yet! This deserves a Pin! 😂
@@FixThisHouse Thanks for all the hard work w/your videos!
@@FixThisHouse o
@@FixThisHouse this video made me laugh ...it is a joke right..? First off no one should reuse a anchor if it has been already expanded. Second not one of these fixes will work. overtime they will weaken and these anchors are not tested that way . To test properly you would have to pull put not down . There are better anchors for this job . Also we see these dont work because foam wood filler joint compound are not made for this at all especially caulk .. of course the only actual usable product is the only bbn one that held up... batch the hole.. for f sake
And the award for hardcore comment of the year goes to...
I used a wet n fix on my girlfriend! It never fixed her Hole!
It’s because in her case she might be needed 6 cubic meters of concrete.
Thanks for all your vids! Do you think you can make one on how to properly install a simple closet rod and shelf?
Thank you for this! I was able to fix a loose anchor with the 5 Minute Hot Mudd Joint Compound and it worked great.
Wayhey! I had some plaster of paris bandage, which is what the wet'n'fix looked like so I've just tried it out. Think I should give it longer than 20 mins before I try though. Perhaps tomorrow. Thank you :D
The Wet & Fix product was an interesting solution. Never seen before.