10 Mistakes Buying Wood - Don't Waste Your Money
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- Опубликовано: 17 май 2024
- Avoid these 10 Mistakes Buying Lumber at Home Depot or any big box store.
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0:00 Keep an eye out for these
2:12 I was in the pool!
3:01 Use these to find the good wood
4:08 Don't get so sappy
5:36 It's just the piths
6:54 This is why I'm weird
8:39 Should you even buy this stuff?
10:16 Pine is not fine
12:12 Protect your feet
13:02 Go big
14:42 Save some money with this one
16:00 Bonus tip
16:25 Value your time
17:53 Just don't do this 
Хобби
Buying Plywood? Make sure to watch this video first!
ruclips.net/video/eBbUByyLGVc/видео.html
Easiest way to get 4X8s and 2x4s and such to your house when all you have is a sedan?
👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks. I went to school with Sprague Limbaugh and had I said "I knew that guy......"
4:16
I would not have predicted I would watch a 20-minute video on buying wood. I don't even work with wood, but I found this very educational and entertaining. Thanks!
For the first deck I ever built, I ordered all the framing lumber to be delivered. I’ll never forget my dad and I doing the best we could with some of the garbage they sent us. For subsequent homes, every single beam, post and joist board was hand picked for the deck. It took forever, but was so worth it.
They love people who just order the wood. Let's them get rid of their unsellable garbage.
If you're a bigger customer they are happy to let you pick bad ones out of the lumber they deliver.
I even told them that I expect them to pick up and replace any I didn't accept. The guy I used a couple times was happy with that deal.
But surprise I got really good stuff from them with almost nothing I rejected.
we had some sent back during a large reno in 2011. NOPE! take it back and bring something decent.
These defects pretty much eliminate all Lowes and HD wood
Must have been menards.
When sorting wood, the number 1 golden rule is Stack and face the lumber as you sort, never leave the bunk a huge mess and never, never toss boards aside in to other bundles. No one wants to come after you can have to deal with the big mess you made. Many yards won't let you sort wood for this reason.
If a yard won't let me pick through the stack then I'm buying somewhere else.
If they let you sort through the lumber piles, leave the piles better than when you came in. Then you will never have a problem.
Please do make a video on buying wood from a lumber supplier/building supplier. I've avoided trying to go there because I feel intimidated thinking that they cater to pros and construction people who buy lots of wood, and would be annoyed by someone looking through the piles just to buy a few boards.
good feedback, I think a lot of folks feel that way
Yeah I feel the same way.
I used to feel the same here in Trinidad. Isn't as intimidating as I initially thought it would be. I go, look through the stacks of lumber, pack back if necessary and make my purchase. At the end of the day, you're spending YOUR money. Pretty sure the guys at the lumber yard won't mind either
I feel the same.
I kind of feel the same. Without knowing the "culture" and the people there, I would definitely feel out of place. I'm sure they'd gladly take my money, but I'd still feel like an outsider.
Very interesting video. If I can add: Keep all of lumber that you don't use. There are plenty of times that you need a small piece of wood and you will already have it from a previous project. Saves money because you've already paid for it and saves time because you already have it.
In the past 6 years, I've seen a lot more bark on construction lumber compared to anything I bought prior to 2017. For some reason, in spring 2017, I noticed home depot, lowes, and menards had bark on a couple pieces of 2x8 and larger. Now I see it even on 2x3 and up on construction lumber and rough sawn hardwoods and sadly, even cedar!
I did manage to get some discount when I asked for it, purposefully selecting pieces with bark. I didn't matter for my purposes. In fact one board was so ridiculous the clerk just told me to take it for free, on top of the stuff I bought. But that was before the lumber shortage and price hikes, so maybe today an employee would just suggest choosing better pieces instead.
My guess would be the mills are trying to squeeze as much profit as possible out of the lumber they're getting, so they've loosened their tolerances.
@claptree3217 Agree with your statement. But, I also think that the older mills had lead sawyers with significantly more skill and/or had on-site inspectors that wouldn't let logs pass through the debarker or barking drum until and unless they had gotten 90-95% of the bark. The rest, they figured, would get cut out. But, as you said, they let their tolerances expand, maybe computerized more of the work, and figured that if they don't hear too many complaints, they can maximize their profits.
Because the trees being harvested are smaller?
Great video Brad! I really appreciate you going over this topic in the depth you did. I'd definitely like to watch your take on buying lumber at a hardwood store or lumber supply store!
I'm getting back in to woodworking after not having done it in Years (Aside from a few small projects).
This Video, and your channel overall, has been a Great Help and Inspiration!
Another great option is to find a place that sells reclaimed lumber or architectural salvage. You can often get great deals on all kinds of wood. I recently bought some Long-leaf pine from a reclaimed lumber yard. It's a species that's nearly extinct and is about as hard as red oak. So you can find great deals on unusual stuff. An added benefit is that because of the age it's almost all very dry and there's limited wood movement
I bought a pile of 2x12s from Home Depot right before COVID started. I looked through their stack every few days to find 1 or 2 worth buying. I stacked them with spacers for a year or so, then brought them from Georgia to Colorado with me where they have been aging for the past year. They might be about ready for a project or two. :D
I built a 6 ft long kitchen table from 2X6 yellow pine for the top from Home Depot about 20 years ago. I used dowel pins and routed a V grove between each board it is still strong and solid today. Clear coated it with poly.
Home Depot and Lowes has nice flat floors. If you don't feel secure about visually checking boards lay it on the floor, all four sides. Easy!
I used to have access to commercial 2x8 pallet wood (used for shipping raw 12x12 and 12x16 glass sheets). After denailing, I had both clear pine boards and some very interesting wood where a branch was fully embedded by surrounding clear grain, grain zigzagy and other interesting features. I milled them into unique kitchen cabinets and furniture for an off-the-grid dwelling.
If you have a glass shop in your area, ask them if you can get their pallets. They just send them to the landfill.
Great tips and great presentation. A lot of those my dad taught me growing up. For what its worth SYP is not a specific species but rather a group of species. Typically these are the pines of the south and can be loblolly pine, longleaf pine, shortleaf pine, or slash pine. Though there are a few other species it can also be but those are the most common and most often planted.
Great summary and reminder, very well done, thanks for sharing it
Such a great video, love it! ❤ Thank you for all the tips!
PLEASE do a video going to a lumber yard that would be awesome. I would love some tips on how to find a good piece that has a good price. That has been the thing that was keeping me from going for a little bit.
Most times I'm not doing anything that requires just the best lumber. I pick through it though and don't buy it if it's too wacky. Didn't realize till recently wide boards were better and could cut into 2X4's. Makes sense. A few other things you mentioned that will be helpful I hadn't thought about before. Thanks, good video and info.
If someone hasn't said it, (in our area we also get) there's also Hemlock pine. It's got a density between Spruce pine (white wood) and Douglas Fir. It's got a light brownish darker grain in with the whiter streaks. It can sometimes be confused with Douglas Fir if you're not paying attention. What others said about Poplar being a hardwood, just softer than most.
Splendidly thorough.
Terrific video. Great information. Thanks, Al
Great tips in buying lumber! We will definetly need to look out for that soon!
Great video, keep up the great work. Just wanted to let you know that Douglas fir and southern yellow pine are their own separate species that are not included in the Spruce-pine-fir species according to the NDS
I live in Franklin as well and I can definitely attest to the quality of lumber going down hill. I used to be a Home Depot store manager and we could always tell how bad the supply was by the number of picked over pieces. Lately I see a bigger pile of picked over pieces than I ever did 20 years ago when I worked there. Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Really excellent tips, Brad! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great video with good info. In terms of Poplar, it is a “hardwood”, it is just not a “hard” wood. Balsa wood is classified as a hardwod, but is definitely no very hard, even softer than pine.
yes, I realized I mispoke during editing. it "technically" is a hardwood, but not a hard wood, lol
Poplar gets a bad rep because it's such an uneven wood as far as color. Many green, white, brown etc areas depending on the cut. Most people say it's best used with paint but I found it works great with dark oil stains too.
I've been able to mimic a nice dark cherry wood look using light coats of Minwax Mahogany oil stain.
@@valvenator I like working with it, and I satin it all the time. Looks great.
@@scottmorris4914 Have you tried it with lighter stains? I find that the medium darker stains hide the imperfections nicely but still let the grain patterns show through.
I would love to have you do a video on buying from a lumberyard ..pros and cons perhaps. Love your channel!
I wished that you had created this video 5 months ago, when I did a woodworking project of making my version of IKEA style Ivar shelves. Some of the pieces of wood that I used had some bends. Now I know what to look for, when I start my next woodworking project, later this Spring.
Great advice, learned a lot in this video, Brad! I just wish I could get my hands on 2x4 cedar lumber here in my part of California. Just can't seem to find it in the big box stores or my local lumber yards.
Great video! thanks for the tips! As a new woodworker I would love to see a video on buying from a local lumber yard in small quantities. They have a Rockler here but man is it expensive!!!!
I’m Australian and when I was living in Ontario I let some Home Depot/Lowes employees know that in Aus i used to call warped wood: boomerangs. It was always received well except once when the guy turned and said to me “you’re a long way from Australia, around here we call them hockey sticks”
Excellent video. Thank you.
Amazing video thanks !
Southern Yellow Pine and Douglas Fir are actually both harder than Poplar. SYP actually has strength characteristics close to Red Oak aside from raw hardness. It will definitely hold up as furniture if made properly.
Being a deck builder here in Michigan I can confirm that the defects like bark and knots are so much more common now. This is part in partial to the influx in lumber price and demands during the lockdowns, at that point and time it was harder to get lumber out to the stores or companies that provide lumber so the companies producing were sending anything and everything they had including these defects. I've seen it from the box stores and even the more privatized companies that we use to get our deck lumber.
there was no shortage of lumber, infact there were train sidinggs and train yards and distributor yards loaded with dozens of train consist of hundreds of cars nothing but wood. they drove up the price by letting it sit on the rail cars and not unloading it. it's all over the internet on youtube if you search. i saw it in several minneapolis rail yards had to be about 1,000 cars fully loaded. it's just like the osb and plywood 'shortage' of 2007
Same thing here in Wisconsin. It's hard to find a single piece of wood without bark on it.
I don't work in the lumber industry specifically, but I HAVE worked on many different production floors in my time and I'm willing to bet the old hands that did the job properly, probably either quit or moved on to other positions once the pandemic cleared everyone out, leaving the judgment calls on what is 'good enough' to ship out to the greenhorns that either weren't trained very well in the first place, or flat out don't care.
I've seen it happen more than a few times before, and especially after the pandemic.
I really liked your careful explanations, and your excellent advice!
Well done!
Hi Robert how are you doing today. Hope you are having a good weather 😊
I'm in central Texas, in the boonies. There are one and a half places here to get lumber. I'm no carpenter or craftsman. The only lumber I use is to make crude shop shelves and benches. Even so, about 80% of the stuff here in town is too cringy even for my utilitarian use.
Great videos! Thanks!
As always great style and lots of good information
Bob
England
Awesome job so far. Love the potential new plans, and looking forward to following along. I hate RUclips shorts, but really like your videos. I am all for the ICF construction. Bill
Hi Bill how are you doing today. Hope you are having a good weather 😊
YES! Im seeing lots more bark edged lumber and skuffed edges in the Northwest
Great video and I would like to see if you go to a lumber mill and what to look for as well!!! Enjoyed the content!
Terrific video Brad! There are excellent sources for purchasing wood online. However, you also have to pay shipping charges! You can avoid these charges if more than a certain amount of board feet is purchased. I recently purchased Maple & Walnut online and the wood that I received was fantastic! It often takes some searching but you can find very good sources online. 👍👍🔨🔨
Another way to save money is using S2S wood (surfaced two sides). For our house renovation, I was doing stained wood trim throughout, so I needed a whole lot of 1x4 and 1x6. The lumber yard had the S2S for less than half the price of anything at the big box stores.
great video! I would love a lumber yard version too 😎
Thanks for sharing those tips!
No problem!
I made my dining table out of lumber from regular lumber, most of my furnature I made. I used BC plywood for surfaces and clear poly and it looks fine to me- also very durable, can walk on it if you want. Nice shoes.
Great video. Of course through years of experience I have come to 75% the same conclusions. You filled that 25% gap, and I wish RUclips was around in the 90's, when I had to learn the hard way - picture books from the library.
Great video! I learned a lot! I would love to see a video on how to buy lumber at a lumber yard.
When I built stuff for my balcony i just went for the douglas fir decking floorboards, cheap as they come, good basic size to build other stuff from like raised plant beds or seating. I liked having a bit of a structure to the wood as well and the wood has been as tough as they come and I can get it as local wood instead of some expensive, devastating-to-nature, imported wood. Only meh thing about it is that if you don't treat it like at least once or twice a year UV will give it the ugliest gray patina instead of the lovely red to yellow hues.
This will be 1 million view video. That thumbnail is solid gold lol. Good job Brad.
😀 thanks, Matt
Whenever I go into HD I look for the cull wood 70% off and if it good enough to use on future projects that I can manipulate it for what ever job. Just recently I bought a few 16 footers in the cull bin . I was able to use the whole length by clamping it off to the 4x4 posts before attaching. Worked perfect for building a garden fence.
New fan here, and really enjoy your videos! I’m moving in a few months so many will come in handy.
I thought I knew a bunch but really found this video helpful! Thank you
Definitely interested in a video on buying wood from a building supply or lumberyard.
Pressure treated in the Northwest (at least) is made from Douglas fir and is tinted reddish-brown and has a pattern of incisions to get the chemicals deeper into the wood.
What a ton of information... thanks so much
*Great Helpful Video!!* 🌟👍🏻
Very useful. Thanks!
Great vid, thanks for all the info :)
Any coupon codes on the Timberland shoes at this time? Thanks for the tips on the wood selection. Any recommendations on the plywood grade for the wood storage cart? I take it that will get beat up over time.
YES to a lumber yard 101 video please... and soon, Summer is coming.
Hemlock is another outdoor moisture resistant wood that's around half the price of Cedar in my neck of the wood, so worth looking out for. Farmers use it a lot to make fences.
Very interesting. I did not know that.
hemlock makes crap deck boards it cracks in the sun, warps.
Great vid. Great tips. Thought I knew it all. Nope. Thx. Watching from Ontario Canada 🇨🇦 🎉
Great video for choosing lumber.
I would not use treated lumber for making outdoor furniture. The older preservatives contained chromium, copper and arsenic. The newer formulas are different, but are they safe to sit against you skin?
Good tips. In my area, Lowe's *generally* has better framing lumber and better hardwood boards than the Depot. But not always. Fortunately I have a "real" lumber store in my area for consistently better lumber and hardwoods, like 1x, 5/4, 8/4 and 12 - 16 foot lengths, but it is a hike to get there. If I need "perfect" 2x4s (oxymoron), I generally buy 2x6s and rip to size. They universally tend to be straighter, drier, with fewer knots and defects than 2x4s. For example, I did a curved wall for a walk-in shower in my master bath, tiled on one side and flex-rocked on the other, which had to be framed perfectly so I ripped straight 2x6s to size, for 8-in. on center 2x4 studs. For painted trim, I always use poplar.
The select 1x10 x8' pine at Home Depot is great for building vertical wood walls on top of regular drywall for modern houses / condos.
- no cutting on site
- no sanding on site
At least three rows of horizontal 1x3 x8' screwed to the wall (find the beams / condos often have aluminum instead of wood beams) to hold the wood wall.
This also offsets the vertical planks to go to the floor over the trim. If the trim is 1in thick.
I use a magnet to find the drywall screws to know where the beams are, and pre-drill to make sure I know what's behind (wood or aluminum).
I have Home Depot cut one of the ends so they are all the same length, use Samara #120 water based dark brown stain, no stink.
I also make channels to be able to pass wires easily behind the wall, for wall mounting a TV or for LED light strips at the top.
Now I can put shelving anywhere, or use steel piping shelving.
Vertical planks over horizontal will make your wall seem taller.
I have made a few things from simple Homedepot lumber that honestly look rustic but I live in a farm area so it works for me. I also have a local lumber yard and when I want the project to look better I buy from them even if its just 2x4's cause the quality and look is amazing from them and the price point is maybe 20% more.
The price, or the price point?
I’m not quite sure what the difference is…
@@DanielinLaTuna sorry not sure if that is just a phrase around here. I was trying to say if a 2x4 was 4$ at Home Depot it would be like $4.85 at my local lumberyard/shop. That little extra cost is worth it for me cause I know its a better board, and it is local business.
Thanks for the advice. I'm a beginner, more of a sawdust generator than a woodworker, so every tip is useful. So I, for one, would appreciate some tips on buying from a lumberyard. Home Depot is easy, like a supermarket. At the lumberyard I'd actually have to talk to people and explain what I want. I don't even know where to start.
Nothing wrong with pressure treated Southern Yellow Pine for outdoor use. I used it for a large chicken run 10 years ago and it was still good after 5 years when I dismantled the coop.
I still have it for my open air outdoor garden equipment shed.
Casting my vote for a video at the lumber yard, would love to see more tips!
Don't know if it helps anyone but the stores around me have the southern yellow pine (SYP) separate from the rest of the SPF lumber at the back of the stores. Good advice about the different line species. Also m SYP being harder than other pine makes it a better wood for workbenches.
Hi, new here. If i am trying to make shelves for the garage. Any suggestions on the wood type? Would Southern yellow pine work?
Definitely getting a lot of that bark on the edges of the 2x4s in CA. If they're nice and straight and flat, I'll use them for places where it doesn't matter
One reason for more bark edges is computer designed log scans at the mill. They maximize usable wood. Some mills get several sizes of dimensional lumber from a single tree.
Please do talk about buying wood at a lumber yard! I've never used anything but plywood and 2x4s and I'm always intimidated by the different format of shopping
Yes... Lumber yard wood as well. Please and thank you. I usually buy from the BBS and really have to spend a great deal of time sorting out the culls. I think the lumber yard will be a bit more expensive, but clearer and so many more choices especially for hardwoods. Great advice for the BBS by the way.
Ditto
Sawmiller here. Regarding moisture content I think it's worth saying that the driest wood is not always the best, and picking that piece that's at 8% might be a mistake.
Wood doesn't just dry and then stop. Over time it reaches equilibrium with the air humidity around it. The relative air humidity in different environments is very variable. I know for example that the rocking chair in my kitchen is at 9% but the shelves in my workshop are over 13%. If I make something with a board at 8% and then keep it in the workshop, it'll actually absorb water from the air over time to reach equilibrium at 13%, and warping will occur.
Tldr: pick the board that is at the closest moisture content to where it'll end up, not just the driest.
i worked in a sawmill in Australia for awhile and in regards to your species part, you can get the exact same species from the same plot of land with same growth cycle u can get pieces that different colours not sure why though but occasionally you see a piece that is randomly much lighter or darker than the other pieces but it still the exact same species.
in regard to the go big section aswell atleast in Australia ur larger boards come from the same tree as ur 2x4s you just get alot more 2x4s from same tree since any larger boarders that dont meet sound test gets sent back which then gets split to smaller boards through a giant twin bandsaw machine where they either chop them in half or smaller boards to remove the wane (bark section) Pine tree here tend to be around the 27 year mark at the youngest and 32 year at the older mark, you do get more larger boards from section at the base of the tree though so less branches generaly to make knots from
please do a lumber yard video. love your channel and want to learn more.
Definitely seeing the bark more now
I have started getting my hardwood from small saw mills in the area. I live in a rural area so it is either that, the Big Box Store or driving several hours to a real city. It is mostly live edge, flat sawn wood but the selection is good. How about a visit to a saw mill? What to look for, how to estimate how much wood you will get from a piece and that whole board feet thing.
oh, that sounds like an interesting idea. I have a few around but they are out in the sticks, so for location it's a bit of the opposite for me
What I do when I go to Lowes or Homedepot, walk past the lumber yard and I go to the hardwood section. I bring my moisture meter and I test pieces. First I pull all the wood out and go to the very very back where things are dusty. Usually I'll get wood that's in the 8-11% moisture content range. The only reason I go is when I am building a frame underneath a table and I don't want to use a bunch more BF of walnut for a part you can't see anyway. I'll go with some oak or something like that.
Wonderful information! Great side humor too 😂
In my part of the World, the surviving timber yards also do their 'shopping around' and you find the price of common pine is only cents per foot (metre) less than the 'premium' clear pine from the Big Store, so you only buy from the timber yard when you need timber longer than 8ft (2.4m). They are basically surviving on the building/contractor trade who need longer timber.
I'm buying some pressure treated wood to build some frames to attach some window well covers. The wood would be glued down to concrete. Do you think I need to recoat with something like Thompson's Water Seal, or will it do fine??? Thoughts???
Great stuff! I would live to see a video about your lumber yard tip and tricks.
Lumber yards always have better quality of wood, that's their business. Depending on how much you get, give them your list of everything including nails, screws, etc. and ask them for a quote and you'll save some money.👍
Hey man. Maybe u could do a video about how to use a moisture metre in the correct way.. I'm not very tech savvy so this would be a great help..
There’s also several different grades in construction lumber, so if you’re checking in a pile of « stud grade » wood you might be there for a long time before building your pretty bench 😅
I've been building a custom catwalk (literally) system for a client who wants their cat to have easy access to the living room from halfway down the stairs, without the dog annoying her. The box frames I built for fastening to the wall (sort of like rectangular portals) (the catwalk will be mounted under these, eliminating brackets under the catwalks!) is made out of 1x6 planks that I ripped in half and cut into less than 12" sections. So I just needed them to be fairly straight. Being bowed wasn't too much of a concern as long as it wasn't a boomerang. Added a simple chamfer to the edges. They turned out fantastic. Installing the whole thing tomorrow!
Client was blown away. Fortunately it wasn't literally..
Lol I will first say great video. Secondly I couldn't help but chuckle when you were talking about using two different types of wood while my brain was analyzing the different colors in cabinets in the back and me trying to figure out if it was just the lighting or if you just got a good deal on something 😉
Great advice. Thanks 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Southern CT here. In 2008 I built a free floating deck and stairs using Home Depot pressure treated lumber. Over the years I have had to repair or replace about 35% of the boards due to rot. The wood affected wasn't in contact with the ground. The deck is located on my hillside about 60' above my home. It gets sun for at least half of the day, and mold hasn't been an issue. I stained it after letting it dry for a year, then cleaned and maintained continuously every year since, and still I get rot. It has been re-stained at least 3 times over the past 15 years, and this season I've switched to Deckover with the non-slip ingredient. Did I get a bad batch of “pressure treated” lumber? I don't expect it to last forever, but it seems like it shouldn't be rotting, especially since it's not touching the soil.
Great video ..ty
Brad I would love the lumber yard tutorial. Get on it!
great info
Lumber from HD is what it is. It is mass produced/rapidly dried and done so to get it onto the shelves as rapidly as possible. Try as we might to cull the worst, it is just the nature of the beast when it comes to how the wood is purchased in such large quantities. Remember folks, this is mainly construction lumber, and while you can use it for woodworking projects, it is not its main intended purpose.
Not trying to talk anyone out of buying from HD, my success sharing check each quarter thanks you for doing so. This is a great video on how to get the most out of what it you will find there.
I luv how you present yer help infos (:D)...fun and direct to the point...and the "internal" insights are very helpful! TNX for the vids and keep em going please!!! (:D).
We are building a house and never seen so much bad wood before. We asked one place and they said it was because of the supply/demand. It's not getting enough time to dry from the time it is cut to the time it is sold. Your lucky to find enough good wood these days!
interesting that you suggested the shoes, I notice my toes are bruised after a project, although I didn't notice it at the time