Hey ... as the inventor of Tapcons (and the associated Condrive Installation tools) I think you did a really excellent job of describing these products and their installation. Cudos!! Best, Rich Ernst
Hey Richard...I am trying to drill into my garage floor, but the drill bit is rather crappy...I think a lot of dust fell into the hole making it impossible to drive the 1/4" screws 2.5 inches deep. I am securing some 2x4's to the garage floor as gym mat perimeter and use the 4 inch Tapcons. The bit I used was worn out after a few holes because I think there is rebar in the concrete slab for reinforcement. I will get a good quality long concrete/rebar bit tomorrow ...should it be 3/16"? Or 1/4"? Why do the Tapcons get stuck? Did I not drill it deep enough? The bit I had was not very long, perhaps I should go 1 inch deeper just to be safe. And then using the power driver I ended up snapping 2 Tapcons in the holes :( Do you think that using a long high qualily drill bit 3/16" I can solve that issue?
I had similar issues drilling into the co concrete floor of the shed, to the point that the head of the topcon screw brook off, now am in a bind because that was an exact location for the holes, I will have to change other part of the project to adjust.
Removing the dust is definitely needed but when away from power and no vacuum available I have used canned air. Use the small tube pushed into the depth of the hole and then blow air into the hole as I pull the tube out. It clears the dust perfectly. I do this on all holes drilled in concrete, horizontal or vertical, as they do not clear well. I also cover the hole with my hand about an inch away to try to keep the dust from blowing back into my face. Even then, be sure to turn away, even with eye protection, as it will blow the dust back at you.
You gave and thorough and no nonsense explanation of how to use these particular products, all the confidence that I needed. Thank you and keep up the good work.
I used these today (3/16" x 1.1/4") first time, on BRICK for a down spout. You wouldn't believe what these replaced, but you know how it goes. I don't have a hammer drill as recommended, I used a regular Makita, which is a good drill. Here's what I found. One, don't screw around drilling, straight in under pressure, course you have to release some debris in-between, VERY carefully. Two, to do it over again I'd TRY a 1/8" drill instead of the recommended 5/32". I'm fairly handy around tools. I'll admit to drilling masonry only a few times past, no issues. Only three of four of these screws took, and yes I did vacuum them out. As for the three stripped holes, I put a stick of wood inside them, and everything snug right up. I'd use them again for the same application, though just as well with a wood screw. As for something heavy however, I'd stick to the hammer drill for starts, or use a different anchor.
Thank you ....I've gotten put up my security cameras on the outside of my house in the brick and you made this very simple. Didn't think about clearing out the dust.
I surfed several vids to prep for hanging my water heater on a cinder block wall tomorrow. This one was the best by far! Well organized, succinct explanations, clear video, helpful examples.
I agree with you 100% I am doing the same as you. My strap broke off the top of the wall and my huge expansion tank fell and bent my pex pipe, causing the water pressure to decrease. I temporarily fixed it with an old belt lol. Now I am just going to get a bracket on amazon and install upright on back of my basement wall. This video made me very confident that I can do this. Thank you for the very informative and easy to understand procedure. I will worry about rerouting the pex to the tank later after I get the tank secured.
Thanks for the excellent tips on correctly sizing and installing Tapcon fasteners. I only 2 comments. The wood block will last longer if it's treated wood, and if untreated, I suggest priming and painting all the sides and the end grain on the wooden block; using an oil based primer will make it last even longer and the finish coat will stick better. I couldn't tell if your Tapcon driver-socket was impact-grade, but having split the sides of several regular, thin-wall chrome sockets (i.e. Craftsman) using them with an impact driver, I splurged at Harbor Freight and bought a set of true impact sockets that work quite well on these projects and on automotive repairs.
Yep. That wood was PT... just used so I can demo the tapcon. Not used in any application. The drivers I use are all Dewalt impacts. Good observations and tips! Thanks for sharing. 👍
Great Video. Emphasis on the concrete dust is important, since it’s hard to get out of your eyes after the fact, and the dust is probably carcinogenic (30 years from now). A bulb syringe is available at most DYI stores to actually suck the dirt out of the hole. Fast and simple.
I drive quite a few tapcons in my business. For stucco walls, not hitting a stud. If at all possible, when attaching wood materials to concrete/stucco walls pre drill wood, then on the back side of the wood, countersink the hole, helps suck the wood in tighter. I do use a vac on floor holes. The reason why I do not vacuum out vertical holes is that I like to use a bit of adhesive on the tapcon, and the adhesive will mix with the dust. Added strength in that hole, especially stucco...
Great idea to say where the action starts. I watch the whole vid as I never know where I'll learn something new. Even a little more knowledge is useful. So thank you from a crazy construction Serb.
Very instructive video. Thank you. Here's a hint, I used canned air with the tube to clear the drilled hole and also measure its depth. I was outside going into hard red brick with 2 fasteners. Vacuumed to catch the dust. A nice, clean install. Thanks again!
Good video. You are showing details like socket etc. Now I know what each piece does. The fact matter is you zoomed in. That is good. You taught me a lot. Thanks.
Perfect. Seen another video showing special drill bit and sockets bla bla bla. You made it short and sweet. Secret is don't try and over tighten and strip out of block.
How can a bare wood screw or concrete screw hold for a long time into a hard wall of brick, stone or concrete? We always use banana plastic plugs before the screw. Some people use wood, or pieces of wood if they don’t have a banana plug. 1. We drill the hole as you demonstrated 2. We put in the right size of the banana plug into the hole. 3. Than we put in the right size of screw by using a drill a screw driver. When you drive in the screw in the hole where already the banana plug was there, the banana plug expands and grips tight the hole.
Yep. You’re 💯 on that if the tapcon’s diameter is less than 1/4” the thicker ones like I demonstrate in the video can get real nice and tight and hold forever because the shank diameter is thick enough to create a gyroscopic momentum when the fibers break free on setting them creating their own sleeve. The smaller tapcons almost always require your sleeve to set and hold permanently.
I want to fasten a flag holder to a brick veneer wall. With the bracket, I have to drill through the brick and mortar both. Which will be stronger? The old flag holder eventually came loose from the wall and it had lead anchors.. You did a great job on this video.
buddy used four inch tapcons to secure the form onto the wall. think was patching an unused window. sold me there. now they are part of my repetoire, the easiest thing for mounting on concrete as long as your set up properly. i just use an old dewalt drill box. couple of each kind of bits, stick with one kind of tapcon. write the bits and sizes on the front of the plastic box. who really uses the dewalt hard cases for their drills anyways?
Wow! You ARE right when you say a "hammer driver". I tried for days and every hole was stripped; when I used a NON hammer Drive. Yet I have one. But too lazy to go and get it. But finally, I started using the hammer driver. And it worked perfect. But what I can't understand: is why the drill tapcon is the exact size (diameter), as the screws. So it seems that it would strip out the hole also. But it doesn't. i can NOT see how it works...A drill and a screw the same size in diameter. Crazy! But it does work. Oh well
I’ll be attaching pressure treated 2x4s to the basement slab as a floor plate. Is one size Tapcon preferred over the other? I am considering putting sill foam under the 2x4s in case of water seepage. What are your thoughts?
Excellent tutorial! Just what I was looking for... I recently acquired a house in Puerto Rico, it's all concrete. I needed to find the proper method to fasten items onto the wall and this video provided great insight 👍🏼.
Followed you tips to a T drilling into red brick. Made sure depth was correct and drill size was correct. One stripped, two broke so idk what the hell went wrong
Is tapcon overkill if I'm putting only signs on a brick wall? Would inserts be better in that case? I appreciate the information on drilling as I don't do this often.
After stripping out a bunch of holes with these, then snapping a bunch of them off I figured out I need to not hammer the sh*t out of these. Tapcons only need to be tight not super tight. Tapcons are vary stiff steel and they don't take being hammered on. By that I mean after they are down you continue to allow the drill to hammer them in like driving a screw into wood where you let the drill keep hitting until the head sinks in. I wish I would have watched this video a long time ago but I eventually figure it out on my own.
It was great the way show how to do it ,i have a brick house and would no what should say I need to put 4×4 attach it my house so I can put a gate up for my fence what can I use
So that shows Tapcon affixing a board to cinder block. Will Tapcon also work for affixing a board to a concrete foundation, or should I be using a different type of anchor?
Great Video... but in the comments you've mentioned multiple times that to help fix a spinning/stripped tapcon to just "add an insert". But to me (and the others also) that's still really vague? What is an insert? Is that something you buy, is that a normal drywall anchor? Is that a piece of wire (with or without the wire insulation)? This would be super helpful to share in another video :-)
Thank YOU for being "safety Sally " I see a lot of videos with NO safety glasses, yeah, I know, I'm one of those right ? After my SECOND trip to emergency because of ( actually it was ONLY rust) I kinda learned. Btw, the doctor told me the rust shards were kinda like a barb. Who knew ?
First time project for me. Hanging a 53 lb Flatscreen and bracket [16 lb itself] on my patio, stucco over block. I'm thinking its gotta be the large tap cons...how long a screw would YOU use? Great video. Thanks a lot.
I'm mounting speaker brackets on a block wall that has pegboard over it. Not sure if it is suitable to just drill into the pegboard and mount the brackets. I realize I should compensate for the pegboard thickness. Perhaps I'm over thinking this. What say you ? Thanks much.
Wearing a ball cap, in addition to glasses, also helps a lot with keeping crap out of your eyes. If doing much hearing protection not only saves hearing but keeps the crap out of your ears.
@@tiredowalkin forward, even good safety glasses are prone to stuff coming in above them. I once had a job that required goggles or safety glasses & a ball cap. Because the combination is quite effective.
@@MississippiJarhead I see, the bill has a lot of protection from debris falling. I don't usually wear a cap because it gets in the way or comes off when I get in close quarters. Thank you.
@@MississippiJarhead thanks, will check into those. UPDATE: So far I have drilled 1/4" holes and installed 32 Tapcons 5/16"x3", into 5 year old concrete. I bought a new hammer drill and Bosch bits at Menards. I'm installing an aluminum porch rail system. Some drilling was really tough as if it hit a hard rock or something really tough. I have 8 more holes to go but waiting on special order taller post for the stair rail.
Thank you for this video. Wish I had seen it before I started my job. I’m hanging a Rubbermaid closet system similar to the Rubbermaid system you hung in your garage. The wall is drywall with air gap then the exterior concrete wall. I can’t find studs or even plywood between wall and drywall. Do you have a video where you installed something heavy on drywall with concrete being that I can watch?
Follow my lead just as I did with the tapcon on the bare wall. Just get a 2-1/2” or 3” tapcon to get thru the drywall and into the masonry wall. Same install process
You use a drill with a Hammer mode option to drill the hole, then you use an impact gun to set the screw in. These drills/guns are not cheap. I'm just looking to set my gate spring to the block wall, 2 screws. Are these drills really necessary or can it be done with a regular corded power drill?
I’ve been using an impact driver and it keeps breaking the tapcon screws. Yes I have a hammer drill that I use to drill the hole and vacuum it out afterwards but the impact drill shears the screws. 🤷🏾♂️
Is this the same process if you have drywall, then an inch or so of space and then concrete? It is a wall adjacent to another unit in my building, and this three-level system is how it is designed.
Hey ... as the inventor of Tapcons (and the associated Condrive Installation tools) I think you did a really excellent job of describing these products and their installation. Cudos!! Best, Rich Ernst
Richard do you have any other tips on drilling into concrete. It's the most tedious thing I've ever done.
really? I thought you're not supposed to vacuum, as the dust helps the anchor's hold in the concrete block.
Incorrect
Hey Richard...I am trying to drill into my garage floor, but the drill bit is rather crappy...I think a lot of dust fell into the hole making it impossible to drive the 1/4" screws 2.5 inches deep. I am securing some 2x4's to the garage floor as gym mat perimeter and use the 4 inch Tapcons. The bit I used was worn out after a few holes because I think there is rebar in the concrete slab for reinforcement. I will get a good quality long concrete/rebar bit tomorrow ...should it be 3/16"? Or 1/4"? Why do the Tapcons get stuck? Did I not drill it deep enough? The bit I had was not very long, perhaps I should go 1 inch deeper just to be safe. And then using the power driver I ended up snapping 2 Tapcons in the holes :( Do you think that using a long high qualily drill bit 3/16" I can solve that issue?
I had similar issues drilling into the co concrete floor of the shed, to the point that the head of the topcon screw brook off, now am in a bind because that was an exact location for the holes, I will have to change other part of the project to adjust.
Removing the dust is definitely needed but when away from power and no vacuum available I have used canned air. Use the small tube pushed into the depth of the hole and then blow air into the hole as I pull the tube out. It clears the dust perfectly. I do this on all holes drilled in concrete, horizontal or vertical, as they do not clear well. I also cover the hole with my hand about an inch away to try to keep the dust from blowing back into my face. Even then, be sure to turn away, even with eye protection, as it will blow the dust back at you.
You gave and thorough and no nonsense explanation of how to use these particular products, all the confidence that I needed. Thank you and keep up the good work.
FYI if you have a lose tapcon add a peice of copper wire to the hole 12 awg and then drive it back in... no more re-drilling holes.
Instablaster...
or plastic
Epoxy works wonders on making tapcons not come out
I've watched several videos on this topic.Yours is the best by far. Clear, well organized and great demonstration.
I used these today (3/16" x 1.1/4") first time, on BRICK for a down spout. You wouldn't believe what these replaced, but you know how it goes. I don't have a hammer drill as recommended, I used a regular Makita, which is a good drill. Here's what I found. One, don't screw around drilling, straight in under pressure, course you have to release some debris in-between, VERY carefully. Two, to do it over again I'd TRY a 1/8" drill instead of the recommended 5/32". I'm fairly handy around tools. I'll admit to drilling masonry only a few times past, no issues. Only three of four of these screws took, and yes I did vacuum them out. As for the three stripped holes, I put a stick of wood inside them, and everything snug right up. I'd use them again for the same application, though just as well with a wood screw. As for something heavy however, I'd stick to the hammer drill for starts, or use a different anchor.
I’m guessing someone used drywall screws to attach those down spouts😄 seeing is believing
Thank you ....I've gotten put up my security cameras on the outside of my house in the brick and you made this very simple. Didn't think about clearing out the dust.
I surfed several vids to prep for hanging my water heater on a cinder block wall tomorrow. This one was the best by far! Well organized, succinct explanations, clear video, helpful examples.
I agree with you 100% I am doing the same as you. My strap broke off the top of the wall and my huge expansion tank fell and bent my pex pipe, causing the water pressure to decrease. I temporarily fixed it with an old belt lol. Now I am just going to get a bracket on amazon and install upright on back of my basement wall. This video made me very confident that I can do this. Thank you for the very informative and easy to understand procedure. I will worry about rerouting the pex to the tank later after I get the tank secured.
I’m glad it’s helping some folks. Thanks for the kind words! You got this!
Thanks for the excellent tips on correctly sizing and installing Tapcon fasteners. I only 2 comments. The wood block will last longer if it's treated wood, and if untreated, I suggest priming and painting all the sides and the end grain on the wooden block; using an oil based primer will make it last even longer and the finish coat will stick better. I couldn't tell if your Tapcon driver-socket was impact-grade, but having split the sides of several regular, thin-wall chrome sockets (i.e. Craftsman) using them with an impact driver, I splurged at Harbor Freight and bought a set of true impact sockets that work quite well on these projects and on automotive repairs.
Yep. That wood was PT... just used so I can demo the tapcon. Not used in any application. The drivers I use are all Dewalt impacts. Good observations and tips! Thanks for sharing. 👍
Haha! "Splurged" at the cheapest hardware store
Great Video. Emphasis on the concrete dust is important, since it’s hard to get out of your eyes after the fact, and the dust is probably carcinogenic (30 years from now).
A bulb syringe is available at most DYI stores to actually suck the dirt out of the hole. Fast and simple.
It's the "new asbestos."
I drive quite a few tapcons in my business. For stucco walls, not hitting a stud. If at all possible, when attaching wood materials to concrete/stucco walls pre drill wood, then on the back side of the wood, countersink the hole, helps suck the wood in tighter. I do use a vac on floor holes. The reason why I do not vacuum out vertical holes is that I like to use a bit of adhesive on the tapcon, and the adhesive will mix with the dust. Added strength in that hole, especially stucco...
Awesome I have a concrete block /stucco home and I've always had poor success with tapcons. I kind of see what I've been doing wrong, thanks.
Great idea to say where the action starts. I watch the whole vid as I never know where I'll learn something new. Even a little more knowledge is useful. So thank you from a crazy construction Serb.
Thank you so much for all the details. I am a DIYer and I want to put some hooks into my concrete wall in my garage. Thanks again.
Very instructive video. Thank you. Here's a hint, I used canned air with the tube to clear the drilled hole and also measure its depth. I was outside going into hard red brick with 2 fasteners. Vacuumed to catch the dust. A nice, clean install. Thanks again!
This is way way way better video than the others
Excellent video, thank you. I learned a lot but I didn’t know before, this will help me appreciate you being very thorough from start to finish.
By far the best Tapcon explanation/instruction video I've come across. Great job!
Great explanation. It was easy to understand and helpful to someone who has never done this before!
Thanks for a thorough and complete description of the product, tools and installation of the tapcon fastener system
Good video. You are showing details like socket etc. Now I know what each piece does. The fact matter is you zoomed in. That is good. You taught me a lot. Thanks.
Good job on the video, getting ready to install about 110 camera's, and I needed a refresher course.
I should have watched your video before before my project. Good job and thank you.
Perfect. Seen another video showing special drill bit and sockets bla bla bla. You made it short and sweet. Secret is don't try and over tighten and strip out of block.
Great video! And be careful when using an impact driver! Because they can strip the Tapcon in the hole! If you over do it!
What kind of camera do you run and do you run with special lighting? Oh and what kind of vacuum do you run with?
Thank you. Great video, very informative. Finally have our gazebo up..what a nightmare. Going to use the tapcons today.😊
How can a bare wood screw or concrete screw hold for a long time into a hard wall of brick, stone or concrete?
We always use banana plastic plugs before the screw. Some people use wood, or pieces of wood if they don’t have a banana plug.
1. We drill the hole as you demonstrated
2. We put in the right size of the banana plug into the hole.
3. Than we put in the right size of screw by using a drill a screw driver.
When you drive in the screw in the hole where already the banana plug was there, the banana plug expands and grips tight the hole.
Yep. You’re 💯 on that if the tapcon’s diameter is less than 1/4” the thicker ones like I demonstrate in the video can get real nice and tight and hold forever because the shank diameter is thick enough to create a gyroscopic momentum when the fibers break free on setting them creating their own sleeve. The smaller tapcons almost always require your sleeve to set and hold permanently.
always wanted to see someone use a sds bit in a hammer drill. doesn't seem too bad.
Your video is very helpful and well done. Thank you so much!
By far one of the best down to the point tutorial videos. Keep up the good work, best wishes.
Thanks for taking the time on this clear and concise vid. Learned a lot.
Really good presentation. Useful info for my first framing project.
The cheat sheet was very helpful! Excellent video
Excellent tutorial, specific well thought out! Thanks!
I want to fasten a flag holder to a brick veneer wall. With the bracket, I have to drill through the brick and mortar both. Which will be stronger?
The old flag holder eventually came loose from the wall and it had lead anchors.. You did a great job on this video.
buddy used four inch tapcons to secure the form onto the wall. think was patching an unused window. sold me there. now they are part of my repetoire, the easiest thing for mounting on concrete as long as your set up properly. i just use an old dewalt drill box. couple of each kind of bits, stick with one kind of tapcon. write the bits and sizes on the front of the plastic box. who really uses the dewalt hard cases for their drills anyways?
Great video 📹 👍 👏 and thanks for the 411!! Videos like these has been my go-to and life saver!
Thank you
I now understand what happened to me
I didn't vacuum out the the hole
Great video
Great video keep it going. For me, my makita hammer setting over time tears up the masonry screws. The corded hammer drill doesn't .
A SDS-Plus or SDS-Max rotary hammer drill is by far preferable to a standard drill that has an additional hammer function.
Do I have to drill all thdxway through the cinder block, cuz my tapcon screw just keeps spinning. I'm trying to set a 1/4" x 3 3/4" tapcon
Good video well done you might mention when driving in your tap cons you want to use an impact rated driver
Thanks for this.
Exactly what I have been looking for.
All the best.
Great video. I need to fasten a hose reel on a cinder block wall. They are not hollow blocks and not wide blocks.
Wow! You ARE right when you say a "hammer driver". I tried for days and every hole was stripped; when I used a NON hammer Drive. Yet I have one. But too lazy to go and get it.
But finally, I started using the hammer driver. And it worked perfect. But what I can't understand: is why the drill tapcon is the exact size (diameter), as the screws. So it seems that it would strip out the hole also. But it doesn't. i can NOT see how it works...A drill and a screw the same size in diameter. Crazy!
But it does work. Oh well
I’ll be attaching pressure treated 2x4s to the basement slab as a floor plate. Is one size Tapcon preferred over the other? I am considering putting sill foam under the 2x4s in case of water seepage. What are your thoughts?
Add the vapor barrier of choice. Use a 3” long 1/4” DIA. tapcon with a washer at the head. Sink it until the washer recessed into the plate.
thank you for your knowledge and well thought out explanation
Great job !! Right to the point !!
Keep up the great video’s 👍🏼
I am trying to drill in 70 yr old poured concrete walls..not so easy! Sure could use a good vid on that
Excellent tutorial! Just what I was looking for... I recently acquired a house in Puerto Rico, it's all concrete. I needed to find the proper method to fasten items onto the wall and this video provided great insight 👍🏼.
Very well explained, Great tutorial . Thank you. Well done.
Followed you tips to a T drilling into red brick. Made sure depth was correct and drill size was correct. One stripped, two broke so idk what the hell went wrong
Nature of tapcons my friend. Sometimes you have a good day. Sometimes bad. Up your diameters in that substrate if they’re snapping.
Is tapcon overkill if I'm putting only signs on a brick wall? Would inserts be better in that case? I appreciate the information on drilling as I don't do this often.
Where can I buy that safety glass?
After stripping out a bunch of holes with these, then snapping a bunch of them off I figured out I need to not hammer the sh*t out of these. Tapcons only need to be tight not super tight.
Tapcons are vary stiff steel and they don't take being hammered on. By that I mean after they are down you continue to allow the drill to hammer them in like driving a screw into wood where you let the drill keep hitting until the head sinks in.
I wish I would have watched this video a long time ago but I eventually figure it out on my own.
Wait, wood dulls masonry bits?
It was great the way show how to do it ,i have a brick house and would no what should say I need to put 4×4 attach it my house so I can put a gate up for my fence what can I use
Help me please
That's a great video, safety glasses are definitely a must i learned that by being bullheaded
Great information. Trick of the trade , thank you 😊
Not clear on impact driver vs hammer drill/driver. Do you need both and how are they different. Excellent video.
I said it in the video. Use the hammer drill to bore the hole. Use the impact driver to drive the tapcon into the substrate
@@Archifx Thanks. The Honest Carpenter has a video that explains impact driver's function.
Needed this video 3 yrs ago
Could someone tell me how to fasten screws to stucco - wood that makes up the front area of my home?
So that shows Tapcon affixing a board to cinder block. Will Tapcon also work for affixing a board to a concrete foundation, or should I be using a different type of anchor?
Great Video... but in the comments you've mentioned multiple times that to help fix a spinning/stripped tapcon to just "add an insert". But to me (and the others also) that's still really vague? What is an insert? Is that something you buy, is that a normal drywall anchor? Is that a piece of wire (with or without the wire insulation)?
This would be super helpful to share in another video :-)
Insert can be wood, metal or plastic. Think of the mollies we used before TapCons came out.
Excellent video thank you. Subscribed!
Wow ,, thks a bunch ,, best advice I’ve seen thus far ..
Great video and insights to tapcon use
can these hold a 4x4 post in concrete?
Thank you best video out of all I watched...thank you thank you thank you....
Thanks ! I only have a DeWalt with a clutch. Any suggestions ? Bob
Thats why mine kept breaking!!! Because of not cleaning out the stupid hole lol thanks!!!!
Thank YOU for being "safety Sally " I see a lot of videos with NO safety glasses, yeah, I know, I'm one of those right ? After my SECOND trip to emergency because of ( actually it was ONLY rust)
I kinda learned. Btw, the doctor told me the rust shards were kinda like a barb. Who knew ?
Is Tap Con a brand? I think we call those SD screws over here.
Yeah but are they as good as the split bolt anchors? I like that you can remove them.
First time project for me. Hanging a 53 lb Flatscreen and bracket [16 lb itself] on my patio, stucco over block. I'm thinking its gotta be the large tap cons...how long a screw would YOU use? Great video. Thanks a lot.
2.5 or 3” for sure.
@@Archifx Thanks. 2.5 and hex heads so I can drive them with my sockets, not strip them with a screwdriver!
Exactly
Thanks for the hole cleaning tip.
Is the hammer drill the same as an impact drill?
Can these be used to secure a sill for a wood wall that sits on concrete? A wood 2x4 sill sitting on concrete.
Thank you so much plain and simple
I'm mounting speaker brackets on a block wall that has pegboard over it. Not sure if it is suitable to just drill into the pegboard and mount the brackets. I realize I should compensate for the pegboard thickness. Perhaps I'm over thinking this. What say you ? Thanks much.
Dude, fantastic tutorial.
Great video! Thanks for the guidance! 👊😎
Wearing a ball cap, in addition to glasses, also helps a lot with keeping crap out of your eyes. If doing much hearing protection not only saves hearing but keeps the crap out of your ears.
Should the ball cap be on forwards or backwards?
@@tiredowalkin forward, even good safety glasses are prone to stuff coming in above them. I once had a job that required goggles or safety glasses & a ball cap. Because the combination is quite effective.
@@MississippiJarhead I see, the bill has a lot of protection from debris falling. I don't usually wear a cap because it gets in the way or comes off when I get in close quarters. Thank you.
@@tiredowalkin good modern goggles are much better than the ones I was stuck with 20+ years ago. I have some from DeWalt that I really like.
@@MississippiJarhead thanks, will check into those. UPDATE: So far I have drilled 1/4" holes and installed 32 Tapcons 5/16"x3", into 5 year old concrete. I bought a new hammer drill and Bosch bits at Menards. I'm installing an aluminum porch rail system. Some drilling was really tough as if it hit a hard rock or something really tough. I have 8 more holes to go but waiting on special order taller post for the stair rail.
Thank you for this video. Wish I had seen it before I started my job. I’m hanging a Rubbermaid closet system similar to the Rubbermaid system you hung in your garage. The wall is drywall with air gap then the exterior concrete wall. I can’t find studs or even plywood between wall and drywall. Do you have a video where you installed something heavy on drywall with concrete being that I can watch?
Follow my lead just as I did with the tapcon on the bare wall. Just get a 2-1/2” or 3” tapcon to get thru the drywall and into the masonry wall. Same install process
@@Archifx Thank you!
Thanks for the tips.
Well made video. Thank you 🙏🏼
Awesome and useful video!
FYI - you can drill wood ALL DAY LONG with a masonry bit and it will do no harm to the bit at all.... but it may take you all day to drill a hole 😆
Excellent video. Well done
Did you use the same size wood bit for pre drilling into the wood?
Well presented, thank you and God Bless.
You use a drill with a Hammer mode option to drill the hole, then you use an impact gun to set the screw in. These drills/guns are not cheap. I'm just looking to set my gate spring to the block wall, 2 screws. Are these drills really necessary or can it be done with a regular corded power drill?
Yes it can. Just take your time and don’t open up the hole any larger than the bit size and you’ll be fine.
@@Archifx Thank You and appreciate the prompt reply👍
@@timking4277 It worked perfectly. Thank you for your help!!
Have you had the tapcon shear with a impact?
Not yet but now it’ll happen next one I run. Hahah
I’ve been using an impact driver and it keeps breaking the tapcon screws. Yes I have a hammer drill that I use to drill the hole and vacuum it out afterwards but the impact drill shears the screws. 🤷🏾♂️
Great video man
Great content as always
Extremely informative thank you
Very helpful thanks 🙏
Is this the same process if you have drywall, then an inch or so of space and then concrete? It is a wall adjacent to another unit in my building, and this three-level system is how it is designed.
Same process. You can get away with using the smaller bit as well
@@Archifx Awesome, thanks so much for the reply!
Great tutorial. Thanks.