Your video was fantastic. My project turned out perfectly thanks to your video. I knew absolutely nothing about using concrete bolts before your video. Thank you very much.
Used these for years to amount my hurricane shutters during the season. Never had any problem reusing the holes for over 25 years. Finally had custom shutters made and ditched the plywood
If you get lucky, the screws may thread right back into the original threads, as you experienced. Otherwise, the holes may strip and the screw will spin endlessly. In your case, you could have always just drilled another hole if that happened.
When attaching a ledger board to a concrete block wall, should the Tapcon be screwed into the empty cell, or into the solid walls or web of the block ?
The only reason to aim for a void would be to use some kind of toggle bolt. I've seen giant toggle bolts but not sure I'd trust them with a deck ledger. I aim for solid concrete with long concrete bolts but I also use wedge anchors for ledgers.
Fantastic video. Thank you. I'm interested in the blue dust blower that you used to clean out the powder from the hole. The dust blower appears at about 13:42 into the presentation. Can you please provide a link to where it can be purchased?
That is a plastic transfer pipette dropper actually but I've had better results from using a small plastic squeeze bottle held right up to the hole to blow the dust out. Either can be bought cheaply online (search "plastic transfer pipette" somewhere like Amazon) but the plastic bottle is probably more readily available in local stores also and you don't have to buy it in bulk
I actually prefer using the impact driver with Tapcons, especially on a very snug fit. The impact actually creates less stress on the screw and the micro-chipping action helps in cutting threads into the brick. Only for final torque do I use hand tools.
I agree it can make it quicker to use impact for the first 98% or so of the way. I just wouldn't use any power driver at the end. Even by hand you have to be sure not to over-tighten.
Were you using a standard drill to insert the hex screws into the block wall? You mentioned that you don’t like to use a power drill for screws but it looks like you were. I’m trying to secure some wood shelving into block walls and it sounds like I need: 1. Hammer drill with concrete drill to drill hole 2. Either a ratchet driver/socket wrench (or power drill?) to insert screw into block wall
I use a power driver until the last 2 or so %. As long as you are driving straight, it should be fine. The main issue is the very last part where it tightens but has no give so if you over-tighten you will strip the hole. You can use a ratchet wrench or even a screw driver the whole time, it just takes a while.
I need to screw a nylon strap to a brick wall so that they can hold up some trees during winter. With these work for that? Or is there something better? Thanks!
I am starting to hate 1/4" and 3/16" tapcons. For the life of me I can't get tapcons to set in cinder blocks consistently. I use an sds rotary hammer drill, tapcon drill bits sized appropriately, vacuum out the dust, drive with the tapcon installation kit (which is supposed to automatically disengage with the hex heads once in place. I have 4 holes now to patch from my last attempt alone in my garage and resorted to drywall anchors. I'm trying the Simpson brand masonry screw and hand tightening next. If that doesn't work I'll give up on the 1/4" and 3/16" masonry screws in cinder blocks. Brick and concrete work only slightly better for me, but never consistent enough that I don't always have a larger anchor on hand.
Definitely try hand-tightening. It's so easy to over-tighten, which completely strips the hole even if you over-tighten just by a small amount at the very end. Also be careful drilling the holes, making sure to keep the bit perfectly straight the whole way, or you may end up removing too much material and the threads of the screws won't have enough to grab onto.
My issue is I was trying to screw them thru a wood sheet with a 1/4" thickness. I have 1/4 x 1-1/4" tapcon screws. For whatever reason it doesn't anchor to the wall thru the wood. When I used a bracket, it anchored to the wall. Do you suggest I get a 1/4" x 2-1/4" screw instead? I'm currently using a 3/16 x 3-1/2" masonry drill bit.
1 inch embedment into the concrete is what is recommended so if the wood is 1/4" thick, and 1 and 1/4" long screw should be fine, and use several of them for better strength. You shouldn't be "screwing through" the wood so I'm not sure if that's a problem; maybe the hole is getting stripped? The screw should easily go through the wood and then into the concrete, finally holding it tight with either the beveled part of the concrete wood screw or the washer head.
@@toolsandrepairs that's exactly what I thought. Idk. I even had issues with switching over to using brackets instead.... I used the hammer drill option with the same masonry drill bit. When to put the screw in, it kept spinning. I decided to put construction adhesive on the nail, then stick it back in the hole to hold it instead. That was the recommended drill bit to used for the tapcon screws I have. Not sure if I should get a smaller drill bit.
@@mayaarroyoburton7840 Yeah it sounds like the drill holes were stripped. These screws have to be driven in very slowly and carefully. There isn't much material for the threads to grab. Then especially at the end, don't over-tighten or it'll strip the hole.
What is your opinion on which type on concrete anchor would be best to anchoring a gun safe? Are these tapcon better then a wedge anchor for preventing the safe from being pried up?
I think either should work but you can't beat the wedge anchor for tension (pull-out) strength. They make smaller ones if you don't want to drill as much.
Esos tornillos son de muy mala calidad. Estoy instalando un inodoro y tengo que empotrar la base al concreto. Hago el agujero con la broca y cuando pongo el tornillo se parte a la altura de donde termina la rosca. Probe 2 y ambos se rompieron.
In the best conditions they have a really good tension strength but personally I would only install a flat mount on concrete. Tapcons are best the more you use and a mount sometimes only has a few holes; with an articulating mount that is a lot of force pulling especially on the top two bolts. Sometimes there are a lot of holes in the mount which you can use 8 bolts instead of four, or a combination of expansion anchors and bolts.
Good video, but I tried these to mount a TV into brick and it was a nightmare, it just made stripped the hole and I had to go to plastics anchors which worked flawlessly. I'll never try Tapcon screws again.
With these, you have to be very careful tightening because the slightest bit of over-tightening will strip the hole. But I don't blame you for using plastic anchors, I think they are very strong and I use them often for TV mounting, etc.
The hammer drill is not to drive the tapcons, but to drill the (smooth) hole before driving them in with the regular driver setting. To drive them, you can use a ratchet wrench or screwdriver, or at least on the last turns to tighten them, if you're worried about stripping the threads.
If you have good, sharp bits and a good drill, it's definitely doable. It just takes longer, especially if your drill isn't powerful or if you have older bits.
The title matches what people searched for on RUclips. My guess is that it is a colloquialism like calling drywall "rock" no matter what brand it is or pronouncing masonry "masonary"
Here's Tapcons into concrete floor: ruclips.net/video/PsQGsQGQa6w/видео.html and Tapcon screws in concrete block: ruclips.net/video/4uWgHIy8C8Y/видео.html
Your video was fantastic. My project turned out perfectly thanks to your video. I knew absolutely nothing about using concrete bolts before your video. Thank you very much.
Happy to hear it and glad to help!
Very calming voice I am in full zen mode to tackle my project thanks for the pointers!
Glad it was helpful!
Gay
Used these for years to amount my hurricane shutters during the season. Never had any problem reusing the holes for over 25 years. Finally had custom shutters made and ditched the plywood
If you get lucky, the screws may thread right back into the original threads, as you experienced. Otherwise, the holes may strip and the screw will spin endlessly. In your case, you could have always just drilled another hole if that happened.
We've had very good experience with Tapcon concrete screws. High quality and reliable. Not cheap, but a very good product.
When attaching a ledger board to a concrete block wall, should the Tapcon be screwed into the empty cell, or into the solid walls or web of the block ?
The only reason to aim for a void would be to use some kind of toggle bolt. I've seen giant toggle bolts but not sure I'd trust them with a deck ledger. I aim for solid concrete with long concrete bolts but I also use wedge anchors for ledgers.
Fantastic video. Thank you. I'm interested in the blue dust blower that you used to clean out the powder from the hole. The dust blower appears at about 13:42 into the presentation. Can you please provide a link to where it can be purchased?
That is a plastic transfer pipette dropper actually but I've had better results from using a small plastic squeeze bottle held right up to the hole to blow the dust out. Either can be bought cheaply online (search "plastic transfer pipette" somewhere like Amazon) but the plastic bottle is probably more readily available in local stores also and you don't have to buy it in bulk
@@toolsandrepairs Thanks! Something like a small plastic squeeze bottle would be nice to have on hand for a multitude of uses.
I actually prefer using the impact driver with Tapcons, especially on a very snug fit. The impact actually creates less stress on the screw and the micro-chipping action helps in cutting threads into the brick. Only for final torque do I use hand tools.
I agree it can make it quicker to use impact for the first 98% or so of the way. I just wouldn't use any power driver at the end. Even by hand you have to be sure not to over-tighten.
Oooh - that's just the opposite. Using an impact driver greatly increases the likelihood your screw is just going to end up spinning in the hole.
Were you using a standard drill to insert the hex screws into the block wall? You mentioned that you don’t like to use a power drill for screws but it looks like you were. I’m trying to secure some wood shelving into block walls and it sounds like I need:
1. Hammer drill with concrete drill to drill hole
2. Either a ratchet driver/socket wrench (or power drill?) to insert screw into block wall
I use a power driver until the last 2 or so %. As long as you are driving straight, it should be fine. The main issue is the very last part where it tightens but has no give so if you over-tighten you will strip the hole. You can use a ratchet wrench or even a screw driver the whole time, it just takes a while.
@@toolsandrepairs what is a power driver? Something different that a regular drill and a hammer drill?
I need to screw a nylon strap to a brick wall so that they can hold up some trees during winter. With these work for that? Or is there something better? Thanks!
They should work if installed properly but I would use several screws for more holding power
I am starting to hate 1/4" and 3/16" tapcons. For the life of me I can't get tapcons to set in cinder blocks consistently. I use an sds rotary hammer drill, tapcon drill bits sized appropriately, vacuum out the dust, drive with the tapcon installation kit (which is supposed to automatically disengage with the hex heads once in place. I have 4 holes now to patch from my last attempt alone in my garage and resorted to drywall anchors.
I'm trying the Simpson brand masonry screw and hand tightening next. If that doesn't work I'll give up on the 1/4" and 3/16" masonry screws in cinder blocks. Brick and concrete work only slightly better for me, but never consistent enough that I don't always have a larger anchor on hand.
Definitely try hand-tightening. It's so easy to over-tighten, which completely strips the hole even if you over-tighten just by a small amount at the very end. Also be careful drilling the holes, making sure to keep the bit perfectly straight the whole way, or you may end up removing too much material and the threads of the screws won't have enough to grab onto.
My issue is I was trying to screw them thru a wood sheet with a 1/4" thickness. I have 1/4 x 1-1/4" tapcon screws. For whatever reason it doesn't anchor to the wall thru the wood. When I used a bracket, it anchored to the wall. Do you suggest I get a 1/4" x 2-1/4" screw instead? I'm currently using a 3/16 x 3-1/2" masonry drill bit.
1 inch embedment into the concrete is what is recommended so if the wood is 1/4" thick, and 1 and 1/4" long screw should be fine, and use several of them for better strength. You shouldn't be "screwing through" the wood so I'm not sure if that's a problem; maybe the hole is getting stripped? The screw should easily go through the wood and then into the concrete, finally holding it tight with either the beveled part of the concrete wood screw or the washer head.
@@toolsandrepairs that's exactly what I thought. Idk. I even had issues with switching over to using brackets instead.... I used the hammer drill option with the same masonry drill bit. When to put the screw in, it kept spinning. I decided to put construction adhesive on the nail, then stick it back in the hole to hold it instead. That was the recommended drill bit to used for the tapcon screws I have. Not sure if I should get a smaller drill bit.
@@mayaarroyoburton7840 Yeah it sounds like the drill holes were stripped. These screws have to be driven in very slowly and carefully. There isn't much material for the threads to grab. Then especially at the end, don't over-tighten or it'll strip the hole.
What is your opinion on which type on concrete anchor would be best to anchoring a gun safe? Are these tapcon better then a wedge anchor for preventing the safe from being pried up?
I think either should work but you can't beat the wedge anchor for tension (pull-out) strength. They make smaller ones if you don't want to drill as much.
tapcon claims their screw anchor is equal to or greater pullout than the wedge. easier install as well and removable.
which one would be good for handrail for stairs?
I’m interested in the same question you have. What did you end up using on a handrail?
@@gerardquintana8018 i used the ones that you have to use socket to tighten the screw
Did you change that chuck from your M18 drill? It looks different from my M18 drill.
Nothing changed, it's a 1/2" chuck for the drill/driver/hammer combo
Fabulous video! Thank you for posting this.
No problem, I'm glad you liked it, subscribe for more videos like this
Anyone else thinking of getting a TAPCON 4 LIFE tattoo?
Just u
Can you use in black top
Do they make these in 1 inch diameter?
I've seen other brands as large as 3/4" but I don't think the Tapcon brand has them that size.
Esos tornillos son de muy mala calidad. Estoy instalando un inodoro y tengo que empotrar la base al concreto. Hago el agujero con la broca y cuando pongo el tornillo se parte a la altura de donde termina la rosca. Probe 2 y ambos se rompieron.
Will these work with an articulating mount?
In the best conditions they have a really good tension strength but personally I would only install a flat mount on concrete. Tapcons are best the more you use and a mount sometimes only has a few holes; with an articulating mount that is a lot of force pulling especially on the top two bolts. Sometimes there are a lot of holes in the mount which you can use 8 bolts instead of four, or a combination of expansion anchors and bolts.
@@toolsandrepairs Thank you!!
Great video. Very informative.
Glad it was helpful! Subscribe for more informative videos
Great video. These are awesome
I'm glad you liked it, thank you! Subscribe for more videos like this one
Good video, but I tried these to mount a TV into brick and it was a nightmare, it just made stripped the hole and I had to go to plastics anchors which worked flawlessly. I'll never try Tapcon screws again.
With these, you have to be very careful tightening because the slightest bit of over-tightening will strip the hole. But I don't blame you for using plastic anchors, I think they are very strong and I use them often for TV mounting, etc.
strong work!
Excellent
👍👍👍.Thank you
thank you
I would never use a hammer drill to install the tapcons. The hammering action would weaken the concrete threads the screw is creating.
The hammer drill is not to drive the tapcons, but to drill the (smooth) hole before driving them in with the regular driver setting. To drive them, you can use a ratchet wrench or screwdriver, or at least on the last turns to tighten them, if you're worried about stripping the threads.
I don't even use a hammer drill I use a regular drill for concrete
If you have good, sharp bits and a good drill, it's definitely doable. It just takes longer, especially if your drill isn't powerful or if you have older bits.
Tapcons are efficient in concrete. Not hollow cinderblocks.
What would you prefer to use if mounting something to hollow cinder block?
Why does everyone call them cinderblocks they’re not made of cinders😂 they are made of concrete not cinders just me being OCD lol😅
The title matches what people searched for on RUclips. My guess is that it is a colloquialism like calling drywall "rock" no matter what brand it is or pronouncing masonry "masonary"
Historical reasons. They originally were made of cinders. The recipe changed over time but not the name
All that talking and I still don’t see any concrete.
Here's Tapcons into concrete floor: ruclips.net/video/PsQGsQGQa6w/видео.html and Tapcon screws in concrete block: ruclips.net/video/4uWgHIy8C8Y/видео.html
Thx for putting brick in the title then not showing it....truly useless
Tapcons in brick: ruclips.net/video/rRpi1usP7_c/видео.html