Consider avoiding wobbling the bit around as it will effect the grab of the screw and when using thinner bits will cause breakage, also run the drill slow to create a center point as you begin the hole. I mount a lot of things that have set location holes and have found it makes for a much cleaner job.
thank you so much i am a mechanic by trade, however ive always been terrible at hanging shelfs/workshop equipment in my rented garage. this video was really clear, concise and i really appreciated the tip you gave about using a smaller size bit and why its necessary.
I have countersink type Tapcons in my Box but I rarely use that configuration. I mostly use the HexHeads because I use washers with them for additional holding capability. I might use a driver to sink the Tapcon into the hole. But before it bottoms out I switch to a Socket Wrench to finish. Because it affords me greater control and I don't have to worry about them being tightened to the point where they go too far and loosen up. Prior to screwing in the Tapcon Fastener, I always cover the screw portion with "No More Nails" adhesive. Once in they stay. And I don't use a screw driver bit to put in my HexHeads, I use a socket. And depending on what I am mounting to a wall, etc. I sometimes put the adhesive on the underside of the washers as well.
I've been both cursed and blessed with a concrete build house. TapCons are a blessing. Where were they most of my life? But do pay attention to matching the drill bit size and not over torquing.
Tapcons changed the game of masonry anchors, but they do have their own set of issues like anything else does. They're persnickety about perfect holes; too loose they won't grab and too tight they break off. To keep the threads from smearing off they must be hardened, and hardened fasteners are brittle so they shouldn't be used for structural loads. Correct tightness is something learned only through experience, and you'll snap head off until you learn which is very frustrating. They do have an off-label use where they work very well... We were adding a staircase to the outside of a deck supported by metal pipe posts, and we needed to attach a handrail system to those posts which don't have a lot of wall thickness. We could weld brackets to the posts but we had no welder. Drilling and tapping the pipe would be dicey with the thin metal stripping out easily. So we clamped the wood in place, chose a metal bit equal to the minor diameter (shank) of some Tapcon screws for a pilot hole, and drove them through the wood into the metal where they held beautifully. What happens here is that the thread's coarser pitch than machine screws have gives the Tapcons more metal thickness for each thread to bite into, and the hardened threads push into the softer metal of the pipe making for a tighter grip than a tapped hole can have. This trick won't work on thicker metals as the screws will snap off, but that can be drilled and tapped. It's not good for softer metal like aluminum either unless there's adequate thickness, but it's a great time and money saver when you can use it. Just remember- no structural loads for Tapcons.
Have the tap con installion kit and never fails if I'm using a dozen of them two holes will strip out. Tried 3 different hammer drill & a cordless drill for holes and all had stepped holes. If I want a best in class 100% positive results will drill a 1/2" hole and use my Greenlee screw in anchor setting tool to set a 1/4" lead anchor. For lighter work use a plastic anchor and drill a 1/4" hole.
I just used my m12 hammer drill to attach a new medicine cabinet in a restaurant bathroom, very fun! Used a tapcon as well. Got to teach someone about hole vs tap con size as well. Great video as always
I strip the hole EVERY time. I use the bit that is stated on the Tapcon box. Make the hole. Use compressed air to clean the hole. Drive the screw in. Strip. The other day, i did the final step with my hand and a screwdriver. Strip. On that same job I drilled two other holes, compressed air, then screwed in the Tapcon by hand like before, but then as soon as it looked like it was screwed in all the way, I stopped and said "that's good". Its not completely tight but I know if I would have cranked on it; strip.
I use one size smaller bit then tapcon specifies. If its to small I just give it a quick waller. This way they never strip out. Works for me but you do you.
SDS plus. With the Milwaukee or Bosch kit for drilling with the sleeve for a bit to slide over the drill bit. That's my set-up and the speed is ridiculous, and the power really gets that tapcon in.
the reason you use a 3/16" bit is because the shaft of the screw is 3/16" and the outside diameter of the threads is 1/4" (the threads need something to bite into) it's not because you you move your drill bit from side to side when you are drilling....and why not use a hex base 3/16" drill bit and you only need to use your impact driver for drilling and driving the screw
The only problem is tapcons are crap and you can’t unscrew them after a few years old they brake off to easily and also don’t come out the way they should otherwise as always your right about the tools you show on your channel and amazing advice on how tos
You can't reuse tapcons, or the holes you drilled for them, so why are you taking them out? Only reason I can think of is if you fucked something up during the build. If that's the case, build on top of the wood. That's why you put it there
@@bradprater4789 it’s not Because I fucked up it’s because I wanted to remove them cause the application I was using them for I didn’t need anymore and also wanted to replace the item I was using them to tie down with and wanted to replace the item I used them to tie down with and the tops popped off like pop bottle lids and they were only a year or 2 old since I put them in
Glad to see they went to Torx head screws. I have had better luck with the hex heads in concrete. You also need a can of compressed air to blow out the dust after drilling in concrete because the dust will compress and prevent the screw from going in all the way or possibly cause a snap off. Thanks for the primer.
Now do the same thing into a solid concrete wall. I can’t tell you how many Tapcons I have snapped in my day. I gave up and went with Toggler brand Alligator anchors. Not as handy or quick, but it sure beats the frustration of snapping a tapcon . I did learn recently that tap con is not supposed to go into the concrete more than 1 inch and I think I was trying to drive it farther than that. Anyway, it would be a good tutorial.
Every Tapcon screw I've removed from concrete that's been in ground contact for a few years was rusty. Not sure how long it would take before failure, but a little disconcerting.
You don't want to use hammer mode to sink tapcons. Better to put it back in normal mode or you're gonna go hammering on the bit the threads are supposed to hold and weaken it. Though I also prefer to use an impact driver. I donno if it might do that too, but I don't think it hits as hard down.
The problem with an impact is rotational shaking that happens when it starts to encounter resistance. This shaking causes loose concrete to fall around the thread of the screw, it then gums up and you end up braking the head off before you have driven it home. As per the instructions, blow out loose dust and debris from the hole then sink the screw with a drill in standard rotational mode.
I know it's common parlance for people within the USA, but for those of us in the rest of the world, the phrase "Big Box Store" means nothing. Is it a big store for boxes? Is it a store for big boxes? How much do they charge to store my big boxes there?
Yeah, I wasn't sure what the bug ball if fire in the sky was, but one if my neighbors told me it's supposed to be there 🤔. They also told me I shouldn't have stared directly into it for 3 hours 😪
Consider avoiding wobbling the bit around as it will effect the grab of the screw and when using thinner bits will cause breakage, also run the drill slow to create a center point as you begin the hole. I mount a lot of things that have set location holes and have found it makes for a much cleaner job.
thank you so much i am a mechanic by trade, however ive always been terrible at hanging shelfs/workshop equipment in my rented garage. this video was really clear, concise and i really appreciated the tip you gave about using a smaller size bit and why its necessary.
And I really appreciate this comment. Thanks 57👊👊
I have countersink type Tapcons in my Box but I rarely use that configuration. I mostly use the HexHeads because I use washers with them for additional holding capability.
I might use a driver to sink the Tapcon into the hole. But before it bottoms out I switch to a Socket Wrench to finish. Because it affords me greater control and I don't have to worry about them being tightened to the point where they go too far and loosen up.
Prior to screwing in the Tapcon Fastener, I always cover the screw portion with "No More Nails" adhesive. Once in they stay. And I don't use a screw driver bit to put in my HexHeads, I use a socket. And depending on what I am mounting to a wall, etc. I sometimes put the adhesive on the underside of the washers as well.
I've been both cursed and blessed with a concrete build house. TapCons are a blessing. Where were they most of my life? But do pay attention to matching the drill bit size and not over torquing.
Thank you!!! Great job for us newbies.
Tapcons changed the game of masonry anchors, but they do have their own set of issues like anything else does. They're persnickety about perfect holes; too loose they won't grab and too tight they break off. To keep the threads from smearing off they must be hardened, and hardened fasteners are brittle so they shouldn't be used for structural loads. Correct tightness is something learned only through experience, and you'll snap head off until you learn which is very frustrating. They do have an off-label use where they work very well...
We were adding a staircase to the outside of a deck supported by metal pipe posts, and we needed to attach a handrail system to those posts which don't have a lot of wall thickness. We could weld brackets to the posts but we had no welder. Drilling and tapping the pipe would be dicey with the thin metal stripping out easily. So we clamped the wood in place, chose a metal bit equal to the minor diameter (shank) of some Tapcon screws for a pilot hole, and drove them through the wood into the metal where they held beautifully. What happens here is that the thread's coarser pitch than machine screws have gives the Tapcons more metal thickness for each thread to bite into, and the hardened threads push into the softer metal of the pipe making for a tighter grip than a tapped hole can have. This trick won't work on thicker metals as the screws will snap off, but that can be drilled and tapped. It's not good for softer metal like aluminum either unless there's adequate thickness, but it's a great time and money saver when you can use it. Just remember- no structural loads for Tapcons.
My brother this video is super useful. This is why I love this channel!!!
Really appreciate this comment Mike, thanks brother 👊
Have the tap con installion kit and never fails if I'm using a dozen of them two holes will strip out. Tried 3 different hammer drill & a cordless drill for holes and all had stepped holes. If I want a best in class 100% positive results will drill a 1/2" hole and use my Greenlee screw in anchor setting tool to set a 1/4" lead anchor. For lighter work use a plastic anchor and drill a 1/4" hole.
I'd you strip the hole put a couple of zipties in there,works amazingly
Awesome! Great video, Clint. As an amateur DIY'er, I enjoy watching how it's done on a professional level!
I just used my m12 hammer drill to attach a new medicine cabinet in a restaurant bathroom, very fun! Used a tapcon as well. Got to teach someone about hole vs tap con size as well. Great video as always
Awesome job. Didn’t realize T30 bit was also used on my bike, gonna use my M18 to install a new bottom bracket.
I strip the hole EVERY time. I use the bit that is stated on the Tapcon box. Make the hole. Use compressed air to clean the hole. Drive the screw in. Strip. The other day, i did the final step with my hand and a screwdriver. Strip. On that same job I drilled two other holes, compressed air, then screwed in the Tapcon by hand like before, but then as soon as it looked like it was screwed in all the way, I stopped and said "that's good". Its not completely tight but I know if I would have cranked on it; strip.
Thanks Clint. Learning more every day.
Awesomeness. Thanks brother 👊
Thank you for the great presentation!! You gave me a ton of confidence to continue with my project!!
You got this 👊👊👊
I use one size smaller bit then tapcon specifies. If its to small I just give it a quick waller. This way they never strip out. Works for me but you do you.
SDS plus. With the Milwaukee or Bosch kit for drilling with the sleeve for a bit to slide over the drill bit. That's my set-up and the speed is ridiculous, and the power really gets that tapcon in.
the reason you use a 3/16" bit is because the shaft of the screw is 3/16" and the outside diameter of the threads is 1/4" (the threads need something to bite into) it's not because you you move your drill bit from side to side when you are drilling....and why not use a hex base 3/16" drill bit and you only need to use your impact driver for drilling and driving the screw
If your drilling into unknown slab or foundation , use the Diablo bit , will cut through the unseen rebar. It's marked on the packaging .
But Clint, what if I don’t have a basement or a cinderblock? Can I still use a tapcon somewhere?
Hmmmm, do you have anyone that could lend you a basement and or cinder block 🤔
@@ToolReviewZone Ha ha. Always appreciate the great content!
The only problem is tapcons are crap and you can’t unscrew them after a few years old they brake off to easily and also don’t come out the way they should otherwise as always your right about the tools you show on your channel and amazing advice on how tos
You can't reuse tapcons, or the holes you drilled for them, so why are you taking them out?
Only reason I can think of is if you fucked something up during the build. If that's the case, build on top of the wood. That's why you put it there
Technically, I guess you can reuse the tapcons/holes, if you do, you shouldn't be working on other people's property. Keep the hack shit at the house
@@bradprater4789 it’s not Because I fucked up it’s because I wanted to remove them cause the application I was using them for I didn’t need anymore and also wanted to replace the item I was using them to tie down with and wanted to replace the item I used them to tie down with and the tops popped off like pop bottle lids and they were only a year or 2 old since I put them in
Really good video…..everything explained in an easy way and not condescending either….well done fella…👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
This could not have come at a better time. I currently need to attach some wood to some cinder block. You're an alright dude
Really happy helped. Let me know how it turns out tooth! 👊
Glad to see they went to Torx head screws. I have had better luck with the hex heads in concrete. You also need a can of compressed air to blow out the dust after drilling in concrete because the dust will compress and prevent the screw from going in all the way or possibly cause a snap off. Thanks for the primer.
great tip, thanks
Now do the same thing into a solid concrete wall. I can’t tell you how many Tapcons I have snapped in my day. I gave up and went with Toggler brand Alligator anchors. Not as handy or quick, but it sure beats the frustration of snapping a tapcon . I did learn recently that tap con is not supposed to go into the concrete more than 1 inch and I think I was trying to drive it farther than that. Anyway, it would be a good tutorial.
I've done it many times. Just have to make sure the hoke is deep enough or it will snap
that was so well explained. I understand fully. great video.
You can get around bit drift by using a center punch on the material just as you would for metal. 👍🍻
THANKS Clint! I didn't know any of this before watching this video. So now I'm off to attach my woodage to the basement wall. It's gonna hurt.
Hahaha, good luck with all that woodage Kraz 🤣👊
Those are fine bits I own two sets of Bosch bits
Bosch makes great bits
Great video mate. Very informative.
Thanks Harry!!!!
If you don’t have a smaller drill bit you can throw some zip ties in and it will anchor it nicely
Very informative video Clint!
Thanks balamal!!!
Every Tapcon screw I've removed from concrete that's been in ground contact for a few years was rusty. Not sure how long it would take before failure, but a little disconcerting.
I haven’t seen the T30 tapcons, only hex and Phillips. The T30 would be nice .
Clint, you've got to admit that the Ramset is just more fun.
Cool Clint those tapcons can be tricky you definitely have to predrilled
What's up Jamal! 👊
I drill into a small plastic bottle cap to make a chuck cover/ protector. I dislike slamming and grinding it into concrete
THANKS CLINT!!!!
And thank you too Leonard!!!
You don't want to use hammer mode to sink tapcons. Better to put it back in normal mode or you're gonna go hammering on the bit the threads are supposed to hold and weaken it. Though I also prefer to use an impact driver. I donno if it might do that too, but I don't think it hits as hard down.
The problem with an impact is rotational shaking that happens when it starts to encounter resistance. This shaking causes loose concrete to fall around the thread of the screw, it then gums up and you end up braking the head off before you have driven it home. As per the instructions, blow out loose dust and debris from the hole then sink the screw with a drill in standard rotational mode.
Can I use a Tapcon to fasten a stair railing to stamp concrete?
Need to install a ceiling fan in a condo with a concrete ceiling. Yes or No?
It would work
Can I use an impact driver to drill a hole in concrete?
Very good information
Thanks ebs
Great information. Thanks.
Does Tapcon works with unistone? Seed to secure sun shelter posts to our unistone deck. Thanks!
Per the instructions on the package Turn Off the hammer mode when driving the screws
I love me a tapcon!
Nicely done
Thanks Alx 👊👊
Thanks! But you forgot to emphasize the MOIST at the beginning of the video
I can do better, I will do better 😪
“It ain’t goin’ nowheraahh!”
That’s real nass like 💪🏽💪🏽
Smeesh that like button. 👀👉🏼 👍🏽
Thanks for the comment and SMEEESH Jason!!!!!!
Cool video
this is "real nas like!"
I know it's common parlance for people within the USA, but for those of us in the rest of the world, the phrase "Big Box Store" means nothing.
Is it a big store for boxes?
Is it a store for big boxes?
How much do they charge to store my big boxes there?
LOL , damn OhiO .. i see its a usual "sunny" day in the great lakes LOL
Yeah, I wasn't sure what the bug ball if fire in the sky was, but one if my neighbors told me it's supposed to be there 🤔. They also told me I shouldn't have stared directly into it for 3 hours 😪
It seem like you were pushing it hard into the CMU
Drillin n Fillin holes. Yeah boi.
This was real nice like....lol
The most annoying sound on any jobsite is a hammer drill
Hahaha, it really is. I mentioned it in the video, but must have trimmed out the clip when I said it 🤣👊
Nass
Haha, what's up Peter! 👊👊👊
"...Concretist" ?
What's a " concretist" ?
Exactly!
Let's tap threads in concrete. A stupider idea has yet to be conceived. These things strip out and don't hold crap!
Bro you have the best videos for information and they are funny as well. 👍🏻👍🏻 2 thumbs up on another great video.
Thanks brother, really appreciate the comment and smeesh
How old is that wood? What is the woodage?🫣