I was using tap cons for the first time today and one out of the four holes that I drilled was too big so this toothpick method will help immensely thank you so much!
Glad to help! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thanks ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Great tips. I had to use the wire to bind a tapcon and it works very well. Feels extremely sturdy and that is in a hole where the tapcon pulled out with my fingertips minimal effort. Thanks for the advice.
I’ve been using this method for years. I only use 12 gauge wire though. The copper is soft and allows the threads of the tapcon to bite into it the best
Great, straight to the point video, with no blabbering, and even hints in the form of subtitles. Quintessential example of how to make a how-to video. Bravo!👏
Thank you so much. I didn't have any of those things kicking around, so I took one of those little plastic ties you sometimes find holding things coiled in a shipping package..I think they are a tiny strip of wire embedded in plastic. Worked perfectly the same way!
This was really helpful - I did the toothpick trick on 4 holes for the wallmount for a 150 pound teaching monitor and they went in great and nice and snug. Thanks so much!
I've used the toothpick trick for years but one day I tried a nylon cable tie with good results too. My garage has brick walls and I've used boxes of tapcons for mounting things (French cleats, etc) and they really are the best when you get them tight. Cheers.
If you're drilling in soft concrete, use a bit 1/32" smaller. So for 3/16" Tapcons use a 1/8" bit, and for 1/4" Tapcons use a 5/32" bit. Installing Tapcons by hand is ok for a homeowner that doesn't have a lot to put in, isn't experienced with putting them in, and doesn't have the experience to control the drill and "feel" what they're drilling. Don't screw Tapcons in with a hammer drill. If you use an impact, you need the control and experience to feel what's going on, and don't let it start impacting more than once. A drill with a clutch (or drill control experience) is best.
With amount of times these Tapcon screws strip I find amazing that they are required as part of building codes. They literally do this 50% of the time, if not more.
If you’re installing them correctly that won’t happen. Tapcons aren’t like regular screws obviously and it takes a certain understanding and experience to know how to put them in right. The most important is to drill the hole as straight in as possible so you don’t make it wider than the bit. It’s also good to clean the hole out of lose debris as best you can. If you have a vacuum handy I recommend using that. When you screw the tapcon in drive it in as straight as possible with just a little pressure. To much isn’t good and too little isn’t either. And most importantly never over tighten them. Once they stop you can apply a small amount of torque to them but if you over do it that’s when they strip
Glad the video helped! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for many other videos of interest to you, and share my channel with others. Thank you
Dang, he has friends in high places I see. Well what you both do is awesome and thank you for sharing yall knowledge to the General Public. Especially enjoy the analysis you put putting different types of similar product toe to toe.
Good tip if a hole gets messed up. I use an impact driver with no clutch to drive the Tapcon screws if I’m doing numerous screws. I find to get accurate hole size especially in softer concrete its best to drill the hole 1st with a smaller diameter. If drilling a 5/32” hole I’ll use a 1/8” drill 1st. I’ll do this particularly if the 5/32 drill is worn. The finished hole will be much tighter& true to size & the 5/32” drill will last much longer. The 1/8” drill bits are cheaper & not fragile in their shorter lengths. Also Milwaukee & Bosch carbide drills are much better than Tapcon drills which wear rapidly
Nice! As a property maintenance tech, electrician, plumber, mechanic, nuclear weapons technician, etc. I know your pain. Here's how to avoid the pain. 1. Capture the cement/concrete drilling dust. (lots of ways, use your imagination). 2. Squirt superglue into the drilled holes. Try to wet the entire hole. (Wait 10 min.) 3. Before inserting the Tapcon, take a toothpick and partially refill the hole with some of the drill dust. 4. Install the Tapcon, using a DRILL w/clutch setting about 50%. DO NOT use an impact gun. It shouldn't strip on you now. If it does, STOP USING AN IMPACT GUN TO INSTALL TAPCONS.
I used Tapcon in a Florida condo I purchased to install larger junction boxes in the ceiling for the ceiling fans. I did not have one strip out. The condo was about 10 years old, I am sure that helped. Also, block is a lot softer than cured concrete
Norm, it stripped out and you used this method to correct the issue. I know it and you know it too. BTW the fan work great and boxes still solid as a rock to this day. That was 17 years ago to this day and we still appreciate. But I never got that caulk stain off the Berch Wood trim though. So anytime you are back in Florida and want to post a video on replacing Berch Wood trim panel or perhaps restaining; that would be a welcome gesture.
@@Zaven59 Norm475 took a real round about way in participating in the comments here; and I just wanted to get the story straight for everyone to grasp.
Slivers from cedar shims resist rot. (Warning below) But, my favorite is zip ties. 1) Drill hole 2) insert 1-2 standard zip-ties to the bottom of the hole, (note the direction that the concrete is strongest and insert along that axis.) 3) Start ANY screw (rust resistant always better), then trim the ties by cutting against the screw (or not). 4) Drive it home. Warnings: A) If using copper wire you risk electrolysis and potential RAPID rusting of the screw. B) Untreated wood rots quick in damp concrete. Enjoying your posts!
Been using the toothpick/wood trick for years and it's never let me down. I found a lot of the time that I had to drill holes a size smaller than what the manufacturers instructions would say for tapcons or masonry anchors. Otherwise I would drill the hole too large.
Nice work! I have also used permatex gasket maker. But only if only one hole is stripped like in your situation. It takes several days to cure to full strength and seems to be stronger than typical construction silicon. Can still remove the tapcon later. As opposed to using jb weld🙈
@@electronicsNmore I get it. I live in Manitoba where the winter temperature gradient from inside to outside can be from 70 degrees F to -40. Inside air typically has 20-40% Relative Humidity and the RH number for outside air at those cold temperatures is basically meaningless because there’s basically no water vapour. So there’s a significant delta between internal and external vapour pressure. Inside water vapour finds its way out through walls. Building materials have vapoour permeability ratings or “perms”. So we use 6 mil poly “on the warm side”. Without a water vapour barrier moisture is forced through the wall and first condenses and then freezes inside the wall, eventually either causing mould, or other types of physical deterioration of building materials. Plumbers and electricians don’t understand water vapour and sabotage vapour barriers at will. Tapcons in masonry typically puncture the 6 mil poly. So I like to seal them up again whenever I can. Can use both copper wire and sealant. But then, Florida… determining the warm side is a little more challenging. And how often is there a cold side when dew point or freezing temperatures occur?
Thanks so much for this video. It’s helped me address the loose wall mounted laundry rack that’s been bugging me for years. Going around the house to maximise those toothpicks now 😂
U can also use 3mm bamboo skewers which are really inexpensive in packs of 100, and useful for a lot of stuff where a tiny wood dowel will do the trick. For this application I'd scrape the skewer flat on one side w/a utility knife and insert with the flat towards the screw threads
For equipment racks that get holes stripped by dopes using power tools to tighten the fastening screws, I use a garbage bag tie in the hole with the screw. The ties with steel wire inside of paper will work the best.
I did this on my vacuum motor that went bad. I ordered a new motor and when I went to tighten the screws the hole was stripped. So I used a piece of a milk carton plastic in the hole and it worked perfectly
... many of the videos just like this is nothing new to me but worth watching what you present as always to confirm what I do is proper, so thanks. I notice others are the same in a way. Project farm seem to always reply with a almost generic compliment as he does on his own video comments which their is nothing wrong with that and he is nice despite his channel is big. Also maybe explain tapcon since I used so many things and dont know terminology. LOL
Glad it helped John! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thanks ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
I do hvac and sometimes the disconnect boxes get loose. So my coworker showed me that a cut zip tie would do the trick and it does. But ill also try these methods because sometimes the ziptie doesn’t work😂.
will this hack work for outdoor masonry expansion anchors? if so, whats the best material to use. copper wire, zip tie piece or maybe steel wool? i'm thinking steel wool would rust away?
I am putting up a gas arm wall mount for a heavy computer monitor. My walls are terrible - feels like an inch of dust followed by solid steel. The holes are drilled, but bolt screws won't hold. I have used little strips of wood before, but these holes are rather large and, since lowering the gas arm puts so much strain on the wall, the connection needs to be rock solid. Should I just use a bigger shard of wood or would a piece of thicker wire work best?
My son has one of those plastic garden hose caddies which is in the way of walk area…do NOT want to use those cheap wall mount 1/4 moon shaped things that hang on wall for hose… where did u get that bracket at and what is it used for TYVM A side note…if drilling into a floor which causes all kind of dust blowing around of couse you can turn on shop vac while drilling…here’s what we would do in the old day… mark hole spot to drill have bit in drill already line bit up on marked spot squirt some white shaving cream at location this will keep dust in place then just wipe up with damp or dry paper towel
Also a great way to drive nails into concrete… drill hole, insert copper wire and hammer nail as it is were wood. Works every time and very strong as well!
I prefer the copper wire (or even steel wire) over the wood (because wood can rot, if the wall gets damp.) Plastic is okay; but, it can also deform and flow (which might be a good thing.)
Driving them by hand is pretty good, if you have experience. The screws are very hard (so also brittle), if you over-torque (particularly with a power tool) they will snap quite suddenly. Getting them out, after they've broken off, is a lot harder then breaking them, on the way in.
Tapcons always break on me, too tight even when i use the tapcon drill bit. Yes i am not use an impact gun,. Wjen its really tight i take it out and redrill, still too tight. Not sure what i am doing wrong
Great trick! To make sure that anyone who may try and remove the object attached by the Tapcon in the future thoroughly understands the original installer wasn't messing around, start the Tapcon in the hole and then smear some freshly mixed hydraulic cement on the threads (sparingly) and turn it in. While the remover may never know your name? You can be certain he/she will remember that day and hate you forever. 😈😱
Why even buy masonry screws like tapcon if only small fraction of screw treaded surface is held by contact friction of TOOTHPICK width? Holding strength of screw is supposed to be the contact area of screw treaded surface with material treaded into creates calculable friction force to act against force pulling out screw!
That's a good point however there are a few things to be careful of when using them for it to work as intended. Depending how you drill there may be excess debris left in the hole. You really want to vacuum regardless. Too much debris will be like taking street tires for serious mud or off road use, it'll just clog the tread and not bite, same here. The other is be sure the drill bit is secure in the chuck, doesn't wobble or go in at a off angle where you've made the hole too large by accident.
A very common problem is that people fail to drill the hole deep enough. When that happens, the tapcon will become extremely tight and the head may snap off when you try to get it to go in deeper.
How do these options fair long term in outdoor applications? I've built some planters that're hanging on a cinder block wall, and a few of the holes stripped. Thanks so much for this great video! Hope you have a safe and happy 4th of July weekend!
Some Tapcon are pre-painted and using copper wire would not necessarily corrode that fast so I would assume quite well. And if very important to keep hold long time a little silicone sealant fresh over the pair before inserting I would think best to hold water from affecting them pair over long term.
Come on, Fritz. Why would you make something like that up? It's hard enough to get a spinning, hammering, CARBIDE drill bit to go into concrete; let alone a soft screw without a pilot hole. Either you are: 1) Straight up lying. 2) Installed ONE Tapcon in your life, and you happened to get it to go into super soft masonry, that was almost crumbling. I'm thinking it's the former.
@@littlejackalo5326 Should have mentioned the few times I've used them was in mortar joints and cider block and I had no problem not using a pilot hole
This would be tolerable in wood but it's Chinese landlord shit in concrete. Fill it with anchoring epoxy and you'll actually stand a chance at maintaining pull out strength.
He's speaking to the general homeowner. He does some stuff around the home, but not professionally. There isn't a professional alive that puts Tapcons in by hand. It would just take too long. But Joe homeowner usually can't control or "feel" what they're doing with a drill.
Ain't Tapcon screws WONDERFUL? 🙄 [sarcasm!] Until I can use up the ones I bought by mistake, I jam a wood kitchen match in the hole along with some Gorilla Glue. That'll hold.
Exactly, there was a reason for that. I did not want to overdrive the tapcon and risk stripping it out. I know the feel by hand which is exactly the pressure that I want
Dude you saved me. Sitting here banging my head against the wall as all my anchors strip. Voila! Trimmer string to the rescue worked perfectly!!!!!
Great to hear that the video helped! Be sure to check out my wide range of videos and share my channel with others. Thank you!
I was using tap cons for the first time today and one out of the four holes that I drilled was too big so this toothpick method will help immensely thank you so much!
Glad to help! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thanks
ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Great tip I've used to copper wire trick with great results, I've had a lot of tap tapcons strip out on me hanging pipe. Great video as always
Great tips. I had to use the wire to bind a tapcon and it works very well. Feels extremely sturdy and that is in a hole where the tapcon pulled out with my fingertips minimal effort. Thanks for the advice.
I’ve been using this method for years. I only use 12 gauge wire though. The copper is soft and allows the threads of the tapcon to bite into it the best
Thanks for watching and sharing!
Great, straight to the point video, with no blabbering, and even hints in the form of subtitles. Quintessential example of how to make a how-to video. Bravo!👏
Thank you so much. I didn't have any of those things kicking around, so I took one of those little plastic ties you sometimes find holding things coiled in a shipping package..I think they are a tiny strip of wire embedded in plastic. Worked perfectly the same way!
Excellent how to video eNm! I have used this trick many times over the years and it hasn't failed me yet! 👍👍
Great to hear!
Thank you!
I often use a zip tie of appropriate size to stuff the hole😎
That works too! :-)
THIS SAVED ME TODAY!! Thank you so much - I used both the toothpick and the trimmer ideas and both worked fantastic.
This was really helpful - I did the toothpick trick on 4 holes for the wallmount for a 150 pound teaching monitor and they went in great and nice and snug. Thanks so much!
I've used the toothpick trick for years but one day I tried a nylon cable tie with good results too. My garage has brick walls and I've used boxes of tapcons for mounting things (French cleats, etc) and they really are the best when you get them tight. Cheers.
Thanks for watching!
Have used the toothpick “trick” in the past when dealing with stripped door hinge screws. I like knowing that it can save me in this situation too.
If you're drilling in soft concrete, use a bit 1/32" smaller. So for 3/16" Tapcons use a 1/8" bit, and for 1/4" Tapcons use a 5/32" bit. Installing Tapcons by hand is ok for a homeowner that doesn't have a lot to put in, isn't experienced with putting them in, and doesn't have the experience to control the drill and "feel" what they're drilling. Don't screw Tapcons in with a hammer drill. If you use an impact, you need the control and experience to feel what's going on, and don't let it start impacting more than once. A drill with a clutch (or drill control experience) is best.
With amount of times these Tapcon screws strip I find amazing that they are required as part of building codes. They literally do this 50% of the time, if not more.
If you’re installing them correctly that won’t happen. Tapcons aren’t like regular screws obviously and it takes a certain understanding and experience to know how to put them in right. The most important is to drill the hole as straight in as possible so you don’t make it wider than the bit. It’s also good to clean the hole out of lose debris as best you can. If you have a vacuum handy I recommend using that. When you screw the tapcon in drive it in as straight as possible with just a little pressure. To much isn’t good and too little isn’t either. And most importantly never over tighten them. Once they stop you can apply a small amount of torque to them but if you over do it that’s when they strip
It worked! I used trimmer string. Thank you so much!!
Glad the video helped! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for many other videos of interest to you, and share my channel with others. Thank you
Always very informative and helpful!! Looking forward to your next video
Dang, he has friends in high places I see. Well what you both do is awesome and thank you for sharing yall knowledge to the General Public. Especially enjoy the analysis you put putting different types of similar product toe to toe.
High praise from Project Farm!
Good tip if a hole gets messed up. I use an impact driver with no clutch to drive the Tapcon screws if I’m doing numerous screws. I find to get accurate hole size especially in softer concrete its best to drill the hole 1st with a smaller diameter. If drilling a 5/32” hole I’ll use a 1/8” drill 1st. I’ll do this particularly if the 5/32 drill is worn. The finished hole will be much tighter& true to size & the 5/32” drill will last much longer. The 1/8” drill bits are cheaper & not fragile in their shorter lengths. Also Milwaukee & Bosch carbide drills are much better than Tapcon drills which wear rapidly
Nice! As a property maintenance tech, electrician, plumber, mechanic, nuclear weapons technician, etc. I know your pain. Here's how to avoid the pain.
1. Capture the cement/concrete drilling dust. (lots of ways, use your imagination).
2. Squirt superglue into the drilled holes. Try to wet the entire hole. (Wait 10 min.)
3. Before inserting the Tapcon, take a toothpick and partially refill the hole with some of the drill dust.
4. Install the Tapcon, using a DRILL w/clutch setting about 50%. DO NOT use an impact gun. It shouldn't strip on you now. If it does, STOP USING AN IMPACT GUN TO INSTALL TAPCONS.
When this happens to me, I use a wire tie. Then cut off the excess. Works every time.
As long as the shim is thick enough, the tapcon will not come out.
I used Tapcon in a Florida condo I purchased to install larger junction boxes in the ceiling for the ceiling fans. I did not have one strip out. The condo was about 10 years old, I am sure that helped. Also, block is a lot softer than cured concrete
Thanks for watching Norm!
Norm, it stripped out and you used this method to correct the issue. I know it and you know it too. BTW the fan work great and boxes still solid as a rock to this day. That was 17 years ago to this day and we still appreciate.
But I never got that caulk stain off the Berch Wood trim though. So anytime you are back in Florida and want to post a video on replacing Berch Wood trim panel or perhaps restaining; that would be a welcome gesture.
@@MuffinManUSN what the heck
@@Zaven59 Norm475 took a real round about way in participating in the comments here; and I just wanted to get the story straight for everyone to grasp.
@@MuffinManUSN do you know norm? 😂
Good info. I run into this problem quite a bit. Thanks for the help
Glad to help! Thanks for watching
Omg thank you you saved me so many years today.
Slivers from cedar shims resist rot.
(Warning below)
But, my favorite is zip ties.
1) Drill hole
2) insert 1-2 standard zip-ties to the bottom of the hole, (note the direction that the concrete is strongest and insert along that axis.)
3) Start ANY screw (rust resistant always better), then trim the ties by cutting against the screw (or not).
4) Drive it home.
Warnings:
A) If using copper wire you risk electrolysis and potential RAPID rusting of the screw.
B) Untreated wood rots quick in damp concrete.
Enjoying your posts!
Been using the toothpick/wood trick for years and it's never let me down. I found a lot of the time that I had to drill holes a size smaller than what the manufacturers instructions would say for tapcons or masonry anchors. Otherwise I would drill the hole too large.
Awesome thank you!
Nice work! I have also used permatex gasket maker. But only if only one hole is stripped like in your situation. It takes several days to cure to full strength and seems to be stronger than typical construction silicon. Can still remove the tapcon later. As opposed to using jb weld🙈
I prefer instant strength.
@@electronicsNmore I get it. I live in Manitoba where the winter temperature gradient from inside to outside can be from 70 degrees F to -40. Inside air typically has 20-40% Relative Humidity and the RH number for outside air at those cold temperatures is basically meaningless because there’s basically no water vapour. So there’s a significant delta between internal and external vapour pressure.
Inside water vapour finds its way out through walls. Building materials have vapoour permeability ratings or “perms”. So we use 6 mil poly “on the warm side”. Without a water vapour barrier moisture is forced through the wall and first condenses and then freezes inside the wall, eventually either causing mould, or other types of physical deterioration of building materials. Plumbers and electricians don’t understand water vapour and sabotage vapour barriers at will. Tapcons in masonry typically puncture the 6 mil poly. So I like to seal them up again whenever I can. Can use both copper wire and sealant. But then, Florida… determining the warm side is a little more challenging. And how often is there a cold side when dew point or freezing temperatures occur?
Thank you so much. I also live in one of these older concrete homes. Tried installing a flag today outside and ran into this problem.
Good information and demonstration
Thanks so much for this video. It’s helped me address the loose wall mounted laundry rack that’s been bugging me for years. Going around the house to maximise those toothpicks now 😂
U can also use 3mm bamboo skewers which are really inexpensive in packs of 100, and useful for a lot of stuff where a tiny wood dowel will do the trick. For this application I'd scrape the skewer flat on one side w/a utility knife and insert with the flat towards the screw threads
I've used those in the past as well.
Good tips. Trim toothpick, etc. before torqueing down the last 1/8" of the tapcon.
For equipment racks that get holes stripped by dopes using power tools to tighten the fastening screws, I use a garbage bag tie in the hole with the screw. The ties with steel wire inside of paper will work the best.
Thank you! What a simple remedy! 👍🏾
I did this on my vacuum motor that went bad. I ordered a new motor and when I went to tighten the screws the hole was stripped. So I used a piece of a milk carton plastic in the hole and it worked perfectly
This worked thanks a ton!
Thank you for your wonderful tips. They were extremely useful…
Thank you so much
... many of the videos just like this is nothing new to me but worth watching what you present as always to confirm what I do is proper, so thanks. I notice others are the same in a way.
Project farm seem to always reply with a almost generic compliment as he does on his own video comments which their is nothing wrong with that and he is nice despite his channel is big.
Also maybe explain tapcon since I used so many things and dont know terminology. LOL
Genius. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Nice! The weed wacker trim worked for me!
Awesome advice!
I just asked a question on your thermocoupling video about 4" pvc pipe pressure. I'm trying to make a portable water system 20ft long plus 2 fittings
I knew this trick, forgot this trick, cried a little and then found you on RUclips now. I am saved. Praise Jesus. 🙏
fantastic demonstration. I have spent 4 hours being frustrated until I viewed your video. You should charge for it.
Glad it helped John! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thanks
ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
I do hvac and sometimes the disconnect boxes get loose. So my coworker showed me that a cut zip tie would do the trick and it does. But ill also try these methods because sometimes the ziptie doesn’t work😂.
Thanks for watching!
Super helpful, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to check out my wide range of videos and share. Thank you
Amazing job best way to start my day😊
happens once in awhile good tip
All great ideas.
Glad you think so!
Fantastic! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to check out my wide range of videos and share my channel with others. Thank you
will this hack work for outdoor masonry expansion anchors? if so, whats the best material to use. copper wire, zip tie piece or maybe steel wool? i'm thinking steel wool would rust away?
I am putting up a gas arm wall mount for a heavy computer monitor. My walls are terrible - feels like an inch of dust followed by solid steel. The holes are drilled, but bolt screws won't hold. I have used little strips of wood before, but these holes are rather large and, since lowering the gas arm puts so much strain on the wall, the connection needs to be rock solid. Should I just use a bigger shard of wood or would a piece of thicker wire work best?
Useful information, as always.
You can also use zip tiies, the locking edges give a little more grip thanwood or trimmer wire to tne concrete
Tie wrap or zip ties work well too for this issue
Another great video.
Thanks Bud!
My son has one of those plastic garden hose caddies which is in the way of walk area…do NOT want to use those cheap wall mount 1/4 moon shaped things that hang on wall for hose… where did u get that bracket at and what is it used for
TYVM
A side note…if drilling into a floor which causes all kind of dust blowing around of couse you can turn on shop vac while drilling…here’s what we would do in the old day…
mark hole spot to drill
have bit in drill already
line bit up on marked spot
squirt some white shaving cream at location this will keep dust in place then just wipe up with damp or dry paper towel
If the hole is too big, knock the wall down and re-build it with a smaller hole
LOL
Great tips
Besides constricting the hole, the toothpick will clean the threads from the screw thereby letting the screw bite deeper into the rest of the hole.
Never had the toothpick fail. I also removed an anchor to see how the toothpick did, and it was completely intact but compressed.
excellent
Also a great way to drive nails into concrete… drill hole, insert copper wire and hammer nail as it is were wood. Works every time and very strong as well!
True, you'll have a wedge anchor.
I have a tip. Simpson has released a similar type of anchor. Stay away from them.
LOL
I prefer the copper wire (or even steel wire) over the wood (because wood can rot, if the wall gets damp.) Plastic is okay; but, it can also deform and flow (which might be a good thing.)
Driving them by hand is pretty good, if you have experience. The screws are very hard (so also brittle), if you over-torque (particularly with a power tool) they will snap quite suddenly. Getting them out, after they've broken off, is a lot harder then breaking them, on the way in.
I've never seen shims (from Tapcon) or any other manufacturer. I've seen people leave more than a few stripped ones installed too.
Outside I normally use a toothpick made from PT wood, or trimmer line.
Dude you are a savior, I had the exact same problem and the tooth pick trick worked perfectly 🙏
Yo. I had that drill. That sir....that right there...is a power house for it's time. Have you had the batteries rebuilt?
The battery pack is rebuilt using Tesla 21700s.
ruclips.net/video/yhr3X93DGjg/видео.html
cool ideas
Glad you think so! Thanks for watching
Tapcons always break on me, too tight even when i use the tapcon drill bit. Yes i am not use an impact gun,. Wjen its really tight i take it out and redrill, still too tight. Not sure what i am doing wrong
Do you clean the concrete dust out of the hole before you start screwing in the tapcon ?
Great trick! To make sure that anyone who may try and remove the object attached by the Tapcon in the future thoroughly understands the original installer wasn't messing around, start the Tapcon in the hole and then smear some freshly mixed hydraulic cement on the threads (sparingly) and turn it in.
While the remover may never know your name? You can be certain he/she will remember that day and hate you forever. 😈😱
I tossed all my Tapcons in the trash. GRK fasteners are much more durable and reliable every time.
Why even buy masonry screws like tapcon if only small fraction of screw treaded surface is held by contact friction of TOOTHPICK width? Holding strength of screw is supposed to be the contact area of screw treaded surface with material treaded into creates calculable friction force to act against force pulling out screw!
That's a good point however there are a few things to be careful of when using them for it to work as intended. Depending how you drill there may be excess debris left in the hole. You really want to vacuum regardless. Too much debris will be like taking street tires for serious mud or off road use, it'll just clog the tread and not bite, same here. The other is be sure the drill bit is secure in the chuck, doesn't wobble or go in at a off angle where you've made the hole too large by accident.
My problem when I use a drill is sometimes the screw doesn’t strip…..the torque snaps the head off. Very annoying.
A very common problem is that people fail to drill the hole deep enough. When that happens, the tapcon will become extremely tight and the head may snap off when you try to get it to go in deeper.
@@electronicsNmore you’re absolutely right….thanks.
@@electronicsNmore Yikes. What could you do in that situation?
I like to use a zip tie works for me every times
How do these options fair long term in outdoor applications? I've built some planters that're hanging on a cinder block wall, and a few of the holes stripped.
Thanks so much for this great video! Hope you have a safe and happy 4th of July weekend!
Some Tapcon are pre-painted and using copper wire would not necessarily corrode that fast so I would assume quite well. And if very important to keep hold long time a little silicone sealant fresh over the pair before inserting I would think best to hold water from affecting them pair over long term.
Outside I would used a toothpick made from PT wood using a utility knife, copper wire, or trimmer line.
Weed eater spring going on my HVAC van today.
... a short piece of a plastic wire tie works well ...
That’s old school.
You'd be surprised how many DIYers don't know these tips.
I've always used tapcons without even bothering with a pilot hole. Maybe I've got lucky!
I don't believe that for a second. Maybe (unlikely) in cynder block, but not solid concrete! Maybe you're using Tapcons in wood, not mortar...
Yea...naw...that's impossible
Come on, Fritz. Why would you make something like that up? It's hard enough to get a spinning, hammering, CARBIDE drill bit to go into concrete; let alone a soft screw without a pilot hole. Either you are:
1) Straight up lying.
2) Installed ONE Tapcon in your life, and you happened to get it to go into super soft masonry, that was almost crumbling.
I'm thinking it's the former.
*soft screw... Softer than carbide.
@@littlejackalo5326 Should have mentioned the few times I've used them was in mortar joints and cider block and I had no problem not using a pilot hole
No just use 1/8 bite for 3/16 5/32 makes the whole to big
I find 1/8" to be too tight.
This would be tolerable in wood but it's Chinese landlord shit in concrete. Fill it with anchoring epoxy and you'll actually stand a chance at maintaining pull out strength.
Good advice, don't post comments if you don't know what you're talking about.
Dont listen to him...use a drill to tighten the tapcon screw. Just don't allow it to over torque.
Do as you like, I speak from 35 years of experience working on concrete and brick homes.
He's speaking to the general homeowner. He does some stuff around the home, but not professionally. There isn't a professional alive that puts Tapcons in by hand. It would just take too long. But Joe homeowner usually can't control or "feel" what they're doing with a drill.
I would way better trust a strand of electrical wire. We used that trick for years.
What if the hole is three times too big? Idiot metal bolt things: hate them. Can’t go bigger with bolt because it’s going through a gate post…😢
Ain't Tapcon screws WONDERFUL? 🙄 [sarcasm!]
Until I can use up the ones I bought by mistake, I jam a wood kitchen match in the hole along with some Gorilla Glue. That'll hold.
🍔🍟🍔
Dude using hand tool.
Exactly, there was a reason for that. I did not want to overdrive the tapcon and risk stripping it out. I know the feel by hand which is exactly the pressure that I want
This could have been a short.
Thank you!
OMG the weed wacker!!!! Genius!!!!