I’m a newbie thanks for the info. I’m buying everything little by little. I’ve got a a lot of stuff, I gotta buy the the big things. Like a press, a chronograph, and an arrow saw. I’m getting there though little by little. Thanks again!I’ve already done my own arrows. I’m tinkering with quivers and rest, still learning on the rest though, a little intimidating but I’ll get through it. Thanks again. 🙏🏽
Very informative video. What if the existing tophats did not correct the issue then how do you choose the correct combination from the tophats kit. Also do you have to adjust the tophats on both top and bottom cams or can you just do the top or bottom individually?
Hi Mark, if I had made the top hat adjustment and it got me very close but I still had a left or right tear then I can use the rest adjustment to clean that paper tear up. Or I could buy a top hat kit from my pro shop and play with the variety of sizes offered in the kit to tune. Personally I like my rest at the 13/16s location (which offers me good clearance) and then use the top hat kit to push my cams left or right and tune out the paper tears. Mostly I use the top hats and then the rest as a micro tune to get a really good clean paper tear. Most of this is trial and error, tuning is a tinkering process. To tune left/right tears you have two primary options, move the cam(s) or move the rest, or a combination of both. In regards to moving top hats on one cam only...yes there have been bows that tuned that way. I'd suggest your start with the top cam, make the switch and reshoot through paper. If that doesn't work, make the switch with the bottom cam also and then reshoot through paper. I don't know it this sounds more complicated than need be, but after tinkering with it just a little, it's a really simple process!
@@trailkreitzer9163 Thank you for taking the time to reply. I really understand it, in fact it's one of the most informative & concise responses I have received.
Adjusting cam timing, you said you could either put a twist in the top cable or take one out of the bottom cable. Does it matter which way you do it, if so how do you know which one to do? Thanks for your videos.
Hi Ian, if I have a really clean bullet hole through paper from about 6-8ft then I step back to twenty yards and shoot a fletched shaft and a bare shaft at 20 yards. If the bareshaft has any deviation from the fletched then I might make a micro adjustment to the rest. Bare shaft tuning can be tedious though if you do not have the same grip/execution every time. Mostly I paper tune to a clean bullet hole, then sight in my pins out to my maximum effective range, and then I shoot broadheads. That's my end goal, to get my broadheads and fieldtips hitting the same spot out to my max range. I will shoot bare shafts to tune sometimes, but I put more weight in paper tuning and then broadhead tuning.
I enjoy these videos alot but I noticed when u where paper tuning u had a high tear I'm assuming that part of the issue is cause ur pointing down when paper tuning u should be shooting level otherwise ur going to get that high tear ? And then when u change that rest ur actually getting a false reading
Hi there, agreed you should shoot through paper at chest height for best results. The methodology is the same though. Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it!
Great video! Quick question. I’m getting a paper tear nock right. It’s on a Hoyt rx7, my cams are already in the furthest right position. I’ve also moved my rest to the left a decent amount too already. Each one of these things has helped but I am still getting a little bit of a right tear. Should I just keep moving my rest to the left to fix this? Or is something else going on? Thanks Trail!
Yeah, I know, I know, but... With a $500 bow I'd sort of expect to have to tune the timing, or at least except it. But, with a $1400 premium priced bow I find it ridiculous that they don't come properly timed from the factory. Prices have gotten stupid on bow over the last 10 years as it is. But when spending premium bow money, it should come out of the box ready to go from a basic tuning perspective. This is really a turn off for me...
I’m a newbie thanks for the info. I’m buying everything little by little. I’ve got a a lot of stuff, I gotta buy the the big things. Like a press, a chronograph, and an arrow saw. I’m getting there though little by little. Thanks again!I’ve already done my own arrows. I’m tinkering with quivers and rest, still learning on the rest though, a little intimidating but I’ll get through it. Thanks again. 🙏🏽
Thank you for sharing this great information 👍 Trail
God's Blessings on all your adventures
Great video, thank you for sharing
Appreciate that, and thanks for giving the video a watch!
You’re the man Trail
Awesome Video, thank you
Thanks for watching Wes!
Great information
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the watch.
Thank you boss..
Very informative video. What if the existing tophats did not correct the issue then how do you choose the correct combination from the tophats kit. Also do you have to adjust the tophats on both top and bottom cams or can you just do the top or bottom individually?
Hi Mark, if I had made the top hat adjustment and it got me very close but I still had a left or right tear then I can use the rest adjustment to clean that paper tear up. Or I could buy a top hat kit from my pro shop and play with the variety of sizes offered in the kit to tune. Personally I like my rest at the 13/16s location (which offers me good clearance) and then use the top hat kit to push my cams left or right and tune out the paper tears. Mostly I use the top hats and then the rest as a micro tune to get a really good clean paper tear. Most of this is trial and error, tuning is a tinkering process. To tune left/right tears you have two primary options, move the cam(s) or move the rest, or a combination of both. In regards to moving top hats on one cam only...yes there have been bows that tuned that way. I'd suggest your start with the top cam, make the switch and reshoot through paper. If that doesn't work, make the switch with the bottom cam also and then reshoot through paper. I don't know it this sounds more complicated than need be, but after tinkering with it just a little, it's a really simple process!
@@trailkreitzer9163 Thank you for taking the time to reply. I really understand it, in fact it's one of the most informative & concise responses I have received.
Adjusting cam timing, you said you could either put a twist in the top cable or take one out of the bottom cable. Does it matter which way you do it, if so how do you know which one to do? Thanks for your videos.
Will adding the twist to the cable affect your axle to axle length? What then?
Trail - what bow strings do you prefer now that Buck Slayer is no longer operating?
When you get a bullet hole in paper then move back to bare shaft at 20 would you adjust your rest only at that point?
Hi Ian, if I have a really clean bullet hole through paper from about 6-8ft then I step back to twenty yards and shoot a fletched shaft and a bare shaft at 20 yards. If the bareshaft has any deviation from the fletched then I might make a micro adjustment to the rest. Bare shaft tuning can be tedious though if you do not have the same grip/execution every time. Mostly I paper tune to a clean bullet hole, then sight in my pins out to my maximum effective range, and then I shoot broadheads. That's my end goal, to get my broadheads and fieldtips hitting the same spot out to my max range. I will shoot bare shafts to tune sometimes, but I put more weight in paper tuning and then broadhead tuning.
I enjoy these videos alot but I noticed when u where paper tuning u had a high tear I'm assuming that part of the issue is cause ur pointing down when paper tuning u should be shooting level otherwise ur going to get that high tear ? And then when u change that rest ur actually getting a false reading
Hi there, agreed you should shoot through paper at chest height for best results. The methodology is the same though. Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it!
What's that noise when you depressing with the press?
Great video! Quick question. I’m getting a paper tear nock right. It’s on a Hoyt rx7, my cams are already in the furthest right position. I’ve also moved my rest to the left a decent amount too already. Each one of these things has helped but I am still getting a little bit of a right tear. Should I just keep moving my rest to the left to fix this? Or is something else going on? Thanks Trail!
You have shimmied your cams all the way too the right . And moved your rest. And you said that helped try moving your rest just a little bit more.
What's the contraption sitting in front of your bow press
Good god Trail grease that press!!! Lol
That’s Brady’s press:) mine is smooth as butter
You could do all that tuning standing on the firing line, with a Bowtech. 😂
Yeah, I know, I know, but... With a $500 bow I'd sort of expect to have to tune the timing, or at least except it. But, with a $1400 premium priced bow I find it ridiculous that they don't come properly timed from the factory. Prices have gotten stupid on bow over the last 10 years as it is. But when spending premium bow money, it should come out of the box ready to go from a basic tuning perspective. This is really a turn off for me...
you watch enough of these videos and you will understand why they dont do that