*SHOP* (Affiliate Links) Double Rock DR2000.1: amzn.to/41csZUM Down4Sound JP23 v1.5 - lddy.no/10uwo CT Sounds CT2000.1D: amzn.to/3N46uNJ SKAR Audio RP2000.1D: amzn.to/3KGukfr KICKER CXA800.1 - amzn.to/3DZGM7Y Alpine S-A60M - amzn.to/3zNiuvj Recoil RED1200.1 - amzn.to/3XCVJUf NEW Favorite Precision Screwdriver Kit: amzn.to/3IT0G7n Subwoofer Wiring Guide: www.the12volt.com/caraudio/subwoofer-wiring-diagrams.asp *Video Index* 0:00 Intro 0:50 Unboxing 1:45 Features and Specs 3:05 Amp Dyno Tests 6:49 What's Inside? 8:06 SKAR Comparison 8:26 Pros and Cons 9:11 Final Thoughts 9:48 EXTRA Tests *TEST BENCH EQUIPMENT* SMD / D'Amore Engineering Amp Dyno: goo.gl/sJTcf7 XS Power D1400 Batteries - amzn.to/2BPFCKW XS Power PSC60 Charger - amzn.to/2CHGcfs Fluke 1000A AC/DC Clamp Meter: amzn.to/2Rw5WDA Handheld Dyno: amzn.to/2u2EgKV My Favorite Screwdriver Kit: amzn.to/2x0VzcE _DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases_
You say this is a clone of the Skar... it may well be true, but since you are unaware of who Double Rock is... I'll share that I have met with, emailed, and had lengthy conversations at CES2020 with their factory reps from China. They make a LOT of products for car audio. I have a DR amp on my shelf from the 2020 CES, and several 12" subwoofers of various surround and motor types. It might be worth considering that Skar could be manufactured by DR. I know at least one other brand for certain that is.... a very well known brand that's been around longer than Skar.
Being a repair tech, the DR amplifier has Skar beat for vibration control. I am constantly seeing shorted transformer windings. They even secured the inductors. Nice ;)
I'd spend the 170 on this if I was in the market for an amp. Handled all the tests, looks good on the outside with no whack ratings, and internals look decent. Very nice!
A lot of times you're just paying for the name. And some times it pays to buy the name. And you'll never know until somebody does the tests and comparisons. You're doing Gods work, Big D.
Sometimes the name comes with better warranty claims and customer service so it rrally depends. On an expensive amp, id rather spend even more amd get a better name brand
@@derekgardin1512 Name only important for showing off and competitions - been there and done that. But if warranty is important, get the Amazon warranty that is 2 years for $16 or 3 years for $22
@@carrickdubya4765 riiiiight... i also remember the 90s, and there were more knockoff BS puffing twice before they ran out of breath. unless by showing off you mean it actually plays consistently while you're driving so other people can hear it. you can MAKE some brilliant pieces... you can buy a lot of dog-ass level equipment that only works till they close shop.
Mr D, Skar owes you for explaining and advertising the good and the bad about their equipment. Seems like a few diehards see Skar as something disposable, but reliability over time is the money maker. Thanks bro.
I have all Skar Audio components and subs in 3 vehicles all being run off of my collection of old school Rockford Fosgate amps. I had 1 problem with the surround on my 10 month old EVL-10 in my pickup. I emailed Skar and IMMEDIATELY got a warranty email with instructions. Within 2 days, my brand new sub was on my porch from Florida. That speaks novels for the company Skar is! I will gladly stand by them!
Bro. Phoenix Gold was good. You get what you pay for. I have a lot of old school Phoenix Gold. I’d break out my M44 and M100 before I bought any of those junk amps. I don’t care how loud it is.
They had really good quality parts br and the sound quality was sent t non on the phoenix gold... old skool every time' that crossed all bridges needed to get them t be that God nw ts all about penny-pinching and n one has to try anymore and well they where good times to be alive... Point being the rnd has already been done today and you pad for that back n the day but you for sure got what you paid for and love the vid Big D. 🔉
I like at the end how you made it a point to say enough electrical. To many people just look at the wattage and not the efficiency of the amp. Great test as always my man, keep it up👍!
Yeah I agree it's often heavily overlooked in car audio even if the efficiency was good or even great a 2000 watt amp is definitely pulling enough current that there isn't really no stock systems electrical charging system is equipped to handle such a load. Shit yer talkin 200 amps possibly up to that there's nothing no charging systems that'll be putting out that, plus all the other expected loads and draws from the system
@@buckalvinpossumweight6252 Right! I'm running 1800 now on my stock system and the only reason it works is because I don't hammer on it very often. I'm planning on upgrading to a second battery. Already did the big 3 and both my amps are pretty efficient, Kenwood 6006 dsp and a jp8 wired to one ohm. Just pushing 2 12's. I watch my voltage and I've never gotten lower than 12.6 but I'd love to be running 13.8 constant .
That amp is a great performer for the money. I think if you can affordable the little extra that the name brand amps and subs cost, it is worth it. A couple reasons. 1: good customer service is worth a lot if you need it. 2: supporting the companies that are bringing these products to us need us to buy from them in order for them to stay in business and continue bringing us the products we enjoy. Save a little more and get from the company you want to stay around.
@@johnd5542 like with soundqubed old hdc subs, those where $300 for 1 12, now the hdx that replaced it is $100 more.but their recones and stuff had been really fast, and all questions i have they always answered. I turned one hdc 12 into an hdx 15 mainly due to how easy they make it for you
Good morning big d! I'm staying with jp power. Skar never let me down, however the quality and the fact that JP is super cool and will talk to you. Just picked up a Denali for a spl build!!!
Great video as always Big D. I have been out of the car audio game for a few years but your vids still pop in my feed from time to time and something like this makes me think about getting back in with something small. With finances the way they've been I haven't been able to put a system togther but this amp has my interest peaked cuz I have been debating getting a Skar or Soundqubed ~2k and maybe a decent 15 or 18 but getting one of these would free up a few bucks to put towards a slightly better sub.
Know where you're coming from, so if I may: a little trick is to go "Non big name brand" marine equipment. Because all marine audio equipment is certified, even the no name brands make marine audio on par with the big guys. I wouldn't purchase a Rockville car audio amp, but have bought a couple of their marine amps and installed for friends (each time paired with Polk DB+ marine speakers), and I can tell you the performance and sound quality was surprisingly good. Even really good. And to compensate for the no name brand intentionally run each amp at 50% on the gain so as to not "overtax" them. But that has been my secret to saving money and being able to afford aftermarket car audio for the last 25 years, while still having a decent product. Just understand the no name brand of marine amplifiers do a good job driving regular speakers, but not speakers "and" a subwoofer with the same amp. I did try that initially (6 channel amp) but just not enough power for regular speakers and a subwoofer. If you want a subwoofer, then a seperate monoblock will be needed. If you match the power (wattage) well to the speakers you can get plenty of good sound with say 50-60 watts per channel. I think some of these systems I see with thousands of watts are cool if you can afford them, but also at the same time a little "over the top" for car stereos if you are not doing competitions etc. (PS. The Polk DB+ series, are some of the best speakers you can get regardless of price (usually $100 pair for coaxial) and have purchased and can say they impress; and I've been hearing good stuff about Recoil making some good speakers for the price too these days for speakers under the $100 mark.) So good luck and hope you can get ya a nice car stereo system soon if ya already haven't. One of the biggest crimes for car manufacturers is how bad car OEM systems still are these days! (Another option if you have the time effort and "know how" is if you have a "Pull and Pay" car parts lot nearby, is to go and find a car with a quality stereo that still has speakers in it and pull them yourself. You can usually tell if speakers are gonna work or not by their appearance. And given the price charged for these "used" speakers even if one doesn't happen to work, you'd be out of more time and effort than money. Most places charge only $10-20 per speaker regardless of brand or quality. Find a Mercedes or Lexus a high end luxury vehicle that has an upgraded factory system. Just remember even with the upgraded systems OEM stereo speakers rarely exceed 30-40 watts RMS. The in-dash units though will only work by brand. Those you'll still have to pick up aftermarket that have "universal" application. ) Also 1 "good" 8" or 10" sub can be fine for a car stereo, even better sounding than two cheap subwoofers. Just make sure whatever sub you get gets down close to that magical 20 Hz frequency. And no it doesn't take an 18" inch sub to get that low. It's about the build quality of the sub and sub box that enables frequencies in the 20-30 Hz range. However, Once you go past 1 subwoofer, the price really increases on a car stereo these days regretfully. Even using a "home" stereo sub is fine as long as you have an amp that will give you the necessary power to drive it. For an 8 ohm home sub, you'll need twice the power/watts from a 4 ohm amp remember. Home audio and car audio are little different. That's why I recommend marine audio, it is built different and more durable)) take care and all the best!
Just an opinion but they must be pretty tough being they want to ban it. If it were junk it looks like skar would make a joke out of it. Thanks for sharing 👍
One of the more important specs for a sub amp is Damping Factor(DF). Do you ever state the DF for sub amps? I know there is actually no easy way to test DF for verification of manufacturer claims. Thought that I'd just mention DF as not alot of people realize the importance of DF in controlling subwoofers and I know, being an old school competitor like me, you might could make a video explaining the importance DF and other less known amp specs play in choosing a good sub amp. As you are well respected in the industry as well as with consumers, I thought that would make a great video for you to educate newer consumers not aware of such specs. Another idea for an educational video for you to produce is on the more important specs of a Sound Quality(SQ) amp such as THD and beyond. Keep up the great work and awesome videos!!! Keeping old school alive!!!
Good point I researched a lot of amps for damping factor before I bought one. My B2 audio has a damping factor 400. Most sub amps have a factor of 80 , 100, or 200
All my Tru technology Amps have a DF at 300 which is more than enough but unless you are running IB, DF really doesn't matter which is why most companies don't post it and the few that do actually post at what ohm its rated at...but old school cats are still stuck on it because it did matter back in the 90s
@BENNYBLANCO14_916 Well, at 51yo having competed back in the day in IASCA and USAC, I'm definitely what you call Old School. LoL! Yes, DF is definitely a concern if running Isobaric, but also in Folded Horns along with certain types of 6th and 8th Order...8th Order being what I'm currently working on which is why I posed the topic. I've haven't researched it, but I would imagine the DF is also critical in a T-Line setup when utilizing a small woofer(s), but I can't say definitively that being the case. Back in the day, we ran expensive Class A and Class A/B in which DF played a major factor. I wish we had these cheap $-to-watt Class D amps back then. 2000 watts in those days would cost you well into the thousands for a decent brand...of which there were VERY few. Hell, I paid in upwards of $500 for my 50 watts amps back then...Orion HCCA 225s...let alone my HCCA 250s. So, yeah, I'm definitely Old School. LoL!
I actually own a Skar RP800.1D i had purchased for my work truck to run a Sundown SA-8 V3, and as soon as you showed off this "Double Rock" amp's font on the inputs and outputs i was like hmm.... those are the exact same fonts Skar uses for their RP series amps....so im assuming both of these companies are sourcing from the same Chinese manufacturer. To be fair, I've never had an issue with that RP800 running at 1ohm on subpar electrical 😅 (its in my winter work transportation, don't judge me)
@@calvinevans8305 - not really, since it only averages about 1/10th the max power when playing music. Also, he hardly even tests or shows thermal anyway 🙄
@@calvinevans8305 - it doesn't test either of those things. Look at the Power meter in the botton left corner of the screen, see the averaged power? All amplifiers can make speakers move, there is no specific point to the test aside from adding a bit of music to the video.
I agree.. In 92 i ran a autotek 90w amp priced at $300 bucks (over 3 bucks per watt!! Smh) . Pure power though, and bridged to a 1 ohm load it pushed my 1st car system. Two 10in.subs in a truck box I got for Christmas. Never looked at the branding though..in Ajo, AZ only Good Ole Radio Shack was the only stereo joint in town, so I'm assuming they were some realistic 10s maybe. Added a Alpine tape deck, and an eq booster, all in my 77 Chevy Malibu. I had the slanted box on the back underneath my back window, where the by 9s cutout holes are. About a couple years I bumped without anyone robbing my setup. I was called big D back then, but took it begrudgingly although 6ft4, 320lbs Fit the bill regardless of how I took it! Small towns in Southern Arizona.. i got many props for my 1st installment, alot of too short, 2 live crew, and NWA fed the setup nicely.. lol miss them daze, big D wiz!!!
had 2 blow up on me I hooked one to power and it went into protect (it directly replaced another amp so I know the wiring wasn't the problem). had another one played it for about a week on low gain less than 1/4, went to turn it up slightly and the amp sparked and went into protect. definitely glad amazon does returns
What I think is interesting is that for the most part, the designs at this level are well known and bordering on generic at this point. Making them in a China obviously a big price consideration, and the choice of components (particularly in the caps) is the real variation unit to unit. At the type of power these things are putting out, you don't have to run them to the wall to get the volume you are looking for. You could probably run them about half way up and still rip your head off nicely. At the price, you can afford to keep a couple spares in inventory for quick replacement if there is failure.
I've owned 2 skar rp 2000 amps for about 3 years now. One is powering 2 American bass xfl 10 subs and the other is powering a skar vxf 12 sub. I have thoroughly put those amps through hell, including blasting hip hop songs for hours on my trip from Pennsylvania to Kentucky and I've never had an issue with them overheating, blowing up, or going into protect mode. So I can definitely vouch for their build quality and longevity. This low budget brand is pretty impressive. But I don't like the way that it's wired.
I run a ruthless 4500 and I’m super happy but I wish I would’ve known that I could strap 3 of these together and saved hella money lol. Awesome amazon joint.
Skar is like a big baby. Even Audio Legion (which was the brand Skars build house sold products under) got told to stop selling products or he would take his 40 million contract elsewhere. Funny thing is Audio Legions products were priced well and were actually better quality than Skar. The owner of Skarbage didnt like that. Now Audio Legion is opening under another name sometimd
Pretty impressive performance given the price. It's interesting to see how different amps perform under various ohm loads, in a perfect world you'd think the wattage would double every time the ohms halve. Also, curious if you've seen the post I made in the patreon community tab 👀 Fixed a friend's amp that caught fire
I went with ct sounds 2000.1d instead more efficient an doesn't get hot or warm at 1ohm. Skar is overrated an overpriced.The same build house built these amps.
Alot of this stuff happens in the oem world. If you have enough capital you can order the same amp from the same oem and rebranded it to your name. All they have to do is change just a little bit of the components used.
Perhaps, Perhaps not. That will be determined by how good the protective circuitry is on this clone. On the skar, it's quite good such that when one or two out of transistors fail, the protection circuitry is fast enough to prevent the power supply from burning down. I'd be willing to bet this clone does not have the same.
Meh, I blew 2 RP series that were running around 60% rated power (4 channel amps running my mids and highs) when I tried to warranty them they were "out of stock" then discontinued. For back ground I have a JS 320 alt and 3 agms. So voltage drop was not an issue. Swapped to Taraamps smart 3 (had SK 2500 still working) and threw the ts400/4 minis on my highs since I couldn't get my RPs replaced. The taramps been running strong for over 2 yrs now. I had a really bad experience with Skar CS, I'll never run them again.
@blake k. I figured, but if you hear of anyone else blowing up their amps (any amps really) I'll buy em! I love repairing amps and prefer to buy them so there's zero pressure to get them finished by a certain date....lol
If your looking for another micro amp to test the VIBE audio 400.1 seems really popular over here in the U.K. it’s a 400w 1 ohm tiny amp and it’s really cheap as well at about 70-80 GBP
First off, I love what you do Mr, keep up the good work! I was just wondering if you ever test the crossovers in the amps as well ? I have purchased budget amps, in the past, with crossovers that didn’t do anything.
I bought 2 last week @ $166 bucks each. I watch your video and within 24 hours they went up $40 bucks. I was going to get 2 more but now you might as well get a Skar RP-4500
They are all cookie cutters😂 Nothing like old school that had their unique heatsink and quality components. Nothing odd about the remote, it’ works basically the same (ccw to be at 0db and fully cw to be at +15db). Thanks for the vid!!
"We are different amplifiers, with different ratings, huh? We have different styles, but inside, we are same same. Same same, but different. But still same!! Konichiwa" - Dave Skylark
Skar 6x9s in the back deck of my sons civic completely warped- I asked if they would replace and they told me in was 1month past their warranty. I showed them dated pics of the install being 5months after purchase but they didnt care. Unfortunately, I had already recommended Skar to quite a few friends, family and co-workers, but I havent purchased any other skar product since...
Do you have a database of all these tested products. Would love to have an efficiency ranked list that shows the most efficient amps, so that you can squeeze the most out of your car’s stock alternator 😅
Thanks for the video. This is rather interesting. Even though it is a decent looking amp, and safe to say a copy of a Skar amplifier, that's one thing about the Chinese economy. There isn't copyright, or patent laws, so about 50% of their economy is copying other brands products. With probably half of those products made in China advertised as the "real thing". What can't be seen is if the components of the amp are the same quality as Skar. I thought Skar had most (all?) of their products manufactured in South Korea, not China, and is one of the reasons for the quality of their products, and why they became a household name in car audio so quickly. They start off with a good solid design, and then quality manufacturing in South Korea. The majority of "better" brands of car audio (Orion, D4S, Rockford Fosgate etc) are manufactured in South Korea and I think that lends to their quality and durability. However, from the video Skar is "South Korean design" but Chinese made (Future Sound of China). Which I guess means that there are some good and reliable Chinese brands out there. But there is little Skar, or any company can do when patents are violated by Chinese manufacturers. This brand Double Rock only became available in December '22, and so long term reliability is yet to be seen. Whereas everyone who knows car audio, knows that Skar audio has a good reputation with their products as well as their customer service. Is it worth an extra $100 for peace of mind? I guess time will tell. But it's hard to fault people trying to save some bucks while upgrading their car stereo, because let's face it after market car stereo is expensive. Plain and simple. Being on par what people will spend on a home stereo system (that generally has much larger speakers). Especially when so much of it is manufactured in China. And OEM car stereos, even today after all these years still suck! That's the biggest crime of all. Just look at the new "fad" of touch screen car stereo units. What does a touch screen do for better audio fidelity? It's bling and nothing else!
Im just saying, it turns the right way whether it's upside down or not. Max is on the left if it's upside down. For it to spin backwards you'd have to face it away from you which i can't make a case for.
Get the Soundqubed S1-2250.1 I have 2 of them strapped at 1ohms half ohms per amp and it handles. I also once had them strapped to half ohms .25ohms per amp and it also handles!! I got 2 18" Resilient Sounds Platinum subwoofers ✔️it out.
i screwed up and bought a skar sub and amp kit. it included a 12 inch sub in enclosure dual 2ohm and was rated for 400 watts. the amp was 350rms at 1 ohm. the amp had something inside rattling around. they sent a new amp. it worked for about a week. the sub started rattling. blew a few days later. they sent a new sub and it was completely locked up. obviously a pre own but skar claimed it was new. yeah so no more skar junk for me
Not a Skar fan, but installer/user error is usually the problem with these brands. Inconsistent wiring from amp to sub. Had to clean up ‘professional’ installation a couple times.
Love your content just socks everything you put up a video like this the amp listed is gone instantly or they have jacked up the price thank for your work
Dude, the knob turns the same direction no matter if it’s right or upside down. And if I’ve seen knobs printed this way (I have), I would think you have too. Regardless, it still turns the same direction 99% of all knobs.
I doubt any of these amps will still be going strong in 20-30 years like the old Rockford, Soundstream, PPI and CC the like. Amps that are built to last are not cheap and never have been.
I just tried to check current price and availability of the 2k, they have removed that model of the Double Rock amp. They only have up to the 1500 watt model now.
This is a classic type 4 class D output topology as described by Perry Babin. The output drive wave on both high-side and low-side leaves a lot to be desired compared to other topologies and consequently this topology is prone to blowing its 640n output transistors. Thankfully in the scar the protection circuitry is fast enough to save the power supply from burning down when this happens. Time will tell if this clone has the same protection circuitry or not. There has also been times where the output filter transformers have shorted out also taking out a few mosfets as well
@Henry Taverner not necessarily. The components themselves may be different, also the design isnt an exact match. If this company decided to skimp on some of the protection circuitry to save cash, that would be a big problem for the end user that may want to cheaply repair said amp. As said Skars almost never take out the power supply due to having such good protection circuitry. This makes repairing them pretty darn easy and viable option (cost wise) for the end user. But if a small failure of the output fets isn't caught in time, the power supply will also burn up and that'll cost way too much to be worth repairing for the end user.
@@steve390gold how long ago did you get it because I've been looking at his amplifier tutorial off and on for several years maybe three or four five years. Now recently I definitely decided to move forward to get it although I've been looking at his website and I noticed a lot of his sister sites go to gambling websites now that it seems like maybe he doesn't have the funds to fund some of the other sites that might have been like the go-karting site the air rifle sight things like that. I'm hoping that he still has his amplifier tutorial for sale I guess I can just send him an email.
Like if the parts inside are the same quality as the Skar or if there better then skar is overpriced or your paying for there warranty ! Then if you give double rock a few more months they make there money back from starting up a new company they may have just as good of a warranty as skar or better . I know there have been some fly by night company’s out there but then there have been some that started off alright then just got a fan base and there quality just proceeded to skyrocket . Get company’s that set the slandered for todays technology we’re once small back then . One day we could look back and see what of all these company’s we can say back then about . Great video Big D Wizz as always an don’t forget to turn up the bass!
I really do appreciate your videos, they helped me to gain a better understanding of the amps. I have not seen anyone tested or reviewed the deaf bonce apocalypse AAK 8000.1D amp. I sure like to know more about it if you are willing to test and review it. Thank you.
The AAK8000.1D is a great amp and does make rated power for sure but as the other guy said, you need really REALLY GOOD electrical. Higher output alternator, second battery or bank and good grounds. Use 0 gauge OFC wire only when running that much power. Id probably have at least 2 runs of 0 gauge running that level of power. Make sure your mids and highs can keep up too or itll sound like poop 💩
@@derekgardin1512 thank you for the info, I've been a basshead since the 80's and I'm grateful for all the information I found in my research during the past years growing up. I'm upgrading my system (electrical and sound)and I wanted to see the numbers on the amp. Done all the electrical so I think I'm covered 🙂 thank you once again and God bless you
Dam I wish we had access to amps like this here in Australia, and if I was to get one from America it would cost me more than the amp in postage 🤣😭, I'll have too stick with the old Kenwood for now lol none the less thankyou for another great video
Maybe the bass switch is designed this way so if you accidentally hit the knob or fiddling with it in the dark you don't hot max and blow some stuff? Or it's just the Chineseium
Incoming Criticism: 1. Both amps use big beefy copper cable. But I know from experience that kind of cable will corrode sooner rather than later.. There is tin coated copper cable available that is far more resistant to corrosion. (NOT copper coated aluminum - which should be outlawed as an abomination) 2. You noticed the skar audio amp is cabled more neatly. That keeps the cables away from heat sources, and with it's low efficiency (for class D) it's going to produce a lot of heat. And that kind of cable insulator melts easily. 3. Putting caps that close to heat radiators is essentially a self destruct mechanism. 4. SamYoung caps from China are bottom of the barrel bad. SY caps from Korea are also cheap, but much better than the ones that come out of China. If you want your amp to last, they should be replaced by good reputable caps with a higher voltage rating - and probably a higher temperature rating, considering their proximity to heat sources. See #3. All upgrades should be less than $40. Well worth doing.
Would you ever be willing to 12-13v tests? 90% of those with subs don't have the proper electrical and are running 2k amps and subs with a cap to "fix" dimming lights. Maybe like the ending segment?
Turning something clockwise to raise volume when right side-up is still clockwise to raise when upside down (& visa-versa)… I think your issue was with how it was printed, or how the knob was marked, idk.
love to see more competition in car stereo sales but will hurt your feelings as a consumer knowing that if DR can sell them at this price that surely skar as big of retailer they are are buying them even cheaper than DR and just taking advantage of the poor consumers like us!
I was wondering if you might do the efficiency maths for us on the uncertified runs too. I'm usually curious about the differences in running at certified power vs pushing it to clipping. Not sure how it affects things really, but it might be useful for people with stock electric systems and stuff like that. Sometimes I will go and do the math myself but it takes me a while, lol.
I think I would still go with the skar audio rp2000 for the warranty and support that you get an let's be honest it's only what 50$ more an you get a 2 year warranty and there support if u have any issues
I'm not sure why, and yes I'm puffin herb in the a.m., but my eyes saw BOSS styled lettering on this amp so thought to ask. What ever happened to Boss audio? Just curious, other than that, this amp was cool. It makes up power in other areas where that 1459(1500)watt part was rather "eh."
I have repaired alot of Amplifiers with the same circuit board like other Amplifier sometimes the brand name is the only difference because alot of brands are using the same company to make there Amplifiers 👍 👍 🙏
Hi i just have a question when you explain the wiring for 4, 2 and 1 ohms i noticed you said ethier you can do a single dual sub in parallel or 2 dual in series "parallel " so my questios is is there a difference between to dual subs wired in series and/or wired in series parallel?
I bought a new xtr2500.1 and it's amazing I have it ran at .8 I was worried about it so I bought a jp23 v2 because I know it will run at lower ohm loads but the Orion turned down spanks the jp23 what r your thoughts running 4 8" vfl subs in ported box
I bought this amp, had it for a little over a month before I began to have issues. I contacted amazon, they put me in contact with the manufacturer they refused to replace it and sent me back to Amazon and Amazon will only offer partial refund after I return the amp
I have the 1500, it's been fine so far. I'm curious what kind of problems you had. I only have the input level up about 1/3rd the way though. I got it on 2 kickers rated at 300 watts and they're banging hard.
@drewjohnson4794 sorry for the late reply I just saw this, the problem I had was the amp it started to make a loud pop through the speakers, when powered on........I did contact the company they asked for a video of what was going and sent me out a new one
*SHOP* (Affiliate Links)
Double Rock DR2000.1: amzn.to/41csZUM
Down4Sound JP23 v1.5 - lddy.no/10uwo
CT Sounds CT2000.1D: amzn.to/3N46uNJ
SKAR Audio RP2000.1D: amzn.to/3KGukfr
KICKER CXA800.1 - amzn.to/3DZGM7Y
Alpine S-A60M - amzn.to/3zNiuvj
Recoil RED1200.1 - amzn.to/3XCVJUf
NEW Favorite Precision Screwdriver Kit: amzn.to/3IT0G7n
Subwoofer Wiring Guide: www.the12volt.com/caraudio/subwoofer-wiring-diagrams.asp
*Video Index*
0:00 Intro
0:50 Unboxing
1:45 Features and Specs
3:05 Amp Dyno Tests
6:49 What's Inside?
8:06 SKAR Comparison
8:26 Pros and Cons
9:11 Final Thoughts
9:48 EXTRA Tests
*TEST BENCH EQUIPMENT*
SMD / D'Amore Engineering Amp Dyno: goo.gl/sJTcf7
XS Power D1400 Batteries - amzn.to/2BPFCKW
XS Power PSC60 Charger - amzn.to/2CHGcfs
Fluke 1000A AC/DC Clamp Meter: amzn.to/2Rw5WDA
Handheld Dyno: amzn.to/2u2EgKV
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Have I already seen this vid before you loaded this🤔😁Yes!😮 guess you reloaded this?
How about those Slapz Audio Amplifer
Also looks a whole lot like my CAB-2K
What d rocc 2k? Must be sold out.
You say this is a clone of the Skar... it may well be true, but since you are unaware of who Double Rock is... I'll share that I have met with, emailed, and had lengthy conversations at CES2020 with their factory reps from China. They make a LOT of products for car audio. I have a DR amp on my shelf from the 2020 CES, and several 12" subwoofers of various surround and motor types. It might be worth considering that Skar could be manufactured by DR. I know at least one other brand for certain that is.... a very well known brand that's been around longer than Skar.
Being a repair tech, the DR amplifier has Skar beat for vibration control. I am constantly seeing shorted transformer windings. They even secured the inductors. Nice ;)
I forgot to mention the extra glue used on the DR
Hey do you repair ads amps?
I'd spend the 170 on this if I was in the market for an amp. Handled all the tests, looks good on the outside with no whack ratings, and internals look decent. Very nice!
@@jamms992 I have repaired a few ADS Power Plates in the past but I do not repair them as standard business due to the modules.
@@zackbalins658 I agree 100%
A lot of times you're just paying for the name. And some times it pays to buy the name. And you'll never know until somebody does the tests and comparisons.
You're doing Gods work, Big D.
Sometimes the name comes with better warranty claims and customer service so it rrally depends. On an expensive amp, id rather spend even more amd get a better name brand
@@derekgardin1512 Name only important for showing off and competitions - been there and done that. But if warranty is important, get the Amazon warranty that is 2 years for $16 or 3 years for $22
The best way it could've been said!
@@carrickdubya4765 riiiiight... i also remember the 90s, and there were more knockoff BS puffing twice before they ran out of breath.
unless by showing off you mean it actually plays consistently while you're driving so other people can hear it. you can MAKE some brilliant pieces... you can buy a lot of dog-ass level equipment that only works till they close shop.
You're right. I remember back in the day, some Pyramid amps were made by Precision Power.
Mr D, Skar owes you for explaining and advertising the good and the bad about their equipment. Seems like a few diehards see Skar as something disposable, but reliability over time is the money maker. Thanks bro.
I have all Skar Audio components and subs in 3 vehicles all being run off of my collection of old school Rockford Fosgate amps. I had 1 problem with the surround on my 10 month old EVL-10 in my pickup. I emailed Skar and IMMEDIATELY got a warranty email with instructions. Within 2 days, my brand new sub was on my porch from Florida. That speaks novels for the company Skar is! I will gladly stand by them!
You know what’s crazy I used to spend roughly 700.00 per amp and didn’t even get 1/4 of the power. Man did phoenix gold have it good. 😂
Bro. Phoenix Gold was good. You get what you pay for. I have a lot of old school Phoenix Gold. I’d break out my M44 and M100 before I bought any of those junk amps. I don’t care how loud it is.
They were the best tho
Linear Power as well.
They had really good quality parts br and the sound quality was sent t non on the phoenix gold... old skool every time' that crossed all bridges needed to get them t be that God nw ts all about penny-pinching and n one has to try anymore and well they where good times to be alive... Point being the rnd has already been done today and you pad for that back n the day but you for sure got what you paid for and love the vid Big D. 🔉
@@AshyLarryTMyep, absolutely 💯 agree 👍
I like at the end how you made it a point to say enough electrical. To many people just look at the wattage and not the efficiency of the amp. Great test as always my man, keep it up👍!
Yep agreed, I sell Teampie amps and I have to stress that with the 5500 and 7500. Most people buying them know better but there's always someone.
I also like how Big D explains basic speaker wiring and Ohm load during the tests. This is new. 👍🏻👍🏻
Definitely a handy thing to show!
Yeah I agree it's often heavily overlooked in car audio even if the efficiency was good or even great a 2000 watt amp is definitely pulling enough current that there isn't really no stock systems electrical charging system is equipped to handle such a load. Shit yer talkin 200 amps possibly up to that there's nothing no charging systems that'll be putting out that, plus all the other expected loads and draws from the system
@@buckalvinpossumweight6252 Right! I'm running 1800 now on my stock system and the only reason it works is because I don't hammer on it very often. I'm planning on upgrading to a second battery. Already did the big 3 and both my amps are pretty efficient, Kenwood 6006 dsp and a jp8 wired to one ohm. Just pushing 2 12's. I watch my voltage and I've never gotten lower than 12.6 but I'd love to be running 13.8 constant .
That amp is a great performer for the money. I think if you can affordable the little extra that the name brand amps and subs cost, it is worth it. A couple reasons. 1: good customer service is worth a lot if you need it. 2: supporting the companies that are bringing these products to us need us to buy from them in order for them to stay in business and continue bringing us the products we enjoy. Save a little more and get from the company you want to stay around.
100% agree. But on the flip side, some of these companies start getting recognition, then they jack their pricing up after they build their "brand".
@@johnd5542 like with soundqubed old hdc subs, those where $300 for 1 12, now the hdx that replaced it is $100 more.but their recones and stuff had been really fast, and all questions i have they always answered. I turned one hdc 12 into an hdx 15 mainly due to how easy they make it for you
lol, NEVER!
Good morning big d! I'm staying with jp power. Skar never let me down, however the quality and the fact that JP is super cool and will talk to you. Just picked up a Denali for a spl build!!!
Denali what? Denali isn't a vehicle, its a trim level.
Great video as always Big D. I have been out of the car audio game for a few years but your vids still pop in my feed from time to time and something like this makes me think about getting back in with something small. With finances the way they've been I haven't been able to put a system togther but this amp has my interest peaked cuz I have been debating getting a Skar or Soundqubed ~2k and maybe a decent 15 or 18 but getting one of these would free up a few bucks to put towards a slightly better sub.
Know where you're coming from, so if I may: a little trick is to go "Non big name brand" marine equipment. Because all marine audio equipment is certified, even the no name brands make marine audio on par with the big guys. I wouldn't purchase a Rockville car audio amp, but have bought a couple of their marine amps and installed for friends (each time paired with Polk DB+ marine speakers), and I can tell you the performance and sound quality was surprisingly good. Even really good. And to compensate for the no name brand intentionally run each amp at 50% on the gain so as to not "overtax" them. But that has been my secret to saving money and being able to afford aftermarket car audio for the last 25 years, while still having a decent product. Just understand the no name brand of marine amplifiers do a good job driving regular speakers, but not speakers "and" a subwoofer with the same amp. I did try that initially (6 channel amp) but just not enough power for regular speakers and a subwoofer. If you want a subwoofer, then a seperate monoblock will be needed. If you match the power (wattage) well to the speakers you can get plenty of good sound with say 50-60 watts per channel. I think some of these systems I see with thousands of watts are cool if you can afford them, but also at the same time a little "over the top" for car stereos if you are not doing competitions etc. (PS. The Polk DB+ series, are some of the best speakers you can get regardless of price (usually $100 pair for coaxial) and have purchased and can say they impress; and I've been hearing good stuff about Recoil making some good speakers for the price too these days for speakers under the $100 mark.) So good luck and hope you can get ya a nice car stereo system soon if ya already haven't. One of the biggest crimes for car manufacturers is how bad car OEM systems still are these days! (Another option if you have the time effort and "know how" is if you have a "Pull and Pay" car parts lot nearby, is to go and find a car with a quality stereo that still has speakers in it and pull them yourself. You can usually tell if speakers are gonna work or not by their appearance. And given the price charged for these "used" speakers even if one doesn't happen to work, you'd be out of more time and effort than money. Most places charge only $10-20 per speaker regardless of brand or quality. Find a Mercedes or Lexus a high end luxury vehicle that has an upgraded factory system. Just remember even with the upgraded systems OEM stereo speakers rarely exceed 30-40 watts RMS. The in-dash units though will only work by brand. Those you'll still have to pick up aftermarket that have "universal" application. ) Also 1 "good" 8" or 10" sub can be fine for a car stereo, even better sounding than two cheap subwoofers. Just make sure whatever sub you get gets down close to that magical 20 Hz frequency. And no it doesn't take an 18" inch sub to get that low. It's about the build quality of the sub and sub box that enables frequencies in the 20-30 Hz range. However, Once you go past 1 subwoofer, the price really increases on a car stereo these days regretfully. Even using a "home" stereo sub is fine as long as you have an amp that will give you the necessary power to drive it. For an 8 ohm home sub, you'll need twice the power/watts from a 4 ohm amp remember. Home audio and car audio are little different. That's why I recommend marine audio, it is built different and more durable)) take care and all the best!
@@johannjohann6523 Well said yo !! 🙏😇👌
Just an opinion but they must be pretty tough being they want to ban it.
If it were junk it looks like skar would make a joke out of it.
Thanks for sharing 👍
One of the more important specs for a sub amp is Damping Factor(DF). Do you ever state the DF for sub amps? I know there is actually no easy way to test DF for verification of manufacturer claims.
Thought that I'd just mention DF as not alot of people realize the importance of DF in controlling subwoofers and I know, being an old school competitor like me, you might could make a video explaining the importance DF and other less known amp specs play in choosing a good sub amp. As you are well respected in the industry as well as with consumers, I thought that would make a great video for you to educate newer consumers not aware of such specs.
Another idea for an educational video for you to produce is on the more important specs of a Sound Quality(SQ) amp such as THD and beyond.
Keep up the great work and awesome videos!!! Keeping old school alive!!!
Become a paid subscriber to help him pay for an audio precision.
I'd definitely would like to see a damping factor video from Big D.
Good point I researched a lot of amps for damping factor before I bought one. My B2 audio has a damping factor 400. Most sub amps have a factor of 80 , 100, or 200
All my Tru technology Amps have a DF at 300 which is more than enough but unless you are running IB, DF really doesn't matter which is why most companies don't post it and the few that do actually post at what ohm its rated at...but old school cats are still stuck on it because it did matter back in the 90s
@BENNYBLANCO14_916 Well, at 51yo having competed back in the day in IASCA and USAC, I'm definitely what you call Old School. LoL! Yes, DF is definitely a concern if running Isobaric, but also in Folded Horns along with certain types of 6th and 8th Order...8th Order being what I'm currently working on which is why I posed the topic. I've haven't researched it, but I would imagine the DF is also critical in a T-Line setup when utilizing a small woofer(s), but I can't say definitively that being the case.
Back in the day, we ran expensive Class A and Class A/B in which DF played a major factor. I wish we had these cheap $-to-watt Class D amps back then. 2000 watts in those days would cost you well into the thousands for a decent brand...of which there were VERY few. Hell, I paid in upwards of $500 for my 50 watts amps back then...Orion HCCA 225s...let alone my HCCA 250s.
So, yeah, I'm definitely Old School. LoL!
I actually own a Skar RP800.1D i had purchased for my work truck to run a Sundown SA-8 V3, and as soon as you showed off this "Double Rock" amp's font on the inputs and outputs i was like hmm.... those are the exact same fonts Skar uses for their RP series amps....so im assuming both of these companies are sourcing from the same Chinese manufacturer.
To be fair, I've never had an issue with that RP800 running at 1ohm on subpar electrical 😅 (its in my winter work transportation, don't judge me)
How nice is Allen for always giving you his keys.
He shares well wif me
Do it bump doe? Hook it up to the quad box and run some current through it for a while. I like that test.
It's boring. They ALL sound exactly the same. He doesn't even use a SPL meter to compare.
@@johncoops6897 it's also an endurance test to check the thermals.
@@calvinevans8305 - not really, since it only averages about 1/10th the max power when playing music. Also, he hardly even tests or shows thermal anyway 🙄
@@johncoops6897 it's a good practical test demonstrating performance and cooling efficiency.
@@calvinevans8305 - it doesn't test either of those things. Look at the Power meter in the botton left corner of the screen, see the averaged power?
All amplifiers can make speakers move, there is no specific point to the test aside from adding a bit of music to the video.
Considering in 1989 it was about $2.50 a watt this is crazy Big D. Lol
I agree.. In 92 i ran a autotek 90w amp priced at $300 bucks (over 3 bucks per watt!! Smh) . Pure power though, and bridged to a 1 ohm load it pushed my 1st car system. Two 10in.subs in a truck box I got for Christmas. Never looked at the branding though..in Ajo, AZ only Good Ole Radio Shack was the only stereo joint in town, so I'm assuming they were some realistic 10s maybe. Added a Alpine tape deck, and an eq booster, all in my 77 Chevy Malibu. I had the slanted box on the back underneath my back window, where the by 9s cutout holes are. About a couple years I bumped without anyone robbing my setup. I was called big D back then, but took it begrudgingly although 6ft4, 320lbs Fit the bill regardless of how I took it! Small towns in Southern Arizona.. i got many props for my 1st installment, alot of too short, 2 live crew, and NWA fed the setup nicely.. lol miss them daze, big D wiz!!!
Dude your Amazon browsing history must be wild!
had 2 blow up on me I hooked one to power and it went into protect (it directly replaced another amp so I know the wiring wasn't the problem). had another one played it for about a week on low gain less than 1/4, went to turn it up slightly and the amp sparked and went into protect. definitely glad amazon does returns
What I think is interesting is that for the most part, the designs at this level are well known and bordering on generic at this point. Making them in a China obviously a big price consideration, and the choice of components (particularly in the caps) is the real variation unit to unit. At the type of power these things are putting out, you don't have to run them to the wall to get the volume you are looking for. You could probably run them about half way up and still rip your head off nicely. At the price, you can afford to keep a couple spares in inventory for quick replacement if there is failure.
I've owned 2 skar rp 2000 amps for about 3 years now. One is powering 2 American bass xfl 10 subs and the other is powering a skar vxf 12 sub. I have thoroughly put those amps through hell, including blasting hip hop songs for hours on my trip from Pennsylvania to Kentucky and I've never had an issue with them overheating, blowing up, or going into protect mode. So I can definitely vouch for their build quality and longevity. This low budget brand is pretty impressive. But I don't like the way that it's wired.
Scissors, paper, double rock. Good review.
Awesome! I watched till the end this time 😃. 3,300 watts @ 0.8 ohms (275 amps). Yikes. Thin/cheap battery wires will melt. Maybe 4/0 welding cable?
3/0 = 000 will be fine
I run a ruthless 4500 and I’m super happy but I wish I would’ve known that I could strap 3 of these together and saved hella money lol. Awesome amazon joint.
Love the show.Veru informative for us who dont know .So what's the best in value and performance. ?
I believe it’s the D4S amplifiers. Shop4Bass.com
Thanks for replying. Imagine grab some merch!
Amazing time to be a car audio enthusiast, cheap solid competition is all good for the customers
It's nice but I like my 2300rms watt S1-2250.1 amp better. Do a vid on the S1-2250.1 like the one I have.
Thanks for the suggestion
Skar is like a big baby. Even Audio Legion (which was the brand Skars build house sold products under) got told to stop selling products or he would take his 40 million contract elsewhere. Funny thing is Audio Legions products were priced well and were actually better quality than Skar. The owner of Skarbage didnt like that. Now Audio Legion is opening under another name sometimd
Pretty impressive performance given the price. It's interesting to see how different amps perform under various ohm loads, in a perfect world you'd think the wattage would double every time the ohms halve.
Also, curious if you've seen the post I made in the patreon community tab 👀
Fixed a friend's amp that caught fire
i find u everywhere uwu
@@rayproductionsbackupchanne3862 That is because I am everywhere.
Today is April 17, 2023. I searched right after for the DR-2000.1 and it is NOT displayed! I was going to buy one one the spot! 👍🏾
They were low stock when I posted
@@wal Yes sir! Thank you!
I went with ct sounds 2000.1d instead more efficient an doesn't get hot or warm at 1ohm. Skar is overrated an overpriced.The same build house built these amps.
Skar is overpriced?! Wow.
Alot of this stuff happens in the oem world. If you have enough capital you can order the same amp from the same oem and rebranded it to your name. All they have to do is change just a little bit of the components used.
Looks like skar might be overpriced.
Perhaps, Perhaps not. That will be determined by how good the protective circuitry is on this clone. On the skar, it's quite good such that when one or two out of transistors fail, the protection circuitry is fast enough to prevent the power supply from burning down. I'd be willing to bet this clone does not have the same.
Meh, I blew 2 RP series that were running around 60% rated power (4 channel amps running my mids and highs) when I tried to warranty them they were "out of stock" then discontinued. For back ground I have a JS 320 alt and 3 agms. So voltage drop was not an issue. Swapped to Taraamps smart 3 (had SK 2500 still working) and threw the ts400/4 minis on my highs since I couldn't get my RPs replaced. The taramps been running strong for over 2 yrs now. I had a really bad experience with Skar CS, I'll never run them again.
@@Blakek. I'll buy the blown skars if you want to sell
@@steve390gold they went straight in the trash the second warranty wasn't honored.
@blake k. I figured, but if you hear of anyone else blowing up their amps (any amps really) I'll buy em!
I love repairing amps and prefer to buy them so there's zero pressure to get them finished by a certain date....lol
Everytime I watch a sound off spl video, it seems like all I see is Skar. Let’s do something different people! 💯👍👍
If your looking for another micro amp to test the VIBE audio 400.1 seems really popular over here in the U.K. it’s a 400w 1 ohm tiny amp and it’s really cheap as well at about 70-80 GBP
Thanks for the suggestion
First off, I love what you do Mr, keep up the good work!
I was just wondering if you ever test the crossovers in the amps as well ? I have purchased budget amps, in the past, with crossovers that didn’t do anything.
I bought 2 last week @ $166 bucks each. I watch your video and within 24 hours they went up $40 bucks. I was going to get 2 more but now you might as well get a Skar RP-4500
They are all cookie cutters😂 Nothing like old school that had their unique heatsink and quality components. Nothing odd about the remote, it’ works basically the same (ccw to be at 0db and fully cw to be at +15db). Thanks for the vid!!
Nothing odd about the text being upside down.
Did you notice the sticker? "Qualifed Certificate" Not sure that really means much lol
i saw a sticker just like that on "your moms" bra!!😂😂😂🎉🎉❤🎉❤🎉❤ sorry bro!! just joking! you walked right into it!!
Won't ever buy from Skar again lasted about a month and took a crap on me
"We are different amplifiers, with different ratings, huh? We have different styles, but inside, we are same same. Same same, but different. But still same!! Konichiwa"
- Dave Skylark
Big D! Back with the choppin' block!
Anyone ever try to claim on the Skar warranty after using the product for ~8 months? Pshhhh. Might as well not have a warranty either.
Skar 6x9s in the back deck of my sons civic completely warped- I asked if they would replace and they told me in was 1month past their warranty. I showed them dated pics of the install being 5months after purchase but they didnt care. Unfortunately, I had already recommended Skar to quite a few friends, family and co-workers, but I havent purchased any other skar product since...
Speaking of Skar clones, anyone know anything about stinger audio subs and amps? They're certainly priced to compete with Skar audio.
Excellent video as always. Wonder if their customer service is better. Not a high bar of expectations there haha
I’ve blown all my Skar stuff. Crescendo still kickin.
The DR symbol on this amp reminds me of the Coustic Design Reference logo
Agree
Do you have a database of all these tested products. Would love to have an efficiency ranked list that shows the most efficient amps, so that you can squeeze the most out of your car’s stock alternator 😅
Thanks for the video. This is rather interesting. Even though it is a decent looking amp, and safe to say a copy of a Skar amplifier, that's one thing about the Chinese economy. There isn't copyright, or patent laws, so about 50% of their economy is copying other brands products. With probably half of those products made in China advertised as the "real thing". What can't be seen is if the components of the amp are the same quality as Skar. I thought Skar had most (all?) of their products manufactured in South Korea, not China, and is one of the reasons for the quality of their products, and why they became a household name in car audio so quickly. They start off with a good solid design, and then quality manufacturing in South Korea. The majority of "better" brands of car audio (Orion, D4S, Rockford Fosgate etc) are manufactured in South Korea and I think that lends to their quality and durability. However, from the video Skar is "South Korean design" but Chinese made (Future Sound of China). Which I guess means that there are some good and reliable Chinese brands out there. But there is little Skar, or any company can do when patents are violated by Chinese manufacturers. This brand Double Rock only became available in December '22, and so long term reliability is yet to be seen. Whereas everyone who knows car audio, knows that Skar audio has a good reputation with their products as well as their customer service. Is it worth an extra $100 for peace of mind? I guess time will tell. But it's hard to fault people trying to save some bucks while upgrading their car stereo, because let's face it after market car stereo is expensive. Plain and simple. Being on par what people will spend on a home stereo system (that generally has much larger speakers). Especially when so much of it is manufactured in China. And OEM car stereos, even today after all these years still suck! That's the biggest crime of all. Just look at the new "fad" of touch screen car stereo units. What does a touch screen do for better audio fidelity? It's bling and nothing else!
With clone amps like these you should show inside thermals and temps
Denali what? Denali is an interior and exterior trim level not a vehicle.
Im just saying, it turns the right way whether it's upside down or not. Max is on the left if it's upside down. For it to spin backwards you'd have to face it away from you which i can't make a case for.
There are two amplifiers that i've been searching on the internet for the nemesis aubio dyno and b drive wdx amplifier dyno
Get the Soundqubed S1-2250.1 I have 2 of them strapped at 1ohms half ohms per amp and it handles. I also once had them strapped to half ohms .25ohms per amp and it also handles!! I got 2 18" Resilient Sounds Platinum subwoofers ✔️it out.
i screwed up and bought a skar sub and amp kit. it included a 12 inch sub in enclosure dual 2ohm and was rated for 400 watts. the amp was 350rms at 1 ohm. the amp had something inside rattling around. they sent a new amp. it worked for about a week. the sub started rattling. blew a few days later. they sent a new sub and it was completely locked up. obviously a pre own but skar claimed it was new. yeah so no more skar junk for me
thanks, I was really curious how this did on the dyno.
It did good.
Hey big D. Have you made any videos on B2 audio amplifiers. Specifically the B2 riot 7500
Thanks for the suggestion
41 watts is within margin of error. These are accurately rated in my opinion. I bet Skar is really salty about these amps at this price.
From what I've seen a lot of people have had problems with scars RP line of amps
Not a Skar fan, but installer/user error is usually the problem with these brands. Inconsistent wiring from amp to sub. Had to clean up ‘professional’ installation a couple times.
They are all made at the same shit house, so name means absolutely nothing at end of day.
Love your content just socks everything you put up a video like this the amp listed is gone instantly or they have jacked up the price thank for your work
Yeah man bummer!
Coming from how Skar was created they really have no room to complain about a company doing this to them.
I was thinking the same thing
Dude, the knob turns the same direction no matter if it’s right or upside down. And if I’ve seen knobs printed this way (I have), I would think you have too. Regardless, it still turns the same direction 99% of all knobs.
It’s the silk screening done wrong
Where are the refurbs?? 😅
Did it go into protect mode at .8 and did you check it at anything lower like .67?
I doubt any of these amps will still be going strong in 20-30 years like the old Rockford, Soundstream, PPI and CC the like. Amps that are built to last are not cheap and never have been.
Not necessarily my dad still has his old Sony amp from 10+ years ago
Nothing beats taramps rn.
I just tried to check current price and availability of the 2k, they have removed that model of the Double Rock amp. They only have up to the 1500 watt model now.
This is a classic type 4 class D output topology as described by Perry Babin. The output drive wave on both high-side and low-side leaves a lot to be desired compared to other topologies and consequently this topology is prone to blowing its 640n output transistors. Thankfully in the scar the protection circuitry is fast enough to save the power supply from burning down when this happens. Time will tell if this clone has the same protection circuitry or not.
There has also been times where the output filter transformers have shorted out also taking out a few mosfets as well
D said the components came from the same factory that manufactures for Skar. So you're getting same components but paying a lot less
@Henry Taverner not necessarily. The components themselves may be different, also the design isnt an exact match. If this company decided to skimp on some of the protection circuitry to save cash, that would be a big problem for the end user that may want to cheaply repair said amp.
As said Skars almost never take out the power supply due to having such good protection circuitry. This makes repairing them pretty darn easy and viable option (cost wise) for the end user.
But if a small failure of the output fets isn't caught in time, the power supply will also burn up and that'll cost way too much to be worth repairing for the end user.
Did you get Perry babin's amplifier repair tutorial?
@Buck Alvin Possumweight yes I did and it is worth every penny!! Honestly it's worth 10x what he charges.
@@steve390gold how long ago did you get it because I've been looking at his amplifier tutorial off and on for several years maybe three or four five years. Now recently I definitely decided to move forward to get it although I've been looking at his website and I noticed a lot of his sister sites go to gambling websites now that it seems like maybe he doesn't have the funds to fund some of the other sites that might have been like the go-karting site the air rifle sight things like that. I'm hoping that he still has his amplifier tutorial for sale I guess I can just send him an email.
Bass knob is turning the same way, whether you turn the box upside-down or not... only the starting point is different.
Like if the parts inside are the same quality as the Skar or if there better then skar is overpriced or your paying for there warranty ! Then if you give double rock a few more months they make there money back from starting up a new company they may have just as good of a warranty as skar or better . I know there have been some fly by night company’s out there but then there have been some that started off alright then just got a fan base and there quality just proceeded to skyrocket . Get company’s that set the slandered for todays technology we’re once small back then . One day we could look back and see what of all these company’s we can say back then about . Great video Big D Wizz as always an don’t forget to turn up the bass!
This will be a great addition to my budget banger setup 😳
The bass knob isn't backwards for vehicles that are right hand drive like England
I really do appreciate your videos, they helped me to gain a better understanding of the amps. I have not seen anyone tested or reviewed the deaf bonce apocalypse AAK 8000.1D amp. I sure like to know more about it if you are willing to test and review it. Thank you.
The AAK8000.1D is a great amp and does make rated power for sure but as the other guy said, you need really REALLY GOOD electrical. Higher output alternator, second battery or bank and good grounds. Use 0 gauge OFC wire only when running that much power. Id probably have at least 2 runs of 0 gauge running that level of power. Make sure your mids and highs can keep up too or itll sound like poop 💩
Thanks for the suggestion
@@derekgardin1512 thank you for the info, I've been a basshead since the 80's and I'm grateful for all the information I found in my research during the past years growing up. I'm upgrading my system (electrical and sound)and I wanted to see the numbers on the amp. Done all the electrical so I think I'm covered 🙂 thank you once again and God bless you
How does a person find these "unknown" amps time and time again?
I think they dream it and then when they wake up theyGoogle it.. Wallaa
His job is literally just to crawl the internet looking for new amps? It's not very hard when that's your sole profession.
🤣
Dam I wish we had access to amps like this here in Australia, and if I was to get one from America it would cost me more than the amp in postage 🤣😭, I'll have too stick with the old Kenwood for now lol none the less thankyou for another great video
Kenwood, good, fire,bad!!!
Why would you get this amp from America? You're considerably closer to china than we are, why not order direct?
@@superpossum78 - the guy obviously doesn't have main electricity, let alone internet to order from overseas.
@@johncoops6897 obviously. I guess he's youtubing via smoke signal and crystal ball
If I’m upgrading electrical I’m not taking a chance on an amp with an iffy warranty. All the other brands are worth the price for their warranties.
Valid point and I agree
Double Rock I'm sure loves that you made this video. They probably ramped up production. Lol
Maybe, but I didn't do it for them...I did it for you guys
Maybe the bass switch is designed this way so if you accidentally hit the knob or fiddling with it in the dark you don't hot max and blow some stuff? Or it's just the Chineseium
The real question is will it last a year or more, given its cost.
Which is a better deal? One of these, or a taramps 3000.1 for 175? Thank you
both dogshit...no bass below 35hz!! lame, lame , lame...😢 get power acoustic 10000 for $200, beast mode to 5FN hz!!
Love this type of video! Thanks again!
i have the 1200 watt DR, im sending it back. it doesn't sound good, its ok but my ignite amp sound better and is gonna get installed again.
Incoming Criticism:
1. Both amps use big beefy copper cable. But I know from experience that kind of cable will corrode sooner rather than later.. There is tin coated copper cable available that is far more resistant to corrosion. (NOT copper coated aluminum - which should be outlawed as an abomination)
2. You noticed the skar audio amp is cabled more neatly. That keeps the cables away from heat sources, and with it's low efficiency (for class D) it's going to produce a lot of heat. And that kind of cable insulator melts easily.
3. Putting caps that close to heat radiators is essentially a self destruct mechanism.
4. SamYoung caps from China are bottom of the barrel bad. SY caps from Korea are also cheap, but much better than the ones that come out of China. If you want your amp to last, they should be replaced by good reputable caps with a higher voltage rating - and probably a higher temperature rating, considering their proximity to heat sources. See #3.
All upgrades should be less than $40. Well worth doing.
Should I buy this Double rock or the CT2000.1D
It'd be nice for a super budget build! Like for an spl show!!!
Would you ever be willing to 12-13v tests?
90% of those with subs don't have the proper electrical and are running 2k amps and subs with a cap to "fix" dimming lights.
Maybe like the ending segment?
Turning something clockwise to raise volume when right side-up is still clockwise to raise when upside down (& visa-versa)…
I think your issue was with how it was printed, or how the knob was marked, idk.
Yes most definitely
I wanna reverse engineer some old Punch amps and reintroduce them as Rocker Fizzgate amps.
love to see more competition in car stereo sales but will hurt your feelings as a consumer knowing that if DR can sell them at this price that surely skar as big of retailer they are are buying them even cheaper than DR and just taking advantage of the poor consumers like us!
I can hear my grandpa with his famous words. Sure it’ll work, but for how long 😂
I was wondering if you might do the efficiency maths for us on the uncertified runs too. I'm usually curious about the differences in running at certified power vs pushing it to clipping. Not sure how it affects things really, but it might be useful for people with stock electric systems and stuff like that. Sometimes I will go and do the math myself but it takes me a while, lol.
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I think I would still go with the skar audio rp2000 for the warranty and support that you get an let's be honest it's only what 50$ more an you get a 2 year warranty and there support if u have any issues
Man… was waiting for the fireworks 💥 😆
For the $$ you'd think so!
I'm not sure why, and yes I'm puffin herb in the a.m., but my eyes saw BOSS styled lettering on this amp so thought to ask. What ever happened to Boss audio? Just curious, other than that, this amp was cool. It makes up power in other areas where that 1459(1500)watt part was rather "eh."
I have repaired alot of Amplifiers with the same circuit board like other Amplifier sometimes the brand name is the only difference because alot of brands are using the same company to make there Amplifiers 👍 👍 🙏
Hi
I❤your content but please note that 19" is not 152mm it is 482,6😮 (so a little difference 😂 ) nice amp i really need to lookat:-)
I forgot to update 🤦♂️
What’s the efficiency on this 2000k double rock ? Tryin to figure out the setting for gain
Do these amps sound good? Or are they just for spl?
Pretty impressive. Thanks again for a wonderful video!!!
Hi i just have a question when you explain the wiring for 4, 2 and 1 ohms i noticed you said ethier you can do a single dual sub in parallel or 2 dual in series "parallel " so my questios is is there a difference between to dual subs wired in series and/or wired in series parallel?
I bought a new xtr2500.1 and it's amazing I have it ran at .8 I was worried about it so I bought a jp23 v2 because I know it will run at lower ohm loads but the Orion turned down spanks the jp23 what r your thoughts running 4 8" vfl subs in ported box
Can't wait to see the jp 45.4 amp dyno
Coming soon…
I bought this amp, had it for a little over a month before I began to have issues. I contacted amazon, they put me in contact with the manufacturer they refused to replace it and sent me back to Amazon and Amazon will only offer partial refund after I return the amp
I have the 1500, it's been fine so far. I'm curious what kind of problems you had. I only have the input level up about 1/3rd the way though. I got it on 2 kickers rated at 300 watts and they're banging hard.
@drewjohnson4794 sorry for the late reply I just saw this, the problem I had was the amp it started to make a loud pop through the speakers, when powered on........I did contact the company they asked for a video of what was going and sent me out a new one