"I'm not a professional" says Parker I believe since this video, he's now a Professional @ lot's of thing's. Watching you grow just from this video 11 months ago, to now is a big difference in a good way. Keep doing what you do best, Blessings P and stay safe. Dudes gonna be a huge accountant, probably bigger than my mother! Great guy. Stay up boiiii Almost 50k views, nice!
Always that one person who has a daily agenda, never to prosper, loves drama, perfect example of "Misery loves company!" Guessing anyone can tell which one, out of this conversation, loves stirring up some drama. Haha must be such a great lifestyle! Jesus loves you.
Awesome video. A few suggestions I will give is always run power and signal separate ,add another ground from motor to frame and attend some car audio shows so you can hang out and get awesome insight on others builds to help further your knowledge. Most importantly do what makes you happy the rest will follow.
Big 3 is a quick job once all supplies are available. My alternator and engine ground were behind my intake shroud which limited access, but still did in less than 1 hour without taking apart my engine.
Listening to this in my 13 explorer sportand out sounded like I have a sound system in there. It's good to hear good sound without the distortion! Keep up the great work!!
Well done Parker! These are the parts car audio that aren't all that sexy, but actually more important than all the other stuff people love to watch. Every time I do a system on my own vehicles I start with a high amperage alternator, extra agm battery in back & welding wire or ofc before I even figure out what brand equipment I'm gonna use. You can't build a mansion on mud.... also, I'm very grateful for all your subwoofer comparison vids, they've helped me decide what to install
hate to say it but if you just went from OFC 4ga to 1/0 CCA then you basically didnt gain hardly anything other than a fat run of wire . props for trying .
Dibeezy ThaGifted was literally just going to say the same thing, also recommend running that size of wire underneath the vehicle rather than inside the cab, just a safety conscious thing. Bigger wire, more heat.
Okay yall seem like the ones that can help me with what kind of charging system I need.. I'm tryna get a 3500 watt system going. By calculations I would need a 350amp alternator, just for the subs. The biggest I can get is a 250A alt... Enlighten me on this whole charging system thing...what can I do?
If it's cheap rcas for sure run it on the other side, if it's good quality wire and rcas you shouldnt have no issues. But rule of thumb is to run it on the other side
You won't get any noise feed back through a sub amp, the noise ur referring to is high frequency noise that you get from a ground loop, with a good proper ground and high quality shielded rca cable you won't have any issue running them together.. I've literally got 2 runs of 1/0 ofc ran with my 6ch of rcas, no noise what so ever.. a good proper ground is the most important part of a stereo system.. you can never have enough grounds.. the best ground would be a wire right to the negative side of the battery..
I thought he was going to mention that in the part where he says before you talk crap yes I know they are some cheap rcas...I can care less about the cheap rca you always need to run your rca away from the power wire. lol
Parker, bro!! Al I can say is I am proud of you and your vidoeo/editing skills. But good detailed vid man. Keep them coming. I know all this stuff but I watch to watch. 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
U can pick up a good alternatoe off Amazon for like 225$ u can even get a cheaper one for like 140 from a company eagle high I have used them n my Truck for years and they do pretty good, I run about ten K n my suburban
I am running 0 gauge CCA sky high I have 2 ds18 15 inch hooligans, on A sundown SCV 6K 1 CES 270 alt, and one optima yellow top I have an SMD voltage meter on the dash and a cheap stinger digital voltmeter right underneath it my voltage is steady at 13.8volts and never ever ever ever drops below 13.2 volts ever I can play my shit for hours and does not drop below 13.2 volts I just drove from Philadelphia Pennsylvania where I live to New York Brooklyn this past weekend which is a 3-hour drive no issues at all my amp gets warm not even hot to the touch warm!! Do not let these fucken idiots tell you CCA is garbage yeah it's not as good as osc no shit but unless you're putting in a monster system with like for subs plus and 234 amps plus you're fine with zero gauge CCA you don't need to waste your money and upgrade unless you're putting some monster shit n!! Keep an eye on your voltage you're a smart kid you're doing good with your videos you've come a long way I seen you in the beginning videos you've come a long way kid get yourself a nice CES, alt Mechman, singer, or even Iragi at 270 or higher if you want and another battery AGM like X's power d3400, optima yellow top and call it a day unless you're going to competition fuck what some of these idiots are saying and you know who you are to!!! I can't stand when people act like they know what they're talkin about and don't even have this shit... I'm 40 years old I've been doing this stuff since I was 16 you do the math!! Keep up the good work Parker and the video see you on the next one!!
@@ParkerTheBasshead you just keep an eye on your voltage and as long as that doesn't drop below 12.4 volts you're okay and if your aunt does start to get hot buy one of them cheap fans on Amazon the white ones... You got any questions you post your comment towards me and I'll get back to you everybody these days thanks you have to have the best of everything to do okay that shit ain't true kid!!!
@@ParkerTheBasshead use wire ferrules at your ends also they are cheap and techflex to cover your wires... Looks amazing while protecting your wire its like 8 for 25 ft on ebey... No problems ask if you need anything
Personally wouldn’t run aluminum wire, it doesn’t let current flow like copper would(about 60%), and it gets hot because of that. I live in Texas and that’s a fire starter in the summertime
Inside the vehicle and under 5000 max? My Stinger 8. AWG splits just inside the firewall. The splitter melted plastic.. It's hard to imagine a 0 gauge wire aluminum clad or not is going to heat up under 5000 Watts and perform any worse than 4 or 8 gauge. it's just hard to believe. I guess I'll find out huh cuz I live in central California it's not exactly a Cool n´ Breezy summer here either. LOL.
It'll be fine he's running 2/0 CCA he has more then enough and CCA only catches fire if you do stupid shit. It's just as hot here if not hotter then Texas
Good suggestion. For battery your main one under the hood switch to a good agm and tgen put a group 31 agm in the. Back i prefer northstar agm batterys. Typically give me tge best for my buck
I got a bosch agm discounted for $150 at pepboys, have never used a northstar or .ca, but the bosch is pretty good for budget. :) i really want the North star batteries that are long and slim for tight spots in the back of a car.
Hey my friend your system looks like it is really starting to come around. I'm glad because you seem to really enjoy the process. If you experience any engine noise put your rca's away from your power cable. It would also greatly benefit your system if at a later date you go full copper wire.
Run your rca opposite of power, you can turn that sub up a bit louder too. It'll handle a lot. Other than that it looks great. Wiring was done right and looks organized.
Great video, I'm glad to see you learning, I'm sure everyone will tell u everything your doing wrong.. you learn from trial and error the best.. I'd stash up on sum ofc wire and your voltage will increase
Appreciate it man! Actually picked up some OFC the other day from a buddy. Will put it in when I get some time but for now what I have is an upgrade over the 4 gauge so I’m happy with it
Good job. You're definitely on the right path to self teaching. A lot of reading is how I taught myself about car audio.👍 And doing eventually lead me to have my own business in the 90s. Good luck on your journey.
Amazon has Orion xtr ofc 0awg for $70. Fot the price you paid for that Rockville you should have gotten an American bass hd 15. You live and learn keep it up 👍
By the way, you never run wire under the car, through the fender, outside of the car, or through the door well (not door jamb, that's preferrered) because at these places the wire can either get hit with with debris or slowly rip the insulation causing a short. The best idea is to either use an existing grommet, or to make a grommet yourself at last resort. To do this, you use an open spot in the foot well and use a punch, that way you can make sure the area is open on either side of the firewall. You don't wanna drill in a brake booster 😬. After this you sand the circle you cut and put some rubber, a new vacuum line with some RTV would probably work fine and then you have a solid grommet
Hey Parker qiuck little way to rig that shot strut is a pair of small vise grips clip it on to the shaft right above cylinder. Stick works good to. Nice vids man
Ian Price struts for hood are so cheap like 10-15 bucks just buy the replacement. Should have extra money from buying the cheap CCA instead of OFC. Just buy welding cable it’s much cheaper and it’s rated for any and everything
Yes man! But I thought you had this already. Bro, I been doing this for about 5 years now. So let me know if you need tips my friend. And trust me. You can is “0 gage welding wire” you can get it at Menards for like 100 bucks. It’s better. Trust me. And longer
Honestly that's a really good set up I like it. If your putting a 2nd battery you should upgrade to a high output alternator. I love the set up it's very nice
Good shit man!! Gave me some ideas for my upgrade coming. Just bought new wire too and have the same amp on the way. Pushing 2 6.5 Memphis Mojo Minis and power flow is so key for these types of upgrades
My voltage drop is crazy with this amp got 0 gauge and big 3 upgrade..... going to do another battery and alternator later on for now I don't bass out to long
Good video bro! I have a Taramps 3k and ran it with a 4guage. I just ordered my 0 guage hoping it will feed it more power. And I like the link to the alternator you did as well as upgraded the ground for the battery. GOOD STUFF MAN!!! 🤘😎
Not a bad install, that fuse holder is pretty awesome, but I’ve always been taught, and as well as all the amplifier installation manuals I’ve ever read you’re supposed to have a fuse within 18 inches of the battery under the hood, and I know everybody’s worried about the distortion with the RCA cables, and that does happen, but also I think it has to do with quality, if you were to spend the extra pocket and upgrade to what I got, which is a T 1000 Fosgate pushing 2 fosgate T1 10’s , you wouldn’t have as many distortion issues just because of the clarity and quality that is associated with the Fosgate power series, very helpful video though bud, especially for people that are still new to car audio
Great build parker, I have the same amp you have. I haven't completed the installation yet but running 1/0 guage sky high car audio ofc cable. I will be running a single exl b12 by ds18. which subwoofer were you using during this video?
Nice vid..... only suggestion, Run your rca Jack's on one side of the vehicle and the power on the other..... with them running parallel on the same side.... you run the risk of picking up signal noise in the jacks from the voltage in the power wire, also use bolt, locking washer, flat washer then nut on underside.
Correct me if I'm wrong but if your amp is drawing 230 amps and your alternator is only capable of 160 amps I don't believe that doing a big three will not solve your problem with getting your amp enough power. You will need a new alternator if anything since that is the main power source. Doing a big three without enough power supplied may be worse for the car as you are allowing the amp to draw more power more efficiently from the alternator
If car manufacturers thought it was necessary they would have. Regulator rectifier adjusts amperage from alternator to battery. If regulator rectifier dies alternator won't charge battery. A fuse between alternator & battery is useless ( high current ) fuse between battery & amplifier is to save the amplifier.
That 75% aluminum 0 gauge you bought will only carry about 178 amps of current. You need ofc copper. Welding cable is a lot cheaper than that car audio stuff.you also need a frame ground from your battery to the frame and from your amplifier to the frame the body will carry approximately 200 amps of current. but since everything else that's running your engine is drawing off of it ,probably less. Frame ground is your best bet. Not judging just trying to help you get where you want to be in the most out of your setup. also you're going to need a better battery and a better alternator in the end for almost zero voltage drop. 250 amp ought to get it if it'll put that out at idle 250 amps at idle. because don't forget you still have to run your engine and computers and other electrical. Remember Overkill is better than not enough when you're talkin electrical current.
Great video thanks for this! Not to be a RUclips troll, I"m just saying for the health of your car (and you) The fuse needs to go as close to the battery as possible because when theres a massive surge that toasts the power cable, it's going to barbecue everything from the battery to the fuse. If there's 6 feet of wire before the fuse, that's 6 slabs of ribs......
Is your gain set conservatively or have you set it to get the most out of the amp already? Jw. Set mine by ear at first and idk if it’s my preouts are low low or what but I can go all the way on the gain and never “hear” clipping. Thinking it’s something diff about this amp than most I’ve dealt with maybe, like maybe cleaner signal being sent to subs? Idk. I subscribed to the channel couple months back, was hella excited to see you get the Rockville subs me and my bro been talking about it. I’m running 2 Skar EVL 12’s and the RP2K and love it.. but using a DMM and ohms law and all, mine seems to be only putting out about 1100 or so at 1 ohm? Idk what’s up with that but she pounds.. liking the channel and progress you are making bro
You forgot to solder your connections. Never trust a crimp as the wire will walk out over time. Crimp and solder then heat shrink with a tube with sealer.... especially with CCA wire, it's corrodes and turns to dust when any salt water ( I live in Minnesota...it snows here) comes in contact and a current is applied.
The box don’t need to be tuned lower it’s just the amp they don’t play lows for nothing i just got one for my dd 612s and I hate it wish I would have never gotten rid of my kicker will be getting a kicker cxa1800 to replace it asap
hey bro I have a question I'm trying to upgrade the same thing you did but do I also have to upgrade my RCA cables or do I just leave those in and only upgrade the power and the negative supply to 1/0?
Your rca leads should be on the opposite side to your power ground wire to avoid noise from electrical pulses and magnetic influences from the current flow if your having odd noises and sounds this is probably your culprit
I like the copper lugs you are using, that's the way to go instead of crimp style ring terminals imo. However I like to tourch the lug and fill it up about half way with a pool solder, push my wire in, hold it until it sets..... then its cock stiff, I can pull as hard as I want and it wont come out, i dont even bother crimping after that.
Love it. I got same amount and subs but I can’t seem to find that sweet spot on the amp like you did. Can you plug me with the knob settings? I’m lost on LPF and Hz settings bro
Great job brother. Really loved the install you did. You took your time to do things right and it shows. Remember fuse everything. Be safe. Keep up the great work. Also Subbed. 👍👍
I got the skar bass package the 2 12” Evl D4 with the rp2k I upgraded my battery alternator and did the big 3 for now my voltage is looking good. I was surprised on how much more punchy bass I felt like it gave me idk maybe it’s in my head lol.
Get it kid I love watching people upgrade. And actually understand why they are upgrading
"I'm not a professional" says Parker
I believe since this video, he's now a Professional @ lot's of thing's. Watching you grow just from this video 11 months ago, to now is a big difference in a good way. Keep doing what you do best, Blessings P and stay safe. Dudes gonna be a huge accountant, probably bigger than my mother! Great guy. Stay up boiiii
Almost 50k views, nice!
Yeah man I’ve learned a lot in the last year! I really appreciate you
An accountant? Lmfao. Okay?
Jihart Bladhest haha yeah my main job is accounting
@@ParkerTheBasshead on I was so confused like how do those skills translate lmao
Always that one person who has a daily agenda, never to prosper, loves drama, perfect example of
"Misery loves company!" Guessing anyone can tell which one, out of this conversation, loves stirring up some drama. Haha must be such a great lifestyle!
Jesus loves you.
Awesome video. A few suggestions I will give is always run power and signal separate ,add another ground from motor to frame and attend some car audio shows so you can hang out and get awesome insight on others builds to help further your knowledge. Most importantly do what makes you happy the rest will follow.
U made the big 3 look easier than I thought! Gonna do mine now. Thanks
Yeah man it isn’t bad at all!
Big 3 is a quick job once all supplies are available. My alternator and engine ground were behind my intake shroud which limited access, but still did in less than 1 hour without taking apart my engine.
Listening to this in my 13 explorer sportand out sounded like I have a sound system in there. It's good to hear good sound without the distortion! Keep up the great work!!
Thanks!!
@@ParkerTheBasshead hey bud truthfully did you like this amp? How was it? Pros and cons I'd greatly appreciate it
Keep up the great job on your system bud, look forward to seeing how far you go with it. Its crazy but for me its never enough lol
Good job on the install. I can see you growing on to bigger and better things.
Great video Parker 👍, I still have to do the big 3 on my truck, hopefully I get it done soon
Well done Parker! These are the parts car audio that aren't all that sexy, but actually more important than all the other stuff people love to watch. Every time I do a system on my own vehicles I start with a high amperage alternator, extra agm battery in back & welding wire or ofc before I even figure out what brand equipment I'm gonna use. You can't build a mansion on mud.... also, I'm very grateful for all your subwoofer comparison vids, they've helped me decide what to install
hate to say it but if you just went from OFC 4ga to 1/0 CCA then you basically didnt gain hardly anything other than a fat run of wire . props for trying .
Grab an AGM for under the hood and 1 more for the back. You'll be set with a 160amp alt and 2 good AGM batteries.
Dibeezy ThaGifted was literally just going to say the same thing, also recommend running that size of wire underneath the vehicle rather than inside the cab, just a safety conscious thing. Bigger wire, more heat.
@@trunkscannon Bigger wire... less heat... less resistance... less power is wasted as heat...
Okay yall seem like the ones that can help me with what kind of charging system I need..
I'm tryna get a 3500 watt system going.
By calculations I would need a 350amp alternator, just for the subs.
The biggest I can get is a 250A alt...
Enlighten me on this whole charging system thing...what can I do?
Answered myself, buy alternators.
Or get expensive batteries.
But ultimately buy more alternators / modify belt system.
Nope I'm good.
This comment aged great! He just added the second AGM
If it's cheap rcas for sure run it on the other side, if it's good quality wire and rcas you shouldnt have no issues. But rule of thumb is to run it on the other side
It don’t matter what side you run your wires on, 157 db here trust me it don’t matter
@@Mitch1732 not about DB it’s about noise
Nice Parker your slowly getting better audio since last time :D
Thumbs up for immediate honesty!
You need to run your RCA opposite of your power
You won't get any noise feed back through a sub amp, the noise ur referring to is high frequency noise that you get from a ground loop, with a good proper ground and high quality shielded rca cable you won't have any issue running them together.. I've literally got 2 runs of 1/0 ofc ran with my 6ch of rcas, no noise what so ever.. a good proper ground is the most important part of a stereo system.. you can never have enough grounds.. the best ground would be a wire right to the negative side of the battery..
Yes yes yes!! Noise noise noise!
Sub rca you don't have two. only speaker rca you got run the other side asy ou won't get any noise feed back through a sub amp
I thought he was going to mention that in the part where he says before you talk crap yes I know they are some cheap rcas...I can care less about the cheap rca you always need to run your rca away from the power wire. lol
@@Repny2dafullest813 yeah but he said right away he was new. But if ur doing the big 3/4 u should no better than to run rca next to power
Bro slashed his seat when he was installing the bolt for the ground 😂
Parker, bro!! Al I can say is I am proud of you and your vidoeo/editing skills. But good detailed vid man. Keep them coming. I know all this stuff but I watch to watch. 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
Appreciate you!
Looks good, simple suggestion. Take off the panel where you mounted your amp make a hole and route your cables behind the panel for a clean look. 👍🏾😎
U can pick up a good alternatoe off Amazon for like 225$ u can even get a cheaper one for like 140 from a company eagle high I have used them n my Truck for years and they do pretty good, I run about ten K n my suburban
Amen.... I run 6k in my dually, and purchased a 300 amp for $180...on Ebay... 3 yr warranty.
What sub do you have again? You should look into the Skar evl series or their zvx series.
Rockville Destroyer
Zvx!!
Ah,you know what your doing.I love seeing all your projects.
Killin it brother...installers like you are what people are looking for.
I am running 0 gauge CCA sky high I have 2 ds18 15 inch hooligans, on A sundown SCV 6K 1 CES 270 alt, and one optima yellow top I have an SMD voltage meter on the dash and a cheap stinger digital voltmeter right underneath it my voltage is steady at 13.8volts and never ever ever ever drops below 13.2 volts ever I can play my shit for hours and does not drop below 13.2 volts I just drove from Philadelphia Pennsylvania where I live to New York Brooklyn this past weekend which is a 3-hour drive no issues at all my amp gets warm not even hot to the touch warm!! Do not let these fucken idiots tell you CCA is garbage yeah it's not as good as osc no shit but unless you're putting in a monster system with like for subs plus and 234 amps plus you're fine with zero gauge CCA you don't need to waste your money and upgrade unless you're putting some monster shit n!! Keep an eye on your voltage you're a smart kid you're doing good with your videos you've come a long way I seen you in the beginning videos you've come a long way kid get yourself a nice CES, alt Mechman, singer, or even Iragi at 270 or higher if you want and another battery AGM like X's power d3400, optima yellow top and call it a day unless you're going to competition fuck what some of these idiots are saying and you know who you are to!!! I can't stand when people act like they know what they're talkin about and don't even have this shit... I'm 40 years old I've been doing this stuff since I was 16 you do the math!! Keep up the good work Parker and the video see you on the next one!!
Exactly!!! There is just a lot of built up hype about OFC but CCA from a quality brand is still pretty decent
@@ParkerTheBasshead you just keep an eye on your voltage and as long as that doesn't drop below 12.4 volts you're okay and if your aunt does start to get hot buy one of them cheap fans on Amazon the white ones... You got any questions you post your comment towards me and I'll get back to you everybody these days thanks you have to have the best of everything to do okay that shit ain't true kid!!!
Lowest it usually gets is 13.2 and that just when I'm pushing it, which I usually don't do. I appreciate you!@@PeterFeltersnatch852
@@ParkerTheBasshead use wire ferrules at your ends also they are cheap and techflex to cover your wires... Looks amazing while protecting your wire its like 8 for 25 ft on ebey... No problems ask if you need anything
Personally wouldn’t run aluminum wire, it doesn’t let current flow like copper would(about 60%), and it gets hot because of that. I live in Texas and that’s a fire starter in the summertime
Inside the vehicle and under 5000 max? My Stinger 8. AWG splits just inside the firewall. The splitter melted plastic.. It's hard to imagine a 0 gauge wire aluminum clad or not is going to heat up under 5000 Watts and perform any worse than 4 or 8 gauge. it's just hard to believe. I guess I'll find out huh cuz I live in central California it's not exactly a Cool n´ Breezy summer here either. LOL.
It'll be fine he's running 2/0 CCA he has more then enough and CCA only catches fire if you do stupid shit. It's just as hot here if not hotter then Texas
Good suggestion. For battery your main one under the hood switch to a good agm and tgen put a group 31 agm in the. Back i prefer northstar agm batterys. Typically give me tge best for my buck
I got a bosch agm discounted for $150 at pepboys, have never used a northstar or .ca, but the bosch is pretty good for budget. :) i really want the North star batteries that are long and slim for tight spots in the back of a car.
I think you did a wonderful job great work wonderful job man.
Great video. Great job explaining. You actually motivated me to do my own install.
Good to hear man!!
Good job man. Keep going with the electrical, and set that gain properly.
Liked the vid. Considering one of the scar amps and the big 3 😊
Awesome man! I'm digging it! I'd love to hear a demo lol. But nice, clean daily driver setup man!
Good job! Keep reading and watching videos on RUclips. Very good information in them. Like C.A.F. car audio fabrication.
Nice glad to see this video up today!
Run your rca's and remote wire on the right passenger side of the vehicle and power wire on the left drivers side.
Congrats on your new amp. I plan on buying this amp
Rockford power 1500cp is a better choice
Hey my friend your system looks like it is really starting to come around. I'm glad because you seem to really enjoy the process. If you experience any engine noise put your rca's away from your power cable. It would also greatly benefit your system if at a later date you go full copper wire.
Totally agree! I checked for engine noise and non so far. And yes OFC wire will happen in the future
First 0 gauge for the win
Run your rca opposite of power, you can turn that sub up a bit louder too. It'll handle a lot. Other than that it looks great. Wiring was done right and looks organized.
Don't forget to spray paint the underside of your ground. It will rust out fast if you don't. Great build man! *Edit* ( your amp ground)
Very Good point man!!
Love the passion!! Keep doing what you’re doing!! Props!!
Really appreciate it!!
Just remember you have to run power and the RCAs separately.
this deserves a mythbusters episode
100% true i noticed a big difference when i rewired my system
@@internetperson8146 not really. Many people know that this causes engine noise which isn't pretty and doesn't stop so this is a proven fact
What happens if you run them together ???
@@camposdavid0000 you get interference such as alternator noises coming through your speakers
If i buy the skar rp 1500.1 do i need the 0 gage wire or im fine with 4gage wire?
Awesome good work on that big 3!!
Cool video. Keep bangin. Bass heads forever.
Great video, I'm glad to see you learning, I'm sure everyone will tell u everything your doing wrong.. you learn from trial and error the best.. I'd stash up on sum ofc wire and your voltage will increase
Appreciate it man! Actually picked up some OFC the other day from a buddy. Will put it in when I get some time but for now what I have is an upgrade over the 4 gauge so I’m happy with it
SHOULD HAVE CHECKED VOLTAGE AT THE BACK OF CAR BEFORE BIG 3. I'VE ALWAYS WANTED TO KNOW!
Good job. You're definitely on the right path to self teaching. A lot of reading is how I taught myself about car audio.👍 And doing eventually lead me to have my own business in the 90s. Good luck on your journey.
Thank you so much!
Amazon has Orion xtr ofc 0awg for $70. Fot the price you paid for that Rockville you should have gotten an American bass hd 15. You live and learn keep it up 👍
Running the Orion xtr ofc 0 awg .. it's great for the price...
Except American bass is totally shit
Also you should never run power wire next to the RCA jacks
I literally was saying this. Second comment i saw.
Unless you're have hq twisted, shielded rca wires
By the way, you never run wire under the car, through the fender, outside of the car, or through the door well (not door jamb, that's preferrered) because at these places the wire can either get hit with with debris or slowly rip the insulation causing a short. The best idea is to either use an existing grommet, or to make a grommet yourself at last resort. To do this, you use an open spot in the foot well and use a punch, that way you can make sure the area is open on either side of the firewall. You don't wanna drill in a brake booster 😬. After this you sand the circle you cut and put some rubber, a new vacuum line with some RTV would probably work fine and then you have a solid grommet
Hey Parker qiuck little way to rig that shot strut is a pair of small vise grips clip it on to the shaft right above cylinder. Stick works good to. Nice vids man
Ian Price struts for hood are so cheap like 10-15 bucks just buy the replacement. Should have extra money from buying the cheap CCA instead of OFC. Just buy welding cable it’s much cheaper and it’s rated for any and everything
Yeah I hear you Thumper.
Yes man! But I thought you had this already. Bro, I been doing this for about 5 years now. So let me know if you need tips my friend. And trust me. You can is “0 gage welding wire” you can get it at Menards for like 100 bucks. It’s better. Trust me. And longer
Yeah man this is an old video haha!
I figure so. Didn’t look at the date due to it was on my feed. Most of the time my feed gets new videos
Honestly that's a really good set up I like it. If your putting a 2nd battery you should upgrade to a high output alternator. I love the set up it's very nice
That $uicideboy$ hit different!
Good shit man!! Gave me some ideas for my upgrade coming. Just bought new wire too and have the same amp on the way. Pushing 2 6.5 Memphis Mojo Minis and power flow is so key for these types of upgrades
My voltage drop is crazy with this amp got 0 gauge and big 3 upgrade..... going to do another battery and alternator later on for now I don't bass out to long
Good video bro! I have a Taramps 3k and ran it with a 4guage. I just ordered my 0 guage hoping it will feed it more power. And I like the link to the alternator you did as well as upgraded the ground for the battery. GOOD STUFF MAN!!! 🤘😎
Another great video, nice job bro!
Bro...you did a great job on those wires!
Not a bad install, that fuse holder is pretty awesome, but I’ve always been taught, and as well as all the amplifier installation manuals I’ve ever read you’re supposed to have a fuse within 18 inches of the battery under the hood, and I know everybody’s worried about the distortion with the RCA cables, and that does happen, but also I think it has to do with quality, if you were to spend the extra pocket and upgrade to what I got, which is a T 1000 Fosgate pushing 2 fosgate T1 10’s , you wouldn’t have as many distortion issues just because of the clarity and quality that is associated with the Fosgate power series, very helpful video though bud, especially for people that are still new to car audio
Great build parker, I have the same amp you have. I haven't completed the installation yet but running 1/0 guage sky high car audio ofc cable. I will be running a single exl b12 by ds18. which subwoofer were you using during this video?
You had the right idea up to the cca wire part
Bro look into wire ferrules they're good for full range contact in your power/ground connectors.
Nice vid..... only suggestion, Run your rca Jack's on one side of the vehicle and the power on the other..... with them running parallel on the same side.... you run the risk of picking up signal noise in the jacks from the voltage in the power wire, also use bolt, locking washer, flat washer then nut on underside.
Correct me if I'm wrong but if your amp is drawing 230 amps and your alternator is only capable of 160 amps I don't believe that doing a big three will not solve your problem with getting your amp enough power. You will need a new alternator if anything since that is the main power source. Doing a big three without enough power supplied may be worse for the car as you are allowing the amp to draw more power more efficiently from the alternator
Looking forward to it can't wait
It look good all you need is to put a fuse between the battery and the alternator but nice
If car manufacturers thought it was necessary they would have. Regulator rectifier adjusts amperage from alternator to battery. If regulator rectifier dies alternator won't charge battery. A fuse between alternator & battery is useless ( high current )
fuse between battery & amplifier is to save the amplifier.
That 75% aluminum 0 gauge you bought will only carry about 178 amps of current. You need ofc copper. Welding cable is a lot cheaper than that car audio stuff.you also need a frame ground from your battery to the frame and from your amplifier to the frame the body will carry approximately 200 amps of current. but since everything else that's running your engine is drawing off of it ,probably less. Frame ground is your best bet. Not judging just trying to help you get where you want to be in the most out of your setup. also you're going to need a better battery and a better alternator in the end for almost zero voltage drop. 250 amp ought to get it if it'll put that out at idle 250 amps at idle. because don't forget you still have to run your engine and computers and other electrical. Remember Overkill is better than not enough when you're talkin electrical current.
Good stuff though. Keep the updates. I rock the rp2k
Got one also thinking of getting smart 3
Great video thanks for this! Not to be a RUclips troll, I"m just saying for the health of your car (and you) The fuse needs to go as close to the battery as possible because when theres a massive surge that toasts the power cable, it's going to barbecue everything from the battery to the fuse. If there's 6 feet of wire before the fuse, that's 6 slabs of ribs......
Hey Parker been watching ur channel for a while now I I am subscriber, just wondering how u set ur gain? Nice vids👍
I use the multi meter method. I’ll show y’all how i set it in the next video
Is your gain set conservatively or have you set it to get the most out of the amp already? Jw. Set mine by ear at first and idk if it’s my preouts are low low or what but I can go all the way on the gain and never “hear” clipping. Thinking it’s something diff about this amp than most I’ve dealt with maybe, like maybe cleaner signal being sent to subs? Idk. I subscribed to the channel couple months back, was hella excited to see you get the Rockville subs me and my bro been talking about it. I’m running 2 Skar EVL 12’s and the RP2K and love it.. but using a DMM and ohms law and all, mine seems to be only putting out about 1100 or so at 1 ohm? Idk what’s up with that but she pounds.. liking the channel and progress you are making bro
Good job Parker.
Thank you!!
You forgot to solder your connections. Never trust a crimp as the wire will walk out over time. Crimp and solder then heat shrink with a tube with sealer.... especially with CCA wire, it's corrodes and turns to dust when any salt water ( I live in Minnesota...it snows here) comes in contact and a current is applied.
I honestly loved this video.
Good to hear!
The box don’t need to be tuned lower it’s just the amp they don’t play lows for nothing i just got one for my dd 612s and I hate it wish I would have never gotten rid of my kicker will be getting a kicker cxa1800 to replace it asap
I thought it was a good install. I would probably put some high temp tesa tape on your wire under the hood.
hey bro I have a question I'm trying to upgrade the same thing you did but do I also have to upgrade my RCA cables or do I just leave those in and only upgrade the power and the negative supply to 1/0?
If your RCAs work fine no need to change them.
Parker in the early stages
Man I c the upgrades good shit bro get ya system tuned bro
Tuned it in the next video. Should be posted tomorrow
Ok congrats
Your rca leads should be on the opposite side to your power ground wire to avoid noise from electrical pulses and magnetic influences from the current flow if your having odd noises and sounds this is probably your culprit
Where did you get that crimping tool. I like it. And nice job on the upgrade.
Good install
Try to keep the RCA/speaker wire away from the power supply if possible. Main cause of alt whine... and seperate ground points...
Excellent job
Thanks!!
The best copper wire through research is sky high audio. Rockford comes in 2nd
Nice 👍 job bro
U should get a set of nvx rca they r so dam good and built so well for there price
Remember you should always fuse closest to the battery in case of a short
On ur big 3 upgrade ur engine ground sapose to go to the body not the battery and its best to use the factory wires with the upgraded wire also
A double 12 Gateley sub box is calling your name lol
Where do you have your LPF and Subsonic filters set? Do you change those settings between different subs you have tested?
What kind of battery terminations did you use? It be cool if you could link the exact one you used. Also what sub did you use here?
I like the copper lugs you are using, that's the way to go instead of crimp style ring terminals imo. However I like to tourch the lug and fill it up about half way with a pool solder, push my wire in, hold it until it sets..... then its cock stiff, I can pull as hard as I want and it wont come out, i dont even bother crimping after that.
Love it. I got same amount and subs but I can’t seem to find that sweet spot on the amp like you did. Can you plug me with the knob settings? I’m lost on LPF and Hz settings bro
Look into ferrels aswell
Great job brother. Really loved the install you did. You took your time to do things right and it shows. Remember fuse everything. Be safe. Keep up the great work. Also Subbed. 👍👍
Really appreciate it!!
Very helpful that bix needs a port bad bud
I got the skar bass package the 2 12” Evl D4 with the rp2k I upgraded my battery alternator and did the big 3 for now my voltage is looking good. I was surprised on how much more punchy bass I felt like it gave me idk maybe it’s in my head lol.
So, with the 0 gauge wiring. Will the stock altenaltor hold up?
Dam my headphones 🎧 sounded like I was in his jeep lol
You should really route the signal wires oposite side of power,wires
Brooke Leimgruber if he installs an amp for the interior speakers. Then yes
On 2k and no amo on doors,system, may be set back just a bit by this