Replacing/repairing the power window on a 2002 Ford Explorer. This video is a how to describing the process to replace the window regulator in the Ford Explorer
Great video! If you lower the window almost all the way down, there is a hole at the bottom of the door that lines up with the rivet perfectly to drill it out.
Mr Smooth. One of the wonderful things about RUclips is that it grants anyone the ability to create their own video content and upload it. I would recommend, in the future, that you don't bother telling people "u suck" but instead post your own video showing just how awesome *you* are. I'm certain the internet will thank you for it.
Thanks for this video, it really helped out. Already had my panels off but I hadn't looked at how to actually remove/replace everything. Thanks to your video I knew before hand to buy a dremel and bolts. 2 rear regulators later and I've got working windows again. Dealing with the rivets took the most time. BTW who dislikes a video like this?
For folks reading this 8yrs later, if you slide the window all the way down, there is an access hole that lines up with the rivet for much easier drilling.
There are 3 tabs that hold the rivet in place. (The metal brace part. The middle tab is bent to hold it in place) I grabbed a pair of needle nosed pliers and straightened the middle tab and slid the rivet right out from the assembly. I was then able to slide it back into the new assembly. It works perfectly! Thanks for the help!
Yes everything works now. Ended up taking two days. They couldn't finish after first day so key me take my car. While driving around I said "maybe I'll check the other window" and after a few up and downs the right side back window also died, so I had to have it fixed too. Your vid made me appreciate how complicated this is, otherwise I would have thought they were doing it wrong. Had to replace motors as well. Everything working now except up is down and down is up on the switches.
This was perfect, just what I needed. I found I didn't need to drill out the rivet, once I was able to work the window up high enough, I could simply remove the cable from the assembly attached to the window, then I could get that vertical riser out. I'm not going to bother fixing it, just going to leave the window up. Thank you!
Thanks for this video. Many blessing for you and your family. Please keep making these VERY self and detailed explanatory videos. They help and save us a lot of money. Awesome!
Thanks for posting this, now I figure out if it is my regulator or not. Motor still works, but I have no control of my passengers side rear window. I can manually move it. This is great stuff. I think I will record when I take mine apart and see what the issue is. I have only owned one model year Explorer, 2002. The amount of quality issues with this vehicle is incredible. Front hubs, rear wheel bearings and last 5 spark plugs blow out and I have had them helicoiled
Just did the same repair tonite, same door even the truck is the same color but mine is a 2003 and the door panel hooks in place, no chrismas tree fasteners, thank god.
BTW, I bought the regulator/motor through Ebay (am-autoparts) for $69 with free shipping. The part seems good, but I did have to bend the bracket surrounding the motor a bit so that the bolts would match up with the holes in the door frame. A little bit of pliers-work and it fit just fine.
"Let" not "key." Ended up costing over a thousand dollars for me, but it's my neighborhood service place and I like them. Getting harder every year to find these parts. I have a 1991 Ford Explorer I stubbornly keep because its useful when I need to haul big objects. Had everything replaced except the engine pretty much. Anyway thanks for your video it was educational.
Thanks for the video. How much should a repair like this cost? I too have a 2002 Explorer with a malfunctioning back window. Not sure what the EXACT cause is, or if the price point varies based on that, but an estimate would be helpful.
Cool vid, On my 2002 explorer my door panel came off a little different then this one. everything else looks the same except after you remove the upper and lower bolts that hold the panel on, I just had to lift the whole panel straight up, it came off real easy.
Mine wouldn't go back up tonight watched another video of yours how to replace speakers whivh helped me. And this one my cable came off but is still good how do you hook it back up to the assembly??
In regards to the speaker, that's an ease of access thing. The white sheet is to protect the interior of the car from ingress of water. You'll find that it's gone by the wayside on many older cars. I personally like to try to keep it intact, but I've also had it fall apart/tear in the past. If you live in an especially wet environment you may want to consider replacing it. To tell if he's "messing it up"... does it work?
@93seanmarty Hey man, I just finished this up today. You're tip about the oval hole in the door really helped me out because I had no idea how I was gonna get that rivet out without being able to line up my drill straight. Took about 30 mins just to get the rivet out but oh well. $80 for the part....to hell with the dealership!
Most of that is really straightforward. The only fiddly bit is the rivets, and only because they can take a while to get out if they're in there tight.
i also wanted to thank you for this ........ I'm sure you made it look easier than it is with all of your experience however I'm very appreciative and outright inspired (:
Hello, I am looking to replace the same exact power window regulator in my 2004 Explorer. I notice when you begin the process of taking the regulator out and while putting the new one in your window is about a fifth of the way or so down. Mine is currently stuck all the way up. I assume I need to get it down a little bit to get to the rivet connecting the regulator to the window. Do you know if there is a mechanical release to lower the window? Thanks for the great video.
It's either the switch, the motor, the regulator or the wiring. I would recommend pulling the door panel and checking the wiring. Does the motor make any sound when you try to raise/lower the window?
For those of you with no dremel, I bought a 9" metal sawsall blade to cut the rivet out. It was definitely not ideal (took almost an hour just to cut the rivet out), but I saved around $100 versus buying the dremel, the 'skinny' attachment, and the accessory for grinding the metal down. I was disappointed when the window still didn't operate well... Next week I'm going to wipe out the track and spray in some pledge (like WD40 but doesn't attract dirt). I'll check back if it works.
It's likely to be the regulator (the item we replaced in this video). You have a window switch on both the door and the driver's door. Try both. If it works fine for one switch, but not the other, then I would question the switch. If it doesn't work for either then I would look at the regulator/motor.
Just a note to say thanks. I lost both regulators on my rear doors, and I've had to leverage this video twice now, for my 2003 Explorer. I didn't replace the regulators, but instead, I've propped the windows up in a closed position.
how did you get your window back up? I fixed my front pass. window but now my back pass. window is stuck down and i just want to get it back up for now so I can drive around cause it is winter here in MN lol thanks!
There is the rivet that connects the old assembly to the window. You have to completely remove/drill out the rivet, then the window should come loose easily from the regulator.
Down vs. Up is basically dealing with the issue of gravity. It will work more easily going down because the window wants to go down thanks to the force of gravity. I'd say the unit is very tired and needs to be replaced.
Thanks a million for this video. Ford wants to charge as much for install as for the part (around $300 part+labor), now I can see why. I'll give it go first before they get my money. Any chance of you seeing a way to fix that cheap plastic clip? Replacing it somehow?
I'm about to do this today. I too ordered the same part on ebay from am-autoparts. I hope its still working well for you? I did go ahead and buy a dremel for $30 from wally world cause i needed one anyways. Thanks for the added tidbits---Hope I can install mine in under an hour...
The suspense was killing me. I just needed to know how you reattached the window. I suspected a nut and I was right. I used a lock nut with the plastic lining to re attach. I also drilled a small hole directly in front on the rivit so I could drill it out with my cordless drill. I then used this hole to help tighten the nut and bolt that held the window. The hole was a1/2 inch I think. It was a 3/8 carbide tip to drill out the rivit.
Im in AZ too. Working on a Windstar regulator and motor, and also ran into trouble with the 2 rivets connecting the window channel bracket to the glass. Did you drill out these two rivets, which have the round plastic washers? I'm not going to be able to move forward without figuring out how to get the glass off of the bracket, without breaking the glass.
It would have been much quicker were it not for the difficulty of removing the rivet. I still haven't taken the time to clean out the tracks (waiting for better weather), but am still hopeful that will really improve the performance. Good luck!
I have one that the motor is still working fine but the window wont go up or down like the riser part isnt pushing the window up, if i pull up on tne window it just slides back down.
Philip - One of the joys of the internet is that it's actually easier to find parts for our older cars, but you do need to know where to look. For recycled parts there's car-part.com. For new parts all the major auto stores have good online offerrings and I'm eternally amazed to see what I can buy on Amazon.
My service guy just ripped up whatever that white plastic sheet was and had to cut through the metal of the old regulator to get it out. He didn't take the speaker off at all. Is there a way to tell if he's messing it up? Is that white sheet thing important?
So, I have never worked on a Windstar, so I cannot comment to the differences. The Rivets that you drill out on an Explorer attach the regulator to the window mechanism. If your Windstar is newer that might explain the round plastic washers. Or are you talking about the channel that runs across the glass? Try visiting my facebook and posting a picture.
I re installed and when I tested before finishing up, motor does not seem to respond to window control. Do you know what fuse handles front passenger window regulator? Location of fuse box is rediculous and I don't want to pull every fuse! Thanks for the video.
Me and my dad are having a problem on our 1993 ford explorer. The windows won't work at all except for the front right... But we are working on the back driver side and the window motor works but the window won't go down or up, and the cable runs up the golden track and loops around these white plastic things above and below the window and loops back to the motor.. And it has a pumping like motion which we assume pushes and pulls the cable to move the window. But my question is this Is the cable bad or is the motor not grabbing hold of the cable to move it?
Finally got around to finishing the job properly, but I did this with an aftermarket regulator and had a problem with the limit strap slamming against the cable run. Workaround: ruclips.net/video/-ROVyvlOcho/видео.html
So dumb question, what else could be the problem if you've already changed the regulator and there's still now power to that window after everything has been plugged back in? The fuse box has been checked, no blown fuses. The master switch has been changed. I'm changing the door window switch as we speak and there's still no power. Could it be a wiring issue in the door panel itself?
After my Ford Explorer Window stopped working I checked my interior fuse panel and found fuse 17 blown. I replaced it twice only to have it blow both new fuses immediately. So my question is: will a bad window regulator cause a this short or should I been focusing on the wiring instead?
what if the motor works but the window does not move, do you still have to change the whole regulator or can you fix it to wear you can reattach the window?
Most of the time it's not the motor itself that breaks. It's the regulator assembly (of which the motor is part). Ford doesn't sell the specific bits, but only a whole regulator assembly, so even if the motor itself works, you still have to replace the entire assembly.
My motor on the rear left door goes up and down. After removing all necessary parts, and as I looked inside, there is rivet, that I assume it was holding tight the metal arm/bracket horizontally placed into the slot of the hard rubber piece that goes up & down, which is now loose. The questions are: In the comments are mentioning two rivets. I can only see one. Do I replace it with a screw, washer and nut like you did, or do I have to purchase the whole set up? Thanks in Advance !
you can see the second rivet that's closer to the door hinge if you adjust the window height just right. it will show up on one of the openings on the metal panel
Same window on our explorer will go down but not up. I tried switching rear door switches but seems regulator is dead for up. Is there anything I can do to keep window up until I get a new regulator with this style system? I know in old trucks you could stick a 2x4 under the window.
my rear ones doesnt work,but just want replace only the motors ,not all asembly...can i do that or everytime motor failed i have to buy all the assembly??
i have a 2002 ford explorer sport trac, all my windows work except my left back passenger side one. i never use the back windows, you have any idea what the problem can be?
I got my front passenger window fixed now my back pass. window rolls down but wont roll back up!! is there any way I can get my window back up for the mean time until I can get it fixed?
lol My 2002 Explorer same right rear window broke to the plastic clip that goes up and down that black track on the regulator broke so it pop on and off i disconnected the switch for now so my son can't play with it until i get it fixed plus it smacks the glass hard sounds like its gonna to break it! Im just going to bring it to the Ford Dealer looks like to much work drilling & etc. rather them do so i don't mess it up.
I have a 2002 Explorer with 224,000km. It's not the Explorer itself it's a common issue with the cable design, the old solid design never had this issue however any car equipped with cable design will eventually break after 10 years. BTW just for more info the common failure is the plastic clip holding it to the rail the glass slides on. If you hear grind close window so you don't have a stuck open window. Mine broke because when I enter my underground the windows have ice buildup on both exterior and interior during this years winter(first has ever happened). I need to roll them down so I can see so I would try to force it down by running the motor and that broke it back in March. I also suggest buying spare plastic piece that causes this issue cause if you notice window isnt gliding smoothly or a grind you can attempt to save it. AND FINAL NOTE MAJORITY OF MODELS FROM ALL BRANDS USE THIS STUPID DESIGN, yes that includes Honda and Toyota, Infiniti etc. Friends had issues with the cable design breaking on their cars. Hopefully all brands stopped using this design for good. Its a shame as the motors for the windows still work but when they get tangled they too need to be replaced.
Another thing too is outsourcing which alot of manufactuers are doing, because it's expensive to keep jobs here. It's also the reason why people get a new car every 5 years. Out of warranty means out of luck.
DO NOT FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR PANEL REMOVAL.The small panel under the switch cluster must come off first or you will break a retainer. The door panel does NOT use Christmas tree retainers, you lift the panel straight up after removing the two screws. If not, you will break the hook retainers. WHY DID YOU NOT TELL PEOPLE THS. You would have noticed the broken clips, or if you got lucky and they did not break, you would have notice they did not just "pop in", when you attempted to reinstall.
Well, last time I checked the regulator (it comes as a single unit) was about $150.00. But don't quote me on that. Plus some labor, I'd say somewhere in the $500.00 range. I never pay for labor, so I'm not totally certain.
Great video! If you lower the window almost all the way down, there is a hole at the bottom of the door that lines up with the rivet perfectly to drill it out.
Mr Smooth. One of the wonderful things about RUclips is that it grants anyone the ability to create their own video content and upload it. I would recommend, in the future, that you don't bother telling people "u suck" but instead post your own video showing just how awesome *you* are. I'm certain the internet will thank you for it.
Thanks for this video, it really helped out. Already had my panels off but I hadn't looked at how to actually remove/replace everything. Thanks to your video I knew before hand to buy a dremel and bolts. 2 rear regulators later and I've got working windows again. Dealing with the rivets took the most time. BTW who dislikes a video like this?
For folks reading this 8yrs later, if you slide the window all the way down, there is an access hole that lines up with the rivet for much easier drilling.
There are 3 tabs that hold the rivet in place. (The metal brace part. The middle tab is bent to hold it in place) I grabbed a pair of needle nosed pliers and straightened the middle tab and slid the rivet right out from the assembly. I was then able to slide it back into the new assembly. It works perfectly! Thanks for the help!
Yes everything works now. Ended up taking two days. They couldn't finish after first day so key me take my car. While driving around I said "maybe I'll check the other window" and after a few up and downs the right side back window also died, so I had to have it fixed too. Your vid made me appreciate how complicated this is, otherwise I would have thought they were doing it wrong. Had to replace motors as well. Everything working now except up is down and down is up on the switches.
This was perfect, just what I needed. I found I didn't need to drill out the rivet, once I was able to work the window up high enough, I could simply remove the cable from the assembly attached to the window, then I could get that vertical riser out. I'm not going to bother fixing it, just going to leave the window up. Thank you!
Thanks for this video. Many blessing for you and your family. Please keep making these VERY self and detailed explanatory videos. They help and save us a lot of money. Awesome!
Thanks for posting this, now I figure out if it is my regulator or not. Motor still works, but I have no control of my passengers side rear window. I can manually move it. This is great stuff. I think I will record when I take mine apart and see what the issue is. I have only owned one model year Explorer, 2002. The amount of quality issues with this vehicle is incredible. Front hubs, rear wheel bearings and last 5 spark plugs blow out and I have had them helicoiled
Thank you for the video.. I have the exact problem same side too.. Something to do this weekend..
This was fantastic, thanks. Following your instructions I did this in about an hour. Really appreciate it.
thank u sir 4 ur knowledge it help me a lot to fix my window
Just did the same repair tonite, same door even the truck is the same color but mine is a 2003 and the door panel hooks in place, no chrismas tree fasteners, thank god.
thank you very much for a good job. Please ignore the stupid who criticize, they don't help the World. Blessings.
BTW, I bought the regulator/motor through Ebay (am-autoparts) for $69 with free shipping. The part seems good, but I did have to bend the bracket surrounding the motor a bit so that the bolts would match up with the holes in the door frame. A little bit of pliers-work and it fit just fine.
"Let" not "key." Ended up costing over a thousand dollars for me, but it's my neighborhood service place and I like them. Getting harder every year to find these parts. I have a 1991 Ford Explorer I stubbornly keep because its useful when I need to haul big objects. Had everything replaced except the engine pretty much. Anyway thanks for your video it was educational.
Thanks for the video.
How much should a repair like this cost? I too have a 2002 Explorer with a malfunctioning back window. Not sure what the EXACT cause is, or if the price point varies based on that, but an estimate would be helpful.
LIFT up on the door panel BEFORE attempting to pull out on it !!!
If you don't you will break off the plastic clips !!!
Great video!!...I was able to follow the steps and change the window regulator with out any problems. Thanks
thank you for doing this
Cool vid, On my 2002 explorer my door panel came off a little different then this one. everything else looks the same except after you remove the upper and lower bolts that hold the panel on, I just had to lift the whole panel straight up, it came off real easy.
Mine wouldn't go back up tonight watched another video of yours how to replace speakers whivh helped me. And this one my cable came off but is still good how do you hook it back up to the assembly??
In regards to the speaker, that's an ease of access thing. The white sheet is to protect the interior of the car from ingress of water. You'll find that it's gone by the wayside on many older cars. I personally like to try to keep it intact, but I've also had it fall apart/tear in the past. If you live in an especially wet environment you may want to consider replacing it. To tell if he's "messing it up"... does it work?
@93seanmarty Hey man, I just finished this up today. You're tip about the oval hole in the door really helped me out because I had no idea how I was gonna get that rivet out without being able to line up my drill straight. Took about 30 mins just to get the rivet out but oh well. $80 for the part....to hell with the dealership!
Most of that is really straightforward. The only fiddly bit is the rivets, and only because they can take a while to get out if they're in there tight.
It's a great video! it's very helpful! I have this problem and I know now how to resolve it!
i also wanted to thank you for this ........ I'm sure you made it look easier than it is with all of your experience however I'm very appreciative and outright inspired (:
Hello, I am looking to replace the same exact power window regulator in my 2004 Explorer. I notice when you begin the process of taking the regulator out and while putting the new one in your window is about a fifth of the way or so down. Mine is currently stuck all the way up. I assume I need to get it down a little bit to get to the rivet connecting the regulator to the window.
Do you know if there is a mechanical release to lower the window?
Thanks for the great video.
good job! Keep the videos going
It's either the switch, the motor, the regulator or the wiring. I would recommend pulling the door panel and checking the wiring. Does the motor make any sound when you try to raise/lower the window?
great video,....!!!!
For those of you with no dremel, I bought a 9" metal sawsall blade to cut the rivet out. It was definitely not ideal (took almost an hour just to cut the rivet out), but I saved around $100 versus buying the dremel, the 'skinny' attachment, and the accessory for grinding the metal down.
I was disappointed when the window still didn't operate well... Next week I'm going to wipe out the track and spray in some pledge (like WD40 but doesn't attract dirt). I'll check back if it works.
Thanks!! This is EXACTLY what I needed!!
Thank you for the video. Bought my part from Rock Auto.
It's likely to be the regulator (the item we replaced in this video). You have a window switch on both the door and the driver's door. Try both. If it works fine for one switch, but not the other, then I would question the switch. If it doesn't work for either then I would look at the regulator/motor.
Just a note to say thanks.
I lost both regulators on my rear doors, and I've had to leverage this video twice now, for my 2003 Explorer.
I didn't replace the regulators, but instead, I've propped the windows up in a closed position.
how did you get your window back up? I fixed my front pass. window but now my back pass. window is stuck down and i just want to get it back up for now so I can drive around cause it is winter here in MN lol thanks!
great thanks for your help
There is the rivet that connects the old assembly to the window. You have to completely remove/drill out the rivet, then the window should come loose easily from the regulator.
Down vs. Up is basically dealing with the issue of gravity. It will work more easily going down because the window wants to go down thanks to the force of gravity. I'd say the unit is very tired and needs to be replaced.
ABSOLUTELY, Thanks so much! This was very helpful to me also.
Are you guys in the Boston area or are you just a Red Sox fan (the hat)?
Thanks for this video...really helped me out
Thanks a million for this video. Ford wants to charge as much for install as for the part (around $300 part+labor), now I can see why. I'll give it go first before they get my money.
Any chance of you seeing a way to fix that cheap plastic clip? Replacing it somehow?
I'm about to do this today. I too ordered the same part on ebay from am-autoparts. I hope its still working well for you? I did go ahead and buy a dremel for $30 from wally world cause i needed one anyways. Thanks for the added tidbits---Hope I can install mine in under an hour...
The suspense was killing me. I just needed to know how you reattached the window. I suspected a nut and I was right. I used a lock nut with the plastic lining to re attach. I also drilled a small hole directly in front on the rivit so I could drill it out with my cordless drill. I then used this hole to help tighten the nut and bolt that held the window. The hole was a1/2 inch I think. It was a 3/8 carbide tip to drill out the rivit.
Im in AZ too. Working on a Windstar regulator and motor, and also ran into trouble with the 2 rivets connecting the window channel bracket to the glass. Did you drill out these two rivets, which have the round plastic washers? I'm not going to be able to move forward without figuring out how to get the glass off of the bracket, without breaking the glass.
It would have been much quicker were it not for the difficulty of removing the rivet. I still haven't taken the time to clean out the tracks (waiting for better weather), but am still hopeful that will really improve the performance. Good luck!
So what replaces the rivets on the new kit?
I'm having trouble removing the glass from the old assembly! I'm stuck. Any suggestions?
@rlgdguy I grew up on Cape Cod. I now live in Arizona. I will *always* be a Red Sox fan!
Good job. Thanks . Mister.
I have one that the motor is still working fine but the window wont go up or down like the riser part isnt pushing the window up, if i pull up on tne window it just slides back down.
Thanks you made it easy.
Philip - One of the joys of the internet is that it's actually easier to find parts for our older cars, but you do need to know where to look. For recycled parts there's car-part.com. For new parts all the major auto stores have good online offerrings and I'm eternally amazed to see what I can buy on Amazon.
My service guy just ripped up whatever that white plastic sheet was and had to cut through the metal of the old regulator to get it out. He didn't take the speaker off at all. Is there a way to tell if he's messing it up? Is that white sheet thing important?
So, I have never worked on a Windstar, so I cannot comment to the differences. The Rivets that you drill out on an Explorer attach the regulator to the window mechanism. If your Windstar is newer that might explain the round plastic washers. Or are you talking about the channel that runs across the glass? Try visiting my facebook and posting a picture.
I re installed and when I tested before finishing up, motor does not seem to respond to window control. Do you know what fuse handles front passenger window regulator? Location of fuse box is rediculous and I don't want to pull every fuse! Thanks for the video.
Nevermind... Child window lock!
Very helpful, thank you.
Me and my dad are having a problem on our 1993 ford explorer. The windows won't work at all except for the front right... But we are working on the back driver side and the window motor works but the window won't go down or up, and the cable runs up the golden track and loops around these white plastic things above and below the window and loops back to the motor.. And it has a pumping like motion which we assume pushes and pulls the cable to move the window. But my question is this
Is the cable bad or is the motor not grabbing hold of the cable to move it?
Finally got around to finishing the job properly, but I did this with an aftermarket regulator and had a problem with the limit strap slamming against the cable run. Workaround: ruclips.net/video/-ROVyvlOcho/видео.html
So dumb question, what else could be the problem if you've already changed the regulator and there's still now power to that window after everything has been plugged back in? The fuse box has been checked, no blown fuses. The master switch has been changed. I'm changing the door window switch as we speak and there's still no power. Could it be a wiring issue in the door panel itself?
After my Ford Explorer Window stopped working I checked my interior fuse panel and found fuse 17 blown. I replaced it twice only to have it blow both new fuses immediately. So my question is: will a bad window regulator cause a this short or should I been focusing on the wiring instead?
what if the motor works but the window does not move, do you still have to change the whole regulator or can you fix it to wear you can reattach the window?
Most of the time it's not the motor itself that breaks. It's the regulator assembly (of which the motor is part). Ford doesn't sell the specific bits, but only a whole regulator assembly, so even if the motor itself works, you still have to replace the entire assembly.
I have not taking the door apart yet but thanks for the input, you have been helpful at all you do.... thumbs up!!!!!!
It would help if we could see what you're doing.
My motor on the rear left door goes up and down.
After removing all necessary parts, and as I looked inside, there is rivet, that I assume it was holding tight the metal arm/bracket horizontally placed into the slot of the hard rubber piece that goes up & down, which is now loose.
The questions are: In the comments are mentioning two rivets. I can only see one. Do I replace it with a screw, washer and nut like you did, or do I have to purchase the whole set up?
Thanks in Advance !
you can see the second rivet that's closer to the door hinge if you adjust the window height just right. it will show up on one of the openings on the metal panel
Same window on our explorer will go down but not up. I tried switching rear door switches but seems regulator is dead for up. Is there anything I can do to keep window up until I get a new regulator with this style system? I know in old trucks you could stick a 2x4 under the window.
man this is great!!
Nice video but u need more ligth
my rear ones doesnt work,but just want replace only the motors ,not all asembly...can i do that or everytime motor failed i have to buy all the assembly??
i have a 2002 ford explorer sport trac, all my windows work except my left back passenger side one. i never use the back windows, you have any idea what the problem can be?
Good job, thank you.
That's why like vehicles with the minimum of electronics. Less things to break!
@CoolasIce2 Err, What do you need my GPS coordinates for?
I got my front passenger window fixed now my back pass. window rolls down but wont roll back up!! is there any way I can get my window back up for the mean time until I can get it fixed?
Thanks man!
What are your GPS coordinates there?
Yeah, that rivet is extraordinarily annoying. We need to order a driver's side regulator now as it looks like it's going to fail as well.
lol My 2002 Explorer same right rear window broke to the plastic clip that goes up and down that black track on the regulator broke so it pop on and off i disconnected the switch for now so my son can't play with it until i get it fixed plus it smacks the glass hard sounds like its gonna to break it! Im just going to bring it to the Ford Dealer looks like to much work drilling & etc. rather them do so i don't mess it up.
I have a 2002 Explorer with 224,000km. It's not the Explorer itself it's a common issue with the cable design, the old solid design never had this issue however any car equipped with cable design will eventually break after 10 years. BTW just for more info the common failure is the plastic clip holding it to the rail the glass slides on. If you hear grind close window so you don't have a stuck open window. Mine broke because when I enter my underground the windows have ice buildup on both exterior and interior during this years winter(first has ever happened). I need to roll them down so I can see so I would try to force it down by running the motor and that broke it back in March. I also suggest buying spare plastic piece that causes this issue cause if you notice window isnt gliding smoothly or a grind you can attempt to save it. AND FINAL NOTE MAJORITY OF MODELS FROM ALL BRANDS USE THIS STUPID DESIGN, yes that includes Honda and Toyota, Infiniti etc. Friends had issues with the cable design breaking on their cars. Hopefully all brands stopped using this design for good. Its a shame as the motors for the windows still work but when they get tangled they too need to be replaced.
Another thing too is outsourcing which alot of manufactuers are doing, because it's expensive to keep jobs here. It's also the reason why people get a new car every 5 years. Out of warranty means out of luck.
You cut out the parts that I wanted to see you do...
If there is an easier way to take the panel off then please post a video.
DO NOT FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR PANEL REMOVAL.The small panel under the switch cluster must come off first or you will break a retainer. The door panel does NOT use Christmas tree retainers, you lift the panel straight up after removing the two screws. If not, you will break the hook retainers. WHY DID YOU NOT TELL PEOPLE THS. You would have noticed the broken clips, or if you got lucky and they did not break, you would have notice they did not just "pop in", when you attempted to reinstall.
You are correct. These instructions are wrong.
What a nightmare for the novice. Time for some Wood wedges to jam in the rubber guides and disconnect the power.
yes it is, what doe's he care?
yes! :)
TheyMightBeRacing Volvo
If you can hear the motor running but the window does not move, then it's the window regulator that needs replacing.
Well, last time I checked the regulator (it comes as a single unit) was about $150.00. But don't quote me on that. Plus some labor, I'd say somewhere in the $500.00 range. I never pay for labor, so I'm not totally certain.
These things suck both back ones broke -:-(
you need better lighting for yourself and the video
Dude u suck at it all you got to do is lift the panel off and slide it back on.. And that's it it only takes about 30-40 minutes to do.