~ Thanx so much, one of my neighbors was having a problem with his front right window not working. This is certainly a time & money saver, no haggles work around.
I’m glad I found this. My wife has been dealing without her passenger window going down and I had done everything I could think of. Did not think of a broken wire but there it was once I pulled the driver door wire boot back. Any problems in the future that’s the first place I’ll look. Thanks. All you firefighters out there stay safe. Jeff from Freeland
Same problem on my 2000 Excursion. Same yellow w/ black stripe wire broke, as in this video. 1.5 hr from start to finish on fixing this. Saved $150 that the shop would have charged to fix. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for this video it saved me a lot of time on a customers vehicle, it had a wire broke on the LR door jam too. I fixed it it no time and saved my customer a ton of money and that makes for return customers thanks again!
Thank you for the info on the broken wire issue. My 2005 Explorer's problem with the passenger power window was a broken wire just inside the driver's door. Your video saved me gobs of time ... Thanks again!
Great video. Thanks a bunch as I wasn't sure how to get the rubber sleeve out to get access. I would like to mention one thing I figured out in the past by breaking mine. Before you remove the switches you should remove the panel behind the door handle. It is also clips and you can just pry out right behind the speaker grill. On the switch there is a little plastic clip that helps hold the switch down. It clips onto the door handle panel at the front. Again, great video!!
It sounds like to me Zach deserves a pay raise, outstanding performance my fellow techs. Being accurate and thorough is the key to diagnoses. This is just ONE way of diagnosing this complaint. Isolating those wires one at a time and either applying a ground or power to one end with a test light attached to the other end would have shown the same results. The test light, would not have illuminated, indicating an open(infinite resistance) in that wire. There are so many variables, but that is what keeps us on our feet. Good Job.
Also wise to check all the other wires around the the broken wire area. Since one wire broken, may be the case that other wires show signs of failure (e.g. insulation broken, wire looks flat with bare wiring seen, chafing evident etc.....) especially at a pivot point or hinge. Excellent video, keep up the good work.
Be careful using continuity buzzer it can still sound at 100 ohms. Also you can have good resistance but can still have a large voltage drop in the wire. It is a good test just to prove if you have a complete circuit or a open.
I ask because if the rear passenger window switch (RPWS) had constant battery voltage at pin 3 and the rear passenger window (RPW) did go up from the RPWS, doing a voltage drop test across pin 3 & 6 of the RPWS while pressing the RPWS down button would produce a zero volt reading. If you wiggle the meter leads at that time you would get a ghost voltage reading (if auto-ranging is enabled on the meter, otherwise set the meter to mV) indicating a open in the circuit which could only come from the yellow/black wire with that circuit. So two quick voltage tests and you know there is a open in the yellow/black wire without having to take anything apart and saving a ton of time/effort. Or am I missing something? Thanks a lot...
Strange that one wire would fail among a 15-20 wires. Had to have been heavily damaged somehow during manufacture. Nice video and good smooth delivery.
an easy first check is to activate all the window controls and look for the overhead light to dim. this will show if power is being sent to the window motor or not. if the light dims the power is good and the motor is drawing current dimming the light some, if not there is no power going to the window motor or the motor is not working.
So, I tried this. My lights dim when I use the controls for the window that won't go down. Does this mean that the motor is drawing the power, but just not working? I already looked for a broken wire, and didn't find one.
lolz, I would have never verified that the switch is good with the front right. I would have just bought another switch and rage quit when it didn't work. Luckily I don't fix cars for a living, only a hobby. Nice vid, much appreciated!
Very nice video on troubleshooting power window problems along with wiring diagrams. I have some questions as well as suggestions. 1st, when doing continuity test...do all the connectors just simply pull and unplug from the switches? Even on older 98 model Explorers and/or Mountaineers? 2nd, that's a lot of trouble to have to unplug the right rear switch to test on the front passenger window (you would have to pull off yet another door panel). Instead of doing a continuity test from driver master switch to the right rear window connector (Red/Blk to Red/Blk, Yellow-Blk to Yellow-Blk), you could've used a test light back probing the Red/Blk at the master switch while toggling (Up or Down), then back probe at the Red/Blk on the Right Rear switch. You could do this with the Yellow/Blk as well. If there is continuity between the master and rear switch, the test light will behave the same. Note, there is the input to the right rear switch on pins 1 & 6 and there is the corresponding output on pins 2 & 5 going to the motor. 3rd, I would not have soldered that cable in and then test if the window worked. I would had twisted it together, test the window, and if works than solder them. Nice video though! I'm now faced with a situation whereby the motor is dead, but I need to roll up the window for now until i can fix it.
In my 2002 Explorer, when I try to raise the window, I hear a fast tic, tic, tic, tic, tic. so I know there is power going to the switch and motor. So could the problem be with the motor, gears and such? or could it be that the glass came off of the track or whatever holds the glass. BTW, I am able to raise and lower the glass manually by grabbing a hold of the of the glass with my hands and moving it up or down.
Now that was motherfcka professional work right there 👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿✊🏿✊🏿✊🏿 That's the problem im having with my front passenger window it sometimes go up and down when my car starts 😅
Very well done video many thanks for sharing. . To test a window switch another way would to simply use an OHM meter and activate the switch up and down.
Good vid. Just one question because from what i've learned is that you shouldn't solder between the door jamb because over time the solder will just break apart again. Would the correct method be to replace with a new length of wire between the door and inside under the dash and soldier in those two locations instead because the new wire would not have a break in it. THanks
good video, not sure why you tested continuity from the master switch to the window instead of testing power from the master switch & door switch to the window motor connector.
the only reason he checked that right front door is because power has to go to the master switch first according to the wiring schematic other cars could be controlled differently. a voltage drop could of save less time about 50%. continuity or resistance is not too precise since a few strands of wire could show continuity and resistance but with a voltage drop test you could see the voltage lost at the system meaning corrosion or not a good connection
As everyone said, it was an extremely informative video. Thanks. My problem is a little different from that in the video, and hoped you might be able to answer a question for me. I have an extended cab, so it has only two operating windows. I had been having problems with the switch for the driver's window, and all the sudden both windows stopped working. Neither switch on the driver's door will operate either window, and the switch on the passenger's window does not work either. No blown fuses, and I exchanged the relays. If the switch on the driver's door goes bad, is it possible for it to prevent the switch on the passenger's door to stop working?
A continuity check will only show opens, but will not test for high resistance....oops, Zach let one slip. I only caught this a month too late. Killer2600, you are correct.
Good troubleshooting, But a little too much. I would use my meter to check the switches. Check voltage at the motor. Then I know it is an open. Good repair.
wish more techs would at least match the big colour on the wire for the next tech that has to track these down in the future. but great diagnostic work
I have a 03 sportrac and my left rear window goes down but it wont go up. And on my master switch the door lock and mirrors dont work.. i dont know if all of this is connected. What do i need to do to find the problem...
I have a 2002 ford explorer and I watched ur video and found 4 broken wires but the windoe still doesn't go up and down what else could I do the motor is good so is the switch and still nothing getting to the motor
You said your DVM won't check for high resistance on continuity test, that's correct, because you won't get a very high resistance on those wires anyways.... a 200ohms scale is plenty to check for resistance on those wires, unless their a mile long. And, on most DVM's you could still get the beep on continuity even at 30 ohms, maybe even more... ? outside of that you just have to watch the meter for a reading. So I doubt very seriously if you need more than a 200 ohms scale to get an accurate resistance reading on any wire in a vehicle, it takes a very fine and or long copper wire to jump off a 200 ohms scale.
Great video, but a continuity test can fail you if that wire had just a few broken strands of wire. After confirming the motor and with koeo unplugging the connector at the motor back probing the connector side and load testing with a LoadPro while pressing the door or master switch up or down would have identified what side was open or had high resistance. A continuity test can fail you, a voltage load drop never will, plus its quicker too...
Yeah, continuity tests can be very very misleading. They are only accurate at indicating an open in a circuit. A voltage drop test is much more accurate & useful. While a LoadPro is a cool tool, it is a little overkill here (no disrespect to Daniel Sullivan). A simple voltage drop test across pin 3 & 6 of the rear passenger window switch while pressing the down button would produce a reading of zero volts (loading the circuit with the LoadPro would also produce a zero volt reading because there is no current flow due to the open in the circuit, btw). If you wiggle the meter leads at that time (with the LoadPro or not) you would get a ghost voltage reading (if auto-ranging is enabled on the meter, otherwise set the meter to mV) indicating a open in the circuit which could only come from the yellow/black wire with this circuit.
If it isn't the fuse it could be a broken wire. On my car the window would work randomly. If it works sometimes common sense should tell you it isn't the fuse. Try this first, the accordion looking plastic you see when you open your door is supposed to protect the wire. When you open and close the door, overtime the wires can become kinked or broken. Try squeezing or manipulating (not too aggressively) the "accordion" while holding the switch to see if it moves. If it does the wire can be located and repaired with a butt connection. If the window still doesn't work when you try this it could be a motor or something else..I saved $300 by fixing the wire on the door. Thanks
Hello, This video was very helpful to me in many ways. My problem is different, on my 2003 explorer V8 EB loaded. All of a sudden my windows wont work unless I have the DRIVERS door open. when I shut the door none of the windows will work from any of the doors switched, when I open the drivers door all of the windows work from each door including the master drivers controls. Any ideas ???
+johnsshelbygt I had the same issue. Basically the same issue as this just my broken wire in the drivers door was a 12 gauge black wire. I also found 2 others that the coating had broken free.
omg... i changed the regulator in front passenger and it still didn't work.... i was lost... watched your video and didn't have volt checker so i just went for the door jamb and the wire bundle and bingo!!!!! just like on your video the first thing i see is a frayed wire... repair and done thanks!!!!!!
This happened to me on my 1995 Chevy Astro's power lock circuit... the Front passenger button went dead... what do you know, a wire broke in the robber link hose... Must be a common fault with vehicles...
Another great video. I like the electrical videos a lot. Question: if the rear passenger window switch (RPWS) was getting constant battery voltage at pin 3, as the diagram suggests, wouldn’t the rear passenger window (RPW) go up when pressing Up at the RPWS even with the open in the yellow/black wire? I ask because in the video the RPW didn’t go up from the RPWS. So either the diagram is wrong or the window lock-out button in the drivers door switch was down (killing voltage to pin 3 on the RPWS) or the red/light blue wire is broken (too) or I’m missing something. Thanks a lot for all the great videos. I look forward to seeing more.
The yellow/black wire which had the open only goes between the drivers window switch (DWS) the rear passenger window switch (RPWS). There are no other yellow/black wires in the circuit per the diagrams. So the open in that wire is in-between the DWS and the RPWS (as shown in the diagram and the repair). The red/black wire between the DWS & RPWS is providing ground to pin 1 at the RPWS. So if pin 3 has constant battery voltage through the red/light blue wire from the DWS via the window lock-out switch, then pressing the up button in the RPWS should make the rear passenger window go up.
ebu touy I don’t follow your comment. The video shows the rear passenger window not working from the drivers switch. Big yellow text with a red background right after he tests the drivers door switch states as such too around 1:53.
The window was already up so making it go up is futile and unnoticeable. Had he retested after putting the window down (when testing the motor) everyone would have seen the up direction being fully functional.
You can build your own from some wire & alligator clips available at most electronics stores (e.g. RadioShack). The magnetic kind he uses is cool and available on realfixesrealfasts web site as described in the video.
I have this problem on my driver side door in my 2002 Explorer. It will function all the other doors, but not the driver side window itself. The auto lock button on the driver side door also stopped working a few months before. Do you think the 2 could be interrelated?
It looks to me in the master switch diagram, anytime you push a button for the pass. front, pass. rear, or driver rear you're going to blow a fuse. Am I missing something?
The diagram is the circuit at rest. By pressing the switch, you are changing the circuit to remove ground from one side of the motor and replace it with power, while keeping the other side of the motor grounded. The motor is the load so the fuse will not blow. Hope that helps...
why won't my windows go up or down on my 2004 Explorer but it will go up and down once I put the key in the mission and turn it but I don't have to start it then it'll go up and down
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~ Thanx so much, one of my neighbors was having a problem with his front right window not working. This is certainly a time & money saver, no haggles work around.
I’m glad I found this. My wife has been dealing without her passenger window going down and I had done everything I could think of. Did not think of a broken wire but there it was once I pulled the driver door wire boot back. Any problems in the future that’s the first place I’ll look. Thanks. All you firefighters out there stay safe. Jeff from Freeland
Meticulous attention to Detail is Fabulous! by the way, Knuckle scrapers make the World go Round.
Same problem on my 2000 Excursion. Same yellow w/ black stripe wire broke, as in this video. 1.5 hr from start to finish on fixing this. Saved $150 that the shop would have charged to fix. Thanks for the video.
Great video! Pushing the boot into the door was the ticket. Thanks!
Excellent troubleshooting information. I was able to fix my broken power window wire - thanks to you!!
glad it helped, thanks for commenting
Very informative and methodical. Excellent video-keep up the great work.
Love the magnetic 3rd hand. Great tool. Great repair. Great video as always.
2004 explorer passenger window fixed with your video. Driver's door wire was the issue. Thanks for saving me the time, money & trouble.
2003 my driver window was intermittent working then it stopped working completely with window in up position
This video has helped me find the answer to why all four of my windows don't work on my Ford Explorer. I found one broken wire.
this is a great video. Way to go. You logically tested the various possible causes for failure and explained it well. Thanks!
Thank you!
Where can i snag those alligator clips for soldering? Tried web site to no avail. I dont even have one and can tell those things are life changing.
Thanks for this video it saved me a lot of time on a customers vehicle, it had a wire broke on the LR door jam too. I fixed it it no time and saved my customer a ton of money and that makes for return customers thanks again!
Excellent video. Helped me figure out it was the switch on my rear passenger door.❤
Thank you for the info on the broken wire issue. My 2005 Explorer's problem with the passenger power window was a broken wire just inside the driver's door. Your video saved me gobs of time ... Thanks again!
Great video. Thanks a bunch as I wasn't sure how to get the rubber sleeve out to get access. I would like to mention one thing I figured out in the past by breaking mine. Before you remove the switches you should remove the panel behind the door handle. It is also clips and you can just pry out right behind the speaker grill. On the switch there is a little plastic clip that helps hold the switch down. It clips onto the door handle panel at the front. Again, great video!!
Excellent description of how to do a competent repair. Thank you.
It sounds like to me Zach deserves a pay raise, outstanding performance my fellow techs. Being accurate and thorough is the key to diagnoses. This is just ONE way of diagnosing this complaint. Isolating those wires one at a time and either applying a ground or power to one end with a test light attached to the other end would have shown the same results. The test light, would not have illuminated, indicating an open(infinite resistance) in that wire. There are so many variables, but that is what keeps us on our feet. Good Job.
There are definitely faster ways to do the diagnostics but they aren't as intuitive and easy to follow as this procedure.
Also wise to check all the other wires around the the broken wire area. Since one wire broken, may be the case that other wires show signs of failure (e.g. insulation broken, wire looks flat with bare wiring seen, chafing evident etc.....) especially at a pivot point or hinge.
Excellent video, keep up the good work.
Thanks for helping me fix my window issue well done.
This video provided everything I needed to repair my window. Great video!
Be careful using continuity buzzer it can still sound at 100 ohms.
Also you can have good resistance but can still have a large voltage drop in the wire.
It is a good test just to prove if you have a complete circuit or a open.
Thanks for tips, they did the trick and my passenger side window is now fixed
Really appreciate ya'll making this video. 👍
thanks for all your videos still learning the wire diagram
Excellent from diagnostics to repair. Wish I had one of those magnetic clips. Those are awesome
Excellent troubleshooting. Better than just being a part-replacer
Awesome, real teaching. THANK YOUUU!!!
I ask because if the rear passenger window switch (RPWS) had constant battery voltage at pin 3 and the rear passenger window (RPW) did go up from the RPWS, doing a voltage drop test across pin 3 & 6 of the RPWS while pressing the RPWS down button would produce a zero volt reading. If you wiggle the meter leads at that time you would get a ghost voltage reading (if auto-ranging is enabled on the meter, otherwise set the meter to mV) indicating a open in the circuit which could only come from the yellow/black wire with that circuit. So two quick voltage tests and you know there is a open in the yellow/black wire without having to take anything apart and saving a ton of time/effort. Or am I missing something? Thanks a lot...
Strange that one wire would fail among a 15-20 wires. Had to have been heavily damaged somehow during manufacture.
Nice video and good smooth delivery.
an easy first check is to activate all the window controls and look for the overhead light to dim. this will show if power is being sent to the window motor or not. if the light dims the power is good and the motor is drawing current dimming the light some, if not there is no power going to the window motor or the motor is not working.
Thanks Kevin for your input. It's these simple things that we don't often think of that can save us time.
T
hanks Kevin!
So, I tried this. My lights dim when I use the controls for the window that won't go down. Does this mean that the motor is drawing the power, but just not working? I already looked for a broken wire, and didn't find one.
very good point I got to go try that
lolz, I would have never verified that the switch is good with the front right. I would have just bought another switch and rage quit when it didn't work. Luckily I don't fix cars for a living, only a hobby.
Nice vid, much appreciated!
Very nice video on troubleshooting power window problems along with wiring diagrams. I have some questions as well as suggestions. 1st, when doing continuity test...do all the connectors just simply pull and unplug from the switches? Even on older 98 model Explorers and/or Mountaineers? 2nd, that's a lot of trouble to have to unplug the right rear switch to test on the front passenger window (you would have to pull off yet another door panel). Instead of doing a continuity test from driver master switch to the right rear window connector (Red/Blk to Red/Blk, Yellow-Blk to Yellow-Blk), you could've used a test light back probing the Red/Blk at the master switch while toggling (Up or Down), then back probe at the Red/Blk on the Right Rear switch. You could do this with the Yellow/Blk as well. If there is continuity between the master and rear switch, the test light will behave the same. Note, there is the input to the right rear switch on pins 1 & 6 and there is the corresponding output on pins 2 & 5 going to the motor. 3rd, I would not have soldered that cable in and then test if the window worked. I would had twisted it together, test the window, and if works than solder them. Nice video though! I'm now faced with a situation whereby the motor is dead, but I need to roll up the window for now until i can fix it.
man I like that magnetic clamp you use for soldering
In my 2002 Explorer, when I try to raise the window, I hear a fast tic, tic, tic, tic, tic. so I know there is power going to the switch and motor. So could the problem be with the motor, gears and such? or could it be that the glass came off of the track or whatever holds the glass. BTW, I am able to raise and lower the glass manually by grabbing a hold of the of the glass with my hands and moving it up or down.
Man you got some cool tools my Freind , excellent video .
Now that was motherfcka professional work right there 👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿✊🏿✊🏿✊🏿
That's the problem im having with my front passenger window it sometimes go up and down when my car starts 😅
thank you!!! ive had to put a bag over my window for the past month and couldnt figure out the problem . yup broken wire! thank u
Very well done video many thanks for sharing. . To test a window switch another way would to simply use an OHM meter and activate the switch up and down.
Great and Informative video. Thank you.
I use tinning flux on the wire so it absorbs the solder quicker
Love those magnetic alligator clips. Brand name please & where to buy?
Good vid. Just one question because from what i've learned is that you shouldn't solder between the door jamb because over time the solder will just break apart again. Would the correct method be to replace with a new length of wire between the door and inside under the dash and soldier in those two locations instead because the new wire would not have a break in it. THanks
Saved my booty yo! Thank you I was able to repair my broke wire with minimal difficulty
I like that technique to test the motor directly first.
Great video. Since the red/white wire was OK, wouldn't that allow the window to work in one direction?
Where does the red and black at the drivers' side go-to for power? Does that have a fuse or relay for the power draw?
good video, not sure why you tested continuity from the master switch to the window instead of testing power from the master switch & door switch to the window motor connector.
That's a wise tip, to go to the door that is used most.
the only reason he checked that right front door is because power has to go to the master switch first according to the wiring schematic other cars could be controlled differently. a voltage drop could of save less time about 50%. continuity or resistance is not too precise since a few strands of wire could show continuity and resistance but with a voltage drop test you could see the voltage lost at the system meaning corrosion or not a good connection
very nice job ....just fixed one 02 ford explorer.
As everyone said, it was an extremely informative video. Thanks. My problem is a little different from that in the video, and hoped you might be able to answer a question for me. I have an extended cab, so it has only two operating windows. I had been having problems with the switch for the driver's window, and all the sudden both windows stopped working. Neither switch on the driver's door will operate either window, and the switch on the passenger's window does not work either. No blown fuses, and I exchanged the relays. If the switch on the driver's door goes bad, is it possible for it to prevent the switch on the passenger's door to stop working?
excellent video I learn a lot thank you and GODBLESS
Thanks great info on handy tools
Excellent thank you guys
A continuity check will only show opens, but will not test for high resistance....oops, Zach let one slip. I only caught this a month too late. Killer2600, you are correct.
Happy new year.Great job and thumb up.
Just curious.. did u try to roll the rr window up using the rr switch?
Good troubleshooting, But a little too much. I would use my meter to check the switches. Check voltage at the motor. Then I know it is an open. Good repair.
wish more techs would at least match the big colour on the wire for the next tech that has to track these down in the future. but great diagnostic work
Would this be the same kind of solution for a Ford Sport Trac 2003?
Bet you had a lot of fun putting that rubber boot back in between the door and the post. =0)
What kind of wire did you use to splice.
I always wondered how a person can fix a wire in a straight line (as you did with solder and heat shrink).
What brand are those wire strippers?
I have a 03 sportrac and my left rear window goes down but it wont go up. And on my master switch the door lock and mirrors dont work.. i dont know if all of this is connected. What do i need to do to find the problem...
On my 2003 Explorer I got a short on all the windows and the radio went out to the fuses looked good got any ideas
How did you get the drivers side view mirror connection unplugged. I cant seem to disconnect the plug.
I would like to do a wire repair outside pivot point, as solder joint is hard and it will stress remaining wire and this problem will reappear.
Great video man! very informative!
I have a 2002 ford explorer and I watched ur video and found 4 broken wires but the windoe still doesn't go up and down what else could I do the motor is good so is the switch and still nothing getting to the motor
You said your DVM won't check for high resistance on continuity test, that's correct, because you won't get a very high resistance on those wires anyways.... a 200ohms scale is plenty to check for resistance on those wires, unless their a mile long. And, on most DVM's you could still get the beep on continuity even at 30 ohms, maybe even more... ? outside of that you just have to watch the meter for a reading. So I doubt very seriously if you need more than a 200 ohms scale to get an accurate resistance reading on any wire in a vehicle, it takes a very fine and or long copper wire to jump off a 200 ohms scale.
You the best 👌
I think this my problem on 03 explorer thanks a lot kid
Great video, but a continuity test can fail you if that wire had just a few broken strands of wire. After confirming the motor and with koeo unplugging the connector at the motor back probing the connector side and load testing with a LoadPro while pressing the door or master switch up or down would have identified what side was open or had high resistance. A continuity test can fail you, a voltage load drop never will, plus its quicker too...
Yeah, continuity tests can be very very misleading. They are only accurate at indicating an open in a circuit. A voltage drop test is much more accurate & useful. While a LoadPro is a cool tool, it is a little overkill here (no disrespect to Daniel Sullivan). A simple voltage drop test across pin 3 & 6 of the rear passenger window switch while pressing the down button would produce a reading of zero volts (loading the circuit with the LoadPro would also produce a zero volt reading because there is no current flow due to the open in the circuit, btw). If you wiggle the meter leads at that time (with the LoadPro or not) you would get a ghost voltage reading (if auto-ranging is enabled on the meter, otherwise set the meter to mV) indicating a open in the circuit which could only come from the yellow/black wire with this circuit.
Job Well Done! Thank you so much👌
that was a fancy splice
If it isn't the fuse it could be a broken wire. On my car the window would work randomly. If it works sometimes common sense should tell you it isn't the fuse. Try this first, the accordion looking plastic you see when you open your door is supposed to protect the wire. When you open and close the door, overtime the wires can become kinked or broken. Try squeezing or manipulating (not too aggressively) the "accordion" while holding the switch to see if it moves. If it does the wire can be located and repaired with a butt connection. If the window still doesn't work when you try this it could be a motor or something else..I saved $300 by fixing the wire on the door. Thanks
nice repair.
Terrific ~ Thanks!
Hello, This video was very helpful to me in many ways. My problem is different, on my 2003 explorer V8 EB loaded. All of a sudden my windows wont work unless I have the DRIVERS door open. when I shut the door none of the windows will work from any of the doors switched, when I open the drivers door all of the windows work from each door including the master drivers controls. Any ideas ???
+johnsshelbygt I had the same issue. Basically the same issue as this just my broken wire in the drivers door was a 12 gauge black wire. I also found 2 others that the coating had broken free.
omg... i changed the regulator in front passenger and it still didn't work.... i was lost... watched your video and didn't have volt checker so i just went for the door jamb and the wire bundle and bingo!!!!! just like on your video the first thing i see is a frayed wire... repair and done thanks!!!!!!
so 2003 ford explorer problem - front driver window works however the other 3 do not . Can this be the switch?
This happened to me on my 1995 Chevy Astro's power lock circuit... the Front passenger button went dead... what do you know, a wire broke in the robber link hose... Must be a common fault with vehicles...
Another great video. I like the electrical videos a lot. Question: if the rear passenger window switch (RPWS) was getting constant battery voltage at pin 3, as the diagram suggests, wouldn’t the rear passenger window (RPW) go up when pressing Up at the RPWS even with the open in the yellow/black wire? I ask because in the video the RPW didn’t go up from the RPWS. So either the diagram is wrong or the window lock-out button in the drivers door switch was down (killing voltage to pin 3 on the RPWS) or the red/light blue wire is broken (too) or I’m missing something. Thanks a lot for all the great videos. I look forward to seeing more.
The open was before both switches. So neither would work.
The yellow/black wire which had the open only goes between the drivers window switch (DWS) the rear passenger window switch (RPWS). There are no other yellow/black wires in the circuit per the diagrams. So the open in that wire is in-between the DWS and the RPWS (as shown in the diagram and the repair). The red/black wire between the DWS & RPWS is providing ground to pin 1 at the RPWS. So if pin 3 has constant battery voltage through the red/light blue wire from the DWS via the window lock-out switch, then pressing the up button in the RPWS should make the rear passenger window go up.
if the driver master switch doesn't have any power or ground neither any switch will work.. all 3 PWS works with master switch
ebu touy I don’t follow your comment. The video shows the rear passenger window not working from the drivers switch. Big yellow text with a red background right after he tests the drivers door switch states as such too around 1:53.
The window was already up so making it go up is futile and unnoticeable. Had he retested after putting the window down (when testing the motor) everyone would have seen the up direction being fully functional.
So we leave the solder joint in the area where the wire bends....Not good!
Question where do I buy the little clamps to hold wires
You can build your own from some wire & alligator clips available at most electronics stores (e.g. RadioShack). The magnetic kind he uses is cool and available on realfixesrealfasts web site as described in the video.
I have this problem on my driver side door in my 2002 Explorer. It will function all the other doors, but not the driver side window itself. The auto lock button on the driver side door also stopped working a few months before. Do you think the 2 could be interrelated?
My 03 driver window was intermittent now ha stopped working completely, in the up position.
I mean, with ground applied to both sides of the motors at all times, as soon as you apply voltage to either side it should short to ground.
master nice work thanks.
It looks to me in the master switch diagram, anytime you push a button for the pass. front, pass. rear, or driver rear you're going to blow a fuse. Am I missing something?
The diagram is the circuit at rest. By pressing the switch, you are changing the circuit to remove ground from one side of the motor and replace it with power, while keeping the other side of the motor grounded. The motor is the load so the fuse will not blow. Hope that helps...
Job well done.
why won't my windows go up or down on my 2004 Explorer but it will go up and down once I put the key in the mission and turn it but I don't have to start it then it'll go up and down
Thanks but my window makes a sound as if trying to roll up on the R front window. But it will not roll up
most power windows use either a plastic track or gears. It sounds like youts have stripped out.
THANKS 4 THE TIP GUY
Nice video ... Thank You ..
❤ thank 😊
Great video!!
My problem is similar except that my passenger window will go down but not up. What could that be?
most likely a broken wire either in the drivers side harness
@@realfixesrealfast thanks
with my 96 Ford explorer I can hear the moter kick with master and other switch but won't go down
where is the fuse box for the windows
Good video