2004-2008 Ford Power Window Repair
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- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2024
- Has your power window fallen down? How to repair, not replace broken cable bosses on the guides on a 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 or 2008 Ford F-150, Explorer or Expedition electric power window regulator for about 50 Cents. This fix should work on most regulators that have cables that handle the window lifting including: Lincoln, isuzu, Nissan, suburban, tahoe, excalade, yukon, silverado, mercedes, audi, GM, chrysler, BMW
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Thanks. I needed to replace my right side mirror and I would have broken my door panel if I hadn't stopped to search for this video. This video saved me time and money.
colonelward1 Yeah, those little speaker clips are a hidden treasure.
I came across this window after my window fell down this afternoon. I ended up replacing the whole regulator but this video was very helpful. I'm not mechanically inclined so I don't think I would have been able to replace the part without this video. Thanks!
+rutscreamer Thanks! That's why I make these vids. Just trying to pass on what I learn.
From one Greg to another, thank you! You saved me time and money for sure. I had to buy a new regulator assembly but no doubt it was a huge savings to install it myself. A big thank you for posting!
I could never do this without freaking out but I enjoyed watching you fix it. Good job!
The rear window on my 2004 F-150 mysteriously fell today. I watched your video and found exactly what you had described as well as the cable mis routed on the spool. (no doubtedly from attempting to raise and lower the window as if it would magically fix itself...LOL) I dis-assembled as you described, repaired the plastic piece with a small metal one and had it back in operation in a matter of an hour or two. A huge THANKS for showing us the way. Thanks very much for taking the time to do this for the general public. U DA MAN!
Hey man... Any time I can help someone else get one over on "the man" I do my best to help out. I'm glad it worked out for you.
I thought your video was full of VERY helpful tips. So you're not a videographer...who cares. Your tips helped me get the fix done quickly without any hiccups. Thank you!
Yep. You nailed it Tom. These same guides are made for a number of manufacturers. They obviously make a lot of money selling craptacular parts.
Many, many thanks, Greg. Saved lots of money and now I know how to fix the next one that breaks. Those speaker screws are probably 5.5 mm - a 7/32" SAE is only two thousands oversize to 5.5 mm. I had a lot more trouble tensioning the cable while reassembling than you did and finally had to use a clamp arrangement to pull enough tension to get it all back in place.
Corey- I'm always happy when one of "us" figures out a solution like that. I know the motor companies are nickle and diming these cars to death and they want us to visit the repair shop every month, but like you said... The engineers are smarter than that. It feels good to make something "better than factory original."
You saved me $400. Thanks. Mine was broke more than just the cable coming loose, but I was able to patch it together enough to get the window up and functional.
You had it man!! Thanks so much!! Got home from work at 12am and got finish with it by 3am. thanks so much for this video, I was able to do it at night with a little lights! Life Saver!!!
Hey man, glad to hear it!
Thanks, Greg! Just fixed mine using your instructions and it works great! Instead of using the bent metal, I used a small machine screw between the crimped end of the cable and the plastic opening so the screw head holds the crimp from rolling out of U shaped cable notch and put a nut and flat washer on the back side. That cheap plastic block has a pretty substantial metal base inside if you can keep the cable end from rolling out. Thanks Again!
Thanks for the props man. I try to pass on the little tricks I learn while trying to keep a few extra bucks in my pocket. This fix will work for TONS of vehicles. I'm hoping it helps some dudes out.
No problem Gary. There is a LOT of pressure on the the cables, that's for sure. Glad you got it fixed. Kinda feels good to get one over on the parts man.
appreciate the vid dude . over the last couple years i fell on my head couple times an bought a couple fords. only problem is one is 50 years old and the other is 83 years and i haven`t encountered this dilemma . although i will admit i`ve replaced couple window regulators in my 2000 silverado.they all have silly little engineering quirks, love your vids man!
Thanks Greg , you the man!!! ran across this while looking at replacement vids. Repaired mine, works fine... don't know for how long but right now happy happy happy!!
I think I did this vid 3-4 years ago... Still going strong.
Thanks for taking time to make the video...it helped!
Great video! This definitely gave me the confidence to try to fix it myself. I had the same failure point - I'm sure everyone does. I used a soldering iron to reshape and reinforce all of the plastic connections. It works really well, but do it in a well-ventilated area. I also used a method like yours for the cable reinforcement.
Ever hear of a light? I can't see a damn thing you're doing.
Thanks Jeff. I've used it a few times and it seems to work well.
Damn, sounds like a nice video! Sure wish i could see it.
Gracias por compartir tus conocimientos y dar tu tiempo. Es un video excelente, voy a reparar mi ventana. Muchas gracias.
Nice fix with the cable repair and money saved.Most the other vids on power window problems have been switches and power fails. Yours was exactly like mine. Went to wind the window up and it suddenly dropped. Had the door trims off but couldnt figure the problem. Will take it off again tomorrow and remove the whole mechanism. I do have a spare EL ford and have already removed the mechanism but i am sure i am going to find that it is the same broken cable due to plastic failure.
Well done sir! You saved me billions and billions of dollars
Thanks for the video. Unfortunately my cable was broke so I had to buy a replacement. Thanks again for posting and giving this not so handy person a clue on how to replace the regulator.
No worries. I'm glad it at least gave you a look inside the replacement job.
Great fix Greg!
Greg, thanks for this video! Cost $0. On my 2009 Ford Escape a different stupid plastic design. Instead of cables coming in at an angle they come near each other along same line. I had to do it differently - inspired by your method. I pushed a loop of solid steel wire (not cable) through hole from back side, then around the existing cable, then secured it where it wouldn't interfere. IMHO the engineers could have made a steel bracket connect cable ends to each other, reducing strain!
No problem. Thanks for checking it out.
I'm glad you were able to figure out a fix. Hell, that sounds better than what I've been doing. You are right about the metal base... Why didn't Ford (or their supplier) just run the wire through that???
Thank you for your help Greg, really appreciated!
thanks so much greg for looking into this for me--your a great guy
Thanks bub,you made my day a whole lot better...oh yeah that’s a nut driver or a spin tight,that’s what we all ways have called them. Thanks again!
LOL. I've never thought about it that way. I guess I think of it like this... If you start with a junk part, you might as well try something to fix it. If it fails, your part is still junk. If it's successful, you've saved a ton of dough!!! Thanks for checking it out.
Thanks this really help me keep doing what you do good job. Now I can fix my window.
Thank you very much! I will fix mine as soon as I get home today
Thats a pretty sweet truck Greg. Thanks for the vid.
9 years later still helping ty
👊👊👊
Good video. Big help to me although I found the lift device trashed and will wind up replacing the unit. One thing that might help. It's not necessary to remove all four of the speaker clips - only the bottom two. I put a pair of fat needle nose in it, squeezed gently and rocked it back and forth. Came out easily. Thanks Greg.
Great how to video Greg!
Nice fix, unfortunately the cable on mine was badly frayed so I needed to do a full replace. I ended up watching the whole thing anyway. Useful fix. Thank you. The window regulator without motor runs 25 bucks on ebay, and 125 at the local auto zone. Someone is making BIG BUCKS on that part.
Thank you Greg!!! Now I have to find a good and reliable mechanic in my 78130 area to take my truck to. If I were 15 years younger...
Great help! Thanks for sharing.
hey man Thank you. great fix man. side tip. some quick setting epoxy would work great to help keep it in there.
Thanks, the video was very helpful
Thanks for the great video. Very professional.
Thanks man! I wish I had taken more time with this one but it was def a rush job.
I also try not to add too much fluff to mine. Just the important stuff and keep it short.
Agreed... I'm getting better at not rambling... It's hard for me to keep the old yapper shut.
Great video. Thank you so much
Thanks a lot for help I will try this tomorrow. An great jog for ignoring the ungrateful idiots.
You must like working in the dark. Good info, even if I had to imagine I saw most of it.
+Raymond Broderick Yeah... That was a "must fix now" situation... Didn't have time to set up lights. I usually do a lot better job of documenting. Hope you got the info you need.
😁
I was thinking the same thing. Too dark!
Thanks Mr. Roach. You are right... All the "NEW" cars I've owned have had their little problems... I'd much rather fix power windows than overhaul engines. I like socket stick!
Giving this a shot! Thank you!
It happened today. Just saw the video but have no clue how to do this but I'm glad somebody can.
Great video. Thanks.
I have no intention of replacing the rivets Greg. I intend to use a metal tek screw before a rivet. Just did a video myself and at the worst part of the day because i feed wild parrots at around 4.00 pm and they were all getting in on the act lol. But driving the remainder of the steel pop rivet out makes the drilling easy.
Will tag my video on to this as i think it might help others.
Thanks for making the video and your great tips. My 15-year-old Dodge Dakota has a similar plastic anchor that broke and I have a few tips that might help someone:
(1) To release tension on the cable so I can anchor it easier, on the opposite end of the long regulator bracket that has the roller, my unit has a half round plastic roller guide where I popped the cable out of the track. Once I get the loose cable end anchored, I will work the cable back over this guide. Compressing the spring where the cable enters the motor drum assemble will release some of the tension on the cable. It may help to use a hook tool when pulling the cable back over the plastic guide. I also took a small 12-volt battery and momentarily attached it to the motor with alligator clips, while pulling on the loose end of the cable. This allowed me to position the unattched/broken end of the cable about half way up the regulator guide, where I could work on it easier.
(2) On another window, I learned the hard way: in order to prevent a chewed up rat's nest of damaged cable, when the cable anchor breaks, DO NOT try to operate that window motor switch any more at that point. If you forget and operate the window switch, then without tension the cable can become a jumbled mess as the drum it was wound around and the worm gear chews it up. As a reminder to not operate the switch, I placed some black electrical tape over the switch, as it leaves less residue than most other tapes.
(3) I once held up a window with duct tape, and removing the sticky residue was a tough job, even when using WD-40. Instead, I now use a heavy duty suction cup to hold up the window, about 5 inches or larger, and of course applied to the inside bottom of the window. The suction cups are used for automotive body and glass work and can be found in most parts stores or Harbor Freight. Make sure you clean the window and wet the rubber pad, which should allow it to hold for up to several months. When my window regulator failed, I was away from home and it was about to rain. I didn't have time to take the door panel off to pull the window up. Fortunately, I was able to wrap enough electrical tape around the end of a pair of long nose pliers to protect the glass, grab the edge of the window and pull it up enough where I could grab it with my hands, and apply the suction cup. From Sam Selph, S. Ga.
would have liked to see you get the glass up but a great start. Ive got none technical skills but I am gonna figure this out. Thanks for posting!
Push or pull it up. When its disconnected, its free to move. If you have a tangle of wire because something broke, sometimes you have to get everything untangled, and then get the glass out of the way. Its been a bit since I've done this to a Ford, but they are all about the same.
Awesome video! I just traded my 98 Ford Ranger regular cab for a 2006 Ford F150 Fx4 4x4 and the window is down inside the door. Going to try this fix tomorrow!
... and in the mean time, DON'T LET YOUR HOT DOG STAND! =)
I just took my GF Escape door apart and was a bit stumped! Thanks for the video I'll let you know how I make out! Cheers
Thanks John.
my son truck need this except his cable broke. $90 for the complete part.... 2 hours later works like a champ. thanks for some info on how to open up door panel etc.... Thanks
Agreed. Those rivets are a pain, both to drill and replace.
Yeah... I have them all in one set with my wrenches, but it just blows my mind how many times I have to go back and forth. Maybe I should get one of those late night infomerchial one size fits all sockets???
Agreed. Didn't have time for a proper set up. Repair had to be done within the time I did it... Tight schedule.
Thanks for the info .
LOL. Glad you found a good usable bungee!
Thanks Scott.
Thanx for the vid i watched it 3 yrs ago when my passengers window broke,,,i wound it backward ,,up is down down is up lmao,,, but it works great savings ,, now im watching again for a refresher cause my fukin driverside just dropped lol 300 bucks is better in my pocket ,,the tin metal trick works great thanx again
I'm Sorry....But I have to say after my fair share of NEWER Ford & Chevy trucks, Ford as got to be the most backward & goofy engineered hunk of metal that Ive ever owned....by the way, the socket stick as you call it is called a SOCKET NUT DRIVER..... Nice video, thanks for sharing and I'm sorry you had to spend any time at all fixing something that should have never broken in the first place!....always fun to watch your videos!
Hello this video is pretty good it helped me fet thru most of it. My wire is all ground up so my question to you is....i know where the wire goes in the motor where does the other end attach to? Is it one whole wire or two and can i just buy the wire?
Thanks Jerry.
Very helpful thank you
Not in my case. 06 f150 xlt supercab. Both plastic trucks cracked and broke off the tracks. $80 later ( 2022 ) for the whole assembly. It's supposed to snow tomorrow so I'm glad it's all buttoned up
Currently working on two windows, front passenger and Back driver. yes my F150 has dropped a total of 4 windows in my 130K miles. You video was great, and I would not have tried it without your help. I may have a suggesting to make it a bit, easier than sheet metal. Will let you know how it works.
Yes, it worked, I used a steel nail in the same way you did, on two windows today. Saved $300+ dollars. Thank you! Each Plastic thingy was broken in the exact same way, I can't believe Ford is still replacing it with the same part.
CJ Daniel Hell yeah! There you go. A nail will make it a BUNCH easier to do. It isn't just ford, ALL the manufacturers are using junk like this. Ford windows are just bigger than what the regulator can take, so they break. I'm glad it worked for you man!
Nice DIY. thanks
My 06 F-150 passenger window wouldn't roll back up today. It's not a power window. We took the door stuff off, and saw the regulator. Looks like exactly what you described. I remember seeing the cable that was loose. Unfortunately, I won't have time this week to fix it. Luckily I live in Arizona where it won't get too cold. Right now got window 3/4 of the way back up, but it won't go ALL the way. I think there's something stuck. I got it duct taped to hold it up, and some plastic covering the rest of the way because in the mornings, it IS chilly for us Az folks even though it's only in the 40s
Will try this weekend what you did. Thanks
Good luck with the repair... Sounds like a typical fix.
I need a flashlight to watch this
Lol....right
LOL. This little issue has affected tons of people. I looked online to see how many other car builders use the same system and was amazed at the list. American cars (Ford AND GM), Japanese cars, German cars... They all use the same design. Sorta blew my mind. I thought it was Ford only.
Thanks Darrin.
Ok. just watched your video and am headed outside to fix my window that just broke. Heard a "snap" and the window went down. Fingers crossed. Will get back with the result. Thanks again for the video..
Thanks for contacting Yep. probably the exact some scenario. Good luck.
Done. I couldn't find any sheet metal, so I used wire. Wrapped the little crimped end and around the plastic. Worked great. Hardest part for sure was understanding the way the cables are wrapped around the motor and getting it attached again, but I got it. Up and running again. Thanks.
Perfect!
I have the same problem long time ago. Some time later it would come back normal again. And as such happened quite often. Recently it is even serious. I've been searching the solution, but not quite fit to solve it exactly right or simple.
This is my suggestion: If you don't find any wire problem, or any worn out mechanic problem, just go to take out the internal panel by unscrewing 5 screws off. Then directly disassemble the motor with three screws off. Take out the center part of the motor, and clean it and the shell of the motor inside out. You may put a little grease on the bottom and top portion of the center part (coil). Then put them all back. Make sure you have balance every single step including small gasket, and use a short and slim Philip screw drive, you may finish the job no more than half to one hour. Don't be fooled to take all regulator off and exchange with new one. It cost 50 or more. If you take away the small gasket, I mean, don’t put it back, it even puts the whole things easier and simple without noise or function problem.
*If you have only small 7mm (or 8mm) small and short socket, you can use a long flat screw driver insert into it to take out 2 screws under the window handle.
Normal step: take off the internal panel of window.
1. Check the fuse . If it was cut or burned, replace it.
2. Check if the wire disconnected in between window and fuse box or switch is bad (w/ V meter). Connect it back, or replace a new one.
3. Directly unscrew the motor, clean inside out. Grease top and bottom of the center coil.Then put it back. If you can tape or add silicon to seal the gap of motor and gear, Even better. It may avoid moisture into motor. Make sure when you put it back the center coil first, insert into the hole, then turn clockwise a few times till it turns smoothly.
4. Check if the whole screws or rivets loose, or regulator stuck. Replace it if needed.
5. Clean and lubricate the edge of window glass, if needed.
Most of the time, you just need to proceed the 3rd one. Good luck!
Nice video, had someone steel my truck n break the driver window, after I had it replaced it would never work right then about two weeks later it sounded like something popped n the window fell. I hope that's all it is n don't have to buy a new regulator. I seen having to tape my window up for months now.
Good fix...
Thanks Milo.
I loved the video. What gauge and type of metal did you use for the repair. I have to do the same repair. Is there anything different on the rear door as compared to the front door.
awsome video!!
The parts book says they have a scissor type lift. I haven't torn one apart to find out
Great video Greg, thanks for taking me through the process. Everything was going smooth but I've got the cables all jacked up. They're no longer coiled properly and in fact they came undone, can you point me in the right direction or offer me any advice for getting the cable's coiling properly .
Oh man. They sort of split funny. I'd have to stare at it for awhile. I'd suggest that you take the door panel off your "good" door and watch the window go up and down. It will make sense. It coils onto one side and off of the other at the same time. The cable sits in the grooves and does not cross over at any point.
How did you lift the glass up ?
I have no power and glass is all the way down I can't loosen the clamps.
Thanks
Thanks man.
Would love to see what you are doing!
I have a 2005 F-150 and have taken everything apart and about ready to put back together. My question is on the motor does it matter which cable goes on the inside of the motor wheel
Quick question on this Greg. I loosened the four bolts but can't get the window up but only an inch or two. Did I miss something?
Thanks John. I like it. Just don't like having to repair it.
hey
greg--would a 2004 f-250 super duty have this set up as well??
I haven't had to rip the rear doors apart yet (knock on wood), but I suspect they are similar to the fronts. I used 20 ga steel sheet metal. You can use typical sheet or preprime. I wouldn't suggest aluminum.
one thing I noticed, seems the after market part breaks after a while. looks like repeated metal on metal contact causes this? maybe putting some white lithium grease on the tracks will help.
I hope so. Power to the people.
thanks for that i have two window go out in a week time im going to try this
nice job. my 05 ford focus is going on it's 5th window regulator with / motor DRIVE SIDE, only you good, ty,
thx Greg
good one man!